wheel FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Owners Manual

Suspension and steering 10*11
13.11b ... and left-hand steering gear-to-subframe bolts
hooked onto the engine lifting eyelet on the cylinder head. Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt and remove the transmission-lo-subframe rear mounting bracket. 13 Position a trolley jack under the right hand skle of the subframe crossmember. Raise the jack to take the weight of the crossmember
and
the attached components. 14 With reference to Section 4, slacken and remove the two bolts that secure the suspension lower arm rear bush to the subframe. Slacken and withdraw the subframe-to-bodywork bolt, located adjacent to the rear of the suspension lower arm. Throad two flange head bolts of the same thread size, but approximately 25 mm longer into the vacated holes, then carefully lower
the
trolley jack and allow ihe subframe to rest on the heads of the temporary bolts (see (lustration), 15 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 13 end 14 at the left-hand side of the vehicle. On completion, the subframe should be resting at
&
height approximately 25 mm lower than normal. 16 The additional clearance will now permit the steering gear pinion to be lowered away from the bulkhead. When the end of the pinion has cleared Ihe aperture, manoeuvre the entire steering gear assembly through the *tiae?arch.
Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the
following points: s) Remote the temporary bolts and refit the original length fixings.
13.14 Slacken and remove the subframe-to-bodywork bolts (arrowed)
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque settings. c) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (see Lubricants and fluids In Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described in Section 15. d) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest oppor-tunity by a Flat dealer or a tyre specialist.
14 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal <
Note: New gaiter retaining clips should be used on refitting. 1 Remove the relevant track-rod end as described in Section 17. 2 If not already done, unscresv the track-rod end locknut from Ihe end of the track-rod. 3 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter on the track-rod, then release the gaiter securing clips. Slide the gailer from the steering gear, and off the end of the track-rod. 4 Thoroughly clean tho track-rod and the steering gear housing, usrng fine abrasive paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or sharp edges, which might damage the new gaiter sealing lips on installation. Scrape off all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it to the track-rod inner balljoint. (This assumes that grease has not been lost or contaminated as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use fresh crease if In doubt.) 5 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track-rod. and locate it on the steering gear housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter with the mark made on the track-rod prior to removal, then secure it in position with new retaining clips. 6 Screw the track-rod end locknut onto the end of the track-rod. 7 Refit the track-rod end as described in Section 17.
15 Power steering hydraulic system • bleeding ^
General 1 The following symptoms indicate that there is air present In the power steering hydraulic system: a) Generation of air bubbles in fluid reservoir. b) Clicking noises from power steering pump. c) Excessive buzzing or groaning from power steering pump. 2 Note that when the vehicle Is stationary, or while moving the steering wheel slowly, a hissing noise may be produced In the steering gear or the fluid pump. This noise is inherent in the system, and does not indicate any cause for concern.
Bleeding 3 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Check the fluid level in the power steering fluid reservoir (bear in mind that the vehicle will be tilted, so the level cannot be read accurately), and if necessary top-up to just above the relevant level mark. 5 Have an assistant tum the steering quickly from lock to lock, and observe tho fluid level, if the fluid level drops, add more fluid, and repeat the operation until the fluid level no longer drops. Failure to achieve this within a reasonable period may indicate a leak in the system. 6 Stan the engine and repeat the procedure described In the previous paragraph. 7 Once the fluid level has stabilised, and all air has been bled from the system, lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Power steering pump - Sk removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or an old poultry baster. 2 Remove the clip and disconnect the rubber fluid supply hose from the port on the top of the power steering pump. Be prepared for an amount of fluid loss • position a container underneath the port and pad the surrounding area with absorbent rags. 3 Slacken the union and disconnect the fluid delivery hose from the side of the power steering pump. Again, be prepared for an amount of fluid loss. 4 Unscrew tho clamp bolt and through-bolt at either end of the drivebelt guard, then detach Ihe guard from the power steering pump (see illustrations). 5 Partially unscresv the two power steering pump mounting bolts then rotate the pump towards the engine slightly, to release the tension from the belt. Carefully ease the drivebelt from the pump pulley.
