suspension DODGE RAM 2002 Service Owner's Manual

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................25
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................26
SPECIAL TOOLS
SUSPENSION-REAR...................27
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................27INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................27
SPRING
REMOVAL.............................27
INSTALLATION.........................28
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
BR/BEREAR 2 - 25

SPECIAL TOOLS
SUSPENSION-REAR
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the spring from the vehicle.
(2) Position the spring eye in a press.
(3) Press the bushing out with an appropriate size
driver.
INSTALLATION
(1) Press new bushing into the spring eye with an
appropriate size driver. The bushing should be cen-
tered in the spring eye.
(2) Install the spring on the vehicle.
SHOCK
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and support axle.
(2) Remove the bolt and flag nut from the frame
crossmember bracket (Fig. 1).
(3) Remove the bolt and nut from the axle bracket.
(4) Remove the rear shock absorber from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the shock absorber in the brackets.
(2) Install the bolts through the brackets and the
shock. Install the flag nut on the top bolt and nut on
lower bolt.
(3) Tighten the upper and lower bolt/nuts Tighten
to 136 N.m (100 ft. lbs.)
(4) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
SPRING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle and support the axle to
remove all weight from the springs.
(2) Remove the nuts and spring clamp bolts that
attach the spring to the axle (Fig. 2) and (Fig. 3)and
(Fig. 4).
(3) Remove the nuts and bolts from the spring
front and rear shackle eyes.Note: To remove front
eye bolt on left side spring fuel tank must be
removed, (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/FUEL TANK - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the spring from the vehicle.
(5) Remove the shackle from the spring.
Puller C-3894-A
Fig. 1 Shock Absorber
1 - FLAG NUT
2 - AXLE
3 - SHOCK
BR/BEREAR 2 - 27
REAR (Continued)

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheels and tires.
(3) Remove brake calipers and rotors. Refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensors, if equipped.
Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(5) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(6) Disconnect vacuum hose and electrical connec-
tor at disconnect housing.
(7) Remove front propeller shaft.
(8) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle
brackets.
(9) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(10) Disconnect track bar from the axle bracket.
(11) Disconnect tie rod and drag link from the
steering knuckles.
(12) Position suitable lifting device under the axle
assembly.(13) Secure axle to lifting device.
(14) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
(15) Disconnect upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle bracket.
(16) Lower the axle. The coil springs will drop
with the axle.
(17) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the weight of the
vehicle on the suspension, at normal height. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur. Rubber bushings must never
be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a suitable lifting device.
3 - 18 FRONT AXLE - 248FBIBR/BE
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

(2) Secure axle to lifting device.
(3) Position the axle under the vehicle.
(4) Install springs, retainer clip and bolts.
(5) Raise axle and align it with the spring pads.
(6) Position upper and lower suspension arms in
the axle brackets. Install bolts, nuts and align the
suspension alignment cams to the reference marks.
Do not tighten at this time.
(7) Connect track bar to the axle bracket and
install the bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
(8) Install shock absorber and tighten bolts to 121
N´m (89 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install stabilizer bar link to the axle bracket.
Tighten the nut to 37 N´m (27 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install drag link and tie rod to the steering
knuckles and tighten the nuts to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install ABS wheel speed sensors, if equipped.
Refer to 5 Brakes for procedures.
(12) Install rotors and brake calipers, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(13) Connect the vent hose to the tube fitting.
(14) Connect vacuum hose and electrical connector
to disconnect housing.
(15) Install front propeller shaft.
(16) Check and add differential lubricant, if neces-
sary. Refer to Lubricant Specifications for lubricant
requirements.
(17) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(18) Remove supports and lower the vehicle.
(19) Tighten upper suspension arm nuts at axle to
121 N´m (89 ft. lbs.). Tighten upper suspension arm
nuts at frame to 84 N´m (62 ft. lbs.).
(20) Tighten lower suspension arm nuts at axle to
84 N´m (62 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower suspension
arm nuts at frame to 119 N´m (88 ft. lbs.).
(21) Tighten track bar bolt at the axle bracket to
176 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(22) Check front wheel alignment.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched sets
only. The identifying numbers for the ring and pinion
gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig. 3). A
plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is etched
into the face of the pinion gear. This number is the
amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies
from the standard depth setting of a pinion etched with
a (0). The standard setting from the center line of the
ring gear to the back face of the pinion is 127 mm (5.00
in.). The standard depth provides the best gear tooth
contact pattern. Refer to Backlash and Contact Pattern
in this section for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim/slinger. The shims are
placed between the rear pinion bearing and the pin-
ion gear head (Fig. 4).
Fig. 3 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 4 SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM/SLINGER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 19
FRONT AXLE - 248FBI (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn or dam-
aged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS/EBD activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables
²Loose/worn wheel bearing
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²Caliper binding on damaged or missing anti-rat-
tle clips or bushings
²Loose caliper mounting
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates
²Mis-assembled components²Long booster output rod
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Damaged anti-rattle clips
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

