time FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Owner's Guide

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures 2C*11

r
<3^
9.46a The locating dowel in the cylinder block 43 It is possible for the ptston crowns to stnke and damage the valve heads, if the camshaft is rotated v/ith the timing belt removed and the crankshaft set to TDC. For this reason, the crankshaft must be set to a position other than TDC on No t cylinder before the cylinder head is refitted. Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt to turn the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation, until all four pistons are positioned Halfway down their bores, v/ith No 1 piston on lis upstroke - approximately 90° before TDC.
Refitting 44 If the manifolds are being refitted before refitting the cylinder head proceed as follows, otherwise fit the manifolds later when the head is refitted. Ensure thai the inlet and exhaust manifold mating surfaces are completely clean, then locale the new gasket on the studs. 45 Locate the inlet and exhaust manifolds together with the turbocharger, where applicable, on the studs. Refit the nuts and washers and tighten to the specified torque.
sequence
f^/f
9.52b Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 and Stage 2 settings using a torque wrench
on the block 46 Lay the new head gasket on the cylinder block engaging it with the locating dowel. The word ALTO must be uppermost (see illustrations). 47 As a means of locating Ihe cylinder head accurately, cut the heads from two of the old cylinder head bolts. Cut a slot, big enough for a screwdriver blade, in the end of each bolt. These can be used as alignment dowels to assist in cylinder head refitting, however If the head is being refitted without the manifolds it is not necessary to take this action. 48 With the help of an assistant, place the cylinder head assembly centrally on the cylinder block ensuring thai the locating dowels engage with Ihe holes in the cylinder head. Check that the head gasket Is correctly seatod before allowing the full weight of the cylinder head to rest on it. 49 Where necessary, unscrew the home-made alignment dowels, using a flat bladed screwdriver. 50 The oyllnder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts in engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. 51 Carefully enter each bolt with washer into its relevant hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by hand only, until finger-tight. 52 Working progressively and In the sequence shown, first tighten the cylinder head bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a torque wrench and suitable socket (see illustrations). Go round again, in the sequence shown, and tighten the bolls to the Stage 2 torque setting. 53 Once all the bolts have been tightened to their Stage 2 setting, working again in the
bolts to the Stage 3 and Stage 4 settings
9.46c The word ALTO must be uppermost
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts through the specified Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar (see illustration). It Is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used during this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use white paint to make alignment marks between the bolt head and cylinder head prior to tightening; the marks can then be used to check tho bolt has been rotated through the correct angle during tightening. Repeat for the Stage 4 setting. 54 Refit the cylinder head front retaining bolts and tighten lo the specified torque. 55 Refit the camshaft cover together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts progressively to the specified torque. 56 The remaining procedure is a reversal of the removal procedure noting the following points. a) Tighten all nut and bolts to the specified torque where given. b) When refitting the metal coolant pipe to the coolant pump, use a new O-ring (see illustration). cj Refit the timing belt with reference to Section 4. d) Use a new exhaust front pipe gasket. e) Refit the auxiliary dhvebeltfs) as described in Chapter 1B. f) Refer to Chapter 4C when refitting the
air
cleaner and air duct. g) Refill the cooling system and fill the engine with new oil with reference to Chapter 1B. 57 Refer to Chapter 20 when starting the engine for the first time.
9.56 Use a new O-ring on the coolant pipe before refitting it to the pump

