Crank DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will over-
heat and could fail.
(7) Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to
at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to
start engine. If engine does not start within 15 sec-
onds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool
(15 min.), before cranking again.
DISCONNECT CABLE CLAMPS AS FOLLOWS:
²Disconnect BLACK cable clamp from engine
ground on disabled vehicle.
²When using a Booster vehicle, disconnect
BLACK cable clamp from battery negative terminal.
Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive
terminal.
²Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery posi-
tive terminal on disabled vehicle.
HOISTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING
Refer to the Owner's Manual for emergency vehicle
lifting procedures.
WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI-
CLE. WHEN A CHASSIS OR DRIVETRAIN COMPO-
NENT IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE
CENTER OF GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME
HOISTING CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY
SUPPORT (Fig. 6) OR SECURE VEHICLE TO HOIST-
ING DEVICE WHEN THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.
FLOOR JACK
When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used
to lift a vehicle (Fig. 7). Support the vehicle in the
raised position with jack stands at the front and rear
ends of the frame rails (Fig. 6).
CAUTION: Do not lift vehicle with a floor jack posi-
tioned under:
²An axle tube.
²A body side sill.
²A steering linkage component.
²A drive shaft.
²The engine or transmission oil pan.
²The fuel tank.
²A front suspension arm.NOTE: Use the correct frame rail lifting locations
only (Fig. 8) and (Fig. 9).
HOIST
A vehicle can be lifted with:
²A single-post, frame-contact hoist.
²A twin-post, chassis hoist.
²A ramp-type, drive-on hoist.
NOTE: When a frame-contact type hoist is used,
verify that the lifting pads are positioned properly
(Fig. 7). The forward lifting pads should be posi-
tioned against the forward flange of the transmis-
sion crossmember brackets at the bottom of the
frame rail (Fig. 8). The real lifting pads should be
wedged between the forward flange of the leaf
spring bracket and the frame rail (Fig. 9). Safety
stands should be placed under the frame rails at
the front and rear ends (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6 Safety Stands
1 - SAFETY STANDS
0 - 20 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR
JUMP STARTING (Continued)

HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster.
Excessive Brake Pedal
Effort.1. Internal or external seal leakage. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty steering pump. 2. Replace pump.
Brakes Self Apply 1. Dump valve faulty. 1. Replace booster.
2. Contamination in hydraulic
system.2. Flush hydraulic system and replace
booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
Booster Chatter, Pedal
Vibration1. Slipping pump belt. 1. Replace power steering belt.
2. Low pump fluid level. 2. Fill pump and check for leaks.
Grabbing Brakes 1. Low pump flow. 1. Test and repair/replace pump.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 55).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal.
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

Engagement problems can cause slip, chatter/shud-
der and noisy operation. The causes may be clutch
disc contamination, wear, distortion or flywheel dam-
age.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
6 - 2 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Partial engagement of clutch disc.
One side of disc is worn and the
other side is glazed and lightly
worn.1. Clutch pressure plate position
incorrect.1. Replace clutch disc and cover.
2. Clutch cover, spring, or release
fingers bent or distorted.2. Replace clutch disc and cover.
3. Clutch disc damaged or
distorted.2. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Check alignment and runout of
flywheel, disc, pressure plate, andùr
clutch housing. Correct as
necessary.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Slave Cylinder Nuts 23 17 -
Clutch Master Cylinder
Nuts28 21 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V6
&V850 37 -
Pressure Plate Bolts - V10 30 22.5 -
Pressure Plate Bolts -
Diesel30 22.5 -
Release Bearing Pivot 23 17 -
Flywheel Bolts 95 70 -
CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Support engine with wood block and adjustable
jack stand, to prevent strain on engine mounts.
(2) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped.
(3) If pressure plate will be reused, mark the posi-
tion on flywheel with paint or scriber (Fig. 1). Also
note location marks on the pressure next to the bolt
holes. The mark will be a L or a circle with an X in
it.
(4) Insert clutch alignment tool through clutch disc
and into pilot bushing, to hold disc in place while
removing bolts.
(5) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly, a few
threads at a time and in a diagonal pattern to pre-
vent warping the plate.
(6) Remove bolts completely and remove pressure
plate, disc and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with a NLGI
- 2 rated grease.
(3) Install clutch alignment tool in clutch disc hub
with the raised side of hub is facing away from the
flywheel.
NOTE: Flywheel side is imprinted on the disc face.
(4) Install alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion disc on the flywheel.
(5) Position pressure plate over disc and onto the
flywheel (Fig. 2).
(6) Align and hold pressure plate in position and
install bolts finger tight.
(7) Tighten bolts evenly and a few threads at a
time in a diagonal pattern.
CAUTION: Bolts must be tightened evenly and to
specified torque to avoid warping pressure plate
cover.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 5
CLUTCH (Continued)

