Lubrication FIAT 500 1970 1.G User Guide

5 Using the graduated sector check that all the valve
timing angles are as detailed in Technical Data.
Readjust the valve stem to rocker arm clearance to the
correct setting.
1:16 Valve stem-to-rocker clearance adjustment
It is important that the clearance between the valve
stem and rocker is kept to the recommended figure
of .0059 inch, measured when the engine is cold.
If the clearance is excessive operating noise will occur
and if less than recommended the valves will stay open
too long which will result in damage to the valve face
and its seating.
Inspect the contacting surfaces for scoring or pitting:
if it is excessive, new parts must be fitted. Also check
the condition of the rocker-to-valve and rocker ball
head-to-pushrod contact surfaces are free from wear or
pitting. The faces must have a mirror finish.
The oilway in the rockers and shaft must be thoroughly
inspected and free from sludge, otherwise lubrication
failure will occur.
The assembly clearance between the rocker arm and
shaft should be .00063 to .00217 inch and the clearance
between the rocker shaft and the shaft support should
be .00020 to .00138 inch with a maximum wear limit of
0039 inch.
Turn the engine until the valves of one cylinder are in
balance, that is, the inlet valve opening and the exhaust
valve closing. The other cylinder will now have both valves
fully closed. Adjust the valves on this second cylinder by
loosening the locknut, and turning the
adjuster as shown in
FIG 1 : 43 to obtain the desired clearance measured with
a feeler gauge. Adjust the clearances on the other cylinder
in the same manner.
1 :17 Engine assembly (sedan — all versions)
To reassemble the engine proceed as follows:
1 Thoroughly clean and dry all the parts, ensure that all
drillings are free from dirt or sludge and place on a
clean dry surface.
2 Carefully install the cylinder-piston-connecting rod
assemblies w i t h new paper gaskets between the
cylinders and crankcase seats.
3 Refit the big-end bearing shells to the connecting
rods, ensuring that they are free from any dirt or
metallic particles. Carefully ease t h e crankshaft into
the crankcase, lubricate the main journals with clean
engine oil, place a new paper gasket between the
supporting member and the flywheel end of the
crankcase. Install the supporting member and bearing
assemblies. Secure the supporting members with the
screws and special toothed washers.
4 Locate the connecting rod big-end half onto the
crankpin journals, liberally lubricate the journals with
fresh engine oil, fit the remaining shell half, matching
bearing end cap and tighten the bearing cap nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 23.9 Ib ft.
5 Inspect the camshaft bearing bores and remove any
burrs w i t h a hand scraper wetted with oil. Carefully
slide in the camshaft ensuring the cam lobes or gear
teeth do not score the front bearing bore.
6 Fit a new timing gear cover paper gasket held in
place w i t h a little grease. Install the outer thrust ring,
F50029 inner thrust ring, shoulder washer and slide on the
camshaft drive sprocket, locking it with the Woodruff
key. Assemble the timing chain and driven sprocket,
ensuring that the timing marks on the sprocket are
indexing as shown in FIG 1 :41. Secure the driven
sprocket with six screws and lockplates and care-
fully bend down the lockplates.
7 Install the timing gear cover, the oil pump, oil pressure
relief valve and seal assembly. Secure w i t h nuts,
special toothed washers and plain washers located
in the same manner as was noted on dismantling.
Locate the oil pump suction horn and secure with the
nuts and toothed washers.
8 Install the flywheel in the same relative position to the
crankshaft as was noted on dismantling. Replace the FIG 1 : 4 3 Adjusting the rocker clearances using the
optional service tools. Refer to Technical Data for the
correct clearance on early and late engines FIG 1 :42 Graduated sector C.673 for valve gear
timing
TIMING MARK

FIG 3 : 1 Ignition system wiring diagram
BATTERY
SWITCHBREAKER COIL
SPARK PLUG
CONDENSER
FIG 3 : 2 Ignition distributor in place on engine with
cap lifted offCURRENT CONTACT
TO SPARK PLUG
BREAKER A R M
STATIONARY
CONTACT
CARRIER
ADJUSTING
SCREW
CONTACT POINTS HIGH TENSION)
CARBON CONTACT
3 : 3 Routine maintenance
Refer to FIG 3: 2 and remove the distributor cap and lift
off the rotor arm. Lubricate the cam spindle felt pad using
Fiat VS oil. There is provision for the oil to make its way
downwards. Squirt a few drops of oil into the distributor
shaft lubrication fitting, the location being shown in FIG
3:3 Smear a little grease on the cam and a small drop of
oil to the contact breaker point pivot.
