grease DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Manual PDF

(33) Remove tools and remove servo piston and
spring.
(34) Compress rear servo piston with C-clamp and
Tool C-4470, or Valve Spring Compressor C-3422-B
(Fig. 39). Compress servo spring retainer only
enough to permit snap-ring removal.
(35) Remove servo piston snap-ring (Fig. 39). Start
one end of ring out of bore. Then carefully work
removal tool around back of snap-ring until free of
ring groove.Exercise caution when removing
snap-ring. Servo bore can be scratched or
nicked if care is not exercised.
(36) Remove tools and remove rear servo retainer,
spring and piston assembly.
CLEANING
Clean the case in a solvent tank. Flush the case
bores and fluid passages thoroughly with solvent.
Dry the case and all fluid passages with compressed
air. Be sure all solvent is removed from the case and
that all fluid passages are clear.
NOTE: Do not use shop towels or rags to dry the
case (or any other transmission component) unless
they are made from lint-free materials. Lint will stick
to case surfaces and transmission components and
circulate throughout the transmission after assem-
bly. A sufficient quantity of lint can block fluid pas-
sages and interfere with valve body operation.
Lubricate transmission parts with MopartATF +4,
Automatic Transmission fluid, during overhaul and
assembly. Use petroleum jelly to prelubricate seals,
O-rings, and thrust washers. Petroleum jelly can also
be used to hold parts in place during reassembly.
INSPECTION
Inspect the case for cracks, porous spots, worn
bores, or damaged threads. Damaged threads can be
repaired with Helicoil thread inserts. However, the
case will have to be replaced if it exhibits any type of
damage or wear.
Lubricate the front band adjusting screw threads
with petroleum jelly and thread the screw part-way
into the case. Be sure the screw turns freely.
Inspect the transmission bushings during overhaul.
Bushing condition is important as worn, scored bush-
ings contribute to low pressures, clutch slip and
accelerated wear of other components. However, do
not replace bushings as a matter of course. Replace
bushings only when they are actually worn, or
scored.
The use of crocus cloth is permissible where neces-
sary, providing it is used carefully. When used on
shafts, or valves, use extreme care to avoid rounding
off sharp edges. Sharp edges are vital as they pre-
vent foreign matter from getting between the valve
and valve bore.
Do not reuse oil seals, gaskets, seal rings, or
O-rings during overhaul. Replace these parts as a
matter of course. Also do not reuse snap rings or
E-clips that are bent or distorted. Replace these parts
as well.
ASSEMBLY
Do not allow dirt, grease, or foreign material to
enter the case or transmission components during
assembly. Keep the transmission case and compo-
nents clean. Also make sure the tools and workbench
area used for reassembly operations are equally
clean.
Shop towels used for wiping off tools and your
hands must be made fromlint freematerials. Lint
will stick to transmission parts and could interfere
with valve operation or even restrict fluid passages.
Lubricate transmission clutch and gear compo-
nents with MopartATF +4 during reassembly. Soak
clutch discs in transmission fluid before installation.
Use petroleum jelly on piston seals and o-rings to
ease installation. Petroleum jelly can also be used to
lubricate and hold thrust washers and plates in posi-
tion during assembly.
Do not use chassis grease, bearing grease,
white grease, or similar lubricants on any part.
These types of lubricants can eventually block or
restrict fluid passages and valve operation. Use
petroleum jelly only.
Do not force parts into place. The transmission
components and sub-assemblies are easily installed
by hand when properly aligned. If a part seems dif-
ficult to install, it is either misaligned or incorrectly
Fig. 39 Rear Servo Retaining Snap-Ring
1 - TOOL C-4470
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - REAR SERVO SPRING RETAINER
4 - RETAINER SNAP-RING
21 - 166 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE (Continued)

