warning FIAT PUNTO 1996 176 / 1.G Workshop Manual

Safety first! 0.5
Working on your ear can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning • Beware of burns from the exhau3t system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle. ~ always supplement the ' ' -jack with axle stands, or use ... drive-on i'j ramps. kr Never venture ™ under
a
car
vv/j/ch
Is only supported by a jack. • Take card if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire • Fuel Is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't (et fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of toots). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repainng or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock x ^ ^ ? , • Ignition HT _ " voltage can be ^ dangerous, ~ especially to > people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the f^ ignition system with fT") the engine running or ' J ' J the Ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous: they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut, • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. « Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream If necessary. Change out of oll-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame {including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found In gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with soch components It is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when cerlam types of synthetic rubber, found In some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc. are exposed to temperatures above 400;C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years, tfit gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steenng wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

A


Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any otfterpart of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wrtstwatch etc. before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system, • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job. or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting toots which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play In or near a vehicle being worked on.

o«8
Roadside repairs
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown horo will vary according to model. For Instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to aii vehicles-
Preparation
• When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it Is safe to do so. • Park on firm level ground. If possible, and v/etl out of the way of other traffic. • Use hazard warning lights if necessary.
Changing the wheel
A
Warning: Do not change a wheel (n a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a fay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic white changing the wheel - it Is easy to becomo distracted by the job in hand.
If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or P on models with automatic transmission).
• Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of largo stones will do for this. G If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the iack.

I

Tbe spare wheel and tools (Including the jack) are stored
In
the luggage compartment beneath the floor covering. Unscrew the central plastic nut to remove the tool holder.
Slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn Locale the jack under the triangular mark on the 6)11 next to the wheel to be changed, on firm ground

4

Turn the Jack handle clockwise until the wheel Is raised clear of the ground Unscrew the wheel bolts, withdraw the trim and remove the whed
6

Fit Ihe spare wheel on the pins, and screw In the bolts. Lightly lighten tho bolts with the wheelbrace then lowor the vehicle to the ground
Finally...
Securely lighten the wheel bolts in Ihe sequence shown. Note that the wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity.
• Remove l)>e wheel chocks.
• Stow the punctured wheel, jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. • Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low. or It you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to Ihe right pressure.
D When using tho space-saver spare wheel, do not exceed 50 mph (SO kph). C Have the damaged tyre or wheal repaired as soon as possible.

Roadside repairs 0.9
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs Investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
A
Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids aro poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of 0 fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park It over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
Antifreeze
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline oeposit like this.
Oil from filter
A leak occurring at a wheel Is almost certainly brake fluid.
Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the drivoshafts.
Power steering fluid
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
When ail else falls, you may llnd yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances. OIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: • Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • Always turn the Ignition key to the ON position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. • Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.
• Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. • Note that greater-then-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. • On models with power steering, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required. • The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. • Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. • Only dnve at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.
Towing
• On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply(see Chapter 7B. Section 1). If In doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. • The front towing eye is supplied as part of the tool kit stored in the luggage compart-ment. To fit the eye pnse out the plastic cover from the front or rear bumper using a screwdriver, then screw the eye onto the threaded pin as tightly as possible.

A


Warning: To prevent damage to the catalytic converter, e vehicle must not be push'started, or started by towing, when the engine is at operating temperature. Use jump leads (see Jump starting).

