power steering FIAT PUNTO 1999 176 / 1.G Owner's Manual
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Page 98 of 225
2D*10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
05 Remove the brush holder assembly from the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B, Section 4. The brushes bear on the slip rings at the rear of the electro-magnetic clutch housing and they may be damaged when the transmission is removed. 86 Unscrew and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts then carefully draw the transmission away from the engine, resting It securely on wooden blocks. Collect the locating dowels If they are loose enough to be extracted, 87 If the oil pump driveshaft remains engaged with the crankshaft, remove it and reert Into the transmission to protect It from damage.
Connection 86 If the engine and transmission have not been separated, go to paragraph 104. Manual transmission models 89 Smear a little high-melting-point grease
on
the splines of the transmission input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount as there Is the risk of contaminating the clutch friction plate. 90 Carefully offer up the transmission to the engine cylinder block, guiding the input shaft through the clutch friction plate. 91 Refit the transmission-to-engine bolts and
the
single nut. hand^jghtenlng 1hem to secure the transmission in position. Note: Do not hghten them to force the engine and transmission together. Ensure that the beilhousing and cylinder block mating faces will butt together evenly without obstruction, before finally tightening the bolts and nut securely. Automatic transmission models 92 Check that the oil pump driveshaft is correctly engaged with the oil pump in the transmission. 93 Carefully offer up the transmission to Ihe rear of the engine and insert the oil pump driveshaft In the centre of the electro-magnetic clutch housing. Locate the transmission on the locating dowels then Insert the bolts and tighten them securely. 94 Refit the brush holder assembly to the automatic transmission with reference to Chapter 7B, Section 4. Petrol engines 96 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. 96 Locate the support bracket on the lower cover, then insert the bolts hand-tight. Also Insert the bolts securing the bracket lo the rear of Ihe cylinder block. With all the bolts Inserted, tighten them securely. 97 Refit the earth leads and tighten the bolts. Diesel engines 98 Refit the rpm sensor and tighten the bolts. 99 Insert the Intermediate shaft through the bracket then locate the dust boot on it and insert the Inner end in the transmission.
100 Refit and tighten the bolts securing the Intermediate shaft to the bracket on the rear of the cylinder block. 101 Refit the transmission lower cover and tighten the bolts. Ail models 102 Refit the starter motor (see Chapter 5A). 103 Refit the wiring harness to the components on the engine/transmission assembly making sure it is routed correctly.
Refitting 104 Locate the engine/transmission assembly beneath the engine compartment and attach the hoist to the lifting eyes. 105 Carefully lift the assembly up into the engine compartment taking care not to damage the surrounding components. 106 Reconnect the left-hand engine/trans-mission mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 107 Reconnect Ihe right-hand engine mounting to the body and tighten the bolts. 108 Working beneath the vehicle, refit the rear engine mounting and tighten the bolts. 109 Disconnect the hoist from the engine and transmission lifting eyes and remove the hoist from under the vehicle. 110 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the direct reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points:
a) Ensure that alf sections of the wiring harness follow their original routing; use new cable-ties to secure the harness In position, keeping it away from sources
of
heat and abrasion. b) On vehicles with manual transmission check and if necessary adjust the gearchenge cable and rod with reference to Chapter 7A. c) On vehicles with automatic transmission use new ro//p/ns fo secure the driveshafts to the transmission output stubs. Also check and if necessary adjust the kickdown end selector cables with reference to Chapter 78. d) Ensure that afi hoses are correctly routed and are secured with the correct hose clips, where applicable. If the hose clips cannot be used again; proprietary worm drive clips should be fitted
In
their place. e) Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades and quantities of oil (Chapter
1A
or 1B). g) Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt(s) wfth reference fo Chapter 1A or 1B. h) Check and If necessary adjust the accelerator cable with reference to Chapter
AA,
48 or
AC.
i) When the engine is started for the first time, check for
air,
coolant, lubricant and fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If
the
engine has been overhauled, read
the
notes In Section 13 before attempting to starlit.
