CRANKSHAFT SENSOR FIAT PUNTO 1994 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

ia.io Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support}. 4 Remove the nght-hand front wheel. 5 Remove the inner cover from under the right-hand wheeiarch for access to the right-hand side of the engine. 0 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket boll, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the auxiliary drlvebelt(s) can be examined. Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt: check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear Is visible, the relevant belt should be renewed. 7 If the condition of the belt Is satisfactory, check Ihe drivebeit tension as described below.
Renewal
Alternator drivebeit Note: On certain models with power steering but without air conditioning, it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebeit ffrst, as described below. 8 Where fitted, undo the bolts and remove the belt guard from the alternator. 9 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebeit. 10 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sensor from Ihe front of the engine (refer to Chapter 4A. Section 5, if necessary). 11 Remove the drivebeit from the engine. 12 When renewing a drivebeit. ensure that the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the two pulleys then swivel the alternator outwaids to take up any slack in the betL Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Power steering pump drivebeit 13 Slacken the bolts securing the power steering pump to the mounting bracket. 14 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting boit until all the tension is removed from the drivebeit. 15 Undo the bolts and remove the pultey guard from the power steering pump then slip the drivebeit off (he pulleys. 18 Ensuring that the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack in the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below. Air conditioning compressor drivebeit 17 Remove the alternator and power steering pump dnvebelts as described previously. 18 Slacken the bolts securing the compressor to the mounting bracket. 19 Slacken the adjusting bolt locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until alt the tension is removed from the drivebeit, then slip the belt off the pulleys. 20 Ensuring lhat the correct type of drivebeit is used, fit the belt around the pulleys and turn the adjusting bolt to just take up the slack In the belt. Adjust the tension correctly as described below.
15.7 Checking a valve clearance with a feeler blade
Tensioning 21 Correct tensioning of the belt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which Is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor bearings. Note: Fiat recommend use of their special tensioning tool however the fallowing procedure will set the tension correctly. 22 The belt(s) should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys. To adjust the alternator drivebeit, slightly tighten the adjustment bolt then swivel the alternator outwards until tne beft tension Is correct. Fully tighten the adjustment bolt followed by the pivot bolt then refit the rpm sensor. 23 On models with power steering and/or air conditioning, fit the relevant drivebeit over the pulleys then turn the adjusting bolt until the tension is correct. Secure the adjusting bolt by tightening Ihe locknut, then tighten the remaining mounting bolts. Refit any remaining dnvebelts and all the components removed. 24 Refit the inner cover and wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, then reconnect the battery negative terminal,
14 Clutch adjustment check
Refer to Chapter 8. Section 2.
15.11 Using a modified C-spanner and e screwdriver to remove a shim
15 Valve clearance check ^ and adjustment S
Note: The following procedure Is not applicable to 1242 cc,
16-vatve
engines which utilise self-adjusting hydraulic tappets. 1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. Adjustment should only be necessary when the valve gear has become noisy, after engine overhaul, or when trying to trace the cause of power loss. The clearances are checked as follows. The engine must be cold for the check to be accurate. 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the right* hand front of the vehicle and support on an axle stand (see Jacking and vehicle support). Engage 4th gear. The engine can now be rotated by turning the right-hand front road wheel. 3 Remove all spark plugs as described In Section 19. 4 Remove the camshaft cover as described In Chapter 2A. 5 Each valve clearance must be checked when the high point of the cam lobe is pointing directly upward away from the cam follower. 6 Check the clearances In the firing order 1-3-4-2. No
1
cylinder being at the timing bell end of the engine. This will minimise the amount of crankshaft rotation required. 7 Insert the appropriate feeler blade between the heel of the cam and the cam follower shim of the first valve (see illustration). II necessary alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness, which will, of course, represent the valve clearance for this particular valve. 8 Tum the engine, check the second valve clearance and record it. 9 Repeat the operations on all the remaining valves, recording their respective clearances. 10 Remember that the clearance for Inlet and exhaust valves differs • see Specifications. Counting from the timing cover end of the engine, the valve sequence is: tnlet 2-4-5-7 Exhaust 7-3-6-$ 11 Where clearances are incorrect, the particular shim will have to be changed. To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft until the high point of the cam Is pointing directly upward. The cam follower will now have to be depressed so that the shim can be extracted. Special tools are available from your Fiat dealer to do the job, otherwise you will have to make up a forked (ever to locate on the rim of the cam follower. This must allow room for the shim to be prised out by means of the cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim {see illustration). 12 Once the shim is extracted, establish its thickness and change It for a thicker or thinner one to bring the previously recorded

