water pump FIAT PUNTO 1995 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Every 10 000 miles - petrol models ia.q
10 Pollen filter renewal
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located under the engine bulkhead cover panel. 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both svindscreen wiper arms. 3 Unclip the rubber
seal
from the relevant end of
the
top of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and pull out the fasteners securing the bulkhead cover panel in position. Release the cover panel Irom the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from its housing (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, securing it in position with Ihe fasteners, and seat the rubber seal on
the
bulkhead.
11 Idle speed and ^
CO
content check J and adjustment ^
1 The idle speed is controlled by the ECU via a stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body and is not adjustable. 2 The exhaust gas oxygen content is constantly monitored by the ECU via the Lambda sensor, which is mounted in the exhaust down pipe. The ECU then uses this information to modify the injection timing and duration to maintain the optimum air/fuel ratio.
3 Experienced home mechanics with a considerable amount of skill and equipment (including a good-quality tachometer and a good-quality, carefully calibrated exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check the exhaust CO level and the idle speed. However, if these are found to be in need of adjustment, the car must be taken to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer for testing using the special test equipment which is plugged into the diagnostic connector.
12 Steering and ^ suspension check
front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and
vehicle support).
2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steehng rack-and-pinion gaiters for spirts, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Qrasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation Is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
12.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant tum the steering wheel back and forth about sn eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any. lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/ shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, ihe body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or 2 years
13 Auxiliary drivebelt{s) check % and renewal ^
Note: Fiat specify the use of a special tool to cooectfyset the drivebelt tension. If access to ibis equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension should be checked using the special tool at the earliest possible opportunity. 1 Depending on equipment fitted, one. two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. The alternator, power steering pump and air
conditioning compressor, as applicable, are each driven by an Individual drivebelt.
Checking 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up

ib-8 Every 10 000 miles - diesel models
10.1 Checking the condition of a driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust system check
1 With the engine cold {at least an hour after tho vehicle has been driven), check ihe complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system Is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe oorrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are In good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight, Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of tho system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity ot the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be Iracod to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or
suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.
10 Driveshaft gaiter check
I
1 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto lull lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition ol the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs ot cracking, splits or detenoration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the Inner CV joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8. Section 3). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in Ihe driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.
11 Idle speed check and adjustment
1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. A
diagnostic socket is provided for the use of Flat test equipment, but this will not normally be available to the home mechanic. If it Is not felt that adjusting the Idle speed by ear 19 satisfactory, It will be necessary to purchase or hire an appropriate tachometer, or else leave tho task to a Fiat dealer or other suitably equipped specialist, 2 Before making adjustments, warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Make sure that the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted (see Chapter 4C). 3 The adjustment must be made with all electrical components (Including the cooling fan) switched off. It the fan comes on dunng the adjustment, wait until it switches off automatically before proceeding. 4 The idle adjustment screw Is located on the top of the fuel injection pump (see illustration). To adjust the idie speed loosen the locknut and turn the screw as required then tighten the locknut. 5 On completion switch off the engine.
12 Fuel filter renewal i
1 The fuel filter is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment. An electrically-operated heater is located between the filter and tlw housing, 2 Position a suitable container under the fuel filler. Loosen tho bleed screw on the top of the filter, then disconnect the wiring from Ihe water sensor and loosen the water drain screw on the bottom of the filter. Allow the fuel to drain completely (see illustration). 3 Tighten the drain and bleed screws, then Use an oii niter strep to loosen the fuel filter {see illustration).
12.2 Loosening the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter
11.4 fdie speed adjustment 1 Locknut 2 Adjustment screw

ib.14 Every 2 years - diesel models
Radiator flushing 7 To flush the radiator disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of dean water through the radiator, and continue Hushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 9 II after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cooling system cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer's instructions are followed carefully. If Ihe contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.
Engine flushing 10 To flush tho engine, remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3. 11 With the bottom hose disconnected, direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue Hushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 12 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hose with reference to Chapter 3.