5 Engine overhaul • dismantling sequence
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine stand. These stands can often be hired from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be removed, so that the stand bolts can be tightened Into the end of the cylinder block/crankcase. 2 If a stand Is not available, it Is possible to dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a sturdy workbench, or on the floor, Be very careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned engine, all anclllarles must be removed first, to be transferred to the replacement engine (just as they will If you are doing a complete engine overhaul yourself). These components Include the following:
Petroi engines a) Power steering pump if removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator fmcluding mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter
SA).
c) The Ignition system and HT components including ail sensors, HT leads and
spark
plugs (Chapters 1A and
SB).
d) The fuel injection system components (Chapters A A and
AB).
e) All electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapters 4A, AB, SB). f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapters 4A, AB end
AD).
g) Engine oil dipstick and tube. h) Engine mountings (Chapter
2A).
i) Flywheef/driveptate (Chapter
2A).
j) Clutch components (Chapter
6)
- manual transmission. k) Electro-magnetic clutch components (Chapter 7B) - automatic transmission. I) Cooling system components (Chapter
3).
Diesei engines a) Power steering pump //removed with the engine (Chapter
10).
b) Alternator (Including mounting brackets) and starter motor (Chapter 5A). c) The glow plugfpre-heatlng system components (Chapter
SC).
d) Ait fuel system components, including the fuel injection pump, all sensors and actuators (Chapter
AC).
e) The vacuum pump. f) Ail electrical switches, actuators and sensors, and the engine wiring harness (Chapter 4C and 5C). g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and, where applicable, the turbocharger (Chapter
AC
and 4D). h) The engine oil level dipstick and its tube. i) Engine mountings (Chapter
2C).
Page 117 of 225
3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
4 If the motor operates when tested as described, (he fault must lie In the engine wring harness or the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor/switch can be tested as described in Section 6. Any further fault Diagnosis should be referred to a suitably-equipped Fiat dealer - do not attempt to test
Ihe
electronic control unit.
Removal 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/scon oecf/ng the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 On diesel engine models, unbolt the relay bracket from the side of the battery tray to improve access. On 1242 cc {16-valve) petrol engine models, remove the air cleaner and
inset
ducts as described in Chapter 4B. 1 Disconnect the motor wiring connectorfs). 8 Unbolt the shroud from the rear of the ratiator. then lift out the cooling fan assembly. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal
6 Cooling fan switch -testing, removal and refitting ^
Testing 1 The switch is threaded into the lower left
nand
comer of the radiator. 2 The switch can be tested by removing it,
and
checking that the switching action occurs
at
the correct temperature {heat the sensor in a container of water, and monitor the temperature with a thermometer). 3 There should be no continuity between the switch terminals, until Ihe specified cooling fan cut-In temperature Is reached, when continuity (and zero resistance) should exist between the terminals.
Removal 4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 5 Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1Aor 1B. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor.
bolts...
7 Carefully unscrew the sensor and. whore applicable, recover the sealing ring. Refitting 8 If the sensor was originally fitted using sealing compound, clean the sensor threads thoroughly, and coat them with fresh sealing compound. 9 If the sensor was originally fitted using a sealing ring, use a new sealing ring on refitting. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1A or 18. 11 On completion, start the engine and run it until it reaches normal operating temperature. Continue to run the engine until the cooling fan cuts in and out correctly.
7 Coolant pump • & removal, inspection 5 and refitting
Removal
Petrol engine models 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 2 Drain the cooling system and remove the auxiliary drivebett(s) as described In Chapter 1 A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 4 Unscrew the securing bolts/nuts, and withdraw the coolant pump (see illustrations).
7.9b ... and lift off the pulley (diesel engine)
(petrol engine) If the pump Is stuck, tap it gently using a soft-faced mallet - do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Diesel engine models 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to D/s connecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 6 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1B. 7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as descnbed In Chapter 1B. 6 On models fitted with power steenng, refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump from its mountings; this can be achieved without disconnecting the power steering fluid hoses from the pump. Tie the pump away from the work area, taking care to avoid kinking the fluid hoses. 9 Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove the coolant pump pulley. It will be necessary to counterhold the pulley In order to unscrew the bolts, and this is most easily achieved by wrapping an old drivebelt tightly around the pulley to act in a similar manner to a strap 3 wrench. Alternatively, a stout screwdriver can be braced between two of the pulley bolts while the third is slackened (see illustrations). 10 Disconnect ihe bypass hoses from the coolant pump outlet stubs. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts, and withdraw the coolant pump assembly. Note that the pump must be detached from the transfer pipe than runs behind the cylinder block to the thermostat housing (see illustration). The pipe is a push fit in the port on the rear of the coolant pump
7.11 Removing the coolant pump assembly (diesel engine)
Page 118 of 225
3*2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
12 If tho pump is stuck, tap It gently using a soft-faced mallet • do not lever between the pump and cylinder block mating faces.
