One DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

CODE FAMILY NAME COMMON TRADE NAME TYPICAL APPLICATION
RRIM REINFORCED REACTION
INJECTED MOLDEDPUR, RRIM FASCIAS, BODY PANELS,
BODY TRIMS
TPE THERMO POLYETHYLENE TPE, HYTREL, BEXLOY-V FASCIAS, BUMPERS,
CLADDINGS
TPO THERMOPOLYOLEFIN POLYTROPE, RENFLEX,
SANTOPRENE, VISAFLEX,
ETA, APEX, TPO, SHIELDS,
CLADDINGSBUMPERS, END CAPS,
TELCAR, RUBBER, STRIPS,
SIGHT, INTERIOR B POST
TPP THERMO-POLYPROPYLENE TPP BUMPERS
TPU THERMOPOLYURETHANE,
POLYESTERTPU, HYTREL, TEXIN,
ESTANEBUMPERS, BODY SIDE,
MOLDINGS, FENDERS,
FASCIAS
PANEL SECTIONING
If it is required to section a large panel for a plas-
tic repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the panel
(Fig. 1). To bond two plastic panels together, a rein-
forcement must overlap both panels. The panels
must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The area to be
reinforced should be washed, then sanded. Be sure to
wipe off any excess soap and water when finished.
Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an abrasive
pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with compressed
air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding plastic panels, Follow repair mate-
rial manufacturers recommendations. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.After the parts have been bonded and have had time
to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the final
adhesive filler to the area being repaired. Smooth the
filler with a spreader, wooden tongue depressor, or
squeegee. For fine texturing, a small amount of
water can be applied to the filler surface while
smoothing. The cured filler can be sanded as neces-
sary and, as a final step, cleanup can be done with
soapy water. Wipe the surface clean with a dry cloth
allowing time for the panel to dry before moving on
with the repair.
PANEL REINFORCEMENT
Structural repair procedures for rigid panels with
large cracks and holes will require a reinforcement
backing. Reinforcements can be made with several
applications of glass cloth saturated with structural
adhesive. Semi-rigid or flexible repair materials
should be used for semi-rigid or flexible backing rein-
forcement (Fig. 2) and (Fig. 3). Open meshed fiber-
glass dry wall tape can be used to form a
reinforcement. The dry wall tape allows the resin to
penetrate through and make a good bond between
the panel and the adhesive. Structurally, the more
dry wall tape used, the stronger the repair.
Another kind of repair that can be done to repair
large cracks and holes is to use a scrap piece of sim-
ilar plastic and bond with structural adhesive. The
reinforcement should cover the entire break and
should have a generous amount of overlap on either
side of the cracked or broken area.
When repairing plastic, the damaged area is first
ªV'dº out, or beveled. Large bonding areas are desir-
able when repairing plastic because small repairs are
less likely to hold permanently. Beveling the area
around a crack at a 20 degree angle will increase the
bonding surface for a repair (Fig. 4). It is recom-
mended that sharp edges be avoided because the
joint may show through after the panel is refinished.
Fig. 1 PANEL SECTIONING
1 - EXISTING PANEL
2 - NEW PANEL
3 - PANEL ADHESIVE
4 - BONDING STRIP
23 - 6 BODYDR
BODY (Continued)

²Panel repair for both flexible and rigid panels
are basically the same. The primary difference
between flexible panel repair and rigid panel repair
is in the adhesive materials used (Fig. 5).
²The technician should first decide what needs to
be done when working on any type of body panel.
One should determine if it is possible to return the
damage part to its original strength and appearance
without exceeding the value of the replacement part.
²When plastic repairs are required, it is recom-
mended that the part be left on the vehicle when
every possible. That will save time, and the panel
will remain stationary during the repair. Misalign-ment can cause stress in the repair areas and can
result in future failure.
VISUAL INSPECTION
Composite materials can mask the severity of an
accident. Adhesive bond lines, interior structure of
the doors, and steel structures need to be inspected
carefully to get a true damage assessment. Close
inspection may require partial removal of interior
trim or inner panels.
Identify the type of repair: Puncture or Crack -
Damage that has penetrated completely through the
panel. Damage is confined to one general area; a
panel section is not required. However, a backer
panel, open fiberglass tape, or matted material must
be bonded from behind (Fig. 7) (Fig. 6).
