oil dipstick DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Owner's Manual
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Page 2002 of 5267

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL LEVEL
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine
oil, oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine
oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The
acceptable oil level is in the SAFE RANGE (3) on the
engine oil dipstick.
1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately 15 minutes
for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Replace dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the SAFE RANGE area on the dipstick.
7. Replace dipstick.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL SERVICE
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
NOTE: Change engine oil and filter at intervals specified in the owner’s manual.
1. Operate the engine until the water temperature reaches 60°C (140°F). Shut the engine off.
2. Use a container that can hold at least 14 liters (15 quarts) to hold the used oil. Remove the oil drain plug and
drain the used engine oil into the container.
3. Always check the condition of the used oil. This can give you an indication of engine problems that might exist.
Thin, black oil indicates fuel dilution.
Milky discoloration indicates coolant dilution.
4. Clean the area around the oil filter head. Remove the filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER -
REMOVAL).
5. Install new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTA L L AT I O N ) .
6. Clean the drain plug and the sealing surface of the pan. Check the condition of the threads and sealing surface
on the oil pan and drain plug.
7. Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 50 Nꞏm (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
8. Use only High-Quality Multi-Viscosity lubricating oil in the Cummins Turbo Diesel engine. Choose the correct oil
for the operating conditions (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
9. Fill the engine with the correct grade of new oil (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID CAPACITIES
- SPECIFICATIONS).
10. Start the engine and operate it at idle for several minutes. Check for leaks at the filter and drain plug.
11. Stop engine. Wait 15 minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the pan and check the level again.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing of used engine oil after it has beendrained from a vehicle’s engine.
Page 2011 of 5267

MANIFOLD - INTAKE
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the charge air cooler outlet tube (6) from
the air inlet housing (8).
3. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube mounting bolt.
4. Remove dipstick support at fuel filter housing. Posi-
tion dipstick tube to the side.
5. Disconnect the air grid heater power cables at the
cable mounting studs.
6. Remove the engine wiring harness connections at
the air inlet housing elbow.
7. Remove the four (4) air inlet housing mounting
bolts and remove the housing from top of the
heater elements.
8. Remove the intake air grid heater (1)from the
manifold.
9. Remove the high pressure fuel lines and fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL LINES
- REMOVAL).
10. Disconnect manifold air temperature/pressure sensor connector.
11. Remove the remaining intake manifold cover-to-cylinder head bolts.
12. Remove the intake manifold cover and gasket. Keep the gasket material and any other material out of the air
intake.
13. Clean the intake manifold cover and cylinder head sealing surface.
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CLEANING
Clean manifold in solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
Clean cylinder block gasket surfaces using a suitable solvent.
The plenum pan rail must be clean and dry (free of all foreign material).
INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness with a straightedge.
INSTALLATION
1. Using a new gasket, install the intake manifold cover.
2. Install the cover-to-cylinder head bolts that do not hold down the fuel rail.Tightentheboltsto24Nꞏm(18ft.lbs.)
torque.
3. Install the high pressure rail and fuel lines (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL LINES -
INSTALLATION).
4. Using two (2) new gaskets, install the intake air grid heater and air inlet housing.
5. Connect the manifold air temperature/pressure sensor connector.
6. Install and tighten the air intake heater power supply nut to 14 Nꞏm (120 in. lbs.) torque.
7. Install oil dipstick tube support at fuel filter housing.
8. Install the engine oil dipstick tube and mounting bolt.
9. Position the charge air cooler outlet tube onto the air inlet housing. Tightentheclampsto11Nꞏm(100in.lbs.)
torque.
10. Attach the engine wire harness to the air inlet housing.
11. Prime the fuel system. Refer to the fuel priming procedure in Group 14, Fuel System.
12. Connect the battery negative cables.
Page 2029 of 5267

