Exhaust pipe FIAT PUNTO 1998 176 / 1.G Owner's Manual

4A*2 Fuel system -
single-point
petrol Injection models
2.8 Undo tho two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover
8 Undo the two bolts securing the resonator to the camshaft cover (see illustration) 9 Release ihe wiring loom support clip from the slot on the side of the resonator lower extension, then lift the resonator off the camshaft cover (see illustrations). Disconnect Ihe crankcase breather hose from the underside of tho resonator and remove the resonator from the engine. 10 Undo the nuts secunng the sides of the air cleaner to the mounting brackets at the front of the engino. 11 Release the hose clip and disconnect the inlet air duct from the throttle body. 12 Release the crankcase ventifation hose from the pipe stub on the camshaft cover then remove the air cleaner and inlet air duct assembly from the engine (see illustration).
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal but renew the air cleaner element as described In Chapter
1 A,
if necessary.
Inlet air temperature regulator -liWfii' I
2.9o Release the wiring support clip (arrowed) from the slot on the resonator lower extension ...
the shroud on the exhaust manifold. Next, warm up tho engine and check that the flap moves to admit only cold air from the Inlet duct. If the unit is faulty it must be renewed. 2 Remove the air cleaner element as described in Chapter
1
A. 3 Unscrew tha retaining screw and remove tho regulator from the air cleaner outer section.
Refitting 4 Rofitting is a reversal of removal.
I
Removal 1 The thermostatically-controlled cold air flop opener, fitted to 8-valve engines, is located in the air cleaner outer cos>ng section. To check lha unit, disconnect the atr inlet duct with the engine cold and use a mirror to check that the flap Is positioned to admit only not air from
2.12 Removing the air cleaner and Inlet air duct assembly
4 Accelerator cable -removal, refitting and adjustment
1242 cc (8-valve) engines
Removal 1 Remove Ihe air cleaner as described In Section 2. 2 To release the cable from the throttle body, unscrew the outer cable locknuls, then disengage the inner cable from the throttle cam, and release the outer cable from its mounting bracket, 3 Wording under the instrument panel inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from tho fork at the top of the pedal arm. 4 Release the bulkhead grommel and withdraw tho accelerator cable from inside Ihe engine compartment. Refitting and adjustment 5 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but ad|ust the cable (by means of the outer cable locknuts} so that there Is only a very small amount of free play present at the throttle body end of the inner cablo. Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal and check that the throttlo cam opens fully and returns to the at-rest position, then securely tighten the cable locknuts.
1242 cc (16-valve) engines
Removal 6 Dlsconnoel the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual), 7 Remove the resonator, air cleaner and Inlet air duct as described in Section 2.
camshaft cover
8 Undo the engine management ECU mounting bracket bolts, release the ECU wiring loom from Ihe support clips and move tho ECU and wiring loom to one side for access to the accelerator cable. 9 Free the accelerator inner cable from the throttle cam, remove the outer cable spring clip, then pull the outer cable out from its mounting bracket rubber grommet (see illustration). 10 Trace the cable back to its entry point in the engine compartment bulkhead and undo the bulkhead support bracket mounting bolt. 11 Working back along the length of the cable, free It from any retaining clips or ties, noting its correct routing. 12 Working under the instrument panel Inside the vehicle, unhook the cable from the fork at the top of the pedal arm. 13 Release the bulkhead support bracket and withdraw the accelerator cable from inside the engino compartment. Refitting end adjustment
14 Refitting is a reverse of the removal process, but adjust the cable as follows before refitting the outer cable spring clip. 16 Ensuring that the throttle cam is fully against its stop, gently pull the cable out of its grommet until all free play Is removed from the inner cable. 16 With the cable held in this position, lit the spring clip to tho first outer cable groove visible in front of the mounting brackot rubber grommet. This should leave a small amount of freeplay in tho inner cable which is necessary to ensure correct throttle operation.
4.9 Accelerator outer cable spring clip (arrowed)