PANEL SURFACE PREPARATION
If a body panel has been punctured, cracked, or
crushed, the damaged area must be removed from
the panel to achieve a successful repair. All spider
web cracks leading away from a damaged area must
be stopped or removed. To stop a running crack in a
panel, drilla6mm(0.250 in.) hole at the end of the
crack farthest away from the damage. If spider web
cracks can not be stopped, the panel would require
replacement. The surfaces around the damaged area
Fig. 2 SOFTENED EDGES
1 - SOFTENED EDGES
2 - PANEL ADHESIVE
3 - BONDING STRIP
Fig. 3 PANEL REINFORCEMENT
1 - PANEL ADHESIVE
2 - REINFORCEMENT
Fig. 4 BEVELING ANGLE - 20 DEGREE
Fig. 5 FIBERGLASS TAPE
Fig. 6 DAMAGE COMPONENT
1 - PUNCTURE
DRBODY 23 - 7
BODY (Continued)

(7) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares 13 mm (0.5 in.) from the edge in the center
of one side.
(8) Scuff the backside of the body panel around the
cutout hole with a scuff pad or sandpaper.
(9) Mix enough adhesive to cover one side of all
support squares.
(10) Apply adhesive to cover one side of all support
squares.
(11) Using number 8 sheet metal screws, secure
support squares to back side of body panel with
adhesive sandwiched between the panel and squares
(Fig. 9).
(12) Position patch in cutout against support
squares and adjust patch until the gap is equal along
all sides (Fig. 10).
(13) Drill 3 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the support
squares through the pre-drilled holes in the patch.
(14) Apply a coat of adhesive to the exposed ends
of the support squares (Fig. 11).
(15) Install screws to hold the patch to support
squares (Fig. 12). Tighten screws until patch surface
is flush with panel surface.
(16) Allow adhesive to cure, and remove all screws.
(17) Using a 125 mm (5 in.) 24 grit disc grinder,
grind a 50 mm (2 in.) to 75 mm (3 in.) wide and 2
mm (0.080 in.) deep path across the gaps around the
patch (Fig. 13). With compressed air, blow dust from
around patch.(18) Apply adhesive backed nylon mesh (dry wall
tape) over gaps around patch (Fig. 14).
(19) Mix enough adhesive to cover the entire patch
area.
(20) Apply adhesive over the mesh around patch,
and smooth epoxy with a wide spreader to reduce fin-
ish grinding. Use two to three layers of mesh and
adhesive to create a stronger repair (Fig. 15).
Fig. 9 SECURE SUPPORT SQUARES TO BODY
PANEL
1 - SUPPORT SQUARES
2 - SCREWS
3 - DAMAGED BODY PANEL
Fig. 10 POSITION PATCH IN CUTOUT AND ALIGN
1 - CUTOUT
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
Fig. 11 APPLY ADHESIVE TO SUPPORT SQUARES
1 - APPLICATOR
2 - SUPPORT SQUARES
3 - ADHESIVE
DRBODY 23 - 9
BODY (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - BUZZ, SQUEAK &
RATTLE
Buzz, Squeak & Rattles (BSR) may be caused by
any one or more of the following and may be cor-
rected as indicated:
²Loose fasteners should be tightened to specifica-
tions.
²Damaged or missing clips should be replaced.
²Damaged trim panels should be replaced.²Incorrectly installed trim panels should be rein-
stalled properly.
Many BSR complaints such as loose trim, can be
serviced using the MopartParts BSR Noise Reduc-
tion Kit. This kit contains various tapes including
foam, flock and anti-squeak used to eliminate noises
caused by metal, plastic and vinyl components. Long
life lubricants and greases can also be used on a vari-
ety of components. Refer to the Buzz, Squeak & Rat-
tle Kit table for material contents and usage.
BUZZ, SQUEAK & RATTLE KIT
ITEM FEATURES APPLICATIONS SERVICE TEMP
Itch And Squeak
TapeAn abrasion resistant material
thin enough to conform to most
irregular surfaces. Stops most
itches and squeaks.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic, metal and
vinyl, vinyl and plastic. Interior.
Examples: Trim panels and
bezels.-40É to 225É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 107É
Celsius)
Black Nylon Flock Nylon Flock with an aggressive
acrylic adhesive. Provides for
cushioning and compression fit,
also isolates components.
Water-resistant.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic, vinyl and
plastic.
Examples: Pull cups, bezels,
clips, ducts, top cover to glass,
cowl panel.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
High Density
Urethane FoamTear resistant, highly resilient
and durable.Between metal and metal,
metal and plastic. Water-
resistant.
Examples: I/P, heavy metal
rattles, isolating brackets.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
Open Cell Foam
TapeSoft foam conforms to irregular
surfaces.Wire harness and connector
wrap.
Examples: Seals, gasket,
wiring, heat ducts.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
Closed Cell Low
Density Foam TapeSoft, conformable. Water-
resistant.Wherever bulk is needed.
