light DODGE RAM 2001 Service Service Manual

NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-
stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If
the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding
condition.
(10) Install the propeller shaft with the installa-
tion reference marks aligned.
(11) Tighten the universal joint yoke clamp screws
to 19 N´m (14 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the brake drums.
(13) Add gear lubricant to the differential housing,
if necessary. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for
gear lubricant requirements.
(14) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the
differential housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 26).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 27).(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side
of the differential housing. Attach dial indicator to
housing pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger
against the opposite side of the housing (Fig. 27) and
zero the indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 27).
CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(12) Remove the dial indicator.
(13) Pry the differential case loose from the hous-
ing. To prevent damage, pivot on housing with the
end of the pry bar against spreader (Fig. 28).
(14) Remove the case from housing. Tag bearing
cups to indicate their location.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove roll-pin holding mate shaft in housing.
(2) Remove pinion gear mate shaft (Fig. 29).
(3) Rotate the differential side gears and remove
the pinion mate gears and thrust washers (Fig. 30).
(4) Remove the differential side gears and thrust
washers.Fig. 26 Bearing Cap Identification
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 27 Spread Differential Housing
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
3 - 158 REAR AXLE - 267RBIBR/BE
PINION SEAL (Continued)

ASSEMBLY
(1) Install the differential side gears and thrust
washers.
(2) Install the pinion mate gears and thrust wash-
ers.
(3) Install the pinion gear mate shaft.(4) Align the hole in the pinion gear mate shaft
with the hole in the differential case.
(5) Install and seat the pinion mate shaft roll-pin
in the differential case and mate shaft with a punch
and hammer (Fig. 31). Peen the edge of the roll-pin
hole in the differential case slightly in two places,
180É apart.
(6) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If replacement differential bearings or differ-
ential case are being installed, differential side
bearing shim requirements may change. Refer to
Adjustments (Differential Bearing Preload and Gear
Backlash) procedures to determine proper shim
selection.
(1) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes. Install the hold
down clamps and tighten the tool turnbuckle finger-
tight.
(2) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side of
the differential housing and attach dial indicator to
the pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing and zero the dial indica-
tor.
Fig. 28 Differential Removal
1 - DIFFERENTIAL
2-PRYBAR
Fig. 29 Pinion Mate Shaft
1 - PINION MATE GEAR
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - DRIFT
Fig. 30 Pinion Mate/Side Gear
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION MATE GEAR
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 267RBI 3 - 159
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(2) Apply Mopar Door Ease stick lubricant to out-
side surface of bearing cup. Install the pinion front
bearing cup with Installer D-146 and Handle C-4171
(Fig. 52) and verify cup is seated.
(3) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on
the lip of pinion seal.
(4) Install a new pinion seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 53).NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the
rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve
proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If ring and pinion
gears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not
require replacement. If the ring and pinion gears are
replaced refer to Adjustments (Pinion Gear Depth )
to select the proper thickness shim.
(5) Place the proper thickness pinion depth shim
on the pinion gear.
(6) Install rear bearing and oil slinger, if equipped
on the pinion gear with Installer C-3095-A and a
press (Fig. 54).
Fig. 51 Pinion Rear Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 52 Pinion Front Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 53 Pinion Seal
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 54 Rear Pinion Bearing
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION BEARING
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 267RBI 3 - 167
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

on bumpy roads and provide more pulling power when
one wheel looses traction. Pulling power is provided
continuously until both wheels loose traction. If both
wheels slip due to unequal traction, Trac-lokyopera-
tion is normal. In extreme cases of differences of trac-
tion, the wheel with the least traction may spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changeswhen the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 171
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the axle shaft flange bolts.
(2) Slide the axle shaft out from the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the gasket contact surface area on the
flange with an appropriate solvent. Install a new
flange gasket and slide the axle shaft into the tube.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 129 N´m (95 ft.
lbs.).
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Remove the axle shaft.
(4) Remove the lock wedge and adjustment nut.
Use Socket DD-1241±JD to remove the adjustment
nut.
(5) Remove the hub assembly. The outer axle bear-
ing will slide out as the hub is being removed.
(6) Remove inner grease seal and discard. Use
Installer 5064 and Handle C-4171 to drive grease
seal and inner axle bearing from the hub.
(7) Remove the bearing cups from the hub bore.
Use a brass drift, or an appropriate removal tool, to
tap out the cups.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean both axle bearings and inte-
rior of the hub with an appropriate cleaning solvent.
(2) Install the bearing cups. Use Installer 8153
and Handle C-4171 to install the bearing cups.
(3) Apply lubricant to surface area of the bearing
cup.
(4) Install the inner axle bearing in the hub.
(5) Install a new bearing grease seal. Use Installer
8152 and Handle C-4171 to install the grease seal.
(6) Inspect the bearing and seal contact surfaces
on the axle tube spindle for burrs and/or roughness.
Remove all the rough contact surfaces from the axle
spindle. Apply a coating of multi-purpose NLGI,
grade 2, EP-type lubricant to the axle.
CAUTION: Use care to prevent the bearing grease
seal from contacting the axle tube spindle threads
during installation. Otherwise, the seal could be
damaged.
(7) Carefully slide the hub onto the axle.
(8) Install the outer axle bearing.(9) Install the hub bearing adjustment nut. Use
Socket DD-1241±JD to install the adjustment nut.
(10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N´m
(120-140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
(11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to
provide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end
play.
(12) Tap the locking wedge into the spindle key-
way and adjustment nut. Try to ensure that the lock-
ing wedge is installed into a new position in the
adjustment nut.
(13) Install the axle shaft.
(14) Install the brake drum.
(15) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion
yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion
yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright posi-
tion to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(5) Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag.
The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque
measurement.
(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.
(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs.) dial-type
torque wrench. Record the torque reading for instal-
lation reference.
(8) Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the
pinion shaft nut and washer.
(9) Remove the yoke with Remover C-452 (Fig. 22).
(10) Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable
pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the seal contact surface in the housing
bore.
(2) Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for
burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.
(3) Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines
and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if neces-
sary.
NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated
with a special sealant. An additional application of
sealant is not required.
(4) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal.
(5) Install new pinion shaft seal with an appropri-
ate Installer.
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 185

DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the lubricant fill hole plug from the
differential housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 26).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 27).
(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side
of the differential housing. Attach dial indicator to
housing pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger
against the opposite side of the housing (Fig. 27) and
zero the indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 27).CAUTION: Do not spread over 0.50 mm (0.020 in). If
the housing is over-spread, it could be distorted or
damaged.
(12) Remove the dial indicator.
(13) Pry the differential case loose from the hous-
ing. To prevent damage, pivot on housing with the
end of the pry bar against spreader (Fig. 28).
(14) Remove the case from housing. Tag bearing
cups to indicate their location.
Fig. 25 Check Pinion Rotation Torque
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 26 Bearing Cap Identification
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 27 Spread Differential Housing
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 187
PINION SEAL (Continued)

DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove roll-pin holding mate shaft in housing.
(2) Remove pinion gear mate shaft (Fig. 29).
(3) Rotate the differential side gears and remove
the pinion mate gears and thrust washers (Fig. 30).(4) Remove the differential side gears and thrust
washers.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install the differential side gears and thrust
washers.
(2) Install the pinion mate gears and thrust wash-
ers.
(3) Install the pinion gear mate shaft.
(4) Align the hole in the pinion gear mate shaft
with the hole in the differential case.
(5) Install and seat the pinion mate shaft roll-pin
in the differential case and mate shaft with a punch
and hammer (Fig. 31). Peen the edge of the roll-pin
hole in the differential case slightly in two places,
180É apart.
(6) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If replacement differential bearings or differ-
ential case are being installed, differential side
bearing shim requirements may change. Refer to
Adjustments (Differential Bearing Preload and Gear
Backlash) procedures to determine proper shim
selection.
Fig. 28 Differential Removal
1 - DIFFERENTIAL
2-PRYBAR
Fig. 29 Pinion Mate Shaft
1 - PINION MATE GEAR
2 - PINION MATE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - DRIFT
Fig. 30 Pinion Mate/Side Gear
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION MATE GEAR
3 - 188 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Apply Mopar Door Ease stick lubricant to out-
side surface of bearing cup. Install the pinion rear
bearing cup with Installer C-4204 and Handle
C-4171 (Fig. 50) and verify cup is seated.
(2) Apply Mopar Door Ease stick lubricant to out-
side surface of bearing cup. Install the pinion front
bearing cup with Installer C-4308 and Handle
C-4171 (Fig. 51) and verify cup is seated.
(3) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on
the lip of pinion seal.
(4) Install new pinion seal with an appropriate
installer 8108 (Fig. 52).
NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the
rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve
proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If ring and pinion
gears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not
require replacement or adjustment. If the ring and
pinion gears are replaced refer to Adjustments to
select the proper thickness shim.(5) Place the proper thickness pinion depth shim
on the pinion gear.
Fig. 49 Rear Pinion Bearing Removal
1 - PULLER
2 - VISE
3 - PINION SHAFT
4 - ADAPTER BLOCKSFig. 50 Pinion Rear Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 51 Pinion Front Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 195
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn or dam-
aged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS/EBD activation.BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables
²Loose/worn wheel bearing
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²Caliper binding on damaged or missing anti-rat-
tle clips or bushings
²Loose caliper mounting
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates
²Mis-assembled components
²Long booster output rod
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Damaged anti-rattle clips
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
5 - 6 BRAKESBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)