tow DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 2003, Model line: RAM, Model: DODGE RAM 2003Pages: 2895, PDF Size: 83.15 MB
Page 1746 of 2895

THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE
REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage or kink cable
core wire (within cable sheathing) while servicing
accelerator pedal or throttle cable.
(1) From inside vehicle, hold up accelerator pedal.
Remove plastic cable retainer (clip) and throttle cable
core wire from upper end of pedal arm (Fig. 1). Plas-
tic cable retainer snaps into top of pedal arm.
(2) Remove cable core wire at pedal arm.
(3) From inside vehicle, remove metal clip holding
cable to dashpanel (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove air resonator box at throttle body.
(5) Unsnap cable from dashpanel routing clip.
(6) Remove cable housing from dash panel and
pull into engine compartment.
(7) Hold throttle in wide open position. While held
in this position, slide throttle cable pin (Fig. 49) from
throttle body bellcrank.
(8) Using a pick or small screwdriver, press release
tab (Fig. 50) to release plastic cable mount from
bracket.Press on tab only enough to release
cable from bracket. If tab is pressed too much,
it will be broken.Slide plastic mount (Fig. 50)
towards right side of vehicle to remove throttle cable
from throttle body bracket.
(9) Remove throttle cable from vehicle.
4.7L V-8
CAUTION: Be careful not to damage or kink cable
core wire (within cable sheathing) while servicing
accelerator pedal or throttle cable.
(1) From inside vehicle, hold up accelerator pedal.
Remove plastic cable retainer (clip) and throttle cable
core wire from upper end of pedal arm (Fig. 1). Plas-
tic cable retainer (clip) snaps into pedal arm.
(2) Remove cable core wire at pedal arm.
(3) From inside vehicle, remove cable clip holding
cable to dashpanel (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove air box at throttle body.
(5) Unsnap cable from dashpanel routing clip.
(6) Remove cable housing from dash panel and
pull into engine compartment.
(7) Using finger pressure only, disconnect accelera-
tor cable connector at throttle body bellcrank pin by
pushing connector off bellcrank pin towards front of
vehicle (Fig. 51).DO NOT try to pull connector
off perpendicular to bellcrank pin. Connector
will be broken.
(8) Lift accelerator cable from top of cable cam
(Fig. 51).
(9) Press tab (Fig. 52) to release plastic cable
mount from bracket.Press on tab only enough to
release cable from bracket. If tab is pressed too
much, it will be broken.Slide plastic mount (Fig.
52) towards passenger side of vehicle to remove cable
from bracket.
(10) Remove throttle cable from vehicle.
Fig. 49 THROTTLE CABLE PIN - 3.7L V-6
1 - THROTTLE CABLE PIN
2 - THROTTLE BODY BELLCRANK
3 - PUSH UP HERE
Fig. 50 THROTTLE CABLE RELEASE TAB - 3.7L V-6
1 - THROTTLE CABLE
2 - RELEASE TAB
3 - PICK OR SCREWDRIVER
4 - PLASTIC CABLE MOUNT
DRFUEL INJECTION - GAS 14 - 49
Page 1767 of 2895

