Oss DODGE RAM 2003 Service Workshop Manual

(10) Remove lifting device from axle and lower the
vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
Ring and pinion gears are supplied as matched
sets only. Compensation for pinion depth variance is
achieved with a select shim. The shim is located
between the rear pinion bearing and the pinion gear
head.
PINION DEPTH MEASUREMENT AND ADJUSTMENT
Measurements are taken with pinion bearing cups
and pinion bearings installed in the housing. Take
measurements with Pinion Gauge Set and Dial Indi-
cator C-3339 (Fig. 1).
(1) Assemble Pinion Height Block 6739, Pinion
Block 8897 and rear pinion bearing onto Screw 6741
(Fig. 1).
(2) Insert assembled height gauge components,
rear bearing and screw into the housing through pin-
ion bearing cups (Fig. 2).
(3) Install front pinion bearing and install the
Cone-nut 6740 hand tight. Then check tool rotating
torque with an inch pound torque wrench. The rotat-
ing torque should be 1.7-2.26 N´m (15-20 in. lbs.).
(Fig. 1).(4) Place Arbor Discs 8289 on Arbor D-115-3 in
position in the housing side bearing cradles (Fig. 3).
(5) Install differential bearing caps on arbor discs
and snug the bearing cap bolts. Then cross tighten
cap bolts to 281 N´m (207 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Arbor should rotate freely in the arbor discs.
(6) Assemble Dial Indicator C-3339 into Scooter
Block D-115-2 and secure set screw.
(7) Position Scooter Block/Dial Indicator flush on
the pinion height block. Hold scooter block and zero
the dial indicator.
Fig. 1 PINION GEAR DEPTH GAUGE TOOLS
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
2 - ARBOR
3 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
4 - CONE
5 - SCREW
6 - PINION BLOCK
7 - SCOOTER BLOCK
8 - ARBOR DISC
Fig. 2 PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
1 - PINION BLOCK
2 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
Fig. 3 GAUGE TOOLS IN HOUSING
1 - ARBOR DISC
2 - PINION BLOCK
3 - ARBOR
4 - PINION HEIGHT BLOCK
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 131
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

(8) Slowly slide the scooter block across the pinion
height block over to the arbor (Fig. 4). Move the
scooter block till dial indicator crests the arbor, then
record the highest reading.
(9) Select a shim equal to the dial indicator read-
ing.
(10) Install the select shim between the rear pin-
ion bearing and the pinion gear head.
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARING PRELOAD AND
GEAR BACKLASH
Backlash is adjusted by moving the adjusters in
and out or both. By moving the adjusters the case/
ring gear will move closer or further away from the
pinion. In most cases this adjustment can be used to
achieve the correct gear tooth pattern and set the
case bearing preload.
(1) Remove adjuster lock bolts and adjuster locks
(Fig. 5).
(2) Loosen the differential bearing caps.
(3) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(4) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 (Fig. 6) until they make contact with the differ-
ential bearings/cups.
(5) Back off the ring gear side adjuster 4 holes, to
obtain initial ring gear backlash.
(6) Install ring gear side adjuster lock and bolt. Do
not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
(7) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster firmly
against the differential case bearing cup.
(8) Rotate the pinion several times to seat the def-
erential bearings.(9) Loosen pinion gear side adjuster until it is no
longer in contact with the bearing cup, then tighten
it until it makes contact.
(10) Tighten pinion gear side adjuster an addi-
tional:
²New Bearings:6 Adjuster Holes
²Original Bearings:4 Adjuster Holes
(11) Install pinion gear side adjuster lock and bolt.
Do not tighten adjuster lock bolt at this time.
Fig. 4 PINION GEAR DEPTH MEASUREMENT
1 - ARBOR
2 - SCOOTER BLOCK
3 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 5 ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - ADJUSTER LOCK
3 - ADJUSTER LOCK BOLT
4 - BEARING CAP BOLT
Fig. 6 ADJUSTER SPANNER WRENCH
1 - WRENCH
2 - DIFFERENTIAL
3 - 132 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA (Continued)

cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 36).(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 37).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
Fig. 36 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEDR
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
(2) With the engine off depress the brake pedal
several times to discharge the accumulator. Grasp
the accumulator and see if it wobbles or turns. If it
does the accumulator has lost a gas charge and the
booster must be replaced.
SEAL LEAKAGE
If the booster leaks from any of the seals the
booster assembly must be replaced (Fig. 48).²INPUT ROD SEAL:Fluid leakage from rear
end of the booster.
²PISTON SEAL:Fluid leakage from vent at
front of booster.
²HOUSING SEAL:Fluid leakage between hous-
ing and housing cover.
²SPOOL VALVE SEAL:Fluid leakage near
spool plug.
²RETURN PORT FITTING SEAL:Fluid leak-
age from port fitting.
HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster.
Excessive Brake Pedal
Effort.1. Internal or external seal leakage. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty steering pump. 2. Replace pump.
Fig. 48 Hydraulic Booster Seals
1 - PUMP
2 - GEAR
3 - INPUT SEAL
4 - HOUSING SEAL
5 - ACCUMULATOR SEAL
6 - PISTON SEAL
7 - SPOOL PLUG SEAL
8 - RETURN
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEDR
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Brakes Self Apply 1. Dump valve faulty. 1. Replace booster.
2. Contamination in hydraulic
system.2. Flush hydraulic system and replace
booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
Booster Chatter, Pedal
Vibration1. Slipping pump belt. 1. Replace power steering belt.
2. Low pump fluid level. 2. Fill pump and check for leaks.
Grabbing Brakes 1. Low pump flow. 1. Test and repair/replace pump.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 49).(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal.
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster.INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hydraulic booster and tighten the
mounting nuts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the booster push rod, washer and clip
onto the brake pedal.
(3) Install the master cylinder on the mounting
studs. and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 N´m (17
ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake lines to the master cylinder
and tighten to 19-200 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic booster line bracket onto
the master cylinder mounting studs.
(6) Install the master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 49 HYDRO-BOOST UNIT
1 - INLET HOSE
2 - HYDRO-BOOST UNIT
3 - MASTER CYLINDER UNIT
4 - RETURN HOSE
5 - OUTLET HOSE
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(6) Install the right cable to the front cable.
(7) Adjust the brake cable at the equalizer and
using the adjuster nut.
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE
(1) Install the brake cable to the brake lever (Fig.
61).
(2) Install the brake cable to the frame bracket.
(3) Install the left brake cable to the equalizer.
(4) Adjust the brake cable at the equalizer and
adjuster nut.
SHOES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the disc brake rotor, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(5) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 63).
(6) Disengage the park brake cable from behind
the rotor assembly to allow easier disassembly of the
park brake shoes (Fig. 64).
(7) Remove the axleshaft (Fig. 65) (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE - 9 1/4/
AXLE SHAFTS - REMOVAL).
(8) Disassemble the rear park brake shoes (Fig.
56).
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
Clean the individual brake components, including
the support plate exterior, with a water dampened
cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not use any other
cleaning agents. Remove light rust and scale from
the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate
with fine sandpaper.
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE
As a general rule, riveted brake shoes should be
replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 in.) of
the rivet heads. Bonded lining should be replaced
when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
Fig. 62 PARKING BRAKE CABLE
1 - SUPPORT PLAT
2 - CABLE
3 - LEVER
Fig. 63 LOCK OUT PARKING CABLE
1 - LOCKING PLIERS
2 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
Fig. 64 DISENGAGEMENT OF CABLE
1 - LEVER
2 - CABLE END
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 33
CABLES (Continued)

NOTE: When measuring the brake drum diameter,
the diameter should be measured in the center of
the area in which the park brake shoes contact the
surface of the brake drum.
(5) Using Brake Shoe Gauge, Special Tool C-3919,
or equivalent,accuratelymeasure the inside diam-
eter of the park brake drum portion of the rotor (Fig.
67).
(6) Using a ruler that reads in 64th of an inch,
accurately read the measurement of the inside diam-
eter of the park brake drum from the special tool
(Fig. 68).
(7) Reduce the inside diameter measurement of
the brake drum that was taken using Special Tool
C-3919 by 1/64 of an inch. Reset Gauge, Brake Shoe,
Special Tool C-3919 or the equivalent used, so that
the outside measurement jaws are set to the reduced
measurement (Fig. 69).(8) Place Gauge, Brake Shoe, Special Tool C-3919,
or equivalent over the park brake shoes. The special
tool must be located diagonally across at the top of
one shoe and bottom of opposite shoe (widest point)
of the park brake shoes.
(9) Using the star wheel adjuster, adjust the park
brake shoes until the lining on the park brake shoes
just touches the jaws on the special tool.
(10) Repeat step 8 above and measure shoes in
both directions.
(11) Install brake rotor on the axleshaft (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(12) Rotate rotor to verify that the park brake
shoes are not dragging on the brake drum. If park
brake shoes are dragging, remove rotor and back off
star wheel adjuster one notch and recheck for brake
shoe drag against drum. Continue with the previous
step until brake shoes are not dragging on brake
drum.
(13) Install disc brake caliper on caliper adapter
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install wheel and tire.
(15) Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the
proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
specified torque. Then repeat the tightening sequence
to the full specified torque of 129 N´m (95 ft. lbs.).
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Apply and release the park brake pedal one
time. This will seat and correctly adjust the park
brake cables.
CAUTION: Before moving vehicle, pump brake
pedal several times to ensure the vehicle has a firm
enough pedal to stop the vehicle.
Fig. 67 Measuring Park Brake Drum Diameter
Fig. 68 Reading Park Brake Drum Diameter
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3919
2 - RULER
Fig. 69 Setting Gauge To Park Brake Shoe
Measurement
1 - RULER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3919
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 35
SHOES (Continued)

DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
RWAL Valve
Brake Line Fittings19 Ð 170
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Mounting Bolt24 Ð 200
FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The ABS brake system uses 3 wheel speed sensors.
A sensor is mounted to each front hub/bearings. The
third sensor is mounted on top of the rear axle dif-
ferential housing.
OPERATION
The Wheel Speed Sensor consists of a magnet sur-
rounded by windings from a single strand of wire.
The sensor sends a small AC signal to the CAB. This
signal is generated by magnetic induction. The mag-
netic induction is created when a toothed sensor ring
(exciter ring or tone wheel) passes the stationary
magnetic WSS.
When the ring gear is rotated, the exciter ring
passes the tip of the WSS. As the exciter ring tooth
approaches the tip of the WSS, the magnetic lines of
force expand, causing the magnetic field to cut across
the sensor's windings. This, in turn causes current to
flow through the WSS circuit (Fig. 1) in one direc-
tion. When the exciter ring tooth moves away from
the sensor tip, the magnetic lines of force collapse
cutting the winding in the opposite direction. This
causes the current to flow in the opposite direction.
Every time a tooth of the exciter ring passes the tip
of the WSS, an AC signal is generated. Each AC sig-
nal (positive to negative signal or sinewave) is inter-
preted by the CAB. It then compares the frequency of
the sinewave to a time value to calculate vehicle
speed. The CAB continues to monitor the frequency
to determine a deceleration rate that would indicate
a possible wheel-locking tendency.
The signal strength of any magnetic induction sen-
sor is directly affected by:
²Magnetic field strength; the stronger the mag-
netic field, the stronger the signal
²Number of windings in the sensor; more wind-
ings provide a stronger signal
²Exciter ring speed; the faster the exciter ring/
tone wheel rotates, the stronger the signal will be
²Distance between the exciter ring teeth and
WSS; the closer the WSS is to the exciter ring/tone
wheel, the stronger the signal will be
The rear WSS is not adjustable. A clearance speci-
fication has been established for manufacturing toler-ances. If the clearance is not within these
specifications, then either the WSS or other compo-
nents may be damaged. The clearance between the
WSS and the exciter ring is 0.005 ± 0.050 in.
The assembly plant performs a ªRolls Testº on
every vehicle that leaves the assembly plant. One of
the test performed is a test of the WSS. To properly
test the sensor, the assembly plant connects test
equipment to the Data Link Connector (DLC). This
connector is located to the right of the steering col-
umn and attached to the lower portion of the instru-
ment panel (Fig. 2). The rolls test terminal is spliced
to the WSS circuit. The vehicle is then driven on a
set of rollers and the WSS output is monitored for
proper operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the front rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
from the hub. (Fig. 3)
Fig. 1 Operation of the Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - MAGNETIC CORE
2 - CAB
3 - AIR GAP
4 - EXCITER RING
5 - COIL
DRBRAKES - ABS 5 - 41
BRAKES - ABS (Continued)

CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with turning equipment. Remove only
enough material to reduce scoring (approximately
0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal isnot rec-
ommended.Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the fly-
wheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction.
Fault conditions are listed at the top of each chart.
Conditions, causes and corrective action are outlined
in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
DRCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Flywheel below minimum thickness
specification.1. Improper flywheel machining.
Flywheel has excessive taper or
excessive material removal.1. Replace flywheel.
Clutch disc, cover and/or diaphragm
spring warped or distorted.1. Rough handling. Impact bent
cover, spring, or disc.1. Replace disc or cover as
necessary.
2. Improper bolt tightening
procedure.2. Tighten clutch cover using proper
procedure.
Facing on flywheel side of disc torn,
gouged, or worn.1. Flywheel surface scored or
nicked.1. Correct surface condition if
possible. Replace flywheel and disc
as necessary.
2. Clutch disc sticking or binding on
transmission input shaft.2. Inspect components and
correct/replace as necessary.
Clutch disc facing burnt. Flywheel
and cover pressure plate surfaces
heavily glazed.1. Frequent operation under high
loads or hard acceleration
conditions.1. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips)
clutch. Results in rapid wear and
overheating of disc and cover.2. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
Clutch disc binds on input shaft
splines.1. Clutch disc hub splines damaged
during installation.1. Clean, smooth, and lubricate hub
splines if possible. Replace disc if
necessary.
2. Input shaft splines rough,
damaged, or corroded.2. Clean, smooth, and lubricate
shaft splines if possible. Replace
input shaft if necessary.
Clutch disc rusted to flywheel and/or
pressure plate.1. Clutch not used for an extended
period of time (e.g. long term
vehicle storage).1. Sand rusted surfaces with 180
grit sanding paper. Replace clutch
cover and flywheel if necessary.
Pilot bearing seized, loose, or rollers
are worn.1. Bearing cocked during
installation.1. Install a new bearing.
2. Bearing defective. 2. Install a new bearing.
3. Bearing not lubricated. 3. Install a new bearing.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Inspect clutch and correct as
necessary. Install and lubricate a
new bearing.
6 - 4 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH (Continued)