Bearing DODGE TRUCK 1993 Service Repair Manual

5
- 4
BRAKES

• (3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph (40-64 Km/h) range. Note faulty
brake operation such as pull, grab, drag, noise, low
pedal, etc.
(4) Inspect suspect brake components and refer to
problem diagnosis information for causes of various
brake conditions.

COMPONENT
INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can usu­
ally be located without removing any components. The
area around a leak point will be wet with fluid. The
components at a dragging brake unit (wheel, tire, rotor)
will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo­
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac­

cess.

DIAGNOSING BRAKE
PROBLEMS

PEDAL FALLS
AWAY
A
brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is the result of a system leak. The leak
point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose, or caliper. Internal leakage in the master cylinder caused by
worn or damaged piston cups, may also be the prob­ lem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component. However, internal leakage in
the master cylinder may not be physically evident. Re­ fer to the cylinder test procedure in this section.

LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev­
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the likely causes.
A decrease in fluid level in the master cylinder res­
ervoirs may only be the result of normal lining wear.
Fluid level can be expected to decrease in proportion to wear. It is a result of the outward movement of
caliper and wheel cylinder pistons to compensate for
normal wear. Top off the reservoir fluid level and
check brake operation to verify proper brake action.
SPONGY PEDAL. A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the sys­
tem. Thin brake drums or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a spongy pedal. The proper course
of action is to bleed the system and replace thin drums and suspect quality brake lines and hoses.

HARD PEDAL
OR
HIGH
PEDAL
EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could also be faulty. On diesel engine models, high pedal effort may be
the result of a low vacuum condition. If the booster and check valve are OK, the problem may be related
to a vacuum pump hose, hose connection, hose fit­
ting, pump diaphragm, or drive gear. Vacuum pump output can be checked with a standard vacuum
gauge. Vacuum output should range from 8.5 to 25 inches vacuum. If vacuum pump output is within

limits,
check the power booster and check valve as
described in this section.

BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at
one wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can
be minor or severe enough to overheat the linings,
rotors and drums.
Brake drag can also effect fuel economy. If undetec­
ted, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed as an en­ gine or transmission/torque converter problem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down process. In most

cases,
the rotors, drums, wheels and tires are quite
warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake components will be extremely hot. In se­
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
• seized or improperly adjusted parking brake cables
• loose/worn wheel bearing
• seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
• caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces
• loose caliper mounting bracket
• drum brakeshoes binding on worn or damaged sup­
port plates
• misassembled components. If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder return port, or faulty power booster that binds and does not release.

BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, brake overheating and subse­ quent fade can also be caused by riding the brake
pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops in a short time span, or constant braking on steep moun­
tain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information in
this section for additional causes.

PEDAL
PULSA
TION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, out of round, or worn beyond tolerance limits.

•

BRAKES
5 - 5 Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are loose
wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tires.

PULL A
front pull condition could be the result of con­
taminated lining in one caliper, seized caliper piston,
binding caliper, loose caliper, loose or corroded slide

pins,
improper brakeshoes, or a damaged rotor.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo­
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi­
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops.
The cause is a combination of brake drag fol­
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in fa­
vor of the normally functioning brake unit.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re­
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously damaged).

REAR BRAKE GRAB
OR
PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by an improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cable, contaminated
lining, bent or binding shoes and support plates, or im­
properly assembled components. This is particularly
true when only one rear wheel is involved. However,
when both rear wheels are affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be at fault.

BRAKES
DO NOT
HOLD
AFTER
DRIVING
THROUGH
DEEP
WATER
PUDDLES

This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driv­
ing with the brakes very lightly applied for a few min­

utes.
However, if the lining is thoroughly wet and dirty,
disassembly and cleaning will be necessary.

BRAKE NOISE

Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con­
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded in the brake lining can also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal con­
tact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue, ro­ tors can become so scored that replacement is necessary.
Thump/Clunk

Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre­
quently not caused by brake components. In many

cases,
such noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension, or engine components. How­
ever, calipers that bind on the slide pins, or slide sur­

faces,
can generate a thump or clunk noise. Worn
out, improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled
rear brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.

