bearings FIAT 500 1970 1.G User Guide

although these do not affect the service procedures that
have been previously described.
6:12 Fault diagnosis
(a) Noisy transmission
1 Excessive backlash of gears in mesh due to gear wear
2 Gears, bearings or gear bushings damaged
3 Shafts misaligned or out of centre due to loose mount-
ing nuts
4 Dirt or metal chips in the lubricant
5 Insufficient oil level in transmission case
(b) Transmission jumps out of gear or gear
shifting is irregular
1 Improper shifting
2 Gear shift lever mounting bracket out of adjustment
3 Incorrect assembly or damage of striker rod positioning
balls and springs
4 Striker rod rollers worn or assembled incorrectly
(c) Oil leakage
1 Overfilled transmission case2 Front extension, upper cover and clutch housing nutsloose
3 Speed selector and engagement lever seal at front
extension damaged
4 Faulty bellhousing gasket
5 Gaskets, upper cover-to-case, front extension-to-case,
damaged
6 Damaged axle shaft boot or seal
(d) Transmission shifts hard
1 Defective link of gear shift lever to internal front lever
2 Internal front lever rubber bushing and plates damaged
3 Speed selector and engagement lever control rod
twisted
4 Control rod-to-speed selector and engagement lever
joint damaged
5 Speed selector and engagement lever worn
6 Striker rods binding in casing
7 Sliding sleeves and gears bound in their seats due to
the presence of dirt in splines
8 Improper quality of transmission lubricant
9 Misadjusted clutch linkage and clutch make de-
clutching impossible
78

CHAPTER 7
REAR SUSPENSION AND WHEELS
7:1
7:2
7:3
7:4Description
Removal of rear suspension assembly
Servicing swinging arms
Coil springs
7:1 Description
The rear wheels are independently sprung by means of
coil springs and V-shaped swinging arms acting on coil
springs and telescopic double acting hydraulic shock
absorbers. The swinging arms are m o u n t e d at their inner
ends on 'estendblocks', the coil spring is fitted at the outer
end of the swinging arm. At the wheel end of the suspen-
sion arm is attached a steel pressing to which the brake
backplate and wheel bearing housing are bolted so
forming a swinging unit to which is attached the road
wheel.
The inner pivots are so located vertical wheel move-
ments do not influence the drive shaft length which
means that there is no need to fit a splined joint at the
wheel end. Two taper roller bearings which are separated
by a specially designed collapsible spacer are located in
the rear wheel bearing housing and this carries the axle
shaft. The outer end of the axle shaft is flanged and it
is to this flange that the brake drum is bolted. The splined
inner end carries a rubber cushioned coupling to which
the drive shaft flange is attached.
7 : 2 Removal of rear suspension assembly
1 Jack-up the vehicle and place on firmly based stands.
Remove the road wheel on the side from which the
suspension unit is to be removed.
F50079 7:5
7:6
7:7
7:8Installation of rear suspension assembly
Checking and adjusting rear wheel toe-in
Modifications
Fault diagnosis
2 Using a garage hydraulic jack support the swinging
arm to facilitate the removal of the upper shock
absorber mounting nut which is located inside the
vehicle on the floor. To gain access to the nut remove
the rear wheel housing linings.
3 Unhook the parking brake shoe control lever return
spring.
4 Remove the three screws securing the drive shaft
flange to the flexible coupling. Pull back the sleeve and
remove the inner spring.
5 Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, remove the filter
and plug the delivery hole in the brake f l u i d reservoir
and disconnect the flexible brake pipe from the
bracket on the body floor.
6 Disconnect the parking brake control tie rod by first
removing the cotter pin and removing the cable eye
from the pin on the shoe control lever. Release the
cable adjustment nuts and free the cable from the
fairlead on the swinging arm.
7 Using the hydraulic jack carefully lower the swinging
arm, fully retract the shock absorber by pushing in the
outer cylinder and carefully pull out the coil spring
together with its mounting rubber rings.
8 Remove the self-locking nut securing the swinging
arm to the internal support welded on the floor.
Extract the mounting pin and note the number and
arrangement of shims between the bushings and the
bracket. This will facilitate reassembly.