Prevents closing flutters and
rattles when applied to door
watershield.
Examples: Door, I/P.-40É to 180É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 82É Celsius)
NYETGrease 880 Long life. Suspensions.
Examples: Strut busings, sway
bars.-40É to 390É
Fahrenheit
(-40É to 200É
Celsius)
KrytoxTOil Long life. Will not dry out or
harm plastics or rubber.When access is not possible, oil
will migrate to condition. Vinyl,
rubber, plastic, metal.
Examples: Convertible top
bushings, pull cups trim panel
inserts.-30É to 400É
Fahrenheit
(-34É to 205É
Celsius)
KrytoxTGrease Long life. Will not dry out or
harm plastics or rubber.Vinyl, rubber, plastic, metal,
glass.
Examples: Weather-strips,
backlite and windshield
moldings.-30É to 400É
Fahrenheit
(-34É to 205É
Celsius)
DRBODY 23 - 11
BODY (Continued)

ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: For vehicles with four doors, it is recom-
mended that you adjust the rear door before adjust-
ing the front door. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS -
REAR/DOOR - ADJUSTMENTS)
²Door adjustment measurements should be
taken from stationary or welded body panels like
the roof, rocker or quarter panels.
²During adjustment procedures, it is recom-
mended that all the hinge fasteners be loosened
except for the upper most fasteners. Adjustments
can be made using the upper bolts to hold the door
with final torque of the fasteners occurring after
correct door positioning is achieved.
²A suitable body sealant should be used when
removing or moving the hinges.
FORE/AFT
NOTE: Fore/aft (lateral) door adjustment is done by
loosening the hinge to the hinge pillar fasteners
one hinge at a time and moving the door to the cor-
rect position.
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
(2)
Loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/HINGE - REMOVAL)
(3) Adjust the door to the correct position. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND
FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)(4) Tighten the hinge pillar fasteners to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
UP/DOWN
NOTE: Up/down door adjustment is done by loosen-
ing either the hinge to the hinge pillar fasteners or
the hinge to door fasteners and moving the door to
the correct position.
NOTE: When adjustment of the door requires the
loosening of the door to hinge fasteners, it will be
necessary to separate the epoxy bonded washers
with a chisel or other suitable tool.
NOTE: When the up/down adjustments are done
correctly, the top of the door is positioned over
flush to the roof. (Refer to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUC-
TURE/GAP AND FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
(2) Loosen the latch striker bolts. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/LATCH STRIKER -
REMOVAL)
(3) Loosen the hinge to door fasteners (Refer to 23
- BODY/DOOR - FRONT/DOOR - REMOVAL) or
loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners (Refer to 23
- BODY/DOOR - FRONT/HINGE - REMOVAL).
(4) Adjust the door to the correct position. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND
FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
(5) Tighten the hinge pillar fasteners or the door
to hinges fasteners to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(6) Tighten the latch striker bolts. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/LATCH STRIKER - INSTAL-
LATION)
IN/OUT
NOTE: In/out door adjustment is done by loosening
the hinge to door fasteners one hinge at a time and
moving the door to the correct position.
NOTE: When adjustment of the door requires the
loosening of the door to hinge fasteners, it will be
necessary to separate the epoxy bonded washers
with a chisel or other suitable tool.
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
(2) Loosen the latch striker bolts. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/LATCH STRIKER -
REMOVAL)
(3) Loosen the hinge to door fasteners. (Refer to 23
- BODY/DOOR - FRONT/DOOR - REMOVAL)
Fig. 1 FRONT DOOR
1 - NUTS (2)
2 - UPPER HINGE
3 - STUDS
4 - FRONT DOOR
5 - WIRE HARNESS
6 - LOWER HINGE
7 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS (2)
8 - BOLTS (2)
DRDOOR - FRONT 23 - 19
DOOR (Continued)

FORE/AFT
NOTE: Fore/aft (lateral) door adjustment is done by
loosening the hinge to the hinge pillar fasteners
one hinge at a time and moving the door to the cor-
rect position.
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
(2) Loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/HINGE -
REMOVAL)
(3) Adjust the door to the correct position. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND
FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) Tighten to hinge pillar fasteners to 28 N´m (21
ft. lbs.). (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/HINGE
- INSTALLATION)
NOTE: Use a suitable body sealer on the hinge to
body mating surfaces.
UP/DOWN
NOTE: Up/down door adjustment is done by loosen-
ing either the hinge to the hinge pillar fasteners orthe hinge to door fasteners and moving the door to
the correct position.
