time FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK

A


Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

Suspension and steering 10*13
the skill required to use It properly, the checking and adjustment of these settings Is best left to a Fiat dealer or similar expert. Most tyre-fitting shops now possess sophisticated checking equipment. 3 For accurate checking, the vehicle must be at the kerb weight specified in Dimensions and weights. 4 Before starting work, check first that the tyre sizes and types are as specified (see Tyre pressures in Weekly checks), then check tyre pressures and tread wear. Also check roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub bearings, the steering wheel free play and the condition of the front suspension components (Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or
1B).
Correct any faults found. 6 Park the vehicle on level ground, with the front roadwheeis in the straight-ahead position. Rock the rear and front ends to settle the suspension. Release the handbrake and roll the vehicle backwards approximately 1 metre, then forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the steering and suspension components. 6 Two methods are available to the home mechanic for checking the front wheel toe setting. One method is to use a gauge to measure the distance between the front and rear inside edges of the roadwheeis. The other method is to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel is rolled across a movable plate which records any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the straight-ahead position as It moves across the plate. Such gauges are available in relatively-inexpensive form from accessory outlets. It Is up to the owner to decide whether the expense is justified, In view of the small amount of use such equipment would normally receive. 7 Prepare the vehicle 8S described in paragraphs 3 to 5 above.
8 If the measurement procedure is being used, carefully measure the distance between the front edges of the roadwheel rims and the rear edges of the rims. Subtract the front measurement from the rear measurement, and check that the result is within the specified range. If not, adjust the toe setting as described in paragraph 10. 9 If scuff plates are to be used, roll the vehicle backwards, check that the roadwheeis are in the straight-ahead position, then roll it across the scuff plates so that each front roadwheel passes squarely over the centre of its respective plate. Note the angle recorded by the scuff plates. To ensure accuracy, repeat the check three times, and take the average of the three readings, if the roadwheeis are running parallel, there will of course be no angle recorded; If a deviation value Is shown on the scuff plates, compare the reading obtained for each wheel with that supplied by the scuff plate manufacturers. If the value recorded is outside Ihe specified tolerance, the toe setting is incorrect, and must be adjusted as follows. Adjustment 10 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record the number of exposed threads on the right-hand track-rod. Now turn the steering onto full-right lock, and record the number of threads on the left-hand side. If there are the same number of threads visible on both sides, then subsequent adjustment should be made equally on both sides. If there are more threads visible on one side than the other, it will be necessary to compensate for this during adjustment Note: It is important to ensure that, after adjustment, the same number of threads are visible on the end of each track-rod.
11 First clean the track-rod threads; If they are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before starting adjustment. Release the steering gear rubber gaiter outboard clips, then peel back the gaiters and apply a smear of grease, so that both gaiters are free and will not be twisted or strained as their respective track-rods are rotated. 12 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or similar to mark the relationship of each track-rod to the track-rod end. Working on each track-rod end in tum, unscrew its locking nut. 13 Alter the length of the track-rods, bearing In mind the note in paragraph 10, by screwing them into or out of the track-rod ends. Rotate the track-rod using an open-ended spanner fitted to the flats provided. If necessary, counterhold the track-rod end using a second spanner. Shortening the track-rods (screwing them Into their track-rod ends) will reduce toe-in and increase toe-out. 14 When the setting Is correct, hold the track-rods and securely tighten the locking nuts. Check that the balljoints are seated correctly In their sockets, and count the exposed threads on the ends of the track-rods. If the number of threads exposed is not the same on both sides, then the adjustment has not been made equally, and problems will be encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer be horizontal when the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 15 When the track-rod lengths are the same, lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check the toe setting; readjust if necessary. When the setting is correct, tighten the locking nuts. Ensure that the steering gear rubber gaiters are seated correctly and are not twisted or strained, then secure them In position with new retaining clips.
10

10*1
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Bonnet • removal and refitting 11 Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting 12 Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting 13 Door - removal and refitting 15 Door handle and lock components • removal and refitting 16 Door inner trim panel • removal and refitting 14 Electric window components • removal and refitting 18 Exterior mirror components - removal and refitting 17 Facia - removal and refitting 19 Front bumper • removal and refitting 6
General Information 1 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 2 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 3 Major body damage - repair 5 Minor body damage - repair 4 Rear bumper - removal and refitting 7 Seats • removal and refitting 20 Tailgate - removal and refitting 8 Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting 10 Tailgate strut - removal and refitting 9
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for
novice with littie experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable ^ for beginner with ^
some
experience