ELECTRICAL/VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY - GEN-
ERAL INFORMATION) for more information on the
VTSS. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/POWER LOCKS -
GENERAL INFORMATION) for more information on
the RKE system.
HORN
DESCRIPTION
The standard single, low-note, electromagnetic dia-
phragm-type horn is secured with a bracket to the
right front fender wheel house extension in the
engine compartment. The high-note horn for the
optional dual-note horn system is connected in paral-
lel with and secured with a bracket just forward of
the low-note horn. Each horn is grounded through its
wire harness connector and circuit to a ground splice
joint connector, and receives battery feed through the
closed contacts of the horn relay.
The horns cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if
faulty or damaged, they must be individually
replaced.
OPERATION
Within the two halves of the molded plastic horn
housing are a flexible diaphragm, a plunger, an elec-
tromagnetic coil and a set of contact points. The dia-
phragm is secured in suspension around its
perimeter by the mating surfaces of the horn hous-
ing. The plunger is secured to the center of the dia-
phragm and extends into the center of the
electromagnet. The contact points control the current
flow through the electromagnet.
When the horn is energized, electrical current
flows through the closed contact points to the electro-
magnet. The resulting electromagnetic field draws
the plunger and diaphragm toward it until that
movement mechanically opens the contact points.
When the contact points open, the electromagnetic
field collapses allowing the plunger and diaphragm to
return to their relaxed positions and closing the con-
tact points again. This cycle continues repeating at a
very rapid rate producing the vibration and move-
ment of air that creates the sound that is directed
through the horn outlet.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appro-
priate wiring information. The wiring information
includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and connector
repair procedures, details of wire harness routing
and retention, connector pin-out information and
location views for the various wire harness connec-
tors, splices and grounds.(1) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s). Measure the resis-
tance between the ground circuit cavity of the horn(s)
wire harness connector(s) and a good ground. There
should be no measurable resistance. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the horn relay out-
put circuit cavity of the horn(s) wire harness connec-
tor(s). There should be zero volts. If OK, go to Step 3.
If not OK, repair the shorted horn relay output cir-
cuit or replace the faulty horn relay as required.
(3) Depress the horn switch. There should now be
battery voltage at the horn relay output circuit cavity
of the horn(s) wire harness connector(s). If OK,
replace the faulty horn(s). If not OK, repair the open
horn relay output circuit to the horn relay as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s) (Fig. 1) .
(3) Remove the screw that secures the horn and
mounting bracket unit(s) to the right fender wheel
house front extension.
(4) Remove the horn and mounting bracket unit(s)
from the right fender wheel house front extension.
Fig. 1 Horns Remove/Install
1 - WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
2 - SCREWS
3 - INNER FENDER
4 - LOW NOTE HORN
5 - WIRE HARNESS CONNECTOR
6 - WHEELHOUSE EXTENSION
7 - HIGH NOTE HORN
8H - 2 HORNBR/BE
HORN (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, install headlamp bulb(s).
(2) Connect headlamp bulb wire connector(s).
(3) Position headlamp in radiator closure panel.
(4) From behind front bumper, install the screws
attaching bottom of headlamp module to radiator clo-
sure panel.
(5) From behind the bumper, tighten the bumper
mounting nuts.
(6) Install the screws attaching top of headlamp
module to radiator closure panel.
(7) Install park and turn signal lamp.
(8) Install push-in fastener attaching seal to radi-
ator closure panel.
(9) Connect the battery negative cable.
ADJUSTMENTS
LAMP ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION
(1) Position vehicle on a level surface perpendicu-
lar to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 ft) away from front
of headlamp lens (Fig. 20).(2) If necessary, tape a line on the floor 7.62
meters (25 ft) away from and parallel to the wall.
(3) Up 1.27 meters (5 feet) from the floor, tape a
line on the wall at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from rear of vehi-
cle forward) to verify accuracy of the line placement.
(4) Rock vehicle side-to-side three times to allow
suspension to stabilize.
(5) Jounce front suspension three times by pushing
downward on front bumper and releasing.
(6) Measure the distance from the center of head-
lamp lens to the floor. Transfer measurement to the
alignment screen (with tape). Use this line for
up/down adjustment reference.
(7) Measure distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer measurements to screen (with tape) to each
side of vehicle centerline. Use these lines for left/
right adjustment reference.
Fig. 20 Lamp Alignment ScreenÐTypical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE
2 - CENTER OF HEADLAMP3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FT.)
4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
BR/BELAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 21
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

