wheel torque FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Owner's Guide

Braking system 9®5
2 Rotate the brake disc by hand and examine the whole of the surface area swept by the brake pads, on both sides ot the disc. Note: /( will bo necessary to remove the front brake pads to allow an adequate inspection of the disc's rear surface; refer to Section 2 tor details. 3 Typically, the disc surface will have a polished appearance and should be free from heavy scoring. Smooth rippling is produced by normal operation and does not indicate excessive wear. Deep scoring and cracks, however, are indications of more serious damage in need of correction. 4 If deep scoring Is discovered, it may be possible to have the disc reground to restore the surface, depending on the extent of the damage. To determine whether this is a feasible course of action, it will be necessary to measure the thickness of the disc, as described later. 5 Check the whole surface of the disc for cracks, particularly around the roadwheel bolt holes. A cracked disc mutt be renewed. 6 A ridge of rust and brake dust at the inner and outer edges of the disc, beyond the pad contact area is normal - this can be scraped tway quite easily. 7 Raised ridges caused by the brake pads eroding the disc material, however, are an indication of excessive wear. If close examination reveals such ridges, the oiicknoss of the disc must be measured, to usess whether it is still fit for use. 8 To measure the thickness of the disc, take readings at several points on the surface using a micrometer. In the area swept by the brake pads (see Illustration). Include any points where the disc has been scored: align me Jaws of the micrometer with the deepest ares of scoring, to get a true indication of the extent of the wear. Compare these ineasurements with the limits listed in the Specifications. If the disc has worn below its minimum thickness, at any point, it must be renewed. 9 If the discs are suspected of causing brake luddor, check the disc runout, using one of
me
following methods: Runout measurement -
DTI
gauge method 10 Refit the four roadwheel bolts, together
w.1h
one M14 plain washer per stud • this will ensure adequate disc to hub contact. Tighten te studs to 5 Nm (4 Ibf ft). 11 Clamp the DTI gauge to a stand and attach the stand, preferably via a magnetic oase. to the strut mounting bracket. Align the jauge so that its pointer rests upon the area of the dtsc swept by the brake pads, on an arc i mm from the outer edge of tho disc (soe illustration). 12 Zero the gauge and slowly rotate the disc trough one revolution, observing tho pointer rcovement. Note the maximum deflection recorded and compare the figure with that >«ted In Specifications.
4.8 Measuring brake disc thickness with a micrometer
Runout measurement -feeler blade method 13 Use the feeler blades to measure the clearance between the disc and a convenient fixed point, such as the disc backplate. Rotate the disc and measure the variation in clearance at several points around the disc, Compare the maximum figure with that listed in Specifications. 14 If the disc runout Is outside of its specified tolerance, first check that the hub Is not worn (see Steering and suspension check in Chapter 1A or 1B). If the hub is In good condition, remove the disc (as described later in this Section), rotate it through 180° and refit it. This may improve the seating and eradicate Ihe excessive runout. 15 If the runout is still unacceptable, then It may be possible to restore the disc by regrinding; consult your Fiat dealer or a machine shop for a professional opinion - it may prove more economical to purchase a new disc. If the disc cannot be reground, then it must be renewed.
Removal 16 Mark the relationship between the disc and the hub with chalk or a marker pen, to allow correct refitting. 17 To allow the disc to be removed, undo the two bolts securing (he brake caliper mounting bracket to the hub carrier (see illustration 3.7). Withdraw the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly, complete with brake pads, from the hub carrier, and hang it from a rigid point on the suspension, using v/lre or a
4.18a Slacken and remove the disc locating studs ...
4.11 Brake disc runout measurement - DTI gauge method
cable-tie. Oo not allow it to dangle freely as this will strain the brake hose. 18 Slacken and remove the disc locating stud(s). Support the disc as you do this and lift it off as it becomes free (see illustrations). 19 Remove the polished glaze from the surface of the disc with sand/emery paper. Use small, circular motions to avoid producing a directional finish on the surface.
Refitting 20 If a new disc Is being fitted, remove the protective coating from the surface U9ing an appropriate solvent. 21 Locate Ihe disc on ihe hub so that the roadwheel bolt and locating stud holes are all correctly lined up; use the alignment marks made during removal. If the disc is being removed in an attempt to improve seating and hence runout, turn the disc through 180° and then refit it. 22 Refit the locating stud and retaining screw, tightening them securely. 23 Re-check the disc runout, using one of the methods described earlier in this Section. 24 Refil the brake caliper and mounting bracket assembly to the hub carrier. Coat the threads of the mounting bolts with locking compound, then tighten them to the specified torque. 25 Depress the brake pedal several times to bnng the brake pads into contact with the disc. 26 Refit the roadwheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the specified torque. 27 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks.
4,18b ... and lift off the disc as It becomes free