Inspection 13 Check the pump body and impeller for signs of excessive corrosion. Turn the impeller, and check for stiffness due to corrosion, or roughness due to excessive end play. 14 Check the clearance between the pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blade (see Illustration). If the clearance is different to that given In the Specifications, the pump must be renewed. No spare components are available; the pump can only be renewed as a complete assembly. 15 On diesel engine models, remove the O-rlng at the end ol the transfer pipe, which runs behind Ihe cylinder block and fits Into the rear of the coolant pump. A new O-rlng should be fitted as a matter of course.
Refitting
Petrol engine models 16 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of sealant from the mating faces of the pump and cylinder block/pump housing. 17 Apply a continuous bead of sealant {liquid gasket) to the cylinder block mating face of the pump, taking care not to apply excessive sealant, which may enter the pump itself (see Illustration). 18 Place the pump In position In Its housing, then refit and lighten the bolts/nuts to the specified torque. 19 Refit the liming belt as described In Chapter 2A or 28. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebeltfs) and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter
t
A. 21 Reconnect Ihe battery negative terminal. Diesel engine models 22 Commence refitting by thoroughly cleaning all traces of old gasket from the mating faces of the pump housing and cylinder block. 23 Place a new gasket in position on (he cylinder block, locate the pump in position, then refit and tighten the bolts (see
7.17 On petrol engine models, apply a continuous bead of sealant (liquid gasket) to the pump mating face
pump Impeller and the casing using a feeler blode (diesel engine) illustration). Ensure that the end of the coolant transfer pipe seats firmly In tho port at the rear of the coolant pump, without displacing the O-ring seal. 24 Refit Ihe pump pulley, then refit the securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. Counterhofd the pulley using the same method employed during removal. 25 Where applicable, refit the power steering pump with reference to Chapter 10. 26 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt(s) as described in Chapter 18. 27 Refill (he cooling system as desenbed in Chapter 1B. 28 Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
8 Heater/ventilation components - § removal and refitting
Complete heater assembly
A
Warning: On mode's fitted with air conditioning, do not attempt to remove the cooling unit, which Is located between the heater blower motor casing and the main heater assembly. Romovat of the cooling unit entails disconnection of refrigerant lines - refer to Section 10 for precautions to be observed.
rfJS
8.3 Slacken the clips (arrowed) and detach the heater unit coolant hoses from the ports at the bulkhead
Page 172 of 225
6*172
Chapter 8
Driveshafts
Contents
Oriveshaft gaiter check See Chapter 1A or 1B General information 1 Oriveshaft overhaul and rubber gaiter renewal 3 intermediate driveshaft - removal and refitting 4 Driveshafts - removal and refitting 2
Degrees of difficulty
Easy,
suitable for ^ novtoewithittle experience ^
Fatly
easy,
suitable for beginner with
some experience
^
Fairty
difficult, suitable
tor
competent OtYmechanlc
Difficult,
suitable for experienced DIY mechanic ^
Veiydfficult, ^
suitable
for
expert DIY
or professional ^
Specifications
General Type
Lubrication lubricant type
Torque wrench settings Driveshaft nut* All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Roadwheel bolts Suspension strut-to-hub carrier bolts Track-rod balljolnt-to-hub carrier 'Use a new nut.
Unequal-length, solid steel shafts, splined to Inner and outer constant velocity joints. Intermediate shaft with support bearing on turbo diesel models with equal length driveshafts.
Fiat specification grease, supplied with gaiter repair kit
Nm Ibfft
240 177 280 207 85 63 70 52 40 30
1 General information
Power is transmitted from the differential to
Ihe
roadwheels by the driveshafts. via inboard and outboard constant velocity (CV) joints (we illustrations). An intermediate drive shaft, with its own support bearing is fitted between the gearbox output and right-hand drive shafts on turbo desei models (see Illustration overleaf). This layout has the effect of equalising driveshaft angles at sll suspension positions and reduces tfveshaft flexing, which improves directional stability, particularly under acceleration. The outer Rzeppa type CV joints allow smooth transmission of drive to the wheels at all steering and suspension angles. Drive Is transmitted by means of a number of radially static steel balls that run In grooves between
the two halves of the joint. The type of inboard CV joint fitted is model dependant. Those fitted to all except the turbo diesel models are of the plunge-cup type; drive is transmitted across the joint by means of three rollers, mounted on the driveshaft in a tripod arrangement, that are radially static but are free to slide in the grooved plunge cup.
