air suspension FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual

CHAPTER 3
FACTS ARID FIGURES
This chapter provides you with
all the information you will
need about your car, especially
in connection with servicing and
repairing it. First, you'll need to
identify the engine type. If you
don't know it already, see
Chapter 6, Repairs and
Replacements.
Before buying parts, be sure to
take your vehicle's chassis and
engine numbers with you
-
see
Auto-Biography on page 1
and PART G: IDENTIFICATION
NUMBERS in this chapter.
Chapter Contents
• -< Page No. Page No.
PART
A:
MAJOR MILESTONES 17 PART E: REPAIR DATA 20
PART
B:
VITAL STATISTICS 18 PART
F:
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS 23
PART C: CAPACITIES 19 PART G: IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS 27
PART
D:
SERVICE DATA 19
•
IMPORTANT NOTE: Many detail changes have taken place over the years, and there have been many different Special
Editions and Options available. The following information will be true of most cases but can only be taken as a general
guide. Consult your local FIAT dealer for confirmation.
PART A: MAJOR MILESTONES
Overview Although the Tipo and Tempra were presented as
separate models, they are essentially the same cars, with detail
differences. However, all Tipos are 5-door hatchbacks (apart
from some 3-door 1.4 and the relatively rare 2.0 i.e. 16v, both
from 1993); all Tempras are 4-door saloons (with a boot) or
5-door estates. Apart from the rear bodywork and very slight
differences in rear suspension rates, both models are the
same, although years of production and options available
(including some engine options and some model names) are
not necessarily the same, and changes were not always
introduced to both model names at the same time
-
if at all.
All models come with front disc, rear drum brakes, except the

Tipo
2.0 i.e. 16v (but NOT the 2.0 i.e. GT), and the Tempra 2.0
i.e. SXand SLX models, which have discs front and rear.
IMPORTANT NOTE: This manual does NOT cover 1.8 and
2.0 litre Tipo or Tempra models.
June 1988 Tipo range introduced, as 1.4, 1.4 DGT, 1.6 DGT
and 1.6 DGT SX models with 1372ccand 1580cc petrol
engines. Also 7.97".dswith 1929 turbo diesel engine DGT and
Ids with digital instruments. All models with galvanised steel
body.
October 1988 Tipo 1.7D diesel version launched.
April 1990 Formula and S versions of Tipo 1.4 introduced.
April 1990 Also 1.6 DGT Selecta version introduced with CVT
gearbox.
July 1990 Tempra 1.4 and 1.6 (petrol) and 1.9D, (non-turbo
diesel), and 1.9 TD5 and TD5X (turbo diesel) 4-door saloon
models introduced. CVT auto-transmission available on 1.6
petrol models only
-
same as Selecta on Tipo models, but not
named as such. Tempra 1.8 i.e. SX with high performance
1756cc double-overhead camshaft (DOHC) fuel-injected
engine introduced. Tempra 1.4 and 1.6 basic and 5 models
with regular, analogue instruments; Tempra SXand SX i.e.
with digital instruments.
Tipo 1.8 i.e. DGT model, with high performance 1756cc fuel
injected, DOHC petrol engine introduced.
June 1991 Tempra Station Wagon introduced, as 1.6 or 1.8
i.e. models, with 2-part horizontally split tailgate and high-
roof styling.