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent.
Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
HYDRAULIC TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
PRELIMINARY STEP TO CHECKING THE HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkengine oil level and oil pressure.
1. Check the engine oil level.
Oil Level Check: stop engine after reaching normal operating temperature
The oil level should never be above the FULL mark on dipstick, or below the ADD mark. Either of
these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick.
2. Remove oil pressure sensor.
3. Install a reliable oil pressure gauge at oil pressure sensor location.
The oil pressure should be 206.8 - 551.6 kPa (30 - 80 psi) at 2000 rpm.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark on dipstick, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while engine
is running and create foam. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
become soft and allow valves to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which when fed to the tappets, causes them to become soft and allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of pump through which air canbedrawnwillcreatethesametappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all of the air
inside of the tappets to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE DIAGNOSIS
To determine source of valve train noise, operate engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and listen for
source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noise isusually caused by excessive leak-down
around the unit plunger which will necessitate replacing the tappet, or bythe plunger partially sticking in the tappet
body cylinder. A heavy click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body causing the plunger to stickin the down position. This heavy click
will be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed and replaced.
ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
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3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.
5.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method
as follows:
1. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the cylinder head covers and plug or cap the outlet on the covers.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 kPa (1 psi) to 17.23 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water
at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, allplugs, and caps. Connect the PCV
hoses. Proceed to next step.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to oil pan location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove
tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch housing inspection cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check
for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection.
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug or rear
crankshaft seal retainer gasket leak. See proper repair procedures for these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as
necessary.
Page 2086 of 5267

LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The engine lubrication system is a full-flow filtration pressure feed type.
OPERATION
Engine oil stored in the oil pan is taken in and discharged by an internal geartypeoilpump,whichisdrivenbythe
crankshaft. A pressure relief valve is located in the timing chain case cover; it regulates oil pressure. The oil is
pumped through an oil filter and feeds a main oil gallery. Also, oil is routedtoanexternaloilcooler.Themainoil
gallery feeds oil under pressure to the main bearings, connecting rod bearings, and camshaft bearings. Passages in
the cylinder block feed oil to the hydraulic lifters. The oil then flows through hollow pushrods, which feed the rocker
arm pivots.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sensor (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
2. Install oil pressure gauge.
3. Warm engine at high idle until thermostat opens.
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, Do Not Run engine at 3000 RPM.
4. Oil pressure should be 68.9 kPa (10 psi) at idle or 310 - 517 kPa (45 - 75 psi)at 3000 RPM.
5. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open.
ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 - 17.23 kPa (1 - 2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water at the
suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure thatprovide the best bubbles which will pin-
point the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
5. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve.
6. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
Page 2398 of 5267

3. Lift 2 rubber covers (3) to gain access to 2 positive
(+) cable nuts.
4. Remove cable nut (6) (Fig #. ) and remove cable
from stud.
5. Remove wiring harness clips.
6. Remove engine oil dipstick tube bracket from air
inlet connection and fuel filter housing.
7. Remove four housing mounting bolts (1) and
remove heater element assembly.
Page 2399 of 5267

INSTALLATION
If servicing the heater element, the entire block/ele-
ment assembly must be replaced.
CAUTION: The heater elements are no longer
grounded using an external ground strap. Ground-
ing is now accomplished using two electrically
conductive gaskets. Failure to use these gaskets
will result in faulty heater element operation.
1. Using 2 new gaskets, position element assembly
and air housing to intake manifold (2).
2. Install wire harness clips to intake connection stud.
3. Install 4 housing bolts (1) and tighten to 24 Nꞏm
(18 ft. lbs.) torque.
4. Connect 2 positive (+) heater cables (6) at cable
mounting studs.Do not allow either of the cable
eyelets to contact any other metal source other
than the cable nuts/studs.
5. Install engine oil dipstick tube and mounting bolt
(5).
6. Connect rubber connector hose and intake tube to
air intake housing. Tighten clamp bolts to 11 Nꞏm
(100 in. lbs.) torque.
7. Connect both negative battery cables at both
batteries.
Page 2483 of 5267