Fairty difficult,
^
suitable
fcr competent
DIY
mechanic ^
Difficult,
suitable (or
^ experienced DIY »R mechanic ^

Very difficult,
^
suitable
for
expert CHY
or professional ^
Specifications
! Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft Bonnet-to-hinge botts 8 6 Door hinge-to-body bolts 35 26
1 Genera! information
The bodyshell is composed of pressed-steel sections which are welded together, although some use of structural adhesives is made. In addition, the front wings are bolted i on. ' The bonnet, door and some other panels I vulnerable to corrosion are fabricated from zinc-coated metal. A coating of anti-chip primer, applied prior to paint spraying I provides further protection. Extensive use is made of plastic materials. ' mainly In the Interior, but also in exterior components. The outer sections of the front l and rear bumpers are injection-moulded from
a
synthetic material which is very strong, and yet light. Plastic components such as wheel | arch liners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to improve Ihe body's resistance to I corrosion.
2 Maintenance - ^ bodywork and underframe ||
The general condition of a vehicle's bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud. which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically, and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of Ihe vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes is allowed to become thick In certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are

Bodywork and fittings
11
*3
several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is Insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs -filling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking, those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board • measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too slowly. U3ing the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the surface. As soon as a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste - if you carry on too long, the paste will become sticky and begin lo 'pick-up' on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute Intervals, until the level of the filler is just proud of the surrounding bodywork. Once the filler has hardened, the excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40-grade production paper, and finishing with a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block • otherwise the surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparled to the filler at the final stage. At this stage, the dent should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely feathered' edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the whole area with a light coat of primer - this will show up any imperfections In the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water, and allow to dry fully.
flflfl^gl tf txxfystopper is used, it can WiMiiBi be mixed with cellulose Hi NT thinners to form a really thin 1 1 paste which is Ideal for filling small holes.
The repair area Is now ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but If you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor In the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape, and several thicknesses of newspaper, for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin. or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint, rather than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the pnmer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying at one edge of the repair area, and then, using a side-to-side motion, work until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish.
Plastic components With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major body panels), rectification of more serious damage to such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr In a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod Into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed, and the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less senous nature (abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting. If the owner is renewing a complete component himself, or If he has repaired it with epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time, the use of a universal paint was not possible, owing to the complex range of plastics encountered In body component applications. Standard paints, generally speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-pnmer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat. Full Instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the method of use is to first apply the pre-pnmer to the component concerned, and allow It to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied, and left to dry for about an hour before finally applying the special-coloured top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured component, where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that standard paint does not normally possess.
5 Major body damage -repair
Where serious damage has occurred, or large areas need renewal due to neglect, it means that complete new panels will need welding-in, and this is best left to professionals. If the damage is due to Impact, it will also be necessary to check completely the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can only be carried out accurately by a Fiat dealer using special jigs. If the alignment of the bodyshell is not corrected, the car's handling may be seriously affected. In addition, excessive stress may be Imposed on the steering, suspension, tyres or transmission, causing abnormal wear or even complete failure.

10*1
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Contents
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal 4 Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal 5 Electrical fault finding - general information 2 Exterior light units - removal and refitting 6 Fuses and relays - general Information 3 General information and precautions 1 Headlight beam alignment • general Information 6 Horn • removal and refitting 9 Instrument panel - removal and refitting 7 Loudspeakers - removal and refitting 10
Degrees of difficulty
Radio aerial - removal and refitting 11 Radio/cassette player • removal and refitting 12 Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting 13 Switches - removal end refitting 14 Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting 15 Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting 17 Windscreen/tailgate washer system components • removal and refitting 16 Wiper arm • removal and refitting 18

Easy,
statable for ^
novice with liffle
|| experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable for beginner with ^ some experience ^
Fabtycffficiit,
suitable
for competent ^
DIY
mechanic ^