October 1991 2.0 i.e. 16v introduced, with 1995cc, 16 valve
high-performance DOHC engine, catalytic converter, sports
suspension, front and rear disc brakes. ABS available as
option.
January 1992 Existing Tipo models lightly facelifted and
redesignated 1.4 Formula, 1.45, 1.6S, 1.6SX, 1.9TD SX,
1.8 i.e. SX. 1.7D discontinued. SX versions with digital
instruments.
Tempra 1.9 TDS (turbo diesel) Station Wagon introduced. 1.4
and 1.9D saloons discontinued.
May 1992 Tempra 1.8 i.e. SX Saloon and Station Wagon
discontinued.
June 1992 Tempra 2.0 i.e. SX saloon and station wagon
models introduced, with high performance 1995cc DOHC fuel
injected engine, catalytic converter and disc brakes front and
rear.
Tipo 1.4 and all Tipo and Tempra 1.6 models (except Selecta)
now with a catalytic converter and fuel injection in place of
Weber twin-choke carburettor. Designated i.e. in badging.
December 1992 Tipo 1.8 i.e. and 1.6 Selecta discontinued.
February 1993 Tipo 2.0 i.e. GT introduced. Slightly lower
performance and spec, version of the 16v model.
July 1993 Tipo 1.4 now available as a 3-door or 5-door
hatchback. 2.0 i.e. 16v now only available as 3-door. Tipo 2.0
i.e. GT replaced by similar spec. 2.0 i.e. SLX.
Tempra 2.0 i.e. SX saloons and estates now only available
with auto, gearbox. Otherwise, SX models become known as
SLX, with colour-coded mirrors and ABS brakes. Most Tempras
now with body-coloured bumpers. 1.9D (non turbo Diesel re-
introduced).
All Tipo and Tempra models now with revised front-end
styling
-
narrower headlights and revised grille. Improved crash
protection, including side impact beams, safety steering wheel
and uprated brakes. Power steering, central locking, electric
windows all standard.
February 1994 Tipo 1.7 non-turbo diesel re-introduced as
1.7 DS.
May 1994 Tempra 1.9DS Station Wagon introduced.
September 1994 Most models available with driver's airbag,
fire prevention system and seat belt pre-tensioners.
December 1994 Tempra 1.6 i.e. versions get M.P.I, engine.
February/March 1995 All models with VIN number window
etching and immobiliser standard on all Tempra petrol models.
October 1995 Immobiliser fitted to Tempra D and TD models.
End of 1995 Tipo discontinued.
Mid-1996 Tempra discontinued.
PART B: VITAL STATISTICS
All Tipo models
-
55 litres, except petrol with catalytic converter
- 51
litres.
All Tempra models
-
65 litres, except petrol with catalytic converter
-
62 litres.
Wheels and Tyres
ENGINE PRESSED STEEL RADIAL TYRE PRESSURES (cold)
WHEEL RIM TYPE TUBELESS FRONT REAR
TYRE TYPE average load heavy load average load heavy load
TIPO MODELS
1.4 and 1.6 Petrol 5.00B x 13H 165/70R13S 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1697 Diesel 5.00B x 13H 165/70R 13S 2.1 bar/30 psi 2.1 bar/30 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
Turbo D 5.5J x 14H
175/65 R
14T 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi
1.4 i.e./1.6 i.e. (1993-on) 5.5J x 14H
165/65 R
14T 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1.7D (1993-on) 5.5J x 14H 165/65R 14T 2.1 bar/30 psi 2.1 bar/30 psi 1.9 bar/28 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
Option
-
certain models 5.5J x 14AH2 185/60R 14H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi
TEMPRA MODELS
Early 1.4 and 1.6
Saloons 5.00B x 13H 165/70R 13S/T 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1.6 SX Saloon 5.5J x 14H 165/65R 14T 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.0 bar/29 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi
1.9D/1.9 TD Saloon
and Late 1.6 i.e. 5.5J x 14H 175/65R 14T/H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi
1.6/1.9D/1.9TD
Station Wagons 5.5J x 14H 175/65R 14H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 3.0 bar/44 psi
Option for Station 5.5J x 14H or AH2 185/60 R 14H 2.2 bar/32 psi 2.4 bar/35 psi 2.2 bar/32 psi 3.0 bar/44 psi
Wagons (alloy)
SPARE WHEEL
-
ALL TIPO AND TEMPRA MODELS (speed limit 50 mph)
Tempra TD Saloon and
ALL Station Wagons 4.00B x 14H 105/70 B14 4.2
bar/61
psi
All other models 4.00Bx14H 135/80 B14 2.8
bar/41
psi