do Weekly checks
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.
These Weekly checks require no great skill or special lools, and the small amount of lime they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;
P Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.
C Many breakdowns are caused by electacai problems. Battery-relalod faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will ofton prevent the majority of these.
• If your car develops a brake fluid teak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.
• If the oil or coolant levels run low. the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Underbonnet check points
4 1.1 litre petrol
A Engine oil level dipstick Q Engine oil filler cap C Cooteof expansion tank P Brake fluid reservoir E Screen washer fluid reservoir p Battery
< 1.2 litre
m (8-valve) petrol
^ 1 A Engine oII level dipstick
B Engine otl tiller cap
fi i: c Coolant expansion tank
D Brake fluid reservoir
E Screen washer fluid reservoir
F Battery

o*i2 Weekly checks
Engine oil level
Before you start • Make euro that your cor is on level ground. • Check ihe oil level oefore ihe cor is driven, or at least 5 minutes alter the engine has been switched off.
HHifffl If tho oil Is checked rTf"™^ Immediately after driving the IHlAIT vehicle,
some
of the oil will " remain In the upper engine components, resulting in on inaccurate reading on the dipstick!
The correct oil Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It Is very important that the correct oil for your car is used
Lubricants and fluids).
Car Care • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whother you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains In the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil.
• Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see pholo 2). If Ihe level Is too low
sqvoio
engine damage may oecur. Oil seal failure may result if tho engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

I

Tho dipstick is brightly coloured for easy identification (seo Under bonnet check points). Withdraw the dipstick (petrol engine shown).

3

If more oil is needed, remove the oil filler cap Irom the top of the ongine (petrol engine shown).
SI i J

2

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again. The level should be between the upper and lower marks.

4

Oil Is added through the filler cap aperture (diesel engine shown). Add the oil a little at a time, checking the level on the dipstick often. Using a funnel will help to reduce spillage. Don't overfill (see Car Care).
Coolant level
A
Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coo/ant about, as It is poisonous.
Car Care • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there Is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and Joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and roctify as necessary.
• It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.
H Check that the coolant level is between I the MIN and MAX marks, il topping up is necessary, wait until tho engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it (petrol engine shown).

2

On diesel engine models, Ihe ooolant expansion tank is a different shape, but Ihe same procedure applies as for petrol engine models (see photo 1). Tho MlN and MAX marks appear on the side of tlie tank neorosl the engine.

3

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level is up to the MAX mark (petrol engine shown), The MIN and MAX marks appear on the tank below the filler neck.

Weekly checks 0.13
Brake fluid level
A
Warning: • Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouting it.
• Do not use fluid that has been standing open for so mo time, as It absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Mpmna * Make sure that your car Is I on level ground. HiNTi * Th* ffftt 'eve/ In the reservoir will drop slightly as

I

The MIN and MAX marks are indicated on the side of Ihe reservoir The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

2

11 topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.
the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the "MIN" mark.
Safety First! • If the reservoir requires repeated topping* up this is an indication of a fluid leak somev/here In the system, which should be investigated immediately.
• If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.
Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, taking care not to damage the level switch float. Inspect the reservoir: if the fluid Is dirty Ihe hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1A or 1B).

4

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components, Use only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, secureiy refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.
Power steering fluid level
Before you start: •Park the vehicle on level ground. • Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. •
The
engine should be turned off.

I

The reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment. Wipe clean the area around the reservoir filler cap then unscrew It from the reservoir.
For the check to be accurate, the steering must HlHT; not be turned once the engine has been stopped.


2

Dip the fluid with the reservoir cap/ dipstick (do not screw the cap into position). When the engine is cold, the fluid level should be up to Ihe MIN mark (B): when hot. it should be on the MAX mark (A).
Safety First! • The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

3

When topping-up, use the specified type of lluid and do noi overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, securely refit the cap.

1A»1
Chapter
1
Part A:
Routine maintenance & servicing - petrol models
Contents

Air
filter renewal 18 Automatic transmission filter and fluid change 2B Auxiliary dr cmI
and filter renewal 3 Evaporative loss system check 27 Exhaust system check 8 From brake pad check 5 Fuel filter renewal 17 Headlight beam adjustment 23 Hinge and lock lubrication 22
Hose and fluid leak check 7 Idle speed and CO content check and adjustment .11 Ignition system check 20 Introduction 1 Lambda/oxygen sensor check 25 Manifold mounting check 16 Manual transmission oil level check 26 Manual transmission oil renewal .32 Pollen filter renewal 10 Rear brake shoe check 29 Regular maintenance 2 Road test 24 Spark plug renewal 19 Steering and suspension check 12 Timing belt renewal 30 Underbody sealant check 6 Valve clearance check and adjustment 15
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for ^ novice with little experience ^
Fairty easy, suitable for beginner with ^ some experience
FaMy difficult, ^ sitable for competent jj^ DIY mechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY aJ mechanic ^
Very difficult, ^ suitable for expert DIY or professional ^
expert22 fl/ia http://rutracker.org