Adjusting the contact breaker points:
Refer to FIG 3 : 2 and slacken the stationary contact
carrier adjusting screw. Slowly rotate the engine until one
one of the t w o cams has opened the points to the fullest
48
extent so that the gap is measured at the position of the
maximum opening. Reset the gap to a correct clearance of
.0185 to .0209 inch and tighten the contact carrier screw.
Cleaning the contact points:
If the contact points are dirty or pitted they must be
cleaned by polishing them with a fine carborundum stone
taking very great care to ensure that the contact faces are
flat and square. Afterwards wipe away all dust with a cloth
moistened in petrol. The contacts may be removed from
the distributor body to assist refacing and cleaning refer-
ring to Section 3:5. If the moving contact is removed
from its pivot, check that its operation is not sluggish. If it is
tight, polish the pivot pin with a strip of fine emery cloth,
clean off all dust and apply a tiny spot of oil to the top of
the pivot pin. If a spring testing gauge is available the
contact breaker spring should have a tension of 16.8± 1.8
oz. measured at the points.
3 :4 Ignition faults
If the engine runs unevenly set it to idle at a fast speed.
Taking care not to touch any metal part of the sparking
plug leads, pull up the insulator sleeve and short each
plug in turn, using a screwdriver with an insulated handle.
Connect the screwdriver blade between the plug top and
the cylinder head. Shorting a plug which is firing properly
will make the engine uneven running more pronounced.
Shorting a plug in a cylinder which is not firing will make
no difference.
Having located the
faulty cylinder, stop the engine and
remove the plug lead. Start the engine and hold the lead
carefully to avoid shocks so that the metal end is about
3/16 inch away from the cylinder head. A strong regular
spark shows that the fault might be with the sparking plug.
Remove and clean it according to the instructions in
Section 3 :8. Alternatively substitute it with a new plug.
If the spark is weak and irregular, check that the lead is
not perished or cracked. If it appears to be defective,
renew it and try another test. If there is no improvement,
remove the distributor cap and wipe the inside clean and
dry. Check the carbon brush located as shown in FIG 3 : 2 .
It should protrude from the cap moulding and be free to
move against the pressure of the internal spring. Examine
the surface inside the cap for signs of 'tracking' which can
be seen as a thin black line between the electrodes or to
some metal part in contact with the cap. This is caused by
sparking, and the only cure is to fit a new cap.
Testing the low-tension circuit:
Before carrying out electrical tests, confirm that the
contact breaker points are clean and correctly set, then
proceed as follows:
1 Disconnect the black low-tension cable from the
ignition coil and from the side of the distributor.
Connect a test lamp between the t w o terminals. Turn
the engine over slowly. If the lamp lights when the
contacts close and goes out when they open, the
low-tension circuit is in order. If the lamp fails to light
the contacts are dirty or there is a break or loose con-
nection in the low-tension wiring.
2 If the fault lies in the
low-tension circuit, switch on
the ignition and turn the crankshaft until the contact
breaker points are fully open. Refer to the wiring
diagram in Technical Data and check the circuit with

a n 0—20 v o ltmeter. If the circuit is in order the meter
should read approximately 12-volts.
3 Battery to fuse box terminal 30. Connect the volt-
meter between the terminal 30 and earth. No reading
indicates a faulty cable or loose connection.
4 Fuse box. Connect the voltmeter between the other
auxiliary terminal 30 and earth. No reading indicates a
broken or loose connection.
5 Fuse box auxiliary terminal 30 to terminal
number 30 on ignition switch. Connect the meter
between terminal number 30 on the ignition switch
and earth. No reading indicates a damaged cable or
loose connection.
6 Ignition switch. Connect the meter between termi-
nal 15/54 and earth. Switch onto the ignition position,
when no reading indicates a fault in the switch.
7 Ignition switch to low-tension cable connection
on the coil (blue cable). Connect the meter
between ignition coil terminal (blue cable) and earth.
No reading indicates a damaged cable or loose con-
nection.
8 Ignition coil. Disconnect the black low-tension cable
connecting the coil to the distributor side terminal at
the coil and connect the meter between this terminal
and earth. No reading indicates a fault in the primary
winding of the coil and a replacement coil must be
fitted. If the reading is correct remake the connections
to the coil.
9 Ignition coil to distributor. Disconnect the thin
black low-tension cable at the side of the distributor
and connect the meter between the end of this cable
and earth. No reading indicates a damaged cable or
loose connections.
