Cylinder DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 1998, Model line: RAM 1500, Model: DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.GPages: 2627
Page 16 of 2627

Oils of the SAE 5W-40 grade number are preferred
when minimum temperatures consistently fall below
-15ÉC. (Fig. 5)
DESCRIPTION - POWER STEERING FLUID
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid is
required in the power steering system. Substitute
fluids can induce power steering system failure.
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid
when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it
can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle
such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not
permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition.
As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look
darker in color and may eventually become brown.
This is normal.ATF+4 also has a unique odor that
may change with age. Consequently, odor and color
cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the
need for a fluid change.
DESCRIPTION - ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING: ANTIFREEZE IS AN ETHYLENE GLYCOL
BASE COOLANT AND IS HARMFUL IF SWAL-
LOWED OR INHALED. IF SWALLOWED, DRINK
TWO GLASSES OF WATER AND INDUCE VOMIT-
ING. IF INHALED, MOVE TO FRESH AIR AREA.
SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT
STORE IN OPEN OR UNMARKED CONTAINERS.
WASH SKIN AND CLOTHING THOROUGHLY AFTER
COMING IN CONTACT WITH ETHYLENE GLYCOL.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. DISPOSE OF
GLYCOL BASE COOLANT PROPERLY, CONTACTYOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR
LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER IN YOUR
AREA. DO NOT OPEN A COOLING SYSTEM WHEN
THE ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE OR
HOT UNDER PRESSURE, PERSONAL INJURY CAN
RESULT. AVOID RADIATOR COOLING FAN WHEN
ENGINE COMPARTMENT RELATED SERVICE IS
PERFORMED, PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: Use of Propylene Glycol based coolants
is not recommended, as they provide less freeze
protection and less corrosion protection.
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves and
engine block. Then coolant carries the heat to the
radiator where the tube/fin radiator can transfer the
heat to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equiva-
lent ethylene glycol base coolant with organic corro-
sion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled
water to obtain a freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it
loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush,
and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solu-
tion.
CAUTION: MoparTAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be
mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of
coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other
HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not
be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and
decreased corrosion protection.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The coolant performance of various mix-
tures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a
mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for pur-
pose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a
higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion
inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the pres-
ence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives
form deposits in system. These act as insulation
causing temperature to rise to as high as 149ÉC
(300ÉF). This temperature is hot enough to melt plas-
Fig. 4 API RATING WRAP FIGURE
Fig. 5 DIESEL OIL VISCOSITY CHART
DRLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 3
FLUID TYPES (Continued) 
Page 17 of 2627

tic and soften solder. The increased temperature can
result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent
ethylene-glycol freezes at -22ÉC (-8ÉF).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water-Is the recom-
mended mixture, it provides protection against freez-
ing to -37ÉC (-34ÉF). The antifreeze concentration
must alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-
round in all climates. If percentage is lower, engine
parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protec-
tion against freezing is provided with a 68 percent
antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing
down to -67.7ÉC (-90ÉF). A higher percentage will
freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher per-
centage of antifreeze can cause the engine to over-
heat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than
that of water.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
COOLANT SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
NOTE: Refer to the vehicle's coolant bottle to iden-
tify HOAT or Non-HOAT coolant. Non-HOAT coolant
is green in color.
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a
freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
DESCRIPTION - TRANSFER CASE
Recommended lubricant for the NV241 GENII,
NV271, NV243, NV244 GENII, and NV273 transfer
cases is MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission
Fluid.
DESCRIPTION - AXLE
NOTE: DaimlerChrysler recommends using MoparT
lubricants or lubricants of equal quality.
FRONT AXLE
²C205F - MopartGear Lubricant 75W-90
²9 1/4 AA - MopartSynthetic Gear Lubricant
75W-90
REAR AXLE
²9 1/4 - MopartSynthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-
140
²10 1/2 AA - MopartSynthetic Gear Lubricant
75W-90
²11 1/2 AA - MopartSynthetic Gear Lubricant
75W-90
NOTE: Trac-LokTdifferentials require Limited Slip
Additive in the lubricant. Trac-RiteŸ differentials
DO NOT require Limited Slip Additive.
DESCRIPTION - MANUAL TRANSMISSION
NOTE: DaimlerChrysler recommends using MoparT
lubricants or lubricants of equal quality.
²NV3500 - MopartManual Transmission Lubri-
cant
²NV4500 - MopartSynthetic 75W85 Manual
Transmission Lubricant
²NV5600 - MopartManual Transmission Lubri-
cant
DESCRIPTION - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FLUID
NOTE: Refer to Service Procedures in this group for
fluid level checking procedures.
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid is
the recommended fluid for DaimlerChrysler auto-
matic transmissions.
Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch
chatter can result from the use of improper
fluid.
MopartATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid
when new is red in color. The ATF is dyed red so it
can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle
such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not
permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition.
As the vehicle is driven, the ATF will begin to look
darker in color and may eventually become brown.
This is normal.ATF+4 also has a unique odor that
may change with age. Consequently, odor and color
cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the
need for a fluid change.
0 - 4 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR
FLUID TYPES (Continued) 
Page 19 of 2627