Cooling system filling 13 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following sub* Section). 14 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant Into Ihe expansion tank to prevent airlocks from forming. Ensure that all bleed plugs/screws are open. 15 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of water, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top* up with more water. 18 Once ihe level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air in
the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap. Close all bleed plugs. 17 Start Ihe engine and run il until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow It to cool. 18 Check for leaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant level In the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Note that the system must be cold before an accurate level Is indicated In the expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap Is removed while the engine is still warm, cover the cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system Is released, then continue to turn the cap untH it can be removed.
Antifreeze mixture 19 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion Inhibitors become progressively less effective. 20 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are indicated in the Specifications. 21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be complelely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the dale installed. Any subsequent topping-up should bs made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 23 Do not use engine antifreeze In the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
28 Brake fluid renewal

A


Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyas and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring It. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as It absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can causa a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described In Chapter 9. except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit. 2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open Ihe first bleed screw in the sequence, and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir.
ffffTOgf Old hydraulic fluid Is
lifcjllitt*
Invariably much darker In [HINT] colour than the new, making /{easy to distinguish the two.
3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from (he bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to Ihe MAX level line. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws In the sequence until new fluid can be seen al all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up 10 above the MIN level al all limes, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check thai all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off ail traces of split fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road,

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Torque wrench settings Nm
IM
ft Camshaft cover 8 6 Camshaft sprocket 70 52 Cylinder head; Stage 1 30 22 Stage 2 Angle-lighten a further 90° Siege 3 Angle-tighten a further 90B Crankshaft sprocket centre bott 100 74 Engine mounting bolt: M10X1.25 69 44 MB 25 18 Engine mounting nut (M10x 1.25) 60 44 Flywheet/driveplate 44 32 Sump 10 7 Timing belt tensJoner 28 21
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided Into four Parts: A. 8. C and D. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines, Part B. DOHC (18-valve) petrol engines and Part C, diesel engines. Part 0 covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, 9 and C, the assumption Is made lhat the engine is Installed in the vehicle, with sll ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling Information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, is given in the Specifications. The engines covered In this Part of Chapter 2 are water-cooled, single overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder units, with cast Iron cylinder Mocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads. All are mounted transversely at the front ot the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine, The cylinder head carries the camshaft which is driven by a toothed timing belt and runs In three bearings. It also houses the inlet and exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The camshaft actuates the vatves directly via cam followers mounted in the cylinder head. Adjustment of the valve clearances is by means of shims located on top of the followers. The cylinder head contains Integral oitways which supply and lubricate the tappets. The crankshafl Is supported by five main bearings, and endftoat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to the upper section of the centre main bearing.
Engine coolant is circulated by 8 pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from ihe front of the crankshaft. Oil Is drawn from the sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head, where It lubricates the camshaft journals and tappets, and also to the crankcase, where il lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and smell-ends, gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. On 1242 cc engines, oil jets are fitted lo the base of each cylinder bore -these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to Improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car a) Compression pressure - testing b) Auxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) c) Vatve clearances - checking and adjustment (refer to Chapter I A) d) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting e) Timing belt and covens - removal and refitting f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' h) Camshaft and cam followers • removal and refitting' t) Camshaft oil seal - renews/ j) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal k) Flywheel/dnvepfate • removal, inspection and refitting l) Engine mountings - inspection and renewal m)Sump - removal and refitting n) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly
•
removai. inspection and refitting *Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter SO, with details of camshaft and cam follower removal. Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described In Chapter 2D.
2 Location of
TDC
on % No
1
cylinder
General Information 1 The camshaft Is driven by the crankshaft, by means of sprockets and a timing belt. Both sprockets rotate In phase with each other and this provides the correct valve timing as the engine rotates. When (he liming belt is removed during servioing or repair, it Is possible for the camshaft and crankshaft to rotate Independently of each other and the correct valve timing Is then lost. 2 The design of the engines covered In this Chapter are such lhat potentially damaging piston-to-valve contact may occur if the camshaft is rotated when any of the pistons are stationary at, or near, the top of their stroke. 3 For this reason it is important lhat Ihe correct phasing between the camshaft and crankshaft is preserved whilst the timing belt Is off the engine. This is achieved by setting the engine In a reference position (known as Top Dead Centre or TDC) before the timing belt Is removed and then preventing the camshaft and crankshaft from rotating until the belt is refitted. Similarly, if ths engine has been dismantled for overhaul, the engine can be set to TOC during reassembly to ensure that Ihe correct shaft phasing is restored. 4 TDC is the highest point In the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC at Ihe end of the compression stroke and again at the end of the exhaust stroke. However, for the purpose of timing the ongine. TDC refers to the position of No 1 piston at the end of Its compression stroke. On ail engines In this manual, No 1 piston (and cylinder) Is at the timing belt end of the engine. 5 The camshaft sprocket Is equipped with a marking which, when aligned with a reference marking on the cylinder head, indicates that the camshaft is correctly positioned for cyl-inder No 1 al TDC on its compression stroke.