10 Contact breaker and capacitor. Connect the
meter across the contact breaker points. No reading
indicates a faulty capacitor.
Capacitor:
The best method of testing a capacitor (condenser) is
by substitution. Disconnect the original capacitor and
connect a new one between the low-tension terminal on
the side of the distributor and earth.
If a new capacitor is needed, fit a new one complete
w i t h bracket, but if necessary unsolder the original bracket
and solder it onto the new capacitor using as little heat as
possible. Capacitor capacity is .15-.20 microfarads.
3 : 5 Removing and dismantling distributor (sedan
and sports)
To remove the distributor proceed as follows:
1 Rotate the engine slowly until the distributor rotor arm
is opposite the brass segment in the distributor cap
connected to No. 1 plug lead. This will provide a datum
for replacement.
2 Disconnect the cable from the low-tension terminal on
the side of the distributor body. Mark position of distri-
butor on support. Release the distributor retaining nut
and washer from the underside of the top flange of the
distributor support and carefully lift away the dis-
tributor.
3 Pull off the rotor arm. Remove the insulated terminal
assembly from the side of distributor body. Release the
contact breaker carrier plate retaining screws and con-
denser flange screw from the outside of the distributor
F50049 body. Carefully lift out the contact breaker plate
assembly.
4 Before further dismantling note the relative positions of
the driving dog and the rotor arm driving slot at the top
of the distributor cam spindle. The driving dog is offset
and can only engage its driving spindle in one position.
Then when the cam assembly is fitted to the centrifugal
weights during reassembly the timing is not 180 deg.
out.
5 Take out the cam lubrication felt pad recessed in the
rotor arm housing on the end of the cam spindle.
Remove the retaining screw, carefully disengage the
springs and lift out the cam spindle. It should be noted
that there is a small retaining ball and spring located in a
drilling nearly at the top of the drive shaft spindle.
Carefully lift away the weights.
6 Thoroughly clean all parts and inspect for excessive
wear. The distributor cap must not be cracked or show
signs of tracking. The cap terminals, rotor and contact
breaker points can be cleaned with a very fine file.
Emerypaper must not be used. If the clearance between
the rotor and distributor cap segments exceeds .0118
inch both the rotor and distributor cap must be replaced.
Inspect the contact breaker arm rubbing block for exces-
sive wear and also the points for wear so that if the gap
exceeds the last setting limit of .0209 inch and adjust-
ment through the stationary contact carrier screw is no
longer possible (see FIG 3 : 2) , the contact breaker set
must be renewed.
If the distributor drive shaft side or vertical movement is
excessive the distributor must be renewed.
Weak centri-
fugal weight springs or damaged weights must be
renewed using original Fiat spares otherwise the auto-
matic ignition advance characteristics could be altered.
FIG 3 : 3 Ignition distributor in place on engine SPARK PLUG CABLES
IGNITION COIL CABLE!
DISTRIBUTOR CAP
DISTRIBUTOR BODY
GROUND CABLE
CONDENSER
DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT
LUBRICATION FITTING
DISTRIBUTORSUPPORT-TO--CRANKCASE NUT
[MOUNTING SCREWDISTRIBUTOR
DISTRIBUTOR SUPPORT

FIG 3 : 4 Use of fixture Ap.5030/1 to check ignition
timing
Reassembly is the reverse procedure to dismantling but
the following points should be noted:
1 Lubricate the parts of the centrifugal advance mecha-
nism, the drive spindle and the part of the shaft which
accepts the cam w i t h Fiat VS oil.
2 Ensure that upon reassembly the slot in the rotor arm
housing matches the distributor driving dog. Lubricate
the felt pad in the rotor arm housing.
3 Fit the distributor back onto its support gently rotating
the rotor arm so that the drive dog engages w i t h the
drive shaft mating flange. Provided the crankshaft has
not been turned the rotor arm should finish up pointing
to No. 1 cylinder segment in the distributor cap. Tighten
the distributor retaining nut, refit the distributor cap and
leads to the spark plugs and the LT lead to distributor
body terminal.
4 Add a few drops of oil to the distributor shaft lubrication
fitting (see FIG 3:3).
3 : 6 Removing and dismantling distributor
(station wagon)
The distributor is located towards the top rear of t h e
engine and is bolted direct onto the crankcase rear cover as
shown in FIG 1 : 2 . It is driven direct by a gear in mesh w i t h
a corresponding gear on the camshaft. The basic design of
the distributor is the same as that for the sedan and sports
engine, except that the distributor cap has been redesigned,
there is a gear instead of the dog
drive and no distributor
support. To remove and dismantle the distributor proceed
as previously described taking great care about marking
the location of the distributor to rear cover and rotating
the engine until No. 1 cylinder is on compression. This will
ensure that reassembly is straightforward without loss of
ignition timing.