1. Raise the front end of the vehicle off the ground until the wheels are freeto turn.
2. Remove the return line from the pump.
NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic booster remove both return lines from the pump.
3. Plug the return line port/ports at the pump.
4. Position the return line/lines into a large container to catch the fluid.
5. While an assistant is filling the pump reservoir start the engine.
6. With the engine running at idle turn the wheel back and forth.
NOTE: Do not contact or hold the wheel against the steering stops.
7. Run a quart of fluid through the system then stop the engine and install the return line/lines.
8. Fill the system with fluid and perform Steering Pump Initial Operation,(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
9. Start the engine and run it for fifteen minutes then stop the engine.
10. Remove the return line/lines from the pump and plug the pump port/ports.
11. Pour fresh fluid into the reservoir and check the draining fluid for contamination. If the fluid is still contaminated,
then flush the system again.
12. Install the return line/lines and perform Steering Pump Initial Operation, (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
POWER STEERING PUMP - INITIAL OPERATION
WARNING: THE FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED WITH ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT INJURYFROMMOV-
ING COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: MOPAR
ATF+4 is to be used in the power steering system. No other power steering or auto-
matic transmission fluid is to be used in the system. Damage may result to the power steering pump and
system if any other fluid is used, and do not overfill.
Wipe filler cap clean, then check the fluid level. The dipstick should indicateCOLDwhen the fluid is at normal
temperature.
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the left.
2. Fill reservoir up to FULL HOT level and crank engine until it just starts.(DO NOT TURN STEERING WHEEL).
Then turn vehicle off. And recheck fluid level, to Full COLD.
3. Crank engine again until it just starts, (DO NOT MOVE STEERING WHEEL). and turn vehicle off. Recheck fluid
leveltoFullCOLD.
4. Turn engine on again, (DO NOT MOVE STEERING WHEEL) and let the vehicle idle for 5 minutes. If possible
apply a 20 in-Hg vacuum to the reservoir, while engine is idling.
5. Turn engine off and recheck fluid level, to FULL COLD.
6.If the Steering gear is replacedensure reservoir is at FULL HOT level, start engine and turn wheel to left. Stop
Engine and recheck fluid level to FULL HOT. Start engine and turn wheel to the right. Stop engine and check
fluid level is at FULL COLD.
7. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settlefor at least two (2) minutes.
8. Start the engine. With the engine idling maintain the fluid level.
9. Raise the front wheels off the ground.
10. Slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 20 times with the engine off while checking the fluid level.
NOTE: For vehicles with long return lines or oil coolers turn wheel 40 times.
11. Lower the front wheels and let the engine idle for two minutes.
12. Turn the steering wheel in both direction and verify power assist and quiet operation of the pump.
If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow the vehicle to standa few minutes and repeat the procedure.
Page 2487 of 5267

FLUID
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: It is normal that some pressure will build up inside the reservoir, especially, with a warm vehicle. A
slight popping noise upon removal ofthe cap is normal. The fluid level should read between the ADD and
the FULL COLD marks. When the fluid is hotit should read between ADD and FULLHOT marks. Only add
fluid when the vehicle is cold.
The recommended fluid for the power steering system is Mopar
AT F + 4 .
Mopar
ATF+4, when new is red in color. The ATF+4 is dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the
vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent andis not an indicator of fluid condition, As
the vehicle is driven, the ATF+4 will begin to look darker in color and may eventually become brown.THIS IS NOR-
MAL.ATF+4 also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to
indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL CHECKING
WARNING: FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED WITH THE ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY
FROM MOVING PARTS.
CAUTION: MOPAR
ATF+4 is to be used in the power steering system. No other power steering or auto-
matic transmission fluid is to be used in the system. Damage may result to the power steering pump and
system if any other fluid is used, and do not overfill.
The power steering fluid level can be viewed on the dipstick attached to thefiller cap. There are two ranges listed
on the dipstick, COLD and HOT. Before opening power steering system, wipe the reservoir filler cap free of dirt and
debris. Remove the cap and check the fluid level on its dipstick. When the fluid is at normal ambient temperature,
approximately 21°C to 27°C (70°F to 80°F), the fluid level should read between the minimum and maximum area of
the cold range. When the fluid is hot, fluid level is allowed to read up to thehighest end of the HOT range. Only add
fluid when the vehicle is cold.
Use only Mopar
AT F + 4 .Do not overfill the power steering system.