2B*4 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.8 Undo three bolts and romove tho crankshaft pulley from the sprocket
Crankshaft setting toot fabrication 7 To make Ihe crankshafl setting tools, four old spark plugs will be required, together with four lengths of dowel rod. The length of each dowel rod is not critical, bul It must be long enough to protrude about 100 mm above the top of the cylinder head extension when resting on top of a piston located half way down its bore. What is critical, however, is that all four do wo I rods must be exactly the same length. 8 Break off the ceramic upper section of each plug and remove the centre electrode and earth tip. The easiest way to do this is to mount each spark plug in a vice (attar removing the ceramic uppor plug section) and drill a hole down through ihe centre of the plug. The diameter of Ihe drill bit should be the same as Ihe diameter of Ihe dowol rod to be used. When finished you should have four spark plug bodies and four equal length dowel rods which will slide through the centre of the spark plugs.
3 Cylinder compression test
1 When engine performance is down, or it misfiring occurs which cannot be attnbuted to the Ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine's condition. If the lest is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble bofore any other symptoms become apparent.
4.10 Undo the upper timing cover upper retaining bolt, and the rear retaining boll
4.9 Undo the retaining bolt in the centre of the lower timing cover
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operxrtrfjg temperature, the battery must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs muse be removed (Chapter 1A>. The aid of an assistant wilt also be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by discon-necting the LT wiring plugs to the Ignition coils. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No t cylinder spark plug hole • the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide open, and crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the h.ghest reading obtained 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording Ihe pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; any excessive difference indicates Ihe existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on (he first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be tho cause). 6 If the pressure in any cylinder is very low, carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of dean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeal the lest. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between Ihem; the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition LT wiring plug.
4 Timing belt and covers -removal and refitting §
General information 1 The luncUon of the timing belt Is to drive the camshafts and coolant pump. Should the bell slip or creak in service, the valve timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valve contact wiu occur, resulting in serious engine damage. 2 The timing belt should be renewed at the specified Intervals (see Chapter 1A), or earlier If It is contaminated with oil, or if it is at all noisy In operation (a scraping noise due to uneven wear}. 3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is
a
wise precaution to check the condition of the coolam pump at the same time (oheck for signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the need to remove the timing belt again at a later stage, should the coolant pump fail. 4 Before carrying out this procedure, it will be necessary to obtain or fabricate suitable camshaft locking tools and piston positioning tools as described in Section 2. The procedures contained In this Section depict the use of the home-made alternative tools described in Section 2. which were fabricated In the Haynes workshop. If the manufacturers tools are being used instead, the procedures are virtually identical. Oo not attempt to remove the timing bell unless the special totfs or their alternatives are available.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of Ihis manual). 6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described In Chapter 1A. 7 Remove the air cleaner, Inlet air duct and resonator as desenbed In Chapter 4B. 8 Undo the three bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley from the sprocket (see illustration). 9 Undo the retaining bolt In the centre of the lower liming cover (see illustration). 10 Undo tho uppor timing cover upper retaining bolt, and the rear retaining bolt located above the alternator (see illustration). 11 Release the crankshaft TDC sensor wiring from the clip on the upper timing cover, then withdraw the cover slightly and slide Ihe wiring plug and socket from the liming cover slot (see illustrations). 12 Release the TDC sensor wiring from the periphery ol the upper and fower timing covers and remove both covers (see Illustrations). 13 Free the accelerator inner cable from the throttle cam, remove the outer cable spring dip, then pull the outer cable out from its mounting bracket rubber grommet. 14 From the side of the throttle body, disconnect the wiring connectors from the

