light DODGE RAM 2001 Service Workshop Manual

filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
If pressure bleeding equipment will be used, the
front brake metering valve will have to be held open
to bleed the front brakes. The valve stem is located
in the forward end or top of the combination valve.
The stem must either be pressed inward, or held out-
ward slightly. A spring clip tool or helper is needed to
hold the valve stem in position.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Useadapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
Fig. 2 Inverted Flare Tools
5 - 8 BRAKESBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
COMBINATION VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The combination valve contains a pressure differ-
ential valve and switch, metering valve and a rear
brake proportioning valve on 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes. The combi-
nation valve/rear brake proportioning valve are not
repairable and must be replaced as an assembly.The pressure differential switch is connected to the
brake warning lamp.
The metering valve on the 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes is used to
balance brake action between the front disc and rear
drum brakes.
The proportioning valve on the 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes is used to
balance front-rear brake action at high decelerations.
OPERATION
PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
The switch is triggered by movement of the switch
valve. The purpose of the switch is to monitor fluid
pressure in the separate front/rear brake hydraulic
circuits.
A decrease or loss of fluid pressure in either
hydraulic circuit will cause the switch valve to shut-
tle forward or rearward in response to the pressure
differential. Movement of the switch valve will push
the switch plunger upward. This closes the switch
internal contacts completing the electrical circuit to
the warning lamp. The switch valve may remain in
an actuated position until repair restores system
pressures to normal levels.
METERING VALVE (1500 Model)(and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes)
The valve holds-off the initial pressure to the front
disc brakes until the rear brake shoes retracting
springs are overcome. The valve is designed to main-
tain front brake fluid pressure at 241-517 kPa (35-75
psi) until the hold-off limit of 310-689 kPa (100 psi)
is reached. At this point, the metering valve opens
completely permitting full fluid apply pressure to the
front disc brakes. This reduces front brake lining
wear during low deceleration stops.
PROPORTIONING VALVE (1500 Model)(and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes)
The valve allows normal fluid flow during moder-
ate braking. The valve only controls fluid flow during
high decelerations brake stops, when a percentage of
rear weight is transferred to the front wheels.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMBINATION
VALVE
Pressure Differential Switch
(1) Have helper sit in drivers seat to apply brake
pedal and observe red brake warning light.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Connect bleed hose to a rear wheel cylinder
and immerse hose end in container partially filled
with brake fluid.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

(4) Have helper press and hold brake pedal to floor
and observe warning light.
(a) If warning light illuminates, switch is operat-
ing correctly.
(b) If light fails to illuminate, check circuit fuse,
bulb, and wiring. The parking brake switch can be
used to aid in identifying whether or not the brake
light bulb and fuse is functional. Repair or replace
parts as necessary and test differential pressure
switch operation again.
(5) If warning light still does not illuminate,
switch is faulty. Replace combination valve assembly,
bleed brake system and verify proper switch and
valve operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pressure differential switch wire con-
nector (Fig. 4) from the valve.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the valve.
(3) Remove the valve mounting bolt and remove
the valve from the bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the valve on the bracket and install
the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 23
N´m (210 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the brake lines into the valve and
tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the pressure differential switch wire
connector.(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Compress the disc brake caliper using tool
#C4212F.
(4) Remove the caliper pin bolts.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(6) Remove the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper brake hose bolt, washers and
hose (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts.
(5) Tilt the top of the caliper up and remove it
from the adapter.
(6) Remove anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Upper and lower anti-rattle springs are not
interchangeable.
Fig. 4 Pressure
1 - COMBINATION VALVE
2 - BRAKE LINES
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
Fig. 5 REAR CALIPER
1 - Banjo Bolt
2 - Caliper Pin Bolts
5 - 10 BRAKESBR/BE
COMBINATION VALVE (Continued)