FIG 7 : 1 Rear suspension assembly
Key to Fig 7 : 1 1 Brake shoe control cable and sheath 2 Coil spring 3 Oil boot 4 Axle shaft 5 Bumper
6 Flexible joint 7 Swinging arm 8 Cable adjusting nut 9 Swinging arm-to-front bracket mounting pin
10 Swinging arm front bracket-to-underbody mounting screw 11 Engine front support crossmember 12 Swinging arm
rear self-locking nut 13 Shock absorber-to-swinging arm lower nut 14 Sleeve screws 15 Axle shaft-to-flexible joint sleeve
9 Remove the three swinging external support fixing
bolts securing the outer suspension arm bracket to the
vehicle floor and remove the rear suspension assembly.
Remove the special rubber pad located between the
support bracket and the vehicle floor.
7 : 3 Servicing swing arms
Dismantling:
1 Remove the cotter pin and release the nut fixing the
flexible joint to the wheel shaft. Remove the plain
washer and the joint.
2 Using Fiat tool A.40005.1.9 or a universal two-leg
puller, remove the wheel shaft and brake drum.
Extract the t w o oil seals and both the outer and inner
bearing inner rings, thrust ring of the joint and the
resilient spacer.
3 Using Fiat tool A.6511, remove the t w o bearing outer
rings.
4 Disconnect the brake hydraulic line at the wheel
cylinder and remove the swinging external support.
The bearing housing and brake housing flange may
then be removed.
Inspection :
Thoroughly clean all the parts and install the swinging
arm on Fiat fixture A.66064 as shown in FIG 7 : 4. If the
80
swinging arm has not been distorted its installation on the
fixture should be straightforward. Tighten the clamp
screws 1 (see FIG 7 : 3) on the road wheel brake drum,
connect the swinging arm inner member to the seating
2 on the fixture and finally fit the swinging arm external
support holes on the fixture pins 3. Should difficulty be
experienced in either one of these three operations then
this is an indication that the swinging arm is distorted and
should be straightened or a new assembly fitted. If this
check is satisfactory proceed as follows:
1 Check that the 'estendblocks' are a snug fit in their
respective seatings in the swinging arm and that the
mounting pin slides in freely w it h ou t excessive play.
To renew the 'estendblocks' use Fiat tool A.66056
which is suitable for both their removal and installation.
2 Check that the inner and outer bearing outer rings have
no play in their seatings and that the rollers and cages
are not broken, cracked, show signs of overheating
or are worn.
3 Ensure t h a t the o i l seals f i t snugly on the wheel shaft,
also on the joint spacer or shoulder ring and on the
hub seats. If the oil seals should show any signs of wear
then these should be renewed.
4 Inspect the resilient spacer for signs of hair line cracks,
which if not evident the spacer may be used again as
it is not permanently distorted during assembly.
Should, however, new bearings or bearing housings
be fitted it is considered good practice to fit a new
spacer.

FIG 7 : 3 Fixture A.66064, for swinging arm inspection
and adjustment
Key to Fig 7 : 3 1 Clamp screws, securing wheel shaft on
fixture 2 Alignment bracket, swinging arm member check-up
3 Nut, to secure swinging arm external support on fixture stud
4 Swinging arm external support centring pins
AB C
D
FIG 7 : 4 Adjusting right rear suspension swinging arm
on fixture A.66064
Key to Fig 7 : 4 A and B Swinging arm external support
adjustment shims C and D Swinging arm internal support
adjustment shims
torque wrench setting of 43.4 Ib/ft.
3 During assembly the bearings must be packed w i t h
Fiat MR grease, taking care not to overpack as this
can result in early bearing failure.
82
4 If the axle shaft to flexible joint tie sleeve has been
removed, the mating splines must be coated w i t h Fiat
B2G grease on re-installation.
5 Preload the wheel bearings and adjust the swinging
arm as described later on in this section.
Wheel bearing adjustment:
To ensure a long bearing life due to correct initial
adjustment the ballbearings should be preloaded and to
do this proceed as follows:
1 Tighten the wheel shaft nut gradually so that the
rotation torque does not exceed .36 Ib/ft.