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
Torque wrench settings Nm Ibfft Fuel injection pump roar bracket .. . 29 21 Fuel Injection pump .... 25 18 Fuel Injectors 41 Fuel pipe union nuts .... 30 22 Inlet manifold .... 24 18 Lower oil tiller mounting and injection pump mounting nut ..... .... 71 S2 Turbocnarger to exhaust manifold .... <10 30 Upper Dtl filter mounting end injection pump mounting nut 98 72
1 General information and precautions
General information The fuel system consists of a rear-mounted fust tank, a fuel filter with integral water separator, a fuel injection pump, in|eciors and associated components. A turbocharger is fitted to TDS, TD and TDSX models. Fuel Is drawn from the fuel tank to the fuel Injection pump by a vane-type transfer pump Incorporated in the fuel injection pump. Before reaching tho pump, the fuel passes through a fuel filter, where foreign matter and water aro removed. Excess fuel lubricates the moving components of the pump, and Is then returned to the tank. On turbo models with the Bosch fuel Injection systom, an eiectncally operated heater is incorporated In the fuel filter housing. The fuel injection pump is driven at half-crankshaft speed by the timing belt. The nigh pressure required to inject tho fuel into the compressed air in the swirl chambers Is achlovod by a cam plate acting on a single piston on the Bosch pumo, or by two opposed pistons forced together by rollers running in a cam ring on the Lucas (CAV) pump. Tlie fuel passes through acentral rotor with a single outlet drilling which aligns With ports leading to the Injector pipes. Fuel metering is controlled by a centrifugal governor, which reacts to accelerator pedal
position end engine speed. The governor is linked lo a metering valve, which increases or decreases the amount of fuel delivered at each pumping stroke. On turbocharged models, a separate device also Increases luel delivery with increasing boost pressure. Basic injection timing is determined when the pump is fitted. When the engine is running, it Is varied automatically to suit the prevailing engine speed by a mechanism which turns the cam plate or ring, Tho four fuel injectors proouco a homogeneous spray of fuel Into the swirl chambers located In the cylinder head. The Injectors are calibrated to open end close at critical pressures lo provide efficient and even combustion. Each injector needle is lubricated by fuel, which accumulates In the spring chamber and is channelled to the injection pump return hose by loak-off pipes Bosch or Lucas fuel system components mBy be fitted, depending on the model. Components from the latter manufacturer are marked either CAV. Roto-dlesel or Con-diesel. depending on their date and place of manufacture. With the exception of the fuel filter assembly, replacement components must be of tho same make as those originally fitted. Cold starting is assisted by preheater or glow plugs fitted to each swirl chamber. On the Bosch injection pump, an automatic cold Injection advance device operated through a thermal switch, advances the injection timing by Increasing the fuel pressure. The device operates at coolant temperatures below 55° C,
A stop solenoid cuts the fuel supply to V* Injection pump rotor when the ignition i switched off (see illustration) Provided that the specified maintenance* earned out. the fuel injection equipment #» give long and trouble-free service, ft* j injection pump itself may well outlast tlx ' engine, The main potential cause of damage j to the injection pump and injectors is dirt e water in the fuel. 1 Servicing of the injection pump and injectwi: j, is very limited for tho home mechanic, antf dismantling or adjustment other than thtf described In this Chapter must be entrusted to ' a Rat dealer or fuel Injection specialist.
Precautions

A


Warning: It Is necessary to takt I certain precautions when woriong , on the fuel system component^ particularly the fuel Injectors. Befon carrying out any operations on tho fuel system, refer to the precautions given* Safety first! at the beginning of Mis manual, and to any additional wamlrq notes at the start of the relevant
Sections.

2 Air cleaner and inlet system ^ • removal and refitting S
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner element u described In Chapter 1B (see illustration).
1.9 Stop solenoid on the injection pump 2.1 Releasing the air cleaner cover clips

Fuel system - diesel models
4C*3

9.9 Removing the fire seal washor 9.13 Tightening an injector with a torque wrench
Refitting 10 Obtain new fire seal washers. 11 Take care not to drop the Injectors, or tfow the needles at their tips to become damaged. The injectors are prectsion-mado to Ine knits, and must not be handled roughly. In particular, never mount them in a bench vice. 12 Commence refitting by inserting the fire
seal
washers {convex face uppermost}. 13 Insert the injectors and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 14 Refit the injector pipes and tighten the union nuts. Make sure the pipe clamps are in Iteir previously-noted positions. If the clamps
are
wrongly positioned or missing, problems may be expenenced with pipes breaking or splitting,
15 Reconnect the leak-off pipes. 16 Refit the air ducting. 17 Start the engine, and check for any leakage at the fuel unions. To enable the engine to start it may be necessary to loosen the Injector union nuts while turning the engine on the starter motor in order to purge trapped air.
10 Fuel gauge sender unit -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A, hov/ever note that the unit does not Incorporate a pump (see illustrations).
11 Fuel tank -removal and refitting
Refer to Chapter 4A, however note that in addition a safety valve with an anti-roll device is fitted in the top of the tank with a ventilation pipe to the front of the tank. The fuel gauge sender unit does not Incorporate a pump as this unit is located In the injection pump.
12 Inlet manifold - ^ removal and refitting %
Note: The Inlet and exhaust manifolds are both located on the rear of the engine and share the same securing bolts and gasket. Although the following procedure describes removal of the Inlet manifold separately it may be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold as well In order to renew the gasket.
Removal 1 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as described in Section 2. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of the engine. 3 On turbo models disconnect the air duct from the inlet manifold elbow. If necessary the elbow can be unbolted from the manifold and the sealing ring removed. 4 Unscrew the nuts securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder head noting the position of the support bracket. Note lhat some of the nuts also secure the exhaust manifold. Withdraw the inlet manifold from the studs (see illustrations), 5 Examine the gasket. If It is damaged it will be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold in order to renew it.
Refitting 6 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, but tighten all nuts and bolts lo the specified torque.
12.4c Removing the Inlet manifold

