Transmission oil FIAT 500 1969 1.G Workshop Manual

CHAPTER 1
THE ENGINE
1 :1
1 :2
1 :3
1 :4
1 :5
1 :6
1 :7
1 :8
1:9
1 :10
1 :11Description
Engine removal (sedan—all versions)
Engine removal (station wagon)
Engine disassembly (sedan—all versions)
Engine disassembly (station wagon)
Cylinder head removal, servicing and
replacement
Timing gear overhaul
Crankcase and cylinders
Piston assembly
Connecting rods
Crankshaft and main bearings
1 :1 Description
The 'New 500' two-cylinder aircooled engine operates
on the four-stroke 'Otto Cycle' and is fitted directly to
the transmission unit which incorporates the rear drive
assembly as shown in FIG 1 :1 and FIG 1 :2.
With the power unit fitted at the rear several advantages
are obtained including better load distribution to the
wheels when the vehicle is loaded, elimination of propeller
shaft reducing the size of centre tunnel and better use of
available space.
The cylinder block comprises t w o cast iron cylinder
barrels w i t h cooling fins. The bottom of the cylinders fit
into machined seats in the aluminium crankcase.
The aluminium crankcase carries eight studs on which
are located the t w o cylinder barrels w i t h the aluminium
cylinder head on the top.
A two bush crankshaft of special cast iron is fitted into
the lower half of the crankcase. The crankshaft is
F5009 provided with a counterweight and is hollow to allow for
lubrication.
The steel connecting rods have thin wall bearing halves
on the big-end, and bronze bushes in the small-end. The
offset piston pin is of steel and retained in the piston by
two circlips.
Light alloy pistons are used and are of the taper-oval-
shaped type with a maximum diameter at the base of the
skirt, along an axis perpendicular to the piston pin. Pistons
are fitted with four rings as follows, one compression at
the top, two standard oil scraper rings and one side slotted
oil scraper ring.
The one-piece aluminium cylinder head is finned to
provide a larger cooling surface and carries the inlet and
exhaust manifolds.
The inlet passages merge into a single centralized
flange onto which is mounted the carburetter. The exhaust
passages run almost parallel to the axis of the engine. 1 :12
1 :13
1 :14
1 :15
1 :16
1 :17
1 :18
1 :19
1 :20
1 :21
1 :22Flywheel and starter ring gear
The oil pump
Lubrication, oil filter, relief valve
Valve timing
Valve stem to rocker clearance
Engine assembly (sedan—all versions)
Engine assembly (station wagon)
Power plant mounting
Adjustment of generator and fan belt drive
Modifications
Fault diagnosis

FIG 1 :48 Power plant front support cross-section
FIG 1 :49 Checking the generator and blower drive
belt tension
1 :19 Power plant mountings
The combined power and transmission unit is elastic-
ally mounted on two supports.
The front of the unit rests on a crossmember which is
secured under the car floor through two rubber block
mountings that are bolted to the gearbox casing as
shown in FIG 1 :48. The position of the rubber blocks
on the crossmember is adjustable so that the assembly
can be correctly aligned.
W i t h t h e rear of the unit the engine crankcase is sprung
to the b o d y rear crossmember through an articulated
swinging arm that compresses a coil spring as shown in
FIGS 1 :47 and 1 :49. A rubber bump pad is mounted
inside the spring to give a progressive action.
Whenever the power and transmission unit is being
serviced the condition of the mountings should be
checked and any worn or damaged parts renewed.
1 :20 Adjustment of generator and fan drive belt
The centrifugal oil filter cover/pulley on the crankshaft
transmits the drive through a V-belt to the generator and
centrifugal fan pulley.
