wiring FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

7B*6 Automatic transmission
Gear selector cable -adjustment
1 Remove the battery and tray as described In Chapter 5A for access to the transmission. 2 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on Ihe transmission. 3 Move the selector fever inside the vehicle to the N (Neutral) position, then move the lever on the transmission to Its central (Neutral) position. Locate the cable end over the lever. If the cable end fitting does not line up exactly with the hole In Ihe lever, loosen the adjustment nut and reposition the end fitting. 4 With the adjustment correct reconnect tha cable to the lever, then move the selector lever to the P (Park) position. Check that the lever on the transmission has also moved to the P position. 6 Refit the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A. 6 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation in all selector lever positions.
9 Gear selector cable -removal and refitting at
7 Inside the vehicle disconnect the selector cable from the bottom of the selector lever (hen remove it from the support bracket, a Withdraw the cable into the engine compartment, and remove it.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust the cable as described in Section 8. 10 Check that It is only possible to start the engine in positions P and N. Reposition the selector lever switch If necessary. 11 Road test the vehicle, and check for correct operation In ell selector lever positions.
10 Transmission oil pump - & mnvtiifll rAtiMlitA removal a/id refitting
Removal 1 Using an Allen key. unscrew the screw and remove the selector lever knob from the lever. 2 Remove the oddment tray and the ashtray. 3 Remove the screws and withdraw the centre console and selector mechanism cover. 4 Unscrew the mounting screws, slightly lift the centre console, then disconnect the wiring and remove the console, 5 Remove the battery and tray as described in Chapter 5A for access to the transmission, 6 Disconnect the selector cable from the lever on the transmission.
Removal 1 Apply the handbrake, then lack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the left-hand wheel. 2 Unscrew the screws and remove the wheel arch liner. 3 Working through the left-hand wheel arch, remove Ihe three bolts which secure the oil pump. 4 Attach a slide hammer to the oil pump, using the two tapped holes provided. Withdraw the pump using the slide hammer. Be prepared for some oil spillage. Recover the gasket end O-ring (see illustrations). 5 If the pump is defective, it must be renewed; no spares are available.
Refitting 6 Before refitting Ihe oil pump, clean Ihe mating surfaces of the transmission and pump. 7 Rt the oil pump, U9ing a new gasket and a new O-ring. Secure the pump with the three bolts.
8 Refit the wheel arch liner, then refit tto wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. 9 Check the transmission fluid level » described earlier in this Section, and top-upif necessary.
11 Accelerator pedal & mfcro-Bwftcb(es) -checking
and
adjustment ^
1 Correct adjustment of the micro-awtlch which senses the accelerator pedal position s essential for correct operation of the clutch.
A
quick check can be made by listening for the switch clicking as the accelerator a depressed. For an accurate check, proceed as follows. 2 Disconnect Ihe mlcroswitch wiring connector (nside the vehicle. Connect a continuity tester across the terminals of the switch, located at the top of (he pedal box (see Illustration}. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting as described in Chapter 4A. 4 With the accelerator pedal releassd, th« switch must be closed (zero resistance). Slowty depress the pedal, and check that the switch opens when the throttle valve on the throttle housing is 30° open. This will occur when the pedal has travelled between 3 and 7 mm. Adjust the switch position if necessary. 5 If the switch is permanently open or permanently closed, and adjustment makes no difference, renew ft. 6 Remake the original wiring connections on completion,
12 Automatic transmission -overhaul
Apart from the operations described earlier in this Section, transmission overhaul should be entrusted to a Rat dealer or transmission specialist.
10.4a Using a slide hammer to remove the oil pump from the transmission 10.4b Automatic transmission oil pump O-dng (1), housing (2) and gasket (3) 11.2 Continuity tester connected ecross the accelerator pedal micro-switch