(1) Disconnect both negative battery cables from
both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.
(2) Thoroughly clean fuel lines at both the cylinder
head and injection pump ends.
(3) If removing fuel line at either #1 or #2 cylinder,
the intake manifold air heater elements must first be
removed from top of intake manifold. Refer to Intake
Air Heater Removal / Installation for procedures.
(4) If removing fuel line at #6 cylinder, a bracket
(Fig. 16) is located above fuel line connection at cyl-
inder head. Two bolts secure this bracket to rear of
cylinder head. The upper bolt hole is slotted. Loosen
(but do not remove) these 2 bracket bolts. Tilt
bracket down to gain access to #6 fuel line connec-
tion.
(5) Remove necessary insulated fuel line support
clamps (Fig. 17) and bracket bolts at intake manifold.
(6) Place shop towels around fuel lines at fuel rail
and injectors. If possible, do not allow fuel to drip
down side of engine.
CAUTION: WHEN LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING
HIGH-PRESSURE LINES ATTACHED TO A SEPA-
RATE FITTING (Fig. 18) , USE A BACK-UP WRENCH
ON FITTING. DO NOT ALLOW FITTING TO ROTATE.
DAMAGE TO BOTH FUEL LINE AND FITTING WILL
RESULT.(7) Carefully remove each fuel line from engine.
Note position of each while removing.Do not bend
lines while removing.
Fig. 15 TYPICAL TEST FOR LEAKS USING
CARDBOARD
1 - HIGH-PRESSURE LINE
2 - CARDBOARD
3 - TYPICAL HIGH-PRESSURE FITTINGFig. 16 BRACKET - #6 INJECTOR
1 - BRACKET
2 - REAR OF CYLINDER HEAD
3 - FUEL DRAIN MANIFOLD LINE (TO FUEL TANK)
4 - BANJO BOLT
5 - SLOTTED HOLE
6 - BRACKET BOLTS (2)
Fig. 17 FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
1 - FUEL RAIL MOUNTING BOLTS (3)
2 - INSULATED CLAMPS
3 - FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
14 - 70 FUEL DELIVERY - DIESELDR
FUEL LINES (Continued)
Page 1785 of 2895

(3) The bottom of fuel injector is sealed to cylinder
head bore with a copper sealing washer (shim) of acertain thickness (Fig. 20). A new shim with correct
thickness must always be re-installed after removing
injector. Measure thickness of injector shim (Fig. 21).
Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060º)
(4) Install new shim (washer) to bottom of injector.
Apply light coating of clean engine oil to washer. This
will keep washer in place during installation.
(5) Install new o-ring to fuel injector. Apply small
amount of clean engine oil to o-ring.
(6) Note fuel inlet port on high pressure connector.
This must be positioned towards intake manifold.
Position injector into cylinder head bore being
extremely careful not to allow injector tip to touch
sides of bore. Press fuel injector into cylinder head
with finger pressure only.
(7) Install fuel injector hold down clamp and hold
down bolts. Alternately tighten clamp bolts to 10 N´m
(89 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect injector solenoid wires and nuts to top
of injectors (Fig. 18). Tighten connector nuts to 1.5
Fig. 17 TOOL #9015 AND CONNECTOR TUBE
1 - CONNECTOR TUBE
2 - LOCATING PINS
3 - RUBBER O-RING
4 - TOOL #9015
Fig. 18 FUEL INJECTORS
1 - SOLENOID CONNECTIONS
2 - ROCKER HOUSING
3 - FUEL INJECTOR
4 - PASSTHROUGH CONNECTOR
Fig. 19 FUEL INJECTOR REMOVER - #9010
Fig. 20 FUEL INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM)
LOCATION
1 - FUEL INJECTOR
2 - COPPER SEALING WASHER (SHIM)
14 - 88 FUEL INJECTION - DIESELDR
FUEL INJECTOR (Continued)
Page 1838 of 2895