503:7 Timing the ignition
It is necessary to retime the ignition should the distribu-
tor shaft or camshaft have been removed. To retime the
ignition proceed as follows:
1 On the timing sprocket cover fit Fiat tool AP.5030/1 as
shown in FIG 3 : 4. Ensure No. 1 cylinder is on the
compression stroke with both valves closed. Rotate the
crankshaft until the mark on the centrifugal filter cover
lines up w i t h the 10° mark on the fixture. This setting
corresponds to a 10° static advance BTDC.
2 Check t h a t the points gap is correctly set between
.018 and .020 inch. Turn the distributor shaft until the
rotor points in the direction of No. 1 segment in the
cap and the points are just opening.
3 Without disturbing the distributor shaft, insert the lower
coupling on its toothed end, install the support and
tighten the locknut. Secure the distributor to the sup-
port using the mounting screw.
To check that the distributor is properly timed to the
engine and the centrifugal automatic advance is operating
correctly giving a
total advance of 18° to 28° respectively
proceed as follows:
1 Connect Fiat timing tester AP.5030 with a 220-volt-
single-phase power outlet fitted with a good earth
connection. It is important that the tester is earthed
before it is allowed to operate. Also ensure that the
tester earth terminal is connected to a bare metal part
of the vehicle.
2 Remove No. 1 spark plug lead, insert the strobe light
adapter and reconnect the spark plug lead. Using a
piece of white chalk mark the TDC position on the
centrifugal filter cover.
3 Start the engine and aim the strobe light beam towards
the chalk mark drawn on the centrifugal filter cover.
With the engine running slowly the mark on the centri-
fugal cover must correspond wi th the first white line
on the fixture (10°). Slowly increase the speed of the
engine so operating the automatic advance and the
chalk mark should move counterclockwise until at
maximum speed it reaches the second white mark on
the fixture.
It should be noted that the ignition timing for the model
500 sports engine the static advance is 10°, an automatic
advance of 12° giving a total advance at maximum engine
speed of 2 2 ° .
Should Fiat fixture AP.5030/1 not be available the
advance position may be set as follows:
1 Turn over the
engine until No. 1 piston is on the com-
pression stroke w i t h both valves closed.
2 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the reference
mark cast on the centrifugal filter cover is set .5118 to
.5512 inch ahead of the arrow cast on the timing
sprocket cover. This will give a static advance setting
of 10° BTDC.
3 Proceed as directed for ignition distributor timing and
mounting described earlier in this section.
3 : 8 Sparking plugs
The sparking plugs must be regularly inspected, cleaned
and the electrode gap adjusted to a gap of .019 to .023
inch.
The inspection of the deposits on the electrodes is par-
ticularly useful because the colour and type of deposit

A tolerance of —10'.+ 15' is permitted providing
that the value is the same for both rear wheels. It is
important that both rear wheels are set to the same
angle otherwise uneven tyre wear and adverse handl-
ing conditions will result. When the wheel is parallel to
the centre line of the vehicle the pin of bracket
C.696/3 will be .216 inch apart from the pin of the
front suspension swinging arm.
7 Release the swinging arm outer support to body
mounting screws and position arm in such a way as to
obtain the condition as described in Number 6 above.
After the adjustment has been completed tighten
the outer support mounting screws to a torque wrench
setting of 28.9 to 36.2 Ib/ft. Also tighten the two
swinging arm pin nuts C (see FIG 7 : 7) to a torque
wrench setting of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib/ft. Take off the gauge
C.696 w i t h bracket and support C.696/3, and repeat
the check and adjustment operations on the other
wheel. Care must be taken to ensure that bracket
C.696/3 is reversed from the position previously used.
New 500 type 500D, 110F and 110L sedan and
station wagon:
After the rear suspension has been replaced, check
and, if necessary adjust the rear wheel geometry.
1 Inflate the tyres to the normal operating pressures.
2 Lower the car body so that the rear wheels are set at
90 deg. to the floor. This condition is obtained when
the lowermost portion of the sump is 6.61 inches from
the floor level for the new 500D model or the centre
rear bracket for jacking up the rear of t h e vehicle
8.9 inches from the floor level for the 500 Station
Wagon.