32
(b) Engine stalls
1 Check 1, 2, 3, 4, 10, 1 1 , 12, 13, 14 and 15 in (a)
2 Sparking plugs defective or gaps incorrect
3 Retarded ignition 1 Defective coil
2 Faulty distributor capacitor (condenser)
3 Dirty, pitted or incorrectly set contact breaker points
4 Ignition wires loose or insulation faulty
5 Water on sparking plug leads
6 Corrosion of battery terminals or battery discharged
7 Faulty or jammed starter
8 Sparking plug leads wrongly connected
9 Vapour lock in fuel pipes
10 Defective fuel pump
11 Overchoking
12 Underchoking
13 Blocked petrol filter or carburetter jets
14 Leaking valves
15 Sticking valves
16 Valve timing incorrect
17 Ignition timing incorrect
(a) Engine will not start 1 :22 Fault diagnosis
Since its introduction the Fiat new 5 0 0 model has
been continually developed. The main modifications that
have been made are as follows:
1 Heating system safety device
2 Recirculation device for the blow-by gases
3 Cylinder head modified to incorporate item 1
4 Double valve springs fitted
5 Cylinder barrels modified to incorporate item 1
6 Flywheel modified to incorporate new type diaphragm
spring clutch mounting
7 Larger air cleaner container.
Details of these modifications are to be found in the
relevant sections if they necessitate a change in service
overhaul procedure. Other information is to be found in
Technical Data.
1 :21 Modifications
When the V-belt has been correctly adjusted the belt
should sag 13/32 inch under a hand pressure of about 22 lb
as shown in FIG 1 : 4 9.
Should the belt be too slack the generator and
centrifugal fan will not operate at the correct speed
causing overheating and a discharged battery. Also the
belt will slip causing rapid wear of the belt. Conversely
if the belt is too tight excessive loading will be placed
on the generator bearings causing excessive bearing
wear and noisy operation.
To adjust the belt tension proceed as follows:
1 Remove the three nuts ' B ' (see FIG 1 :49) on the
generator pulley and this will split the pulley into two
parts between which are spacer rings.
2 The tension of the belt is increased or decreased by
either reducing or increasing the number of spacers.
3 Place the spacer rings removed from between the
pulley halves on the pulley outer face so that the rings
may be re-inserted when fitting a new belt.
4 Tighten the three nuts to a torque wrench setting of
14.5
lb ft.
Key to Fig 1 :49 A Normal give-in: about 13/32 inch under
a 22 Ib pressure B Nuts securing the pulley halves with
spacer rings

lubricated using Fiat Jota 3 grease.
1 Pressure plate—boss outer faces.
2 Clutch cover—withdrawal lever fulcrum.
3 Withdrawal lever stopnuts—contact face.
4 Withdrawal lever carrier ring — lever contact face.
5 Crankcase end pilot bushing lubricated with Fiat KG.15
grease.
6 Lubricate contact faces of driven plate and clutch shaft.
To install the clutch assembly proceed as follows:
1 Ensure t h a t there is no grease or oil on the faces of the
driven plate or flywheel face and position with the
raised part of the hub towards the transmission unit.
2 Locate Fiat tool A.70085 (diaphragm clutch) or
A . 6 2 0 2 3 (coil spring clutch) or a suitably sized drift,
through the driven plate hub and position in crankshaft
pilot bushing. Gradually tighten the clutch unit
mounting screws working diagonally and finally tighten
to a torque wrench setting of 5.8 to 7.2 Ib ft.
5 : 6 Pilot bushing
Whenever the clutch unit is being renewed or over-
hauled it is essential that the crankshaft pilot bush is
checked for excessive wear or damage. Also check that
FIG 5 : 7 Side sectional view of clutch and throw-out
mechanism - 5 0 0 Sedan (11OF), late Station Wagon. Value
1.5 mm (.059 inch) refers to the clearance to be obtained
through the adjustment of clutch throw-out yoke rod
F50063
The withdrawal mechanism comprises a forked lever
(see FIG 5 : 8), which is located in the clutch housing and 5:7 Withdrawal mechanism
New 500 and 500D models:
the spigot on the bush end is in a good serviceable con-
dition. The maximum clearance between the clutch shaft
spigot and the bush should not be greater than .0059 inch
otherwise the pilot bush must be renewed. To remove the
pilot bush use Fiat puller A.40006/1 /2 or a small universal
internal bush and bearing removal tool.