9*2 Braking system
2.3a Release tho locking clip ...
1 General information
The braking system is of the vacuum servo-assisted. dual-circuit hydraulic type. The arrangement of Ihe hydraulic system is such that each circuit operates one front ond ono rear brake from a tandem master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, both circuits operate In unison However, in the event of hydraulic failure in one circuit, lull braking force will still be available at two diagonally-opposite wheels. All models covered in this manual are fitted with front disc brakes and rear drum brakes. The front disc brakes are aotuated by single-piston sliding lype calipers, which ensure lhat equal pressure is applied to each brake pad. The rear drum brakes incorporate leading and trailing shoes, which are actuated by twin-piston wheel cylinders. A self-adjust mechanism is incorporated, to automatically compensate for brako shoe wear. As the brake shoe linings wear, the footbrnke operation automatically operates the adjuster mechanism, which effectively lengthens the shoe strut and repositions the brake shoes, to remove the llning-to-drum clearance. The mechanical handbrake linkage operates the brake shoos via a lever attached to the trailing brake shoe.
2.3b ... and remove the pad wear indicator wiring and brake fluid line from the suspension strut Load sensitive proportioning valves operate on the rear brake hydraulic circuits, to prevent the possibility of the rear wheels locking before the front wheels under heavy braking. Note: When servicing any part of the system, work carefully and methodically; also observe scmpulous cleanliness when overhauling any part of the hydraulic sysiem. Always renew components (in axle sets, where applicable) if In doubt about their condition, and use only genuine Fiat replacement parts, or at least those of known good quality. Note the warnings given in Safety first and at relevant points in this Chapter concerning fhe dangers of asoestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Models with anti-lock braking system (ABS) Available as an option on certain models, the anti-lock braking system prevents skidding which not only optimises stopping distances but allows full steering control to be maintained under maximum braking. By electronically monitoring the speed of each roadwheel in relation to the other wneete, Ihe system can detect when a wheel is about to lock-up, before control is actually lost. The brake fluid pressure applied to that wheel's brake caliper is then decreased and restored (or modulated) several times a second until control
£s
regained. The system components comprise an Electronic Control Unit (ECU), four wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic unit, brake lines and dashboard mounted warning lamps.
The hydraulic unit incorporates a tandem master cylinder, a valve block which modulates the pressure in the brake hydrauli: circuits during ABS operation, an accumulator which provides a supply of highly pressursed brake fluid, a hydraulic pump to charge Ihe accumulator and an integral electronic control unit (ECU). The four wheel sensors are mounted on the wheel hubs. The ECU uses the signals produced by the sensors to calculate Ihe rotational speed of each wheel, The ECU has a self-diagnostic capability and will inhibit the operation of the ABS il a fault is detected, lighting the dashboard mounted warning lamp. The braking system will then revert lo conventional. non-ABS operation. II the nature of the laull ie not immediately obvious upon inspection, the vehicle must be taken to a Fiat dealer, who will have the diagnostic equipment
required
lo interrogate the ABS ECU electronically and pin-point the problem
2 Front brake pads - & renewal S

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Warning: Renew BOTH sets ol front brake pads at the same
time
- NEVER renew the pads on
only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result

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Warning: Note that the dust created by wear of the pads
may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. Never blow It out with compressed air, and don't inhale any of
it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petrol or petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts; use proprietary braks cleaner or methylated spirit only. 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely
on
axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle supporti. Remove the front roadwheeis. 2 Wording on one side of the vehicle, puth the caliper piston into its bore by pulling the caliper outwards. If necessary, press the piston back into its bore using a large G-clamp or a piston retraction tool. Keep a careful eye on the level of brake llufd in Ihe I reservoir as you do this - ensure that the
level
I does not rise above the MAX marking. 3 Whore applicable, release the locking dp and remove the pad wear indicator
wiring end
brake fluid line from the bracket at Ihe
base of
the suspension strut (see illustrations).
Petrol models without ABS 4 Remove the locking clip and exlracl the lower guide pin from the caliper (see illustrations) 5 Pivot the caliper body upwards and support In position with a length of wire or a cabie-fc. Avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
2,4a Remove the locking clip ... 2.4b ... and extract the lower guide pin from the caliper (petrol models without ABS)