(11) Wipe pilot bearing surface clean.
(12) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Verify spring clips that retain fork on pivot
ball and release bearing on fork are installed prop-
erly (Fig. 5).
NOTE: If release lever is installed correctly, the
lever part number will be toward the bottom of the
transmission and right side up. There is also a
stamped ªIº in the lever which goes to the pivot ball
side of the transmission.
(13) Install transmission and transfer case if
equipped.
(14) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
CLUTCH HOUSING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The clutch housing maintains alignment between
the crankshaft and transmission input shaft. Mis-
alignment can cause clutch noise, hard shifting,
incomplete release and chatter. Also premature pilot
bearing, cover release fingers and clutch disc wear.
In severe cases, it can cause premature wear of the
transmission input shaft and front bearing.
NOTE: Only the NV4500 clutch housing can be
checked using the following bore and face runout
procedures. The NV5600 clutch housing is a inte-
gral part of the transmission and can only be
checked off the vehicle.
CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
CAUTION: On diesel engines if housing bore runout
exceeds 0.015 inch, the clutch housing/transmis-
sion adapter plate must be replaced. On gas
engines if housing bore runout exceeds 0.053 in.
the clutch housing must be replaced.
NOTE: Offset dowels are available for gas engines
to correct housing bore runout. They are not avail-
able for diesel engines.
(1) Remove the clutch housing.
(2) Remove the clutch cover and disc.
(3) Replace one of the flywheel bolts with an
appropriate size threaded rod that is 10 in. (25.4 cm)
long (Fig. 6). The rod will be used to mount the dial
indicator.
(4) Remove release fork from the clutch housing.
(5) Install clutch housing. Tighten the housing
bolts nearest the alignment dowels first.
(6) Mount dial indicator on the threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on the clutch housing bore
(Fig. 7).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the topof the housing bore. Zero the indicator at this
point.
(8) Rotate crankshaft and record indicator read-
ings at eight points (45É apart) around the bore (Fig.
8). Take measurement at least twice for accuracy.
(9) Subtract each reading from the one 180É oppo-
site to determine runout and direction. Bore runout
example (Fig. 8):
²0.000 ± (±0.007) = 0.007 in.
²+0.002 ± (±0.010) = 0.012 in.
²+0.004 ± (±0.005) = 0.009 in.
²±0.001 ± (+0.001) = ±0.002 in.
Fig. 5 FORK, BEARING AND SPRING CLIPS
1 - FORK
2 - SPRING CLIP
3 - BEARING
4 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 6 DIAL INDICATOR MOUNTING STUD
1 - 7/16 - 20 THREAD
2 - NUT
3 - STUD OR THREADED ROD
4 - 10 INCHES LONG
DRCLUTCH 6 - 7
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