1372 OHC 1580/1581 OHC 1697 Diesel 1929 D 1929 Turbo D
Brakes
GAP
-
SERVO PISTON PUSHROD FROM SUPPORT PLATE (d):
22.45-22.65 22.45-22.65 22.45-22.65
MINIMUM ALLOWED FRONT DISC THICKNESS (mm):
NON-ABS: 9.2 NON-ABS: 9.2 NON-ABS: 9.2
ABS: 10.2 ABS: 10.2
MINIMUM ALLOWED REAR DISC THICKNESS
-
when applicable
-
(mm):
9.2 9.2 9.2
MINIMUM ALLOWED BRAKE DRUM INTERNAL DIAMETER
-
when applicable
-
(mm):
181.35 A: 181.35
B: 230
Running gear/suspension - front
CAMBER (not adjustable):
-20' to 40' -20' to 40'
A: 181.35
B: 230
-20' to 40
22.45-22.65
10.2
ABS: 9.2
230
22.45-22.65
10.2
(TdsX: 10.8)
ABS: 9.2
230
-20' to 40' -20 to 40'
(TdsX: 25'
+/-
30')
FRONT CASTER (not adjustable):
1 degree 50'-2 degrees 50'
1
degree 50'-2 degrees 50'
1
degree 50'-2 degrees 50'
1
degree 50'-2 degrees 50' 1 degree 50'-2 degrees 50'
(TdsX: 2 degrees 50')
TOE-IN (adjustable)

-1
to
1
mm
-1
to
1
mm
-1
to
1
mm
-1
to
1
mm
FRONT SPRING HEIGHT RELEASED (mm):
432 EARLY: 432 461 EARLY: 489
TEMPRA: 444 LATE: 444 LATE: 472
TEMPRA: 489
FRONT SPRING: when the given load in Nm is applied, the spring height should equal 191 mm:
3020-3330 3020-3330 3310-3590 3600-3900
REPLACEMENT FRONT SPRING COLOURS: If new springs fail to give the above heights, YELLOW SPRINGS give LOWER heights;
GREEN springs give HIGHER. ALWAYS use them in pairs of same colour.
Rear suspension
CAMBER (not adjustable):
TOE-IN (not adjustable):

-1
to
1
mm
EARLY: 489
LATE: 472
TEMPRA: 493
3600-3900
-1 degree 30' to -30' -1 degree 30' to -30' -1 degree 30' to -30' -1 degree 30' to -30'

-3
to
1
mm
-3
to
1
mm
-3
to
1
mm -3 to
1
mm
-1 degree 30' to -30'
(TdsX: 1 degree 30' +/-15'

-3
to
1
mm
(TdsX:
-2
to 2 mm)
REAR COIL SPRING HEIGHT, RELEASED (mm):
3270 3270 3270 3270 3270
TEMPRA: 3390 TEMPRA: 3390 TEMPRA: 3390 TEMPRA: 3390
REAR COIL SPRING HEIGHT, LOAD in NM REQUIRED TO COMPRESS TO 195 mm.
2930-3170 2930-3170 2930-3170 2930-3170 2930-3170
TEMPRA: 3120-3380 TEMPRA: 3120-3380 TEMPRA: 3120-
3380 TEMPRA: 3120-3380
REPLACEMENT REAR SPRING COLOURS: If new springs fail to give the above heights, YELLOW springs give LOWER heights;
GREEN springs give HIGHER. ALWAYS use them in pairs of same colour.
(*) The bolt need not be greased

Thermal valve on inlet manifold
(M10 x 1.25 tapered)
(M8 x 1.25 tapered)
Oil pressure sending unit (M14 x 1.5)
Oil temperature sender unit (M14 x 1.5 tapered)....
Oil level sending unit (M12 x 1.25)
Engine oil sump retaining bolt/nut (M6)
Screw retaining oil sealing cover to crankcase (M6)
Nut retaining manifold support bracket (M8)
Nut retaining turbine to exhaust manifold (M8)
Air pressure switch on inlet manifold (M12 x 1.5)...
Power Unit Mounting
ENGINE SIDE
Screw (with long flange) retaining flexible block to rail (M8)
Self-locking nut with plastic ring (for through screw) retaining flexible block
to engine bracket (M10 x 1.25)
Screw retaining flexible block supporting bracket to crankcase
(M10. 1.25)
(M12 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining flexible block to engine bracket (M12 x 1.25)
Bolt retaining power unit suspension link (M10 x 1.25)
GEARBOX SIDE
Screw (with wide flange) retaining flexible block to rail (M8)
Flanged screws retaining support to plate on gearbox (M10 x 1.25)
Self-locking nut with plastic ring (for through screw) retaining flexible block
to gearbox side bracket (M10 x 1.25)
Flanged screw retaining flexible block to gearbox side bracket (M12 x 1.25).
DIFFERENTIAL SIDE
Screw with flange unit retaining elastic block to beam (M8)
Self-locking nut retaining bracket to gearbox support
(M8)
(M12 x 1.25)
Screw retaining bracket brace to support on gear case (M10 x 1.25)
Screw, rubber block to bracket (M12 x 1.25)
Exhaust
Nut retaining flange to exhaust manifold (M8)
Nuts for bolts fastening collars joining exhaust pipe sections (M10 x 1.25)...
Bolt retaining exhaust pipe sleeve to turbine (M8)
Bolt retaining front exhaust pipe section to gearbox (M8)
Metex joint to nut and stud manifold to plate and spring retainer (M8)
Nut for bolt anchoring first exhaust pipe section (M8)
Nut retaining bracket anchoring first exhaust pipe section (M12 x 1.25)
Screw with normal flange retaining exhaust pipe terminal block
support bracket (M8)
Fuel Circuit
Bolt (with wide flange) retaining tank and fitting to body (M8)
Ring retaining delivery, recirculation and vent fitting mounts to tank
(131 x 6-Trapezoid thread)
Screw (with wide flange) retaining fuel filter support bracket (M8)