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1 General information
Included In (his Part of Chapter 2 are details of removing the engine/transmission from the car and general overhaul procedures for tho cylinder head, cylinder block/crankca9e and all other engine internal components. The information given ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal, inspection, renovation and refitting of engine Internal components. After Section 5, all instructions are based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the car. For Information concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the removal and refitting of those external components necessary for full overhaul, refer to Part A, 8 or C of this Chapter (as applicable) and to Section 5. Ignore any preliminary dismantling operations described in Part A. B or C that are no longer relevant onca the engine has been removed from ihe car.
2 Engine overhaul -general information
1 It Is not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of lectors must be considered. 2 High mileage Is not necessarily an Indication that an overhaul Is needed, while low mileage does not preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing Is probably the most important consideration. An engine which has had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, should give many thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early In its life. 3 Excessive oil consumption Is an Indication that piston rings, vaivo seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn Perform a compression test, as described In Parts A or B (petrol engines) or C (diesel engines) of this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of the problem. 4 Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted In place of the oil pressure switch. If it Is extremely low. the main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil pump, are probably worn out. 5 Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear noise, and high fuel consumption may also point to Ihe need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a complete service does not remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution. 6 An engine overhaul involves restoring ell Internal parts to the specification of a new engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are rebored (where applicable), the pistons and the piston rings are renewed. New main and big-end bearings are generally fitted; If necessary, the crankshaft may be reground. to restore the journals. 7 The valves are also servrced as well, since they are usually In less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be overhauled as well. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling system components such as the hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be renewed when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or leaking. A/so. it Is a good Idea to renew the ofI pump whenever the engine i$ overhauled.
8 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through tho entire procedure, to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult If you follow carefully all of the instructions, have the necessary tools and equipment, and pay close attention to all specifications. It can, however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially If pans must be taken to an engineering wo'kd for repair or reconditioning.
9 Check on the availability of parts and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand lools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required (or Inspecting parts to determine if they must be renewed. Often the engineering works will handle the inspection of parts and offer advice concerning reconditioning and renewal, Note: Always wait unt'l the engine has been completely dismantled, and until all components (especially the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an engineering works. The condition of these components will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine, or to buy a reconditioned unit. Do not. fh ere tore, purchase parts or have overhaul work done on other components until they have been thoroughly Inspected. As a general rule, time is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
10 As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine, everything must be assembled wilh care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.
3 Engine and transmission removal -methods
and
precautions
1 If you have decided that the engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken. 2 Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the car, will be needed. If a workshop or garage Is not available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface Is required. 3 Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure wilt help keep tools clean and organised. 4 An engine hoist or A-frame will also be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated In excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission, Safety Ib of primary Importance, considering the potential hazards involved in lifting the engine/transmission out of the car. 5 If this is Ihe first time you have removed
an
engine, an assistant Bhould Ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when lifting the engine out of Ihe vehicle. 6 Plan the operation ahead of time. Before starting work, arrange for the hire of or obtain all of the tools and equipment you will need. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and Installation safely and wilh relative ease On addition to an engine hoist) Is as follows: a heavy duly trolley jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets as described in the reference section of this manual, wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping up spitted oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired, make sure that you arrange for it In advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.
7 Plan for the car to be out of use for quite a while. An engineering works will be required to perform some of the work which the do-it-yourselfer cannot accomplish without special equipment. These places often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consul! them before removing the engine, in order to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work, 9 Always be extremely careful when removing and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. Plan ahead and take your time, and a job of this nature, although major, can be accomplished successfully.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).

Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
failure, (he cause must be corrected (where applicable) before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase, Ihe main bearing caps, the connecting rods and the connecting rod big-end bearing caps. Lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers while checking it. 4 Din and other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or It may pass through fillers or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left In engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded In the soft bearing material, and are easily recognised. Large particles will not embed in the bearing, and will score or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure Is to clean all parts thoroughly, and keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication
breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which can be the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil-starve a bearing, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing materiel is wiped or extruded from the steel backing of Ihe bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring ihe engine) puts very high loads on bearings, tending to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the beanngs to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from Ihe steel backing. 7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil Is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 8 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. 9 Do not touch any shell's bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly: there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on ft. 10 As mentioned at the beginning of this Section, the bearing shells should be renewed as a matter of course during engine overhaul; to do otherwise is false economy.
Selection 11 Main and big-end bearings are available in standard sizes and a range of undersizes to suit reground crankshafts • refer to the Specifications for details. The engine reconditioner will select the correct bearing shells for a machined crankshaft. 12 The running clearances can be checked when the crankshaft is refitted with its new bearings.
11 Engine overhaul -reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all new parts have been obtained, and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiariss yourself with the work Involved, and to ensure that ail items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, thread-locking compound will be needed. A tube of sealant will also be required for the joint faces that are fitted without gaskets.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order: a) Crankshaft (Section 12). b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies (Section 7). c) Oil pump (see Part A, B or C - as applicable). d) Sump (see Pan A, BorC-as applicable). e) Flywheel/driveplate (see Part A, B or C • as applicable). 1) Cylinder head (see Part A B or C - as applicable). g) Coolant pump (see Chapter
3)
h) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets, and timing belt (See Part A, B or C- as applicable). I) Engine external components, 3 At this stage, ail engine components should be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults repaired. The components should be laid out on a completely clean work surface.
12 Crankshaft- % refitting and main bearing S running clearance check ^
Crankshaft - initial refitting 1 Crankshaft refitting Is the first stage ol engine reassembly following overhaul. At this point, it is assumed that the crankshaft, cylinder block/crankcase and beanngs have been cleaned, inspected and reconditioned or renewed. 2 Place the cylinder block on a clean, level work surface, with the crankcase facing upwards. Where necessary, unbolt the bearing caps and lay them out in order to ensure correct reassembly. If they are still in place, remove the bearing shells from the caps and the crankcase and wipe out the inner surfaces wilh a clean rag - they musl be kept spotlessly clean. 3 Clean the rear surface of the new bearing shells with a rag and fit ihem on Ihe bearing saddles. Ensure that the orientation lugs on the shells engage with the recesses in the saddles and lhat the oil holes are correctly aligned. Do not hammer or otherwise force the bearing shells into place. It Is critically important that the surfaces of the bearings ore kept free from damage and contamination. 4 Give the newly fitted bearing shells and the crankshaft journals a final clean with a rag. Check that the oil holes In the crankshaft are free from dirt, as any left here will become embedded In the new bearings when Ihe engine is first started. 5 Carefully lay the crankshaft In the crankcase, taking care not to dislodge the bearing shells (see illustration}.
Main bearing running clearance check 8 When Ihe crankshaft and bearings are refitted, a clearance must exist between them

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1 General information and precautions
Genera/ Information The engine cooling/cabin heating system is ol pressurised type, comprising a coolant pump driven by the camshaft timing belt (petrol engine models) or auxiliary drlvebelt (diesel engine models), a crossllow radiator, a coolant expansion tank, an electric cooling fan, a thermostat, heater matrix, and all associated hoses and switches. The system functions as follows: Ihe coolant pump circulates cold water around the cylinder block and head passages, and through the Inlet manifold, heater matrix and throttle body to the thermostat housing. When the engine Is cold, the thermostat remains closed and prevents coolant from circulating through the radiator. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator. As the coolant circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when the car is in forward motion. The airllow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan. when necessary, As the temperature of the coolant in the radiator drops, it flows to the bottom of the radiator by convection, and passes out through the bottom hose to the coolant pump - the cycle is then repeatod, When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of It is displaced into the expansion tank. Coolant collects In the tank, and ts returned to Ihe radiator when the system cools. On petrol engine models, the expansion tank is integrated into the side of the radiator. On diesel engine models, and certain petrol engine models with air conditioning, the tank is a separate unit, mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment. On turbo diesel engine models, the coolant is also passed through a supplementary engine oil cooler, to assist In controlling the engine lubricant temperature. Tho electric cooling fan mounted in front of the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the swilch/sensor actuates the tan lo provide additional airflow through the radiator, The switch cuts the electrical supply to the Ion when the coolant temperature has dropped below a preset threshold (see Specifications).
Precautions

A


Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap, or to disturb any part of the cooling system, whlio the engine is hot, as then is a high risk of scalding, tf the expansion tank pressure cap must be removed before the
engine and radiator have fulty cooled (even though this is not recommended?, the pressure in the cooling system must first be relieved. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the pressuro cap until a hissing sound Is heard. When the hissing stops, indicating that the pressure has reduced, slowly unscrew the pressure cap until it can be removed; If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep your face well away from the pressure cap opening, and protect your hands.

A


Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come into contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or In a puddle In the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal tf ingested.

