tires DODGE RAM 2003 Service User Guide

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The left and right side torsion bars are
NOT interchangeable. The bars are identified and
stamped R or L, for right or left. The bars do not
have a front or rear end and can be installed with
either end facing forward.
(1) Insert torsion bar ends into anchor and suspen-
sion arm.
(2) Position the anchor in the frame crossmember.
(3) Install Special Tool - 8686 to the anchor and
the crossmember (Fig. 30).
(4) Increase the tension on the anchor in order to
load the torsion bar.
(5) Install the adjustment bolt and the adjuster
nut.
(6) Turn adjustment bolt clockwise the recorded
amount of turns.
(7) Remove tool - 8686 from the torsion bar cross-
member (Fig. 30).
(8) Install the transfer case skid plate (Refer to 13
- FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/TRANSFER CASE
SKID PLATE - INSTALLATION).
(9) Lower vehicle and adjust the front suspension
height (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGN-
MENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
UPPER BALL JOINT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - UPPER BALL
JOINT
NOTE: If the ball joint is equipped with a lubrication
fitting, grease the joint then road test the vehicle
before performing test.
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle. Place safety floor
stands under both lower control arms as far outboard
as possible. Lower the vehicle to allow the stands to
support some or all of the vehicle weight.
(2) Remove the front tires.(3) Mount a dial indicator solidly to the frame and
then zero the dial indicator.
(4) Position dial indicator plunger on the topside of
the upper ball joint (Fig. 32).
NOTE: The dial indicator plunger must be perpen-
dicular to the machined surface of the ball joint
(Fig. 32).
NOTE: Use care not to pry or tear the ball joint
boot, when checking the free play.
(5) Position a pry bar between the steering
knuckle and the upper control arm. Pry upwards on
the upper control arm (Fig. 32).
(6) If the travel exceeds 0.5 mm (0.020 in.), replace
the upper control arm since the upper ball joint is
integral to the arm (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/UPPER CONTROL ARM - REMOVAL).
(7) If the upper ball joint is within specs reinstall
the front tires (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/
WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 32 UPPER BALL JOINT PLAY
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
3-PRYBAR
4 - KNUCKLE
5 - BALL JOINT BOOT
2 - 26 FRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSIONDR
TORSION BAR (Continued)

UPPER CONTROL ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the nut from upper ball joint.
(4) Separate upper ball joint from the steering
knuckle with Remover 8677 (Fig. 33)
CAUTION: When installing Remover 8677 to sepa-
rate the ball joint, be careful not to damage the ball
joint seal.(5) Remove the control arm pivot bolts and remove
control arm (Fig. 34).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the control arm into the frame brack-
ets. Install bolts and tighten to 132 N´m (97 ft.
lbs.)(LD) or 170 N´m (125 ft. lbs.)(HD 4X2 only).
(2) Insert the ball joint in steering knuckle and
tighten the upper ball joint nut to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.)(on 1500 series only an additional 90É turn is
required).
(3) Install the wheel and tire assembly,(Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(4) Remove the support and lower vehicle.
(5) Perform a wheel alignment, (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 33 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 34 UPPER CONTROL ARM
1 - REAR PIVOT BOLT
2 - FRONT PIVOT BOLT
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
DRFRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 27

(8) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread
the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold
the assembly in place.(9) Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/
bearing bolts to 202 N´m (149 ft. lbs.
(10) Install the washer and axle nut and tighten a
beginning torque of 179 N´m (132 ft. lbs.).
(11) Rotate the axle 5 to 10 times to seat the hub
bearing.
(12) Tighten to a final torque of 356 N´m (263 ft.
lbs.).
(13) Align the axle nut to the next forward cotter
pin hole and install a new cotter pin in the axle nut.
(14) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.
(16) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(17) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(18) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
LOWER BALL JOINT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove lower snap ring from the lower ball
joint (Fig. 11).
(2) Position special tool 8975±2 (RECEIVER) and
8975±4 (DRIVER) with tool C4212±F as shown to
remove lower ball stud (Fig. 12).
Fig. 9 Brake Shield
1 - BRAKE SHIELD
2 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 10 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
Fig. 11 LOWER SNAP RING
2 - 32 FRONT - LINK/COILDR
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension system uses a multi-leaf
springs and a solid drive axle. The forward end of the
springs are mounted to the body rail hangers
through rubber bushings. The rearward end of the
springs are attached to the body by the use of shack-
les. The spring and shackles use rubber bushings.
OPERATION
The springs control ride quality and maintain vehi-
cle ride height. The shackles allow the springs to
change their length as the vehicle moves over various
road conditions.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the axle with a suitable holding fix-
ture.
(3) Remove the nuts, spring clamp bolts and the
plate that attach the spring to the axle (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove the nuts and bolts from the spring
front and rear shackle (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove the spring from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position spring on axle shaft tube so spring
center bolt is inserted into the locating hole in the
axle tube.
(2)
Align the front of the spring with the bolt hole in
the front bracket. Install the eye pivot bolt and nut.
(3) Align the rear of the spring into the shackle
and install the bolt and nut.
(4) Tighten the spring front and rear eye pivot bolt
snug do not torque.
(5) Install the spring clamp bolts, plate and the
retaining nuts.
(6) Remove the holding fixture for the rear axle.
(7) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle so
that the weight is being supported by the tires.
(8) Tighten the spring clamp retaining nuts to 149
N´m (110 ft. lbs.).
(9) Tighten the spring front and rear pivot bolt
nuts to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove both rear tireand wheel assemblies
(3)
Position a large C-Clamp adjacent to the spring
clinch clip and clamp the leaves of the spring together
CAUTION: When working on the front leaf spring
clinch clamps finish the front before starting on the
rear to prevent personal injury.
(4) Use an appropriate pry bar to bend open the
spring clinch clip (Fig. 5). If necessary, remove the
existing spring clinch clip isolators.
Fig. 4 REAR SPRING
1 - LEAF SPRING
2 - PLATE
3 - NUTS
4 - FRONT NUT & BOLT
5 - SPRING CLAMP BOLTS
6 - SHACKLES
Fig. 5 C-CLAMP AND PRY BAR
1 - REAR LEAF SPRING CLINCH CLAMP
2-PRYBAR
3 - C-CLAMP
DRREAR 2 - 41