The inboard CV joints fitted to turbo diesel models are of the Rzeppa type, similar to those at the outboard end of the driveshaft. On the right-hand driveshafl, the joint is bolted directly to the end of the intermediate driveshaft flange. On the left-hand driveshaft, the joint is bolted to the transmission output shaft flange.
1.1a Cross section of driveshaft - petrol and non-turbo diesel models A Transmission side B Roadwheef side
Page 189 of 225
10*1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Front hub bearings - renewal 2 Front suspension anti-roll bar • removal and refitting 6 Front suspension lower arm - removal and refitting 4 Front suspension lower arm balljolnt - renewal 5 From suspension strut - removal, overhaul and refitting 3 General information 1 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting 10 Manual steering gear assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting ... 12 Power steering fluid level check See Weekly checks Power steering gear assembly - removal and refitting 13 Power steering hydraulic system - bleeding 15
Degrees of difficulty
Power steering pump • removal and refitting 16 Rear hub bearings - renewal 7 Rear suspension components- removal, overhaul and refitting 8 Steering and suspension check See Chapter 1A or 1B Steering column - removal, overhaul and refitting 11 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal 14 Steering wheel - removal and refitting 9 Track-rod end - removal and refitting 17 Wheel alignment and steering angles • general information 18 Wheel and tyre maintenance and tyre pressure checks See Weekly checks
Easy, suitable for nowoe with little
Jg experience ^
Fakty easy,
suitable for beginner
with
J£>
some experience
^
FaMy difficult,
% suitable for competent ^
DIY mechanic
^
Difficult,
suitable for & experienced DIY « mechsmc ^
Very difficult,
^ suitable for expert
DIY
fij or professional ^
Specifications
Front suspension Type
Rear suspension Type
Steering Type Turns lock-to-lock: Manual Power assisted Toe setting (front)
Roadwheeis and tyres See Weekly checks
Torque wrench settings Front suspension Anti-roll bar bush bracket bolts Driveshaft nut:' All models except turbo diesel (M22 plain) Turbo diesel (M24 with staking and captive washer) Lower arm balljoint to hub carrier Lower arm front bush securing bolt Lower arm rear bush securing bolt Suspension strut damper nut Suspension strut to hub carrier Suspension strut to inner wing
Independent, incorporating transverse lower wishbones and coil spring-over-teiescopic damper strut units. Anti-roll bar fitted to all models.
Independent, incorporating trailing arms with telescopic dampers and coil springs.
Rack-and-pinlon, manual or power assisted, depending on model
4.4 approx. 2.9 approx. 0° (parallel) ± 1a
Nm ibfft
30 22
240 177 280 207 30 22 95 70 70 52 60 44 70 52 50 37
Page 190 of 225
Suspension and steering 10*2
Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm ibt ft Rasr suspension Damper lower securing bolt 95 70 Damper upper securing bolt 60 44 Handbrake cable support bracket-to-trailing arm screws 15 11 Hub nut 280 207 Trailing arm securing bolt 150 111 Steering Ignition switch/steering column lock securing bolts 4 3 Steering column mounting bolts 55 41 Steering gear mounting bolts 70 52 Steering wheel nut' 50 37 Subframe-to-body bolts 110 81 Track-rod end to hub carrier 40 30 Unlversaijointclampbolts 20 15 Roadwheels Roadwheel bolts 85 63 * Use a new nut
1 General information
Front suspension The front suspension is independent, comprising transverse lower wishbones, coil spring-over-damper strut units and an anti-roll bar. The hub carriors are bolted to the base of the stmt units and are linked to the lower arms by means ot balliotnts. The entire front suspension assembly is mounted on a subframe, which is In turn botted to the vehicle body.