A


Warning: If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan may start rotating even if the engine and ignition are switched off. Be careful to keep your hands, hair, and any loose clothing well clear when working In the engine compartment.
2 Cooling system hoses - f&> disconnection and renewal ^
1 The number, routing and pattern of hoses will vary according to model, but the same basic procedure applies. Before commencing work, make sure that the new hoses are to hand, along wilh new hose clips if needed, it is good practice to renew the hose clips at the same time as the hoses. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 1A or 18, saving the coolant if it is fit for re-use. Apply a little penetrating oil onto the hose clips if they are corroded. 3 Release the hose clips from the hose concerned. Three types of clip are used; worm-drive. spring and 'sardine-can'. The worm-drive clip is released by turning its screw anti-clockwise. The spring clip Is released by squeezing Its tags together with pliers, at the same time working the cbp away from the hose stub. The sardine-can clips are not re-usable, and are best cut off with snips or side cutters. 4 Unclip any wires, cables or other hoses which may be attached to the hose being removed. Make notes for reference when reassembling If necessary. 5 Release the hose from its stubs with a twisting motion. Be careful not to damage the stubs on deltcate components such as the radiator, or thermostat housings. If the hose Is stuck fast, the best course is often to cut it off using a sharp knife, but again be careful not to damage the stubs.
6 Before fitting the new hose, smear the stubs with washing-up liquid or a suitable rubber lubricant to aid fitting. Do not use oil or grease, which may attack the rubber. 7 Fit the hose clips over the ends of the hose, then fit the hose over its stubs. Work the hose Into position. When satisfied, locate and tighten the hose dips. 6 Refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. Run the engine, and chock that there are no leaks. 9 Recheck the tightness of Ihe hose clips on any new hoses after a few hundred miles. 10 Top-up the coolant level if necessary.
3 Radiator -
removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal Note: If leakage is the reason for removing
the
radiator, bear In mind that minor leaks can often be cured using proprietary radiator sealing compound, with the radiator in situ. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray. 2 Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 1B. 3 On 1242 cc (16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as desenbed In Chapter 4B, 4 Slacken the clips and disconnect Ihe (op and bottom coolant hoses from the radiator. In addition on diesel engine models, and petrol engine models with a remotely-sited expansion tank, disconnect the expansion tank coolant hose from the right hand side ol the radiator (see Illustrations), 5 Unscrew the fixings and lift the plastic trim panel from above the front bumper Unscrew the bolt(s) securing tho radiator to the upper body panel (see Illustration). Note that the radiator and cooling fan assembly share the same upper mounting bolt. 6 Unbolt the cooling fan(e) and shroud assembly from Ihe rear ot the radiator, as described in Section 5.
3.4a Slacken the clip and disconnect the radiator bottom hose

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Testing 7 A rough test of the thermostat may be made by suspending it with a piece of siring in a container full of water. Heat tho water to bring it to the boii and observe the movement of the vaive shaft through the inlet port (see illustrations). 6 The thermostat valve must be fully open, by the time the water boils. If not, renew the complete IhermOstat/housIng assembly. 9 If a thermometer is available, the precise opening temperature of the thermostat may be determined; compare with the figures given in the Specifications. The opening temperature Is also marked on the thermostat housing. 10 Note that a thermostat which falls to close completely as ihe water cools must also be renewed.
Refitting 11 Ensure that the cylinder head and thermostat housing mating surfaces are
completely clean and free from ail traces of Ihe old gasket material. 12 Lay a new gasket In position on the cylinder head, then fit the thermostat housing and Insert retaining bolts, tightening them securely.
Caution: Do not over-tlghten tho retaining bolts, as tho alloy casting could easily be damaged 13 Where applicable, transfer the cooling fan switch and coolant temperature sensor to the new housing. 14 Refit the coolant hose(s) to the ports on the thermostat housing and lighten the clips securely. 15 Where applicable, refit the harness/hose support bracket to the thermostat housing and tighten the bolts securely. Also refit the air cleaner and Inlet ducts as described in Chapter 4B 15 Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B.
5 Electric cooling fan(s) -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 Detailed fault diagnosis should be camw out by a Rat dealer using dedicated tesl equipment, but basic diagnosis can be car&c out as follows. 2 If the fan does not appear to work, run if* engine until normal operating temperature s reached, Ihen allow It to idle. The fan shouldcti In within a few minutes (before lite temperalure gauge needle enters the red section), il nol. switch off the engine and disconnect tfie cooling fan motor wiring connector. 3 The motor can be tested by disconnecting it from the wiring loom, and connecting a 12? volt supply directly to It. The motor should operate - if not. the motor, or the motor wiring. Is faulty.
frotf heater from cylinder head mdotor
4.7b Thermostat operation in the fully closed position (diesel engine)
from neoier Irom cylinder head radiator
4.7c Thermostat operation in the fully open position (diesel engine)