16.4a Unscrew the clamp bolt...

10*12 Suspension and steering
16.4b ... and through-bolt...
6 Remove the two pump mounting bolts (see Illustrations) that were slackened earlier, then remove the pump from the engine.
Refitting 7 Refilling is a reversal, noting the following points: a) On completion, check and j? necessary adjust the dm'ebelt tension ay described In Chapter JA or IB. b) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (sw lubricants and fluids in Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described In Section 15. c) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque setting,
17 Track-rod end -removal and refitting ^ S
Removal Note: A ball joint separator tool will do required for this operation. A new track-rod end nut split pin should be used on refitting. 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake,
I
hen jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant front roadwheel. 2 Partially unscrew the nut securing the (rack-rod end to the steering arm. Using a
17.2a Balljoint separator tool In use on the track-rod end
16.4c ... then detach the guard from the power steering pump
ballpoint separator tool, separate Ihe track-rod end from tho steering arm (see Illustrations). 3 Counterhold the track-rod end using the flats provided, then loosen ihe irack-rod end locknut (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the track-rod end from the track-rod, counting the exact number of turns required to do so. Alternatively, mark the relationship between the track-rod end and the trock-rod using a dab of p3lnL
Refitting 5 Carefully clean the track-rod end and the track-rod threads. 6 Renew the track-rod end if the rubber dust cover Is cracked, split or perished, or If the movement of the balijoint is either sloppy or too stiff. Also check lor other signs of damage such as worn threads. 7 Screw the track-rod end onto ihe track-rod by ihe number ol turns noted before removal. Tighten the locknut temporarily. 8 Ensure that Ihe balljoint taper is clean, then engage the taper wilh the steering arm on the hub carrier. 9 Refit the balljoint nut, and tighten to the specified torque. 10 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 11 Have tho front wheel alignment checked by a Rat dealer or tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity. Note: // the vehicle has to be driven to have the wheel alignment checked, the track-rod end locknut should be tightened before drMng the vehicle.
17.2b Separato tho track-rod end from the steering arm
18.6b ... and rear mounting bolts
18 Wheel alignment and steering angles -general information
General information 1 A car's steering and suspension geomeiry Is defined in four basic settings • with this exception of toe sotting, all angles arc expressed in degrees: the relevant setting! are camber, castor, steering axis inclination, and toe-setting. With ihe exception of toe-sett ing, none of these settings are acfjustabitf.
Front wheel toe setting
Chocking 2 Due to the special measuring equlpr 17.3 Counterhold the track-rod end, then loosen the locknut (arrowed)
expert22 fl/m http://rutracker.org

Suspension and steering 10*13
the skill required to use It properly, the checking and adjustment of these settings Is best left to a Fiat dealer or similar expert. Most tyre-fitting shops now possess sophisticated checking equipment. 3 For accurate checking, the vehicle must be at the kerb weight specified in Dimensions and weights. 4 Before starting work, check first that the tyre sizes and types are as specified (see Tyre pressures in Weekly checks), then check tyre pressures and tread wear. Also check roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub bearings, the steering wheel free play and the condition of the front suspension components (Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or
1B).
Correct any faults found. 6 Park the vehicle on level ground, with the front roadwheeis in the straight-ahead position. Rock the rear and front ends to settle the suspension. Release the handbrake and roll the vehicle backwards approximately 1 metre, then forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the steering and suspension components. 6 Two methods are available to the home mechanic for checking the front wheel toe setting. One method is to use a gauge to measure the distance between the front and rear inside edges of the roadwheeis. The other method is to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel is rolled across a movable plate which records any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the straight-ahead position as It moves across the plate. Such gauges are available in relatively-inexpensive form from accessory outlets. It Is up to the owner to decide whether the expense is justified, In view of the small amount of use such equipment would normally receive. 7 Prepare the vehicle 8S described in paragraphs 3 to 5 above.
