start FIAT PUNTO 1996 176 / 1.G User Guide

Maintenance procedures - petrol models ia./
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal Ja*
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather all Ihe necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as It
will
drain better, and more built-up sludge will
be
removed with it. Tske care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants end other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly Improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that
the
vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug Is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using an Allen key. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove
the plug
completely (see Haynes Hint). 4 Allow some time for the old oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the
container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit
(MB
HiNT '
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump white unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream
of
oil Issuing from the sump runs into the container, net up your sleeve.
the plug. Tighten the plug securely. 6 It the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under tho oil filter, which is located on the front right-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully remove It. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the ground (if applicable).
3.6 Oil filter location (viewed from above)
11 Remove the dipstick, then pull out the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour In half the specified quantity of oil first, then wail a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes: check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before (he pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle In the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the reference Sections of this manual.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
4 Brake warning lamp ag operation check J§
1 With the ignition key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake ftuid reservoir cap (see illustration). 2 As the button is depressed, the brake warning lamp on the instrument panel should Illuminate. 3 If the lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity tester, then refer to Chapter 12, Section 5, wd check the instrument panel bulb.
5 Front brake pad check
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels, 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the friction material of the brake pads on both front brakes- This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper (see illustration). 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads 4.1 Depress the button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models ia-h
clearance within specification. For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on them; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). t4 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft for easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the thinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and spark plugs. 18 lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Manifold mounting check
Refer
1O
Chapters 4A. 48 and 4D and check tne tightness of the nuts and bolts securing the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
17
Fuel
filter renewal I I
Warning: Before carrying out the !\ f°llow'n9 operation, refer to the precautions given In Safety firstI A
15.13 Shim thickness is marked on the tower face (here 4.20 mm) at the beginning of this manual, and follow them Implicitly. Petrol Is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. Note: 1242 cc (8-vatve) engine mode's from 1998 onwards are equipped with a modified fuel system incorporating a fuel fitter integral with the fuel pump. On these engines fuel filter renewal is not required. 1 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, on the right-hand side of the fuel tank (see illustration). To gain access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the filter to its support bracket. 3 Noting the fitted position of the filter body, release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. The correct position is indicated by an arrow marked on ihe filter body 4 Remove the filter from the vehicle. Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly flammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. 5 Locate the new filter into position, ensuring that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, as noted when removing the old filter. The flow direction can otherwise be determined by tracing the fuel hoses back along their length. 6 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter and lighten the clips, then locate it in the support bracket and tighten the mounting bolt.
17.1 Fuel filter location on tho right-hand side of the fuel tank 7 Start the engine, check the filter hose connections for leaks, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
18 Air fitter renewal
I
f f 08 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 1 Prise open the spring clips and withdraw the air cleaner cover a little way from the main body (see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 5 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines 6 Undo the three bolts securing the front of Ihe air cleaner cover to the main body. Lift the cover up at the front, disconnect the rear retainers and move it clear of the main body {see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 7 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 8 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean.
18.1 Prise open the spring clips... . and remove the filter element (8-valve engines)
18.6 Undo the three bolts (arrowed) and disconnect the air cleaner cover rear retainers (16-vatve engines)

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models 1A.13
20 Ignition system check
81
21 Engine management system check