Rear suspension The rear suspension incorporates a torsion beam axle, trailing arms, coil springs and separate telescopic dampers. In addition, a rear anil-roll bar is fitted to certain models. The components form a discrete sub-assembly which can be unboiled from the underside of the vehicle separately or as a complete unit.
Steering The two-piece steering shaft runs in a tubular column assembly, which is bolted to a bracket mounted on the vehicles bulkhead. The shaft Is articulated at its lower end by means of a universal Joint, which is clamped to the steering shaft and the steering gear pinion by moans of clamp bolts. The steering gear is mounted on the engine compartment bulkhead, and is connected to the steering arms projecting rearwards from Ihe hub carriers. The track-rods are fitted with balljoints at their inner and outer ends, to allow for suspension movement, and are threaded to facilitate ad|ustment. Hydrauiically-assisted power steering ts fittod to some models. The hydraulic system is powered by a belt-driven servo pump, which is driven from the crankshaft pulley.
Certain models are fitted with an airbag system. Sensors built into the vehicle body are triggered in the event of a front end collision and prompt an Electronic Control Unll (ECU) to activate the airbag, mounted In the centre of the steering wheel and the facia. This reduces the risk of the front seat occupants striking the steering wheel, windscreen or facia during an accident.
A
Warning: For safety reasons, owners are strongty advised to entrust to an authorised Flat dealer any work which involves disturbing the airbag system components. The airbag inflation devices contain explosive material and legislation exists to control their handling and storage, in addition, specialised test equipment Is needed to check that the airbag system Is fully operational following reassembly.
2 Front hub bearings -renewal *
Note: A balljoint separator tool, and a press or suitable alternative tools (see text) will be required for this operation. The bearing will be destroyed during the removal procedure.
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Remove the brake disc and caliper, with reference to Chapter 9. Note that the caliper body can remain bolted to its bracket: there is no need lo disconnect the brake fluid hose from the caliper. 3 With reference to Chapter 8. slacken and remove the driveshaft hub nut. 4 On models with ABS, unbolt the ABS wheel sensor, and remove the screw securing the
ABS sensor wiring to the hub carrier. Suspend the sensor away from the working ares, to avoid the possibility of damage. 5 With reference to Section 17, separate
th»
track-rod end from the hub carrier, using
a
suitable balljoint splitter. 6 Remove the two nuts from tho botts securing Ihe hub carrier to the base of th» suspension strut (refer to Section
3).
Withdrew the bolts and separate the top of hub earrtt from the strut. 7 Disconnect the outboard end of Ito driveshaft from the hub, as described durirg the driveshaft removal and refitting procedm in Chapter 8. Note: There is no naod fo disconnect the Inboard end of the
drivestett
from the transmission. Caution: Do not allow the end of tin driveshaft to hang down under its
own
weight, as this places strain on the
CV
joints; support the end of the shaft uskg wire or string. 8 Slacken and remove the nut and clamp bolt, then push the lower arm down anc separate the balljoint from the base of the tab carrier (see illustrations). 9 At this stage, it is recommended that
the bub
carrier be taken to a engineering workshop,
as
the hub and bearing should ideally be removed from the hub carrier using a hydraulic press
2.8a ... Slacken and remove the nut...