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT......................1
HALF SHAFT...........................11
FRONT AXLE - C205F....................18
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA...................45REAR AXLE-91/4.......................69
REAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA..................100
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA..................127
PROPELLER SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................1
STANDARD PROCEDURE.................3
SPECIFICATIONS........................6
SPECIAL TOOLS........................6
FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................7
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL.............................7INSTALLATION..........................8
CENTER BEARING
REMOVAL.............................8
INSTALLATION..........................8
ADJUSTMENTS.........................8
SINGLE CARDAN UNIVERSAL JOINTS
DISASSEMBLY..........................9
ASSEMBLY.............................9
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PROPELLER SHAFT VIBRATION
Tires that are out-of-round or wheels that are
unbalanced, will cause a low frequency vibration.
Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a
harsh, low frequency vibration.Driveline vibration can also result from loose or
damaged engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases as the vehicle
speed is increased. A vibration that occurs within a
specific speed range is not usually caused by a pro-
peller shaft being unbalanced. Defective universal
joints or an incorrect propeller shaft angle are usu-
ally the cause of such a vibration.
DRDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as
necessary.
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some
vibrations.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being unbalanced,
it can be verified with the following procedure:
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Clean all the foreign material from the propel-
ler shaft and the universal joints.
(3) Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.If the pro-
peller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the universal joints to ensure that they
are not worn, are properly installed, and are cor-
rectly aligned with the shaft.
(5) Check the universal joint clamp screws torque.
(6) Remove the wheels and tires. Install the wheel
lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.
(7) Mark and number the shaft six inches from the
yoke end at four positions 90É apart.(8) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(9) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/2 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTDR
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
PROPELLER SHAFT RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE
This procedure applies to both the front/rear pro-
peller shafts. To obtain the front output angle (A) on
the front propeller shaft, place the inclinometer the
machined surface of the C/V joint.
(1) To check driveline alignment, raise and support
the vehicle at the axles as level as possible. Allow the
wheels and propeller shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings, if
equipped from universal joint so protractor base sits
flat.
Fig. 1 CLAMP SCREW AT POSITION 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMP SCREWS
Fig. 3 CLAMP SCREWS SEPARATED
1-1¤2INCH
DRPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

HALF SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION.............................11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................11
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................12
SPECIFICATIONS.......................12
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................12CV JOINT-OUTER
REMOVAL.............................13
INSTALLATION.........................13
CV JOINT-INNER
REMOVAL.............................16
INSTALLATION.........................16
HALF SHAFT
CAUTION
CAUTION:: Never grasp half shaft assembly by the
boots. This may cause the boot to pucker or crease
and reduce the service life of the boot.
Avoid over angulating or stroking the C/V joints
when handling the half shaft.
Half shafts exposed to battery acid, transmission
fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid or gasoline may
cause the boots to deteriorate.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check for grease at the inboard and outboard C/V
joint. This is a sign of boot or boot clamp damage.
NOISE/VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise or a vibration in turns could be
caused by a damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint
seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the
loss/contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint. Noise could also
be caused by another component of the vehicle com-
ing in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of a damaged or worn
C/V joint. A torn boot or loose/missing clamp on the
inner/outer joint which has allowed the grease to be
lost will damage the C/V joint.
SHUDDER/VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of a worn/damaged
inner tripod joint or a sticking tripod joint. Improper
wheel alignment may also cause a shudder or vibra-
tion.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of out of balance
front tires or tire/wheel runout. Foreign material
(mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s)
will also cause a vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Loosen lug nuts and hub nut while the with
the vehicle brakes applied.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly
(4) Remove half shaft hub nut.
(5) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(6) Position hydraulic jack under lower suspension
arm and raise jack to unload rebound bumper.
(7) Remove lower shock absorber bolt.
(8) Remove upper ball joint nut and seperate ball
with Remover 8677 (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 UPPER BALL JOINT SEPARATION
1 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
2 - REMOVER
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
DRHALF SHAFT 3 - 11

tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged) can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
DRFRONT AXLE - C205F 3 - 19
FRONT AXLE - C205F (Continued)

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheels and tires.
(2) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(3) Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensors.
(4) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(5) Remove front propeller shaft.
(6) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(8) Disconnect track bar from the axle bracket.
(9) Disconnect tie rod and drag link from the steer-
ing knuckles.
(10) Position suitable lifting device under the axle
assembly.
(11) Secure axle to lifting device.
(12) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
(13) Disconnect upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle bracket.(14) Lower the axle. The coil springs will drop
with the axle.
(15) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the weight of the
vehicle on the suspension, at normal height. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur. Rubber bushings must never
be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a suitable lifting device.
(2) Secure axle to lifting device.
(3) Position the axle under the vehicle.
(4) Install springs, retainer clip and bolts.
(5) Raise axle and align it with the spring pads.
3 - 48 FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AADR
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)