Chatter
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional
causes of chatter are out of tolerance rotors, brake
lining not securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel
bearings and contaminated brake lining.
Brakelining Contamination Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov­
ered with grease and grit during repair.
Wheel and
Tire
Problems Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and re­ covers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation. A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.

MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates a vacuum leak. Correct any leaks before proceeding. (2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu­
tral (3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted. (4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. (a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). (5) Start engine and note pedal action. (a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6). (b) If pedal is effort is high, or no pedal action is
discernible, power booster or vacuum check valve is
faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat steps (2) through (5).

•

BRAKES
5 - 29 presses the outboard shoe lining against the opposite
side of the rotor to complete braking action.
The application or release of fluid pressure causes
only a very slight movement of the caliper and pis­
ton. At brake release, the piston and caliper return
to the non-applied position.
The brakeshoes do not retract an appreciable dis­
tance from the rotor. The minimal running clearance
between the lining and rotor provides improved re­ sponse and reduced pedal travel. It also helps in pre­
venting dirt and foreign material from lodging
between the shoe and rotor surfaces.

DISC
BRAKE
LINING WEAR COMPENSATION
Normal lining wear is compensated for by extension
of the caliper piston and by lateral movement of the cal­
iper in the adapter. Piston position is also determined
in part by the square cut piston seal (Fig. 4).
Normal disc brake lining wear will cause the cali­
per piston to extend enough to maintain proper pedal height and brake response. The caliper bore will re­ceive the extra fluid needed to compensate for the ad­
ditional piston extension.
As the piston extends during brake application, the
square-cut seal is deflected outward (Fig. 4). When
brake pressure is released, the seal straightens and
returns to a normal relaxed position. Although the amount of seal movement is quite small, it is enough
to retract the piston to the necessary minimum run­
ning clearance.
As lining wear occurs, the fluid level in the front
brake reservoir will decrease. This is a normal con­ dition and only requires adding enough fluid to re­store proper level. However, when the brakeshoes are
replaced and the caliper pistons bottomed in the

bores,
the added fluid must be compensated for to avoid overfill and overflow. Removing a small
amount of fluid from the front brake reservoir before­
hand will prevent this condition.
PISTON CALIPER
DUST BOOT
RN102

Fig.
4 Caliper
Piston
Seal
Operation

DISC
BRAKE INSPECTION
Inspect the disc brake components whenever the
caliper and brakeshoes are removed during service
operations or routine maintenance. Check condition of the rotor, brakeshoe lining, caliper
and brake hoses. Front wheel bearing adjustment and
condition can also be checked at this time. The bearings
should be repacked and adjusted if necessary.

Brakeshoes
With the caliper and brakeshoes on the vehicle,
check running clearance between the rotor and
brakeshoes. The shoe lining should either be in very light contact with the rotor or have a maximum of
0.127 mm (0.005 in.) running clearance. If clearance
exceeds the stated amount, apply the brakes several
times and recheck clearance. If clearance is still ex­ cessive, either the shoes are severely worn or the cal­
iper piston could be binding in the bore.

Hoses
And Adapter Inspect condition of the brake lines and hoses. Re­
place either front hose if cut, torn, or the reinforcing
fabric is visible. Check condition of the metal brake-
lines.
Replace any line that is badly rusted, leaking
or damaged in any way.
Clean and lubricate the slide surfaces of the caliper
and adapter. Use Mopar high temperature grease for
this purpose. Also verify that the caliper adapter
bolts are secure and tightened to proper torque.
Fluid Level Check the master cylinder fluid level. Maintain
fluid level to the bottom of the indicator rings on the
reservoir. Note that front disc brake fluid level can
be expected to drop slightly as normal lining wear occurs. Use Mopar brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE and DOT standards J1703 and DOT 3. Use
clean brake fluid from a sealed container only.

Rotors
Check the rotor surfaces for excessive wear, discol­
oration, scoring, rust, scale, or cracks. Also look for
damaged or severely rusted ventilating segments. If
pedal pulsation was experienced, check wheel bear­ ing adjustment and condition. If the bearings are OK, also check rotor runout and thickness variation.