2B*5 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
4.11a Release the crankshaft TDC sensor wiring from the clip on the upper timing cover... throttle potentiometer and the Idle control stepper motor. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring connector located
in
the inlet manifold below the throttle body,
end
disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 15 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the fuel injector harness and the intake air temperature/pressure sensor, then fcconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and the EVAP purge valve hose. 18 Undo the two bolts securing the plastic mlet manifold upper section to the lower section. Release the spark plug HT lead from the location groove in the manifold upper wctton, then lift the upper section, complete
»ith
throttle body, off the engine. Recover the 0-rngs from the manifold ports. 17 Unscrew the two bolts securing the fuel
4£1a Screw the spark plug bodies of the homo-made piston positioning tools into each spark plug hole ...
4.21b ... place a suitable washer or similar into the recess to keep the dowel rod vertical...
4.11b ... then slide the wiring plug and socket from the timing cover slot
rail assembly to the inlet manifold lower section, then carefully pull the Injectors from the manifold. Lift the fuel rail and Injector assembly, with fuel hoses still connected, and position it to one side. 16 Undo the bolts securing the engine management ECU mounting brackets to the body and move the ECU to one side without disconnecting the wiring connector. 19 Remove the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 20 Unscrew the two sealing plugs from the front and rear of the cylinder head extension to enable the camshaft locking tools to be inserted. 21 Screw the spark plug bodies of the home-made piston positioning tools into each spark plug hole and insert the dowel rods into each body. To keep the dowel rods vertical, locate a suitable washer or similar over Ihe rod and into the recess at the top of the spark plug hole. In the photos shown here, an old valve stem oil seal housing was used but anything similar will suffice (see illustrations). 22 Using a socket on the crankshaft sprocket centre bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until all four dowel rods are protruding from the top of the cylinder head extension by the same amount. As the engine is turned, two of the rods will move up and two will move down until the position is reached where they are all at the same hoight. The best way to check this is to place a straight edge along the top of the rods and turn the crankshafl very slowly until the
4.21c ... then insert the dowel rods
4.12b ... and lower timing covers
straight edge contacts all four rods (see illustration). 23 When all four rods are at the same height, all the pistons will be at the mid-point of their stroke. Using a screwdriver or similar inserted into the front timing hole in the cylinder head extension, check that the timing slot in the exhaust camshaft is approximately aligned with the liming hole. If the camshaft slot cannot be felt, turn the crankshaft through one complete revolution and realign the dowel rods using the straight edge. Check again for the camshaft slot. Note that although the pistons can be at the mid-point of their stroke twice for each cycle of the engine, the camshaft slots will only be positioned correctly once per cycle. 24 With the pistons correctly set, it should now be possible to screw in the camshaft
4.22 Place a straight edge along the top of the rods and turn the crankshaft until the straight edge contacts ail four rods

2B*7 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
35 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut and reposition the tensioner to align the
mobile
indicator with the fixed reference mark
on the
pulley face (see illustration). Hold the
pdley in
this position and tighten the retaining
nut to the
specified torque. 36 Turn the crankshaft through a further two complete turns In the normal direction of rotation. Check that the timing is correct by alining Ihe piston positioning tools and
camshaft
locking tools as described previously. 37 When all is correct, remove the setting rri
locking
tools and refit the sealing plugs to 1ft© cylinder head extension, using new 0-
nr^s if
necessary. Tighten the plugs securely. 38 Refit the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 39 Refit Ihe ECU and secure with Ihe mooning bolts. 40
Renew the
injector O-ring seals, smear them Kith
8 little
Vaseline then locate the injectors and tef rail onto the inlet manifold lower section.
Saute Ihe fuel rail
with the two retaining bolts. 41 Relit the inlet manifold upper section using new sealing O-rlngs If necessary and
sectre
with the two bolts. 42 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the tot injector harness and the intake air temp-erature/pressure sensor, then connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and tha
EVAP
purge valve hose. 43 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the ihrottls potentiometer, idle control stepper motor and coolant temperature sensor. Reconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 44 Refit and adjust the accelerator cable as described in Chapter 4B. 46 Refit the upper and lower timing belt
covers
together with the TDC sensor wiring. 46 Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
three
retaining bolts securely. 47 Refit the air cleaner. Inlet air duct and resonator as described in Chapter 4B. 48
Refit
tha auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described i/t Chapter 1A, then reconnect the battery
S Timing belt tensioner
and
sprockets -
removal
and refitting

Timing
belt tensioner
Removal I
Remove
the timing belt as described in
Section
4. 1 Completely unscrew the tensioner nut and Wiethe tensioner off the mounting stud-Inspection
3 Wipe
the tensioner clean but do not use Kfrents that may contaminate the bearings.
Spin
the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand.
Sfcfl
movement or excessive freeplay is an rcfceticn of severe wear: the tensioner is not 3 serviceable component, and should be nnewsd.
4.33 Holding the camshaft sprocket with the tool described previously while tightening the sprocket bolt Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut. 5 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4. Camshaft sprocket Removal 6 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 7 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of the camshaft. Inspection 8 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 6 and renew it. 9 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 10 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 11 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the retaining boll finger tight only at this stage. 12 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket Removal 13 Remove the timing bell as described In Section 4. 14 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a tool which engages the flywheel starter ring
<

Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the starter ring gear. 15 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face, or a separate key which locates In a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 16 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 17 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 18 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 19 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure
11
engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 14. 20 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft
oil
seal -renewal
1 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Punch or drill a small hole in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fall in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until It seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care nof to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the Seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt as described in Sections 5 and 4.
7 Crankshaft oil seats -renewal I
4.35 Position the tensioner so that the mobile Indicator (1) is aligned with the fixed reference mark (2)
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The front oil seal is located in the oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it.

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).

Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).

2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
8.4 Using a dial gauge to check the crankshaft endfloat 2 Remove the pistons and connecting rods, as described in Section 7. However, If no work fs to be done on the pistons and connecting rods there is no need to remove the cylinder head, or to push the pistons out of the cylinder bores. The pistons should just be pushed far enough up the bores that they are positioned clear of the crankshaft Journals. 3 Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the cylinder block and recover the gasket where fitted. 4 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat using a dial gauge. Push the crankshaft fully one way, and then zero Ihe gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way, and check tho endfloat (see Illustration). The result can be compared with the specified amount, and will give an indication as to whether new thrustwashers are required. 6 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades can be used. First push the crankshaft fully towards the flywheel end of the engine, then use feeler blades to measure the gap - on petrol engines measure between the centre main bearing thrust washer and the crankshaft web. and on diesel engines measure between the rear main bearing and tha crankshaft web. 6 Note the markings on the main bearing caps which vary according to type. On 8-valve petrol engines there is one line on Ihe cap nearest the timing belt end, two on the second cap, C on the centre cap, then three and four lines on the remaining caps (soo illustration). On 16-valve petrol engines, the caps are marked one to five with a series of lines (one line for the cap nearest the timing
8.6 Main bearing markings (petrol engine)
belt end, two for tho next cap and so on). On diesel engines the caps are marked one to live In the same way but with notches instead ol lines. Note also that on some diesel engines the cap nearest the timing belt end Is not marked and the notches therefore start with No 2 cap. 7 Loosen and remove the main bearing cop retaining bolts, and lift off each bearing cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and tape them to their respective caps for safe-keeping. On some diesel engines note that the centre main bearing cap botts are longer than the other bolls. 8 Lift the crankshaft Irom the crankcase and remove the upper bearing shells from the crankcase. If the shells are 1o be used again, keep them identified for position. Also remove the thrustwashers from their position either side of the centre main bearing (petrol engines) or rear main bearing (diesel engines) (see illustrations)
Inspection 9 Wash the crankshaft in a suitable solvent and allow It to dry. Flush the oil holes thoroughly, to ensure that ihey are not blocked - use a pipe cleaner or a needle brush il necessary. Remove any sharp edges from the edge of the holes which may damage the new bearings when they are installed. 10 Inspect the main searing and crankpin journals carefully; if uneven wear, cracking, scoring or pitting are evident then the crankshaft should be reground by an engineering workshop, and refitted to the engine with underslze bearings.
11 Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of each main bearing journal. Taking a number of measurements on the surface of each journal will reveal if it Is worn unevenly. Differences in diameter measured at 90" intervals Indicate that the journal is out of round. Differences In diameter measured aiong the length of the journal, indicate that the journal is tapered. Again. If wear is detected, the crankshaft can be reground by an engineering workshop and refitted with undersize bearings. 12 Check the oil seal journals at either end of the crankshaft. If they appear excessively scored or damaged, they may cause the new seals to leak when the engine is reassembled. It may be possible to repair the |ournal; seek the advice of an engmeenng workshop. 13 Measure the crankshaft runoul by setting up a DTI gauge on the centre main bearing journal and rotating the shaft In V - blocks. The maximum deflection of the gauge will indicate Ihe runout. Take precautions to protect the bearing journals and oil seal mating surfaces from damage during this procedure. A maximum runout figure Is not quoted by the manufacturer, but use the figure of 0.05 mm
a»
a rough guido. If the runoul exceeds this figure, crankshaft renewal should be considered • consult your Flat dealer or an engine rebuilding specialist for advico. 14 Refer to Section 10 for details of main and big-end bearing inspection.
9 Cylinder block/crankcase - % cleaning and inspection Sk
Cleaning 1 Remove all external components, brackets and electrical switches/sensors from the block Including the rear engine plate, injection pump/oil filter bracket and gasket, Intermediate shaft bracket, oH vapour breather casing, and coolant pump. Also unboit and remove the ol return tube from the crankcase (see illustrations). For complete cleaning, the core plugs should Ideally be removed. Drill a small hole in the plugs, then insert a self-tapping screw into the hole. Pull out the plugs by
8.8a Removing the thrustwashers.. ... and upper bearing shells (diesel engine) 8.8o Thrustwashers located on the centre main bearing (petrol engine)