(9) Install the two screws to hold the TRS to the
mounting bracket. Tighten the screws to 5 N´m (45
in.lbs.).
(10) Verify proper sensor operation (Fig. 62).
(11) Move the transmission manual shaft lever to
the PARK position.
(12) Install torque converter. Use C-clamp or metal
strap to hold converter in place for installation.
BAND ADJUSTMENT AND FINAL
(1) Adjust front and rear bands as follows:
(a) Loosen locknut on each band adjusting screw
4-5 turns.
(b) Tighten both adjusting screws to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.).
(c) Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4
turns.
(d) Back off rear band adjusting screw 3 turns.
(e) Hold each adjusting screw in position and
tighten locknut to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install magnet in oil pan. Magnet seats on
small protrusion at corner of pan.
(3) Position new oil pan gasket on case and install
oil pan. Tighten pan bolts to 13.6 N´m (125 in. lbs.).
(4) Install throttle valve and shift selector levers
on valve body manual lever shaft.
(5) Apply small quantity of dielectric grease to ter-
minal pins of solenoid case connector and neutral
switch.
(6) Fill transmission with recommended fluid.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check torque converter hub inner and outer
diameters and hub drive notches for sharp edgesburrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and notches
with 320/400 grit paper and crocus cloth if necessary.
The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump
seal at installation.
(2) Lubricate pocket in the rear oil pump seal lip
with transmission fluid.
(3) Lubricate converter pilot hub of the crankshaft
with a light coating of MopartHigh Temp Grease.
(4) Align and install converter in oil pump.
(5) Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then
rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with steel scale and
straightedge (Fig. 63). Surface of converter lugs
should be 19mm (0.75 in.) to rear of straightedge
when converter is fully seated.
(7) Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
(8) Position transmission on jack and secure it
with chains.
(9) Check condition of converter driveplate.
Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged.
Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated
in engine block and protrude far enough to
hold transmission in alignment.
(10) Raise transmission and align converter with
drive plate and converter housing with engine block.
(11) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower
or tilt transmission to align converter housing with
engine block dowels.
(12) Carefully work transmission forward and over
engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft.
Fig. 62 Transmission Range Sensor Operation
1 - NEUTRAL CONTACT
2 - MANUAL LEVER AND SENSOR PLUNGER IN REVERSE
POSITION
3 - PARK CONTACT
4 - TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR
Fig. 63 Checking Converter Seating - Typical
1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
21 - 174 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48RE (Continued)

(2) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not prop-
erly equipped for this type of operation. Trailer tow-
ing or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling sys-
tem, and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
²adding incorrect fluid
²failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when
checking level
²engine coolant entering the fluid
²internal failure that generates debris
²overheat that generates sludge (fluid break-
down)
²failure to replace contaminated converter after
repair
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdraw-
ing the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is gener-
ally caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The torque converter should also be replaced when-
ever a failure generates sludge and debris. This is
necessary because normal converter flushing proce-
dures will not remove all contaminants.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, thegeartrain churns up foam and cause the same condi-
tions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mis-
taken for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
Fluid level is checked with the engine running at
curb idle speed, the transmission in NEUTRAL and
the transmission fluid at normal operating tempera-
ture.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.
The transmission fluid level can be checked two
ways.
PROCEDURE ONE
(1) Transmission fluid must be at normal operat-
ing temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive
vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to
normal hot operating temperature of 82ÉC (180ÉF).
(2) Position vehicle on level surface.
(3) Start and run engine at curb idle speed.
(4) Apply parking brakes.
(5) Shift transmission momentarily into all gear
ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.
(6) Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep
dirt from entering tube.
(7) Remove dipstick (Fig. 87) and check fluid level
as follows:
(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.
(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow
mark.
(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.
(d) If fluid is low, add only enough MopartAT F
+4 to restore correct level. Do not overfill.
Fig. 87 Dipstick Fluid Level Marks - Typical
1 - DIPSTICK
2 - MAXIMUM CORRECT FLUID LEVEL
3 - ACCEPTABLE FLUID LEVEL
21 - 202 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 48REDR
FLUID AND FILTER (Continued)