DISC
BRAKESHOE
REMOVAL
(1) If front brakeshoes are to be replaced, remove
approximately 1/3 of fluid from master cylinder front
brake reservoir with suction gun. (2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove front wheels.
(4) Press caliper pistons to bottom of bore with
large C-clamp. Position clamp screw on outboard
brakeshoe and position clamp frame on rear of cali­
per. (5) Remove bolts securing caliper retainer clips to
caliper. Then remove clips and anti-rattle springs (Fig. 5).

5
- 34
BRAKES

•
boot
>TALLir TOOL
Fig.
19 Seating
Piston
Dust
Boot

(6) Install caliper over rotor and into adapter.
(7) Align caliper in adapter and install caliper re­
tainer clips and anti-rattle springs. Tighten retainer clip screws to 20 N*m (180 in. lbs.) torque.
(8) Connect brake hose to caliper. Tighten fitting
bolt to 47 N»m (35 ft. lbs.) torque. Be sure hose is clear of chassis and suspension components and
use new seal washers to secure hose fitting to caliper. Do not reuse old washers.
(9) Fill master cylinder with Mopar brake fluid or
equivalent meeting SAE and DOT standards J1703 and DOT 3.
(10) Bleed brakes. Refer to procedure in Service
And Adjustments section.
(11) Install wheels and lower vehicle.
(12) Apply brakes several times to seat caliper pis­
tons and brakeshoes. Be sure firm pedal is obtained
before moving vehicle.

ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper assembly. Do not allow brake
hose to support caliper. Support caliper on stool, or suspend caliper with wire attached to nearby body or
suspension component. (4) Remove grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, adjust­
ing nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing. (5) Remove rotor from spindle.
(6) Remove rotor shield and seal if either is to be
serviced.
ROTOR
INSPECTION AND
SERVICE

rotor condition The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless actually necessary. Light surface rust and scale can be removed in a lathe equipped with dual
sanding discs.
Rotor surfaces can be restored by machining in a
disc brake lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
The rotor should be replaced if:
• severely scored
• tapered
• has hard spots
• is cracked
• too thin • machining would cause rotor thickness to fall be­
low minimum thickness requirements Check rotor lateral runout and thickness variation
if pedal pulsation or an occasional low pedal condi­
tion was experienced. Measure runout with a dial in­ dicator. Measure thickness with a micrometer at a
minimum of four points around the braking surfaces.

CHECKING
ROTOR
MINIMUM
THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake-
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is worn
below minimum thickness, or if refinishing would re­ duce thickness below the allowable minimum. Rotor
minimum thickness is usually specified on the rotor
hub (Fig. 20).
Fig.
20 Typical Location Of Rotor
Minimum

Thickness
Limit
ROTOR RUNOUT Check rotor lateral runout with Dial Indicator
C-3339 as shown in the top view (Fig. 21). Excessive

•

BRAKES
5 - 35 lateral runout will cause brake pedal pulsation and
rapid, uneven wear of the brakeshoes. Position the dial indicator plunger approximately
25.4
mm (1 in.)
from the rotor outer edge.
Be sure wheel bearing adjustment is correct
before checking rotor runout. Incorrect adjust­
ment can create a condition similar to excessive
lateral runout- Maximum allowable rotor runout for all models is

0.102
mm
(0.004
in.).
Fig. 21 Checking Rotor Runout And Thickness Variation

ROTOR
THICKNESS VARIATION Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul­
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 21). Position the micrometer ap­
proximately 19,05 to
25.4
mm
(3/4
to 1 in.) from the rotor outer circumference for each measurement as
shown in the bottom view (Fig. 21).
Thickness should not vary by more than
0.013
mm

(0.0005
in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Refinish
or replace the rotor if necessary.