Windscreen and Mirrors
O 16. In zone 'A' of your windscreen, no items of damage larger than 10 mm in diameter will be allowed. In the rest of the area swept by the windscreen wipers, no damage greater than 40 mm in diameter will be allowed, nor should windscreen stickers or other obstructions encroach on this area.
o 17. Check that the exterior mirror on the driver's side is in good condition.
o 18. There must be one other mirror in good condition, either inside the car or an external mirror on the passenger's side.
Brakes
O 19. You cannot check the brakes
properly without a rolling road brake
tester but you can carry out the
following checks:
O 20. Pull on the handbrake. It should be fully ON before the handbrake reaches the end of its travel.
O 21. Knock the handbrake from side to side and check that it does not then release itself.
O 22. Check the security of the handbrake mountings and check the floor around it for rust or splits.
o 23. Check that the brake pedal is in good condition and that, when you take hold of it and move it from side to side, there is not too much play.
o 24. Push the footbrake down hard, with your foot. If it creeps slowly down to the floor, there is probably a problem with the master cylinder. Release the pedal, and after a few seconds, press down again. If the pedal feels spongy or it travels nearly to the floor, there is air in the system or another MoT-failing fault with the brakes.
o 25. Check the servo unit (when
fitted) as follows: Pump the pedal
several times then hold it down hard.
Start the engine. As the engine starts,
the pedal should move down slightly.
If it doesn't the servo or the vacuum
hose leading to it may be faulty.
Seat Belts and Seats
O 26. Examine all of the webbing (pull out the belts from the inertia reel if necessary) for cuts, fraying or deterioration.
o 27. Check that each inertia reel belt retracts correctly.
o 28. Fasten and unfasten each belt to ensure that the buckles work correctly.
o 29. Tug hard on each belt and inspect the mountings, as far as possible, to ensure that all are okay.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Checks apply to
rear seat belts as much as front
ones.
O 30. Make sure that the seat runners and mountings are secure and that the back rest locks in the upright position.
Doors and Door Locks
O 31. Check that both front doors latch securely when closed and that both can be opened and closed from both outside and inside the car.
PART B: VEHICLE ON THE GROUND
Electrical Equipment
See Part A: INSIDE THE CAR for checks on the operation of the electrical equipment.
O 1. Examine the wiper blades and replace those that show any damage.
Vehicle Identification
Numbers (VIIU)
O 2. The VIN (or chassis number on older vehicles) must be clearly displayed and legible.
O 3. Number plates must be secure, legible and in good condition with correct spacing between letters and numbers. Any non-standard spacing will not be accepted.
Braking System
O 4. Inside the engine bay inspect the master cylinder, servo unit (if fitted), brake pipes and mountings. Look for corrosion, loose fitting or leaks.
Steering and Suspension
OS . While still in the engine bay, have your assistant turn the steering wheel lightly from side to side and look for play in steering universal joints or steering rack mountings and any other steering connections.
OE. If your vehicle is fitted with power steering, check the security and condition of the steering pump, hoses and drivebelt, in the engine bay.
O 7. Look and reach under the car while your assistant turns the steering wheel more vigorously from side to side. Place your hand over each track rod end in turn and inspect all of the steering linkages, joints and attachments for wear.
o 8. Go around the vehicle and
'bounce' each corner of the
vehicle in turn. Release at the lowest
point and the vehicle should rise and
settle in its normal position without
continuing to 'bounce' of its own
accord.

