wheel bolts DODGE RAM 2002 Service Owner's Guide

REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4X2
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
from under the hood. Remove sensor wire from the
frame, brake hose and steering knuckle.
(3) Remove sensor bolt from the backside of the
steering knuckle and remove the sensor (Fig. 4).
REMOVAL - 4X4
(1) Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
from under the hood.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the sensor wire from the clips on the
brake hose.
(5) Remove the brake caliper. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the disc brake rotor and adapter.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(7) Bend the tab on the dust shield upwards to
allow access to the bolt.
(8) Remove the bolt attaching the sensor to the
hub bearing. (Fig. 5)
(9) Remove the sensor wire.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4X2
(1) Position sensor in knuckle.
(2) Install and tighten sensor bolt to 23 N´m (17 ft.
lbs.).Use original or replacement sensor bolt
only. The bolt is special and must not be substi-
tuted.
(3) Install sensor wire to the steering knuckle,
brake hose and frame. Connect the wheel speed sen-
sor wire under the hood.
(4) Check sensor wire routing. Be sure wire is
clear of all chassis components and is not twisted or
kinked at any spot.
(5) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(6) Verify sensor operation with scan tool.
INSTALLATION - 4X4
NOTE: Use original or replacement sensor bolts
only. The bolts are special and must not be substi-
tuted.
(1) Install the sensor in the hub bearing and
tighten the bolt to 14 N´m (11 ft. lbs.). (Fig. 5)
(2) Bend the dust shield tab back downwards into
position.
(3) Install the disc brake rotor and caliper adapter.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTORS - REMOVAL).
(4) Install the brake caliper. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALI-
PERS - REMOVAL).
(5) Route the wire into the clips.
Fig. 4 Wheel Speed Sensor - 4x2
1 - KNUCKLE
2 - SENSOR
Fig. 5 WHEEL SPEED SENSOR - 4X4
1 - HUB/BEARING
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
BR/BEBRAKES - ABS 5 - 39

During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are
opened and closed as needed. The valves are not
static. They are cycled rapidly and continuously to
modulate pressure and control wheel slip and decel-
eration.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure
modulation occurs in three stages, pressure decrease,
pressure hold, and pressure increase. The valves are
all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The inlet valve is closed and the outlet valve is
opened during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed
sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or
more wheels. At this point, the CAB closes the inlet
to prevent the driver from further increasing the
brake pressure and locking the brakes. The CAB
then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle. Fluid apply pressure in the control chan-
nel is maintained at a constant rate. The CAB main-
tains the hold cycle until sensor inputs indicate a
pressure change is necessary.
PRESSURE INCREASE
The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is
closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pres-
sure increase cycle is used to counteract unequal
wheel speeds. This cycle controls re-application of
fluid apply pressure due to changing road surfaces or
wheel speed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Push the harness connector locks to release the
locks, then remove the connectors from the CAB.
(3) Disconnect brake lines from HCU (Fig. 7).
(4) Remove the two mounting bolts on either side
of the assembly which attach the assembly to the
mounting bracket.
(5) Tilt the assembly upward were the brake lines
attach and remove the assembly from the mounting
bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the assembly into the mounting bracket.
(2) Install the mounting bolts and tighten to 12
N´m (102 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the CAB harnesses.
(4) Connect the brake lines to the HCU. Tighten
brake line fittings to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect battery.
(6) Bleed brake system, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 7 Brake Lines
1 - BRAKE LINES
2 - HCU
BR/BEBRAKES - ABS 5 - 41
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT) (Continued)

OPERATION
When the clutch pedal is depressed, it actuates the
clutch master cylinder. This sends hydraulic pressure
to the clutch slave cylinder. The release fork is then
actuated by the slave cylinder mounted on the trans-
mission housing. The release fork pivots on a ball
stud mounted in the transmission housing and
pushes the release bearing. The release bearing then
depresses the pressure plate spring fingers, thereby
releasing pressure on the clutch disc and allowing
the engine crankshaft to spin independently of the
transmission input shaft (Fig. 2).
WARNING
WARNING: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTSWITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH
A road test and component inspection (Fig. 3) is
recommended to determine a clutch problem.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If the clutch chat-
ters, grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove
and inspect the clutch components. If the problem is
noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be
needed as the transmission or another driveline com-
ponent may be at fault.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is
entering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, hous-
ing cracks or through hydraulic line openings. Driv-
ing through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals.
Fig. 2 CLUTCH OPERATION
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE FINGERS
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - RELEASE BEARING PUSHED IN
5 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
6 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
7 - RELEASE BEARING
6 - 2 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)

IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems are caused
by wear or damage to one or more clutch compo-
nents. A visual inspection of the release components
will usually reveal the problem part.
Release problems can result in hard shifting and
noise. Items to look for are: leaks at the clutch cylin-
ders and interconnecting line; loose slave cylinder
bolts; worn/loose release fork and pivot stud; dam-
aged release bearing; and a worn clutch disc, or pres-
sure plate.
Normal condensation in vehicles that are stored or
out of service for long periods of time can generate
enough corrosion to make the disc stick to the fly-
wheel, or pressure plate. If this condition is experi-
enced, correction only requires that the disc be
loosened manually through the inspection plate open-
ing.
Engagement problems usually result in slip, chat-
ter/shudder, and noisy operation. The primary causes
are clutch disc contamination; clutch disc wear; mis-
alignment, or distortion; flywheel damage; or a com-
bination of the foregoing. A visual inspection is
required to determine the part actually causing the
problem.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The clutch inspection chart (Fig. 3) outlines items
to be checked before and during clutch installation.
Use the chart as a check list to help avoid overlook-
ing potential problem sources during service opera-
tions.
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
Fault conditions are listed at the top of each chart.
Conditions, causes and corrective action are outlined
in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
6 - 4 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)

(6) If pressure plate will be reused, loosen cover
bolts evenly only few threads at a time in a diagonal
pattern (Fig. 6). This relieves cover spring tension
evenly to avoid warping.
(7) Remove bolts completely and remove plate, disc
and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Insert clutch alignment tool in pressure plate
and clutch disc.
(3) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion plate and disc on flywheel (Fig. 7).
NOTE: Raised side of disc hub faces away from the
flywheel.
(4) Iinstall cover bolts finger tight.
(5) Tighten cover bolts evenly and a few threads at
a time.
CAUTION: Cover bolts must be tightened evenly to
avoid distorting cover.
(6) Tighten clutch cover bolts to:
²5/16 in. diameter bolts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
²3/8 in. diameter bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).(7) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear-
ing grease or equivalent to bore of release bearing,
release lever contact surfaces and release lever pivot
stud (Fig. 8).
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease or equivalent to splines of transmis-
sion input shaft (or drive gear) and to release bearing
slide surface of the transmission front bearing
retainer (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
can result in grease contamination of disc.
(9) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Be sure spring clips that retain fork on
pivot ball and release bearing on fork are secure (Fig.
10). Also verify that the release lever is installed
properly.
NOTE: Release lever is installed correctly, when
lever part number is toward the bottom of the trans-
mission. Also a stamped ªIº in the lever goes
towards the pivot ball side of the transmission.
(10) Install transmission. Refer to 21 Transmission
and Transfer Case for procedures.
(11) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
Fig. 6 Bolt Loosening/Tightening Pattern
Fig. 7 Pressure Plate And Disc Alignment
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC
3 - CLUTCH DISC ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 8 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

