jump start terminals DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

DIESEL ENGINE
Diesel engine models feature a clamping type
female battery terminal made of soft lead die cast
onto one end of the battery cable wire. A square
headed pinch-bolt and hex nut are installed at the
open end of the female battery terminal clamp. The
pinch-bolt on the left side battery positive cable
female terminal clamp also has a stud extending
from the head of the bolt. Large eyelet type terminals
are crimped onto the opposite end of the battery
cable wire and then solder-dipped. The battery posi-
tive cable wires have a red insulating jacket to pro-
vide visual identification and feature a larger female
battery terminal clamp to allow connection to the
larger battery positive terminal post. The battery
negative cable wires have a black insulating jacket
and a smaller female battery terminal clamp.
OPERATION
The battery cables connect the battery terminal
posts to the vehicle electrical system. These cables
also provide a return path for electrical current gen-
erated by the charging system for restoring the volt-
age potential of the battery. The female battery
terminal clamps on the ends of the battery cable
wires provide a strong and reliable connection of the
battery cable to the battery terminal posts. The ter-
minal pinch bolts allow the female terminal clamps
to be tightened around the male terminal posts on
the top of the battery. The eyelet terminals secured
to the ends of the battery cable wires opposite the
female battery terminal clamps provide secure and
reliable connection of the battery to the vehicle elec-
trical system.
GASOLINE ENGINE
The battery positive cable terminal clamp is
crimped onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an
eyelet terminal that connects the battery positive
cable to the B(+) terminal stud of the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC), and the other wire has an eye-
let terminal that connects the battery positive cable
to the B(+) terminal stud of the engine starter motor
solenoid. The battery negative cable terminal clamp
is also crimped onto the ends of two wires. One wire
has an eyelet terminal that connects the battery neg-
ative cable to the vehicle powertrain through a stud
on the front of the left engine cylinder head. The
other wire has an eyelet terminal that connects the
battery negative cable to the vehicle body through a
ground screw on the left front fender inner shield,
just ahead of the battery. An additional ground wire
with two eyelet terminals is used to provide ground
to the vehicle frame. One eyelet terminal of this
ground wire is installed under the head of the bat-
tery negative cable terminal clamp pinch-bolt, andthe other eyelet terminal is secured with a ground
screw to the outer surface of the left frame rail,
below the battery.
DIESEL ENGINE
The left battery positive cable terminal clamp is
die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an
eyelet terminal that connects the left battery positive
cable to the B(+) terminal stud of the Power Distri-
bution Center (PDC), and the other wire has an eye-
let terminal that connects the left battery positive
cable to the B(+) terminal stud of the engine starter
motor solenoid. The right battery positive cable ter-
minal clamp is die cast onto the end of a single wire.
The eyelet terminal on the other end of the right bat-
tery positive cable is connected to the stud on the
pinch-bolt of the left battery positive cable terminal
clamp. This stud also provides a connection point for
the eyelet terminals from the fuel heater relay and
intake air heater relay jumper harness take outs. All
of these eyelet terminals are secured to the left bat-
tery positive cable terminal clamp pinch-bolt stud
with a single hex nut.
The left battery negative cable terminal clamp is
die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire has an
eyelet terminal that connects the left battery nega-
tive cable to the vehicle powertrain through a ground
screw on the left side of the engine block, below the
power steering and vacuum pumps. The other wire
has an eyelet terminal that connects the left battery
negative cable to the vehicle body through a ground
screw on the left front fender inner shield, just ahead
of the left battery. An additional ground wire with
two eyelet terminals is used to provide ground to the
vehicle frame. One eyelet terminal of this ground
wire is installed under the nut of the left battery
negative cable terminal clamp pinch-bolt, and the
other eyelet terminal is secured with a ground screw
to the outer surface of the left frame rail, below the
left battery. The right battery negative cable terminal
is also die cast onto the ends of two wires. One wire
has an eyelet terminal that connects the right bat-
tery negative cable to the vehicle powertrain through
a ground screw on the right side of the engine block,
just forward of the right engine mount. The other
wire has an eyelet terminal that connects the right
battery negative cable to the vehicle body through a
ground screw on the right front fender inner shield,
just behind the right battery.
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING - BATTERY CABLES
A voltage drop test will determine if there is exces-
sive resistance in the battery cable terminal connec-
tions or the battery cables. If excessive resistance is
found in the battery cable connections, the connec-
tion point should be disassembled, cleaned of all cor-
8F - 20 BATTERY SYSTEMBR/BE
BATTERY CABLE (Continued)

With the engine running, remove spark plug cable
from spark plug (one at a time) and hold next to a
good engine ground. If the cable and spark plug are
in good condition, the engine rpm should drop and
the engine will run poorly. If engine rpm does not
drop, the cable and/or spark plug may not be operat-
ing properly and should be replaced. Also check
engine cylinder compression.
With the engine not running, connect one end of a
test probe to a good ground. Start the engine and run
the other end of the test probe along the entire
length of all spark plug cables. If cables are cracked
or punctured, there will be a noticeable spark jump
from the damaged area to the test probe. The cable
running from the ignition coil to the distributor cap
can be checked in the same manner. Cracked, dam-
aged or faulty cables should be replaced with resis-
tance type cable. This can be identified by the words
ELECTRONIC SUPPRESSION printed on the cable
jacket.
Use an ohmmeter to test for open circuits, exces-
sive resistance or loose terminals. If equipped,
remove the distributor cap from the distributor.Do
not remove cables from cap.Remove cable from
spark plug. Connect ohmmeter to spark plug termi-
nal end of cable and to corresponding electrode in
distributor cap. Resistance should be 250 to 1000
Ohms per inch of cable. If not, remove cable from dis-
tributor cap tower and connect ohmmeter to the ter-
minal ends of cable. If resistance is not within
specifications as found in the SPARK PLUG CABLE
RESISTANCE chart, replace the cable. Test all spark
plug cables in this manner.