(10) Push caliper mounting bolt bushings out of
the boot seals and remove the boot seals from the
caliper (Fig. 11).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 12). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper pistons, piston seals and pis-
ton bores with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Install new piston seals into caliper bores (Fig.
13).
NOTE: Verify seal is fully seated and not twisted.
(3) Lightly lubricate lip of new boot with silicone
grease. Install boot on piston and work boot lip into
the groove at the top of piston.
Fig. 9 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 10 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 11 Bushings And Boot Seals
1 - CALIPER
2 - BUSHING
3 - BOOT SEAL
5 - 12 BRAKESBR/BE
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
The brake booster is operated by a suspended type
brake pedal. The pedal pivots on a shaft located in a
mounting bracket attached to the dash panel. The
pedal shaft is supported by bushings in the pedal
and mounting bracket. The brake pedal is attached
to the booster push rod.
OPERATION
When the pedal is depressed, the primary booster
push rod is depressed which move the booster sec-
ondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove brake lamp switch, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE
LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove switches from tabs on brake lamp
switch bracket.
(4) Remove brake lamp switch bracket bolts and
remove bracket (Fig. 23).
(5) Remove clip and washer attaching booster push
rod and slide push rod off pedal.
(6) Remove E-clip from passenger side of pedal
shaft (Fig. 24). Use flat blade screwdriver to pry clip
out of shaft groove.
(7) Push shaft toward driver side of bracket just
enough to expose opposite E-clip. Then remove E-clip
with flat blade screwdriver.
Fig. 20 Reservoir Removal
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - GROMMETS
Fig. 21 Grommet Removal
1 - MASTER CYLINDER BODY
2 - GROMMETS
Fig. 22 Grommet Installation
1 - WORK NEW GROMMETS INTO PLACE USING FINGER
PRESSURE ONLY
Fig. 23 Brake Lamp Switch Bracket
1 - PEDAL BRACKET
2 - BRAKELIGHT SWITCH BRACKET
3 - BRACKET SCREWS (2)
5 - 16 BRAKESBR/BE
FLUID RESERVOIR (Continued)

(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 24).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLA-
TION).
(10) Install knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
Fig. 24 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 17
PEDAL (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hydraulic booster and tighten the
mounting nuts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the booster push rod, washer and clip
onto the brake pedal.
(3) Install the master cylinder on the mounting
studs. and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 N´m (17
ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake lines to the master cylinder
and tighten to 19-200 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic booster line bracket onto
the master cylinder mounting studs.
(6) Install the master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the hydraulic booster pressure lines to
the bracket and booster.
(8) Tighten the pressure lines to 28 N´m (21 ft.
lbs.).
NOTE: Inspect o-rings on the pressure line fittings
to insure they are in good condition before installa-
tion. Replace o-rings if necessary.
(9) Install the return hose to the booster.
(10) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Fill the power steering pump with fluid,
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
CAUTION: Use only MOPAR power steering fluid or
equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid
and do not overfill.(12) Bleed the hydraulic booster.
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐDISC BRAKE
ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a
lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor
surfaces can be restored by machining with a disc
brake lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor for the following conditions:
²Severely Scored
²Tapered
²Hard Spots
²Cracked
²Below Minimum Thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if below min-
imum thickness, or if machining would reduce thick-
ness below the allowable minimum.
Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on
the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or
cast into the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 29). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger
approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor
edge.
NOTE: Be sure wheel bearing has zero end play
before checking rotor runout.
Maximum allowable rotor runout is 0.127 mm
(0.005 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 30).
Position the micrometer approximately 25.4 mm (1
in.) from the rotor outer circumference for each mea-
surement.
Thickness should notvaryby more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Machine
or replace the rotor if necessary.
Fig. 28 Booster Mounting
1 - STEERING COLUMN
2 - MOUNTING NUTS
3 - BOOSTER PEDAL ROD
4 - MOUNTING NUTS
5 - 20 BRAKESBR/BE
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(6) Position adjuster lever return spring on pivot.
(7) Install adjuster lever.
(8) Attach adjuster cable to adjuster lever. Be sure
cable is properly routed.
(9) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits. The reservoir is the only
serviceable component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 54).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 55).
Fig. 53 Hold-Down Spring And Pin Attachment
1 - SHOE HOLD DOWN SPRING
2 - HOLD DOWN PIN
3 - BACKING PLATE
4 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 29
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove tire and wheel
assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Lift adjuster lever away from adjuster screw.
Then turn screw star wheel until screw is fully
retracted.
(4) Remove brake shoe return springs, adjuster
spring and adjuster screw. Move upper ends of brake
shoes apart to provide removal clearance for wheel
cylinder links.
(5) Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder.
(6) Remove wheel cylinder attaching screws and
remove cylinder from support plate
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove push rods and boots (Fig. 58).
(2) Press pistons, cups and spring and expander
out of cylinder bore.
(3) Remove bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the cylinder and pistons with clean brake
fluid or brake cleaner only. Do not use any other
cleaning agents.
Dry the cylinder and pistons with compressed air.
Do not use rags or shop towels to dry the cylindercomponents. Lint from cloth material will adhere to
the cylinder bores and pistons.
INSPECTION
Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not
impair cylinder operation.
The cylinder bore can be lightly polished but only
with crocus cloth. Replace the cylinder if the bore is
scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to
restore the surface is not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor-
roded. Do attempt to restore the surface by sanding
or polishing.
Discard the old piston cups and the spring and
expander. These parts are not reusable. The original
dust boots may be reused but only if they are in good
condition.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups and spring and expander with clean brake fluid.
(2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then
install first cup in bore and against piston.Be sure
lip of piston cup is facing inward (toward
spring and expander) and flat side is against
piston.
(3) Install spring and expander followed by
remaining piston cup and piston.
(4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert
push rods in boots.
(5) Install cylinder bleed screw.
Fig. 57 Master Cylinder
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - MOUNTING NUT
3 - BRAKE LINES
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 58 Wheel Cylinder Components±Typical
1 - SPRING
2 - CYLINDER
3 - PISTON CLIP
4 - BOOT
5 - PUSH ROD
6 - PISTON
7 - BLEED SCREW
8 - CUP EXPANDERS
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 31
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

