automatic transmission DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: DODGE, Model Year: 2006, Model line: RAM SRT-10, Model: DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006Pages: 5267, PDF Size: 68.7 MB
Page 1771 of 5267

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Do not use air tools to install engine lift fix-
ture (2) special tool # 8984.
1. Install engine lift fixture (2), special tool # 8984.Do
not use adapter (4).
2. Position the engine in the engine compartment.
3. Lower engine into compartment and align engine
with transmission:
Manual Transmission: Align clutch disc assembly
(if disturbed). Install transmission input shaft into
clutch disc while mating engine and transmission
surfaces. Install two transmission to engine block
mounting bolts finger tight.
Automatic Transmission: Mate engine and trans-
mission and install two transmission to engine
block mounting bolts finger tight.
4. Position the thru-bolt into the support cushion
brackets.
5. Lower engine assembly until engine mount through
bolts rest in mount perches.
6. Install remaining transmission to engine block
mounting bolts (2) and tighten.
Page 1782 of 5267

DESCRIPTION Nꞏm Ft. In.
Oil Pan—Drain Plug 34 25 —
Oil Pump—Attaching Bolts 28 — 250
Oil Pump Pickup Tube – Bolt and Nut 28 — 250
Rear Seal Retainer Attaching Bolts 15 — 132
Rear Insulator to Bracket— 68 50 —
Through-Bolt (2WD)
Rear Insulator to Crossmember 41 30 —
Support Bracket—Nut (2WD)
Rear Insulator to Crossmember— 68 50 —
Nuts (4WD)
Rear Insulator to Transmission— 68 50 —
Bolts (4WD)
Rear Insulator Bracket—Bolts 68 50 —
(4WD Automatic)
Rear Support Bracket to 41 30 —
Crossmember Flange—Nuts
Rear Support Plate to Transfer 41 30 —
Case—Bolts
Rocker Arm—Bolts 22 — 195
Spark Plugs — — —
Thermostat Housing—Bolts 28 — 250
Throttle Body—Bolts 12 — 105
Transfer Case to Insulator 204 105 —
Mounting Plate—Nuts
Transmission Support Bracket— 68 50 —
Bolts (2WD)
Vibration Damper—Bolt 176 129 —
Water Pump to Timing Chain 28 — 250
Case Cover—Bolts
Page 1850 of 5267

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL - SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the transmission. (Refer to 21 - TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 -
REMOVAL).
3. Remove the flexplate. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
5. Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting bolts.
6. Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
1. Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the engine
block.
2. Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue from
the retainer.
3. Position the gasket onto the retainer.
4. Position the retainer onto the engine block.
5. Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts
to 15 Nꞏm (132 in. lbs.) using the procedure shown.
6. Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
7. Install the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - INSTALLATION).
8. Install the transmission (Refer to 21 - TRANSMIS-
SION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 -
INSTALLATION).
9. Check and verify engine oil level.
10. Start engine and check for leaks.
Page 1851 of 5267

FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
1. Remove the transmission. (Refer to 21 - TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 -
REMOVAL).
2. Remove the bolts and flexplate (1).
INSTALLATION
1. Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the crank-
shaft and install the bolts hand tight.
2.For automatic transmissions:Tighten the flex-
plate retaining bolts to 95 Nꞏm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the transmission. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 - INSTALLATION).
Page 1866 of 5267

INSTALLATION
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as described in the following steps. Failure to do so will
cause severe damage to the cover.
1. Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
2. Install all four bolts retaining the cover-to-engine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
3. Install the four cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT tighten at this time.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly against both the engineand the transmission bell hous-
ing during tightening sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to the cover.
4. Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that go
intothetransmissionto6-11Nꞏm(50-100in.lbs.).
5. Torque the (4) structural dust cover bolts that go
into the engine block to 6-11 Nꞏm (50-100 in.lbs.).
6. Starting with the two rearcover-to-engine bolts,
tighten bolts (1) to 54 Nꞏm (40 ft. lbs.), then tighten
bolts(2)and(3)to54Nꞏm(40ft.lbs.)inthe
sequence shown.
7. Install the exhaust pipe on left hand exhaust manifold.
8. Tighten exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe retaining bolts to 20–26 Nꞏm(15–20 ft. lbs.).
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
CAUTION: The 7/16 inch engine block to clutch housing bolts must be loosened before removal/installation
of the structural dust cover. Clutch housing distortion will occur if thisprocedure is not followed.
1. Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as described in the following steps. Failure to do so will
cause severe damage to the cover, and engine noise.
Page 1913 of 5267

MoparEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the
air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After
one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
AT F R T V
Mopar
ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties
to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is avail-
able in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year thismaterial will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR
GASKET MAKER
Mopar
Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when
squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for
use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR
GASKET SEALANT
Mopar
Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material isrecommended for sealing
threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts
under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layersteel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar
Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can
w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket requires care but it’s easier than using precut gaskets.
Mopar
Gasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one
gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3
mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a 3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.)
drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant maybe removed with a shop towel. Com-
ponents should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both
surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can
be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can shouldbeusedonengineswithmulti-
layer steel gaskets.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consistsof:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE—HYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what causedthe problem), follow the steps below.
1. Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the battery.
2. Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.
Page 1915 of 5267

11. Remove fan shroud mounting bracket (3) and
shroud. Refer to (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
12. Remove radiator upper hose.
13. Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose from
the radiator fill neck.
14. Disconnect heater core supply and return hoses
from the cylinder head fitting and coolant pipe.
15. Raise vehicle on a hoist.
16. Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
17. Disconnect exhaust pipe from turbocharger exten-
sion pipe.
18. Disconnect engine harness to vehicle harness
connectors.
19. Remove starter motor (2) (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
20. Remove flywheel/flexplate.
21. Remove transmission adapter.
22. Disconnect A/C suction/discharge hose from the rear of the A/C compressor.
23. Lower vehicle.
24. Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator outlet.
25.Automatic transmission models:
26. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from in front of radiator using special tool #6931
27. Remove radiator. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
28. If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser refrigerant lines.
Page 1966 of 5267

CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK)
REMOVAL
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
NOTE: Measure the diameter of each bore. If the camshaft bore for the cam bushing is worn beyond the
limit, install a new service bushing. Inspect the rest of the camshaft bores for damage or excessive wear.If
the bores without a bushing are worn beyond the limit, the engine must be removed for machining and
installation of service bushings. If badly worn, replace the cylinder block.
1. Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) -
REMOVAL).
2. Remove the bushing from the No.1 bore.
3. Mark the cylinder block so you can align the oil hole in the cylinder blockwith the oil hole in the bushing.
CAMSHAFT
1. Disconnect both battery negative cables.
2. Recover A/C refrigerant (if A/C equipped) (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Remove radiator upper hose.
7. Remove viscous fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
8. Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose from the radiator filler neck.
9. Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator outlet.
10.Automatic Transmission models:Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from front of radiator using Special
Tool 6931 (unless equipped with finger-release disconnect).
11. Remove radiator mounting screws and lift radiator out of engine compartment.
12. Remove upper radiator support panel.
13. If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser refrigerant lines.
14. Disconnect charge air cooler piping from the cooler inlet and outlet.
15. Remove the two charge air cooler mounting bolts.
16. Remove charge air cooler (and A/C condenser if equipped) from vehicle.
17. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
18. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
19. Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
20. Remove crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
21. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar
the sealing surfaces. Remove dust seal with cover.
22. Using Special Tool 7471–B Crankshaft Barring Tool, rotate the crankshaft to align the timing marks on the
crankshaft and the camshaft gears.
23. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
Page 1981 of 5267

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on out-
side diameter of seal to ease assembly.
5. Make sure the provided seal pilot (1) is installed
into the new crankshaft seal (3). Use the align-
ment/installation tool and press the seal onto the
crankshaft. Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o’clock positions.
6. Remove the alignment tool and trim the retainer
gasket (1) even with the oil pan mounting surface.
7. Remove the seal pilot.
8. Apply a small amount of Mopar
Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
9. Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts and
torque to 28 Nꞏm (21 ft. lbs.).
10. Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
11. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
12. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early
or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse
clamping ring.
13. Install the dual mass flywheel with crankshaft adapter. Tighten boltsto 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
14. Install the starter motor Refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STA R T E R M O TO R - I N S TA L L AT I O N ) .
15. Install the transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
16. Lower vehicle.
17. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
18. Connect the battery negative cables.
19. Start engine and check for oil leaks.
Page 2005 of 5267

PA N - E N G I N E O I L
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Install engine support fixture # 8534.
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
5. Remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
6. Remove flywheel or flexplate.
7. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -REMOVAL) and transmission
adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
8. Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
9. Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface is not damaged and tighten to 50 Nꞏm (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block seal, and lower pan slightlyandremoveoilsuctiontubefasteners.
11. Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be required
around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces for cracks and damage. Replace any defective component.
Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for straightness. Repair any
minor imperfections with a ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
1. Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use MoparSilicone
Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
2. Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them into place. Slide oil pan gasket into postion.Using a new tube to
block gasket, install and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Startingwith the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the
bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube brace boltsto 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Starting in the center and working outward, tighten the oil pan bolts to 28Nꞏm(21ft.lbs.)torque.
4. Install the flywheel housing assembly with the starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 Nꞏm (57 ft. lbs.)
torque.
5. Connect starter motor cables.
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse clamp-
ing ring.
6. Install the flywheel to crankshaft adapter. Torque to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
7. Install transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
10. Install battery negative cables.
11. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
12. Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine, check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.