4A«1
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel system - single-point petrol injection models
Contents
Accelerator cable • removal, refitting and adjustment 4 Air cleaner and inlet system - removal and refitting 2 Air cleaner filter element renewal See Chapter 1A Engine management system components - removal 8nd refitting .. 5 fuel filter renewal See Chapter 1A Fuel injection system - depressurlsatlon 8 Fuel injection system • testing and adjusting 10
Degrees of difficulty
Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting 8 Fuel tank - removal and refitting 7 General information and precautions 1 Idle speed and mixture adjustment See Chapter 1A Inlet air temperature regulator • removal and refitting 3 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 9 Unleaded petrol - general Information and usage 11
Easy, suitable for Fairty easy, suitable Fairly difficult, Jx suitable for competent ^ OY mechanic ^
DifficUt, suitable tor % Very difficult, ^ novice with Me for begrmer with &
Fairly difficult, Jx suitable for competent ^ OY mechanic ^ experienced DIY > * suitable for expert D(Y JS or professional ^ experience some experience &
Fairly difficult, Jx suitable for competent ^ OY mechanic ^ mechanic > * suitable for expert D(Y JS or professional ^
Specifications
System type Weber-Marelll integrated single-point fuel injection/ignition system
Fuel system data Fuel pump type Electric, Immersed in fuel tank Fuel pump delivery rate 110 litres/hour minimum Regulated fuel pressure 1.0 ± 0.2 bar Crankshaft TDC sensor resistance at 20°C €50 to 720 ohms Injector duration (at idle)
1
£ ms
Recommended fuel Minimum octane rating 95 RON unleaded
Torque wrench settings Nm ibfft Coolant temperature sensor 3 2 Fuel filter collar nut S 4 Fuel tank 28 21 Idle control stepper motor 4 3 Inlet manifold 27 20 Inlet union to filter 31 23 Outlet union to filter 15 11 Throttle body to manifold 7 5 Throttle potentiometer 3 2