The drum forces both brake shoes to move in the
same direction of rotation. Servo action begins with
the primary brake shoe which begins to wedge (or
wrap) itself against the rotating drum surface. This
force is transmitted equally to the secondary brake
shoe through the adjuster screw and anchor pin. The
net result is that each shoe helps the other exert
extra force against the drum. It is servo action that
creates the wedging (or wrap) effect which produces
increased force on the drum braking surface.
All drum brake assemblies are equipped with a self
adjusting mechanism. The components forming the
mechanism consist of the: adjuster screw, adjuster
lever, actuating lever (11 inch brake), lever return
spring and the adjuster lever spring. The adjuster
lever on the 12 inch brake, is also equipped with a
lever and tension spring.
The adjuster mechanism performs two important
functions. First, is in maintaining proper brake shoe
operating clearance. And second, is to maintain brake
pedal height. The mechanism does so, by adjusting
the shoes in small increments to compensate for lin-
ing wear. The adjustment process is continuous
throughout the useful life of the brake lining.
The adjuster components are all connected to the
secondary brake shoes. Actual adjustment only
occurs during reverse brake stops. Secondary brake
shoe movement (during reverse stops), is what acti-
vates the adjuster components.
In operation, secondary shoe movement causes the
adjuster lever spring to exert pull on the lever. This
pivots the lever away from the adjuster screw teeth.
When the stop is completed and the brakes released,
the adjuster lever pivots back to a normal position. It
is during this return movement of the lever when
adjustment occurs. At this point, the lever comes
back into contact with the adjuster screw teeth as it
moves upward. The lever will then rotate the
adjuster screw one or two teeth as needed for adjust-
ment.
NOTE: The adjustment process requires a complete
stop to actually occur. Rolling stops will NOT acti-
vate the adjuster components. In addition, the
adjuster screws are left and right hand parts and
must NOT be interchanged.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE DRUM
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is indicated on the drum outer edge.
Generally, a drum can be machined to a maximum of
1.52 mm (0.060 in.) oversize. Always replace the
drum if machining would cause drum diameter to
exceed the size limit indicated on the drum.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT
Measure drum diameter and runout with an accu-
rate gauge. The most accurate method of measure-
ment involves mounting the drum in a brake lathe
and checking variation and runout with a dial indi-
cator.
Variations in drum diameter should not exceed
0.069 mm (0.0028 in.). Drum runout should not
exceed 0.18 mm (0.007 in.) out of round. Machine the
drum if runout or variation exceed these values.
Replace the drum if machining causes the drum to
exceed the maximum allowable diameter.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE DRUM
MACHINING
The brake drums can be machined on a drum lathe
when necessary. Initial machining cuts should be lim-
ited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as
heavier feed rates can produce taper and surface
variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.038 mm
(0.001 to 0.0015 in.) are recommended and will gen-
erally provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum is securely mounted in the lathe
before machining operations. A damper strap should
always be used around the drum to reduce vibration
and avoid chatter marks.
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum
outer edge.
CAUTION: Replace the drum if machining will cause
the drum to exceed the maximum allowable diame-
ter.
CLEANING
Clean the individual brake components, including
the support plate and wheel cylinder exterior, with a
water dampened cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not
use any other cleaning agents. Remove light rust and
scale from the brake shoe contact pads on the sup-
port plate with fine sandpaper.
INSPECTION
As a general rule, riveted brake shoes should be
replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 in.) of
the rivet heads. Bonded lining should be replaced
when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 33
DRUM (Continued)