Page 193 of 225
Suspension and steering 10*5
3,9s Withdraw the coll spring, complete with the compressors ... 3.9b ... then withdraw the dust cover and bump rubber 3.9c Fully dismantled strut
10 With the strut assembly now dismantled, examine all the components tor wear, damage or deformation. Check the rubber com-ponents for deterioration. Renew any of the components as necessary. 11 Examine tho damper for signs of fluid teakage. Check the damper rod for signs of pitting along its entire length, and check the stjul body for signs of damage. White holding fc
in an
upright position, test the operation of
Ihe
stmt by moving Ihe damper rod through a fut stroke, and then through short strokes of
SO
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance Id should be smooth and continuous. If the resistance is jerky, or uneven, or if there is any wsible sign of wear or damage to the strut, renewal is necessary. Note that the damper cannot be renewed independently, and if leakage, damage or corrosion Is evident, the complete strut/damper assembly must be renewed {in which case, the spring, upper mounting components, bushes, and associated components can be transferred to
Ihe
new strut). 12 If any doubt exists about the condition of
Ihe
coil spring, carefully remove the spring compressors, and check the spring for distortion and signs of cracking. Renew the spring if it is damaged or distorted, or if there isany doubt about its condition. a Warning: Coil springs are /j\ classified by their height when '
11
• undor load • this Is indicatod by a
coloured
paint marking on the side of the
coll windings (either green or yellow). All coll springs fitted to tho vehicle must be of the same classification to ensure the correct ride height. 13 Clamp the strut body in a vice, as dunng dismantling, then refit the lower spring seat rubber (where fitted), dust cover and bump rubber. 14 Ensure that the coil spring is compressed sufficiently to enable the upper mounting components to be fitted, then fit the spring over the damper rod. ensuring that the lower end of the spring is correctly located In the recess on the lower spring seat (soe illustration). 15 Refit the upper spring seat and upper mounting plate ensuring that the top end of
the spring is correctly located on the upper spring seat. Note that when the strut is reassembled, the orientation marking on the upper rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the metal section of the upper mounting plate as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting (see illustration). 10 Fit the new damper rod top nut together with its washer and bush, then tighten the nut to the specified torque, counterholding the damper rod in a manner similar to that used during dismantling. Note that a suitable crows-foot adapter will be required to tighten the damper rod top nut to the specified torque. 17 Remove the spring compressors. Where applicable, refit the protective plastic cap over the damper rod top nut.
Refitting 18 Manoeuvre the strut assembly into position under the wheel arch, passing the locating stud clip through the holes in the body turret. Note that when the strut is refitted, the orientation marking on the upper mounting plate rubber mounting must be positioned in relation to the vehicle as shown, to maintain the correct front wheel castor setting • refer to illustration 3.15. Fit the upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 19 Engage Ihe lower end of the strut with the
3.14 Ensure that the lower end of the spring is correctly located in the recess (arrowed) on the lower spring seat
3.15 Correct positioning of the suspension strut upper mounting components A Left hand mounting for vehicles with manual steering B Left hand mounting tor vehicles with power-assisted steering C To front of vehicle O Orientation marking 3.18 Fit the strut upper mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque
Page 198 of 225
10*10 Suspension and steering
12.8 Slacken and remove the two steering goar-to-subirame bolts (arrowed) 8 Disconnect the universal joint at the base of the steering column from the steering gear pinion. Note the position of tho safety clip • this must be refitted In the same position on reassembly. 9 Remove Ihe steering column from the vehicle.
Overhaul 10 The hoight adjustment mechanism can be removed by removing the nut from the end of the pivot shaft and withdrawing it. 11 The upper and lower bushes are held in position by staking at the ends of the column tube. Relieve the staking using a mallet and punch to extract the bushes. 12 Check for excessive radial and axial play In the universal joints at both ends of the lower steering column. The lower section of the steering column may be renewed separately if required, by slackening the clamp bolt and detaching It from the upper section. 13 If the vehicle has been Involved in an accident, check for deformation In all ol the steering column components, particularly the mounting bracket and centre tube. Renew as required.
Refitting 14 Refitting the steering column is by following the removal procedure in reverse. Tighten all fixings to Ihe specified torque setting.
12 ManuaJ steering fk gear assembly -removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal 1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axie stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front road wheels. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery in the Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reference to Section 11. slacken the clamp boil at the base of steering column lower universal |o!nt, to separate it rrom the steering gear pinion.
12.9 Unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (arrowed) 4 Remove the safety clip from the steering gear pinion, noting Its fitted position to aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and dotach the track* rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, using a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, remove the clips and detach the gear selection cable and the reverse gear inhibitor cable from the steenng gear. 7 Delach the gear selector rod from the top of the steering gear, 8 Slacken and remove the two steering gear-to-subframe bolts (see Illustration) 9 Support the underside of the transmission using a trolley jack, then unbolt the rear engine mountlng-to-subframe bolts (see illustration) 10 With reference to Chapter 4D. unbolt the front section of the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter. 11 Unclip the plastic steenng gear pinion cup from ihe bulkhead. 12 Withdraw the steenng gear through the wheel arch.
Refitting 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following: a) Tighten all fixings lo the specified torque settings. b) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest opportunity by a Fiat dealer or a tyro specialist.