Fuel system - diesel models 4C*3
14.6 Nuts securing the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold 14.8 Disconnecting the oil return pipe from tho turbocharger
13 Turbocharger -description and precautions
Description A turbocharger 1$ fitted to TDS, TD and SX models. It increases engine efficiency by raising the pressure In the inlet manifold above atmospheric pressure. Instead of the air simply being sucked Into the cylinders. It Is forced in. Additional fuel is supplied by the injection pump in proportion to the increased air inlet. Energy for the operation of the turbocharger comes from the exhaust gas. The gas flows through a specially-shaped housing (the turbine housing) and In so doing, spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is attached lo a shaft, at the end of which is another vaned wheel known as the compressor wheel, The compressor wheel spins in Its own housing, snd compresses the inlet air on the way to the inlet manifold. Boost pressure (the pressure in the Inlet manifold) is limited by a wastegate, which diverts Ihe exhaust gas away from the turbine wheel In response to a pressure-sensitive actuator. A pressure-operaled switch operates a warning light on the instrument panel in the event of excessive boost pressure developing. The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by an oil feed pipe from the main oil gallery The shaft floats on a cushion of oil. A drain pipo returns the oil to the sump.
Precautions The turbocharger operates at extremely high speeds and temperatures. Certain precautions must be observed, to avoid premature failure of the turbo, or injury to the operator. Do not operate the turbo with any of its parts exposed, or with any of ils hoses removed. Foreign objects falling onto the rotating vanes could cause excessive
damage, and (if ejected) personal injury. Do not race the engine immediately after start-up, especially if it Is cold. Give the oil a few seconds lo circulate. Always allow the engine to return to idle speed before switching il off - do not blip the throttle and switch off, as this will leave the turbo spinning without lubrication. Allow the engine to idle lor several minutes before switching off after a high-speed run. Observe the recommended intervals for oil and filter changing, and use a reputable oil of the specified quality. Neglect of oil changing, or use of Inferior oil, can cause carbon formation on the turbo shaft, leading to subsequent failure.
14 Turbocharger -removal and refitting
8 Disconnect the oil return pipe from the turbocharger (see Illustration). 9 Unscrew the bolt securing the mounting bracket to the cyfindar block. 10 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw the turbocharger from the studs in Ihe exhaust manifold. Recover the gasket. II It Is to be refitted, store the turbocharger carefully, and plug its openings to prevent dirt ingress.
Refitting 11 Refitting Is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the fallowing points: a) if a new turbocharger Is being fitted, change the engine oil and filter. b) Tighten ail nuts and bolts to the specified torque. c) Before starting the engine, prime the turbo lubrication circuit by disconnecting the stop solenoid iead at the injection pump, and cranking the engine on the starter for three ten-second bursts.
Removal 1 Remove the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 2 Unbolt and remove the relay guard and bracket from the left-hand side of Ihe engine. 3 Remove the air cleaner and ducting as descnbed in Section 2. 4 Loosen the clips and remove the air outlet duct between tho turbocharger and inlet manifold. Also disconnect the air inlet duct from the turbocharger. 6 Appty the handbrake, then jack up tho front of the vohicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 6 Bend back the locking tabs (if fitted) and unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust downpipe lo the exhaust manifold (see Illustration). Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust system (refer to Part 4D) end remove it from under the vehicle. Recover tne gasket. 7 Unscrew ihe union nut and disconnect the oil supply pipe from the turbocharger. Recover the copper ring and tape over the end of the pipe 10 prevent dust entry.
15 Turbocharger -examination and renovation l
1 With the turbocharger removed, inspect the housing for cracks or other visible damage. 2 Spin the turbine or the compressor wheel, to verify that the shaft is intact and to feel for excessive shake or roughness. Some play is normal, since in use, the shaft is floating on a film of oil. Check that the wheel vanes are undamaged. 3 The wastegate and actuator are Integral, and cannot be checked or renewed separately. Consul! a Flat dealer or other specialist If it is thought that testing or renewal is necessary. 4 If tho exhaust or induction passages are ail* contaminated, Ihe turbo shaft oil seals have probably failed. 6 No DIY repair of the turbo is possible. A new unit may be available on an exchange basis,