8 If the measurement procedure is being used, carefully measure the distance between the front edges of the roadwheel rims and the rear edges of the rims. Subtract the front measurement from the rear measurement, and check that the result is within the specified range. If not, adjust the toe setting as described in paragraph 10. 9 If scuff plates are to be used, roll the vehicle backwards, check that the roadwheeis are in the straight-ahead position, then roll it across the scuff plates so that each front roadwheel passes squarely over the centre of its respective plate. Note the angle recorded by the scuff plates. To ensure accuracy, repeat the check three times, and take the average of the three readings, if the roadwheeis are running parallel, there will of course be no angle recorded; If a deviation value Is shown on the scuff plates, compare the reading obtained for each wheel with that supplied by the scuff plate manufacturers. If the value recorded is outside Ihe specified tolerance, the toe setting is incorrect, and must be adjusted as follows. Adjustment 10 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record the number of exposed threads on the right-hand track-rod. Now turn the steering onto full-right lock, and record the number of threads on the left-hand side. If there are the same number of threads visible on both sides, then subsequent adjustment should be made equally on both sides. If there are more threads visible on one side than the other, it will be necessary to compensate for this during adjustment Note: It is important to ensure that, after adjustment, the same number of threads are visible on the end of each track-rod.
11 First clean the track-rod threads; If they are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before starting adjustment. Release the steering gear rubber gaiter outboard clips, then peel back the gaiters and apply a smear of grease, so that both gaiters are free and will not be twisted or strained as their respective track-rods are rotated. 12 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or similar to mark the relationship of each track-rod to the track-rod end. Working on each track-rod end in tum, unscrew its locking nut. 13 Alter the length of the track-rods, bearing In mind the note in paragraph 10, by screwing them into or out of the track-rod ends. Rotate the track-rod using an open-ended spanner fitted to the flats provided. If necessary, counterhold the track-rod end using a second spanner. Shortening the track-rods (screwing them Into their track-rod ends) will reduce toe-in and increase toe-out. 14 When the setting Is correct, hold the track-rods and securely tighten the locking nuts. Check that the balljoints are seated correctly In their sockets, and count the exposed threads on the ends of the track-rods. If the number of threads exposed is not the same on both sides, then the adjustment has not been made equally, and problems will be encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer be horizontal when the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. 15 When the track-rod lengths are the same, lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check the toe setting; readjust if necessary. When the setting is correct, tighten the locking nuts. Ensure that the steering gear rubber gaiters are seated correctly and are not twisted or strained, then secure them In position with new retaining clips.
10

10*1
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Bonnet • removal and refitting 11 Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting 12 Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting 13 Door - removal and refitting 15 Door handle and lock components • removal and refitting 16 Door inner trim panel • removal and refitting 14 Electric window components • removal and refitting 18 Exterior mirror components - removal and refitting 17 Facia - removal and refitting 19 Front bumper • removal and refitting 6
General Information 1 Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 2 Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 3 Major body damage - repair 5 Minor body damage - repair 4 Rear bumper - removal and refitting 7 Seats • removal and refitting 20 Tailgate - removal and refitting 8 Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting 10 Tailgate strut - removal and refitting 9
Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for
novice with littie experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable ^ for beginner with ^
some
experience

Fairty difficult,
^
suitable
fcr competent
DIY
mechanic ^
Difficult,
suitable (or
^ experienced DIY »R mechanic ^

Very difficult,
^
suitable
for
expert CHY
or professional ^
Specifications
! Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft Bonnet-to-hinge botts 8 6 Door hinge-to-body bolts 35 26
1 Genera! information
The bodyshell is composed of pressed-steel sections which are welded together, although some use of structural adhesives is made. In addition, the front wings are bolted i on. ' The bonnet, door and some other panels I vulnerable to corrosion are fabricated from zinc-coated metal. A coating of anti-chip primer, applied prior to paint spraying I provides further protection. Extensive use is made of plastic materials. ' mainly In the Interior, but also in exterior components. The outer sections of the front l and rear bumpers are injection-moulded from
a
synthetic material which is very strong, and yet light. Plastic components such as wheel | arch liners are fitted to the underside of the vehicle, to improve Ihe body's resistance to I corrosion.