2 To check the rotation torque install Fiat tool A.95697/2
on the wheel drum and insert the shank 2 (see FIG
7:5) of dynomometer A.95697 in the support and
securely hold the lever 3. Move the needle 5 to register
.36 Ib/ft on the dynomometer scale as shown in FIG
7:5 and using the operating lever 6 rotate the dyno-
mometer and the wheel shaft some turns in a clockwise
direction. During rotation check that the needle 5 does
not exceed the setting index 4. Should the rotation
torque prove to exceed .36 Ib/ft, this will indicate a
4
3
1
6
5 2
FIG 7 : 5 Bearing rotation torque dynamometer
KeytoFig7:5 1 Dynamometer A.95697 2 Dynamometer
shank to insert in item A.95697/2, fitted to wheel drum
3 Dynamometer grip lever 4 Rotation torque setting index
5 Adjustable needle 6 Dynamometer operating lever
Oil Sump Wheel Plane
HALF TRACK
FIG 7 : 6 Position of rear suspension and of vehicle for
rear wheel toe-in inspection and adjustment
Key to Fig 7:6 ~ 168 mm = 6.61 inch
567,5 ±1,5= 22.342 inch ± .059 inch

A tolerance of —10'.+ 15' is permitted providing
that the value is the same for both rear wheels. It is
important that both rear wheels are set to the same
angle otherwise uneven tyre wear and adverse handl-
ing conditions will result. When the wheel is parallel to
the centre line of the vehicle the pin of bracket
C.696/3 will be .216 inch apart from the pin of the
front suspension swinging arm.
7 Release the swinging arm outer support to body
mounting screws and position arm in such a way as to
obtain the condition as described in Number 6 above.
After the adjustment has been completed tighten
the outer support mounting screws to a torque wrench
setting of 28.9 to 36.2 Ib/ft. Also tighten the two
swinging arm pin nuts C (see FIG 7 : 7) to a torque
wrench setting of 43.4 to 50.6 Ib/ft. Take off the gauge
C.696 w i t h bracket and support C.696/3, and repeat
the check and adjustment operations on the other
wheel. Care must be taken to ensure that bracket
C.696/3 is reversed from the position previously used.
New 500 type 500D, 110F and 110L sedan and
station wagon:
After the rear suspension has been replaced, check
and, if necessary adjust the rear wheel geometry.
1 Inflate the tyres to the normal operating pressures.
2 Lower the car body so that the rear wheels are set at
90 deg. to the floor. This condition is obtained when
the lowermost portion of the sump is 6.61 inches from
the floor level for the new 500D model or the centre
rear bracket for jacking up the rear of t h e vehicle
8.9 inches from the floor level for the 500 Station
Wagon.
3 With the vehicle set to the above conditions check the
wheel geometry. The wheel plane must converge w i t h
the centre line of the vehicle by an angle of 0 deg. 10'
(—10', +15') toeing in at the front.
4 The wheel plane must be 22.343 ± .059 inches from
the centre line of the vehicle for the 500D model.
Whereas for the 500 Station Wagon the distance must
be 22.264 ± .059 inches.
5 To adjust the rear wheel toe-in adjust the positions of
the mounting screws A and B as shown in FIG 7:7.
86
7:7 Modifications
The new 500 Sedan (110F) and late 500 Station
Wagon are fitted with modified wheels side flexible
joints and rear control arm as shown in FIG 7:13.
Together w i t h these modifications a new design rear
coil spring has been fitted details of which are given in
Technical Data.
7 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Irregular or abnormal tyre wear
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Wheels out of balance
3 Wheels off centre
4 Misadjusted brakes
5 Weak or broken coil springs
6 Excessive load
7 Incorrect wheel alignment
(b) Sag on one wheel
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Weak or broken coil spring
3 Wear of shock absorber causing poor dampening
action
(c) Squeaks, thumps or rattles
1 Wheels out of balance
2 Wheels off centre
3 Misadjusted brakes
4 Weak or broken coil springs or spring seats dislodged
5 Wear of shock absorbers causing poor dampening
action
6 Worn rubber bushings in control arms
7 Poor lubrication of wheel bearings
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Misadjusted brakes
3 Distorted suspension arm

FIG 8:14 Swing arm setting
car. Ensure t h a t the upper elastic supports on the
studs projecting from the underside of the vehicle
body are correctly located and insert the spring. Fit
the two support lower caps w i t h elastic pads and
screw onto the stud nuts to a torque wrench setting
of 28.9 Ib/ft.
2 Assemble the brake housing flange onto the steering
knuckle and tighten the nuts to a torque wrench
setting of 14.5 Ib/ft.
