tires DODGE RAM 2002 Service Owner's Manual

OPERATION
STANDARD DIFFERENTIAL
The axle receives power from the transmission/
transfer case through the rear propeller shaft. The
rear propeller shaft is connected to the pinion gear
which rotates the differential through the gear mesh
with the ring gear bolted to the differential case. The
engine power is transmitted to the axle shafts
through the pinion mate and side gears. The side
gears are splined to the axle shafts.
During straight-ahead driving, the differential pin-
ion gears do not rotate on the pinion mate shaft. This
occurs because input torque applied to the gears is
divided and distributed equally between the two side
gears. As a result, the pinion gears revolve with the
pinion mate shaft but do not rotate around it (Fig. 1).
When turning corners, the outside wheel must travel
a greater distance than the inside wheel to complete a
turn. The difference must be compensated for to prevent
the tires from scuffing and skidding through turns. To
accomplish this, the differential allows the axle shafts
to turn at unequal speeds (Fig. 2). In this instance, the
input torque applied to the pinion gears is not divided
equally. The pinion gears now rotate around the pinion
mate shaft in opposite directions. This allows the side
gear and axle shaft attached to the outside wheel to
rotate at a faster speed.
TRAC-LOKŸ DIFFERENTIAL
The Trac-lokŸ clutches are engaged by two concur-
rent forces. The first being the preload force exerted
through Belleville spring washers within the clutch
packs. The second is the separating forces generatedby the side gears as torque is applied through the
ring gear (Fig. 3).
The Trac-lokŸ design provides the differential
action needed for turning corners and for driving
straight ahead during periods of unequal traction.
When one wheel looses traction, the clutch packs
transfer additional torque to the wheel having the
most traction. Trac-lokŸ differentials resist wheel
spin on bumpy roads and provide more pulling power
when one wheel looses traction. Pulling power is pro-
vided continuously until both wheels loose traction. If
both wheels slip due to unequal traction, Trac-lokŸ
operation is normal. In extreme cases of differences
of traction, the wheel with the least traction may
spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
Fig. 1 STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING
1 - IN STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING EACH WHEEL ROTATES AT
100% OF CASE SPEED
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
Fig. 2 ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
3 - 108 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the
axle.
(3) Secure axle to device.
(4) Remove the wheels and tires.
(5) Remove the RWAL sensor from the differential
housing, if necessary.
(6) Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction
block.
(7) Disconnect the parking brake cables and cable
brackets.
(8)
Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft tube.
(9) Mark the propeller shaft and companion flange
for installation alignment reference.
(10) Remove propeller shaft.
(11) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle.
(12)
Remove the spring clamps and spring brackets.
(13) Separate the axle from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Raise the axle with lifting device and align to
the leaf spring centering bolts.
(2) Install the spring clamps and spring brackets.
(3) Install the shock absorbers.
(4) Install the RWAL sensor to the differential
housing, if necessary
(5) Install the parking brake cables and cable
brackets.
(6)
Install the brake hose to the axle junction block.
(7) Install axle vent hose.
(8) Install the propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.
(9) Install the wheels and tires.
(10) Add gear lubricant, if necessary. Refer to
Specifications for lubricant requirements.
(11) Remove lifting device from axle and lower the
vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. The identifying numbers for the ring and
pinion gear are etched into the face of each gear (Fig.
4). A plus (+) number, minus (±) number or zero (0) is
etched into the face of the pinion gear. This number
is the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth
varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion
etched with a (0). The standard setting from the cen-
ter line of the ring gear to the back face of the pinion
is 147.625 mm (5.812 in.). The standard depth pro-
vides the best teeth contact pattern. Refer to Back-
lash and Contact Pattern Analysis Paragraph in this
section for additional information.
Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with select shims. The shims are placed
under the inner pinion bearing cone (Fig. 5).If a new gear set is being installed, note the depth
variance etched into both the original and replace-
ment pinion gear. Add or subtract the thickness of
the original depth shims to compensate for the differ-
ence in the depth variances. Refer to the Depth Vari-
ance charts.
Note where Old and New Pinion Marking columns
intersect. Intersecting figure represents plus or
minus amount needed.
Note the etched number on the face of the drive pin-
ion gear (±1, ±2, 0, +1, +2, etc.). The numbers represent
Fig. 4 PINION GEAR ID NUMBERS
1 - PRODUCTION NUMBERS
2 - PINION GEAR DEPTH VARIANCE
3 - GEAR MATCHING NUMBER
Fig. 5 SHIM LOCATIONS
1 - PINION BEARING PRELOAD SHIM
2 - DIFFERENTIAL BEARING SHIM
3 - PINION GEAR DEPTH SHIM
3 - 112 REAR AXLE - 286RBIBR/BE
REAR AXLE - 286RBI (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn or dam-
aged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS/EBD activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables
²Loose/worn wheel bearing
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²Caliper binding on damaged or missing anti-rat-
tle clips or bushings
²Loose caliper mounting
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates
²Mis-assembled components²Long booster output rod
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Damaged anti-rattle clips
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
5 - 6 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(10) Install mounting bolt bushings into the boot
seals and insure seal lip is engaged into the bushing
grooves at either end of the bushing.
(11) Install caliper bleed screw.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - REAR
NOTE: Install a new copper washers on the banjo
bolt when installing
(1) Install the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 18).(2) Install the banjo bolt with new copper washers
to the caliper.tighten to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.)
(3) Install the caliper pin bolts. tighten to 33 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.)
(4) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) Clean the caliper mounting adapter and the
anti-rattle springs and grease with Mopar brake
grease or Dow Corningt807 grease only.
(2) Install the anti-rattle springs.
(3) Tilt the bottom of the caliper over the rotor and
under the adapter. Then push the top of the caliper
down onto the adapter.
(4) Install the caliper mounting bolts and tighten
to 33 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the brake hose to caliper withnew seal
washersand tighten fitting bolt to 24 N´m (18 ft.
lbs.).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(6) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
Fig. 16 Caliper Piston Installation
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
3 - PISTON
Fig. 17 Seating Dust Boot
1 - HANDLE
2 - CALIPER
3 - DUST BOOT INSTALLER
Fig. 18 REAR CALIPER INSTALL
1 - ROTOR
2 - BRAKE SHOES
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