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
REAR AXLE   .03 L (1 oz)
9 1/4 2.32 L (4.9 pts.)***
10 1/2 AA 2.25 L (4.75 pts.)
11 1/2 AA 3.62 L (7.65 pts)
*** With Trac-Lok add 118 ml (4 oz.) of Limited Slip
Additive.
** Includes 0.9L (1.0 qts.) for coolant reservoir.
*Nominal refill capacities are shown. A variation may
be observed from vehicle to vehicle due to
manufacturing tolerance and refill procedure.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
Maintenance Schedule Information not included in
this section, is located in the appropriate Owner's
Manual.
There are two maintenance schedules that show
therequiredservice for your vehicle.
First is ScheduleªBº. It is for vehicles that are
operated under the conditions that are listed below
and at the beginning of the schedule.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C (32É
F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
²Off-road or desert operation.
²If equipped for and operating with E-85
(ethanol) fuel.
NOTE: If ANY of these apply to the vehicle then
change the engine oil every 3,000 miles (5 000 km)
or 3 months, whichever comes first and follow
schedule ªBº of the(Maintenance Schedules(sec-
tion of this manual.
NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi-
tions listed for Schedule(B(.
Second is ScheduleªAº. It is for vehicles that are
not operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule9B9.Use the schedule that best describes the driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.
CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte-
nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.
At Each Stop for Fuel
²Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after
a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil
level while the vehicle is on level ground will
improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN
mark.
²Check the windshield washer solvent and add if
required.
Once a Month
²Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear
or damage.
²Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.
²Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transmission
and add as needed.
²Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
²Change the engine oil filter.
²Inspect the exhaust system.
²Inspect the brake hoses.
²Inspect the CV joints (if equipped) and front sus-
pension components.
²Check the automatic transmission fluid level.
²Check the manual transmission fluid level.
²Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval
shown on Schedule ªAº 10 000 km (6,000 miles) or
every other interval shown on Schedule ªBº 10 000
km (6,000 miles).
Tire Rotation
²Rotate the tires at 6,000 miles (10 000 km).
Schedule ªBº
Follow schedule ªBº if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C (32É
F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR
FLUID CAPACITIES (Continued) 
Page 26 of 2627