4D«1
Chapter 4 Part D:
Exhaust and emission control systems
Contents
Catalytic converter - general Information and precautions 7 Crankcase emission system • general information 3 Evaporative loss emission control system • information and component renewal 2
Degrees of difficulty
Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting 5 Exhaust system - general information and component renewal .... 6 General information 1 Lambda oxygen sensor - removal and refitting 4

Easy, suitable
tor novice with fittie ^
1 experience
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with ^ some experience ^
Fairiy dfficult, lb suitable for competent ^ DIY mechanic ^
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY ^ mechanic
Very difficult, ^ suitable far expert DIY or professional
Specifications
Torque wrench settings Exhaust down pipe to manifold Exhaust manifold Exhaust system mounting Exhaust to catalytic converter: M8 M10x1.25
Nm Ibfft 24 18 24 18 27 20
24 18 40 30 53 39
1 General information
Emission control systems All petrol engine models use unleaded petrol and are controlled by engine management systems that are 'tuned' to give the best compromise between driveability. luel consumption and exhaust emission production. In addition, a number of systems are fitted that help to minimise other harmful emissions: a crankcase emission-control system (petrol models only) that reduces the release of pollutants from the crankcase, an evaporative loss emission control system (petrol models only) to reduce the release of hydrocarbons from the fuel tank, a catalytic converter (petrol and diesel models) to reduce exhaust gas pollutants, and an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (turbo diesel models only) to reduce exhaust emissions. Crankcase emission control To reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase Into the atmosphere, the engine is sealed and the blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from inside the crankcase, through a flame trap.
into the inlet tract to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. Under conditions of high manifold depression (idling, deceleration) the gases will by sucked positively out of the crankcase. Under conditions of low manifold depression (acceleration, full-throttle running) ihe gases are forced out of the crankcase by the (relatively) higher crankcase pressure: if the engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure (due to increased blow-by) will cause some of the flow to return under all manifold conditions. Exhaust emission control -petrol models To minimise the amount of pollutants which escape Into the atmosphere, a catalytic converter is fitted In the exhaust system. The fuel system is of the closed-loop type, in which a Lambda (or oxygen) sensor In the exhaust system provides the engine management system ECU with constant feedback, enabling the ECU to adjust the air/fuel mixture to optimise combustion. The Lambda sensor has a heating element built-in that Is controlled by the ECU through the Lambda sensor relay to quickly bring the sensor's tip to Its optimum operating temperature. The sensor's tip Is sensitive to oxygen and relays a voltage signal to the ECU
that varies according on the amount of oxygen In the exhaust gas. If the inlet air/fuel mixture is too rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen so the sensor sends a low-voltage signal, the voltage rising as the mixture weakens and the amount of oxygen rises In the exhaust gases. Peak conversion efficiency of all major pollutants occurs if the inlet air/fuel mixture Is maintained at the chemlcally-con*ect ratio for the complete combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to
1
part of fuel (the stoichiometric ratio). The sensor output voltage alters in a large step at this point, the ECU using the signal change as a reference point and correcting the Inlet air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel Injector pulse width. Exhaust emission control -diesel models An oxidation catalyst is fitted in the exhaust system of all diesel engine models. This has the effect of removing a large proportion of the gaseous hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide and particulates present in the exhaust gas. An Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Is fitted to all turbo diesel engine models. This reduces the level of nitrogen oxides produced during combustion by Introducing a proportion of the exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold, under certain engine operating