Braking system 9®3
2.6a Unscrew the upper...
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 6 Unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide cin bolts, using a slim open-ended spanner to counterhold the head of the guide pin (see illustrations). Discard the guide pin bolts -new items must be fitted on reassembly. 7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly (see illustration). Suspend it from a suitable point on the suspension using a length of wire or 8 cable-tie, to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
All models Caution: Do not depress the brake pedal until the caliper is refitted, or the piston will
be
pushed out of Its bore. 8 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper bracket (see illustrations). 9 Measure the thickness of each brake pad's foclion material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.

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Warning: Do not be tempted to swap brake pads over to compensate for uneven wear. 10 if the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar and brake cleaning fluid. Pay particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Where applicable, clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded panicles of dirt
or
debris. 11 Clean the surfaces of the brake pad contact points In the caliper body and caliper mounting bracket. 12 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the giide pins can slide freely in the caliper body, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters
are
undamaged. Brush the dust and din from
the
caliper and piston, but do not inhale it. as
4 may
contain asbestos. 13 Inspect the dust seal and the area around Ihe piston for signs of damage, corrosion or
models with ABS and diesel models)
brake fluid leaks. If evident, refer to Section 3 and overhaul the caliper assembly. 14 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder, to allow for the extra depth of the friction material. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not oeen overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off. A Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 15 Apply a little high temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces of the pad backing plates: take great care not to allow any grease onto the pad friction linings. Similarly, apply brake grease to the pad contact points on the caliper bracket - again take care not to apply excess grease, which may contaminate the pads. 16 Place the brake pads in position on the caliper bracket, with the friction material facing the surfaces of the brake disc. Feed the wear indicator cable through the caliper body aperture.
Petrol models without ABS 17 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the guide pin and clip.
2.7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 18 Fit the caliper body in position on the caliper bracket, then fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
AH models 19 Check that the caliper body can slide freely on the guide pins. Ensure that the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted or kinked In any way. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the hose does not chafe against the suspension or steering gear. 20 Where applicable, reconnect the pad wear indicator wiring and press it into the retaining clips on the suspension. 21 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front caliper. 22 With both sets of front brake pads fitted, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal pedal pressure is restored. Any sponginess felt when depressing the pedal is most probably due to air trapped inside the hydraulic system - refer to Section 11 and bleed the braking system before progressing any further. 23 Refit the roadwheels. and lower the vehicle to the ground. 24 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks. 25 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly,
2.8a Withdraw the outboard... 2.8b ... and inboard brake pads from the caliper bracket

9*8 Braking system
6 Carefully examine the Inside of tho drum. Light scoring of the friction surface is normal, but if heavy scoring Is found, the drum must be renewed. 7 It is usual to find a lip on the dmm's inboard edge which consists of a mixture of rust and brake dust: this should be carefully scraped away, to leave a smooth surface which can be polished with fine (120 to 150-grade) emery paper. If, however, the tip is due to the friction surface being recessed by excessive wear, then the drum must be renewed. 6 If the drum Is thought to be excessively worn, or oval, its internal diameter must be measured at several points using an internal micrometer. Take measurements In pairs, the second at right-angles to the first, and compare the two, to check for signs of ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the dium to beyond the specified maximum diameter, it may be possible to have the drum refinished by skimming or grinding; if this is not possible, Ihe drums on both sides must be renewed. Note that if the drum is to be skimmed, BOTH drums must be refinished. to maintain a consistent Internal diameter on both sides.
Refitting 9 II a new brake drum is to be Installed, use a suitable solvent to remove any preservative coating thai may have been applied to its internal fnction surfaces. Note that it may also be necessary to shorten the adjuster strut length, by rotating the sedated strut wheel, lo allow Ihe drum lo poss over the brake shoes • see Section S for details. 10 II tho original dfum is being refitted, align the marks made on the drum and hub before removal, then lit the drum over the hub. Refit the locating studs and tighten them to the specified torque. 11 Depress the footbrake repeatedly to expand the brake shoes against the drum, and ensure that normal pedal pressure Is restored. 12 Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake cable as described In Section 9. 13 Refit tho roadwheels, and lower the vehicle to the ground.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -removal, overhaul and refitting jS