3 Assemble the roller bearings and seal into the drum
hub. Pack the bearings and fill the recess between the
bearings w i t h Fiat MR3 grease or an equivalent, and
lightly smear the stub axle. Fit the drum assembly over
the stub axle and replace the washer and nut. Note
that from vehcle number 043624 the righthand hub
has a lefthand thread, the nut being identified by a
circular groove on the outside face. On hubs locked
with a splitpin, tighten the nut to 21.7 Ib/ft, back it off
by approximately 60 deg. (one flat) and fit the splitpin.
On the later pattern hub, with no splitpin, fit a new nut
and make sure it screws in freely. Tighten it to 14.5
Ib/ft, while rocking the hub four or five times to make
sure the bearing is properly seated. Undo the nut
completely, then tighten it again to 5.1 Ib/ft. Back it
off 30 deg. (half a flat) and lock it by staking the rim
into the stub axle spline. Hub end play should be
.001 to .0039 inch.
4 Using Fiat tool A.66059 as shown in FIG 8:13,
reassemble the cap to the hub. Also reassemble the
steering knuckle to the kingpin housing replacing
the t w o upper
thrust rings, the snap ring and the
lower packing ring whose thickness has already been
selected as detailed in Section 8:6 to take up any
play between the knuckle and the kingpin housing.
Secure the steering knuckle pin with the cotter.
5 Reconnect the swinging arm to the wheel assembly
using the special nut and bolt. The nut must be
screwed onto the bolt A (see FIG 8:14), by arranging
the parts so that the angle between the arm plane
and the kingpin housing is approximately 95 deg. as
shown in FIG 8:14. Tighten the nut to a torque
wrench setting of 39.8 Ib/ft.
94
Key to Fig 8:15(9° = Kingpin housing castor angle) FIG 8:15 Section through steering knuckle and leaf
spring mounting at kingpin

to the body and proceed as follows:
1 If the camber angle requires to be increased (see FIG
8:16) add the same number of shims S on both
screws D and E.
2 If the camber angle requires to be reduced (see FIG
8:16) remove the same number of shims from both
screws D and E.
The addition or removal of shims at the t w o points D
and E permits camber adjustment to be made without
any disturbing of the castor angle.
8:10 Modifications
Checking and adjusting castor and camber angles:
When checking the castor and camber angle the
static loading should be such that the distance between
the semi-elliptic spring mountings G (see FIG 8:16)
and the floor level to be approximately 6.81 inches, also a
distance between the lowermost portion of the sump and
the floor level of approximately 6.14 inch for the Model
500D. For the 500 Station Wagon version the distance
between centre rear bracket for jacking-up the vehicle
and the floor level should be approximately 8.90 inches.
All other front wheel alignment specifications are the
same as for the remaining 500 saloon models.
8:11 Fault diagnosis
(a) Wheel bounce
1 Tyre casing faulty
2 Uneven tyre pressures
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Semi-elliptic mounting spring worn5 Weak or seized shock absorber
6 Wheel rim or tyre misaligned
(b) Suspension noise
1 Lack of lubrication
2 Noisy or inoperative shock absorbers
3 Worn or loose wheel bearings
(c) Pull to one side
1 Low or uneven tyre pressures
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Suspension arms distorted
4 Inoperative shock absorbers
5 Brakes binding
(d) Excessive t y r e wear
1 Incorrect tyre rotation during servicing periods
2 Incorrect camber angle
3 Incorrect toe-in
4 Incorrect tyre inflation
5 Excessive play at wheel bearings
6 Wheel wobble
7 Stiff suspension arms
8 Brakes out of adjustment
(e) Wheel wobble
1 Uneven tyre pressures
2 Loose or worn wheel bearings
3 Inoperative shock absorbers
4 Loose steering knuckle or kingpin housing
5 Incorrect front wheel alignment
6 Control arm rubber bushings, or kingpin housing and
semi-elliptic spring 'estendblock' worn
96

normal straight-ahead position with the spokes
horizontal. Check that the wheels are in the straight-
ahead position.
2 Load the vehicle to static load conditions or with four
average size passengers.
3 Move the vehicle forwards for a distance of approxi-
mately six yards so that the suspension may settle
correctly.
4 The toe-in measurements should be taken at the same
point of the wheel rim. Measure at A (see FIG 9 : 8)
then back up the car to bring points A to the position B
and remeasure. The value obtained at A should be
equal to or greater than B within .0079 inch.
