service indicator FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Roadside repairs 0.9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs Investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
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Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids aro poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of 0 fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park It over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
Antifreeze
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline oeposit like this.
Oil from filter
A leak occurring at a wheel Is almost certainly brake fluid.
Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the drivoshafts.
Power steering fluid
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
When ail else falls, you may llnd yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances. OIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: • Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • Always turn the Ignition key to the ON position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. • Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. • Note that greater-then-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. • On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. • The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. • Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. • Only dnve at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.
Towing
• On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply(see Chapter 7B. Section 1). If In doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. • The front towing eye is supplied as part of the tool kit stored in the luggage compart-ment. To fit the eye pnse out the plastic cover from the front or rear bumper using a screwdriver, then screw the eye onto the threaded pin as tightly as possible.

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Warning: To prevent damage to the catalytic converter, e vehicle must not be push'started, or started by towing, when the engine is at operating temperature. Use jump leads (see Jump starting).

2B*7 DOHC (16-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
35 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut and reposition the tensioner to align the
mobile
indicator with the fixed reference mark
on the
pulley face (see illustration). Hold the
pdley in
this position and tighten the retaining
nut to the
specified torque. 36 Turn the crankshaft through a further two complete turns In the normal direction of rotation. Check that the timing is correct by alining Ihe piston positioning tools and
camshaft
locking tools as described previously. 37 When all is correct, remove the setting rri
locking
tools and refit the sealing plugs to 1ft© cylinder head extension, using new 0-
nr^s if
necessary. Tighten the plugs securely. 38 Refit the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 39 Refit Ihe ECU and secure with Ihe mooning bolts. 40
Renew the
injector O-ring seals, smear them Kith
8 little
Vaseline then locate the injectors and tef rail onto the inlet manifold lower section.
Saute Ihe fuel rail
with the two retaining bolts. 41 Relit the inlet manifold upper section using new sealing O-rlngs If necessary and
sectre
with the two bolts. 42 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the tot injector harness and the intake air temp-erature/pressure sensor, then connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and tha
EVAP
purge valve hose. 43 Reconnect the wiring connectors for the ihrottls potentiometer, idle control stepper motor and coolant temperature sensor. Reconnect the brake servo vacuum hose. 44 Refit and adjust the accelerator cable as described in Chapter 4B. 46 Refit the upper and lower timing belt
covers
together with the TDC sensor wiring. 46 Refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the
three
retaining bolts securely. 47 Refit the air cleaner. Inlet air duct and resonator as described in Chapter 4B. 48
Refit
tha auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described i/t Chapter 1A, then reconnect the battery
S Timing belt tensioner
and
sprockets -
removal
and refitting

Timing
belt tensioner
Removal I
Remove
the timing belt as described in
Section
4. 1 Completely unscrew the tensioner nut and Wiethe tensioner off the mounting stud-Inspection
3 Wipe
the tensioner clean but do not use Kfrents that may contaminate the bearings.
Spin
the tensioner pulley on its hub by hand.
Sfcfl
movement or excessive freeplay is an rcfceticn of severe wear: the tensioner is not 3 serviceable component, and should be nnewsd.
4.33 Holding the camshaft sprocket with the tool described previously while tightening the sprocket bolt Refitting 4 Slide the tensioner pulley over the mounting stud and fit the securing nut. 5 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4. Camshaft sprocket Removal 6 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4. 7 Unscrew the bolt and slide the sprocket from the end of the camshaft. Inspection 8 With the sprocket removed, examine the camshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 6 and renew it. 9 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 10 Wipe clean the sprocket and camshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 11 Locate the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, then refit the retaining boll finger tight only at this stage. 12 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
Crankshaft sprocket Removal 13 Remove the timing bell as described In Section 4. 14 Working beneath the engine, unbolt and remove the flywheel lower cover, then hold the flywheel stationary preferably using a tool which engages the flywheel starter ring
<

Alternatively have an assistant engage a wide-bladed screwdriver with the starter ring gear. 15 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and slide the sprocket off the end of the crankshaft. The sprocket may have an integral location key on its inner face, or a separate key which locates In a groove in the crankshaft nose may be fitted. Inspection 16 With the sprocket removed, examine the crankshaft oil seal for signs of leaking. If necessary, refer to Section 7 and renew it. 17 Check the sprocket teeth for damage. 18 Wipe clean the sprocket and crankshaft mating surfaces. Refitting 19 Slide the sprocket onto the crankshaft making sure
11
engages the integral key or separate key, then refit the bolt and washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using the method described in paragraph 14. 20 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.
6 Camshaft
oil
seal -renewal
1 Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket as described in Sections 4 and 5. 2 Punch or drill a small hole in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into the hole, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fall in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil, and drive it into position until It seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take care nof to damage the seal lips during fitting. Note that the Seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket and timing belt as described in Sections 5 and 4.
7 Crankshaft oil seats -renewal I
4.35 Position the tensioner so that the mobile Indicator (1) is aligned with the fixed reference mark (2)
Front (right-hand side) oil seal 1 The front oil seal is located in the oil pump on the front of the crankshaft. Remove the timing belt as described in Section 4 and the crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Using a hooked Instrument, remove the oil seal from the oil pump casing taking care not to damage the surface of the crankshaft. 3 Clean the seating in the housing and the surface of the crankshaft. To prevent damage to the new oil seal as it is being fitted, wrap some adhesive tape around the end of the crankshaft and lightly oil it.