3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly

A


Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
tf In any doubt as to the procedure fo follow on models with air conditioning, consult a Fiat dealer for advice. Note: This is an involved procedure, and It (s recommended fhat the following Section fs read thoroughly before commencing work. Plenty of time should be allowed to compter the operation. During dismantling, make notes on the routing of all wiring and cables, and the locations of all fixings, to aid reassembly. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Set the heater control to HOT. then drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18. 3 Working in the engine bay, slacken the clips and dotach the healer unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead (see illustration) Recover the rubber grommets. 4 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the entire facia assembly from the vehicle bulkhead. Rest the assembly on the front seats. 5 At this stage, access to the air l nlet/dlstrl but Ion/blending control cables is possible. These can be easily disconnected from their respective control levers and renewed If required. 6 Working from the engine bay. remove the protective plastic caps to expose the heater assembty mounting studs and remove the nuts 7 Label the electrical connections to 1hi» heater assembly, to aid correct refitting later and then unplug them at the connectors 8 Slacken and remove the nuts and lift the healer assembly off its mounting studs. Refitting 9 To refit the assembly, reverse the steps described for removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Make sure that all wiring and cables are muted as noted during dismantling. b) Make sure that dl air ducts are securely reconnected. c) Refit the facia components with reference to Chapter 11. dl On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A or 18.
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
motor c) Ensure that all hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, that their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described In Section 4.
Fuel injector Note: If a faulty Injector Is suspected, before condemning the Injector, it is worth vying the effect of one of the proprietary Injector cleaning treatments. Removal 8 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described In Section 2. 9 Disconnect the wiring then unscrew the mounting screws and remove Ihe Injector from the throttle body. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel pressure regulator
Removal 11 Remove Ihe air cleaner and air duel as described In Section 2. 12 Using a marker pen. make alignment marks between the regulator cover end the throttle body, then undo the four retaining
screws. As the screws are loosened, place a rag over the cover to catch any fuel spray which may be released. 13 Lift off the cover, then remove the spring and withdraw the diaphragm, noting Its correct fitted orientation. Remove all traces of dirt, and examine the diaphragm for signs of splitting. If damage Is found, it will be necessary to renew the complete upper throttle body assembly. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal ensuring that the diaphragm and cover are fitted the correct way round, and that the retaining screws are securely tightened,
Idle control stepper motor
Removal 15 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), then remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 16 Using a crosshead screwdriver, unscrew the mounting screws and remove the stepper motor from the throttle body. Recover the gaskei (see illustration). 17 Clean the unit and check for damage and wear. Refitting 18 When refitting the unit use a new gasket and make sure that the plunger is inserted correctly using the following procedure. Insert the unit and refit the mounting screws loosely. Reconnect the wiring then switch on the ignition several times so that the unit centralises itself. Finally fully tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. Note: The mounting screws are covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed 19 Leave the battery negative terminal disconnected for about 20 minutes - the injection/ignition ECU will position the Idle control stepper motor correctly the first time the engine is started. Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
Throttle potentiometer
Removal 20 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 21 Disconnect the wiring from the throttle potentiometer. 22 Using an Allen key unscrew the mounting screws then withdraw the unit from the throttle body (see Illustration). Note: The mounting screws ere covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed. Refitting 23 When refitting the unit make sure that the pin Is correctly engaged, and tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. 24 If a Rat test Instrument is available, the
operation of the throttle potentiometer can be checked at this stage. Before connecting the wiring first turn Ihe ignition key to position MAR and wait a few seconds, then return the key to the STOP position, Reconnect the wiring and connect the test instrument. Turn the Ignition key to the MAR position and cancel the error that will appear. The throttle position Indicated should be between 0° and 4°. If greater than this, check thai the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted however If the correct reading cannot be obtained renew the unit.
Inlet air temperature sensor
Removal 25 Remove the throtlle body assembly as described earlier In this Section. 28 Extract the plastic pins and remove the press-fit cover from the top of the throttle body. 27 Invert the cover then unscrew the mounting screws and remove the Inlet air temperature sensor from the cover. Refitting 28 Refining Is a reversal of removal.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
Removal 29 The manifold absolute pressure sensor is located on the left-hand side of the bulkhead. 30 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the sensor from the bulkhead, Disconnect the wiring and vacuum pipe. Refitting 31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check the condition of the vacuum pipe and renew it if necessary.
Coolant temperature sensor
Removal 32 The coolant temperature sensor Is located on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold. Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A before removing it. 33 Disconnect the wiring. 34 Unscrew the sensor and remove It from the Inlet manifold. If using a socket take care not to damage Ihe wiring connector on the sensor. Refitting 35 Refitting Is a reversal of removal bui tighten Ihe sensor to the specified torque. Do not exceed the specified torque otherwise the unit may be damaged.
Crankshaft TDC sensor
Removal 36 The crankshaft TDC sensor Is located on the front side of the crankshaft pulley. Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car Bnd support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). Remove 5.22 Throttle potentiometer mounting screws