9*8 Braking system
6 Carefully examine the Inside of tho drum. Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, but if heavy scoring Is found, the drum must be renewed. 7 It is usual to find a lip on the dmm's inboard edge which consists of a mixture of rust and brake dust: this should be carefully scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120 to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the tip is due to the friction surface being recessed by excessive wear, then the drum must be renewed. 6 If the drum Is thought to be excessively worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be measured at several points using an internal micrometer. Take measurements In pairs, the second at right-angles to the first, and compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the dium to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it may be possible to have the drum refinished by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, Ihe drums on both sides must be renewed. Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH drums must be refinished. to maintain a consistent Internal diameter on both sides.
Refitting 9 II a new brake drum is to be Installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating thai may have been applied to its internal fnction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the sedated strut wheel, lo allow Ihe drum lo poss over the brake shoes • see Section S for details. 10 II tho original dfum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then lit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure Is restored. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described In Section 9. 13 Refit tho roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting jS

A


Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at tho beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers ot handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the brake drum fsee Section 6). 2 Remove the brake shoes (see Section 5). 3 To minimise fluid loss during the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten it down onto a piece of polythene, lo obtain an airtight seal.
the hydraulic pipe from the rear of the wheel cylinder 4 Clean the brake backplate around Ihe wheel cylinder mounting boits and the hydraulic pipe union, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect Ihe hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Cover the open ends of the pipe and the master cylinder to prevent dirt ingress, 5 Remove the securing bolts, then withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate (soe Illustration).
Overhaul Note: Before commencing woric, ensure that the appropriate wheel cylinder overhaul kit is obtained. 6 Clean tho assembly thoroughly, using only methylated spirit or clean brake fluid, 7 Peel off both rubber dust covers, then use paint or similar to mark one ot the pistons so that the pistons are not interchanged on reassembly. 8 Withdraw both pistons and tho spring. 9 Discard the rubber piston cups and the dust covers. These components should be renewed as a matter of course, and are available 3s part of an overhaul kit, which also Includes the bleed nipple dust cap. 10 Check the condition of the cylinder bore and the pistons - the surfaces must be perfect and free from scratches, scoring and corrosion, It is advisable to renew the complete wheel cylinder if there is any doubt as to the condition ot the cylinder bore or pistons. 11 Ensure thai all components are clean and dry. The pistons, spring and cups should be
8.4 Location of brake tight switch-LHD model shown
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate fitted wet, using hydraulic fluid as a lubricant • soak them in clean fluid before installation. 12 Fit the cups to the pistons, ensuring that they are the correct way round. Use only your fingers (no tools) to manipulate the cups into position. 13 Fit the first piston to the cylinder, taking care not to distort the cup. If the original pistons are being re-used, ihe marks
made on
dismantling should be used to ensure that the pistons are refitted to their original bores, 14 Refit the spring and the second pfston. 15 Apply a smear of rubber grease to Ihe exposed end of each piston and to the dust cover sealing lips, then fit Ihe dust covers to each end of the wheel cylinder.
Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearirg in mind the following points: a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake shoes as desenbod
In
Section 5. and refit the brake drum
as
described in Section 6. c) Before refitting the roadwheel
and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, remove the polythene from the fluid reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic
system
as described in Section f
1.
Note that if
nc
other part of the system has been disturbed, it should only bo necessary
to
bleed the relevant rear circuit.
8 Stop-light switch • & adjustment, removal J? and refitting
Adjustment 1 The switch plunger operates on a ratchet 2 If adjustment Is required, pull the plunge fully out - (he 9witch then sell-adjusts as the brake pedal Is applied and released.
Removal 3 Ensure that the ignition Is switched to OfF. 4 For Improved access, remove the driver's side lower facia panel, as described in Chapter 11 (see Illustration). 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks

Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^

Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^

FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^

Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^

Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37

Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.