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Warning: Voltages produced by an electronic ignition system are considerably higher than those produced by conventional ignition systems. Extreme care must be taken when working on the system with the Ignition switched on. Persons with surgically-Implanted cardiac pacemaker devices should keep well clear of the ignition circuits, components and test oquipment. 1 The ignition system components should be checked for damage or deterioration as follows.
General component check 2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted. 3 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping
the end
fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
Ensure that the leads are i numbered before removing i them, to avoid confusion when refitting
4 Check Inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. if not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end
of the spark plug. 5 Using a clean rag, wipe Ihe emlre length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for bums, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthways - the conductor inside might break. 6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from the ignition coll. Again, pull only on the end fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same
manner as the spark plug end. Refit the bad securely on completion. 7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
ihe same
way. 8 if new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine. 9 Even with the ignition system In first-class condition, some engines may still occasionally experience poor starting attributable to damp ignition components. To disperse moisture, a water-dispersant aerosol should be liberally
Ignition timing -
check
and adjustment 10 Check the ignition timing as described In Chapter 58.
1 This check is part of the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, and Involves testing Ihe engine management system using special dedicated test equipment. Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory. 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test te not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 If access to suitable test equipment is not possible, make a thorough check of all ignition, fuel and emission control system components, hoses, and wiring, for security and obvious signs of damage. Further details of the fuet system, emission control system and ignition system can be .found In the relevant parts of Chapters 4 and 5.
22 Hinge and lock lubrication %
1
1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate ail latches, locks and lock strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them If necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.
23 Headlight beam adjustment % & ^
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beem-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Fiat dealer or service station with the necessary facilities. In an emergency, however, the following procedure will provide an acceptable light pattern. 2 Position the car on a level surface with tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10 metres in front of. and at right-angles to, a wall or garage door, 3 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line corresponding to the centre line of the car, then measure off a point either side of this, on the horizontal line, corresponding with the headlamp centres. 4 Switch on the main beam and check that the areas of maximum illumination coincide with the headlamp centre marfcs on Ihe wall, if not. turn the adjustment screw located on the upper inside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam laterally, and the adjustment screw located on the upper outside edge of the headlight unit to adjust the beam
vertically. On models with electric headlight adjustment, make sure that it is set at its basic setting before making the adjustment.
24 Road test
Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all Instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain 6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission. 8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when Idling, and that there Is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action Is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vsgue or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, check that all Ihe gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest, if any problems are found, they should be referred to a Flat dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this Indicates wear in a drtveshaft joint, In which case renew the joint if necessary.
Check the braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that It holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

ia.14 Every 20 000 miles - petrol models
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts.
there should be a noticeable give In the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least tsvo minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now. it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal shouto feel considerably harder.
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or 3 years
. transmission (see illustration). Using an Allen 25 Lambda/oxygen sensor ^ key, unscrew the plug and clean it. check \ 3 The oil level should reach the lower edge of ^ the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and If the CO level at the exhaust tailpipe is too w,u tr,cWe out when is 'e™oved; this does high or low, Ihe vehicle should be taken to a «©l necessarily Indicate that the level is Fiat dealer so lhat the complete fuel-injection correct. To ensure that a true level is and ignition systems, including the Lamoda/ established, wait until the Initial trickle has oxygen sensor, can be thoroughly checked stopped, then ado oil as necessary until a using the special diagnostic equipment. Once ,r,ckle o1 new oil can be seen emerging. The these have been checked and are known to 'W wl" be correct when ,he flow ceases-us® be free from faults, the fault must be in the good-quality oil of the specified type, catalytic converter, which must be renewed Make sur®that vehicle Is completely level as described In Chapter 4D, Section 6. checking the level and do not overfill, 4 When the level Is correct refit and tighten the plug and wipe away any spilt oil.
26 Manual transmission oil level check ^ 27 Evaporative loss system ^ check
1 Park Ihe vehicle on a level surface, If possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level plug is best reached from under Ihe engine compartment. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil ts checked Immediately alter driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on the front of the
Refer to Chapter 40 Section 2 and check that all wiring and hoses are correctly connected to the evaporative toss system components.
28 Automatic transmission fitter and fluid change
1 Take the vehicle on a short run. to warm the transmission up to operating temperature.
Park the car on level ground, then switch off the Ignition. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support]. Note thai, when refilling and checking Uie fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission, Unscrew the sump drain plug and allow the fluid to drain for at ieast 10 minutes. Refit and tighten the drain plug when the fluid has completely drained.

