belt FIAT 500 1961 1.G User Guide

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading

indicates a break in the cable from the generator to
regulator. Repeat the test on terminal 67. Finally,
remove the temporary link from the generator. If the
readings are correct, test the regulator as described in
Section 11:5.
Removing generator:
1 Disconnect the leads from the generator.
2 Remove the drive belt as previously described.
3 Release t h e rear mounting bracket at the side of the
power unit.
4 Remove the air cooling ducting from around the fan
and generator area and lift away the unit.
5 Release the blower from the end of the armature shaft
and finally, the mounting bolts from the air ducting.
Dismantling generator:
1 Release the pulley self-locking nut and slide the pulley
off the armature shaft.
2 Remove the t w o Woodruff keys on armature shaft.
3 Unscrew the t w o through bolt nuts and pull out the
bolts.
4 Partially remove the commutator end head to the point
where the brushes are. s t i l l seating on the commutator.
Using a piece of hooked wire relieve the load of the
springs on the brushes by arranging the spring ends
on the brush sides. The brushes will be locked in their
holders and cannot be chipped by striking against the
armature shaft during the commutator end head
removal.
5 Gently ease the commutator and fan end heads apart
and, slide out the armature.
Servicing brushes:
Lift the brushes up in the boxes and hold them in that
position by letting each brush spring bear on the side of
its brush. Fit the commutator end bracket over the
commutator end of the armature shaft and release the
brushes by hooking up the springs using a thin screw
driver. Hold back each spring in turn and move the brush
by pulling gently on the flexible connector. If the brush
moves sluggishly remove it and polish the sides using a
smooth file. Before this operation is actually carried out it
is suggested that the brush is marked before removal so
that it is replaced in its original working position.
inch,The minimum permissible length of a brush is
so renew any t h a t are less than this figure. Test the brush
springs using a spring tension scale. New springs should
have a tension of 1.3 to 1.6 Ib. In service this value could
fall slightly before performance is affected. Always bed in
new brushes by wrapping fine sandpaper round the
commutator, pressing down on the brush and rotating
the commutator under it, or draw the paper t o o and f r o .
If new brushes are fitted always fit genuine Fiat replace-
ments.
Servicing the commutator:
A commutator in good condition should be smooth and
free from pitting or signs of the segments burning. Clean
with a rag moistened in petrol. If necessary, polish using
a fine glasspaper whilst rotating the armature. Never use
emerycloth.
If the commutator is badly worn it may be skimmed
using a centre lathe. Use a high rotational speed and take
F500113
FIG 11 :3 Components of generator
Key to Fig 11 : 3 1 Terminal 51 2 Bearing outer ring
retainment terminal nut 3 Commutator end head 4 Brushes
5 Terminal 67 6 Frame 7 Blower end head
8 Bearing retainer nuts and screws 9 Pulley retainment nut
10 Pulley 11 Head mounting tie rods and nuts
12 Armature 13 Blower retainment nut
FIG 11 :4 Commutator end head of generator DSV
90.12.16.3 S
a light cut using a sharp tool. Remove only enough metal
to clean up the commutator face and then polish with
fine glasspaper. To undercut the insulation between the
segments, it is suggested that a hacksaw blade is ground
on its sides until it is the thickness of the insulation and
carefully work between each pair of segments until the
insulation has been cut to a depth of .0394 inch below the
surface.
A thorough visual inspection may determine the cause
of armature failure. Breaks in armature windings cause
burnt commutator segments. Short-circuited windings
are discoloured by overheating, with badly burnt
commutator segments.

Before removing an apparently faulty horn check the
wiring and connections. Check that the mounting bolts
are tight and that the horn does not foul any adjacent part.
Removal and installation:
This is a straightforward operation and the only
precaution to be taken is to ensure that the rubber gasket
bonded to the horn body does not become detached. If
the horn is renewed, before installing the new horn bond
the rubber gasket to the new unit with adhesive in
the same position as was on the original horn unit fitted.
Should the horn fail to operate the following points
should be noted.
1 Damaged horn.
2 Broken connection between battery and horn.
3 Broken connection between horn and push button on
steering wheel
4 Damaged push button mechanism.
5 Directional signal and outer lighting changeover
switch blade contact failing to make contact with the
steering wheel hub ring contact.
6 Current lead displaced from the horn blade contact on
the directional signal and outer lighting switch.
7 Distorted or broken diaphragm in horn.
8 Connections or inner windings
broken or burnt.
9 Electro-magnet contact points dirty or excessively
worn.The contacts may be adjusted by the adjusting screw
after the points have been cleaned and refaced.
To adjust the tone of the horn use a ring spanner and
screwdriver as shown in FIG 11 :23.
It is recommended that if the horn unit operation is
unreliable a new unit should be fitted rather than the
original one repaired.
11:12 Lighting and flasher switch
Description:
The two switches provide a directional signal switch
which automatically returns to the rest position once a
turn has been negotiated and the steering wheel is
brought back to the straight-ahead position. The change
over switch controls the outer lights and the headlights
flasher. The complete unit is located under the steering
wheel on the steering column.
Switch unit removal:
1 Carefully pry off the horn push button at the steering
wheel centre using a fine blade screwdriver.
2 Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
3 Disconnect the plug in contact in the steering wheel
hub.
4 Unscrew the steering wheel retaining nut from the
inner column and remove the steering wheel from the
shaft.
5 Slacken the bolts securing the steering column support
to the body
6 Remove the plug in contacts from the switch unit
ensuring that their correct location is noted for re-
assembly.7 Remove the switch unit from the steering column.
124
Switch unit installation:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. It is
advisable after installation to check that the steering
wheel when in the straight-ahead position and the
directional signal switch lever in neutral, the reference
index on the outer face of the directional signal switch
drum is in line with the index on the steering wheel hub.
This will ensure correct sequence of operation.
11:13 Fault diagnosis
(a) Battery discharged
1 Lighting circuit shorted
2 Terminals loose or dirty
3 Generator not charging
4 Regulator or cut-out units not working properly
5 Battery internally defective
(b) Insufficient charging current
1 Loose or corroded battery terminals
2 Generator driving belt slipping
(c) Battery will not hold a charge
1 Low electrolyte level
2 Battery plates sulphated
3 Electrolyte leakage from cracked casing or top sealing
compound
4 Plate separators ineffective
(d) Battery overcharged
1 Voltage regulator needs adjusting
(e) Generator output low or nil
1 Belt broken or slipping
2 Regulator unit out of adjustment
3 Worn bearings, loose pole pieces
4 Commutator worn, burned or shorted
5 Armature shaft bent or worn
6 Insulation proud between commutator segments
7 Brushes sticking, springs weak or broken
8 Field coil wires shorted, broken or burned
( f ) Starter motor lacks power or will not operate
1 Battery discharged, loose cable connections
2 Starter pinion jammed in mesh with flywheel gear
3 Starter switch faulty
4 Brushes worn or sticking, heads detached or shorting
5 Commutator dirty or worn
6 Starter shaft bent
7 Engine abnormally stiff
(g) Starter motor inoperative
1 Check 1 in (f)
2 Armature or field coils faulty