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

PART F: STEERING AMD SUSPENSION
G Job 42. Check front wheel bearings.

In
order to check for wear:
• raise the front of the car on axle stands (see Chapter 1,
Safety First!)
• place the gearbox in neutral
• pull the handbrake securely on and chock the rear wheels

Try
spinning each wheel (as far as possible with a front-drive
car), feeling for rough rotation. Rock the wheel about its
centre, feeling for excess bearing play.
D INSIDE INFORMATION: If a wheel bearing is worn, you
will normally hear a noise on the outer, loaded bearing
when cornering. D
G Job 43. Check front suspension.
BOTTOM BALL JOINT
Jack
up
the car underneath the suspension lower arm
(wishbone), so that the wheel is two inches off the ground.
See Chapter
1,
Safety First.
SUSPENSION STRUT/SHOCK ABSORBER
43D. Examine the shock
absorber, which is enclosed
inside the coil spring, for
leaks, looking for signs of a
'damp' oil stain seeping from
underneath the top half of
the shock absorber body.
The top of the strut/shock
absorber is mounted in a
rubber bush which can be
checked for softness,
cracking or deterioration
from inside the engine bay.
43A. Place a long,
rigid bar between

the
ground and the
bottom of the tyre
tread, and carefully
'jog' the wheel
upwards repeatedly
while a helper looks

at and
feels the
lower balljoint for vertical movement. The helper should NOT

lie
under the car, and you should be careful not to rock the

car
off
the jack.
Also examine the ball joint gaiter for any

damage
or leakage of grease
-
a simple, visual examination.

You will
have to replace the wishbone assembly if the gaiter is
damaged. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements for
information.
TRACK CONTROL ARM INNER BUSHES
43B. Further raise the car

and
support it on an axle

stand
under the subframe so

that the
suspension on the

side being
checked can hang
free. Lever between the arm

and
subframe, looking for
excessive movement of the
bushes. Some cushioned
flexing
is
normal. See

Chapter
6, Repairs and
Replacements for bush
replacement information.

One bush is
at the front

inner end
of the wishbone...
ANTI-ROLL BAR BUSHES
43E. Check the outer
mountings, on the
suspension, and the body
mountings.
• Job 44. Check steering column, rack and TREs.
44A. Drive the car on to car
ramps, firmly apply the
handbrake and chock the
rear wheels. Get your helper
to sit inside the car, turn the
ignition key to the 'MAR'
(ON) position to release the
steering column lock. Now,
move the steering wheel
repeatedly about 100 mm (4
in.) each way while someone
checks for free movement in
BOUNCE TEST: Try 'bouncing' each front corner of the car in
a rhythmical motion, pressing down as hard as you can. When
you let go, the movement should continue for no more than
one-and-a-half rebounds. If it does so, this is a sure indication
that the shock absorber is
worn and should be replaced.
If one of the front shock
absorbers needs replacing,
replace both, for safety
reasons.

each track rod end (TRE). Also, look out for a split gaiter.
Replace the TRE if the gaiter is split, or it will rapidly fail.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: Try placing your hand over the
TRE as the steering is moved. If there are any signs of
wear, replace the TRE. Q
STEERING COLUMN
44B. The steering column has two universal joints (A) which
need to be checked for wear. While your assistant is turning
the steering wheel, check to see if there is any movement in
the universal joints.
44C. The upper joint is found
alongside the foot pedals.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION:
Place your hand over the joint