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
1 The luel system referred to In this Section is defined as the tank-mounted fuel pump, the fuel litter, the throttle body and pressure regulator components, and the metal pipes and flexible hoses of the fuel lines between these components. All ihese contain fuel which will be under pressure while the engine Is running and/or while tha Ignition is switched on. The pressure will remain for some time after tho ignition has been switched off, and must be relieved before any of these components are disturbed (or servicing work. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/sconnecf/ngr the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 3 Place a container beneath the relevant connection/union to be disconnected, and have a large rag ready to soak up any escaping fuel not being caught by the container. 4 Slowly loosen the connection or union nut (as applicable) to avoid a sudden release of pressure, and wrap tho rag around the connection to catch any fuel spray which may be expelled. Once the pressure is released, disconnect the fuel line, and Insert plugs to minimise fuel loss and prevent the entry of dirt Into the fuel system.
9 Inlet manifold -removal and refitting ^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section 1 before proceeding.
Removal 1 Remove the throttle body assembly as described in Section 5. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A. 3 Disconnect the winng connector from the coolanl temperature sensor (situated on the left-hand sidB of the manifold). 4 Undo the bolt securing the accelerator cable mounting bracket to the manifold, and position it clear of the manifold. 5 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect tha coolant hose from the rear of the manifold. 6 Disconnect the brake vacuum hose. 7 Undo the seven manifold retaining nuts and
10.2 The diagnostic connector la located behind the ECU bolts, and remove (he manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard It; a new one should be used on refitting.
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces are clean and dry, and fit a nev/ manifold gasket. Refit the manifold and securely tighten Its retaining nuts. b) Ensure that all relevant hoses are reconnected fo their original positions and are securely held (where necessary) by the retaining clips. c) Refit the throttle body assembly with reference to Section S. d) On completion, refill the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A.
correctly adjusted, and that the engine breather hoses are clear and undamaged. 2 If these checks fall to reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing. A wiring block connector Is Incorporated In the engine management circuit, into which a special electronic diagnostic tester can be plugged; the connector is situated behind the ECU (see Illustration). The tester will locate the fault quickly and simply, alleviating the need to test all the system components Individually, which is a time-consuming operation that carries a high risk of damaging the ECU.
Adjustments 3 As mentioned above, the idle speed and mixture adjustment are all monitored and controlled by the ECU, and are not adjustable Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and ihe idle speed. However, If thes* are found lo be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Flat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
11 Unleaded petrol -general Information and usage
10 Fuel injection system - & testing and adjustment S
Testing 1 If a fault appears in the fuel injection system, first ensure that all the system winng connectors are securely connected and free of corrosion. Then ensure that the fault Is not due to poor maintenance; ie, check that the air cleanor fitter element is clean, the spark plugs are In good condition and correctly gapped, that tho valve clearances are
Note: The information given in this Chapter
is
correct at the time of writing. If updated Information is thought to be required, check with a Fiat dealer. If travelling abroad, consult one of the motonng organisations (or a similar authority) for advice on the fuel available. 1 All petrol models are fitted with a catalytic converter and must be run on unleaded fuel only - the fuel recommended by Flat is given In the Specifications of this Chapter. Under no circumstances should leaded fuei (UK 4-slar) be used, as this may damage the converter. 2 Super unleaded petrol (98 octane) can also be used in all models if wished, though there is no advantage in doing so.