SYMBOLS
International symbols are used throughout the wir-
ing diagrams. These symbols are consistent with
those being used around the world (Fig. 3).
TERMINOLOGY
This is a list of terms and definitions used in the
wiring diagrams.
LHD .................Left Hand Drive Vehicles
RHD................Right Hand Drive Vehicles
ATX . . Automatic Transmissions-Front Wheel Drive
MTX....Manual Transmissions-Front Wheel Drive
AT ....Automatic Transmissions-Rear Wheel Drive
MT .....Manual Transmissions-Rear Wheel Drive
SOHC...........Single Over Head Cam Engine
DOHC..........Double Over Head Cam Engine
Built-Up-Export........ Vehicles Built For Sale In
Markets Other Than North America
Except-Built-Up-Export . . Vehicles Built For Sale In
North America
DESCRIPTION - CIRCUIT INFORMATION
Each wire shown in the diagrams contains a code
which identifies the main circuit, part of the main
circuit, gage of wire, and color (Fig. 4).
WIRE COLOR CODE CHART
COLOR CODE COLOR
BL BLUE
BK BLACK
BR BROWN
DB DARK BLUE
DG DARK GREEN
GY GRAY
LB LIGHT BLUE
LG LIGHT GREEN
OR ORANGE
PK PINK
RD RED
TN TAN
VT VIOLET
WT WHITE
YL YELLOW
* WITH TRACER
DESCRIPTION - CIRCUIT FUNCTIONS
All circuits in the diagrams use an alpha/numeric
code to identify the wire and it's function. To identify
which circuit code applies to a system, refer to the
Circuit Identification Code Chart. This chart shows
the main circuits only and does not show the second-
ary codes that may apply to some models.
CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION CODE CHART
CIRCUIT FUNCTION
A BATTERY FEED
B BRAKE CONTROLS
C CLIMATE CONTROLS
D DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUITS
E DIMMING ILLUMINATION
CIRCUITS
F FUSED CIRCUITS
G MONITORING CIRCUITS
(GAUGES)
H OPEN
I NOT USED
J OPEN
K POWERTRAIN CONTROL
MODULE
L EXTERIOR LIGHTING
M INTERIOR LIGHTING
N NOT USED
O NOT USED
P POWER OPTION (BATTERY
FEED)
Q POWER OPTIONS (IGNITION
FEED)
R PASSIVE RESTRAINT
S SUSPENSION/STEERING
T TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
TRANSFER CASE
U OPEN
V SPEED CONTROL, WIPER/
WASHER
W OPEN
X AUDIO SYSTEMS
Y OPEN
Z GROUNDS
8W - 01 - 4 8W-01 WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATIONBR/BE
WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION (Continued)