ROTOR
REFINISHING Rotor braking surfaces can be refinished by sand­
ing and/or machining in a disc brake lathe. The lathe
must be capable of machining both rotor surfaces si­
multaneously with dual cutter heads (Fig. 22). A
brake lathe capable of machining only one side at a
time will produce a tapered rotor.
The disc brake lathe should also be equipped with
a grinder attachment, or dual sanding discs for final
cleanup or light refinishing (Fig. 22).
If the rotor surfaces only need minor cleanup of
rust, scale, or scoring, use abrasive discs to clean up
the rotor surfaces. However, when a rotor is scored or
worn, machining with cutting tools will be required.
CAUTION:
Do not
refinish
a
rotor
if
machining

would
cause
rotor
thickness
to
fall
below minimum
allowable.

Fig.
22 Rotor
Refinishing
Equipment

ROTOR
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect and repack wheel bearings if necessary.
Install new grease seal if inner bearing is removed
for repacking.
(2)
Install rotor on spindle.

(3)
Install outer bearing, thrust washer and nut.

(4)
Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to
27-34

Nth
(240-300
in. lbs.) while turning rotor. (5) Recheck rotor runout as described previously.

5
- 36
BRAKES

• (6) Loosen wheel bearing adjusting nut completely.
Then retighten nut finger tight. Wheel bearing end
play should be maximum of 0.002 to 0.076 mm (0.0001 to 0.003 in.).
(7) Install nut lock on bearing adjusting nut. Align
lock slots with cotter pin hole and secure nut and
lock with new cotter pin. (8) Clean grease cap. Then coat interior of cap with wheel bearing grease.
(9) Install caliper, wheel and tire assembly and
lower vehicle.
(10) Check and adjust master cylinder fluid level.
(11) Apply brakes several times to seat brake-

shoes.
Be sure to obtain firm pedal before moving ve­
hicle.

BRAKES
5 - 39
DISC BRAKE LINING WEAR COMPENSATION
Normal lining wear is compensated for by exten­
sion of the caliper piston and by lateral movement of
the caliper in the adapter. Piston position is also de­ termined in part by the square cut piston seal (Fig.
4).

Normal disc brake lining wear will cause the cali­
per piston to extend enough to maintain proper pedal height and brake response. The caliper bore will re­ceive the extra fluid needed to compensate for the ad­
ditional piston extension.
As the piston extends during brake application, the
square-cut seal is deflected outward (Fig. 4). When
brake pressure is released, the seal straightens and returns to a normal relaxed position. Although the amount of seal movement is quite small, it is enough
to retract the piston to the necessary minimum run­ ning clearance. Fluid level in the front brake reservoir will de­
crease as lining wear occurs, the. This is a normal
condition and only requires adding enough fluid to
restore proper level. However, when the brakeshoes are replaced and the caliper pistons bottomed in the

bores,
the added fluid must be compensated for. This is necessary to avoid overfill and overflow. Removing a small amount of fluid from the front brake reser­
voir beforehand will prevent this condition.

Fig.
4 Caliper
Piston
Seal
Operation

DISC
BRAKE INSPECTION
Inspect the disc brake components whenever the
caliper and brakeshoes are removed during service
operations or routine maintenance. Check condition of the rotor, brakeshoe lining, cal­
iper and brake hoses. Front wheel bearing adjust­
ment and condition can also be checked at this time.
The bearings should be repacked and adjusted if nec­ essary.

Brakeshoes
With the caliper and brakeshoes on the vehicle,
check running clearance between the rotor and
brakeshoes. The shoe lining should either be in very light contact with the rotor or a maximum of 0.127
mm (0.005 in.) running clearance. If clearance ex­ceeds the stated amount, apply the brakes several times and recheck clearance. If clearance is still ex­
cessive, either the shoes are severely worn or the cal­
iper piston could be binding in the bore.

Hoses
And Adapter Inspect condition of the brake lines and hoses. Re­
place either front hose if cut, torn, or the reinforcing
fabric is visible. Check condition of the metal brake-
lines.
Replace any line that is badly rusted, leaking
or damaged in any way.
Clean and lubricate the adapter slide surfaces. Use
Mopar multi-mileage or high temperature grease for
this purpose. Also verify that the caliper adapter
bolts are secure and tightened to proper torque.
Fluid Level Check the master cylinder fluid level. Maintain
fluid level to the bottom of the indicator rings on the
reservoir. Note that front brake fluid level can be ex­
pected to drop slightly as normal lining wear occurs.
Use Mopar brake fluid or equivalent meeting SAE and DOT standards J1703 and DOT 3. Use clean
brake fluid from a sealed container only.