POWER STEERING PRESSURE
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A pressure sensing switch is used in the power
steering system. It is mounted on the high-pressure
steering hose (Fig. 9). This switch will be used with
both 3.7L, 4.7L and 5.7L engines. There is no pres-
sure switch used for the 5.9L pump.
OPERATION
The switch is used on the 3.7L V-6, 4.7L & 5.7L
V-8 engines.
The power steering pressure switch provides an
input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This
input is provided during periods of high steering
pump load and low engine rpm; such as during park-
ing maneuvers. The PCM increases the idle speed
through the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor. This is
done to prevent the engine from stalling under the
increased load.
When steering pump pressure exceeds 3275 kPa
690 kPa (475 psi 100 psi), the Normally Closed
(NC) switch will open and the PCM will increase the
engine idle speed. This will prevent the engine from
stalling.
When pump pressure drops to approximately 1379
kPa (200 psi), the switch circuit will re-close and
engine idle speed will return to its previous setting.
REMOVAL - 3.7L, 4.7L & 5.7L
The power steering pressure switch is installed in
the power steering high-pressure hose (Fig. 9).
(1) Disconnect electrical connector from power
steering pressure switch.
(2) Place a small container or shop towel beneath
switch to collect any excess fluid.
(3) Remove switch. Use back-up wrench on power
steering line to prevent line bending.
INSTALLATION - 3.7L, 4.7L & 5.7L
This switch is used only with the 3.7L V±6 and the
4.7L, 5.7L V-8 engines.
(1) Install power steering switch into power steer-
ing line.
(2) Tighten to 8±11 N´m (70±100 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect electrical connector to switch.
(4) Check power steering fluid and add as neces-
sary.
(5) Start engine and again check power steering
fluid. Add fluid if necessary.
PULLEY
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Do not reuse the old power steering
pump pulley it is not intended for reuse. A new pul-
ley must be installed if removed.
(1) Remove the power steering pump assembly,
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the pulley from the pump with an
appropriate power steering pulley removal tool (Fig.
10).
Fig. 9 PRESSURE SWITCH
1 - POWER STEERING PULLEY
2 - POWER STEERING PUMP HOUSING
3 - POWER STEERING FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - RETURN HOSE
5 - HIGH PRESSURE HOSE WITH PRESSURE SWITCH
Fig. 10 PULLEY REMOVAL
1 - POWER STEERING PUMP
2 - PULLEY
3 - POWER STEERING PULLEY REMOVAL TOOL
DRPUMP 19 - 45
Page 1842 of 2895

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LOW LUBRICANT LEVEL
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the
result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill or an incor-
rect lubricant level check. Leaks can occur at the
mating surfaces of the gear case, adaptor or exten-
sion housing, or from the front/rear seals. A sus-
pected leak could also be the result of an overfill
condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter hous-
ing will be from the housing oil seals. Leaks at com-
ponent mating surfaces will probably be the result of
inadequate sealer, gaps in the sealer, incorrect bolt
tightening or use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from
either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch
housing after extended operation. If the leak is
severe, it may also contaminate the clutch disc caus-
ing the disc to slip, grab and or chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can only be made
when the vehicle is level. Also allow the lubricant to
settle for a minute or so before checking. These rec-
ommendations will ensure an accurate check and
avoid an underfill or overfill condition. Always check
the lubricant level after any addition of fluid to avoid
an incorrect lubricant level condition.
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting is usually caused by a low lubricant
level, improper or contaminated lubricants. The con-
sequence of using non-recommended lubricants is
noise, excessive wear, internal bind and hard shift-
ing. Substantial lubricant leaks can result in gear,
shift rail, synchro, and bearing damage. If a leak
goes undetected for an extended period, the first indi-
cations of component damage are usually hard shift-
ing and noise.
Shift component damage or damaged clutch pres-
sure plate or disc are additional probable causes of
increased shift effort. Worn/damaged pressure plate
or disc can cause incorrect release. If clutch problem
is advanced, gear clash during shifts can result.
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash
when shifting into any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to
stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
cases this condition will decline as the rings wear-in.
TRANSMISSION NOISE
Most manual transmissions make some noise dur-
ing normal operation. Rotating gears generate a mild
whine that is audible, but generally only at extreme
speeds.Severe highly audible transmission noise is gener-
ally the initial indicator of a lubricant problem.
Insufficient, improper or contaminated lubricant will
promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rails,
forks and bearings. The overheating caused by a
lubricant problem, can also lead to gear and bearing
damage.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Remove shift boot bezel screws and slide boot
upward on shift lever extension.
(4) Remove shift lever extension from the shift
tower and lever assembly.
(5) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(6) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(7) Drain lubricant if transmission will be disas-
sembled for service.
(8) Mark propeller shaft/shafts and companion
flange yoke/yokes for installation reference and
remove propeller shaft/shafts.
(9) Disconnect harness from clips on transmission
housing.
(10) Remove transfer case linkage if equipped.
(11) Remove transfer case mounting nuts and
remove transfer case if equipped.
(12) Remove slave cylinder mounting nut and
remove cylinder (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 3
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)
Page 1843 of 2895