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Warning: Before starting work, refer to the warnings at tho beginning of Sections 2 and 11 concerning the dangers ot handling asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the brake drum fsee Section 6). 2 Remove the brake shoes (see Section 5). 3 To minimise fluid loss during the following operations, remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. then tighten it down onto a piece of polythene, lo obtain an airtight seal.
the hydraulic pipe from the rear of the wheel cylinder 4 Clean the brake backplate around Ihe wheel cylinder mounting boits and the hydraulic pipe union, then unscrew the union nut and disconnect Ihe hydraulic pipe (see illustration). Cover the open ends of the pipe and the master cylinder to prevent dirt ingress, 5 Remove the securing bolts, then withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate (soe Illustration).
Overhaul Note: Before commencing woric, ensure that the appropriate wheel cylinder overhaul kit is obtained. 6 Clean tho assembly thoroughly, using only methylated spirit or clean brake fluid, 7 Peel off both rubber dust covers, then use paint or similar to mark one ot the pistons so that the pistons are not interchanged on reassembly. 8 Withdraw both pistons and tho spring. 9 Discard the rubber piston cups and the dust covers. These components should be renewed as a matter of course, and are available 3s part of an overhaul kit, which also Includes the bleed nipple dust cap. 10 Check the condition of the cylinder bore and the pistons - the surfaces must be perfect and free from scratches, scoring and corrosion, It is advisable to renew the complete wheel cylinder if there is any doubt as to the condition ot the cylinder bore or pistons. 11 Ensure thai all components are clean and dry. The pistons, spring and cups should be
8.4 Location of brake tight switch-LHD model shown
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the backplate fitted wet, using hydraulic fluid as a lubricant • soak them in clean fluid before installation. 12 Fit the cups to the pistons, ensuring that they are the correct way round. Use only your fingers (no tools) to manipulate the cups into position. 13 Fit the first piston to the cylinder, taking care not to distort the cup. If the original pistons are being re-used, ihe marks
made on
dismantling should be used to ensure that the pistons are refitted to their original bores, 14 Refit the spring and the second pfston. 15 Apply a smear of rubber grease to Ihe exposed end of each piston and to the dust cover sealing lips, then fit Ihe dust covers to each end of the wheel cylinder.
Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearirg in mind the following points: a) Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake shoes as desenbod
In
Section 5. and refit the brake drum
as
described in Section 6. c) Before refitting the roadwheel
and
lowering the vehicle to the ground, remove the polythene from the fluid reservoir, and bleed the hydraulic
system
as described in Section f
1.
Note that if
nc
other part of the system has been disturbed, it should only bo necessary
to
bleed the relevant rear circuit.
8 Stop-light switch • & adjustment, removal J? and refitting
Adjustment 1 The switch plunger operates on a ratchet 2 If adjustment Is required, pull the plunge fully out - (he 9witch then sell-adjusts as the brake pedal Is applied and released.
Removal 3 Ensure that the ignition Is switched to OfF. 4 For Improved access, remove the driver's side lower facia panel, as described in Chapter 11 (see Illustration). 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch.