o-ring is properly installed and is free of any debris.
The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump
seal at installation.
(2) If a replacement transmission is being
installed, transfer any components necessary, such as
the manual shift lever and shift cable bracket, from
the original transmission onto the replacement trans-
mission.
(3) Lubricate oil pump seal lip with transmission
fluid.
(4) Align converter and oil pump.(5) Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then
rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with steel scale and
straightedge (Fig. 53). Surface of converter lugs
should be at least 13mm (1/2 in.) to rear of straight-
edge when converter is fully seated.
(7) Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
(8) Position transmission on jack and secure it
with chains.
(9) Check condition of converter driveplate.
Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged.
Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated
in engine block and protrude far enough to
hold transmission in alignment.
(10) Apply a light coating of MopartHigh Temp
Grease to the torque converter hub pocket in the rear
pocket of the engine's crankshaft.
(11) Raise transmission (Fig. 54) and align the
torque converter with the drive plate and transmis-
sion converter housing with the engine block.
(12) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower
or tilt transmission to align the converter housing
with engine block dowels.
(13) Carefully work transmission forward and over
engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
crankshaft. Verify that no wires, or the transmission
vent hose, have become trapped between the engine
block and the transmission.
(14) Install two bolts to attach the transmission to
the engine.
(15) Install remaining torque converter housing to
engine bolts. Tighten to 68 N´m (50 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 51 Install Primary Oil and Cooler Filters
1 - PRIMARY OIL FILTER
2 - COOLER RETURN FILTER
3 - COOLER RETURN FILTER BYPASS VALVE
4 - VALVE BODY
Fig. 52 Install Input, Output, and Line Pressure
Sensors
1 - OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR
2 - LINE PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - INPUT SPEED SENSOR
Fig. 53 Checking Torque Converter Seating - Typical
1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
21 - 334 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 45RFE/545RFEDR
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 45RFE/545RFE (Continued)

FLUID AND FILTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EFFECTS OF
INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air
along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid
pressures to be low and develop slower than normal.
If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the
fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing
the same conditions occurring with a low level. In
either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxi-
dation and varnish buildup which interferes with
valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid
expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the
transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can eas-
ily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CAUSES OF
BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating
which has three primary causes.
(1) Internal clutch slippage, usually caused by low
line pressure, inadequate clutch apply pressure, or
clutch seal failure.
(2) A result of restricted fluid flow through the
main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usu-
ally the result of a faulty or improperly installed
drainback valve, a damaged main cooler, or severe
restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris
or kinked lines.
(3) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not prop-
erly equipped for this type of operation. Trailer tow-
ing or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling sys-
tem, and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
²adding incorrect fluid
²failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when
checking level
²engine coolant entering the fluid
²internal failure that generates debris
²overheat that generates sludge (fluid break-
down)
²failure to replace contaminated converter after
repairThe use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdraw-
ing the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is gener-
ally caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The torque converter should also be replaced when-
ever a failure generates sludge and debris. This is
necessary because normal converter flushing proce-
dures will not remove all contaminants.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same condi-
tions which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mis-
taken for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
The torque converter fills in both the P (PARK)
and N (NEUTRAL) positions. Place the selector lever
in P (PARK) to be sure that the fluid level check is
accurate.The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.At normal operating temperature
(approximately 82 C. or 180 F.), the fluid level is cor-
rect if it is in the HOT region (cross-hatched area) on
the oil level indicator. The fluid level will be approx-
21 - 366 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 45RFE/545RFEDR