(13) Remove starter motor, structural dust cover,
dust shield and suspension crossmember (Fig. 3).
(14) Remove exhaust pipe from the exhaust mani-
folds.
(15) Support engine with adjustable jack stand
and wood block.
(16) Support and secure transmission to a trans-
mission jack with safety chains.
(17) Remove bolts from the rear transmission
mount.
(18) Remove the rear crossmember and transmis-
sion mount (Fig. 4).(19) Remove bolts attaching transmission to the
engine.
(20) Move transmission rearward until input shaft
is clear of clutch disc and pressure plate. Then lower
jack and remove transmission from under vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
FRONT HOUSING
(1) Shift transmission into Neutral.
(2) If lubricant was not drained out of transmis-
sion during removal, remove drain plug and drain
lubricant.
(3) Inspect drain plug magnet for debris.
(4) Remove backup light switch located on passen-
ger side of rear housing (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove shift tower bolts and remove tower and
lever assembly (Fig. 6).
Fig. 3 DUST COVER
1 - DUST SHIELD
2 - STARTER MOTOR
3 - DUST COVER
4 - CROSSMEMBER
Fig. 4 CROSSMEMBER
1 - TRANSMISSION MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
Fig. 5 BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH
1 - BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH
Fig. 6 SHIFT TOWER
1 - SHIFT TOWER
2 - SHIFT SOCKET
3 - SEAL
21 - 4 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500DR
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)
Page 1846 of 2895

(15) Note position of input shaft, shift shaft, forks
and geartrain components in housing (Fig. 14).
SHIFT/FORK SHAFTS AND REVERSE IDLER
SEGMENT
(1) Place a shop towel over the shaft lever to con-
tain the lever detent ball and spring.
(2) Rotate lever and bushing upward out of the
shift forks and catch ball and spring (Fig. 15).
(3) Unseat shift socket roll pin with Remover 6858.
Position remover on shift shaft and center tool over
the roll pin. Verify tool legs are firmly seated on the
shift socket (Fig. 16).
(4) Tilt socket toward the side of the case to avoid
trapping the pin between the gear teeth.
(5) Tighten remover to press the roll pin down-
ward and out of the shift socket (Fig. 16).
NOTE: Roll pin must only clear the shift shaft. Do
not push the pin into the geartrain.
(6) Drive out shift bushing and lever roll pin with
a hammer and punch (Fig. 17).
NOTE: Use proper size punch to avoid bending the
shift shaft.
Fig. 15 DETENT SPRING AND BALL
1 - SHAFT LEVER
2 - SPRING AND BALL
3 - MAGNET
Fig. 16 SHIFT SOCKET
1 - REMOVER
2 - SHIFT SOCKET
Fig. 17 SHIFT SHAFT LEVER & BUSHING ROLL PIN
1 - PIN PUNCH
2 - BUSHING AND LEVER
3 - SHIFT SHAFT
Fig. 14 GEARTRAIN AND SHIFT COMPONENT
1 - SHIFT SHAFT
2 - BUSHING
3 - REAR HOUSING
4 - REVERSE IDLER AND SUPPORT
5 - OUTPUT SHAFT AND GEARS
6 - COUNTERSHAFT
7 - 1-2 FORK
8 - INPUT SHAFT
9 - 3-4 FORK
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 7
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)
Page 1848 of 2895

(12) Remove reverse idler shaft support segment
by sliding it straight out of housing.
(13) Support geartrain and rear housing on Fix-
ture 6747 as follows:
(a) Adjust height of reverse idler pedestal rod
until the reverse idle shaft bottoms in Cup 8115.
(b) Position Adapters 6747-1A and 6747-2A on
Fixture 6747.
(c) Slide fixture tool onto input shaft, counter-
shaft and idler gear (Fig. 23).
(d) Stand geartrain and rear housing upright on
fixture (Fig. 24). Have helper hold fixture tool in
place while housing and geartrain is being rotated
into upright position.
(14) Remove rear bolt holding reverse idler shaft
in housing.
REAR HOUSING - 2WD
(1) On 2-wheel drive transmission, remove three
bolts that attach output shaft bearing retainer to
rear case (Fig. 25). Bolts are rear of shift tower open-
ing.
Fig. 23 FIXTURE ASSEMBLY
1 - FIXTURE 6747
2 - ADAPTER 6747-1A
3 - CUP ADAPTER 8115
4 - REVERSE IDLER PEDESTAL
5 - ADAPTER 6747-2A
Fig. 24 GEARTRAIN & HOUSING ON FIXTURE
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - COUNTERSHAFT
3 - FIXTURE 6747
Fig. 25 OUTPUT SHAFT
1 - OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING RETAINER BOLTS (THIRD BOLT
IS AT OPPOSITE SIDE OF CASE)
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 9
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)
Page 1854 of 2895