5 As previously described the steering rods are adjust-
able in length. Loosen the clamps and screw in or out
the adjusting sleeves and before tightening the clamp
ensure that the sleeve slot registers w i t h the clamp
joint. With the clamp fully tightened there should
always be a gap between the joint faces.
6 If the steering gear has been re-installed the correct
front wheel toe-in must be set. Then the relay lever pin
nut must be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 78
to 85 Ib/ft.
9 : 8 Fault diagnosis
(a) Front wheel shimmy
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose front wheel bearings
4 Wheels out of balance
5 Loose steering linkage connections
6 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
7 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
(b) Hard steering
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(c) Hard turning when stationary
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
102
(d) Pull to one side
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
4 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms
5 Unequal brake adjustment
6 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(e) Rattles
1 Loose steering linkage connections
2 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
3 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
4 Lack of lubrication
( f ) Loose steering
1 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
2 Loose steering linkage connections
3 Loose steering gear mountings
4 Incorrect adjustment of steering worm to worm sector
(g) Jerky steering
1 Incorrect front wheel alignment
2 Incorrect front wheel bearing adjustment
3 Wheels out of balance
4 Loose steering linkage connections
5 Loose or incorrect fitting of worm to sector
(h) Side-to-side wander
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect front wheel alignment
3 Loose steering linkage connections
4 Loose steering gear or relay lever support at body
mountings
5 Incorrect fitting of steering worm to worm sector
6 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arm
7 Semi-elliptic spring weak or broken
(i) Tyre squeal on turns
1 Incorrect tyre pressure
2 Incorrect wheel alignment
3 Distorted kingpin housing or swinging arms

2 Using Fiat puller A.46023 as shown in FIG 8 : 9
remove the wheel grease cap.
3 Using a universal t w o leg puller or Fiat puller A.40005
together w i t h items 1 and 9 remove the wheel hub/
drum assembly having first extracted the splitpin if
fitted and released the hub retaining nut (see FIG
8:10).
Dismantling brake unit:
1 Using a compressed air jet thoroughly clean all com-
ponents of the brake assembly.
2 Make a note of the location of the shoe return springs
and gently ease the shoes away from the brake
backplate (see FIG 10:2).
3 Disconnect the hydraulic line from the rear of t h e
wheel cylinder and remove the t w o cylinder retaining
bolts. Lift away the hydraulic cylinder.
Brake shoe lining:
Check the lining thickness and if found to be exces-
sively reduced service replacement shoes must be fitted.
The minimum allowable brake lining thickness is .059
inch.
Thoroughly check the linings for signs of oil or grease
which, if evident, the shoes must be renewed and the
drums and oil seals thoroughly inspected for the cause
of oil ingress and the cause remedied before reassembly.
Do not fit odd brake shoes and do not mix materials or
unbalanced braking will result.
Do not allow grease, oil or paint to contact the friction
linings.
Brake drums:
Whilst servicing the brakes, thoroughly inspect the
drums for scoring, ovality or distortion as well as inspect-
ing for minute hair line cracks. The drums may be refaced
by using a centre lathe and finally finishing by lapping
the drums to smooth out possible tool marks. The
maximum permissible oversize beyond the nominal drum
diameter of 6.702 to 6.712 inch is .039 inch. This limit
must never be exceeded otherwise the strength of the
drum will be impaired or a reduction in braking efficiency
caused by the increase of shoe expansion travel and the
consequent diminished contact pressure.
No brake adjustment will be required on the new 500
Saloon models after the drum has been reassembled as
the self-adjusting device will accommodate for the shoe
position to the new drum diameter during the first
operation of the brake pedal.
Reassembly of front brakes:
This is the reverse procedure to dismantling. Ensure
that the pull-off springs are correctly fitted to the holes in
the webs of the brake shoes and that the shoes register
correctly in the slotted ends of the pistons and the
side
mounting plate.
Upon assembly of the hub and brake drum assembly
liberally pack the space between the two bearings w i t h
Fiat MR grease, and remount the hub according to the
instructions in Chapter 8.