Braking system 9®9
6.8 Brake light switch assembly f Hexagonal' 3 Spacer section 4 Mounting bracket 2 Bush S Locating lug 6 Twist the switch anti-clockwise through about half a turn, and withdraw the switch from the pedal bracket. Note the position of the spacer and fitting bush.
10.3a Prise the bung (arrowed) from the access hatch in the rear of the relevant brake backplate
10.3b Unhook the cable end from the brake shoe lever (arrowed)
Refitting 7 Depress the brake pedal and hold it in this position. 8 Fit the bush and spacer over the end of the switch, then Insert the switch Into its mounting bracket. Rotate the switch body clockwise through 60° until the locating lug is felt to engage in its recess (seo illustration). 9 Release the brake pedal and allow It to rest against the switch spacer tab - this adjusts the position of the switch body Inside Ihe bush. 10 Now depress the brake pedal again - this has the effect of breaking off the spacer tab and fixes the position of the switch Inside the bush. 11 Restore Ihe wiring at the connector, then refit the facia lower trim panel. 12 Switch on the ignition and test the operation of the brake lights.
9 Handbrake - ^ checking and adjustment
Checking 1 Apply the handbrake by pulling it through three to four clicks of the ratchet mechanism and check that this locks the rear wheels, holding the vehicle stationary on an incline. In this position, there should be sufficient reserve travel in the handbrake lever to allow for brako shoe wear and cable stretching. If not. Ihe handbrake mechanism Is need of adjustment.
Adjustment 2 Remove the securing screws and lift off the handbrake lever trim cover - refer to Chapter 11. Section 19. for details. 3 Pull the handbrake lever through three clicks of the ratchet mechanism and leave it in this position. 4 The adjustment mechanism is underneath the handbrake lever. Hold the locknut with a ring spanner, then rotate the adjustment screw through one turn anticlockwise, so that the adjustment mechanism tensions the handbrake cable draw bar (see illustration). 5 Release the handbrake lever, then re-apply
10.5a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) securing the handbrake cable bracket to the suspension lower arm
the handbrake it and check the operation of the handbrake as described in paragraph 1. Repeat the adjustment procedure as necessary. 6 Chock the front wheels then |ack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Release the handbrake lever and check that the rear wheels are free to rotate v/ithout binding. Re-adjust the cable if the brakes appear to be binding. 7 On completion, tighten the cable locknut and refit the handbrake lever trim cover. Lower the car to the ground.
10 Handbrake cables -removal and refitting
Removal 1 There are two rear handbrake cables, one on each side of the vehicle. To renew either rear cable, proceed as follows. 2 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of tho vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Release the handbrake fully, 3 Working under the rear of the car, prise the bung from the access hatch in the rear of the relevant brake backplato, Using pointed-nose pliers, compress the cable spring and release the cable end from the brake shoe lever (see Illustrations). 4 Extract the handbrake outer cable from the brake backplate. then withdraw the end of the cable from the brake assembly. 5 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the handbrake cable bracket to the suspension lower arm. Release the cable from the clips on the floorpan heatshield (see Illustrations).
10.5b Release the cable from the clips (arrowed) on the floorpsn heatshield