2 Maintenance - ^ bodywork and underframe ||
The general condition of a vehicle's bodywork is the one thing that significantly affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after minor damage, can lead quickly to further deterioration and costly repair bills. It is important also to keep watch on those parts of the vehicle not immediately visible, for instance the underside, inside all the wheel arches, and the lower part of the engine compartment. The basic maintenance routine for the bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of water, from a hose. This will remove all the loose solids which may have stuck to the vehicle. It is important to flush these off in such a way as to prevent grit from scratching the finish. The wheel arches and underframe need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud. which will retain moisture and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically enough, the best time to clean the underframe and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of large accumulations automatically, and this is a good time for inspection. Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-based underbody protective coating, it is a good idea to have the whole of the underframe of Ihe vehicle steam-cleaned, engine compartment included, so that a thorough inspection can be carried out to see what minor repairs and renovations are necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at many garages, and is necessary for the removal of the accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes is allowed to become thick In certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are

11 *4 Bodywork and fittings
6.3s Remove the screws... 6.3b ... and lower the front section of the plastic wheel arch liners away from the bodywork
6 Front bumper -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Access to the front bumper mountings may be Improved by raising the front ot Ihe vehicle and resting it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), 2 Remove the direction indicator units from both front wings, as described In Chapter 12. Section 6. 3 Remove the screws and lower both plastic wheel arch liners away from the bodywork (see Illustrations), 4 Reach inside the wheel arch and remove the retaining screws from the trailing edges of Ihe bumper moulding (see illustration). 5 Slacken and withdraw the four screws from
6.S Slacken and withdraw the four screws from the lower edge of the bumper the lower edge of the bumper (see illustration). 6 Support Ihe bumper moulding, then remove the four retaining bolts from the upper edge of the bumper (located eithor side of the headlight units) (see Illustration).
7.4 Slacken and withdraw tho four screws 7.5 Remove the four retaining bolts from from the lower edge of the bumper the upper edge of the bumper
6.4 Remove the retaining screws (arrowed) from the trailing odges of the bumper moulding
6.6 Remove the retaining bolts (arrowed) from either side of (he headlight units 7 Where applicable, unplug the wiring from the rear of tho fogiamp units. 8 Unclip any electrical cabling securea to tne rear side of Ihe bumper and then carefully draw the bumper away from fhe front ot the vehicle.
Refitting 9 The bumper is refitted by following the removal procedure in reverse.
7 Rear bumper
-
% removal and refitting
Removal 1 Access to the rear bumper mountings may be improved by raising the rear of the vehicle and resting it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), 2 After removing the retaining screws and nuts, lower both rear wheel arch plastic liners away from the bodywork (see Illustration) ( 3 Reach Inside the rear wheel arches and remove the retaining screws from the leading edges ot the bumper moulding (see illustration). 4 Stackon and withdraw the four screws from the lower edge of the bumper (see illustration). 1 5 Support the bumper moulding, then remove the four retaining bolts from the upper edge ol the bumper (see illustration). 6 Unclip any electrical cabling that may Dt secured to the inside of ihe bumper, thM carefully draw the bumper off its guide brackets and away from the rear ot the vehicle.

Bodywork and fittings
11
*11
securing the motor assembly/winder mechanism to the door 5 Uft the glass out through the window aperture in the top of the door, manipulating the glass past the weatherstrips as it is withdrawn. On 3-door models, it will be necessary to partially remove the weatherstrip from the upper edge of Ihe window aperture, to allow the glass to be withdrawn. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a) Ensure that all weather stnps are
securely
seated on the edges of the window aperture. b) Check the operation of the window regulator mechanism before refitting the door inner trim panel. | 0 Refit the door inner trim panel with | reference to Section 14.