To fit a new bush use a suitably sized drift and drive the
bush fully home and lubricate well with Fiat KG.15 grease. FIG 5 : 9 Clutch controls and adjusting mechanism LEVER RETURN SPRING
ADJUSTABLETIE R O DCLUTCH RELEASE LEVER NUT A N D JAM NUT
FOR TIE R O D CLUTCH RELEASE BOWDEN FIG 5:8 Clutch throw-out mechanism
CLUTCHSHAFT
LEVER-AND-SHAFT
RELEASE
RELEASETHRUST RING
FORK-TO-THRUSTFASTENERS RING
CARBON
RING
WITHDRAWAL FORKCLUTCH

FIG 5:10 Clutch throw-out mechanism
Key to Fig 5:10 1 Clutch throw-out yoke
2 Yoke return spring 3 Rod nut and counternut
4 Adjustable rod 5 Clutch throw-out
onto this shaft the outer operating lever is attached by
means of a key.
A return spring connected to the outer operating lever
is anchored onto the gearbox casing. When the clutch is in
its normal position the spring keeps the central thrust
carbon ring away from the withdrawal levers carrier ring.
The carbon ring is pressed against the carrier ring by the
throw-out ring which is connected to the forked lever as
shown in FIG 5 : 8 .
The clutch pedal must have free travel of 1"3/8 to 1"9/16 inch.
Should any adjustment be necessary release the locknut
from the adjustable tie rod and adjust the position of the
tie rod until the correct adjustment is obtained. Tighten the
locknut.
500F. L and later station wagon:
The free travel of the clutch pedal should be 19/32 to
1"3/16 inch which corresponds to a clearance of .059 inch
between the throw-out sleeve and the ring (see FIG 5 : 7).
Should any correction be necessary release the adjust-
able rod locknut (see FIG 5:10), and reposition the
adjustable rod using the rod nut until the recommended
clutch pedal travel is obtained. Retighten the locknut.
5 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Drag or spin
1 Oil or grease on driven plate lining
64
(g) Driven plate fracture
1 Check 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Drag and distortion due to hanging gearbox in plate hub (f) Tick or knock
1 Worn first motion shaft spigot or bearings
2 Badly worn splines in driven plate hub
3 Release plate out of line
4 Faulty Bendix drive on starter motor
5 Loose flywheel
(e) Rattle
1 Check 3 in (c)
2 Worn release mechanism
3 Excessive backlash in transmission
4 Wear in transmission bearings
5 Release bearing loose on fork (d) Judder
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Pressure plate not parallel with flywheel face
3 Contact area of driven plate linings not evenly distribu-
ted
4 Bent first-motion shaft
5 Buckled driven plate
6 Faulty power unit mountings
7 Worn suspension mountings
8 Weak rear springs
9 Loose drive shafts (c) Slip
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Check 2 in (b)
3 Weak pressure springs or diaphragm spring (b) Fierceness or snatch
1 Check 1, 2 and 3 in (a)
2 Worn clutch linings 2 Misalignment between engine and gearbox first motion
shaft
3 Driven plate hub binding on first motion shaft splines
4 Binding of first motion shaft spigot bearing
5 Distorted clutch plate
6 Warped or damaged pressure plate or clutch cover
7 Broken driven plate linings
8 Dirt or foreign matter in clutch

PRIMARY SHAFT-TO-CLUTCH
SHAFT MOUNTING PINCLUTCH SHAFT SEAL PRIMARY SHAFT WITH
1st, 3 r d A N D 4 t h SPEED
GEAR CLUSTER
2 n d SPEED
DRIVE GEARPRIMARY SHAFT
FRONT BALL BEARINGPRIMARY SHAFT
REAR BALL BEARING
PRIMARY
SHAFT-TO-CLUTCH
i SHAFT JOINING SLEEVEJOINING SLEEVELOCKRING
SPEED SELECTOR LEVER
CLUTCH SHAFT
LAYSHAFT WITH BEVEL PINION
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR
2 n d SPEED ENGAGEMENT
SLIDING SLEEVE
2 N D SPEED DRIVEN GEAR
LAYSHAFT FRONT BALL
BEARING
3 r d SPEED DRIVEN GEARHUB FOR
SLEEVE
3rd AND 4th/
SPEED ENGAGEMENT
SLIDING SLEEVE4 t h SPEED
DRIVEN GEARLAYSHAFT REAR ROLLER BEARING
LAYSHAFT-TO-PINION
ADJUSTMENT WASHER 1st SPEED AND)
REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
FIG 6:1Gearbox-differential unit longitudinal section
On the primary shaft extension outside the main central
body is mounted the second-speed driving gear. The
primary shaft is supported at both ends by ballbearings
whilst the clutch shaft rotates in a bronze spigot bush which
is press fitted into the end of the crankshaft. An oil seal is
fitted in the clutch shaft passage seat in the c o n n e c t i o n
support. The layshaft, together with the drive pinion of the
differential unit is supported at the front by a ballbearing
race. The layshaft carries the pinion adjustment shim, the
fourth-speed driven gear and its bushing, the hub and
relevant engagement sleeve for the t h i r d - and fourth-
speed w i t h first-speed and reverse-speed, the third-speed
gear and bushing and, outside the casing the second gear
and bushing, the hub with relevant second-speed engage-
ment sleeve and the speedometer drive gear.
The gears are operated by a gear selection lever mounted
on the tunnel situated between the two front seats. This
operates through a rod actuating the selector and shifting
mechanism which is housed in the gearbox casing cover.
Refer to FIG 6 :3 where it will be seen th a t the positioning
of the striker rods is ensured by a spring-loaded ball-
bearing. The risk of engaging two gears at the same time is
eliminated by three rollers which slide in suitable slots
machined in the rod (see FIG 6 : 4).
The differential unit and the final drive gear train are
housed in the t w o semi-covers which
have previously
been described, the final drive pinion being integral with
the layshaft. The differential casing may be split into t w o
halves. The bevel gear is fitted on one of the halves and is
66
secured by the same screws joining the two halves
together. The differential side gears are internally splined
into which are located the splined axle shaft ends which
are able to slide by means of a specially designed slip joint.
Two specially shaped rubber oil boots are inserted on the
swing axle shafts and fit over the side gear extensions to
ensure that there is no loss of lubricant or the ingress
of dirt.
The transmission and differential unit to suit the station
wagon differs from the sedan in that the transmission to
engine mounting plate and the bellhousing are modified to
suit the engine repositioned on its side.
6 : 2 Removal of gearbox/differential unit:
The complete unit may be removed whilst the engine
remains in situ and to remove this unit proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the battery positive cable and jack up the
rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly based stands.
2 Disconnect all control cables and wiring from the
starter motor and the clutch lever. Remove the starter
motor, the clutch lever reaction spring and the clutch
cable support on the gearbox.
3 Remove the three bolts securing each of the driving
shaft flanges to the flexible coupling at the wheel ends
and carefully take out the inner spring.
4 Disconnect the shifter rod from the gearshift lever at the
gearbox extension and also the
speedometer drive
cable. Remove also the flywheel undercover. Place a
suitable support under the engine.