In this example the largest or total indicator read-
ing (TIR) difference is 0.012 inch. This means the
housing bore is offset from the crankshaft centerline
by 0.006 in. which is 1/2 of 0.012 inch. The dowels
needed to correct this have an offset of 0.007 in. (Fig.
9).
Remove housing and install dowels with the slotted
side facing out so they can be turned with a screw-
driver. Then install the housing and mount the dial
indicator and check bore runout again. Rotate the
dowels until the TIR is less than 0.010 inch.
Clutch Housing Face Runout
(1) Position dial indicator towards the housing face
(Fig. 10) with indicator plunger on the rim of the
housing bore.
(2) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the 10 O'clock position and zero the dial indicator.(3) Measure and record face runout readings at
four points 90É apart (Fig. 11). Take measurement at
least twice for accuracy.
(4) Subtract lowest reading from highest to deter-
mine total runout. If low reading wasminus0.004
in. and highest reading wasplus0.009 in. the total
runout is 0.013 inch.
NOTE: Maximum acceptable face runout is 0.010
inch.
Fig. 7 CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
1 - MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
4 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE
Fig. 8 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE CIRCLE
Fig. 9 ALIGNMENT DOWEL SELECTION
1 - SLOT DIRECTION OF OFFSET
2 - OFFSET DOWEL
TIR VALUE OFFSET DOWEL REQUIRED
0.011 - 0.021 inch 0.007 inch
0.022 - 0.035 inch 0.014 inch
0.036 - 0.052 inch 0.021 inch
Fig. 10 DIAL INDICATOR LOCATION
1 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE
4 - INDICATOR MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
6 - 8 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2)
Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 11
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install tensioner on to the mounting bracket.
Tighten bolt to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install tensioner and bracket assembly
(3) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
BELT TENSIONER - 5.9L
DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
Drive belts on all engines are equipped with a
spring loaded automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 4). This
tensioner maintains constant belt tension at all times
and requires no maintenance or adjustment.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to check belt tension with
a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an
automatic belt tensioner.
OPERATION
WARNING: THE AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER
ASSEMBLY IS SPRING LOADED. DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO DISASSEMBLE THE TENSIONER ASSEMBLY.
The automatic belt tensioner maintains correct belt
tension using a coiled spring within the tensioner
housing. The spring applies pressure to the tensioner
arm pressing the arm into the belt, tensioning the
belt.
REMOVAL
WARNING: BECAUSE OF HIGH SPRING PRES-
SURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DISASSEMBLE AUTO-
MATIC TENSIONER. UNIT IS SERVICED AS AN
ASSEMBLY.
(1) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(2) Remove tensioner mounting bolt (Fig. 5) and
remove tensioner.
Fig. 4 Accessory Drive Belt - 5.9L Diesel
1 - GENERATOR
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - IDLER
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY
6 - CRANKSHAFT
7 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
8 - A/C COMPRESSOR
Fig. 5 AUTOMATIC BELT TENSIONER 5.9L DIESEL
ENGINE
1 - GENERATOR
2 - WATER PUMP
3 - IDLER
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY
6 - CRANKSHAFT
7 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
8 - A/C COMPRESSOR
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 23
BELT TENSIONER-5.7L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CORD EDGE FAILURE
(Tensile member exposed at edges
of belt or separated from belt body)1. Incorrect belt tension 1. Inspect/Replace tensioner if
necessary
2. Belt contacting stationary object 2. Replace belt
3. Pulley(s) out of tolerance 3. Replace pulley
4. Insufficient adhesion between
tensile member and rubber matrix4. Replace belt
REMOVAL
CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP
BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVER DAM-
AGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic (spring load) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Rotate belt tensioner until it contacts it's stop.
Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into
the freearm position. (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Check condition of all pulleys.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction (Fig. 7).
(2) Install new belt (Fig. 7). Route the belt around
all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the ten-
sioner arm until it contacts it's stop position. Route
the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner
rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto
all pulleys.
(3) With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt
wear indicator (Fig. 8). On 4.7L Engines only, the gap
between the tang and the housing stop (measure-
ment A) must not exceed 24 mm (.94 inches). If the
measurement exceeds this specification replace the
serpentine accessory drive belt.
Fig. 7 BELT ROUTING 3.7L / 4.7L
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
Fig. 8 Accessory Drive Belt Wear Indicator±4.7L
Engine
1 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
7 - 26 ACCESSORY DRIVEDR
DRIVE BELT - 3.7L / 4.7L (Continued)

REMOVAL
CAUTION: Do not attempt to check belt tension with
a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an
automatic belt tensioner. Refer to Automatic Belt
Tensioner in this group.
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label.This label is located in
the engine compartment.
Drive belts on diesel engines are equipped with a
spring loaded automatic belt tensioner.
This belt tensioner will be used on all belt config-
urations, such as with or without air conditioning.
For more information, (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - DESCRIP-
TION).
(1) A 1/2 inch square hole is provided in the auto-
matic belt tensioner. Attach a 1/2 inch drive-long
handle ratchet to this hole.(2) Rotate ratchet and tensioner assembly clock-
wise (as viewed from front) until tension has been
relieved from belt.
(3) Remove belt from water pump pulley first.
(4) Remove belt from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When installing the accessory drive belt,
the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may
overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong
direction. Refer to (Fig. 10) or (Fig. 11)for correct
engine belt routing. The correct belt with correct
length must be used.
(1) Position drive belt over all pulleysexcept
water pump pulley.
(2) Attach a 1/2 inch ratchet to tensioner.
(3) Rotate ratchet and belt tensioner clockwise.
Place belt over water pump pulley. Let tensioner
rotate back into place. Remove ratchet. Be sure belt
is properly seated on all pulleys.
Fig. 10 Belt Routing ± 5.9L Diesel Engine With A/C
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY
6 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
7 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
8 - A/C COMPRESSOR PUMP PULLEY
Fig. 11 Belt Routing - 5.9L Diesel Engine Without
A/C
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
5 - RADIATOR FAN PULLEY
6 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
7 - AUTOMATIC TENSIONER
DRACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 29
DRIVE BELT - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)