1 Door window regulator
Removal 7 Separate the window glass from the regulator mechanism, as described earlier. 6 Fully raise the window glass, and secure the glass In position using suitable tape, or by wedging the glass in position using rags between the glass and the edge of the door • ensure that the glass cannot drop into the door. Alternatively, lift the glass panel out 1 through the window aperture. 9 Where applicable, separate the two halves of the regulator motor wiring connector. I 10 Unscrew the bolts securing the motor assembly/winder mechanism to the door (see Illustration). t1 Unscrew the two upper and the two lower regulator mechanism securing bolts, then manipulate the complete regulator assembly out through the aperture in the door (see illustrations). 12 The winder/motor assembly, together with its associated control cables remains connected to the regulator mechanism (see Illustration), Note: Carefully mark the relationship between the guide rails and the door to ensure correct adjustment on refitting. Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing r mind the following points: a) Ensure that all weather strips are securely I seated on the edges of the window aperture
16.11c ... then manipulate the complete regulator assembly out through the aperture in the door b) Check the operation of the window mechanism before refitting the door inner trim panel. c) Refil the door inner tnm panel with reference to Section 14.
19 Facia - ^ removal and refitting 5
Removal 1 Disconnect the batlery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and carry out Ihe following: a) Remove the instrument panel from the facia.
19.5a Prise open the plastic covers...
18.11b ... and the lower regulator mechanism securing bolts...
assembly
b) Remove the radio/cassette unit from the facia 3 Unscrew the fixings for the storage bin above the radio aperture, then remove the bin from the facia. 4 Remove the steenng wheel (see Chapter 10) and the steering column shroud. 5 Prise open the plastic covers, remove the fixings and lift off the handbrake lever console (see Illustrations). 6 Work around the outside of the centre console and unscrew the fixings. Unclip the gear lever gaiter, lift the centre console over the gear lever, then label and unplug the wiring connector beneath and remove the console from the vehicle. 7 Remove the heater control panel from the facia, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Unscrew the fixings from the upper and lower edges of the combined ventilation/
19.5b ... remove the fixings...

Body electrical systems 12*5
4.27 Withdraw the tight unH, then twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise to release it from the light unit
Front fogllght 30 Access to the rear of the fogllght units can be gained by via removable hatches in plastic inner wheel arch liners. 31 Turn the steering wheel to angle the roadwheel away from the rear of the relevant fogllght. 32 Reach through the wheel arch liner and disconnect the wiring from the rear of the fogllght unit at the connector (see illustration). 33 Unscrew the rear cover from the foghghl unit by turning it anticlockwise (see Illustration). 34 Unplug the flying lead from the push-fit connector inside of the rear cover. Release Ihe spring clip, and withdraw the bulb from the rear of the light unit (see illustrations). 35 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of Ihe removal procedure, ensuring that the recess In the bulb flange engages with the lug in the bulbholder.
Rear light cluster bulbs 38 Open the tailgate. Working from within the loadspace. prise the plastic caps from the rear pillar trim panel (see illustration). 37 Using the special socket provided with the vehicle's toolkit, unscrew the rear light cluster securing bolts (see illustrations). 38 Pull the light cluster away from the bodywork. Unplug the electrical wiring at the connector (see illustrations).
4.37b ... unscrew the rear light cluster securing bolts (arrowed)
4.32 Disconnect the wiring from the rear 4.33 Unscrew the rear cover from the of the fogtight unit at the connector fogllght unit by turning It anticlockwise
4.38a Pull the light cluster away from the 4.38b ... unplug the electrical wiring at bodywork... the connector

12*8 Body electrical systems
6.10 Front foglamp beam adjustment screw (arrowed)
Front direction indicator side repeater light 7 The procedure is described as pari of the bulb renewal procedure In Section 4.
Front foglight 8 Remove the hatch from the wheel arch liner and unplug Ihe wiring Irom the rear of the foglamp unit. 9 The front foglamps are secured to tho valence by three screws • one directly above the light unit, accessed from the front and two accessed Irom below the valence. Once these ere removed, the foglamp can be removed via the hatch in the wheel arch liner. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On complellon, it Is advisable to check the foglight beam alignment. If necessary, the beam may be altered using the adjustment screw (see Illustration)
Rear light cluster 11 The procedure is described as part of the bulb renewal procedure in Section 4.