Maintenance schedule - petrol models 1A.3
The maintenance Intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These axe the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily.
if you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the efficiency.
performance and resale value of your vehicle. When the vehicle Is new, it should be serviced by a factory-authorised dealer service department, In order to preserve the factory warranty.
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly Q Refer to Weekly checks
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or
6 months - whichever comes first • Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
Note: Frequent oil and fitter changes am good tor the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least
twice
a year if the mileage covered Is a less.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes first
In
addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: Q Check the operation of the brake warning lamp (Section 4) • Check the front brake pads for wear (Section 5) • Check the underbody and sealant for damage (Section 6) • Hose and fluid leak check (Section 7) • Check the condition of the exhaust system and its mountings (Section 8) • Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters (Section 9) • Renew pollen filter (Section 10) • Check exhaust gas content and idle speed (Section 11) • Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 12)
Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes first
In
addition to the Items listed above, carry out the following: • Check and if necessary adjust the tension of the auxiliary drlvebelt(s) (Section 13) • Check the freeplay and height of the clutch pedal (Section 14) • Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances (Section 15) HI Check and if necessary tighten inlet and exhaust manifold mountings (Section 16) • Renew the fuel filter (Section 17) D Renew the air filter element (Section 18) O Renew the spark plugs (Section 19) • Check the condition of the HT cables (Section 20) • Check the engine management system (Section 21) Q Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 22) O Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 23) • Carry out a road test (Section 24)
Every 30 000 miles (45 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the operation of the Lambda sensor (Section 25) • Check and if necessary top-up the manual transmission oil level (Section 26) • Check the operation of the evaporative loss system (Section 27) • Automatic transmission inner filter and fluid renewal (Section 28)
Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) or
4 years - whichever comes first In addition to the items fisted above, carry out the following: • Check the rear brake shoes for wear (Section 29) • Renew the timing belt (Section 30)"
*Noto: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 70 000 miles (105 000 km), It is strongly recommended that the belt Is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to Intensive use, ie. malniy short Journeys or a let of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal Interval Is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.
Every 60 000 miles (90 000 km) or
6 years - whichever comes first in addition to the items listed above, cany out the following: • Check the condition and operation of the crankcase emission control system (Section 31)
Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) • Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 32)
Every 2 years
(regardless of mileage) • Renew the engine coolant (Section 33) • Renew the brake fluid (Section 34)

Maintenance procedures - petrol models ia./
Every 5000 miles (7500 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal Ja*
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather all Ihe necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as It
will
drain better, and more built-up sludge will
be
removed with it. Tske care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants end other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it Is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly Improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that
the
vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug Is at the lowest point. 3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn using an Allen key. Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove
the plug
completely (see Haynes Hint). 4 Allow some time for the old oil to dram, noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the
container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, then clean the area around the drain plug opening and refit
(MB
HiNT '
Keep the drain plug pressed Into the sump white unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream
of
oil Issuing from the sump runs into the container, net up your sleeve.
the plug. Tighten the plug securely. 6 It the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under tho oil filter, which is located on the front right-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew It by hand the rest of the way. Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has. carefully remove It. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only • do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle then lower the vehicle to the ground (if applicable).
3.6 Oil filter location (viewed from above)
11 Remove the dipstick, then pull out the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour In half the specified quantity of oil first, then wail a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. 12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes: check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before (he pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle In the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the reference Sections of this manual.
Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
4 Brake warning lamp ag operation check J§
1 With the ignition key inserted and turned to the MAR position, open the bonnet and depress the button on the top of the brake ftuid reservoir cap (see illustration). 2 As the button is depressed, the brake warning lamp on the instrument panel should Illuminate. 3 If the lamp fails to illuminate, check the operation of the level switch using a continuity tester, then refer to Chapter 12, Section 5, wd check the instrument panel bulb.
5 Front brake pad check
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels, 2 Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the friction material of the brake pads on both front brakes- This must not be less than 1.5 mm. Check the thickness of the pad friction material through the hole on the front of the caliper (see illustration). 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads 4.1 Depress the button on the top of the brake fluid reservoir cap