Braking system 9®11
Bleeding • using a one-way valve kit 21 As their name implies, these kits consist ol a length of tubing with a one-way valve Fitted, to prevent expelled air and fluid being drawn back into the system; some kits include a translucent container, which can be positioned so that the air bubbles can be more easily seen flowing from the end of the tube. 22 The kit is connected to the bleed screw, which is then opened. The user returns to the driver's seat, depresses the brake pedal with a smooth, steady stroke, and stowty releases it; this is repeated until the expelled fluid is clear of air bubbles. 23 Note that these kits simplify work so much that It is easy lo forget the master cylinder reservoir fluid level; ensure that this Is maintained at least above the MIN level line at all times.
Bleeding -using a pressure-bleeding kit 24 These kits are usually operated by the reservoir of pressurised air contained in the spare tyre. However, note that it will probably be necessary to reduce the pressure lo a lower level than normal; refer to the instructions supplied with the kit. 2$ By connecting a pressurised, fluid-filled container to the master cylinder reservoir, bleeding can be carried out simply by opening each screw In turn (in the specified sequence), and allowing the fluid to flow out until no more air bubbles can be seen in the expelled fluid. 28 This method has the advantage that the large reservoir of fluid provides an additional safeguard against air being drawn into the system during bleeding. 27 Pressure-bleeding is particularly effective when bleeding 'difficult' systems, or when bleeding the complete system at the time of routine fluid renewal.
All methods 28 When bleeding is complete, and firm pedal feel is restored, wash off any split fluid, lighten the bleed screws securely, and refit their dust caps (where applicable). 29 Check the hydraulic fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, and top-up if necessary. 30 Discard any hydraulic fluid thai has been Wed from the system; it will not be fit for re-use. 91 Check the feel of the brake pedal. If it feels at all spongy, air must still be present in Vie system, and further bleeding is required. Failure to bleed satisfactorily after a reasonable repetition of the bleeding procedure may be due to worn master cylinder seals.
12 Master cylinder- % removal
and
refitting SK

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Warning: 8efore starting work, refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 11 concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal 1 Remove the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap, and syphon the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Note: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as It Is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. Alternatively, open any convenient bleed screw In the system, and gently pump the brake pedal to expel (he fluid through a tube connected to the screw (see Section 11). Disconnect the wiring connector from the brake fiuld level sender unit. 2 Carefully prise the fiuld reservoir from the seals and release it from the top of the master cylinder. 3 Wipe clean Ihe area around the brake pipe unions on the side of the master cylinder, and place absorbent rags beneath the pipe unions to catch any surplus fluid. Make a note of the correct fitted positions of the unions, then unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and master cylinder orifices, to minimise the loss of brake fluid, and to prevent the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any spilt fluid immediately with cold wafer.
A 22.45 to 22.65 mm
Cut the finger tips from an old rubber glove end secure them over the open ends of the brake pipes with elastic bands • this wifi heip to minimise fluid lots and prevent the Ingress of contaminants.
4 Slacken and remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the vacuum servo unit, then withdraw the unit from the engine compartment. 5 Where applicable, recover the seals from the rear of the master cylinder, and discard them; new items must be used on refitting. 8 With the master cylinder removed, check that the distance between the end of the vacuum servo unit pushrod and the master cylinder mating surface is as shown in the diagram. If necessary, the distance may be adjusted by turning the nut at the end of the servo unit pushrod (see illustration).
Refitting 7 Fit new rubber seals and then press the fluid reservoir into the ports at the top of the master cylinder 8 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, and where applicable, fit a new seal between the master cylinder body and the servo. 9 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the
B Adjustment nut

Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.

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Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...

Suspension and steering 10*4
3.2 Release the brake fluid line (and where applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from the strut
3 Front suspension strut -removal, overhaul and refitting *

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Warning: If renewing the Strut damper during overhaul both the left and right hand dampers should be renewed as a pair, to preserve the handling characteristics of the vehicle.
Removal 1 Chock the resr wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the fronl of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant roadwheel. 2 Release the brake fluid line (and wnere
3.3a Remove the two bolts (arrowed)...
applicable, the pad wear/ABS sensor wiring) from Ihe bracket on the base of the strut (see illustration). 3 Remove the two nuts from Ihe bolts securing the lower end of the strut to the hub carrier, noting that the nuls fit on the rear side of the strut (see illustrations). Withdraw the bolts, and support the hub carrier. Discard the bolts and nuts • new ones should be used on refitting. 4 Have an assistant support the strut from underneath the wheel arch then, working In the engine compartment, unscrew the two bolts and release the two stud clips that secure the strut upper mounting plate to the suspension turret. Do not unscrew the centre damper rod nut yet. Release the lower end ol the strut from the hub carrier, then withdraw the assembly from under the wheel arch.
3.7 Fully unsorew and remove tho damper rod top nut 3.3a Withdraw the washer.
3.3b ... and detach the lower end of the strut from the hub carrier
Overhaul Note: Suitable coil spring compressor fools will be required for this operation, and a
new
damper rod top nut must be used on reassembly. 5 Clamp Ihe lower end of Ihe strut in a vice fitted with jaw protectors - take care to avois deforming the mounting bracket at the lower end of the strut. Remove the protective plastic cap from the top of the strut. 6 Fit suitable spring compressors to the coil spring, and compress Ihe spring sutllciently to enable the upper spring seat to be turned by nand.