Rotors
Check rotor surfaces for excessive wear, discolora­
tion, scoring, rust, scale, or cracks. Also look for damaged or severely rusted ventilating segments. If
pedal pulsation was experienced, check wheel bear­ ing adjustment and condition. If the bearings are OK, also check rotor runout and thickness variation.

DISC
BRAKESHOE REMOVAL
(1) Remove approximately 1/3 of fluid from master
cylinder front brake reservoir with a suction gun. (2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(4) Press caliper pistons to bottom of bore with
large C-clamp (Fig. 5). Position clamp screw on out­
board shoe and clamp frame or rear of caliper hous­ ing. (5) Remove support key retaining screw (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove caliper support key and spring. Use
pin punch or drift to tap key out of caliper (Fig. 7). (7) Lift caliper out of adapter. (8) Remove outboard shoe from caliper (Fig. 8).
(9) Secure caliper to convenient chassis component
with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight. (10) Remove inboard shoe and anti-rattle spring
from caliper adapter (Fig. 9). Note position of spring
for installation reference.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION Inspect the shoe lining for wear. Replace riveted
shoes if the lining is worn to within 1.5 mm (1/16 in.)
of the rivet heads. Replace bonded lining if thickness is 3 mm (3/16 in.) or less.

5
- 44
BRAKES

• Check rotor lateral runout and thickness variation
if pedal pulsation or an occasional low pedal condi­
tion was experienced. Measure runout with a dial in­
dicator. Measure thickness with a micrometer at a
minimum of four points around the braking surfaces.
The rotor measurement points are shown in Figure
17.
Fig. 17 Rotor Measurement
Points
CHECKING ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake-
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if it is worn
below minimum thickness, or if refinishing would re­ duce thickness below the allowable minimum. Rotor
minimum thickness is usually specified on the rotor

hub.

ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul­
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 18). Position the micrometer ap­
proximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) from the rotor outer cir­ cumference for each measurement (Figs. 17 and 19). Thickness should not vary by more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Refinish
or replace the rotor if necessary.
ROTOR RUNOUT Check rotor lateral runout with Dial Indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 18). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brakeshoes.
Position the dial indicator plunger approximately
25.4 mm (1 in.) in from the rotor edge. Be sure
wheel bearing end play is reduced to zero before
checking runout. Maximum allowable runout is 0.127 mm (0.005 in.).
Fig. 18 Checking Rotor Runout And
Thickness
Variation

ROTOR REFINISHING Rotor braking surfaces can be refinished by sand­
ing and/or machining in a disc brake lathe. The lathe
must be capable of machining both rotor surfaces si-

•

BRAKES
5 - 45 multaneously with dual cutter heads. Equipment ca­
pable of machining only one side at a time will
produce a tapered rotor. The lathe should also be equipped with a grinder
attachment or dual sanding discs for final cleanup or
light refinishing.
If the rotor surfaces only need minor cleanup of
rust, scale, or scoring, use abrasive discs to clean up
the rotor surfaces. However, when a rotor is scored or
worn, machining with cutting tools will be required.

CAUTION:
Do not refinish a rotor if
machining

would
cause
the rotor to
fall
below minimum allow­
able
thickness.

ROTOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support front of vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove support key retaining screw (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove caliper support key and spring with
pin punch or drift (Fig. 19).

Fig.
19
Removing
Caliper
Support
Key And
Spring
(5) Remove caliper and brakeshoes from adapter.
Do not allow brake hose to support caliper
weight. Support caliper on stool, or secure cali­
per to nearby frame or chassis component with
wire.
(6) Remove hub cap. (7) Remove drive flange snap ring with Tool
C-4020 (Fig. 20).
(8) Remove flange nuts and lock washers and re­
move drive flange. Discard the flange gasket.
(9) Straighten tang on lock ring. (10) Loosen outer locknut and adjusting nut with
Tool DD-1241-JD (Fig. 19). Then remove outer lock- nut, lock ring, inner adjusting nut and outer bearing. (11) Remove hub and rotor from spindle.
Fig.
20
Removing
Drive Flange
Snap
Ring

(12) Remove seal and inner bearing from hub if
bearing or seal requires service.
(13) If wheel bearing races require service, remove
them with suitable remover tools or with brass drift. (14) Clean rotor and hub and wheel bearings in
solvent.