Once a Month
²Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear
or damage.
²Inspect the batteries and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.
²Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transmission
and transfer case (if equipped), add as needed.
²Check Filter MinderŸ. Replace air cleaner
filter element if necessary.
²Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
²Change the engine oil filter.
²Inspect the exhaust system.
²Inspect the brake hoses.
²Inspect the CV joints (if equipped) and front sus-
pension components.
²Check the automatic transmission fluid level.
²Check the manual transmission fluid level.
²Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
Tire Rotation
²Rotate the tires every 7,500 miles (12 000 km).
Engine Oil Change Chart Notes
²LTier 1 EPA (250 hp or 305 hp) Engines Only
(see engine data label for your engine type)
²² California LEV (235 hp) Engines Only (see
engine data label for your engine type)
Schedule ªBº
Follow schedule ªBº if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C (32É
F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
²Off-road or desert operation.
Miles 3,750 7,500 11,250 15,000 18,750
(Kilometers) (6 000) (12 000) (18 000) (24 000) (30 000)
Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X² XL²X²XL²X²
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500
(4X4) models only.XX
Inspect water pump weep hole for
blockage.X
Replace fuel filter element. Clean the water
in fuel sensor.X
Change rear axle fluid. X
Change front axle fluid (4X4). X
Inspect brake linings.X
Inspect and adjust parking brake if
necessary.X
DRLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 13
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued) 
Page 59 of 2627

SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4X2
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(3) Remove the upper shock absorber nut, retainer
and grommet.
(4) Remove the lower nuts and remove the shock
absorber.
REMOVAL - 4X4
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(4) Remove the upper shock nut and with the insu-
lator and retainer (Fig. 27).
(5) Remove the lower shock bolt (Fig. 27).
(6) Remove the shock
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4X2
NOTE: Upper shock nut must be replaced or use
Mopar Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteT242 on existing nut.(1) Install the lower retainer and grommet on the
shock absorber stud. Insert the shock absorber
through the frame bracket hole.
(2) Install the lower nuts and tighten the nuts to
28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper grommet, retainer and new
nut or use Mopar Lock 'N Seal or Loctitet242 on
existing nut, on the shock absorber stud. Tighten nut
to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 4X4
(1) Install the upper part of the shock into the
frame bracket with the insulators and retainers (Fig.
27).
(2) Install the nut and Tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Install the lower part of the shock into the
lower control arm and Tighten the bolt to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 27).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
The bar extends across the front underside of the
chassis and connects to the frame crossmember. The
Fig. 27 SHOCK 4X4
1 - INSULATOR & RETAINER
2 - NUT
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - BOLT
2 - 24 FRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSIONDR 
Page 73 of 2627

LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on the cam
adjusters and suspension arm for installation refer-
ence (Fig. 22).
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam
and cam bolt from the axle.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket and remove the lower suspension arm (Fig.
22).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm at the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.
(2) Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
(3) Install the cam bolt, cam and nut in the axle
and align the reference marks.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten cam nut at the axle bracket to 217
N´m (160 ft. lbs.). Tighten rear nut at the frame
bracket to 217 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the upper stud in the engine compartment.
(2) Remove three nuts from the upper shock
bracket (Fig. 23).
(3) Remove the lower bolt from the axle bracket
(Fig. 24). Remove the shock absorber from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
upper stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
spring from engine compartment.
(2) Install the lower bolt and tighten to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper shock bracket and three nuts.
Tighten nuts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install upper grommet and retainer. Install
upper shock nut and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs).
Fig. 22 Adjustment Cam
1 - ADJUSTMENT CAM
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BRACKET REINFORCEMENT
4 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
2 - 38 FRONT - LINK/COILDR 
Page 76 of 2627

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................41
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................41
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................42
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................43INSTALLATION.........................43
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................43
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................44
OPERATION...........................44
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................45
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
DRREAR 2 - 41 
Page 251 of 2627

FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 26
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................27
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........27
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......31
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................32
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR..................32
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................33
REMOVAL - REAR.....................34REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS........34
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................34
INSTALLATION - REAR.................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DUAL WHEELS....35
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................36
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................36
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 37
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........37
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........38
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....38
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....39
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 39
INSTALLATION.........................40
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 41
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 42
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................43
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR 
Page 252 of 2627

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued) 
Page 253 of 2627

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)