tow DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the oil pump onto the crankshaft and
install the 4 oil pump retaining bolts.
(2) Tighten the oil pump retaining bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the pick-up tube and oil pan(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite mate-
rial and features long runners which maximizes low
end torque. The intake manifold uses single plane
sealing which consist of eight individual press in
place port gaskets to prevent leaks.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
(3) Disconnect electrical connectors for the follow-
ing components:
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
²Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
²Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
²Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
(4) Disconnect brake booster hose and positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
(5) Remove generator and set aside.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove lines or
remove freon from A/C compressor.
(6) Remove air conditioning compressor and set
aside..
(7) Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(8) Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in
a crisscross pattern starting from the outside bolts
and ending at the middle bolts.
(9) Remove intake manifold and IAFM as an
assembly.
CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for
the intake manifold. If severe damage is found dur-
ing inspection, the intake manifold must be
replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly
clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning
solvent, then air dry.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks,
nicks and distortion.
(2) Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fit-
tings for looseness or blockage.
(3) Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating
surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install intake manifold seals.
(2) Position intake manifold and IAFM.
(3) Install intake manifold retaining bolts, and
tighten in sequence from the middle bolts towards
Fig. 30 Measuring Clearance Over Rotors - Typical
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 219
OIL PUMP (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
9 - 232 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 233
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft (Fig. 23) is of a cast nodular steel
splayed type design, with five main bearing journal-
s.The crankshaft is located at the bottom of the
engine block and is held in place with five main bear-
ing caps. The number 3 counterweight is the location
for journal size identification.
OPERATION
The crankshaft transfers force generated by com-
bustion within the cylinder bores to the flywheel or
flexplate.
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be done in vehicle. How-
ever the transmission must be removed first.
(1) If crankshaft is to be removed while engine is
in vehicle remove the transmission. Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pump from the rear main bear-
ing cap (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PUMP - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Identify rod bearing caps before removal.
Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.CAUTION: Support crankshaft before removing
main bearing caps. failure to do so will allow the
crankshaft to fall damaging the crankshaft.
(7) Using a suitable jack, support the crankshaft.
(8) Identify main bearing caps before removal.
Remove main bearing caps and bearings one at a
time.
(9) Lower the crankshaft out of the block.
(10) Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil
seals.
(11) Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil
seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean Gasket Maker residue and sealant from
the cylinder block and rear cap mating surface. Do
this before applying the MopartGasket Maker and
the installation of rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 24). DO NOT over apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
Fig. 23 Crankshaft with Journal Size Identification
Fig. 24 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER 5 mm (0.20 IN.) ON BOTH SIDES
OF REAR MAIN CAP
9 - 252 ENGINE - 5.9LDR

lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Remove the crankshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL). Dis-
card the old upper seal.
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove
and discard the old lower oil seal.
(4) Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil
seal.
LOWER SEAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard
the old lower seal.
INSTALLATION
The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The
upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.
UPPER SEAL ÐCRANKSHAFT REMOVED
(1) Clean the cylinder block rear cap mating sur-
face. Be sure the seal groove is free of debris. Check
for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating
surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil.
(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with
the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5)
Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.
(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear mainbearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main
bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(11) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
33). Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - FRONT - INSTALLATION).
(13) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 32 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 - MOPARTGASKET MAKER (OR EQUIVALENT)
3 - CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
9 - 256 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED
(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before
oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine
oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at
least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.
(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder
block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear
of the engine.
(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into
the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward
the rear of the engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
33). Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
LOWER SEAL
(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces
including the oil pan gasket groove.
(2) Carefully install a new upper seal. Refer to
UPPER SEALÐCRANKSHAFT INSTALLED.
(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine
oil.
(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with
the white paint facing the rear of engine.
(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of MopartGasket
Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.
(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-
ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.
(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned
and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N´m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).
(9) Apply MopartGEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing.
Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.
(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
Fig. 33 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap-to-Block Joint
1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT NOZZLE
TIP
2 - SEALANT APPLIED
3 - CYLINDER BLOCK
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 257
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

(3) Remove rocker assembly and push rods (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify push rods
to ensure installation in original locations.
(4) Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove yoke retainer and aligning yokes.
(6) Slide Hydraulic Tappet Remover/Installer Tool
C-4129-A through opening in cylinder head and seat
tool firmly in the head of tappet.
(7) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location.
(8) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets with MopartEngine Oil
Supplement or equivalent.
(2) Install tappets and push rods in their original
positions. Ensure that the oil feed hole in the side of
the tappet body faces up (away from the crankshaft).
(3) Install aligning yokes with ARROW toward
camshaft.
(4) Install yoke retainer. Tighten the bolts to 23
N´m (200 in. lbs.) torque. Install intake manifold
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install air cleaner assembly and air in-let hose.
(8) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of aluminum and have three
ring grooves, the top two grooves are for the compres-
sion rings and the bottom groove is for the oil control
ring. The connecting rods are forged steel and are
coined prior to heat treat. The piston pins are press
fit.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON FITTING
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.
Specified clearance between the piston and the cylin-
der wall is 0.013-0.038 mm (0.0005-0.0015 inch) at
21ÉC (70ÉF).
Piston diameter should be measured at the top of
skirt, 90É to piston pin axis. Cylinder bores should be
measured halfway down the cylinder bore and trans-
verse to the engine crankshaft center line.
Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
Check the pistons for taper and elliptical shape
before they are fitted into the cylinder bore (Fig. 38).
Fig. 38 Piston Measurements
1 - 49.53 mm
(1.95 IN.)
9 - 260 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