NOTE: When adjustment of the door requires the
loosening of the door to hinge fasteners, it will be
necessary to separate the epoxy bonded washers
with a chisel or other suitable tool.
NOTE: When the up/down adjustments are done
correctly, the top of the door is positioned over
flush to the roof. (Refer to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUC-
TURE/GAP AND FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
(2) Remove the latch striker. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/LATCH STRIKER - REMOVAL)
(3) Loosen the hinge to hinge pillar fasteners
(Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/HINGE -
REMOVAL) or loosen the hinge to door fasteners
(Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/DOOR -
REMOVAL).
(4) Adjust the door to the correct position. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND
FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
(5) Tighten to hinge pillar fasteners or the door to
hinges fasteners and fasteners to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(Refer to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/HINGE -
INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the latch striker. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/LATCH STRIKER - INSTALLA-
TION)
IN/OUT
NOTE: In/out door adjustment is done by loosening
the hinge to door fasteners one hinge at a time and
moving the door to the correct position.
NOTE: When adjustment of the door requires the
loosening of the door to hinge fasteners, it will be
necessary to separate the epoxy bonded washers
with a chisel or other suitable tool.
(1) Support the door with a suitable lifting device.
(2) Remove the latch striker. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/LATCH STRIKER - REMOVAL)
(3) Loosen the hinge to door fasteners. (Refer to 23
- BODY/DOORS - REAR/DOOR - REMOVAL)
(4) Adjust the front of the door to the correct posi-
tion. (Refer to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP
AND FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
(5) Tighten the door to hinges fasteners to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the latch striker. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/LATCH STRIKER - INSTALLA-
TION)
Fig. 1 DOOR ASSEMBLY
1 - NUTS (2)
2 - UPPER HINGE
3 - UPPER STUD
4 - REAR DOOR
5 - WIRE HARNESS
6 - LOWER STUD
7 - LOWER HINGE
8 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
9 - BOLTS (2)
DRDOORS - REAR 23 - 29
DOOR (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the run channels into the door and
engage the upper screws into the keyhole slots.
(2) Install the lower screws and tighten to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.).
(3) Tighten the upper screws to 10 N´m (89 in.
lbs.).
(4) Stuff the glass run weatherstrip into the chan-
nels.
(5) Verify correct window operation.
(6) Install the window regulator. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOORS - REAR/WINDOW REGULATOR -
INSTALLATION)
HINGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the door to
replace the hinges if they are replaced one at a
time.
NOTE: The epoxy coated washers should not be
removed from the hinge. If the washers are
removed the door may have to be re-adjusted.
(1) Open the front door
UPPER HINGE
(1) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
position of the hinge on the door and b-pillar.
(2) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the hinge to
the door.
(3) Remove the three bolts attaching the hinge to
the b-pillar and remove the hinge.
LOWER HINGE
(1) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
position of the hinge on the door and b-pillar.
(2) Remove the lower b-pillar trim. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/B-PILLAR LOWER TRIM -
REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the hinge to
the door.
(4) Remove the two bolts attaching the hinge to
the b-pillar.
(5) From the inside of the vehicle remove the
remaining bolt attaching the hinge to the b-pillar
and remove the hinge.
INSTALLATION
UPPER HINGE
(1) Install the hinge to door washers, if there were
removed previously, nut and bolt and tighten to 28
N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the three hinge to b-pillar bolts and
tighten to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Adjust the door if needed. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/DOOR - ADJUSTMENTS)
LOWER HINGE
(1) Install the hinge and install the b-pillar bolts.
(2) Tighten the bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the hinge to door washers, if there were
removed previously, nut and bolt and tighten to 28
N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Adjust the door if needed. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOORS - REAR/DOOR - ADJUSTMENTS)
(5) Install the lower b-pillar trim. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/B-PILLAR LOWER TRIM -
INSTALLATION)
INSIDE HANDLE ACTUATOR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the screw and remove the inside han-
dle. (Fig. 5)
(2) Remove the door trim panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOORS - REAR/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL)
(3) Disconnect the latch actuator rod. (Fig. 6)
(4) Remove the nuts and remove the remote han-
dle actuator.
Fig. 4 REAR RUN CHANNEL
1 - REAR RUN CHANNEL
2 - SCREW LOCATIONS
DRDOORS - REAR 23 - 31
GLASS RUN CHANNEL (Continued)

EXTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................36
BODY ISOLATORS
REMOVAL.............................36
INSTALLATION.........................37
CARGO BOX
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................37
CARGO BOX - TIE DOWN
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39GRILLE
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
GRILLE FRAME
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
REAR WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
UPPER RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
SIDE VIEW MIRROR GLASS
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................43
REAR FENDER
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
NOTE: Body side moldings are attached to the body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body
panel, parallel to the top edge of the molding and to
one end to use as a guide for installation, if neces-
sary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
molding with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating molding.