FIG 6 :2 Gearbox gears, forks and striker rods
KeytoFig6:2 1 Rear roller bearing 2 Layshaft with bevel pinion 3 Front ballbearing 4 Front bearing plate
5 Bushing 6 Fourth-speed driven gear 7 Third- and fourth-speed sliding sleeve 8 First and reverse sliding gear
9 Sliding sleeve hub 10 Third-speed driven gear 11 Bushing 12 Bushing 13 Second-speed driven gear
14 Second-speed sliding sleeve 15 Second-speed sliding sleeve hub 16 Speedo drive gear 17 Reverse sliding gear
18 Reverse sliding gear shaft 19 Clutch shaft 20 Clutch shaft-to-primary shaft sleeve 21 Primary shaft rear ballbearing
22 Primary shaft with first and reverse, third and fourth gear train 23 Primary shaft front ballbearing 24 Second-speed drive gear
25 First gear fork 26 First and second gear striker rod with second gear fork 27 Reverse gear fork 28 Reverse gear striker rod
29 Third and fourth gear fork 30 Third and fourth striker rod 31 Gear selector and engagement lever
SPRING
GUIDE BUSHES
REVERSESTRIKER R O D
BALL SPRINGS
POSITIONING BALLS STRIKER R O D
BALL SPRING
COVER PLATE
1st A N D 2 n d SPEED
STRIKER R O D3 r d A N D 4 t h SPEED
STRIKER R O D
FIG 6 : 3 Detail of gearbox section through striker rod
positioning ball springs
F50067 5 Using a garage type hydraulic jack fitted with Fiat
support Arr.2076 carefully placed under the gearbox-
differential unit take the weight of the unit from the
front mounting. Carefully remove the nuts securing the
transmission unit to the engine and also the nuts that
secure the transmission front support to the body
brackets.
6 Carefully draw the transmission forwards away from
the engine taking very great care that no weight is
allowed to act on the clutch shaft until the end of the
clutch shaft is clear of the flywheel and clutch cover
assembly. Carefully lower the transmission to the floor.
7 Remove the front support together with its rubbers,
drain the oil from the transmission unit and thoroughly
wash the outside to remove all traces of dirt and grease
and dry using a compressed air jet. The transmission is
now ready for dismantling.
6:3 Dismantling— gearbox
Before dismantling the gearbox ensure that the exterior
is thoroughly clean and then proceed as follows:

1st A N D 2 n d SPEED
STRIKER R O D LOCK
ROLLER1st A N D 2 n d SPEED
STRIKER R O D 3 r d A N D 4 t h SPEED
STRIKER R O D 3 r d A N D 4 t h SPEED
STRIKER R O D LOCK -
ROLLER REVERSE STRIKER
ROD LOCK ROLLER
REVERSESTRIKER R O D
FIG 6 : 4 Detail of gearbox section through striker rod
lock rollers
2 n d SPEED DRIVENGEAR2 n d SPEED ENGAGEMENT SLIDING SLEEVE 2 n d SPEED FORK 1st A N D 2 n d
SPEED STRIKER R O D REVERSE GEAR3rd AND 4th
SPEED STRIKER R O DREVERSE STRIKER R O D2 n d SPEED DRIVE GEAR SPEED SELECTOR LEVER
FIG 6 : 5 Cross section of gearbox through striker rods
with the indication of the gear selector lever angular
displacement
68
AXLE SHAFT-TO-JOINT SLEEVE
OIL BOOT
RING GEAR
FIG 6:6 Differential unit complete with axle shafts
BEARING CONEADJUSTER LOCK RING BEARING HOUSING DIFFERENTIAL CASE
OIL BOOT RETAINER
AXLE SHAFT
1 Remove the speedometer drive support together with
its gears. Remove the front cover together with its
gasket and the gear selection rod (see FIG 6:2).
2 Remove the lock ring and carefully slide the splined
sleeve from the axle shafts. Remove the t w o roller
bearing housings together with the relevent rubber
boot fastening cover, the rubber boots and the adjuster
ring lock rings.
3 Detach the transmission mounting on engine support
and carefully remove the differential case assembly
complete w i t h the ring gear and axle shafts.
4 Open the fasteners and loosen all the shifter fork lock
bolts.
5 Engage t w o gears at the same time so locking the
input shaft and the mainshaft together. Remove the
cotter pins and the nuts on the front end of the input
shaft and the mainshaft.
6 Remove the retaining cover located on the lefthand
side of the gearbox and carefully take out the shifter
rod positioning balls and springs from their bores.