(3) Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385
over the piston and tighten with the special wrench
(part of Tool C-385).Be sure position of rings
does not change during this operation.
(4) Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod
bolts. The long protector should be installed on the
numbered side of the connecting rod.
(5) Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod
journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Be sure
connecting rod and cylinder bore number are the
same. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and
guide rod over the crankshaft journal.
(6) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on crankshaft journal.
(7) The notch, or groove, on top of piston must be
pointing toward front of engine. The larger chamfer
of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward
crankshaft journal fillet.
(8) Install rod caps. Be sure connecting rod, con-
necting rod cap, and cylinder bore number are the
same. Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod bolts and
tighten nuts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the engine into the vehicle (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - INSTALLATION).
PISTON RINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON RING
FITTING
(1) Measurement of end gaps:
(a) Measure piston ring gap 2 in. from bottom of
cylinder bore. An inverted piston can be used to
push the rings down to ensure positioning rings
squarely in the cylinder bore before measuring.
(b) Insert feeler gauge in the gap. The top com-
pression ring gap should be between 0.254-0.508
mm (0.010-0.020 in.). The second compression ring
gap should be between 0.508-0.762 mm
(0.020-0.030 in.). The oil ring gap should be 0.254-
1.270 mm (0.010-0.050 in.).
(c) Rings with insufficient end gap may be prop-
erly filed to the correct dimension. Rings with
excess gaps should not be used.
(2) Install rings, and confirm ring side clearance:
(a)
Install oil rings being careful not to nick or
scratch the piston. Install the oil control rings accord-
ing to instructions in the package. It is not necessary
to use a tool to install the upper and lower rails.
Insert oil rail spacer first, then side rails.
(b) Install the second compression rings using
Installation Tool C-4184. The compression rings
must be installed with the identification mark face
up (toward top of piston) and chamfer facing down.
An identification mark on the ring is a drill point,
a stamped letter ªOº, an oval depression, or the
word ªTOPº (Fig. 40) (Fig. 42).
(c) Using a ring installer, install the top com-
pression ring with the chamfer facing up (Fig. 41)
(Fig. 42). An identification mark on the ring is a
drill point, a stamped letter ªOº, an oval depression
or the word ªTOPº facing up.
(d) M
easure side clearance between piston ring
and ring land. Clearance should be 0.074-0.097 mm
(0.0029-0.0038 in.) for the compression rings. The
steel rail oil ring should be free in groove, but should
not exceed 0.246 mm (0.0097 in.) side clearance.
(e) Pistons with insufficient, or excessive, side
clearance should be replaced.
(3) Orient the rings:
(a) Arrange top compression ring 90É counter-
clockwise from the oil ring rail gap (Fig. 43).
Fig. 40 Second Compression Ring Identification
(Typical)
1 - SECOND COMPRESSION RING (BLACK CAST IRON)
2 - CHAMFER
3 - TWO DOTS
Fig. 41 Top Compression Ring Identification (Typical)
1 - TOP COMPRESSION RING (GRAY IN COLOR)
2 - CHAMFER
3 - ONE DOT
9 - 262 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

EXCESSIVE BLUE SMOKE
POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Excessive piston ring end gap. Remove pistons and measure piston ring end gap
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Excessive cylinder bore wear and taper. Remove pistons and measure cylinder bore wear and
taper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Cylinder damage. Remove pistons and inspect cylinder bore for cracks or
porosity. Repair with cylinder liner if necessary. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Piston damage. Remove pistons and inspect for cracks, holes. Measure
piston for out-of-round and taper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING
ROD - INSPECTION).
Turbocharger failure. (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER
SYSTEM/TURBOCHARGER - INSPECTION).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION/LEAKAGE TESTS
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure batteries are completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnostic purposes.
(1) Disconnect the fuel inlet line to the fuel trans-
fer pump. Plug the fuel line from the fuel tank.
(2) Start the engine and idle until the engine stalls
(runs out of fuel).
(3) Disconnect all three injector wire harness con-
nectors at the rocker housing.
(4) Remove the breather cover and cylinder head
cover.
(5) Remove the high pressure fuel line between the
cylinder head and fuel rail for the cylinder to be
tested.
(6) Remove the exhaust rocker lever.
(7) Use Tool 9010 to remove the injector and cop-
per sealing washer.
(8) Install the exhaust rocker lever and torque to
43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(9) Cover the remaining rocker levers with clean
shop towels to prevent any oil splatter under the
hood.
(10) Place a rag over the compression test tool fit-
ting. Crank the engine for 2±3 seconds to purge any
fuel that may have drained into the cylinder when
the injector was removed.(11) Connect the compression test gauge.
(12) Crank the engine for 5 seconds and record the
pressure reading. Repeat this step three times and
calculate the average of the three readings.
(13) Combustion pressure leakage can be checked
if cylinder pressure is below the specification. Per-
form the leakage test procedure on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer instructions.
(14) Upon completion of the test check an erase
any engine related fault codes.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
(1) Start and operate the engine until it attains
normal operating temperature.
(2) Remove the breather cover and cylinder head
cover.
(3) Disconnect all three injector wire harness con-
nectors at the rocker housing.
(4) Bring the cylinder to be tested to TDC.
(5) Remove the high pressure fuel line between the
cylinder head and the fuel rail for the cylinder to be
tested.
(6) Install capping Tool 9011 onto the rail.
(7) Remove the high pressure connector nut and
high pressure connector with Tool 9015.
(8) Remove the exhaust and intake rocker lever.
9 - 288 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(9) Use Tool 9010 to remove the injector and cop-
per sealing washer.
(10) Install compression test Tool 9007 into the
injector bore.
(11) Connect the leakage tester and perform the
leakage test procedure on each cylinder according to
the tester manufacturer's instructions.
(12) Upon completion of the test check and erase
any engine related fault codes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobicmaterial is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 289
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)