Difficult, suitable for
^ experienced DIY JR mechanic

Very difficult,
A,
suitable
for
expert DIY
Sj or professional ^
Specifications
Bulb ratings Watts Headlights 60/55 Front long range driving light 55 Front fogllght 55 Front direction Indicator light 21 Front sidelight 5 Front direction indicator repeater light 5 Stop light 21 Tall light 5 Rear direction indicator light 21 Reversing light 21 near fogllght 21 Hear number plate light 5 Courtesy light 10 Map reading light 5
1 Genera! information and precautions

A


Warning: fie/Ore carrying out any work on the electrical system, read through the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, and in Chapter 8. The electrical system is of 12-volt negative earth type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid type battery, which is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. It should be noted that, prior to working on any component In the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be disconnected, to prevent the possibility of electrical short-circuits and/or fires. Caution: Before proceeding, refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual for further information.
2 Electrical fault finding-general information
Note: Refer to the precautions given In Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. The following tests relate to testing ot the main electrical circuits, and should not be used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as antHock braking systems), particularly where an electronic con fro/ module is used.
General 1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component, and the wiring and connectors which link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help to pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit, wiring diagrams are Included at the end of this manual. 2 Before attempting to diagnose an electrical fault, first study the appropriate wiring diagram, to obtain a more complete understanding of the components included In the particular circuit concerned. The possible sources of a fault can be narrowed down by noting whether other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fait at one time, the problem Is likely to be related to a shared fuse or earth connection.

12*2 Body electrical systems
3 Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a faulty earth connection, a blown fuse, a melted lusible link, or a fautty relay {refer to Section 3 for details of testing relays). Visually inspect the condition of all (uses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before testing the components. Use the wiring diagrams lo determine which terminal connections will need to be checked, in order to pinpoint the trouble-spot. 4 The basic tools required for electrical fault-finding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of lest leads can also be used for certain tests}; a self-powered test light (sometimes known as a continuity tester); an ohmmeter (to measure resistance): a battery and set of tesi leads: and a lumper wire, preferably with u circuit breaker or fuse incorporated, which can be used to bypass susoect wires or electrical components. Before attempting to locate a problem with tost instruments, use the wiring diagram to determine where to make the connections. 5 To find the source of an intermittent wiring fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection, or damaged wiring Insulation), a wiggle test can be performed on the wiring. This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to see if tha fault occurs as the wiring Is moved. It should be possible to narrow down the source of the fault to a particular section of wiring. This method of testing can be used in conjunction with any of the tests descnbed in the following sub-Sections. 6 Apart from problems due to poor connections, two basic types of fault can occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or short-circuit. 7 Open-circuit faults are caused by a break somewhere in the circuit, which prevents current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will prevent a component from working, but will not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow 8 Short-circuit faults are caused by a shod somewhere in the circuit, which allows Die current flowing In the circuit to escape along an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-circuit faults are normally caused by a breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a feed wire to touch either another wire, or an earthed component such as the bodysheli. A short-circuit fault will normally cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
Finding an open-circuit 9 To check for an opon-circuit, connect one lead of a circuit tester or voltmoter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good earth. 10 Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the batter/ or luse. 11 Switch on the circuit, bearing In mind that some circuits are live only when tho ignition switch is moved to a particular position. 12 If voltage is present (Indicated either by
3.2 Main fuse box, located on the driver's side of the facie the toster bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that tho section of Ihe circuit between the relevant connector and the battery is problem-free. 13 Continue to check the remainder ot the circuit in the same fashion. 14 When a point is reached at which no voltage Is present, the problem must lie between that point and the previous test point with voltage. Most problems can be traced to a broken, corroded or loose connection.
Finding a short-circuit 15 To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the components which draw current from a circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc). 16 Remove the relevant luse Irom the circuit, and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the luse connections. 17 Switch on the circuit, beanng in mind that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position. 18 If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that there Is a short-circuit. 19 If no voltage is present, but the fuse still blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates an internal fault in the load(s).
Finding an earth fault 20 The battery negative terminal Is connected to 'earth' - the metal of the engine/transmission and the car body - and
I
IK
J 3.3 To gain access to the fuses, remove the screw and pull the stowage bin away from the facia
most systems are wired so that they only receive a positive feed, the current returning via the metal of Ihe car body. This means that the component mounting and the body form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can therefore cause a range of electrical faults, ranging from total failure ot a circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular, lights may shine dimly (especially when another circuit sharing the same earth port In operation), motors (eg wiper motors v Ihe radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly, and Ihe operation of one circuit may have an apparently-unrelated effect on another. Ncie that on many vehicles, earth straps axe uses between certain components, such as the engine/transmission and the body, usually whore there is no metal-to-metal contact between components, due to flexible rubber mountings, etc. 21 To check whether a component $ properly earthed, disconnect Ihe battery, and connect one lead of an ohmmeter to a kwwi good earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire or earth connection being tested. Tha resistance reading should be zero; if not. check the connection as follows. 22 If an earth connection Is thought to be faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean pack to bare metal both the bodysheli and ite wire terminal or the component earth connection mating surface. Be careful to remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then use a knife to trim away any palm, so thai a clean metal-to-metal joint Is mads. On reassemoly, tighten the joint fasteners securely: if a wire terminal Is being refitted, use serrated washers between tho terminal and the bodysheli. to ensure a clean and secure connection. When the connection is remade, prevent the onset ot corrosion in the future by applying a coat of petroleum idly
or
stlicone-based grease, or by spraying on (a: regular intervals} a proprietary ignition eoater, or a water-aispersant lubneant.
3 Fuses and relays -general information
Fuses 1 Fuses are designod to break a circuit when a predetermined current is reached, in order to protect the components and wiring wttioh could be damaged by excessive current How. Any excessive current flow will be due to a fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (see Section 2). 2 The main fuses are located in the fusefcox on the driver's side of the facia (see illustration). 3 To gain access to the fuses, remove tne screw and pull the stowage bin moulding away from the facia (see illustration). 4 Additional fuses and circuit-breakers are located In the engine compartment, and in an