4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
motor c) Ensure that all hoses are correctly reconnected and, where necessary, that their retaining clips are securely tightened. d) Adjust the accelerator cable as described In Section 4.
Fuel injector Note: If a faulty Injector Is suspected, before condemning the Injector, it is worth vying the effect of one of the proprietary Injector cleaning treatments. Removal 8 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described In Section 2. 9 Disconnect the wiring then unscrew the mounting screws and remove Ihe Injector from the throttle body. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel pressure regulator
Removal 11 Remove Ihe air cleaner and air duel as described In Section 2. 12 Using a marker pen. make alignment marks between the regulator cover end the throttle body, then undo the four retaining
screws. As the screws are loosened, place a rag over the cover to catch any fuel spray which may be released. 13 Lift off the cover, then remove the spring and withdraw the diaphragm, noting Its correct fitted orientation. Remove all traces of dirt, and examine the diaphragm for signs of splitting. If damage Is found, it will be necessary to renew the complete upper throttle body assembly. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal ensuring that the diaphragm and cover are fitted the correct way round, and that the retaining screws are securely tightened,
Idle control stepper motor
Removal 15 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), then remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 16 Using a crosshead screwdriver, unscrew the mounting screws and remove the stepper motor from the throttle body. Recover the gaskei (see illustration). 17 Clean the unit and check for damage and wear. Refitting 18 When refitting the unit use a new gasket and make sure that the plunger is inserted correctly using the following procedure. Insert the unit and refit the mounting screws loosely. Reconnect the wiring then switch on the ignition several times so that the unit centralises itself. Finally fully tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. Note: The mounting screws are covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed 19 Leave the battery negative terminal disconnected for about 20 minutes - the injection/ignition ECU will position the Idle control stepper motor correctly the first time the engine is started. Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
Throttle potentiometer
Removal 20 Remove the air cleaner and air duct as described in Section 2. 21 Disconnect the wiring from the throttle potentiometer. 22 Using an Allen key unscrew the mounting screws then withdraw the unit from the throttle body (see Illustration). Note: The mounting screws ere covered with a locking agent and must be renewed every time they are removed. Refitting 23 When refitting the unit make sure that the pin Is correctly engaged, and tighten the mounting screws to the specified torque. 24 If a Rat test Instrument is available, the
operation of the throttle potentiometer can be checked at this stage. Before connecting the wiring first turn Ihe ignition key to position MAR and wait a few seconds, then return the key to the STOP position, Reconnect the wiring and connect the test instrument. Turn the Ignition key to the MAR position and cancel the error that will appear. The throttle position Indicated should be between 0° and 4°. If greater than this, check thai the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted however If the correct reading cannot be obtained renew the unit.
Inlet air temperature sensor
Removal 25 Remove the throtlle body assembly as described earlier In this Section. 28 Extract the plastic pins and remove the press-fit cover from the top of the throttle body. 27 Invert the cover then unscrew the mounting screws and remove the Inlet air temperature sensor from the cover. Refitting 28 Refining Is a reversal of removal.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
Removal 29 The manifold absolute pressure sensor is located on the left-hand side of the bulkhead. 30 Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the sensor from the bulkhead, Disconnect the wiring and vacuum pipe. Refitting 31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check the condition of the vacuum pipe and renew it if necessary.
Coolant temperature sensor
Removal 32 The coolant temperature sensor Is located on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold. Drain the cooling system as described In Chapter 1A before removing it. 33 Disconnect the wiring. 34 Unscrew the sensor and remove It from the Inlet manifold. If using a socket take care not to damage Ihe wiring connector on the sensor. Refitting 35 Refitting Is a reversal of removal bui tighten Ihe sensor to the specified torque. Do not exceed the specified torque otherwise the unit may be damaged.
Crankshaft TDC sensor
Removal 36 The crankshaft TDC sensor Is located on the front side of the crankshaft pulley. Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car Bnd support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking end vehicle support). Remove 5.22 Throttle potentiometer mounting screws

Ihe right-hand front roadwheel and the protective plastic cover under the wheelarch. 37 Disconnect the sensor wiring plug on the front of the engine. 38 Detach the sensor from its mounting. Refitting 39 After refitting Ihe sensor use a feeler blade to check that the gap between sensor and the serrated part of the crankshaft pulley Is between 0.5 and 1.S mm. No adjustment is possible and if the gap is incorrect the sensor and pulley should be checked for possible damage.
Electronic control unit (ECU)
Removal Note: 77ie engine management system has a (earning capability which allows the ECU to store details of the engine's running
characteristics
in its memory,
This
memory
will
tie erased by the disconnection of the battery
cables,
with the resuit that the engine may idle
roughly,
or lack performance for a while, until
the
engine's characteristics are re-teamt. 40 The ECU {electronic control unit) is located on the right-hand Inner wing (see illustration). The 3-pin socket by the ECU is for connection of diagnostic test equipment. 41 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/sconnecffng the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 42 Disconnect the ECU wiring connector, then undo the retaining nuts and remove the unit from the bracket In the engine compartment. Refitting 43 Refitting Is a reversal of removal making sure that the wiring connector is securely reconnected. Inertia safety switch
Removal 44 The inertia safety switch is located by the left-hand side passenger seat. First pull back
the
carpet for access. 45 Disconnect the wiring then unbolt the switch. Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Fuel injection system relays
Removal 47 The fuel injection system relay is located under a plastic cover on the bulkhead. The MAP sensor is also located under the same cover. 48 Two separate relays are incorporated in the single housing; the left-hand relay has a 5 amp fuse and the right-hand relay has a 25 amp fuse. The main purpose of the relays is to supply current to the fuel pump, ignition coils, oxygen sensor. Injectors and EVAP solenoid. The main relay is controlled by the ignition switch.
4A*2 Fuel system - single-point petrol Injection models
6 Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting
Removal Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the rear seat as described in Chapter 11. Prise the fuel pump access cover out of the floor panel to gain access to the pump unit. 3 Disconnect the wiring connector. 4 Bearing in mind the warning given in Section t, disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the pump unit by pressing the tabs (see illustration). Plug the ends of the lines or cover them with adhesive tape. 5 Using a suitable toot, unscrew the large ring nut and carefully withdraw the fuel pump/fuel tank sender unit assembly from the fuel tank, along with its sealing ring. 6 If necessary, the unit can be dismantled and the pump and sender unit separated. If this is the case, carefully note the correct
fitted positions of oil components while dismantling the unit, and use these notes on reassembly to ensure that all items are correctly fitted.
Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure using a new sealing ring. Prior to refitting the access cover, reconnect the battery, then start the engine and check the feed and return unions for signs of leakage.
5.40 ECU located on the right-hand inner wing 49 Remove the cover and pull the relay directly from its socket. Refitting 50 Refitting Is a reversal of removal.
7 Fuel tank -removal and refitting
6.4 Press the tabs Indicated to disconnect the fuel supply and return tines
Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1 before proceeding.
Removal 1 Before removing the fuel tank, all fuel must be drained from the tank. Since a fuel tank drain plug is not provided, it is therefore preferable to carry out the removal operation when the tank is nearly empty. Before proceeding, disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual), and syphon or hand-pump the remaining fuel from the tank. 2 Remove the fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit as described in Section 6. 3 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Loosen the clip and disconnect the filler pipe from the nght-hand side of the fuel tank. 5 Undo the tank flange and strap mounting bolts, then lower the tank out of position until It is possible to access the hose connections on top of the tank. 6 Loosen the clips and disconnect the EVAP purge hose and breather hose from the fuel tank. If necessary, the filler neck can be detached from the body. 7 Check that all hoses and wiring is disconnected, then remove the tank from underneath the vehicle. Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring all hoses are correctly routed and securely reconnected.
8 Fuel injection system - ^ depressurisation
Note: Refer to the warning given In Section t before proceeding.