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Preparation for refitting 16 The mating faces of the cylinder head and cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting
the head. Use a hard plastic or wooden scraper to remove all traces of gasket and carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take padicular care when cleaning the piston crowns as the soft aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Make sure that the carbon is not afowed to enter the oil and water passages -Ihs is particularly important for the lubrication
system, as
carbon could block the oil supply to
Ihe
engine's components. Using adhesive tape
and
paper, seal the water, oil and bolt holes in tf« cylinder block. To prevent carbon entering twgap between the pistons and bores, smear
a
iittte grease in the gap. After cleaning each piston, use a small brush to remove all traces of grease and carbon from the gap, then wipe away the remainder with a clean rag. Clean all
ttie pistons
in the same way. 17 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if (xcassive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the Cytodar head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to check it for distortion.
Refer
to Part 0 of this Chapter if necessary. 18 Check the condition of the cylinder head
MRS.
and particularly their threads, whenever
they are
removed. Wash the bolts In a suitable solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each bolt for any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing them if necessary.
Refitting 18 Before refitting Ihe assembled cylinder head, make sure that the head and block mating surfaces are perfectly clean, and that
the
bolt holes in the cylinder block have been
mopped
out to clear any oil. 20 Check that the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned with tteir respective cylinder head and oil pump covtr marks as described in Section 2. 21 The new gasket should not be removed from its nylon cover until required for use. Fit
the
gasket dry, and make sure that the mating surfaces on the head and block are perfectly dean.
9.22a Place the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block ... 22 Place the gasket on the cylinder block so that the word ALTO can be read from above (see illustrations). 23 Lower the cylinder head onto the block so that It locates on the positioning dowel. 24 The cylinder head bolt threads must be clean. Dip the bolts In engine oil. and allow them to drain for thirty minutes. Screw the bolls in finger-tight then working progressively and in the sequence shown, tighten all the cylinder head bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting given In the Specifications, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket. With all the bolts tightened to their Stage 1 setting, working again in the specified sequence, first angle-tighten the bolts through ihe specified Stage 2 angle, then again through the Stage 3 angle, using a socket and extension bar. It is recommended that an angle-measuring gauge is used dunng this stage of tightening, to ensure accuracy (see Illustrations). 25 Refit the inlet manifold and throttle body using a new gasket (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B). 28 Refit the exhaust manifold using a new gasket. Tighten all nuts. Reconnect the exhaust downplpe bracket. 27 Refit the timing belt inner covers and tighten the bolls. 28 Refit the timing belt, and tension It as described in Section 4. Refit the timing belt outer cover. 29 Refit the ignition colls and camshaft cover. 30 Reconnect all hoses, electrical leads and controls referring the relevant Chapters of this manual. 31 Fit the air cleaner and ducting.
9.22b ... so that the ALTO marking can be read from above 32 Reconnect the battery then fill and bleed the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A.
10 Flywheel/driveplate • ^ removal, inspection
and
refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove the transmission as described in Chapter 7A or 7B. On manual transmission models also remove the clutch (Chapter 6). 2 Mark the position of the flywheel/driveplate with respect to the crankshaft using a dab of paint. Note thai on some models although there is only one location dowel on the flywheel/driveplate there are two holes in the eno of the crankshaft and it is therefore possible to locate Ihe flywheel 180n out. The flywheel/driveplate must now be held stationary while the bolts are loosened. A home-made locking tool may be fabricated from a piece of scrap metal and used to lock the ring gear. Bolt the tool to one of the transmission bellhousing mounting holes. 3 Unscrew then remove the mounting bolts then lift off the flywheel/driveplate. Recover the spacer plate on manual transmission models. Discard the fiywheet/drivepiate boils; new ones must be used on refitting.