A


Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...

Suspension and steering 10*3
2.10 Using a slide hammer to extract the hub 2.11 Wheel bearing components / Hub carrier 2 Wheel bearing 3 Circlip
Owners wishing to attempt the work them-
selves
should proceed as follows. 10 Mount tho hub carrier firmly In a bench vice. Attach a slide hammer to the hub flange and extract the hub. together with the inner bearing race, If it has remained attached to the hub. Unbolt and remove the heat shield
(see
Illustration). 11 Mount the hub carrier horizontally in the rice, then remove tho bearing retaining circlip. Using a suitable length of tubing as a drift, drive Ihe bearing outer race from the carrier (see Illustration). Note that a flange on the outboard side of the carrier means that the bearing can only be driven out in one direction. 12 Support the inner bearing race, if it has remained attached to the hub, then press or drive the hub from the race. Alternatively, pull trie bearing race from the hub using a suitable Iw or three-legged puller. 13 Before Installing the new bearing, thoroughly clean the bearing location in the tub carrier. U Fit the new bearing from the Inboard side the hub: press or drive the bearing into position, applying pressure only to the bearing oiler race. Oo not lubricate the mating surface
ol the
bearing In an attempt to ease installation. 15 Fit the bearing retaining circlip to its 700ve in the hub carrier, then refit the heat
shield and tighten the retaining screw securely. 16 Support the outer face of the hub carrier across the jaws of a bench vice. 17 Carefully press or draw the hub into the bearing, noting that the bearing inner race must be supported during Ihis operation, to prevent It from being separated from the outer race. This can be achieved using a suitable socket, threaded rod, washers and a length of bar (see Illustration). 18 On completion, check that the hub rotates freely in the hub carrier without resistance or roughness.
2.17 Typical method of drawing the hub into the wheel bearing using improvised tools
Refitting 19 Reconnect the outboard end of the drive-shaft to the hub as described In Chapter 8. Ensure that the driveshaft nut is tightened to the correct torque and adequately staked. Ideally, for safety reasons due to the very high torque of the driveshaft nut, carry out final tightening and staking of the nut after refitting the roadwheel and lowering the car to the ground. 20 Reconnect the hub carrier to the lower arm balljoint, then fit a new clamp bolt nut. Tighten tho nut to the specified torque. 21 Engage the hub carrier with the suspension strut, then refit the securing bolts and nuts, tightening them to the specified torque. 22 Reconnect the steering track-rod balljoint to the hub carrier steering arm. Use a new nut and tighten it to the specified torque. 23 Refer to Chapter 9 and refit the brake disc and caliper. 24 Where applicable, fit the ABS wheel sensor into its mounting hole and tighten the securing screw. 25 Refit the roadwheel, and tower the vehicle to the ground. 26 Have the front wheel alignment checked by a Fiat dealer or a tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity.