13.10 Disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes (arrowed) from the power steering gear
13 Power steering * gear assembly - J removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply tN handbrake, then jack up the front ot thi vehicle and support securely on axle standi (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove both front roadwheels to improve access. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal (refer to Disconnecting the battery In tto Reference Section of this manual). 3 With reforence to Section 11, slacken ihe clamp bolt at the base of steering cohimn lower universal joint, to separate ll from Ihe steering gear pinion. 4 Remove the safety clip from the steenng gear pinion, noting its fitted position lo aid correct refitting later. Lift off the sound Insulating pad. 5 Refer to Section 17 and detach the track-rod end bailjoints from the hub carriers, usty a balljoint splitter. 6 Working underneath the vehicle, ranwvi the clips and detach the power steering fluid pipe from the steering gear casing. 7 With reference to Chapter 40, unboil lbs front section of the exhaust pipe from the manifold and catalytic converter/intermediate silencer (as applicable). 8 Refer to Chaptor 7A and disconnect the gear selector rod from the relay rod Disconnect the relay rod from the mounting on the top of the steering gear casing. 9 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or
an
old poultry baster. 10 Slacken the unions and disconnect the fluid delivery and return pipes from the power steering gear. Be prepared for an amount
erf
fluid loss - position a container underneath the unions and pad the surrounding area wth absorbent rags (see Illustration). 11 Slacken and remove the two sleeting gear-to-subframe bolts (see illustrations). 12 Support the engine and tronsmission assembly using either blocks of wood positioned under the transmission casing,
or a
lifting beam positioned across the engine
bay
13.11a Slacken and remove the right-hand...
Page 199 of 225
Suspension and steering 10*11
13.11b ... and left-hand steering gear-to-subframe bolts
hooked onto the engine lifting eyelet on the cylinder head. Working underneath the vehicle, unbolt and remove the transmission-lo-subframe rear mounting bracket. 13 Position a trolley jack under the right hand skle of the subframe crossmember. Raise the jack to take the weight of the crossmember
and
the attached components. 14 With reference to Section 4, slacken and remove the two bolts that secure the suspension lower arm rear bush to the subframe. Slacken and withdraw the subframe-to-bodywork bolt, located adjacent to the rear of the suspension lower arm. Throad two flange head bolts of the same thread size, but approximately 25 mm longer into the vacated holes, then carefully lower
the
trolley jack and allow ihe subframe to rest on the heads of the temporary bolts (see (lustration), 15 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 13 end 14 at the left-hand side of the vehicle. On completion, the subframe should be resting at
&
height approximately 25 mm lower than normal. 16 The additional clearance will now permit the steering gear pinion to be lowered away from the bulkhead. When the end of the pinion has cleared Ihe aperture, manoeuvre the entire steering gear assembly through the *tiae?arch.
Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
the
following points: s) Remote the temporary bolts and refit the original length fixings.
13.14 Slacken and remove the subframe-to-bodywork bolts (arrowed)
b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque settings. c) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (see Lubricants and fluids In Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described in Section 15. d) On completion, have the front wheel alignment checked at the earliest oppor-tunity by a Flat dealer or a tyre specialist.
14 Steering gear rubber gaiters - renewal <
Note: New gaiter retaining clips should be used on refitting. 1 Remove the relevant track-rod end as described in Section 17. 2 If not already done, unscresv the track-rod end locknut from Ihe end of the track-rod. 3 Mark the correct fitted position of the gaiter on the track-rod, then release the gaiter securing clips. Slide the gailer from the steering gear, and off the end of the track-rod. 4 Thoroughly clean tho track-rod and the steering gear housing, usrng fine abrasive paper to polish off any corrosion, burrs or sharp edges, which might damage the new gaiter sealing lips on installation. Scrape off all the grease from the old gaiter, and apply it to the track-rod inner balljoint. (This assumes that grease has not been lost or contaminated as a result of damage to the old gaiter. Use fresh crease if In doubt.) 5 Carefully slide the new gaiter onto the track-rod. and locate it on the steering gear housing. Align the outer edge of the gaiter with the mark made on the track-rod prior to removal, then secure it in position with new retaining clips. 6 Screw the track-rod end locknut onto the end of the track-rod. 7 Refit the track-rod end as described in Section 17.