4D*2 Exhaust and emission control systems
2.2 Charcoal canister location behind tho right-hand headlight
conditions, via a plunger valve, The system is controlled electronically by means of an emissions system control unit. Evaporative emission control • petrol models To minimise the escape of unburned hydrocarbons Into the atmosphere, an evaporallve loss emission control system is fitted to petrol models, The fuel tank filler cap Is sealed and a charcoal canister is mounted underneath the right-hand headlamp to collect the petrol vapours released from the fuel contained In the fuel tank. It stores them until they can be drawn from the canister (under the control of the fuel Injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge valve into the Inlet tract, where they are then burned by the engine during normal combustion. To ensure thai the engine runs correctly when it is cold and/or idling and to protect the catalytic converter from the effects of an over-rich mixture, the purge control valve is not opened by the ECU until the engine has warmed up, and the engine is under load; the valve solenoid is then modulated on and off to allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet tract.
Exhaust systems The exhaust system comprises the exhaust manifold, an exhaust downpipe, • catalytic convorter, an intermediate pipe with silencer, and a tailpipe with silencer, On turbo diesel models the turbocharger is fitted between ihe exhaust manifold and the downpipe.
5.5a On 16-valve engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield...
2 Evaporative loss emission ^ control system - information and component renewal ^
Information 1 The evaporative loss omission control system consists of the control solenoid (or purge valve), the activated charcoal filter canister and a series of connecting vacuum hoses. 2 The control solenoid and charcoal canister are both mounted on the right-hand side of the engine compartment behind the headlight (see illustration).
Component renewal
Control solenoid 3 With the bonnet open, disconnect the hoses from the control solenoid on the top of the charcoal canister. 4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the solenoid. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Charcoal canister 6 Remove Ihe control solenoid as desenbed previously. 7 Disconnect Ihe fuel tonk hose from the canister 8 Detach the mounting and remove the canister. 9 Refitting Is a reversal of removal. Multifunction valve 10 The multifunction valve >s mounted on top of the luel tank. Removal and refitting is similar to that described for the tank sender gauge/pump (refer to Chapter 4A or 4B).
3 Crankcase emission system - general information
The crankcase emission control system consists of a hose from the camshaft cover to the air cloanor with a branch to Ihe throttle body. The main hose Incorporates a flame trap and the Inlet to the throttle body incorporates a calibrated hole.
5.5b ... then remove the bracket
The system requires no attention other than to check at regular intervals that tho hoses are free of blockages and undamaged.
4 Lambda oxygen sensor -removal and refitting &
Note: 7?5e Lambda oxygen sensor is doiicata and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, it its power supply is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are used on it.
Removal 1 The sensor Is threaded Into the exhaust front downpipe. Access if best gained Irom underneath the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then )ack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 2 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector located on the front of the engine. 3 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the sensor, taking care to avoid damaging the sensor probe as it Is removed- Note: As a flying lead remains connected to the sensor after it has been disconnected, if the correct spanner is not available, a slotted socket
will
be required to remove the sensor.
Refitting A Apply a little anti-selze grease to (he sensor threads • avoid contaminating the probe tip. 5 Refit the sensor to the downpipe. tightening it to the correct torque. Reconnect the wiring. 6 Lower the vohicle to the ground.
5 Exhaust manifold - % removal and refitting jk
Petrol models
Removal 1 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, remove tho air cleaner and inlet system components as described in Chapter 48. 2 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jock up the front of the car and support It securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring or alternatively romovo Ihe sensor completely. 4 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipo from Ihe exhaust manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 5 On 1242 cc (16-valve) engines, undo the bolts and remove the manifold heat shield, then remove the bracket at the timing belt end of the manifold (seo Illustrations). 6 Unscrew the mounting nuts, remove the washers, and recover any additional brackets fitted over the studs, noting their locations. Withdraw the manifold from the studs on the cylinder head. 7 Recover the gaskets from Ihe studs.