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Warning: The transmission fluid may be very hot and precautions must be taken to avoid scalding.
4 Clean around the transmission sump mating flange. Unboll and remove the sump and remove the gasket. 5 Remove the two bolts and withdraw the transmission fluid filter {see illustration). 6 Fit the new filter, and secure It with the two bolts. 7 Refit the sump using a new gasket, then
_
lower the vehicle to the ground, 8 Fill the transmission with the specified quantity of fluid via Ihe dipstick tube, using a funnel with a fine mesh filter. 9 Run the engine to normal operating temperature, then check the fluid level as described In Weekly checks. 10 Dispose of the old fluid safely.
26.2 Transmission filler/level plug location 28.5 Automatic transmission fluid filter retaining bolts

Maintenance procedures - petrol models 1A.15
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or 4 years
29 Rear brake shoe check
1 Chock the front wheels then Jack up the rear of Ihe car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 Using the inspection hole at the edge of the brake drum, check that the linings are not worn below Ihe minimum thickness given in the Specifications (see illustration). If necessary use a torch. 3 If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or
less,
all four shoes must be renewed as a set. 4 At the same time check for signs of brake
Kutti
leakage. 5 For a comprehensive check, the brake drum should be removed and cleaned. This
will allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). 6 Refit the lubber plugs then lower the car to the ground.
30 Timing belt renewal
Refer to Chapter 2A or 2B. Note: Although the norma/ interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (105 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the interval Is reduced on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use. ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individuaf owner. That being said, it is highly recommended to err on the side of safety, and
29.2 Check the thickness of the shoe friction material through the hole on the edge of the drum (arrowed)
renew the belt at 40 000 miles (60 000 km), bearing in mind the drastic consequences resulting from belt failure.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or 6 years
31 Emission control system check
Refer to Chapter 4D. A full check of the emissions control systems must be made by a Fiat dealer.
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km)
32 Manual transmission all renewal S
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, if possible over an inspection pit or on a ramp as the filler/level and drain plugs are accessed from order
the
engine compartment. If necessary
Jack
ip the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking and vehicle
support). 2 Wipe clean the area around the filler/leval And drain plugs, which are on the front and bottom of the transmission (see illustration).
3 Using an Allen key. unscrew the filler/level plug and clean it. 4 Position a suitable container beneath the transmission, then use the Allen key to unscrew the drain plug. Allow the oil to completely drain. 5 Wipe clean the drain plug then refit and tighten It. 6 Fill the transmission with ihe correct grade and quantity of oil, referring to Section 26 when checking the level. Refit and lighten the filler/level plug. 7 Where applicable lower the vehicle to the ground. 32.2 Transmission drain plug location (viewed from under the vehicle)
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
33 Coolant renewal
I
Cooling system draining

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Warning: Walt until the engine Is cold before starting this pro-cedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come In contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water.
Ndver
leave antifreeze lying around In an open container, or fn a puddle In the
driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but ant/freeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag. and slowly turn the cap anticlockwise to relieve the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to tum the cap until it can be removed. 2 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub (see illustration). If the hose 33.2 Disconnecting the radiator bottom hose to drain tho coolant

ia.16 Every 2 years - petrol models
joint has not been disturbed for some time, if will bo necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to drain Into the container. 3 Certain models are fitted with cooling system bleed plugs, which should be opened to aid the draining process and help prevent airlocks. These are located on the top right hand edge of the radiator, on the heater Inlet hose and additionally, on 16-valve engines, on the heater outlet hose (see illustrations). If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided It is ciean and less than two years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended. 4 Once ail the coofant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip.
Cooling system flushing 5 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or If the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, Ihe cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. The cooling system efficiency can be restored by flushing the system clean. 6 The radiator should be flushed Independently of the engine, to avoid contamination. Radiator flushing 7 To flush the radiator disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 8 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean v/ater through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 9 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed wilh a good propnetary cooling system
cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer's Instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator. Engine flushing 10 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat as described In Chapter 3 then temporarily refit the thermostat cover. 11 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 12 On complotion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with reference to Chapter 3,
Cooling system filling 13 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreezo mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see below). 14 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant Into the oxpansion lank to prevent airlocks from forming. Ensure that all bleed plugs/screws are open. 15 If the coolant Is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of v/ater, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then top-up with more water. 16 Once the level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air In the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap. Close all bleed plugs. Continue the filling procedure as follows according to engine type.
1108 cc and 1242 cc (8-vaive) engines 17 Start the engine and run it until tt reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine and allow it to cool. 18 Chock for teaks, particularly around disturbed components. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank, and top-up H necessary. Note that the system must be coW before an accurate level Is indicated in the oxpansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is removed while the engine Is still warm, cover Ihe cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wall until any pressure remaining In the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until It can be removed. 1242 cc (16-valve) engines 19 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. start the engine and run it at Idling speed for two to three minutes. Allow the engine to continue running until the electric cooling fan operates, but during this time, briefly in-crease the engine speed to 2000 to 3000 rpm every 30 seconds. Maintain the coolant level in the expansion tank to the MAX mark during tliis procedure, adding more coolant as necessary. 20 On models without air conditfoning, wilh the engine still idling, carefully unscrew the bleed plug on the top of the radiator. Increase the engine speed until fluid emerges from the bleed plug, then close the plug and return the engine to idle.

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Warning: Take suitable pre-cautions against scalding when opening the bleed plug as the coolant will be very hot. 21 On all models, allow the engine to continue running at idle for a further five minutes. After this time, switch the engine ofl, allow it 1o cool completely and when cool

Every 2 years - petrol models ia.i?
check, and if necessary top-up, the level in the expansion tank. Refit the cap on completion. Antifreeze mixture 22 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified Intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
beoome
progressively less effective. 23 Always use an ethylene-glycol based antifreeze which Is suitable for use In mixed-metal cooling systems, The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are
Indicated In
the Specifications. 24 8efore adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 25 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached
to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent lopping-up should be made with the same
type and
concentration of antifreeze. 26 Do not use engine antifreeze In the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in the quantities stated on the bottle.
34 Brake fluid renewal | I

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Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring H. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some t/me, as it absorbs moisture from the air. excess moisture can cause a dangerous ioss of braking effectiveness. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit. 2 Working as described In Chapter 9, open the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has bsen emptied from the master cylinder reservoir.
Old hydraulic fluid Is Invariably much darker In colour than the new, making It easy to distinguish the two.
3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until onty the new fluid remans in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the MAX level line. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws in the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN level et all times, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation Is complete, check that all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road.
1A

Maintenance schedule - diesel models 1B.3
The mamtenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you. reI ihe dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These
are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily.
ff you wish to keep your vehicle In peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency.
performance and resale value of your vehicle. When the vehicle Is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty.
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly O Refer to Weekly checks
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or

6
months - whichever comes first • Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) P Drain any water from the fuel filter (Section 4)
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or

12
months - whichever comes first ill addition lo tho Items listed above, cany out the following; D Check the operation of the brake warning lamp J (Section 5) Check the front brake pads for wear (Section 6) :-G Check the underbody and sealant for damage j" (Section 7) n Hose and fluid leak check (Section 8) 0 Check the condition of the exhaust system and its 1 mountings (Section 9) -D Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters ", (Section 10) O Check and adjust the idle speed (Section 11) ;0 Renew (he fuel filter (Section 12) J] Renew the air filter element (Section 13) L) Renew the pollen filter (Section 14) •• Check the steering and suspension components • for condition and security (Section 15)
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or

2
years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: (P Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the auxiliary drlvebeltfs) (Section 16) '• Check the freeplay and height of the clutch pedal " (Section 17) D Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances (Section 18) Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 19) • Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 20) O Cany out a road test (Section 21)
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: • Check and if necessary top-up the manual transmission oil level (Section 22)
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or
4 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the rear brake shoes for wear (Section 23) • Renew the timing belt (Section 24)'
•Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (ids 000 km), it is strongly recommended that the belt Is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, le. mainly short Journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual bait renewal interval Is therefore very much up to the Individual owner, but bear in mind that sevefe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or
6 years - whichever comes first In addition to the Items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the condition and operation of the emission control system components (Section 25)
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) • Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 26)
Every 2 years
(regardless of mileage) • Renew the engine coolant (Section 27) • Renew the brake fluid (Section 28)

ib.6 Maintenance procedures - diesel models
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal it-
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the OlY owner. As engine oil ages, if becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads lo premature engine wear. 2 Befote starting this procedure, gather ail the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any splits. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this woik. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lilt, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands {see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method Is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or If it is at an angle, that Ihe drain plug is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using a 12 mm Allen key (see Illustration) Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely (see Haynes Hint), 4 Allow some time for the oid oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil (tow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug wilh a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit the plug. Tighten the ptug securely. 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container Into position under the oil filter, which Is located on the front right-hand side of the engine. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way (see illustrations).
3.3 Using a 12 mm Allen key to loosen the engine oil drain plug
Empty the oil In (he old filter Into Ihe container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old lilter to make sure thai the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully removo it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools (see Illustration), 10 Remove Ihe old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower Ihe vehicle to the ground (If applicable). 11 Remove tho dipstick, then unscrew (he oil liiler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using Ihe correct grade and typo of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a smalt quantity at a time until Ihe level Is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a tew minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes oul when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds up.
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump while unscrewing It by hand the lost couple of turns. As the plug releases, move It away sharpty so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs Into the container, not up your sieeve.
13 Switoh off the engine, and wait a few minutes for Ihe oil to settle in the sump once mora. With the new oil circulated and the fitter completely full, recheck the level on Ihe dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose ot the used engine oil safely, wilh reference lo General repair pioceduros In Ihe reference Sections of this manual.
4 Fuel filter water draining ^
1 A water drain screw is provided at the base of the fuel filter. 2 Position a suitable container under ihe fuel filter, Loosen Ihe bleed screw on the lop ol the filter, and open the drain screw at the base of tne filter by turning it anti-clockwise Allow fuel and water to drain until fuel, free from water, emerges from tho drain screw outlet. Close tne drain and bleed screws and tighten them securely 3 Dispose of the drained fuel safely. 4 Start tho onglno. II difficulty is experienced, Weed the fuel system (see Chapter 4C).
3.7a Using an oil fitter removal chain strap 3.7b Removing the oil filter 3.9 Now oil filter tightened by hand

Every 10 000 miles - diesel models ib«9
4 Completely unscrew the filter and pour the remaining contents into the container. Ensure (hat the rubber sealing ring comes away with
me
fitter and unscrew the drain screw from the
bottom
of tho filter (see illustrations). 5 Wipe clean the contact surfaces then smear
a
ittfe fuel on the sealing rubber of the new Nter. 6 Screw on the new filter fully using the hands orty. 7 Prime the fuel system and start the engine wth reference to Chapter 4C. Check for any signs of fuel leakage around the new filter.
13 Air fitter renewal
t Release the retaining clips and withdraw
Ihe
air cleaner cover a little way from the main body. Leave the cover attached to the inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected Inside the air cleaner and wipe the Inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element in position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 6 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
14 Pollen filter renewal
t
1 The pollen filter (where fitted) Is located under the engine bulkhead cover pane). 2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove both windscreen wiper arms. 3 Undp tho rubber seal from the relevant end of
the top
of the engine compartment bulkhead. 4 Unscrew the retaining fastener screws and Duiout the fasteners securing the bulkhead eovar panel in position. Release the cover panel from the base of the windscreen and remove it from the vehicle. 5 Pivot the pollen filter cover upwards and away then release the retaining clips and withdraw the filter from Its housing (see lustration).
12.3 Using an olt filter strap to loosen the fuel filter 6 Wipe clean the filter housing then fit the new filter, Clip the filter securely In position and refit the cover. 7 Refit the trim cover, secunng it >n position with the fasteners, and seat Ihe rubber seal on the bulkhead.
12.4a Removing the fuel filter
15 Steering and §S> suspension check ^
Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Visually Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of Ihese components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steenng gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the
fplllll iHpjiiisisps fa^aJw a LJgr >
H58B92
12.4b Showing the drain screw components on the bottom of the fuel filter source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement Is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free ptay is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there Is wear In the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint Is worn, the visual movemont will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar. check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber.
13.2 Removing the air filter element 14.5 Location of pollen filter 15.4 Rocking a roadwheel to check for wear in the steering/suspension components