Inspection
Manual transmission models 4 If the flywheel's clutch mating surface is deeply scored, cracked or otherwise damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
JEaMKA. mar 9.24c Using an angle gauge to tighten the cylinder head bolts to their second and third stage torque settings
L

2A*10 SOHC (8-valve) petrol engine in-car repair procedures
Lubrication system Oil pump type By-rotor driven from front of crankshaft Outer rotor-io-houslng clearance 0.100 to 0.210 mm Axial clearance 0.025 to 0.070 mm
Torque wrench settings Nm itrf ft Camshaft driven gears 120 89 Camshaft sprocket 120 89 Crankshaft sprocket centre bolt: Stage
1
20 15 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90® Cylinder head: Stage
1
30 22 Stage 2 Angle-tighten a further 90" Stage 3 Angle-tighten a further 90° Cylinder head extension to cylinder head 15 11 Engine mounting bolt: M10
x
1.25 59 44 M8 25 18 Engine mounting nut (MlOx 1.25) 60 44 Flywheel 44 32 Timing belt tensioner 25 18 Sump 10 7
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided into four Parts; A, B. C and O. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine hi the vehicle are described in Part A. SOHC (8-valve) petrol engines. Part B, DOHC (16-valve) petrol engines and Pari C, dlesei engines. Part D covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, B and C, the assumption Is made that the engine is Installed In the vehicle, with all ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified by their capacities. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, Is given in the Specifications. The engine covered in this Part of Chapter 2 is a water-cooled, double overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder unit, with cast iron cylinder block and aluminium-alloy cylinder head. The unit is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine. The cylinder head houses the eight inlet and eight exhaust valves, which are closed by single coil springs, and which run in guides pressed Into the cylinder head. The two camshafts are housed in 8 cylinder head extension which is bolted to the top of the cylinder head. The exhaust camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt and In turn drives the inlet camshaft via a pair of gears located at the left-hand end of the cylinder head extension.
The camshafts actuate the valves directly via self-adjusting hydraulic cam followers mounted in the cylinder head extension. The crankshaft is supported by five main bearings, and endfioat is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted to (he upper section of the centre main bearing. Engine coolanl is circulated by a pump, driven by the timing belt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from the front of the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from Ihe sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, It is distributed to the cylinder head and cylinder head extension, where it lubricates the camshaft journals and cam followers, and also to the crankcase, where it lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big and small-ends. gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. Oil Jets are fitted to the base of each cylinder bore - these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, to improve cooling.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car: a) Auxiliary drivebett - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 1A) b) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly -removal, Inspection and refitting c) Timing belt and covers • removal and refitting d) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting e) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' f) Cylinder hoad extension - removal and refitting g) Camshaft and cam followers - removal and refitting h) Camshaft oil seal - renewal i) Crankshaft oil seals • renewal
f) Flywheel - removal, inspection and
refitting
k) Engine mountings - Inspection and
renews'
f) Sump • removal and refitting 'Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed In Chapter 2D. Note 1: It is possible to remove the
pistons
and connecting rods (after removing (to cylinder head and sump) without removing
tt*»
engine. However, this Is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on fix bench, as described in Chapter 20. Note
2x
Many of the procedures in this Ctopfer entail the use of numerous special tools. Whet possible, suitable alternatives are descnbei with details of their fabrication. Before starring any operations on the engine, read through
tto
entire procedure first to familiarise yourself
wft
the work involved, tools to be obtained mi new parts that may be necessary.