Remove the upper shifter fork shaft and shifter fork,
the middle shifter fork shaft together with its interlock
pin and also the third and fourth gear shifter fork.
Remove the plain washer and speedometer drive
driving gear from the layshaft.
7 Remove the second gear engagement sliding sleeve
together with the shifter fork, shifter fork shaft, sliding
sleeve hub, second-speed driven gear with relevent
bush and the first gear engagement
fork. Take very
great care not to drop the safety rollers whilst extract-
ing the striker rods.
8 Remove the second-speed driving gear from the input
shaft. Release the reverse shaft retaining screw and
remove the shaft together with the reverse gear cluster.
Remove the layshaft front bearing retaining plate.
9 Push the input shaft forwards until both ballbearing
races are pressed from their seating and the coupling
sleeve located between the input shaft and the clutch
shaft can be reached from above. Carefully remove the
retaining ring and a connection pin at the input shaft
side of the coupling sleeve and carefully withdraw the
clutch shaft and coupling sleeve.
10 Remove the input shaft front bearing race. Tilt the
primary shaft in the casing and remove it from the
gearbox housing. Remove the rear bearing. Carefully

FIG 6:19 Modified items in transmission-differential assembly
Key to Fig 6:19 1 Reverse shifter shaft 2 Third and fourth shifter shaft 3 First and second shifter shaft
4 Countershaft pinion (and ring gear) 5 - 7 Transmission-differential case 6 Housing 8 Clutch shaft
FIG 6:20 End sectional view of transmission — differential assembly
The items having undergone design modifications, besides and final drive gears 2 Seal 3 Bushing 4 Oil
those shown in Fig 6 :19 are the following: 1 Differential case boot 5 Axle shaft 6 Joint casing
77F500

although these do not affect the service procedures that
have been previously described.
6:12 Fault diagnosis
(a) Noisy transmission
1 Excessive backlash of gears in mesh due to gear wear
2 Gears, bearings or gear bushings damaged
3 Shafts misaligned or out of centre due to loose mount-
ing nuts
4 Dirt or metal chips in the lubricant
5 Insufficient oil level in transmission case
(b) Transmission jumps out of gear or gear
shifting is irregular
1 Improper shifting
2 Gear shift lever mounting bracket out of adjustment
3 Incorrect assembly or damage of striker rod positioning
balls and springs
4 Striker rod rollers worn or assembled incorrectly
(c) Oil leakage
1 Overfilled transmission case2 Front extension, upper cover and clutch housing nutsloose
3 Speed selector and engagement lever seal at front
extension damaged
4 Faulty bellhousing gasket
5 Gaskets, upper cover-to-case, front extension-to-case,
damaged
6 Damaged axle shaft boot or seal
(d) Transmission shifts hard
1 Defective link of gear shift lever to internal front lever
2 Internal front lever rubber bushing and plates damaged
3 Speed selector and engagement lever control rod
twisted
4 Control rod-to-speed selector and engagement lever
joint damaged
5 Speed selector and engagement lever worn
6 Striker rods binding in casing
7 Sliding sleeves and gears bound in their seats due to
the presence of dirt in splines
8 Improper quality of transmission lubricant
9 Misadjusted clutch linkage and clutch make de-
clutching impossible
78

switch contacts. The starter motor rotates driving the
engine through the pinion and ring gear. As soon as the
engine fires the starter hand lever must be released which
will open the starter switch contacts so stopping the
starter motor and the pinion will return under the action
of a spring to a neutral position.
Tests for a starter which does not operate:
Check the condition of the battery and particularly
the connections to the terminals and to earth. If the
battery is charged, switch on the lights and operate the
starter hand lever control. If the lights go dim but the
starter does not operate it shows that current is reaching
the starter motor. The probability is that the pinion of the
starter shaft is jammed in mesh due to dirty pinion splines
or a broken spring. To release the pinion engage a low
gear with the ignition switched off and rock the vehicle
backwards and forwards which should allow the pinion
to be disengaged from the flywheel ring gear. If it proves
impossible to free a jammed pinion the starter motor must
be removed for examination and repair.