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
17 Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttle cam opens luily and returns smoothly to its stop. If necessary, reposition the spring clip In the next outer cable groove and recheck the throttle operation. 18 Refit the remainder of the disturbed components.
5 Engine management
system
^ components
(1242
cc, 8-vatve § engines) -
removal and refitting
^
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section T
before
proceeding.
Throttle body assembly
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct as described in Section 2. 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the throttle potentiometer, the idle control stepper motor and the inlet air temperature sensor. 3 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam and free the outer cable from its retaining bracket. Position the cable clear of the throttle body. 4 Unclip and disconnect the EVAP purge valve hose, and Ihe MAP sensor hose from the rear of the throttle body then, where applicable, disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose from the front of the throttle body. 5 Slacken and remove the four bolts securing the throttle body assembly to the inlet manifold, then remove the assembly along with its insulating spacer. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure. bearing in mind the following points: 4! Examine the Insulating spacer for signs of damage, and renew If necessary. b) Ensure the throttle body, inlet manifold and insulating spacer mating surfaces are clean and dry, then fit the throttle body and spacer, and securely tighten the retaining bolts. c) Ensure ail hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, /her their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described in Section 4.

Fuel
rail and injectors
Removal 7 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting tho battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Remove the throttle body assembly as described earlier in this Section, however it is only necessary to move the unit to one side for access to the fuel rail and therefore it Is unnecessary to disconnect the accelerator caWe and hoses etc.
9 Depressurise Ihe fuel system as described in Section 9. 10 Loosen the clips or release the quick-release couplings and disconnect the fuel inlet and, on pre-1998 models, outlet hoses from the fuel rail. Note the fitted positions of the hoses to aid refitting later. 11 Unplug the ln}ector wiring harness connectors, labelling them to aid correct refitting later. 12 Unscrew the bolts securing the fuel rail assembly to the Inlet manifold, then carefully pull the Injectors from the Inlet manifold. Remove the assembly from the engine and remove the injector lower O-ring seals. 13 The injectors can be removed Individually from the fuel rail by extracting the relevant metal clip and easing Ihe injector out of the rail. Remove the injector upper O-ring seals (see illustration).
14 On pre-1998 models, if necessary remove the retaining clip and remove the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail. 15 Check the electrical resistance of the injector using a multimeter and compare It with the Specifications. Note: If a faulty Injector is suspected, before condemning the injector, It is worth trying the effect of one of the proprietary injector-cleaning treatments. Refitting 16 Refit the injectors and fuel rail by following the removal procedure, in reverse, noting the following points: a) Renew the injector O-rlng seals, and smear them with a little Vaseline before assembling. Take care when fitting the injectors to the fuel rail and do not press them in further than required to fit the retaining clip otherwise the O-ring seal may be damaged.
1 Fuel rail 2 Fuel pressure regulator 3 Injectors
5.13 Fuel rail and Injector removal 4 Vacuum stub connect/on 5 Fuel inlet hose 6 Fuel return hose
7 Mounting bolts 8 Injector mounting dip 9 Injector mounting dip