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
REPLACEMENT
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
chrome plated wheels.
Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
of wheel nuts (Fig. 21). This could affect the safety
and handling of your vehicle.
To install the wheel, first position it properly on
the mounting surface (Fig. 21). All wheel nuts should
then be tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them
in sequence to the proper torque specification, (Fig.
22) (Fig. 23).Never use oil or grease on studs or
nuts.
Wheels must be replaced if they have:
²Excessive runout
²Bent or dented
²Leak air through welds
²Have damaged bolt holes
Wheel repairs employing hammering, heating, or
welding are not allowed.Original equipment wheels are available through
your dealer. Replacement wheels from any other
source should be equivalent in:
²Load carrying capacity
²Diameter
²Width
²Offset
²Mounting configuration
Failure to use equivalent replacement wheels may
affect the safety and handling of your vehicle.
Replacement withusedwheels is not recommended.
Their service history may have included severe treat-
ment.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DUAL REAR WHEEL
INSTALLATION
Dual rear wheels use a special heavy duty lug nut
wrench. It is recommended to remove and install
dual rear wheels only when the proper wrench is
available. The wrench is also use to remove wheel
Fig. 21 WHEEL INSTALLATION 8-LUG SHOWN
1 - CENTER CAP
2 - LUG NUT
3 - TIRE/WHEEL ASSEMBLY
4 - WHEEL STUDS
Fig. 22 8-LUG TIGHTENING PATTERN
Fig. 23 TYPICAL 6 - LUG NUT TIGHTENING
PATTERN
22 - 12 TIRES/WHEELSDR
WHEELS (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BUZZ, SQUEAK &
RATTLE
Buzz, Squeak & Rattles (BSR) may be caused by
any one or more of the following and may be cor-
rected as indicated:
²Loose fasteners should be tightened to specifica-
tions.
²Damaged or missing clips should be replaced.
²Damaged trim panels should be replaced.²Incorrectly installed trim panels should be rein-
stalled properly.
Many BSR complaints such as loose trim, can be
serviced using the MopartParts BSR Noise Reduc-
tion Kit. This kit contains various tapes including
foam, flock and anti-squeak used to eliminate noises
caused by metal, plastic and vinyl components. Long
life lubricants and greases can also be used on a vari-
ety of components. Refer to the Buzz, Squeak & Rat-
tle Kit table for material contents and usage.
BUZZ, SQUEAK & RATTLE KIT
ITEM FEATURES APPLICATIONS SERVICE TEMP
Itch And Squeak
TapeAn abrasion resistant material
thin enough to conform to most
irregular surfaces. Stops most
itches and squeaks.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic, metal and
vinyl, vinyl and plastic. Interior.
Examples: Trim panels and
bezels.-40É to 225É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 107É
Celsius)
Black Nylon Flock Nylon Flock with an aggressive
acrylic adhesive. Provides for
cushioning and compression fit,
also isolates components.
Water-resistant.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic, vinyl and
plastic.
Examples: Pull cups, bezels,
clips, ducts, top cover to glass,
cowl panel.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
High Density
Urethane FoamTear resistant, highly resilient
and durable.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic. Water-
resistant.
Examples: I/P, heavy metal
rattles, isolating brackets.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
Open Cell Foam
TapeSoft foam conforms to irregular
surfaces.Wire harness and connector
wrap.
Examples: Seals, gasket,
wiring, heat ducts.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
Closed Cell Low
Density Foam TapeSoft, conformable. Water-
resistant.Wherever bulk is needed.
Prevents closing flutters and
rattles when applied to door
watershield.
Examples: Door, I/P.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
NYETGrease 880 Long life. Suspensions.
Examples: Strut busings, sway
bars.-40É to 390É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 200É
Celsius)
KrytoxTOil Long life. Will not dry out or
harm plastics or rubber.When access is not possible, oil
will migrate to condition. Vinyl,
rubber, plastic, metal.
Examples: Convertible top
bushings, pull cups trim panel
inserts.-30É to 400É
Fahrenheit
(-34É to 205É
Celsius)
KrytoxTGrease Long life. Will not dry out or
harm plastics or rubber.Vinyl, rubber, plastic, metal,
glass.
Examples: Weather-strips,
backlite and windshield
moldings.-30É to 400É
Fahrenheit
(-34É to 205É
Celsius)
DRBODY 23 - 11
BODY (Continued)

COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Open the tailgate.
(2) Remove the eight screws and remove tailgate
liner, if equipped.
(3) Remove the bolts and remove the cover. (Fig. 3)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the cover and install the bolts and
tighten by hand.
(2) Install the liner and install the screws, if
equipped.
HINGE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the tailgate. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
TAILGATE/TAILGATE - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the two screws and remove the hinge/
pivot. (Fig. 4)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hinge/pivot and install the screws.
(2) Tighten the screws to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the tailgate. (Refer to 23 - BODY/TAIL-
GATE/TAILGATE - INSTALLATION)
LATCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cover. (Refer to 23 - BODY/TAIL-
GATE/COVER - REMOVAL)
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
actuator rod for installation.
(3) Disconnect the actuator rod at the control
assembly. (Fig. 3)
(4) Remove the latch bolt and the check cable bolt.
(Fig. 5)
(5) Remove the latch and actuator rod assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the latch and actuator rod assembly.
(2) Install the latch and the check cable bolts and
tighten to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect the actuator rod to the control assem-
bly line up the marks made during removal.
(4) Install the cover. (Refer to 23 - BODY/TAIL-
GATE/COVER - INSTALLATION)
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Open tailgate.
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark out-
line of striker on cargo box jamb to aid installation.
(3) Using a Torx drive wrench, remove striker and
washer from cargo box.
Fig. 3 TAILGATE ASSEMBLY
1 - LATCH ASSEMBLY
2 - CONTROL ASSEMBLY
3 - ACTUATOR ROD (2)
4 - COVER
5 - BOLTS (10)
Fig. 4 TAILGATE HINGE
1 - HINGE/PIVOT
2 - TAILGATE PILLAR
3 - CLIP/BUSHING
4 - BOLTS (2)
23 - 16 TAILGATEDR