2 Engine assembly/ valve timing holes -genera! information
and
usage
Note: Do not attempt to rotate the angint whilst the camshafts are locked In position,
il
the engine is to be left in this state foratofi$ period of time. It Is a good idea to plect suitable warning notices inside the vehicle, and in the engine compartment. This wfl reduce the possibility of the engine being accidentally cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to cause damage with the locking tools In place. 1 To accurately set the valve timing for ell operations requiring removal and refitting of
the
timing belt, liming holes are drilled in ihe camshafts and cylinder head extension. Ihe holes are used In conjunction with camshaft locking tools and crankshaft positioning
rods w
lock the camshafts when all the pistons me positioned at the mid-point of their stroke. Ths

2C*2 Diesel engine in-car repair procedures
1 General information
Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided Into four Parts; A. 8, C and 0. Repair operations that cart be carried out with the engine in the vehicle are described In Part A, SOHC (B-valve) petrol engines. Part B, DOHC (16-valve) petrol engines and Part C. diesel engines, Part D covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A. 8 and C. the assumption Is made that the engine is installed in Ihe vehicle, with all anciliaries connected If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling information which precedes each operation may be ignored.
Engine description Both normally aspirated (non-turbo) and turbocharged diesel engines are fitted to the Punto range. The engines together with their codes are given in the Specifications at the start of lhis Chapter. The engines are water-cooled, single-overhead camshaft. In-line lour cylinder units with cast-iron cylinder blocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads. The engine is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the left-hand side of the engine. The cylinder head carries the camshaft which is driven by a toothed timing belt. It also houses the inlet and exhaust valves which are closed by single coll valve springs and run in valve guides pressed into the cylinder head. The valves are operated by cam followers fitted over each valve, and the clearances are adjusted by shims positioned between the followers and the camshaft lobes. The camshaft is supported by four bearings • the end bearings are machined in the cylinder head and the remaining bearings have caps bolted to the cylinder head. The cylinder head contains integral oiiways which supply and lubricate the camshaft and followers and it also Incorporates renewable swirl chambers. The crankshaft Is supported by five main bearings, and endfloat Is controlled by a thrust bearing fitted on the rear main bearing. All diesel engines are fitted with a brake servo vacuum pump dnven from the left-hBnd end of the camshaft. Engine coolant is circulated by a pump, driven by the auxiliary drivebeit. For details of the cooling system refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a pump, driven from the front of the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from the sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on filter. From there, it is distributed to the cylinder head.
where il lubncates the camshaft journals and followers, and also to the crankcase, where it lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big- and small-ends, gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. Oil jets are fitted to the base of each cylinder bore - these spray oil onto the underside of the pistons, lo Improve cooling. An oil cooler is also fitted to reduce the temp-erature of oil before it re-enters the engine.
Repair operations possible with the engine in the car The following work can be carried out with the engine in the can a) Compression pressure - testing b) Auxiliary drivebeit - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter rej c) Valve clearances • checking and adjustment (refer to Chapter 1B) d) Camshaft cover - removal and refitting e) Tim/ng belt and covers • removal and refitting 0 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -removal and refitting g) Cylinder head - removal and refitting' h) Camshaft and cam followers - removal end refitting' I) Camshaft oil seal - renewal j) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal k) Flywheel • removal, inspection and refitting I) Engine mountings - inspection and renewal m)Sump • removal and refitting n) Oil pump and pick-up tube assembly -removal, inspection and refitting 'Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detalfed In Chapter 2D, with details of camshaft and cam follower removal. Note: It ts possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder nead and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on tho bench as described in Chapter 2D.
2 Location of
TDC
on ^ No
1
cylinder ||
General information 1 The camshaft and fuel Injection pump are driven by the crankshaft, by means of sprockets and a timing belt. All three sprockets rotate in phase with each other and this provides the correct valve and injection pump timing as the engine rotates. When the timing bell is removed during servicing or repair, it is possible for the camshaft, injection pump and crankshaft to rotate independently of each other and the correct timing Is then lost.
2 It Location of TDC on cylinder No
1
6 Remove the air inlet ducting as described ft Chapter 4C, Section 2. 7 Remove the heater glow plugs with reference to Chapter 5C. Due to the high compression ratio of diesel engines this Is necessary to allow the engine to be turned by hand. 8 Unscrew the mounting bolts and move the coolant expansion tank to one side for access to the timing covers. Release the hose from the clips on Ihe camshaft cover. 9 Release the toggle clips and remove the upper timing cover (see illustration),
2.9 Removing the upper timing cover