7 Instrument panel -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the securing screws from 1he instrument panel surround.
9.2 Unplug the wiring from the hom at tho connector (arrowed)
7.3a Carefully pull the panel oway from the facia 3 Carefully pull tho panel away from (he facia. Label each bundle of electrical cables carefully to old refitting later end then unplug them nt the connectors (see illustrations). Where a mechanical speedometer drive is fitted, disconnect the dnve coble from the rear of the instrument panel, 4 The individual gauges are Illuminated by filament bulbs. These are a bayonet fit In the rear of the Instrument panel and can be removed individually by rotating them through a quarter turn and withdrawing them • refer to Section 5 for details.
Refitting 5 Refit the instrument panel by following the removal procedure in reverse
8 Headlight beam alignment -general information
Accurate adjustment ot the headlight beam is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or suitably-equipped workshop. Incorrectly adjusted headlamps can dazzle other drivers and cause accidents. Certain models are equipped with a headlight aim adjustment switch, located on the facia, which allows the aim of tho headlights lo be adjusted to compensate lor tho varying loads carried in the vehicle. The switch should be positioned according to Ihe
9.3 Unscrew the securing bolt (arrowed) and remove the horn sounder
7.3b Label and then unplug the wiring connectors load being carried in the vehicle - refer to lie vehicle's handbook for details.
9 Horn -removal and refitting
Removal 1 The horn is mounted on the lower edge o! the front left hand wing, behind Ihe front bumper moulding. To gain access, remove the screws and detach the hatch from the wheel arch linor. 2 Reach through the aperture in the wheel arch liner and unplug the wiring Irom the hom st the connector (see Illustration). 3 Unscrew the securing boll (see Illustration) and remove the horn sounder.
Refitting 4 Refit the hom by following the removal procedure in reverse.
10 Loudspeakers -removal and refitting §;
1 Ensure that the radio/cassette unit is switched off.
Facia mounted front speakers 2 Remove the screw and lift off the
facia
grfle (see illustration).
10.2 Remove tho screw and lift off the facia grille

Body electrical systems 12*9
3 Undo the mounting screws and lift out the speaker (see Illustration). Unplug the wiring at the connector. 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal,
Rear parcel shelf speakers 5 Working underneath the relevant parcel shetf support bracket, remove the securing screws and lower the loudspeaker from the support bracket. Unplug the wiring at the connector (see illustration). 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11 Radio aerial - J^s removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Carefully prise off the plastic cap. then remove the securing screws and withdraw the aerial from the roof. 2 Oraw the aerial co-axial cable through the roof aperture and disconnect it. If there is insufficient slack In the aerial cable, remove the courtesy light unit/overhead panel from the inside of the vehicle (as described earlier in this Chapter) to gain access to the cable connector,
Refitting 3 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but ensure that seal between the aerial housing and the roof panel is in good condition.
12.2 Removing the radio/cassette unit using the special extraction tools
12.3 Disoonnect the wiring plugs from the rear of the unit. Note the bayonet fuse (arrowed) which is a push fit In the rear of the unit
10.3 Lift out the speaker and unplug the wiring at the connector
12 Radio/cassette player -removal and refitting ^
Removal Note: Once the battery has been disconnected, the radio/cassette unit cannot be re-activated until the appropriate security code has been entered. Do not remove the unit unless the appropriate code Is known. 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Insert the special extraction tools supplied with the vehicle into the holes on either side of the radio/cassette unit. Press them home until the Internal clips can be felt to release (see illustration). 3 Pull the unit forwards from the facia, then disconnect the wiring plugs and the aerial lead from the rear of the unit. Note the bayonet fuse, which is a push fit in the rear of the unit, (see illustration).
Refitting A Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that the wiring Is routed freely behind the unit.
13 Speedometer drive cable - % removal and refitting Ss ^
Note: Later vehicles are fitted with an electronic transducer in place of the mechanical speedometer drive. This is mounted on the fransm/ss/on casing; refer to Chapter 7A, Section 3, for details.