Every 20 000 miles - petrol models ia-h
clearance within specification. For example, if the measured valve clearance was 1.27 mm too great, a shim thicker by this amount will be required. Conversely, if the clearance was 1.27 mm too small, a shim thinner by this amount will be required. 13 Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved on them; although the engraved side should be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still occurs and often obliterates the number. In this case, measuring their thickness with a metric micrometer is the only method to establish their thickness (see illustration). t4 In practice, if several shims have to be changed, they can often be interchanged, so avoiding the necessity of having to buy more new shims than is necessary. 15 If more than two or three valve clearances are found to be incorrect, it will be more convenient to remove the camshaft for easier removal of the shims. 16 Where no clearance can be measured, even with the thinnest available shim in position, the valve will have to be removed and the end of its stem ground off squarely. This will reduce its overall length by the minimum amount to provide a clearance. This job should be entrusted to your dealer as it is important to keep the end of the valve stem square. 17 On completion, refit the camshaft cover and gasket, air cleaner and duct, and spark plugs. 18 lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Manifold mounting check
Refer
1O
Chapters 4A. 48 and 4D and check tne tightness of the nuts and bolts securing the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
17
Fuel
filter renewal I I
Warning: Before carrying out the !\ f°llow'n9 operation, refer to the precautions given In Safety firstI A
15.13 Shim thickness is marked on the tower face (here 4.20 mm) at the beginning of this manual, and follow them Implicitly. Petrol Is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. Note: 1242 cc (8-vatve) engine mode's from 1998 onwards are equipped with a modified fuel system incorporating a fuel fitter integral with the fuel pump. On these engines fuel filter renewal is not required. 1 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, on the right-hand side of the fuel tank (see illustration). To gain access to the filter, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Unscrew the bolt securing the filter to its support bracket. 3 Noting the fitted position of the filter body, release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. The correct position is indicated by an arrow marked on ihe filter body 4 Remove the filter from the vehicle. Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly flammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. 5 Locate the new filter into position, ensuring that the arrow on the filter body is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, as noted when removing the old filter. The flow direction can otherwise be determined by tracing the fuel hoses back along their length. 6 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter and lighten the clips, then locate it in the support bracket and tighten the mounting bolt.
17.1 Fuel filter location on tho right-hand side of the fuel tank 7 Start the engine, check the filter hose connections for leaks, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
18 Air fitter renewal
I
f f 08 cc and 1242 cc (8-valve) engines 1 Prise open the spring clips and withdraw the air cleaner cover a little way from the main body (see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 2 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 3 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean. 4 Fit a new air filter element In position, ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 5 Refit the air cleaner top cover and snap the retaining clips into position.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines 6 Undo the three bolts securing the front of Ihe air cleaner cover to the main body. Lift the cover up at the front, disconnect the rear retainers and move it clear of the main body {see illustration). Leave the cover attached to the hot air tube and inlet duct. 7 Lift out the filter element (see illustration). 8 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner and wipe the inner surfaces clean.
18.1 Prise open the spring clips... . and remove the filter element (8-valve engines)
18.6 Undo the three bolts (arrowed) and disconnect the air cleaner cover rear retainers (16-vatve engines)