Suspension and steering 10*5
3,9s Withdraw the coll spring, complete with the compressors ... 3.9b ... then withdraw the dust cover and bump rubber 3.9c Fully dismantled strut
10 With the strut assembly now dismantled, examine all the components tor wear, damage or deformation. Check the rubber com-ponents for deterioration. Renew any of the components as necessary. 11 Examine tho damper for signs of fluid teakage. Check the damper rod for signs of pitting along its entire length, and check the stjul body for signs of damage. White holding fc
in an
upright position, test the operation of
Ihe
stmt by moving Ihe damper rod through a fut stroke, and then through short strokes of
SO
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance Id should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any wsible sign of wear or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary. Note that the damper cannot be renewed independently, and if leakage, damage or corrosion Is evident, the complete strut/damper assembly must be renewed {in which case, the spring, upper mounting components, bushes, and associated components can be transferred to
Ihe
new strut). 12 If any doubt exists about the condition of
Ihe
coil spring, carefully remove the spring compressors, and check the spring for distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there isany doubt about its condition. a Warning: Coil springs are /j\ classified by their height when '
11
• undor load • this Is indicatod by a
coloured
paint marking on the side of the
coll windings (either green or yellow). All coll springs fitted to tho vehicle must be of the same classification to ensure the correct ride height. 13 Clamp the strut body in a vice, as dunng dismantling, then refit the lower spring seat rubber (where fitted), dust cover and bump rubber. 14 Ensure that the coil spring is compressed sufficiently to enable the upper mounting components to be fitted, then fit the spring over the damper rod. ensuring that the lower end of the spring is correctly located In the recess on the lower spring seat (soe illustration). 15 Refit the upper spring seat and upper mounting plate ensuring that the top end of
the spring is correctly located on the upper spring seat. Note that when the strut is reassembled, the orientation marking on the upper rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the metal section of the upper mounting plate as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting (see illustration). 10 Fit the new damper rod top nut together with its washer and bush, then tighten the nut to the specified torque, counterholding the damper rod in a manner similar to that used during dismantling. Note that a suitable crows-foot adapter will be required to tighten the damper rod top nut to the specified torque. 17 Remove the spring compressors. Where applicable, refit the protective plastic cap over the damper rod top nut.
Refitting 18 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position under the wheel arch, passing the locating stud clip through the holes in the body turret. Note that when the strut is refitted, the orientation marking on the upper mounting plate rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the vehicle as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting • refer to illustration 3.15. Fit the upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 19 Engage Ihe lower end of the strut with the
3.14 Ensure that the lower end of the spring is correctly located in the recess (arrowed) on the lower spring seat
3.15 Correct positioning of the suspension strut upper mounting components A Left hand mounting for vehicles with manual steering B Left hand mounting tor vehicles with power-assisted steering C To front of vehicle O Orientation marking 3.18 Fit the strut upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque

Suspension and steering 10*6
hub earner, then fit the securing bolts and nuts, noting that the nuts fit on the rear side of the strut, and tighten to the specified torque (see illustrations). 20 Refit the brake fluid line to the bracket on Ihe base of the strut. 21 Where applicable, press the ABS wheel sensor winng into its retaining bracket. 22 Refit the roadwheel. and lower the vehicle to the ground.
4 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 3.19a Fit the securing bolts, noting that the nuts fit on the rear side of the strut...
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on either side ot Ihe vehicle. Similarly, unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension sub-frame (see illust-rations). Allow the ends of the anti-roll bar to pivot away from the suspension lower arms. 3 With reference to Section 2, unscrew Ihe nut. withdraw the clamp bolt and lever the end of the suspension lower arm down to release it from the base of the hub carrier.
4.2s Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the anti-roll bar mountings to tho suspension lower arms...
4 Unscrow the two bolts and detach the suspension arm rear mounting bracket from the subframe (see Illustration). 5 Slacken and remove the nut from the through-bolt at the lower arm front mounting (seo illustration). Withdraw the bolt. 6 Withdraw Ihe suspension lower arm from under the vehicle. 7 With the lower arm removed, examine the lower arm Itself, and the mounting bushes, for wear, cracks or damage. S Check the balljoint for wear, excessive play, or stiffness. Also check Ihe balljoint dust boot for cracks or damage. 9 The mounting bushes and balljoint assembly are integral with the lower arm. and cannot be renewed independently. If either the bushes or the balljoint are worn or damaged, the complete lower arm assembly must be renewed.
Refitting Caution: Final tightening of all fixings must be carried out with the vehicle resting on Its wheels, or damage to the rubbor bushes will result 10 Offer the suspension arm up lo Its mountings. Fit the through-bolt to the front mounting bracket and engage it with the suspension arm bush. Fit Ihe securing nut. but do not fully tighten it at this stage.
. and tho suspension sub-frame (arrowed) 4.4 Unscrew the two bolts (arrowed) and detaoh the suspension arm rear mounting bracket from the subframe
3.19b ... and tighten them to the specified torque
11 Bolt Ihe rear mounting bracket to the subframe, but do not fully tighten the bolts a! this stage, 12 Engage the lower arm balljoint svith ifia hub carrier, then refii the balljoint clamp boll and nut. Do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 13 Raise the anti-roll bar into position. Itan bolt the mounting brackets to the subfrarra The anti-roll bar must be pre-loaded before lis outer mounting brackets can be bolted to the suspension arms. Do this by raising tha erds of the anti-roll bar with a trolley jack and holding them in this position whilst the bracket mounting bolts are inserted and hand tightened. Do not fully tighten the bolls at trts stage, line up the holes at the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension lower arm. 14 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehrcfe to the ground. 15 Make sure that the vehicle is parked on level ground, then release the handbrake. Red the vehicle backwards and forwards, arc bounce the front of the vehicle to settle the suspension components. 16 Chock the wheels, then tighten all lit* anti-roll bar and suspension arm mounting nuts and bolts to the specified torque 17 On completion the front wheel alignment should be chocked by a Fiat dealer.
4.5 Slacken and romove tho nut (arrowed! from the through-bolt at the lower arm front mounting