4D*3 Exhaust and emission control systems
Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal pro-cedure but fit new gaskets. Tighten the nuts lo the specified torque.
Diesel models Note: On diesel models the inlet and exhaust
manifolds
are located on the rear of the engine
end
share the same securing nuts and gasket. Removal 8 Remove the inlet manifold as described In Part
C
of this Chapter. 10 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up lite front of tho car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 11 Straighten the tab washers (where fitted), then unscrew and remove the exhaust downpipe retaining nuts. Detach the downpipe from the manifold/turbocharger. Suitably support the downpipe. 12 Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head securing nuts and withdraw the manifold (see Illustration). 13 Separate the turbocharger from the manifold with reference to Chapter 4C. 14 Remove the gasket and clean the mating
(aces
of the manifold, cylinder head and down-pipe flange (see illustration). The gasket must
be
renewed when refitting the manifold, Refitting
15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure but fit a new gasket. Tighten the retaining nuts to the specified torque and where necessary lock them by bending over
the
tocktabs.
6 Exhaust system - % general information and ^ component renewal
Genera/ Information 1 A three section exhaust system is fitted consisting of a twin-branch front downpipe, a catalytic converter, and a tailpipe with two silencers. The downpipe-to-manifold and downpipe-to-catalytic converter joints are both of flange and gasket type, whereas the remaining joint Is of the sleeve type secured
witn
a clamp ring (see illustration). 2 The system is suspended throughout its entire length by rubber mountings.
Removal 3 Each exhaust section can be removed individually or, alternatively, the complete system can be removed as a unit. Where separation of the rear sleeve Joint is necessary, it may be more practical to remove
the
entire system rather than try and separate
the Joint
In position. 4 To remove the system or part of the system, first jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and nhlcle support), Alternatively position the
vehicle
over an inspection pit or on car ramps.
5.12 Removing the exhaust manifold (diesel engine) Downpipe 5 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. Where applicable on petrol models, refer to Section 4 and remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe. 6 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to tha catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 7 Bend back the locktabs (where fitted) then unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold/turbocharger. and lower the downpipe, Recover the gasket. Catalytic converter
8 Support the tailpipe section of the exhaust using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 9 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the downpipe to the catalytic converter, then separate the joint and recover the gasket. 10 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the converter from the tailpipe section. 11 Release the mounting rubber and remove the converter from under the vehicle. Tailpipe and silencers 12 Support the catalytic converter using an axle stand or blocks of wood. 13 Unscrew the clamp bolt and separate the catalytic converter from the tailpipe section. 14 Release the tailpipe section from its mounting rubbers and remove from under the vehicle. Complete system 15 Disconnect the downpipe from the ex-haust manifold as described in paragraph 7.
6.1 Exhaust clamp ring securing the tailpipe to the front exhaust system
5.14 Removing the oxhaust manifold gasket (diesel engine) 16 With the aid of an assistant, free the system from all its mounting rubbers and manoeuvre it out from underneath the vehicle. Heatshield 17 The heatshield is secured to the underbody by bolts and Is easily removed once the exhaust system has been removed.
Refitting 18 Each section is refitted by a reverse of the removal sequence, noting the following points. a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have been removed from the flanges and renew ail necessary gaskets. b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs of damage or deterioru tion and renew
as
necessary. c) Before refitting the tailpipe joint, smear some exhaust system jointing paste to the joint mating surfaces to ensure an air-tight seal. Tighten the clamp bolt. d) Prior to fully tightening the rear joint damp, ensure that all rubber mountings are correctly /ocafed and that there is adequate clearance between the exhaust system and vehicle underbody.
7 Catalytic converter -general information and precautions
The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance In itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.
Petrol models a) DO NOT use leaded petrot In a car equipped with a catalytic converter - Ihe lead will coat the precious metals, redudng their converting efficiency
and
will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer's schedule. c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little
as
possible) until the fault is cured.

Manual transmission 7A*3
3,8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting bolts, release the slave cylinder pushrod from the re&ase arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side.
7 Unscrew and remove the reverse gear Inhibiting device from the transmission. Tie the cable to one side out of the way. 8 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission (see illustration). 9 Pull out the clip then disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever and release the cable from the mounting bracket (see illustrations). 10 Unscrew and remove the two upper transmisslon-to-englne mounting bolts. Unscrew the single bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 11 Remove the air cleaner and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4A or 4B. This Is necessary In order to fit the engine hoist 12 On 5-speed transmissions, trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side of the engine (see illustration). 13 On 6-speed transmissions, unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing. 14 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley jack and block of wood beneath Ihe engine. 15 Unscrew the Lambda/oxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position It In a safe place to prevent damage. 16 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower It and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 17 Unbolt the support bracket from the engine and transmission. Recover the spacer plate. 18 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover, 19 Unscrew the remaining starter motor mounting bolts and support tho starter motor to one side. 20 Loosen and remove the clips securing the left- and right-hand driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts.
3.9a Remove the clip to release the gear engagement cable 21 Unscrew and remove the boils securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 22 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and disconnect the inner end of the dnveshaft from the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the garters. 23 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the botts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 24 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to Ihe body then unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 25 Support the woight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the belihousing and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle. A Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that it remains steady on the jack head. Keep the transmission levet until the Input shaft Is fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate. Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the clutch friction plate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
3.12 Electronic speedometer sensor fitted to 5-speed transmissions
3.9b Removing the gear engagement cable from the mounting bracket b) Tighten all bolts to Ihe specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
Diesel models
Removal 27 Seloct a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of tho vehicle and support on axlo stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels. 28 Unbolt the relay support then remove the batlery and mounting tray as described in Chapter 5A. 29 On models with a cable operated clutch, unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the end of the clutch cable and disconnect the cable from the transmission. Recover the damper block. On models with a hydraulically operated clutch, unscrew the mounting botts. release the slave cylinder pushrod from the release arm on the transmission, then position the cylinder to one side, 30 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the gear selector rod from the lever on the transmission. 31 Disconnect the gear engagement cable from the control lever then slide out the clip and release the cable from the mounting bracket. 32 Unbolt the electronic rev counter sensor from the upper rear of the belihousing and position it to one side (see illustration).
3.32 Electronic rev counter sensor located in the upper rear of the belihousing