3 With the vehicle set to the above conditions check the
wheel geometry. The wheel plane must converge w i t h
the centre line of the vehicle by an angle of 0 deg. 10'
(—10', +15') toeing in at the front.
4 The wheel plane must be 22.343 ± .059 inches from
the centre line of the vehicle for the 500D model.
Whereas for the 500 Station Wagon the distance must
be 22.264 ± .059 inches.
5 To adjust the rear wheel toe-in adjust the positions of
the mounting screws A and B as shown in FIG 7:7.
86
7:7 Modifications
The new 500 Sedan (110F) and late 500 Station
Wagon are fitted with modified wheels side flexible
joints and rear control arm as shown in FIG 7:13.
Together w i t h these modifications a new design rear
coil spring has been fitted details of which are given in
Technical Data.
7 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Irregular or abnormal tyre wear
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Wheels out of balance
3 Wheels off centre
4 Misadjusted brakes
5 Weak or broken coil springs
6 Excessive load
7 Incorrect wheel alignment
(b) Sag on one wheel
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Weak or broken coil spring
3 Wear of shock absorber causing poor dampening
action
(c) Squeaks, thumps or rattles
1 Wheels out of balance
2 Wheels off centre
3 Misadjusted brakes
4 Weak or broken coil springs or spring seats dislodged
5 Wear of shock absorbers causing poor dampening
action
6 Worn rubber bushings in control arms
7 Poor lubrication of wheel bearings
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Misadjusted brakes
3 Distorted suspension arm

2 Check that the surface of the pin that is in contact with
the camber and castor adjuster shims does not show
any signs of indentation or roughness which could
affect the accuracy of adjustment on reassembly. If
there are any signs of rust or small markings these
should be smoothed out using a file.
3 Inspect the condition of the half arm bushes, the inner
surface of which must not show signs of seizure and
the clearance of the bush to pin must not be greater
than .01 57 inch. Upon initial assembly the fit clearance
is .00059 to .0059 inch. Ensure t h a t the rubber parts
of the bush are not torn, cracked or show signs of
weakness which, if evident, must be renewed.
4 Use Fiat tool A.66058 or a suitably sized drift for
refitting the rubber bushes into the swinging arms.
Upon reassembly it should be observed that the
tightening of the two swinging arms m o u n t i n g nuts 5
(see FIG 8 : 3) , must be carried out whilst keeping
the axis of the swinging arm and the pin hole for the
screws 7 on the same plane otherwise distortion can
occur.
8 : 5 Kingpin housing
1 To remove and replace the 'estendblocks' use Fiat
tool A.66056 as shown in FIG 8 : 8. Ensure t h a t the
'estendblocks' is not worn and that there are no signs
of seizure on its inner surface, or that the rubber has
hardened. Renew if necessary.
2 Check that the kingpin to bush clearance is not
greater than .0079 inch. The clearance when fitted
new is .00063 to .00213 inch. If the clearance is
excessive the t w o bushes must be renewed and also
the kingpin if excessive wear is evident. To remove and
refit the kingpin bushes use Fiat tool A.66016 and
after reassembly the bushes must be accurately
refaced using a reamer set to a diameter of .5912 to
.5922 inch. If considered necessary use Fiat Fixture
C.1004 to check that the kingpin housing has not been
distorted which, if evident, the housing must be
renewed.
3 Whilst the kingpin assembly is being inspected ensure
that the lubrication hole is free to allow the passage of
oil.
4 To prevent incorrect loading of the 'estendblocks' that
is press fitted into the kingpin housing, the housing
to swinging arm pin nut must be tightened with the
parts so arranged that the angle between the swinging
arm plane and the housing axis is approximately
95 deg. as shown in FIG 8:14.
8:6 Steering knuckle and wheel hub
Dismantling:
1 To remove the wheel hub cap use Fiat puller A.46023
as shown in FIG 8 : 9 .
2 Using a universal t w o leg puller or Fiat puller A.40005
together with items 1 and 9 remove the wheel hub/
drum assembly having first extracted the splitpin and
released the hub retaining nut (see FIG 8:10). Later
models have a staked nut w i t h no splitpin. The nut
should be freed with a punch and discarded.
3 Remove the outer roller bearing, the oil seal and the
inner roller bearing outer race from the drum and pull
out the steering knuckle inner roller bearing inner ring
using Fiat puller A.46000
F500PULLER
A.46023
FIG 8 : 9 Removing right front wheel hub cap by
remover A.46023
UNIVERSAL PULLER A. 40005/
FIG 8:10 Removing left front wheel brake drum by
puller A.40005
4 Release the t w o brake to steering knuckle mounting
nuts and remove the complete brake housing flange.