(17) Remove reverse gear and needle bearing (Fig.
46).
REVERSE IDLER
(1) Remove idler gear snap rings (Fig. 47).
(2) Remove thrust washer, wave washer, thrust
plate and idler gear from shaft.
(3) Remove idler gear needle bearing from shaft.
CLEANING
Clean the gears, shafts, shift components and
transmission housings with a standard parts clean-
ing solvent. Do not use acid or corrosive base sol-
vents. Dry all parts except bearings with compressed
air.
Clean the shaft bearings with a mild solvent such
as Mopar degreasing solvent, Gunk or similar sol-
vents. Do not dry the bearings with compressed air.
Allow the bearings to either air dry or wipe them dry
with clean shop towels.
INSPECTION
SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLY
The shift lever assembly is not serviceable. Replace
the lever and shift tower as an assembly if the tower,
lever, lever ball or internal components are worn or
damaged.
SHIFT SHAFT AND FORKS
Inspect the shift fork interlock arms and synchro
sleeve contact surfaces (Fig. 48). Replace any fork
exhibiting wear or damage in these areas. Do not
attempt to salvage shift forks.
Check condition of the shift shaft detent plunger
and spring. The plunger should be smooth and free of
nicks or scores. The plunger spring should be
straight and not collapsed, or distorted. Minor
scratches or nicks on the plunger can be smoothed
with 320/400 grit emery soaked in oil. Replace the
plunger and spring if in doubt about condition. Check
condition of detent plunger bushings. Replace if dam-
aged.
Inspect shift shaft, shift shaft bushing, bearing,
shaft lever and lever bushing that fits over the lever.
Replace shaft if bent, cracked or severely scored.
Minor burrs, nicks or scratches can be smoothed off
with 320/400 grit emery cloth followed by polishing
with crocus cloth. Replace the shift shaft bushing or
bearing if damaged.
Replace the shaft lever and bushing if either part
is deformed, or worn. Do not attempt to salvage these
parts as shift fork binding will occur. Replace the roll
pin that secures the lever to the shaft.
Fig. 47 Reverse Idler Components
1 - SNAP RING
2 - FLAT WASHER
3 - WAVE WASHER
4 - THRUST WASHER
5 - REVERSE IDLER GEAR6 - IDLER GEAR BEARING
7 - IDLER SHAFT
8 - THRUST WASHER
9 - SNAP RING
10 - THRUST WASHER LOCKBALLS
Fig. 46 REVERSE GEAR & NEEDLE BEARING
1 - REVERSE GEAR AND NEEDLE BEARING
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 15
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)
Page 1864 of 2895

Fig. 77 SYNCHRO SLEEVE LOCATIONS
1 - DOUBLE GROOVE FORWARD
2 - GROOVE FORWARD
3 - FIRST GEAR SIDE MARKING TOWARD FIRST GEAR
4 - TAPER FORWARD5 - GROOVE FORWARD
6 - 5TH-REV SYNCHRO SLEEVE
7 - 1-2 SYNCHRO SLEEVE
8 - 3-4 SYNCHRO SLEEVE
Fig. 78 IDLER GEAR & BEARING
1 - IDLER GEAR
2 - BEARING
3 - LOCK BALL
4 - REAR OF SHAFTFig. 79 IDLER GEAR REAR THRUST WASHER
1 - LOCK BALL
2 - SNAP RING GROOVE
3 - THRUST WASHER
DRMANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 21 - 25
MANUAL TRANSMISSION - NV3500 (Continued)