Body electrical systems 12*3
3.4 The auxiliary fusebox, located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel auxiliary fusebox, which is located inside the glovebox behind a drop-down panel (see Illustration). 5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire (see illustration). 6 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. 7 Using the plastic tool clipped to the main fusebox lid, pull the fuse from its location. 8 Spare fuses are provided in the main fusebox. 9 Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating (fuse ratings are specified on the inside of the fusebox cover flap). Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil; more serious damage, or even fire, could result. 10 Note that the fuses are colour-coded as follows. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings used and the circuits protected. Colour Rating Orange 5A Red 10A Blue 15A Yellow 20A Clear or White 25A Green 30A 11 The radio/cassette player fuse is located In the rear of the unit, and can be accessed after removing the radio/cassette player -refer to Section 12for greater detail.
Relays 12 A relay is an electncally-operated switch, which Is used for the following reasons: 4 A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, therefore allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)
A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch. c) A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay. 13 The main and optional equipment relays are located in the main and auxiliary toseboxes (see Fuses). A number of additional relays may be fitted, depending on model and specification. These are generally mounted
3.5 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire adjacent lo the component being controlled; e.g. the radiator cooling fan relay(s) are mounted on a bracket next the cooling fan itself. 14 The direction Indicator/hazard warning flasher unit is mounted on the underside of the steering column slalk switch unit. It can be accessed by removing the steering column lower shroud panel (see illustration). 15 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energised, if this is Ihe case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions. 16 To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.
4 Buibs (exterior lights) -renewal
General 1 Whenever a bulb is renewed, note the following points:
3.14 Removing the direction indlcator/ha2ard warning flasher unit
a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. If in doubt, disconnect the battery negative lead before starting work. b) Remember that, if the circuit has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) A/ways check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metal-to-metal contact between the bulb and its live contacts) and earth. Clean off
any
corrosion or dirt before fitting a nevt bulb. d) Wherever bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts) bear firmly against the bulb contact. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating (see Specifications), and that it is completely clean before fitting it; this applies particularly to headlight/foglight bulbs (see following
0 Pay attention to the orientation when fitting multi-filament bulbs (e.g. combined tail/brake light bulbs) • incorrect fitting will cause the filaments to illuminate In the wrong sequence.
Headlight 2 Open the bonnet. Ensure that the headlights are turned off at the stalk switch. Models with single reflector 3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb (see illustration). 4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit (see Illustration).
4.3 Pull the wiring plug from the rear of the bulb 4.4 Pull the rubber boot from the rear of the headlight unit