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE
MINIMUM MAXIMUM
250 Ohms Per Inch 1000 Ohms Per Inch
3000 Ohms Per Foot 12,000 Ohms Per Foot
To test ignition coil-to-distributor cap cable, do not
remove the cable from the cap. Connect ohmmeter to
rotor button (center contact) of distributor cap and
terminal at ignition coil end of cable. If resistance is
not within specifications as found in the Spark Plug
Cable Resistance chart, remove the cable from the
distributor cap. Connect the ohmmeter to the termi-
nal ends of the cable. If resistance is not within spec-
ifications as found in the Spark Plug Cable
Resistance chart, replace the cable. Inspect the igni-
tion coil tower for cracks, burns or corrosion.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When disconnecting a high voltage cable
from a spark plug or from the distributor cap, twist
the rubber boot slightly (1/2 turn) to break it loose
(Fig. 38). Grasp the boot (not the cable) and pull it
off with a steady, even force.
INSTALLATION
Install cables into the proper engine cylinder firing
order (Fig. 39), (Fig. 40) or (Fig. 41).
When replacing the spark plug and coil cables,
route the cables correctly and secure in the proper
retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can
cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise. It could
also cause cross ignition of the plugs or short circuit
the cables to ground.
Fig. 37 Heat ShieldsÐ3.9L/5.2L/5.9L Engines
1 - AIR GAP
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT HEAT SHIELD
Fig. 38 Cable Removal
1 - SPARK PLUG CABLE AND BOOT
2 - SPARK PLUG BOOT PULLER
3 - TWIST AND PULL
4 - SPARK PLUG
8I - 20 IGNITION CONTROLBR/BE
SPARK PLUG CABLE (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Unplug the wire harness connector from the a/c
high pressure switch, which is mounted to a fitting
on the discharge line between the compressor and
the condenser inlet.
(3) Unscrew the a/c high pressure switch from the
discharge line fitting.
(4) Remove the a/c high pressure switch from the
vehicle.
(5) Remove the O-ring seal from the discharge line
fitting and discard.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate a new O-ring seal with clean refrig-
erant oil and install it on the discharge line fitting.
Use only the specified O-rings as they are made of a
special material for the R-134a system. Use only
refrigerant oil of the type recommended for the com-
pressor in the vehicle. (Refer to 24 - HEATING &
AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGERANT
OIL - DESCRIPTION)
(2) Install and tighten the high pressure cut-off
switch on the discharge line fitting. The switch
should be hand-tightened onto the discharge line fit-
ting.
(3) Plug the wire harness connector into the high
pressure cut-off switch.
(4) Connect the battery negative cable.
A/C LOW PRESSURE SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The a/c low pressure switch is located on the top of
the accumulator. The switch is screwed onto an accu-
mulator fitting that contains a Schrader-type valve,
which allows the switch to be serviced without dis-
charging the refrigerant system. The accumulator fit-
ting is equipped with an O-ring to seal the switch
connection.
OPERATION
The a/c low pressure switch is connected in series
electrically with the a/c high pressure switch and the
a/c heater control, between ground and the Power-
train Control Module (PCM). The switch contacts
open and close causing the PCM to turn the compres-
sor clutch on and off. This regulates the refrigerant
system pressure and controls evaporator tempera-
ture. Controlling evaporator temperature prevents
condensate water on the evaporator fins from freez-
ing and obstructing air conditioning system air flow.
The a/c low pressure switch contacts are open
when the suction pressure is about 152-165 kPa(22-24 psi) or lower. The switch contacts will close
when the suction pressure rises to about 255-296 kPa
(37-43 psi) or above. Lower ambient temperatures,
below about -1É C (30É F), will also cause the switch
contacts to open. This is due to the pressure/temper-
ature relationship of the refrigerant in the system.
The a/c low pressure switch is a factory-calibrated
unit. It cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if faulty
or damaged, it must be replaced.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C LOW
PRESSURE SWITCH
Before performing diagnosis of the a/c low pressure
switch, be certain that the switch is properly
installed on the accumulator fitting. If the switch is
too loose it may not open the Schrader-type valve in
the accumulator fitting, which will prevent the
switch from correctly monitoring the refrigerant sys-
tem pressure. Also verify that the refrigerant system
has the correct refrigerant charge. (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING - A/C PERFORMANCE)
Remember that lower ambient temperatures, below
about -1É C (30É F), during cold weather will open the
switch contacts and prevent compressor operation
due to the pressure/temperature relationship of the
refrigerant. For circuit descriptions and diagrams,
(Refer to Appropriate Wiring Information).
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Unplug the a/c low pressure switch wire har-
ness connector from the switch on the accumulator
fitting.
(3) Install a jumper wire between the two cavities
of the a/c low pressure switch wire harness connector.
(4) Connect a manifold gauge set to the refrigerant
system service ports. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM SERVICE
EQUIPMENT)
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
(6) Place the a/c heater mode control switch knob
in any A/C position and start the engine.
(7) Check for continuity between the two terminals
of the low pressure cycling clutch switch. There
should be continuity with a suction pressure reading
of 296 kPa (43 psi) or above, and no continuity with a
suction pressure reading of 172 kPa (25 psi) or below.
If OK, test and repair the A/C switch sense circuit as
required. If not OK, replace the faulty switch.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
BR/BECONTROLS 24 - 21
A/C HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH (Continued)