If the lamps do not go dim, check the starter switch and
also check the connection between the battery and the
starter switch to ensure that they are tight and making
good electrical connection. If the starter motor still does
not work it should be removed from the power unit for
inspection.
Removing the starter:
To remove the starter motor from the power unit
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the positive terminal from the
battery post.
2 Release the hand lever control cable from the starter
motor engagement lever.
3 Disconnect the battery cable terminal from the starter
motor switch.
4 Remove the retaining nuts and washers holding the
starter motor to body to the transmission bellhousing
and gently ease backwards and lift away the starter
motor.
Examining the commutator and brush gear :
Refer to FIG 11:5 and remove the coverband 5. Hold
back each spring in turn and pull gently on the flexible
connection to the brush. If the brush does not move
freely remove it from its holder and polish the sides using
a fine file. Mark the brushes so that they will be replaced
in their original positions. If the brushes are so worn that
they no longer bear onto the commutator, or the brush
connector has become exposed on the running face, the
brushes must be renewed.
If the commutator is blackened it should be cleaned by
turning it against a petrol-moistened cloth. With the
brushes and commutator overhauled hold the body of the
starter motor in a vice and connect it with thick cables to a
12 volt battery. One cable should go to the starter
switch terminal and the other to the body of the starter.
The starter should run at high speed. If it does not, it
must be dismantled for further examination and testing.
F500115 Dismantling the starter:
To dismantle the starter proceed as follows:
1 Remove the coverband 5 (see FIG 11:5) and hold
back the brush springs and take out the brushes.
2 Remove the starter switch by releasing the t w o
mounting screws and lift away the switch.
3 Remove the commutator end head 16, slide off the
armature assembly from the drive unit and from the
pole shoes.
4 Release the engagement lever pin 6 and spring 7 from
the lever operating bracket on the drive end head. Lift
away the lever and withdraw the pinion assembly
complete which is shown in FIG 11:5.
Servicing the brushes
Test the brush springs with a balance, the correct
tension is 2.5 to 2.9 Ib. according to the wear of the
brushes. Fit a new spring if the tension is low.
The life of the brushes depends on the type of service
in which the vehicle is being used. In normal circum-
stances even when the starter is being used frequently,
the brushes should last more than 18,000 miles. If the
wear is found to be abnormal it will probably be found
that the commutator is either damaged or excessively
w o r n . Only Fiat replacement brushes must be used.
Testing the field coils:
Use a 12 volt bulb in one lead of a 12 volt battery.
Connect one lead to the brush connection joint to the coil
field and the other to the field coil current supply lead.
If the bulb does not light there is a break in the f i e l d coil
windings. This is not a complete test as it is still possible
for a coil to be earthed. Check this by moving the lead
from the brush connection and holding it on a clean
metal
surface on the yoke or body. If the bulb lights it shows
that the field coils are earthed.
The only sure way of curing faulty field coils is to take
the starter motor to a service station.
Examining the armature:
The armature shaft may be bent due to the starter
being operated whilst the engine is operating. Do not try
to straighten a bent shaft or machine the armature core to
obtain the correct clearance.
If the commutator is damaged or any wires or segments
have lifted from it, the assembly will have to be renewed.
Starter bearings:
Bearing bushes are of the porous bronzed type and
must not be reamed after fitting. Worn bearings should
be withdrawn by screwing a tap into them and pulling
on the tap. New bushes must be immersed in engine oil
for approximately twenty four hours before fitting. Press
them into place using a suitably sized drift which has a
spigot the length of the bearing and the diameter of the
starter shaft. When this is withdrawn after fitting, the
bore of the bush should be correct to size.
The pinion drive:
This unit is shown in FIG 11:5. The chief sources of
trouble are a dirty unit or a broken starting engagement