Suspension and steering
10*195

5 Front suspension >,•> tower arm balljoint -renewal ^
The balljoint is integral with the suspension ower arm (see Illustration). If the balljoint is worn or damaged, the complete lower arm oust be renewed as described In Section 4.
6 Front suspension ^ anti-roll bar -
removal and refitting s^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands •we Jacking and vehicle support). If required, wove the relevant roadwheels. 2 Refer to the Chapter 4D and unbolt the hnt section of the exhaust pipe. 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings to the suspension lower arms on ether side of the vehicle. Similarly, unscrew
ine
bolts securing the anti-roll bar mountings lo the suspension sub-frame (refer to the Derations in Section 4). 4 lower the anti-roll bar away from the underside of the vehicle. 5 Inspect the rubber bushes for cracks or ietertoratlon, If renewal Is necessary, slide the dd bushes from the bar, and fit the now items, using soapy water as a lubricant. Do rot apply grease or oil as this will attack the •ifiber. 9 Check the anti-roll bar for signs of damage, war or serious corrosion. Refitting 7 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing In
mnd
the following points: sj
D'rw
up the holes af the ends of the anti-roll bar with those on the suspension iov/erarm. til
Tighten
all fixings to the specified torque, but do not do this until the vehicle is resting on its roadwheels, and the suspension has been settled, or damage to the bushes may result.
7.5 Slacken and remove the rear hub nut
5.1 Front suspension lower arm balljoint
7 Rear hub bearings -renewal
Note: 77ie bearing will be destroyed during the removal operation, and a new rear hub/ bearing assembly must be used on refitting -the old hub cannot be re-used. A new rear hub nut must be used on refitting. 1 The rear hub bearings are integral with the hubs themselves, and cannot be renewed separately, tf the bearings require renewal, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support securely on axle slands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel. 3 Remove the brake drum as described In Chapter 9. Do not depress the brake pedal whilst the brake drum is removed. 4 Prise the dust cap from the hub. using a mallet and punch. 5 Slacken and remove the hub nut and recover the washer/spacers (see illustration). Caution: The nut Is tightened to a very high torque. Use a long extension bar to remove the nut and ensure that you have access to torque wrench capable of tightening the new nut to the speclfiod torque setting, before removing the existing nut 6 Withdraw Ihe hub and bearing assembly from the stub axle, and recover the inner washer. Discard the hub nut - a new one must be used on refitting.
1
8.3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining bolt (arrowed)
7 Thoroughly clean tho stub axle, then slide the inner washer and new hub assembly into position. 8 Fit the outer washer, then thread a new hub nut onto the end of the stub axle by hand - do not fully tighten the nut at this stage. 9 Refit the brake drum (Chapter 9). 10 Tighten the hub nut to the specified torque, then check that the hub spins smoothly and freely. Carefully tap the dust cap into position over the nut. 11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the road-wheel bolts to the specified torque.
8 Rear suspension components -removal, overhaul and refitting ^
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant rear roadwheel.
Damper
Removal 2 Using a trolley jack positioned under the trailing arm, raise the trailing arm to take the strain from the damper. 3 Slacken and withdraw the damper lower retaining boll (see Illustration). 4 Lower the jack and allow the damper to separate from the trailing arm. Take care to avoid displacing the coil spring. 5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (see illustration). 6 Lower the damper away from the suspension subframe. Refitting 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the damper upper and lower retaining bolts to the specified torque, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the road-wheels • this prevents the damper bushes from being strained.
Coil spring
Removal 8 With reference to the previous sub-Section.
8.5 Slacken and withdraw the damper upper retaining bolt (arrowed)