7A«4 Manual transmission
33 Remove lha air cleaner front section and air ducting with reference to Chapter 4C. Also disconnect the injection pump vacuum pipe from the clips on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. This work is necessary in order to fit the engine hoist 34 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively use a trolley Jack and block of wood beneath the engine. 35 Unscrew the nuts securing the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, then lower it and support on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 36 Unscrew the starter motor mounting bolts and support the starter motor to one side. 37 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing light switch on the front of the transmission. 38 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the earth cable from its stud. 39 Trace the wiring back from the electronic speedometer sensor and disconnect the connector located on the left-hand side ot the engine. If a mechanical speedometer Is fitted unscrew the knurled collar and disconnect the cabte from the transmission. 40 Unbolt and remove the transmission lower cover. 41 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the inner end of the left-hand driveshaft to the transmission flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 42 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 43 Move the swrvel hub assembly outwards and support the driveshaft away from Ihe transmission. 44 Using an Allen key unscrew the bolts securing the Inner end of the right-hand driveshaft to the intermediate shaft flange. Remove the bolts and recover the spacer plates. Support the driveshaft on an axle stand. 45 Remove the intermediate driveshaft with reference to Chapter 8. 46 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting to the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle.
47 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body then unscrew Ihe bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 48 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolts from the bellhousing and pull the transmission away from the engine.

A


Warning: Support the trans-mission to ensure that It remains steady o/i the jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft
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fully withdrawn from the clutch friction plate.
Refitting 48 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a) Appiy a smear* of high-meiting-point grease to the clutch friction piate splines; take care to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. b) Tighten all bolts to the specified torque. c) Fit new clips to secure the driveshaft gaiters to the transmission output shafts. d) Adjust the clutch cable (where applicable) as described In Chapter 6.
4 Manual transmission overhaul -general Infomtatlon
Overhauling a manual transmission is a difficult and Involved Job for the DIY home mechanic. In addition to dismantling and reassembling many small parts, clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed by selecting shims and spacers. Internal transmission components are also often difficult to obtain, and in many Instances, extremely expensive. Because of this, If the transmission develops a fault or becomes noisy. Ihe best course of action is to have the unit overhauled by a specialist repairer, or to obtain an exchange reconditioned unit. Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the more experienced mechanic to overhaul the transmission, provided the special tools are available, and the Job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner, so that nothing is overlooked.
The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external clrclip pliers, bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a sat of pin punches, a dial test Indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy workbench 8od a vice will be required. During dismantling o1 the transmission, make careful notes of how each component
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fitted, to make reassembly easier and more accurate. Before dismantling the transmission, it will help if you have some idea what area is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely related to specific areas In the transmission, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Fault Finding Section at the end of this manual for more Information.
5 Reversing light switch -testing, removal and refitting ||
Testing 1 The reversing light circuit is controlled by a plunger-type switch screwed into the front of the transmission casing. If a fault develops, first ensure that Ihe circuit fuse has not blown. 2 To test the switch, disconnect the wiring connector, and use a multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a battery-and-bulb test circuit to check that there is continuity between the switch terminals only when reverse gear is selected. If this is not the case, and there are no obvious breaks or other damage to the wires, the switch is faulty, and must be renewed.
Removal 3 Access to the reversing light switch Is best achieved from under the vehicle. Apply the handbrake then jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Disconnect the wiring connector, then unscrew It from the transmission casing.
Refitting 5 Refit the switch and tighten securely. 6 Reconnect the wiring then lower the vehicle to the ground.