INSTALLATION
(1) Position striker and washer on jamb using
alignment outline as reference and install with Torx
drive wrench.
(2) Tighten the striker to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
RELEASE HANDLE/LATCH
REMOTE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the tailgate cover. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
TAILGATE/COVER - REMOVAL)
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
latch actuator rods for ease of installation.
(3) Disconnect the latch actuator rods. (Fig. 3)
(4) Remove the control assembly nuts and remove
the control assembly and the exterior handle. (Fig. 5)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the handle and the control assembly.
(2) Install the nuts and tighten to 7 N´m (60 in.
lbs.).
(3) Connect the actuator rods using the marks
made during removal.
(4) Install the cover. (Refer to 23 - BODY/TAIL-
GATE/COVER - INSTALLATION)
TAILGATE
REMOVAL
(1) Open the tailgate.
(2) Disconnect the tailgate check cables (Fig. 6).
(Refer to 23 - BODY/TAILGATE/CHECK CABLE -
REMOVAL)
(3) Close tailgate until the notch in the right hand
collar aligns with the pivot pin.
(4) Slip tailgate hinge collar from pivot pins.
(5) Slide tailgate to the right and separate left
hand collar from the pivot pin.
(6) Separate tailgate from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position tailgate collar on left hand pivot pin
and slide tailgate to the left.
(2) Raise tailgate until the notch in the right hand
collar aligns with the pivot pin.
(3) Connect the tailgate check cables. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/TAILGATE/CHECK CABLE - INSTALLA-
TION)
Fig. 5 LATCH HANDLE - LATCH
1 - EXTERIOR HANDLE
2 - CONTROL ASSEMBLY
3 - NUTS (2)
4 - TAILGATE
5-LATCH
6 - CHECK CABLE
7 - CHECK/LATCH BOLT
8 - LATCH BOLT
Fig. 6 TAILGATE ASSEMBLY
1 - LATCH STRIKER
2 - CHECK CABLE BOLT
3 - CHECK CABLE
4 - TAILGATE
5 - HINGE BUSHING
DRTAILGATE 23 - 17
LATCH STRIKER (Continued)

DOOR - FRONT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DOOR
REMOVAL.............................18
INSTALLATION.........................18
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................19
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
EXTERIOR HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................21
GLASS RUN CHANNEL
REMOVAL.............................21
INSTALLATION.........................22
HINGE
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................22
INSIDE HANDLE ACTUATOR
REMOVAL.............................22
INSTALLATION.........................22
LATCH
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................23
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................23LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................23
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................24
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
WATERDAM
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................25
WINDOW REGULATOR - POWER
REMOVAL.............................25
INSTALLATION.........................26
WINDOW REGULATOR - MANUAL
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................27
SIDE VIEW MIRROR FLAG
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
DOOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the door wire harness electrical con-
nector at the A-pillar. (Fig. 1)
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
outline of the door hinges on the door to aid in instal-
lation.
(3) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
NOTE: The epoxy bonded washers should not be
seperated from the hinge. If the washers are
removed the door may have to be re-adjusted.
(4) Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the door
hinges to the door.
INSTALLATION
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device
and install the door onto the hinges.
(2) Install the washers, if there were removed pre-
viously, nuts and tighten to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect the electrical connectors.
(4) Adjust the door as necessary. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/DOOR - ADJUSTMENTS)
23 - 18 DOOR - FRONTDR