F500
FIG 10:3 Section view of left side f r o n t brake assembly
(500 Station Wagon)
Key to Fig 10:3 1 Wheel cylinder 2 Shoe return spring
3 Adjusting cams 4 Shoe guide pin 5 Shoe with lining
6 Drum 7 Housing flange
BRAKE SHOE
ADJUSTING DEVICE
SHOE WEDGE
SELF
WHEEL CYLINDER
SHOE RETURN SPRING
PARKING BRAKE
SHOE CONTROL
RETURN SPRINGS
LEVER
SHOE LOCK PLATEBRAKE SHOES
SHOE RETURN SPRING
SHOE MOUNTING PLATE
FIG 1 0:4 Right rear wheel brake assembly (500 Sedan)
10:4 Rear brakes
Rear brake drum removal:
1 Remove the wheel trims and carefully slacken the road
wheel retaining bolts. Using a garage hydraulic jack
raise the rear of t h e vehicle and place on firmly based
stands. Remove the road wheels.
2 Remove the four drum to hub retaining bolts and
spring washers and carefully withdraw the drum from
the backplate assembly.
Dismantling brake unit:
1 Using a compressed air jet thoroughly clean all
components of the brake assembly.
105

FIG 11:1 Battery location
CLAMP LOCKING NUTSIGNITION LOCK !
SWITCH CABLE*"? BATTERY CLAMP MINUS GROUND CABLE
STARTING MOTOR
PLUS CABLE
65
4 3
2 1
FIG 11:2 Cross-section view of battery
Key to Fig 11:2 1 Battery container 2 Sealing compound
3 Cell plug 4 Filler neck with vent slots 5 Terminal post
6 Electrolyte level sight on filler neck
To test the condition of the cells use a hydrometer to
check the specific gravity of the.electrolyte. The readings
obtained should be as follows:
For climates below 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.270 to 1.290
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.1 90 to 1.21 0
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.11 0 to 1.130
For climates above 27°C or 80°F:
Cell fully charged Specific gravity 1.210 to 1.230
Cell half-discharged Specific gravity 1.130 to 1.150
Cell discharged Specific gravity 1.050 to 1.070
112These figures are given assuming an electrolyte
temperature of 16°C or 60°F. If the temperature of the
electrolyte exceeds this, add .002 to the readings for each
3°C or 5°F rise in temperature. Subtract .002 if it drops
below 16°C or 60°F.
All six cells should read approximately the same. If one
differs radically from the rest it may be due to an internal
fault or to spillage or leakage of the electrolyte.
If the battery is in a low state of charge take the car for
a long daylight run or connect it to an external battery
charger set at an output of 4 amps until it gases freely.
When putting the battery on a charger, remove the vent
plugs and ensure that no naked lights are in the vicinity.
If the battery is to stand unused for long periods give a
freshening up charge every month. It will deteriorate
rapidly if it is left in a discharged state.
11 :3 The generator
An exploded view of the generator is shown in
FIG 11 : 3 .
Testing when generator is not charging:
1 Check that drive belt slip is not the cause of the
trouble. Tension should be such that the belt can be
deflected about
inch under a 22 Ib pressure as
shown in FIG 1 :49. To adjust the drive belt tension
remove the three nuts B, FIG 1 :49, on the generator
pulley and this will split the pulley into two parts
between which are placed spacer rings. The tension of
the belt is increased or decreased by either reducing
or increasing the number of spacers. Place the spacer
rings removed from between the pulley halves on the
pulley outer face so that the rings may be reinserted
when fitting a new belt. Tighten the three nuts to a
torque wrench setting of 14.5 Ib ft. Care must be taken
not to over-tighten the belt or excessive loading will
be placed on the generator bearings causing excessive
bearing wear and noisy operation.
2 Check the generator connections. Generator terminal
51 must be connected to the generator regulator
terminal 51 and the generator terminal 67 to the
regulator terminal 67. Switch off all lights and
accessories and disconnect the cables from the
generator terminals 67 and 5 1 . Connect the two
terminals with a short length of wire. Run the engine at
normal idling speed and clip the negative lead of a
0-20 volt moving coil meter to one generator terminal
and the other lead to a good earth on the generator
body. Gradually increase the
engine speed up to about
1000 rev/min. The voltmeter reading should rise
steadily and without signs of fluctuation, but do not let
it reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an
attempt to increase the reading.
3 If there is no reading check the brush gear. If the
reading is about half to one volt the field winding may
be faulty. If approximately four to five volts the arma-
ture may be faulty.
4 If the generator is in good order leave the temporary
link in position between the terminals and restore the
original connections correctly. Remove the terminal
51 from the regulator and connect the voltmeter
between this lead and a good earth on the car. Run
the engine as before. The reading should be the same
as that measured directly on the generator. No reading