(3) Replace one of the flywheel bolts with an
appropriate size threaded rod that is 10 in. (25.4 cm)
long (Fig. 11). The rod will be used to mount the dial
indicator.
(4) Remove release fork from the clutch housing.
(5) Install clutch housing. Tighten the housing
bolts nearest the alignment dowels first.
(6) Mount dial indicator on the threaded rod and
position indicator plunger on the clutch housing bore
(Fig. 12).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the topof the housing bore. Zero the indicator at this
point.(8) Rotate crankshaft and record indicator read-
ings at eight points (45É apart) around the bore (Fig.
13). Take measurement at least twice for accuracy.
(9) Subtract each reading from the one 180É oppo-
site to determine runout and direction. Bore runout
example (Fig. 13):
²0.000 ± (±0.007) = 0.007 in.
²+0.002 ± (±0.010) = 0.012 in.
²+0.004 ± (±0.005) = 0.009 in.
²±0.001 ± (+0.001) = ±0.002 in.
In this example the largest or total indicator read-
ing (TIR) difference is 0.012 inch. This means the
housing bore is offset from the crankshaft centerline
by 0.006 in. which is 1/2 of 0.012 inch. The dowels
needed to correct this have an offset of 0.007 in. (Fig.
14).
Remove housing and install dowels with the slotted
side facing out so they can be turned with a screw-
driver. Then install the housing and mount the dial
indicator and check bore runout again. Rotate the
dowels until the TIR is less than 0.010 inch.
Clutch Housing Face Runout
(1) Position dial indicator towards the housing face
(Fig. 15) with indicator plunger on the rim of the
housing bore.
(2) Rotate crankshaft until indicator plunger is at
the 10 O'clock position and zero the dial indicator.
(3) Measure and record face runout readings at
four points 90É apart (Fig. 16). Take measurement at
least twice for accuracy.
(4) Subtract lowest reading from highest to deter-
mine total runout. If low reading wasminus0.004
in. and highest reading wasplus0.009 in. the total
runout is 0.013 inch.
NOTE: Maximum acceptable face runout is 0.010
inch.
Fig. 11 Dial Indicator Mounting Stud Or Rod
1 - 7/16 - 20 THREAD
2 - NUT
3 - STUD OR THREADED ROD
4 - 10 INCHES LONG
Fig. 12 CLUTCH HOUSING BORE RUNOUT
1 - MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
4 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE
Fig. 13 MEASUREMENT POINTS AND READINGS
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE CIRCLE
6 - 10 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Lubricate release fork and pivot contact sur-
faces with Mopar High Temperature wheel bearing
grease or equivalent before installation.
(5) Align and install clutch housing on transmis-
sion (Fig. 19). Tighten housing bolts closest to align-
ment dowels first and to the following torque values:
²1/4in. diameter ªAº bolts - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.).
²3/8in. diameter ªAº bolts - 47.5 N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²7/16in. diameter ªAº bolts - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.2L/5.9L applications - 41 N´m (30
ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.9L TD/8.0L applications - 47.5
N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.2/5.9L applications - 68 N´m (50
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD applications - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L applications - 74.5 N´m (55
ft.lb.).
(6) Install transmission-to-engine strut after
installing clutch housing. Tighten bolt attaching
strut to clutch housing first and engine bolt last.
(7) Install the starter to the clutch housing.
(8) Install the clutch housing dust shield to the
clutch housing. Tighten the bolts to
(9) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21Transmission and Transfer Case
for proper procedures.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case forprocedures.
(2) Remove clutch housing, for NV4500 equipped
vehicles.
(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 20).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Inspect bearing slide surface on transmis-
sion front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide
surface is scored, worn or cracked. Inspect release
lever and pivot stud. Be sure stud is secure and in
good condition. Be sure fork is not distorted or
worn. Replace fork spring clips if bent or damaged.
(1) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud and release lever
pivot surface with Mopar high temperature bearing
grease or equilvalent.
Fig. 18 Transmission/Clutch Housing - NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
Fig. 19 Clutch Housing Installation - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
6 - 12 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(2) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
21) and verify fork and bearing are secured by spring
clips. Also be sure that the release fork is installed
properly.
NOTE: The rear side of the release lever has one
end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(3) Install clutch housing, if removed.(4) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case for procedures.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
Fig. 20 Clutch Release Components
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING
Fig. 21 Clutch Release Fork
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 13
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