-
you can usually feel the
movement better than you
can see it. If there is ANY
movement at all, play at the
steering wheel will be greatly
exaggerated
-
replace the
faulty universal joint. B
STEERING RACK GAITERS
44D. B INSIDE INFORMATION: Check the right hand
gaiter from beneath; the left-hand from inside the
engine bay. Q
Turn the ignition key to the 'MAR' (ON) position but take care
not to start the engine. Turn the steering wheel to full right
lock. From underneath the bonnet, examine the gaiter (see
illustration 44B, parts B) on the left-hand side, which will now
be fully extended. Check visually for splits or oil leakage. Turn
the steering wheel to the opposite lock and examine the gaiter
(B) on the other side of the rack. If necessary, replace IMMEDI-
ATELY
-
the rack will rapidly be ruined if the gaiter is split.
Also, watch the steering rack body (C) to see if it is firmly
attached. If there is any movement between the rack and its
mountings, check the securing bolts for tightness.
• Job 45. Check power steering fluid.
45A. When the
engine is cold, the
power steering fluid
should not drop below
the LIVELLO (level)
mark (B) on the
reservoir (A)...
45B. ...or the mark on the dipstick, as shown. It's okay for the
level to appear too high when the engine is hot.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The reservoir 'floats' around the
engine bay
-
in different places in different models.
• Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings.
Tipo/Tempra rear wheel bearings are sealed in their hubs and
are usually very long lived. See the checking procedures
described in Job 42, but remember not to apply the
handbrake! Also note that the rear wheels will be easier to
spin than the fronts.
• Job 47. Check rear suspension.
Chock the front
wheels, jack the rear
of the car, and place
stands under the axle,
as close to the wheels
as possible. Lower the
car onto the axle
stands.
47. Check the subframe mountings (x4), the trailing arm bush
pivot bolts, the shock absorber lower mounting bolts and the
anti-roll bar mounting bolts for tightness. Check the condition
of the mounting bushes by levering them with a screwdriver.
Replace if excessive movement or bush deterioration are
noticed. See Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.

Please read the whole of CHAPTER
1,
SAFETY FIRST before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 6
REPAIRS AND REPLACEMENTS
This chapter shows you how
to remove and overhaul all
the major 'wearing' parts of
the car. We deliberately don't
show how to rebuild major
components, such as the
gearbox, or differential. You
are much better off, in terms
of time, cost and the
provision of a guarantee, to
buy a replacement unit.
The same applies to major
electrical components, such
as alternator and starter
motor. If, as we recommend,
you stick to 'original' FIAT
replacement parts, you will
maintain the original quality
of your car.
PART A: ENGINE
PART B: TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH
PART C: COOLING SYSTEM
PART D: IGNITION
PART E: ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS
:er Contents
PARTf: FUEL AND EXHAUST
PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION
PART H: BRAKES
PART I: BODY AND INTERIOR
110
Page No.
116
127
134
143
Illustration and Section Numbers
• In this chapter, each area of the car is dealt with in a
different PART of the chapter, such as, PART A: ENGINE.
• Each job in each PART has a separate identifying number.
For example Job 2. Cylinder head removal.
• Every Job is broken down into easy-to-follow Steps,
numbered from 1-on.
• Illustrations are numbered so that you can see at a glance
where they belong!
• The illustration Job
1-3
(in PART A) for example, relates to
the text in Job 1, Step 3.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Before carrying out any of the work in this chapter,
be sure to read and understand Chapter 1, Safety
First!
• Be sure to read any safety notes supplied with any
of

the materials for equipment you purchase in
connection with the work described in this chapter.
• If you are not sure about your competence or
skills in

carrying out any of the work described in this chapter,
have the work carried out by your FIAT dealership.
FACT FILE: TIPO and TEMPRA ENGINE TYPES
PETROL ENGINES: The engines covered by
this manual are by far the most commonly
found in the UK. There may be the odd few with
different capacities or specifications which have been imported
from other countries but even they are usually similar. Here we
are concerned with one type of OHC (overhead camshaft)
PETROL engine, in 1372cc (1400) and 1581cc (1600) capacities.
They are best identified by the fact that the 1400 has its
distributor mounted on the side of the cylinder block and the
1600 has a distributor which is mounted on the end of the
camshaft, flywheel end.
DIESEL ENGINES: The Diesel engines covered here are the
1697cc (1700), the 1929cc (1900) and the 1929cc (1900) turbo.
It would take a trained eye to spot any differences between the
normally aspirated engines, but the turbo mounted on the
exhaust manifold together with its associated extra 'plumbing'
easily identifies the most powerful version.