15 Power steering hydraulic system • bleeding ^
General 1 The following symptoms indicate that there is air present In the power steering hydraulic system: a) Generation of air bubbles in fluid reservoir. b) Clicking noises from power steering pump. c) Excessive buzzing or groaning from power steering pump. 2 Note that when the vehicle Is stationary, or while moving the steering wheel slowly, a hissing noise may be produced In the steering gear or the fluid pump. This noise is inherent in the system, and does not indicate any cause for concern.
Bleeding 3 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Check the fluid level in the power steering fluid reservoir (bear in mind that the vehicle will be tilted, so the level cannot be read accurately), and if necessary top-up to just above the relevant level mark. 5 Have an assistant tum the steering quickly from lock to lock, and observe tho fluid level, if the fluid level drops, add more fluid, and repeat the operation until the fluid level no longer drops. Failure to achieve this within a reasonable period may indicate a leak in the system. 6 Stan the engine and repeat the procedure described In the previous paragraph. 7 Once the fluid level has stabilised, and all air has been bled from the system, lower the vehicle to the ground.
16 Power steering pump - Sk removal and refitting ^
Removal 1 Drain as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir, using a pipette or an old poultry baster. 2 Remove the clip and disconnect the rubber fluid supply hose from the port on the top of the power steering pump. Be prepared for an amount of fluid loss • position a container underneath the port and pad the surrounding area with absorbent rags. 3 Slacken the union and disconnect the fluid delivery hose from the side of the power steering pump. Again, be prepared for an amount of fluid loss. 4 Unscrew tho clamp bolt and through-bolt at either end of the drivebelt guard, then detach Ihe guard from the power steering pump (see illustrations). 5 Partially unscresv the two power steering pump mounting bolts then rotate the pump towards the engine slightly, to release the tension from the belt. Carefully ease the drivebelt from the pump pulley.
16.4a Unscrew the clamp bolt...
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10*12 Suspension and steering
16.4b ... and through-bolt...
6 Remove the two pump mounting bolts (see Illustrations) that were slackened earlier, then remove the pump from the engine.
Refitting 7 Refilling is a reversal, noting the following points: a) On completion, check and j? necessary adjust the dm'ebelt tension ay described In Chapter JA or IB. b) Refill the hydraulic system with the specified grade and quantity of power steering fluid (sw lubricants and fluids in Weekly checks), then thoroughly bleed the system as described In Section 15. c) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque setting,
17 Track-rod end -removal and refitting ^ S
Removal Note: A ball joint separator tool will do required for this operation. A new track-rod end nut split pin should be used on refitting. 1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake,
I
hen jack up Ihe front of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the relevant front roadwheel. 2 Partially unscrew the nut securing the (rack-rod end to the steering arm. Using a
17.2a Balljoint separator tool In use on the track-rod end
16.4c ... then detach the guard from the power steering pump
ballpoint separator tool, separate Ihe track-rod end from tho steering arm (see Illustrations). 3 Counterhold the track-rod end using the flats provided, then loosen ihe irack-rod end locknut (see illustration). 4 Unscrew the track-rod end from the track-rod, counting the exact number of turns required to do so. Alternatively, mark the relationship between the track-rod end and the trock-rod using a dab of p3lnL
Refitting 5 Carefully clean the track-rod end and the track-rod threads. 6 Renew the track-rod end if the rubber dust cover Is cracked, split or perished, or If the movement of the balijoint is either sloppy or too stiff. Also check lor other signs of damage such as worn threads. 7 Screw the track-rod end onto ihe track-rod by ihe number ol turns noted before removal. Tighten the locknut temporarily. 8 Ensure that Ihe balljoint taper is clean, then engage the taper wilh the steering arm on the hub carrier. 9 Refit the balljoint nut, and tighten to the specified torque. 10 Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 11 Have tho front wheel alignment checked by a Rat dealer or tyre specialist at the earliest opportunity. Note: // the vehicle has to be driven to have the wheel alignment checked, the track-rod end locknut should be tightened before drMng the vehicle.
17.2b Separato tho track-rod end from the steering arm
18.6b ... and rear mounting bolts
18 Wheel alignment and steering angles -general information
General information 1 A car's steering and suspension geomeiry Is defined in four basic settings • with this exception of toe sotting, all angles arc expressed in degrees: the relevant setting! are camber, castor, steering axis inclination, and toe-setting. With ihe exception of toe-sett ing, none of these settings are acfjustabitf.
Front wheel toe setting
Chocking 2 Due to the special measuring equlpr
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