5 To remove the steering knuckle from the kingpin
housing, remove the 'estendblock' from the kingpin
housing using Fiat drift A.66056 or a suitably sized
drift as shown in FIG 8 : 8.
6 Using a suitably sized punch drive the lockpin from the
kingpin, remove the lower plug and slide off the
kingpin. The steering knuckle is then disengaged
together with the snap ring, two thrust washers and a
shoulder ring.
Inspection:
Thoroughly clean all parts and dry using a compressed
air jet and to inspect proceed as follows:
1 Check that the steering knuckle and steering arm show
91

to the body and proceed as follows:
1 If the camber angle requires to be increased (see FIG
8:16) add the same number of shims S on both
screws D and E.
2 If the camber angle requires to be reduced (see FIG
8:16) remove the same number of shims from both
screws D and E.
The addition or removal of shims at the t w o points D
and E permits camber adjustment to be made without
any disturbing of the castor angle.
8:10 Modifications
Checking and adjusting castor and camber angles:
When checking the castor and camber angle the
static loading should be such that the distance between
the semi-elliptic spring mountings G (see FIG 8:16)
and the floor level to be approximately 6.81 inches, also a
distance between the lowermost portion of the sump and
the floor level of approximately 6.14 inch for the Model
500D. For the 500 Station Wagon version the distance
between centre rear bracket for jacking-up the vehicle
and the floor level should be approximately 8.90 inches.
All other front wheel alignment specifications are the
same as for the remaining 500 saloon models.
8:11 Fault diagnosis
(a) Wheel bounce
1 Tyre casing faulty
2 Uneven tyre pressures
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Semi-elliptic mounting spring worn5 Weak or seized shock absorber
6 Wheel rim or tyre misaligned
(b) Suspension noise
1 Lack of lubrication
2 Noisy or inoperative shock absorbers
3 Worn or loose wheel bearings
(c) Pull to one side
1 Low or uneven tyre pressures
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Suspension arms distorted
4 Inoperative shock absorbers
5 Brakes binding
(d) Excessive t y r e wear
1 Incorrect tyre rotation during servicing periods
2 Incorrect camber angle
3 Incorrect toe-in
4 Incorrect tyre inflation
5 Excessive play at wheel bearings
6 Wheel wobble
7 Stiff suspension arms
8 Brakes out of adjustment
(e) Wheel wobble
1 Uneven tyre pressures
2 Loose or worn wheel bearings
3 Inoperative shock absorbers
4 Loose steering knuckle or kingpin housing
5 Incorrect front wheel alignment
6 Control arm rubber bushings, or kingpin housing and
semi-elliptic spring 'estendblock' worn
96

normal straight-ahead position with the spokes
horizontal. Check that the wheels are in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Load the vehicle to static load conditions or with four
average size passengers.
3 Move the vehicle forwards for a distance of approxi-
mately six yards so that the suspension may settle
correctly.
4 The toe-in measurements should be taken at the same
point of the wheel rim. Measure at A (see FIG 9 : 8)
then back up the car to bring points A to the position B
and remeasure. The value obtained at A should be
equal to or greater than B within .0079 inch.
5 As previously described the steering rods are adjust-
able in length. Loosen the clamps and screw in or out
the adjusting sleeves and before tightening the clamp
ensure that the sleeve slot registers w i t h the clamp
joint. With the clamp fully tightened there should
always be a gap between the joint faces.
6 If the steering gear has been re-installed the correct
front wheel toe-in must be set. Then the relay lever pin
nut must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 78
to 85 Ib/ft.
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Front wheel shimmy
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose front wheel bearings
4 Wheels out of balance
5 Loose steering linkage connections
6 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
7 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
(b) Hard steering
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(c) Hard turning when stationary
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
102
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
4 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
5 Unequal brake adjustment
6 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(e) Rattles
1 Loose steering linkage connections
2 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
3 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
4 Lack of lubrication
( f ) Loose steering
1 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
2 Loose steering linkage connections
3 Loose steering gear mountings
4 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(g) Jerky steering
1 Incorrect front wheel alignment
2 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Loose steering linkage connections
5 Loose or incorrect fitting of worm to sector
(h) Side-to-side wander
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose steering linkage connections
4 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
5 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
6 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arm
7 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(i) Tyre squeal on turns
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect wheel alignment
3 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms