start FIAT PUNTO 1996 176 / 1.G Repair Manual

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
8.5 Dial gauge (1), mounting bracket (2) and setting rod (3) In position on the injection pump (Lucas)
so that Its tip Is In contact with the bracket linkage (see Illustration). Position the dial gauge so that its plunger is at the mid-point of its travel and zero the gauge. 6 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction of rotation (clockwise) until the crankshaft is positioned at TDC on No 1 piston with ell the sprocket timing marks aligned. 7 Check the reading on the dial gauge which should correspond to the value marked on the pump (there is a tolerance of * 0.04 mm). The timing value may be marked on a plastic disc attached to the front of the pump, or alternatively on a tag attached to Ihe pump control lever (see illustrations). 8 If adjustment is necessary, slacken the front pump mounting nuts/bolt and the raar mounting bolt, then slowly rotate tne pump body until the point is found where the specified reading is obtained on the dial gauge (access to the lower front bolt is gained through the hole in the injection pump sprocket). When the pump Is correctly positioned, tighten both its front mounting nuta/bolt and the rear bolt to their specified torque settings. 9 Withdraw the timing probe slightly, so that it
positioned clear of the pump rotor dowel. Rotato the crankshaft ihrough one and three quarter rotations in the normal direction of rotation. 10 Slide the timing probe back Into position ensuring that it Is correctly seated against the guide sealing washer surface, not (he upper Hp, then zero the dial gauge. 11 Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the correct direction ol rotation to the TDC position and recheck the timing measurement 12 If adjustment Is necessary, slacken the pump mounting nuts and bolt and repeat the operations in paragraphs 6 to 11. 13 When the pump timing is correctly set. remove the dial gauge and mounting bracket and withdraw the timing probe. 14 Refit the screw and sealing washer to the guide and tighten it securely.
8.7a Pump timing value (x) marked on plastic diso (Lucas)
15 If the procedure is being carried out as part of the pump refilling sequence, proceed as described in Section 5. 16 If the procedure is being carried out with the pump fitted to the engine, refit the injector pipes tightening their union nuts to the specified torque setting. Reconnect the battery and refit the air inlet ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen tho injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air. 18 Check and If necessary adjust the Idle speed as described In Chapter 1B.
9 Fuel Injectors -testing, removal and refitting Sk ^

A


Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to Injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to pen ot rate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel Injection specie list.
Testing 1 Injectors do deteriorate with prolonged uso, and it is reasonable to expect them to need reconditioning or renewal after 60 000 miles
8.7b Pump timing values marked on label (1) and tag (2) (Lucas)
(100 000 km) or so. Accurate testing, overhaul and calibration of the Injectors must be left to a specialist. A defective injector which Is causing knocking or smoking can be located without dismantling as follows. 2 Run the engine at a fast idle. Slacken each Injector union In turn, placing rag around the union to catch spilt fuel, and being careful not to exposa the skin to any spray. When tho union on the defective Injector is slackened, the knocking or smoking will stop.
Removal 3 Remove ihe air Inlet ducting from tho front part of the onglne. 4 Carefully clean around the Injectors and injector pipe union nuts. 5 Pull the leak-off pipes from the injectors (see illustration). 6 Unscrow the union nuts securing Ihe injector pipes to the fuel Injection pump. Counterhold the unions on the pump when unscrewing the nuts. Cover open unions lo keep dirt out, using small plastic bags, or fingers cut from discarded (but clean!) rubber gloves. 7 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the pipes from the ln|ectors, If necessary, the Injector pipes may be completely removed-Note carefully the locations of the pipe clamps, for use when refitting. Cover tho onds ot (he injectors, to prevent dirt ingress. 8 Unscrew the injectors using a deep socket or box spanner, and remove Ihem from the cylinder head (see Illustration). 9 Recover the tire seal washers from the cy-linder head and discard them (see illustration).
9.5 Disconnecting the Injector leak-off pipes 9.8 Removing an injector

Fuel system - diesel models
4C*3

9.9 Removing the fire seal washor 9.13 Tightening an injector with a torque wrench
Refitting 10 Obtain new fire seal washers. 11 Take care not to drop the Injectors, or tfow the needles at their tips to become damaged. The injectors are prectsion-mado to Ine knits, and must not be handled roughly. In particular, never mount them in a bench vice. 12 Commence refitting by inserting the fire
seal
washers {convex face uppermost}. 13 Insert the injectors and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 14 Refit the injector pipes and tighten the union nuts. Make sure the pipe clamps are in Iteir previously-noted positions. If the clamps
are
wrongly positioned or missing, problems may be expenenced with pipes breaking or splitting,
15 Reconnect the leak-off pipes. 16 Refit the air ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen the Injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air.
10 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A, hov/ever note that the unit does not Incorporate a pump (see illustrations).
11 Fuel tank -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A, however note that in addition a safety valve with an anti-roll device is fitted in the top of the tank with a ventilation pipe to the front of the tank. The fuel gauge sender unit does not Incorporate a pump as this unit is located In the injection pump.
12 Inlet manifold - ^ removal and refitting %
Note: The Inlet and exhaust manifolds are both located on the rear of the engine and share the same securing bolts and gasket. Although the following procedure describes removal of the Inlet manifold separately it may be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold as well In order to renew the gasket.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Section 2. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of the engine. 3 On turbo models disconnect the air duct from the inlet manifold elbow. If necessary the elbow can be unbolted from the manifold and the sealing ring removed. 4 Unscrew the nuts securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder head noting the position of the support bracket. Note lhat some of the nuts also secure the exhaust manifold. Withdraw the inlet manifold from the studs (see illustrations), 5 Examine the gasket. If It is damaged it will be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold in order to renew it.
Refitting 6 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but tighten all nuts and bolts lo the specified torque.
12.4c Removing the Inlet manifold

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
14.6 Nuts securing the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold 14.8 Disconnecting the oil return pipe from tho turbocharger
13 Turbocharger -description and precautions
Description A turbocharger 1$ fitted to TDS, TD and SX models. It increases engine efficiency by raising the pressure In the inlet manifold above atmospheric pressure. Instead of the air simply being sucked Into the cylinders. It Is forced in. Additional fuel is supplied by the injection pump in proportion to the increased air inlet. Energy for the operation of the turbocharger comes from the exhaust gas. The gas flows through a specially-shaped housing (the turbine housing) and In so doing, spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is attached lo a shaft, at the end of which is another vaned wheel known as the compressor wheel, The compressor wheel spins in Its own housing, snd compresses the inlet air on the way to the inlet manifold. Boost pressure (the pressure in the Inlet manifold) is limited by a wastegate, which diverts Ihe exhaust gas away from the turbine wheel In response to a pressure-sensitive actuator. A pressure-operaled switch operates a warning light on the instrument panel in the event of excessive boost pressure developing. The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by an oil feed pipe from the main oil gallery The shaft floats on a cushion of oil. A drain pipo returns the oil to the sump.
Precautions The turbocharger operates at extremely high speeds and temperatures. Certain precautions must be observed, to avoid premature failure of the turbo, or injury to the operator. Do not operate the turbo with any of its parts exposed, or with any of ils hoses removed. Foreign objects falling onto the rotating vanes could cause excessive
damage, and (if ejected) personal injury. Do not race the engine immediately after start-up, especially if it Is cold. Give the oil a few seconds lo circulate. Always allow the engine to return to idle speed before switching il off - do not blip the throttle and switch off, as this will leave the turbo spinning without lubrication. Allow the engine to idle lor several minutes before switching off after a high-speed run. Observe the recommended intervals for oil and filter changing, and use a reputable oil of the specified quality. Neglect of oil changing, or use of Inferior oil, can cause carbon formation on the turbo shaft, leading to subsequent failure.
14 Turbocharger -removal and refitting
8 Disconnect the oil return pipe from the turbocharger (see Illustration). 9 Unscrew the bolt securing the mounting bracket to the cyfindar block. 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw the turbocharger from the studs in Ihe exhaust manifold. Recover the gasket. II It Is to be refitted, store the turbocharger carefully, and plug its openings to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting 11 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the fallowing points: a) if a new turbocharger Is being fitted, change the engine oil and filter. b) Tighten ail nuts and bolts to the specified torque. c) Before starting the engine, prime the turbo lubrication circuit by disconnecting the stop solenoid iead at the injection pump, and cranking the engine on the starter for three ten-second bursts.
Removal 1 Remove the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of Ihe engine. 3 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Section 2. 4 Loosen the clips and remove the air outlet duct between tho turbocharger and inlet manifold. Also disconnect the air inlet duct from the turbocharger. 6 Appty the handbrake, then jack up tho front of the vohicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 6 Bend back the locking tabs (if fitted) and unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust downpipe lo the exhaust manifold (see Illustration). Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust system (refer to Part 4D) end remove it from under the vehicle. Recover tne gasket. 7 Unscrew ihe union nut and disconnect the oil supply pipe from the turbocharger. Recover the copper ring and tape over the end of the pipe 10 prevent dust entry.
15 Turbocharger -examination and renovation l
1 With the turbocharger removed, inspect the housing for cracks or other visible damage. 2 Spin the turbine or the compressor wheel, to verify that the shaft is intact and to feel for excessive shake or roughness. Some play is normal, since in use, the shaft is floating on a film of oil. Check that the wheel vanes are undamaged. 3 The wastegate and actuator are Integral, and cannot be checked or renewed separately. Consul! a Flat dealer or other specialist If it is thought that testing or renewal is necessary. 4 If tho exhaust or induction passages are ail* contaminated, Ihe turbo shaft oil seals have probably failed. 6 No DIY repair of the turbo is possible. A new unit may be available on an exchange basis,

4D*4 Exhaust and emission control systems
d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this will soak the catalytic converter
in
unbumed fuel, causing It to overheat when the engine does start. e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high engine speeds. f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -these may contain substances harmful to the catalytic converter. g) DO NOT continue to use the car If
the
engine bums oil to the extent of leaving
a
visible trail of blue smoke.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter operates at very high temperatures. DO NOT, therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth, over long grass or piles of deed leaves after a long run. I) Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools during servicing work, j} In some cases a sulphurous smell
pike
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from the exhaust. This Is common to many catalytic converter-equipped cars and
once the car has covered a few
thousand
miles tha problem should
disappear,
k)
The
catalytic converter, used on a
weW*
maintained and well-driven car, should las for between
SO
000 and
100
000
miles-If
the converter is no longer effective It
must
be renewed.
Diesel models Refer to the information given in parts i,
g, h
and I of the petrol models information given above.

5A»1
Chapters Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Contents
Alternator - brush holder/regulator module renewal 6 Alternator/charging system • testing in vehicle 4 Alternator • removal and refitting 5 Auxiliary drivebelt • removal, refitting and adjustment See Chapter 1A or 1B Battery • condition check See Weekly Checks Battery • removal and refitting 3
Battery - testing and charging 2 Electrical fault finding • general Information See Chapter 12 General Information and precautions 1 Starter motor • removal and refitting 8 Starter motor - testing and overhaul 9 Starting system - testing 7
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for & novice with Tittle jg experience ^
Fairly easy, suitable ^ for beginner with some experience 3J
Fairly tfifftait, J^ sutable for competent ^ DIYmechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for ^ experienced D!Y mechanic ^
Verydtfficult, jk stitable far expert DfY X or professional ^
Specifications
General System type 12 volt, negative earth
Starter motor Type: Petrol engines Magneti-Marelli pre-engaged Diesel engines Bosch pre-engaged with reduction gear Output: 5A Petrol engines 0.8 kW (1108 cc) or 0.9 kW (1242 cc) Diesel engines 1.7 kW
Battery Capacity: Petrol engines 32 to 50 amp/hr Diesel engines 60 amp/hr Charge condition: Poor 12.5 volts Normal 12.6 volts Good 12.7 volts
Alternator Type Magneti-Marelli Output 65 to 85 amp
Torque wrench settings Nm ibt ft Alternator 60 44 Battery tray 29 21 Oil pressure switch: Petrol engine 32 24 Diesel engine 37 27

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
1 General information and precautions
General information The engine electrical system consists mainly of the charging and starting systems. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are covered separately from the body electrical devices such as the Ilght3, Instalments, etc (which are covered In Chapter 12). On petrol engine models refer to Part B for information on the ignition system, and on diesel models refer to Part C for information on the preheating system. The electncal system Is of 12-volt negative earth type. The battery fitted as original equipment is of maintenance* free (sealed for life} type and Is charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley. If a non-original battery is fitted It may be of standard or low maintenance type. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged type Incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear before the starter motor is energised. Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch prevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel.
Precautions Further details of the various systems are given In the relevant Sections of this Chapter. While some repair procedures are given, the usual course of action is to renew the component concerned. The owner whose interest extends beyond mere component renewal should obtain a copy of the Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems Manual, available from the publishers of this manual It Is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semiconductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, observe the following when working on the system: Always remove rings, watches, etc before working on the electrical system. Even with the battery disconnected, capacitlve discharge could occur If a component's live terminal is earthed through a metal object. This could cause a shock or nasty bum. Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator, electronic control units, or any other components having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged. If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive-to-posibve and negative-to-
negative (see Jump starting). This also applies when connecting a battery charger but In this case both of the battery terminals should first be disconnected. Never disconnect the battery terminals, the alternator, any electrical wiring or any test Instalments when the engine Is running. Do not allow the engine to turn the alter-nator when the alternator Is not connected. Never test for alternator output by flashing the output lead to earth. Never use an ohmmeter ot the type Incorporating a hand-cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing. Always ensure that the battery negative lead is disconnected when working on the electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding equipment on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator and components such as the fuel Injection/ignition electronic control unit to protect them from the risk of damage. Several systems fitted to the vehicle require battery power to be available at all times, either to ensure their continued operation (such as the clock) or to maintain control unit memories or security codos which would be wiped if the battery were to be disconnected. To ensure that there are no unforeseen consequences of this action. Refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual for further Information.
2 Battery- % testing and charging
Standard and tow maintenance battery - testing 1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check and compare the results with the following table, Note that the specific gravity readings assume an electrolyte temperature of 15*C (60'F); for every 10*C (18°f) below 158C (60aF) subtract 0.007, For every 108C (16'F) above 15"C (60'F) add 0.007. Ambient temperature Above 26"C Below 25DC Charged 1,210 to 1£30 1,270 to 1.290 70% charged 1.170to1.l90 1.230to1.250 Discharged 1.050toJ.070 1.110 to 1.130 2 If the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte In each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of the internal plates. 3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or more, the battery should be renewed. If the cell variation Is satisfactory but the battery is discharged, it should be charged as described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery -testing 4 In cases where a sealed tor life maintenance-free battery is fitted, topplng-up and testing of the electrolyte in each cell Is not possible. The condition of the battery can therefore only be tested using a battery condition Indicator or a voltmeter. 5 Certain models may be fitted with a maintenance-free battery with a built-in charge condition Indicator. The indicator Is located in the top of the battery casing, and indicates the condition of the battery from its colour. If the Indicator shows green, then the battery is In a good state of charge. If the Indicator turns darker, eventually to black, then the battery requires charging, as described later in this Section. If Ihe indicator shows clear/yellow, then the electrolyte level in Ihe battery is too low to allow further use, and tho battery should be renewed. Do not attempt to charge, load or Jump start a battery when the indicator shows dear/yellow. 6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter, connect the voltmeter across the battery and compare the result with those given In the Specifications under 'charge condition'. The test is only accurate if the battery has not been subjected to any kind of charge for the previous six hours. If this is not the esse, switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then wait four to five minutes baforo testing the battery after switching off the headlights. All other electrical circuits must be switched off, so check that the doors and tailgate are fully shut when making the test, 7 It the voltage reading Is less than 12.2 voHs, then the battery Is discharged, whilst a reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates 8 partially discharged condition. 6 If the battery Is to be charged, remove It from the vehicle (Section 3) and charge it as described later In this Section.
Standard and low maintenance battery - charging Note: The following is Intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4 amps and continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise In specific gravity Is noted over a four hour period. 10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used overnight. 11 Specially rapid boost charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in t to 2 hours are not recommended, as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating, 12 While charging the battery, note that the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 37.8*C(100°F),

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
Maintenance-free battery -charging Note: The following is intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer's recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery) before charging a battery. 13 This battery type takes considerably longer lo fully recharge than the standard type, the time taken being dependent on the extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up
to three days. 14 A constant voltage type charger is required, tooe set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 votts wth a charger current below 25 amps. Using
mis
method, the battery should be usable within three hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5 vofts. but this Is for a partially discharged battery and, as mentioned, full charging can
take
considerably longer. 15 If Ihe battery is to be charged from a fully discharged state {condition reading loss lhan 12.2 volts), have it recharged by your FIAT dealer or local automotive electrician, as Ihe charge rate is higher and constant super-vision during charging Is necessary.
3 Battery -removal and refitting
Note: Refer to Disconnecting the battery in ifte Reference Section of this manual before proceeding.
Removal 1 Slacken the clamp bolts and disconnect the ctamp from the battery negative (earth) terminal. 2 Remove the insulation cover (where fitted)
and
disconnect the positive terminal lead(s) in
Die same
way. 3 At the base of the battery, unscrew the bolt from the battery holding clamp plate and remove the clamp plate (see Illustration). A Remove the battery from Ihe engine compartment. 5 II necessary the mounting tray may be removed by unscrewing the bolts. On diesel models it will be necessary to remove the relay guard bolts as well.
Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal but make sure that the positive terminal is connected first followed by the negative terminal.
4 Alternator/charging system - >%•> testing in vehicle
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. 1 If the ignition warning light fails to Illuminate when the ignition is switched on, first check the alternator wiring connections for security. If satisfactory, check that the warning light bulb has not blown, and that the bulbholder is secure in its location in the instrument panel. If the light still fails to illuminate, check the continuity of the warning light feed wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 2 If the ignition warning light Illuminates when the engine Is running, stop the engine and check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned (see Chapter 1A or 18) and that the alternator connections are secure. If all is so far satisfactory, have the alternator checked by an auto-electrician. 3 If the alternator output is suspect even though the warning light functions correctly, the regulated voltage may be checked as follows. 4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and start the engine. 5 Increase the engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading should be approximately 12 to 13 volts, and no more than 14 volts. 6 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg. the headlights, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible, and check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. 7 If ihe regulated voltage is not as stated, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, e faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding or worn or damaged slip rings. The alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3.3 Removing the battery clamp plate
5 Alternator -removal and refitting
Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal {refer to Disconnecting the battery In the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove tho right-hand front roadwheel. 3 Remove Ihe Inner cover from under the right-hand wheelarch for access to tho right-hand side of the engine. 4 Disconnect the cables from the rear Of the alternator (see illustration).
Petrol models 5 Loosen the pivot and adjustment bolts then swivel the alternator towards the engine and slip off the drivebelt. Note that the position of the rpm sensor will prevent complete removal of the drivebelt from the crankshaft puiley. 6 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts then unscrew the upper slot-mounted bolt. Withdraw the alternator from the engine (see illustrations).
Diesel models 7 For additional working room, unclip and remove the upper timing belt cover then unbolt and remove the lower timing belt cover.
5.4 Cable connections on the rear of the alternator
5.6a Alternator adjustment and pivot bolts (petrol engine) B Adjuster bolt C Pivot bolt 5.6b Removing the alternator (petrol engine)

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
5.9a Unbolting the alternator upper bracket from the rear of the coolant pump
fl Loosen the pivot bolt and adjustment locknut then unscrew the adjustment bolt and swivel the alternator towards the engine so that the drivebefi may be slipped off the alternator pulley. 9 Unscrew and remove the pivot and adjustment bolts and withdraw the alternator Irom the engine compartment. If preferred the upper alternator bracket may bo unbolted from the rear of the coolant pump {see illustrations).
Refitting 10 Refitting is a reversal ot removal. Refer to Chapter tA or 1B as applicable for details of tensioning the auxiliary drivebeit. On completion lighten the pivot and adjustment botts/nut to the specified torque.
6 Alternator -brush holder/regulator module renewal
%
1 Remove the alternator as described in Section 5. 2 Extract the two small bolts and withdraw the brush box. Note the small plastic grille on the Marelli alternator (see illustrations), 3 Using a steol rule chock the length of the brushes. If less than 5.0 mm the complete brush holder assembly should be renewed. Note: On Bosch alternators it may be possible to obtain the brushes separate//, in which case the brush ieads should be unsoldered
5.9b Removing the pivot bolt and alternator from the engine
from ihe terminals and the new brush leads soldered onto the terminals. 4 Check the slip rings for excessive wear and clean them with a rag soaked in fuel. 5 Pit the new holder using a reversal of the removal procedure but make sure that each brush moves freely.
7 Starting system • & testing
Note: Refer to Ihe precautions given In Safety firstI and in Section I of this Chapter before stoning work. 1 If the starter motor falls to operate when the Ignition key Is turned to the appropriate position, the following possible causes may be to blame. aj The battery is faulty. b) The electrical connections between the switch, solenoid, battery and starter motor are somewhere failing to pass the necessary current from the battery through the starter to earth. c) 77:© solenoid is faulty. d) The starter motor is mechanically or electrically defective. 2 To check the battery, switch on the headlights. If they dim after a few seconds, this indicates that the battery is discharged -recharge (see Section 2) or renew the battery. If the headlights glow brightly, operate the ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current it reaching the starter motor, therefore the iao8 must lie In the starter motor. If the lights continue to glow brightly (and no clicking sound can be heard from the starter motor solenoid), this indicates that there is a lairt
In
the circuit or solenoid - see following paragraphs, if the starter motor turns siowfy when operated, but the battery is In good condition, then this indicates that either lae starter motor is faulty, or there is considers resistance somewhere in the circuit. 3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected, disconnect the battery ieads (including ihe earth connection to the body), lt» starter/solenoid wiring and tne engine/transmission earth strap. ThoroygWy clean the connections, and reconnect the leads and wiring, ihen use a voltmeter or J«i lamp to check that full battery voltage is available at the battery positive lead connection to the solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around ttie battory terminals to prevent corrosion > corroded connections are amongst the most frequent causes of electrical system faults. 4 If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the circuit disconnecting the wire from the solenod blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or less lamp between the wire end and a good earth (such as the battery negative terminal), ais check that the wire is live when tne ignition switch is turned to the start position. If It is. then the circuit is sound - if not. the circut wiring can be checked as described Chapter 12. Section 2. 5 The solenoid contacts can be checked
Oy
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp across Ihe solenoid. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, there should b»a reading or lighted bulb, as applicable. II thars is no reading or lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be renewed. 6 If the circuit and solenoid are proves sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor. In this event, it may be possible to have tre starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but check on the cost of spares before proceeding, as It may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor

5A«2 Starting and charging systems
6.4a Starter motor wiring connections (petrol engine)
8 Starter motor -removal and refitting S
Removal t Disconnect the battery negative terminal [refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
ol
the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
Jacking
and Vehicle Support). 3 On petrol engines, unscrew and remove the starter motor mounting bolt located at the top ol the transmission bellhousing. Access is
8.5 Disconnecting the battery cable from the starter motor
8.4b On diesel engines, raise the plastic cover...
gained from behind the battery. 4 Working beneath the vehicle, raise the plastic cover then disconnect the wiring from the solenoid located on top of the starter motor (see illustrations). 5 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the positive cable from the solenoid terminal (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the mounting bolts (noting the location of the support bracket on petrol engines), then withdraw the starter motor from the transmission (see illustrations).
Refitting 7 Refit the starter motor by following the removal procedure in reverse.
8.6a Starter motor mounting bolt locations (diesel engine)
8.4c ... and disconnect the solenoid trigger wire
9 Starter motor - ft* testing and overhaul ££
If the starter motor is thought lo be suspect, it should be removed from the vehicle and taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check on the cost of repairs before proceeding as il may prove more economical to obtain a new or exchange motor.
8.6b Removing the starter motor (diesel engine)

Ignition system - petrol models 5B®3
Chapter 1A tor further information. Also check tnat tha accelerator cable is correctly adjusted
as
described in the relevant part of Chapter 4. If the engine is running very roughly, check the compression pressures and the valve clearances as descnbed In the relevant parts of Chapters 1 and 2. 2
H
these checks fall to reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably equipped Fiat dealer for testing. A wiring block connector Is Incorporated in the engine management circuit Into which a special electronic diagnostic tester can be plugged. The tester will locate the fault quickly and simply alleviating the need to test all the system components Individually which is a time consuming operation that carries a high risk of damaging the ECU. 3 The only Ignition system checks which can
oe
earned out by the home mechanic are those cescribed in Chapter 1A, relating to the spark plugs, and the ignition coll test descnbed In this Chapter. If necessary, the system wiring and wiring connectors can oe checked as descnbed in Chapter 12, Section 2, ensuring that the ECU wiring connector(s) have first
been
disconnected.
3 Ignition HT coil - ^ removal, testing and refitting
Removal 1 On 6-valve engines, unscrew the boll and remove the plastic cover from the left-hand
end
of the cylinder head (see Illustration). On 15-valve engines, remove the air cleaner, resonator and Inlet air duct as described in Chapter 4B. 2 Identify the two HT leads for position then disconnect them from the coil HT terminals jsee illustration). 3 Disconnect the LT wiring plug.
4 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the relevant ignition coil from the end of the cylinder head,
Testing 5 Testing of the coil consists of using a multimeter set to its resistance function, to check the primary and secondary windings for continuity and resistance. Compare the results obtained to those given In the Specifications at the start of this Chapter. Note the resistance of the coil windings varies slightly according to the coil temperature; the results In the Specifications are approximate values for the coil at 20°C. 6 Check that there is no continuity between the HT lead terminals and the coil body/ mourning bracket. 7 Note that with the ignition switched on and the engine stationary, voltage will only be supplied to the ignition cotls for approx-imately 2 seconds. However, when tho engine is being cranked or running, voltage will be continually supplied. 8 If faulty, the coil should be renewed.
Refitting 9 Refitting ts a reversal of the removal procedure ensuring that the winng and HT leads are correctly reconnected (see illustration).
4 ignition timing • checking and adjustment
1 The Ignition timing is constantly being monitored and adjusted by the engine management ECU, and although it is possible to check the base ignition liming using a standard timing light It is not possible to adjust it. 2 For those wishing to check the ignition timing a stroboscope timing light will be required, and it will need to be the type which
3.1 Removing the ignition coll cover
can determine the amount of advance from the TDC markings on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel. It Is recommended that the timing mark is highlighted as follows. 3 Remove the plug from the top of the transmission then turn tho engine slowly (raise the front right-hand wheel and engage 4th gear) until the timing mark scribed on the edge of the flywheel appears in the aperture. Highlight the line with quick-drying white paint - typist's correction fluid is ideal. 4 Start the engine and run It to normal operating temperature, then stop it. 5 Connect the timing light to No 1 cylinder spark plug lead (No 1 cylinder Is at the timing belt end of the engine) as described in the timing light manufacturer's Instructions. 6 Start the engine, allowing it to idle at the specified speed (Chapter 1A), and point the timing light at the transmission housing aperture. Adjust the timing light until the TDC marks are aligned with each other and read off the amount of advance. 7 If the ignition timing is incorrect, the car should be taken to a Fiat dealer who will be able to check the system quickly using special diagnostic equipment. 8 After making the check stop the engine, disconnect the timing light and refit the plug to the transmission.
3.2 HT terminals (1) and LT wiring plugs (2) on the two ignition colls 3.9 Ignition colt connections