Braking system 9®3
2.6a Unscrew the upper...
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 6 Unscrew the upper and lower caliper guide cin bolts, using a slim open-ended spanner to counterhold the head of the guide pin (see illustrations). Discard the guide pin bolts -new items must be fitted on reassembly. 7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly (see illustration). Suspend it from a suitable point on the suspension using a length of wire or 8 cable-tie, to avoid straining the hydraulic hose.
All models Caution: Do not depress the brake pedal until the caliper is refitted, or the piston will
be
pushed out of Its bore. 8 Withdraw the brake pads from the caliper bracket (see illustrations). 9 Measure the thickness of each brake pad's foclion material. If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease; there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material, once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly, or are fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly.

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Warning: Do not be tempted to swap brake pads over to compensate for uneven wear. 10 if the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar and brake cleaning fluid. Pay particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Where applicable, clean out the grooves in the friction material, and pick out any large embedded panicles of dirt
or
debris. 11 Clean the surfaces of the brake pad contact points In the caliper body and caliper mounting bracket. 12 Prior to fitting the pads, check that the giide pins can slide freely in the caliper body, and check that the rubber guide pin gaiters
are
undamaged. Brush the dust and din from
the
caliper and piston, but do not inhale it. as
4 may
contain asbestos. 13 Inspect the dust seal and the area around Ihe piston for signs of damage, corrosion or
models with ABS and diesel models)
brake fluid leaks. If evident, refer to Section 3 and overhaul the caliper assembly. 14 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the caliper piston must be pushed back into the cylinder, to allow for the extra depth of the friction material. Either use a G-clamp or similar tool, or use suitable pieces of wood as levers. Provided that the master cylinder reservoir has not oeen overfilled with hydraulic fluid, there should be no spillage, but keep a careful watch on the fluid level while retracting the piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned off. A Warning: Do not syphon the fluid by mouth, as it is poisonous; use a syringe or an old poultry baster. 15 Apply a little high temperature brake grease to the contact surfaces of the pad backing plates: take great care not to allow any grease onto the pad friction linings. Similarly, apply brake grease to the pad contact points on the caliper bracket - again take care not to apply excess grease, which may contaminate the pads. 16 Place the brake pads in position on the caliper bracket, with the friction material facing the surfaces of the brake disc. Feed the wear indicator cable through the caliper body aperture.
Petrol models without ABS 17 Pivot the caliper body down over the brake pads, then refit the guide pin and clip.
2.7 Lift the caliper from the hub/disc assembly
Petrol models with ABS and diesel models 18 Fit the caliper body in position on the caliper bracket, then fit the new guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
AH models 19 Check that the caliper body can slide freely on the guide pins. Ensure that the flexible hydraulic hose is not twisted or kinked In any way. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the hose does not chafe against the suspension or steering gear. 20 Where applicable, reconnect the pad wear indicator wiring and press it into the retaining clips on the suspension. 21 Repeat the above procedure on the remaining front caliper. 22 With both sets of front brake pads fitted, depress the brake pedal repeatedly until the pads are pressed into firm contact with the brake disc, and normal pedal pressure is restored. Any sponginess felt when depressing the pedal is most probably due to air trapped inside the hydraulic system - refer to Section 11 and bleed the braking system before progressing any further. 23 Refit the roadwheels. and lower the vehicle to the ground. 24 Check the hydraulic fluid level as described in Weekly checks. 25 Check the operation of the braking system thoroughly,
2.8a Withdraw the outboard... 2.8b ... and inboard brake pads from the caliper bracket

10*1
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Contents
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal 4 Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal 5 Electrical fault finding - general information 2 Exterior light units - removal and refitting 6 Fuses and relays - general Information 3 General information and precautions 1 Headlight beam alignment • general Information 6 Horn • removal and refitting 9 Instrument panel - removal and refitting 7 Loudspeakers - removal and refitting 10
Degrees of difficulty
Radio aerial - removal and refitting 11 Radio/cassette player • removal and refitting 12 Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting 13 Switches - removal end refitting 14 Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting 15 Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting 17 Windscreen/tailgate washer system components • removal and refitting 16 Wiper arm • removal and refitting 18

Easy,
statable for ^
novice with liffle
|| experience ^
Fairly
easy,
suitable for beginner with ^ some experience ^
Fabtycffficiit,
suitable
for competent ^
DIY
mechanic ^

Difficult, suitable for
^ experienced DIY JR mechanic

Very difficult,
A,
suitable
for
expert DIY
Sj or professional ^
Specifications
Bulb ratings Watts Headlights 60/55 Front long range driving light 55 Front fogllght 55 Front direction Indicator light 21 Front sidelight 5 Front direction indicator repeater light 5 Stop light 21 Tall light 5 Rear direction indicator light 21 Reversing light 21 near fogllght 21 Hear number plate light 5 Courtesy light 10 Map reading light 5
1 Genera! information and precautions

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Warning: fie/Ore carrying out any work on the electrical system, read through the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, and in Chapter 8. The electrical system is of 12-volt negative earth type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid type battery, which is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5. It should be noted that, prior to working on any component In the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be disconnected, to prevent the possibility of electrical short-circuits and/or fires. Caution: Before proceeding, refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual for further information.
2 Electrical fault finding-general information
Note: Refer to the precautions given In Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. The following tests relate to testing ot the main electrical circuits, and should not be used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as antHock braking systems), particularly where an electronic con fro/ module is used.
General 1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component, and the wiring and connectors which link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help to pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit, wiring diagrams are Included at the end of this manual. 2 Before attempting to diagnose an electrical fault, first study the appropriate wiring diagram, to obtain a more complete understanding of the components included In the particular circuit concerned. The possible sources of a fault can be narrowed down by noting whether other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fait at one time, the problem Is likely to be related to a shared fuse or earth connection.