BATTERY TRAY
DESCRIPTION
The battery is mounted in a molded plastic tray
(Fig. 25) with an integral support located in the left
front corner of the engine compartment. A U-nut held
in a molded formation on each side of the battery
tray provides anchor points for the battery hold down
bolts. The battery tray is secured on the outboard
side to the inner fender shield by two hex screws
with washers, and from underneath the integral bat-
tery tray support is secured to the left front wheel-
house inner panel by two stud plates. Each stud
plate has two studs and is secured by two nuts with
washers. The stud plate that secures the front of the
battery tray support to the wheelhouse inner panel is
installed through the wheelhouse panel from the top.
The stud plate that secures the rear of the battery
tray support to the wheelhouse inner panel is
installed through the wheelhouse panel from the bot-
tom.
A hole in the bottom of the battery tray is fitted
with a battery temperature sensor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/BATTERY TEMPERA-
TURE SENSOR - DESCRIPTION). Models that are
equipped with an optional vehicle speed control sys-tem have the speed control servo secured to the inte-
gral battery tray support.
Models that are equipped with the diesel engine
option have a second battery tray located in the right
front corner of the engine compartment. This second
battery tray and its mounting are mirror image of
the standard equipment left battery tray. However,
the right battery tray and support have no provisions
for a battery temperature sensor or a speed control
servo mounting bracket.
OPERATION
The battery tray provides a secure mounting loca-
tion and supports the battery. On some vehicles, the
battery tray also provides the anchor point/s for the
battery holddown hardware. The battery tray and
the battery holddown hardware combine to secure
and stabilize the battery in the engine compartment,
which prevents battery movement during vehicle
operation. Unrestrained battery movement during
vehicle operation could result in damage to the vehi-
cle, the battery, or both.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the battery from the battery tray
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BAT-
TERY - REMOVAL).
(2) If the left battery tray is being removed,
remove the battery temperature sensor from the left
battery tray (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the two screws with washers that
secure the outboard side of the battery tray to the
inner fender shield (Fig. 26).
(4) From the engine compartment, remove the two
nuts with washers that secure the rear of the battery
tray support to the two studs that extend through
the top of the front wheelhouse inner panel.
(5) From inside the front fender wheelhouse,
remove the two nuts with washers that secure the
front of the battery tray support to the two studs
that extend through the underside of the front wheel-
house inner panel.
(6) From inside the front fender wheelhouse,
remove the stud plate that secures the rear of the
battery tray support from the underside of the front
wheelhouse inner panel.
(7) From the engine compartment, remove the bat-
tery tray and the stud plate that secures the front of
the battery tray support from the front wheelhouse
inner panel as a unit.
(8) If the vehicle is equipped with the optional
vehicle speed control package, the speed control servo
must be removed from the left battery tray support
to complete battery tray removal.
Fig. 25 Battery Tray - Typical
1 - STUD PLATE (2)
2 - NUT AND WASHER (4)
3 - FRONT WHEELHOUSE INNER PANEL
4 - SPEED CONTROL SERVO
5 - TRAY
6 - SCREW AND WASHER (2)
7 - BATTERY TREMPERATURE SENSOR
8 - U-NUT (2)
9 - FENDER INNER SHIELD
BR/BEBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 23

Starter Motor and Solenoid
Solenoid Closing Maximum
Voltage Required7.5 Volts 7.5 Volts 8.0 Volts
* Cranking Amperage Draw
Test125 - 250 Amperes 125 - 250 Amperes 450 - 700 Amperes
* Test at operating temperature. Cold engine, tight (new) engine, or heavy oil will increase starter amperage draw.
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE - STARTING
SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Battery Cable Eyelet Nut
at Solenoid (large nut -
gas engines)25 19 221
Battery Cable Eyelet Nut
at Solenoid (large nut -
diesel engine)14 - 120
Starter Solenoid Nut
(small nut - diesel engine)6-55
Starter Mounting Bolts -
Gas Engines68 50 -
Starter Mounting Nut -
Gas Engines68 50 -
Starter Mounting Bolts -
Diesel43 32 -
STARTER MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The starter motors used for the 5.9L diesel engine
and the 8.0L gasoline engine available in this model
are not interchangeable with each other, or with the
starter motors used for the other available engines.
The starter motor for the 5.9L diesel engine is
mounted with three screws to the flywheel housing
on the left side of the engine. The starter motor for
the 8.0L gasoline engine is mounted with two screws
to the flange on the left rear corner of the engine
block, while the starter motor for the 5.9L Gas
engine is mounted with one screw, a stud and a nut
to the manual transmission clutch housing or auto-
matic transmission torque converter housing and is
located on the left side of the engine.
Each of these starter motors incorporates several
of the same features to create a reliable, efficient,
compact, lightweight and powerful unit. The electric
motors of all of these starters have four brushes con-
tacting the motor commutator, and feature four elec-
tromagnetic field coils wound around four pole shoes.
The 5.9L and 8.0L gasoline engine starter motors are
rated at 1.4 kilowatts (about 1.9 horsepower) outputat 12 volts, while the 5.9L diesel engine starter
motor is rated at 2.7 kilowatts (about 3.6 horse-
power) output at 12 volts.
All of these starter motors are serviced only as a
unit with their starter solenoids, and cannot be
repaired. If either component is faulty or damaged,
the entire starter motor and starter solenoid unit
must be replaced.
OPERATION
These starter motors are equipped with a gear
reduction (intermediate transmission) system. The
gear reduction system consists of a gear that is inte-
gral to the output end of the electric motor armature
shaft that is in continual engagement with a larger
gear that is splined to the input end of the starter
pinion gear shaft. This feature makes it possible to
reduce the dimensions of the starter. At the same
time, it allows higher armature rotational speed and
delivers increased torque through the starter pinion
gear to the starter ring gear.
The starter motors for all engines are activated by
an integral heavy duty starter solenoid switch
mounted to the overrunning clutch housing. This
electromechanical switch connects and disconnects
BR/BESTARTING 8F - 37
STARTING (Continued)