(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,
remove and discard the molding from the outside of
the body panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean all residue from the body side
molding attachment area of the body panel.(2) Wipe area with a clean lint free cloth moist-
ened with a 50% solution of water and alcohol and
wipe dry immediately with a dry lint free cloth.
(3) Apply new body side molding using the guide
tape on the body panel and apply consistent and uni-
form pressure of approximately 40 p.s.i. over the
entire surface of the molding.
BODY ISOLATORS
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen all cab to frame mounting bolts (six
standard cab, eight quad cab). (Fig. 1)
(2) Remove the mounting bolts and rebound cush-
ions
(3) Using a floor jack and block of wood under the
cab sill, lift the body to gain access to the isolators.
(4) Remove the isolators.
(5) Install new isolators and repeat steps one
through 4, for the opposite side.
23 - 36 EXTERIORDR

CARGO BOX - TIE DOWN
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the bolts and remove the tie down
cleat. (Fig. 4)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the tie down cleat and install the bolts.
(2) Tighten the bolts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS -
REMOVAL)
(2) Disconnect the washer hose.
(3) Remove the hood seal.
(4) Remove the six push pin fasteners from the
front of the grille. (Fig. 5)
(5) Remove the two rear corner screws and remove
the grilles.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the grill and install the two rear corner
screws.
(2) Install the six push pin fasteners along the
front of the grille.
(3) Install the hood seal.
(4) Connect the washer hose.(5) Install the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS - INSTAL-
LATION)
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL
NOTE: Exterior name plates are attached to body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge and one end of the name
plate to use as a guide for installation, if necessary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating name plate.
(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,
remove and discard the name plate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean all residue from the name
plate attachment area of the body panel.
(2) Wipe area with a clean lint free cloth moist-
ened with a 50% solution of water and alcohol and
wipe dry immediately with a dry lint free cloth.
(3) Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on
back of name plate.
(4)
Position name plate properly on the body panel.
(5) Apply consistent and uniform pressure over the
entire surface of the name plate, with palm of hand.
(6) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion.
Do not exceed 52ÉC (120ÉF) when heating name
plate.
Fig. 4 TIE DOWN CLEAT
1 - BOLTS (2)
2 - CLEAT
Fig. 5 COWL GRILLE
1 - PUSH PIN FASTENERS (6)
2 - COWL GRILLE
3 - SCREWS (2)
23 - 38 EXTERIORDR

HOOD
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HINGE
REMOVAL.............................46
INSTALLATION.........................46
HOOD
REMOVAL.............................46
INSTALLATION.........................47
LATCH
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................47LATCH RELEASE CABLE/HANDLE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................47
LATCH STRIKER / SECONDARY CATCH
REMOVAL.............................47
INSTALLATION.........................48
SUPPORT CYLINDER
REMOVAL.............................48
INSTALLATION.........................48
HINGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the hood to
replace one or both hinges. The hinges can be
replaced one at a time.
(1) Remove the cowl grille. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
EXTERIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL)
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
position of the hinge on the hood.
(3) Remove the fender support bolt. (Fig. 1)
(4) Remove the support cylinder. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/HOOD/SUPPORT CYLINDER - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the hood nuts.
(6) Remove the wheelhouse splash shield. (Refer to
23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(7) From inside the fender, remove the two hinge
bolts. (Fig. 2)
(8) Slide the hinge forward and remove from the
fender rail.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hinge and slide back into position
on the fender rail.
(2) From inside the fender, install the two hinge
bolts and tighten to 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the hood nuts and line up the marks
made previously.
(4) Tighten the nuts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the support cylinder. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/HOOD/SUPPORT CYLINDER - INSTALLA-
TION)
(6) Install the fender support bolt and tighten to
11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.).(7) Check hood fit and adjust if required. (Refer to
23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND FLUSH -
SPECIFICATIONS)
(8) Install the cowl grille. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/COWL GRILLE - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the wheelhouse splash shield. (Refer to
23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLATION)
HOOD
REMOVAL
(1) Open the hood.
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
position of the hinges on the hood.
(3) Remove the hood hinge nuts and remove the
hood.
Fig. 1 HINGE/FENDER BOLT
1 - FENDER
2 - FENDER SUPPORT BOLT
3 - HINGE
23 - 46 HOODDR