ROTOR
INSTALLATION
(1) Repack wheel bearings and coat spindle with
Mopar high temperature bearing grease. (2) Install new bearing races, bearings and seals in
hubs if necessary. (3) Install hub on spindle and install outer bearing
and inner adjusting nut. (4) Tighten adjusting nut to 68 Nrni (50 ft. lbs.)
with Special Tools DD-1241-JD and C-3952 to seat
bearings. (5) Adjust wheel bearings as follows: (a) Back off adjusting nut.
(b) Retighten adjusting nut to 54 N*m (40 ft. lbs.)
while rotating hub and rotor. (c) Back off adjusting nut approximately 135 to
150 degrees. (d) Install lock ring and locknut.
(6) Tighten lock nut to a minimum of 88 N»m (65
ft. lbs.). Bearing end play should be 0.025 - 0.25 mm (0.001 - 0.010 in.). (7) Bend one tang of lock ring over adjusting nut
and another tang over locknut to secure them. (8) Install new gasket on hub and install drive
flange, lock washers and nuts. Tighten nuts to 41 - 54 N«m (30 - 40 ft. lbs.). (9) Install flange snap ring with Tool C-4020.
(10) Install hub cap.
(11) Install caliper and brakeshoes. Tighten sup­
port retaining screw to 20 Nnn (15 ft. lbs.) torque. (12) Install wheel and tire assembly and lower ve­
hicle.

5
- 52
BRAKES

•
BRAKE
DRUM
REMOVAL

(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove axle shaft nuts, washers and cones.
Strike axle shaft in center with copper or dead blow
hammer to loosen retaining cones.
(4) Remove axle shaft.
(5) Remove outer hub nut.

(6)
Straighten and remove lock washer.
(7) Remove inner nut and bearing.
(8) Remove drum. If drum is difficult to remove,
retract brakeshoes as follows: (a) Remove rear plug from access hole in support
plate. (b) Insert a thin releasing tool (or screwdriver)
into access hole and push self adjusting lever away
from adjuster screw star wheel (Fig. 2). (c) Insert thin screwdriver, or Tool C-3784 into
access hole and rotate adjuster star wheel to re­
tract brakeshoes (Fig. 2).
Fig.
2 Retracting
Brakeshoes

(9) Remove brake drum.
(10) Inspect brakelining for wear, alignment, or
evidence of leakage from axle or wheel cylinder.

BRAKESHOE
REMOVAL
(1) Unhook adjuster lever return spring from lever
(Fig. 1). (2) Remove lever and return spring from lever
pivot pin (Fig. 1). (3) Unhook adjuster lever from adjuster cable as­
sembly (Fig. 1). (4) Remove shoe-to-shoe upper spring (Fig. 3).

(5)
Remove shoe holddown springs (Fig. 4).

(6)
Disconnect parking brake cable from parking
brake lever. (7) Remove both brakeshoes, shoe-to-shoe lower
spring and adjuster nut as assembly (Fig. 5). (8) If support plate or wheel cylinder are to be ser­
viced, remove anchor bolt and nut that attaches
parking brake lever to support plate. Then remove
RK60A

Fig.
3 Removing/Installing
Shoe-To-Shoe
Upper
Spring

Fig.
4 Removing/Installing
Shoe
Holddown
Springs

lever, washer, spring, cam plate, anchor bolt bushing and adjuster cable (Fig. 1).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Clean the brake components, including the support
plate and wheel cylinder exterior, with a water dampened cloth or with Mopar brake cleaner. Do not
use compressed air. Replace the brakeshoes if the lining is worn to
within 1.5 mm (1/16 in.) of the rivet heads or if
bonded lining is less than 4 mm (3/16 in.) thick. Ex­ amine the lining contact pattern to determine if the
shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across the entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be re­
placed and the drum checked for runout or taper.