A


Warning; The following procedure will merely relievo the pressure in the fuel system • remember that fuel will still be present In the system components and take precautions accor-dingly before disconnecting any of them.

4B*1
Chapter 4 Part B:
Fuel system - multi-point petrol injection models
Contents
Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment 4 Air cleaner and Inlet system • removal and refitting 2 Air cleaner filter element renewal See Chapter 1A Engine management system components (1242 cc, 8-valve engines) -removal and refitting 5 Engine management system components (1242 cc, 16-valve engines) - removal and refitting 6 Fuel filter renewal See Chapter 1A Fuel Injection system - depressurisation 9
Degrees of difficulty
Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment 11 Fuel pump and fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting 7 Fuel tank - removal and refitting 8 General Information and precautions 1 Idle speed and mixture adjustment See Chapter 1A Inlet air temperature regulator - removal and refitting 3 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 10 Unleaded petrol • general Information and usage 12

Easy, suitable
for ^
novice with
Ittie experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable Jk for beginner
with
® someexperiencs ^
FaMycSffiait, J^ suitable
for
competent ^
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult
suitable
for experienced BY SJ mechanic ^

Very difficult,
^
suitable
for expert
DIY
jR or professional ^
Specifications
System type
Fuel system data Fuel pump type Fuel pump delivery rate: 1242 cc (8-vatve) engine 1242 cc (16-valve) engine Regulated fuel pressure: 1242 cc (8-vaive) engine: Pre-1998 models 1998 models onward 1242 cc (16*valve) engine Crankshaft TDC sensor resistance al 20°C Injector electrical resistance: Pre-1998 models 1998 models onward Injector duration (at Idle)
Recommended fuel Minimum octane rating
Torque wrench settings Coolant temperature sensor
Idle
control stepper motor Inlet manifold brake servo union Inlet manifold upper section-to-lower section (16-valve engines) Inlet manifold-to-cylinder head (16-valve engines) Inlet manlfold-to-cylinder head (8-valve engines) Throttle body to manifold Throttle potentiometer
Weber-Marelli integrated multi-point fuel injection/ignition system
Electric, immersed In fuel tank
120 Hires/hour minimum 110 litres/hour minimum
2.5 bars 3.5 bars 3.0 bars 650 to 720 ohms
16.2 ohms 13.8 to 15.2 ohms 2.0 ms
95 RON unleaded
Nm Ibfft a 2 4 3 35 26 9 7 15 11 27 20 7 5 3 2