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Warning: Ensure that the coil spring Is compressed sufficiently to remove all the tension from
tha
upper spring seat, before attempting to remove the damper rod nut. 7 Fully unscrew and remove the damper rod top nut. Countorhofd the domper rod. using
a
suitable Allen key or hex bit. as tho nut * unscrewed • do not allow the rod to rotate inside the damper (see Illustration). Discard the nut • a new one must be used on reassembly. 8 Withdraw tho washer, bush, upper mounting plate and upper spring seat • make a careful note of the order of assembly (see illustrations). 9 Withdraw the spring, complete with the compressors, thon v/ithdraw the dust cover, bump rubber and Ihe lower spring seat rubber (where fitted) (see illustrations).

Suspension and steering 10*8
9.1 Prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub unbolt the lower end of the damper from the trailing arm. 9 Lower the trailing arm gradually using a trolley jack, until the coil spring Is released from its lower seat on the trailing arm and its upper seat on the subframe. Make a note of the orientation of the coll spring, to aid correct refitting later. Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, lighten the damper lower retaining bolt to the specified torque. Trailing arm Note: The rear stub axles are integral with the trailing arm assemblies and cannot be renewed separately. Removal 11 With reference to Chapter 9. carry out the following: a) Remove the brake drum, shoes and adjuster assembly. b) Unbolt the brake hose union from the
rear
of the wheel cylinder. c) Unbolt the brake pipe mounting bracket from the trailing arm. 12 Refer to Section 7 and remove The rear hub and beanng assembly. 13 With reference to the relevant sub-Section, unbolt the lower end of Ihe damper from the trailing arm. 14 Raise the trailing arm using a trolley jack so that the coll spring Is compressed, then slacken and withdraw the trailing arm front mounting bolL 15 With reference to the previous sub-Section, gradually lower the trailing arm using a trolley lack and remove the coll spring. 16 Allow Ihe trailing arm to hang down, then pull the leading edge of the arm down from its mounting bracket. Refitting 17 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Tighten all suspension fixings to the specified torque settings, but delay this operation until the full weight vehicle is resting on the roadwheeis -this prevents the damper and trailing arm bushes from being strained. 18 On completion, bleed the brake hydraulic system and adjust the operation of the handbrake, with reference to Chapter 9.
9.2 Unplug the wiring from the centre pad at the connector(s)
9 Steering wheel - % removal and refitting ^
Note: This procedure does not apply to vehicles fitted with an airbag A Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongly advisod to entrust to an authorised Fiat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbeg system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage. In addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check thet the alrbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
Removal 1 Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then prise the horn centre pad from the steering wheel hub. Use the blade of a screwdriver, padded with PVC tape to protect the steering wheel (see illustration) 2 Unplug the horn and (where applicable) radio/cassette control switch wiring from the centre pad at the connectors) (see illustration) 3 Turn the steering wheel to its centre position, so that the roadwheeis are pointing straight ahead. 4 Make alignment marks between the steering wheel and the end of the steering column shaft, to aid correct refitting later, 5 Relieve the staking and then slacken and remove tne steenng wheel securing nut (see
9.5 Slacken and remove the steering wheel securing nut Illustration). Discard the nut as a new item must used on refitting. 6 Lift the steering wheel off the column splines. If it is tight, tap il near the centre, usrg the palm of your hand, or twist it from
side to
side, whilst pulling upwards to release il ton the shaft splines. If the wheel is particular tight, a suitable puller should be used.
Refitting 7 Before commencing refitting, lightly eca. Ihe surfaces of the direction indicator cancelling mechanism with grease. 8 Refitting is a reversal of ren>oval.
bearing a
mind the following points: a) Use a new steering wheel
securing not
and tighten it to the specified
torque.
Ensure that its outer collar
Is adequate^
staked to the column shaft
using a
hammer and punch (see Illustrations). b) Ensure that the direction Indicator
swiith
is in the central (cancelled/off)
position,
otherv/ise the sivitch may be damaged X the wheel Is refitted. c) Align the marks made on the
wheel and
Ihe steering column shaft during removeI 9 Note that if necessary, the position of tf* steering wheel on the column shaft cant* | altered in order to centralise the wheel (enstn that the front roadwheeis aro pointing
In the
straight-ahead position), by moving the vMti the required number of splines on the
sfcafc
Fine adjustment can be carried out by adjusting the length of both track-rwa simultaneously, but this operation is best entrusted to a Rat dealer or tyre specialist
9.8a Fit a new steering wheet securing nut... 9.3b ... and stake it to the steering column shaft using o hammer and punch