Suspension and steering 10*8
9.1 Prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub unbolt the lower end of the damper from the trailing arm. 9 Lower the trailing arm gradually using a trolley jack, until the coil spring Is released from its lower seat on the trailing arm and its upper seat on the subframe. Make a note of the orientation of the coll spring, to aid correct refitting later. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, lighten the damper lower retaining bolt to the specified torque. Trailing arm Note: The rear stub axles are integral with the trailing arm assemblies and cannot be renewed separately. Removal 11 With reference to Chapter 9. carry out the following: a) Remove the brake drum, shoes and adjuster assembly. b) Unbolt the brake hose union from the
rear
of the wheel cylinder. c) Unbolt the brake pipe mounting bracket from the trailing arm. 12 Refer to Section 7 and remove The rear hub and beanng assembly. 13 With reference to the relevant sub-Section, unbolt the lower end of Ihe damper from the trailing arm. 14 Raise the trailing arm using a trolley jack so that the coll spring Is compressed, then slacken and withdraw the trailing arm front mounting bolL 15 With reference to the previous sub-Section, gradually lower the trailing arm using a trolley lack and remove the coll spring. 16 Allow Ihe trailing arm to hang down, then pull the leading edge of the arm down from its mounting bracket. Refitting 17 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Tighten all suspension fixings to the specified torque settings, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the roadwheeis -this prevents the damper and trailing arm bushes from being strained. 18 On completion, bleed the brake hydraulic system and adjust the operation of the handbrake, with reference to Chapter 9.
9.2 Unplug the wiring from the centre pad at the connector(s)
9 Steering wheel - % removal and refitting ^
Note: This procedure does not apply to vehicles fitted with an airbag A Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongly advisod to entrust to an authorised Fiat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbeg system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage. In addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check thet the alrbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
Removal 1 Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub. Use the blade of a screwdriver, padded with PVC tape to protect the steering wheel (see illustration) 2 Unplug the horn and (where applicable) radio/cassette control switch wiring from the centre pad at the connectors) (see illustration) 3 Turn the steering wheel to its centre position, so that the roadwheeis are pointing straight ahead. 4 Make alignment marks between the steering wheel and the end of the steering column shaft, to aid correct refitting later, 5 Relieve the staking and then slacken and remove tne steenng wheel securing nut (see
9.5 Slacken and remove the steering wheel securing nut Illustration). Discard the nut as a new item must used on refitting. 6 Lift the steering wheel off the column splines. If it is tight, tap il near the centre, usrg the palm of your hand, or twist it from
side to
side, whilst pulling upwards to release il ton the shaft splines. If the wheel is particular tight, a suitable puller should be used.
Refitting 7 Before commencing refitting, lightly eca. Ihe surfaces of the direction indicator cancelling mechanism with grease. 8 Refitting is a reversal of ren>oval.
bearing a
mind the following points: a) Use a new steering wheel
securing not
and tighten it to the specified
torque.
Ensure that its outer collar
Is adequate^
staked to the column shaft
using a
hammer and punch (see Illustrations). b) Ensure that the direction Indicator
swiith
is in the central (cancelled/off)
position,
otherv/ise the sivitch may be damaged X the wheel Is refitted. c) Align the marks made on the
wheel and
Ihe steering column shaft during removeI 9 Note that if necessary, the position of tf* steering wheel on the column shaft cant* | altered in order to centralise the wheel (enstn that the front roadwheeis aro pointing
In the
straight-ahead position), by moving the vMti the required number of splines on the
sfcafc
Fine adjustment can be carried out by adjusting the length of both track-rwa simultaneously, but this operation is best entrusted to a Rat dealer or tyre specialist
9.8a Fit a new steering wheet securing nut... 9.3b ... and stake it to the steering column shaft using o hammer and punch