REMOVAL - FRONT ± 2500
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper from the steering knuckle,
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL) and remove
caliper adapter assembly (Fig. 34).
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
adapter assembly.
(4) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing wheel
studs.
REMOVAL - FRONT - 3500
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the hub extension mounting nuts and
remove the extension from the rotor if equipped.
(4) Remove the brake caliper adapter assembly.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rotor assembly.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Install the hub to the rotor. Tighten the bolts to
128 N´m (95 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 35).
(2) Install the hub and rotor assembly.
(3) Install the rear axle shaft to the housing with
dual wheels, (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/REAR AXLE - 286RBI/AXLE SHAFTS -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the caliper adapter bolts.
(5) Install the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION). (Fig. 36).
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 34 Caliper Adapter Assembly
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ROTOR
Fig. 35 ROTOR TO HUB
1 - Hub Bolts
2 - Socket
Fig. 36 ROTOR INSTALLED
5 - 22 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
ROTORS (Continued)

INSTALLATION - FRONT ± 2500
(1) On models with all-wheel antilock system
(ABS), check condition of tone wheel on hub/bearing.
If teeth on wheel are damaged, hub/bearing assembly
will have to be replaced (tone wheel is not serviced
separately).
(2) Install rotor onto the hub/bearing wheel studs.
(3) Install the caliper adapter assembly,(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and tighten
adapter bolts to:
²LD 1500: 176 N´m (130 ft lbs.)
²HD 2500: 285 N´m (210 ft lbs.)
(4) Install the wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE) and lower vehicle.
(5) Apply brakes several times to seat brake shoes.
Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving vehicle.
INSTALLATION - FRONT - 3500
(1) Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.
(2) Install the brake caliper adapter assembly
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION) and
tighten adapter bolts to 285 N´m (210 ft. lbs).
(3) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(4) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Apply brakes several times to seat brake shoes
and caliper piston. Do not move vehicle until firm
brake pedal is obtained.
BRAKE PADS/SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Compress the caliper.
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts
NOTE: Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
assembly.
(5) Remove the caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- REMOVAL) and then tilt the top up and off the cal-
iper adapter (Fig. 37).
(6) Remove inboard brake shoe from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 38).
(7) Remove outboard brake shoe from caliper
adapter (Fig. 39).(8) Remove the anti-rattle springs from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 40) and (Fig. 41).
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
Fig. 37 ROTOR / PADS/ CALIPER
1 - ROTOR
2 - BRAKE SHOES
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
Fig. 38 Inboard Brake Shoe
1 - INBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
ROTORS (Continued)

(7) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION) (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAU-
LIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis-
tons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
(10) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
INSTALLATION - FRONT
(1) Bottom pistons in caliper bore with C-clamp.
Place an old brake shoe between a C-clamp and cal-
iper piston.
(2) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(3) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(4) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(5) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
(6) Install outboard brake shoe in adapter.
(7) Tilt the bottom of the caliper over rotor and
under adapter. Then push the top of the caliper down
onto the adapter.
(8) Install caliper, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(9) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
vehicle, (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis-
tons and brake shoes and obtain firm pedal.
(11) Top off master cylinder fluid level.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
A two-piece master cylinder is used on all models.
The cylinder body containing the primary and sec-
ondary pistons is made of aluminum. The removable
fluid reservoir is made of nylon reinforced with glass
fiber. The reservoir stores reserve brake fluid for the
hydraulic brake circuits. The reservoir is the only
serviceable component.
The fluid compartments of the nylon reservoir are
interconnected to permit fluid level equalization.
However, the equalization feature does not affect cir-
cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 47).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(7) Install the drum in hat assembly and verify
that the rotor rotates freely without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 56).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and unsnap the plas-tic retainer clip that secures the park brake release
linkage rod to the park brake mechanism on the left
cowl side inner panel.
(3) Disengage the park brake release linkage rod
end from the park brake mechanism.
(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and unsnap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle.
(5) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to disengage the park brake release linkage
rod end from the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.
(6) Lift the park brake release handle to access the
handle mounting bracket.
(7) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry each of the park brake
release handle mounting bracket latch tabs away
from the retaining notches in the instrument panel
receptacle (Fig. 57) .
(8) With both of the park brake release handle
mounting bracket latches released, slide the handle
and bracket assembly down and out of the instru-
ment panel receptacle.
Fig. 56 Adjustment Mark
1 - TENSIONER CABLE BRACKET
2 - TENSIONER
3 - CABLE CONNECTOR
4 - 6.35mm
(1/4 IN.)
5 - ADJUSTER NUTFig. 57 Park Brake Release Handle Remove/Install
1 - CLIP
2 - ROD
3 - MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - TRIM STICK
5 - LATCH TABS
6 - PARK BRAKE RELEASE HANDLE
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
CABLE TENSIONER (Continued)