Suspension and steering 10*9
10.3 Unplug the multi-way wiring connector from the rear of tho lock assembly
10 Ignition switch/ steering column lock • ^ removal and refitting ^
Caul/on: The Ignition switch/steering column lock has on integral and-tho ft mechanism. Any attempt to rofafe tho lock shaft using tools (lo without using the correct key) results in the steering column tebg locked and Irreparable damage to the lock mechanism. This renders the vehicle
unusable
until tho lock assembly Is renewed.
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual}. 2 Remove the lower section of the steering column shroud.
11.3a Unscrew the fixings using an Allen key...
f
10.4 On vehicles fitted with a Flat Immobiliser, uncllp the receiver ring from the lock cylinder 3 Unplug the multi-way wiring connector from the rear of the lock assembly (see illustration). 4 On vehicles fitted with a Fiat immobiliser. uncltp the receiver ring from the lock cylinder (see illustration). Insert the key Into the ignition switch and turn it to the ON position. 5 Working underneath the steering column, insert a small fiat bladed screwdriver into the access slot in the base of the lock assembly bracket. Depress Ihe release button and withdraw the lock assembly from Its bracket, complete with the key (see illustrations).
Refitting 6 To refit the lock, first inserl the hey and turn it to the ON position. Depress the release button slide the assembly into the retaining bracket until the release button clicks Into the access slot. 7 Turn the key back to the OFF position, then reconnect the wmng connector. 8 Relit the steering column lower shroud. 9 Reconnect the negative cable to the battery terminal.
11 Steering column - ^ removal, overhaul and refitting jK
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Remove the steenng wheel (Section 9).
10.5a Insert a small, flat-bladed screwdriver into the access slot in the base of the lock assembly bracket
10.5b Depress tho release button and withdraw the lock cylinder
3 Unscrew the fixings using an Allen key and remove the upper and lower halves of the plastic shroud from the steering column (see illustrations) 4 Working as described in Chapter 12. Section 14. remove the column stalk switch assembly, 5 Unplug the wiring from the rear of the ignition switch/column lock at the multi-way connector • refer to Section 10 for details. 6 Working in the drivers footweli. peel back the carpet trim to gam access to the base of the steering column. Slacken the nut and clamp bolt on the lower half of the universal joint (see illustration). 7 Remove Ihe nuts from the four upper steenng column mounting bolts and lower the assembly away from the bulkhead bracket (see illustration).
11.7 Remove the nuts from the four upper steering column mounting bolts (two arrowed, two concealed)
11.3b ... end remove the upper and lower halves of the plastic shroud from the 11-6 Slacken the nut (arrowed) and clamp steering column bolt on the lower half of the universal joint