7B*4 Automatic transmission
2 Automatic transmission - ^ removal and refitting St
Removal 1 Select a solid, level surface to park the vehicle upon. Give yourself enough space to move around it easily. Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front wheels, 2 Remove the battery and mounting tray as described In Chapter 5A. 3 Remove the air cleaner and air inlet duct as described In Chapter 4A. 4 Disconnect the kickdown cable at the sector on the throttle housing and detach It from the mounting on the camshaft cover. Also release the cable from the support on the left-hand end of the cylinder head. 5 Disconnect the wiring connectors on the transmission. 6 Disconnect the fluid inlet and outlet Unas from the heat exchanger on top of the transmission. 7 Pull the fluid level dipstick from Its tube on the front of the transmission and tape over the top of the tube to prevent dirt entry. 8 Unscrew and remove the retaining pin and disconnect the speed selector cable from the top of the transmission. 9 Unscrew the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the transmission. 10 Unscrew the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 11 Support the weight of the engine using a hoist attached to the engine lifting eyes, or alternatively UBO a trolley jack and block of wood beneath the engine, 12 Remove the screws and remove the front wheel arch liner from under the left-hand wheel arch. 13 Unscrew the nut securing the earth cablo to the transmission. 14 Using a punch drive out the roll pins securing both driveshafts to the final drive output shafts. 15 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the left-hand swivel hub assembly to the front suspension strut, then separate the components and support the swivel hub on an axle stand. 16 Move the swivel hub assembly outwards and slide the inner end of the driveshaft from the splines on the transmission output shaft. Support the shaft away from the transmission to prevent damage to the gaiters. 17 Unscrew the lambdafoxygen sensor from the exhaust downpipe and position it In a safe place to prevent damage. 18 Unscrew ihe nuts securing the downpipe to Ihe exhaust manifold, then lower It and suppon on an axle stand. Recover the gasket. 19 Unscrew the knurled nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top of the final drive housing.
3-2 Locking the flywheel when removing the electromagnetic clutch 20 Unscrew the remaining bolt securing the staner motor to the transmission 21 Unbolt and remove Ihe lower flywheel cover from the transmission. 22 Working beneath the vehicle, unscrew the bolts securing the rear engine mounting to the underbody then unscrew the bolts securing the mounting lo the transmission and withdraw the mounting assembly from under the vehicle. 23 Unscrew the bolts securing the left-hand engine/transmission mounting to the body thon unscrew the bolts from the transmission and remove the mounting. 24 Support the weight of the transmission on a trolley jack then unscrew the remaining nut and bolt from the bellhouslng and pull the transmission away from the engine. Lower it and remove from under the vehicle.

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Warning: Support the transmission to ensure that It remains steady on the Jack head. Keep the transmission level until the Input shaft and pump shaft are fully withdrawn from the electromagnetic clutch housing.
Refitting 25 Refitting is a reversal of the removal procedure, but note the following points. a} Apply a smear of high-melting-point grease to the splines of the transmission input shaft and oil pump driveshaft.
3.6 Checking the resistance of the clutch windings 1 Slip rings
0) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the
specified
torque, where given, c) Renew both driveshaft roll pins.
3 Electro-magnetic clutch • & removal, inspection 5. and refitting ^
Removal 1 Remove Ihe transmission as described n Section 2. 2 Turn the flywheel so that two of the lour mounting bolts are accessible, Hold tha flywheel stationary then unscrew Ihe tvrt bolts. To hold the flywheel, Insert a wida bladed screwdriver In the ring gear teeth or alternatively use a piece of angle iron against one of the retaining bolts temporarily Inserted in the cylinder block (see illustration). 3 Turn the crankshaft half a turn and unscrew the remaining bolts, then withdraw the electromagnetic clutch.
Inspection 4 Turn the driven element by means of tha slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough. 5 Inspect the slip rings for burning or other damage. Clean them if necessary using fid and a clean rag. 6 Check the resistance of the clutch windings, using an ohmmetor connected across the slip rings (see Illustration). The resistance at 20*0 should be 2 to 4 ohms. 7 Check the Insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either sip ring and the body of the clutch (see illustration). Resistance should be Infinity. 8 If the clutch fails any of the foregoing checks, renew it. Apart from the brush gear, Individual spares are not available.
Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal but tighten all bolts to the specified torque.
windings