10*10 Suspension and steering
12.8 Slacken and remove the two steering goar-to-subirame bolts (arrowed) 8 Disconnect the universal joint at the base of the steering column from the steering gear pinion. Note the position of tho safety clip • this must be refitted In the same position on reassembly. 9 Remove Ihe steering column from the vehicle.
Overhaul 10 The hoight adjustment mechanism can be removed by removing the nut from the end of the pivot shaft and withdrawing it. 11 The upper and lower bushes are held in position by staking at the ends of the column tube. Relieve the staking using a mallet and punch to extract the bushes. 12 Check for excessive radial and axial play In the universal joints at both ends of the lower steering column. The lower section of the steering column may be renewed separately if required, by slackening the clamp bolt and detaching It from the upper section. 13 If the vehicle has been Involved in an accident, check for deformation In all ol the steering column components, particularly the mounting bracket and centre tube. Renew as required.
Refitting 14 Refitting the steering column is by following the removal procedure in reverse. Tighten all fixings to Ihe specified torque setting.
12 ManuaJ steering fk gear assembly -removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front road wheels. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reference to Section 11. slacken the clamp boil at the base of steering column lower universal |o!nt, to separate it rrom the steering gear pinion.
12.9 Unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (arrowed) 4 Remove the safety clip from the steering gear pinion, noting Its fitted position to aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and dotach the track* rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, using a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the clips and detach the gear selection cable and the reverse gear inhibitor cable from the steenng gear. 7 Delach the gear selector rod from the top of the steering gear, 8 Slacken and remove the two steering gear-to-subframe bolts (see Illustration) 9 Support the underside of the transmission using a trolley jack, then unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (see illustration) 10 With reference to Chapter 4D. unbolt the front section of the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter. 11 Unclip the plastic steenng gear pinion cup from ihe bulkhead. 12 Withdraw the steenng gear through the wheel arch.
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following: a) Tighten all fixings lo the specified torque settings. b) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest opportunity by a Fiat dealer or a tyro specialist.
13.10 Disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes (arrowed) from the power steering gear
13 Power steering * gear assembly - J removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply tN handbrake, then jack up the front ot thi vehicle and support securely on axle standi (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front roadwheels to improve access. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In tto Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reforence to Section 11, slacken ihe clamp bolt at the base of steering cohimn lower universal joint, to separate ll from Ihe steering gear pinion. 4 Remove the safety clip from the steenng gear pinion, noting its fitted position lo aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound Insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and detach the track-rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, usty a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, ranwvi the clips and detach the power steering fluid pipe from the steering gear casing. 7 With reference to Chapter 40, unboil lbs front section of the exhaust pipe from the manifold and catalytic converter/intermediate silencer (as applicable). 8 Refer to Chaptor 7A and disconnect the gear selector rod from the relay rod Disconnect the relay rod from the mounting on the top of the steering gear casing. 9 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or
an
old poultry baster. 10 Slacken the unions and disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes from the power steering gear. Be prepared for an amount
erf
fluid loss - position a container underneath the unions and pad the surrounding area wth absorbent rags (see Illustration). 11 Slacken and remove the two sleeting gear-to-subframe bolts (see illustrations). 12 Support the engine and tronsmission assembly using either blocks of wood positioned under the transmission casing,
or a
lifting beam positioned across the engine
bay

13.11a Slacken and remove the right-hand...