Removal 1 Remove the instrument panel as described in Section 7. 2 Working in the engine compartment, unscrew the sleeve securing the cable end to gearbox, then pull the cable from gearbox. 3 Where applicable, release the cable from the brackets in the engine compartment bulkhead, then pull the cable through into the engine compartment. If necessary, pull the cable grommet from the bulkhead.
10.S Lower the loudspeaker from the support brackot and unplug tho wiring at the connector
Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points: a} Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is securely seated. b) Refit the instrument panel with reference to Section 7. c) Note that certain models have alignment marks on the cable outer for use when refitting. The marks should be aligned with the bulkhead bracket when the cable is correctly refitted and routed.
14 Switches -removal and refitting ^
Steering column stalk switches Note: On vehicles equipped with sfeezing wheel-mounted radio controls, the column stalk switch unit also incorporates the rotary contacts for the steering wheel switches. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative cable and position it away from the terminal. Turn the steering wheel so that the roadwheeis are pointing in the straight-ahead position. 2 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the steering wheel from the column. 3 Remove the screws and lift off the upper and lower steering column shrouds. 4 Using an Allen key. slacken Ihe clamp ring at the rear of the switch unit (see illustration),
14.4 Using an Allen key, slacken the clamp ring at the rear of the switch unit

12*10 Body electrical systems
14.5 Remove the switch unit the steering column and unplug the wiring connectors 14.9 Carefully lever the switch body out of the facia, using a flat btaded instrument
14.10 Unplug the wiring from tho rear of the switch body at the connector
5 Pull the switch unit along ihe steering column slightly, then label and unplug the wiring connectors from the rear of the unit (sec Illustration). 6 Remove the switch unit from the steering column Refitting 7 Refitting is reversal of removal • ensure that the steering column/roadwheels are still in the straight-ahead position. On completion, ensure that the direction indicator cancelling mechanism lunations correctly.
Headlamp beam adjustment switch 8 Disconnect the battery negative cable and position il away from the terminal. 9 Carefully lever the switch body out of the facia, using a flat bladed instrument. Pad the
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Courtesy light/door ajar warning switches 16 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in thf Reference Section of this manual). 17 Open the door to expose the switch
in
the door 8-plHar. 18 Remove the secunng screw, then remove the rubber gaiter (where applicable) ant) withdraw the switch from the door pillar. Disconnect the wiring connector as tl becomes accessible.
Tape the wiring to the
door
i m | pillar, or tie a length of
string
HlNTi to the wiring, to retrieve itttit falls back Into the door pillar.
14.14 Remove the screws and lift the switch bank from the rear of the facia panel
facia with a small piece of card to prevent the Instrument blade from damaging it (see illustration). 10 Unplug the wiring Irom Ihe rear of the switch body at Ihe connector (see illustration). 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal
Stop-light switch 12 Refer to the information in Chapter 9
Centre console switches 13 With reference to Chapter 11, Section 19, remove the combined air ventilation/switch panel from the facia. 14 Remove the screws and lift Ihe switch bank from Ihe rear of the panel (see illustration),
19 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the rubber gaiter is securely seated over the switch.
Electric window switches 20 Refer to the information given
In
Chapter It, Section 14.
15 Tailgate wiper motor - & removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 2 Remove the tailgate inner trim panel with reference to Chapter 11, Section 8. 3 Remove the wiper arm with reference to Section 18. 4 Working inside the tailgate, unplug tlx tailgate wiper motor wiring at Ihe connector and disconnect the washer hose at
1he
union (see illustrations). 6 Unscrew the bolts securing the motor mounting bracket to the tailgate (see illustration). 6 Withdraw the motor assembly through tte aperture in the tailgate (see illustration).
15.4a Working inside the tellgate, unplug tho tailgate wiper motor wiring at the connector...
. and disconnect tho washer hose at the union 15.5 Unscrew the bolts securing the motor mounting bracket to the tailgate