clock FIAT UNO 1983 Service User Guide

thumb and forefinger at the centre of the run
between the auxiliary shaft sprocket and the
camshaft sprocket. Using this method it
should just be possible to twist the belt
through 90º using moderate pressure.
55To adjust the tension, loosen off the
tensioner pulley nut then insert two rods (or
screwdrivers) into position in the pulley holes
and position a lever between them.
56Gently lever the tensioner pulley in the
required direction to set the tension as
described, then initially tighten the pulley nut
to lock the tensioner in the required position.
57Remove the tools from the tensioner,
recheck the tension and then tighten the
tensioner pulley nut securely.
58Rotate the crankshaft clockwise through
two complete turns using a socket or spanner
on the crankshaft pulley nut, then recheck the
belt tension. To avoid the possibility of
unscrewing the pulley nut, remove the spark
plugs to enable the engine to be turned over
easier.
59If further adjustment is required, repeat
the previously mentioned procedures. If in
doubt, err on the slightly tight side when
adjusting the tension. If the belt is set too
loose, it may jump off the sprockets resulting
in serious damage.
60Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining
nut, fit the timing belt cover, then refit and
tighten the pulley nut to the specified torque
setting.
61Refit the remaining components in the
reverse order of removal. Tighten the retaining
nuts/bolts to the specified torque settings
where given. Adjust the tension of the
alternator drivebelt as described in Section 8.
Adjustment using FIAT special
tools
62Assemble the special tools and fit them to
the belt tensioner pulley as shown in
Fig. 13.16. When fitted, the tool rod must be
as vertical as possible and it is important to
note that no sliding weights must be attached
to tool No. 1860745100.
63Slacken the tensioner pulley nut, if not
already done. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise
through two complete turns using a socket or
spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut. The
special tool rod may move from the vertical asthe engine is turned over, in which case the
joint will need to be re-adjusted to return the
rod to the vertical and the operation repeated.
64With the two revolutions of the crankshaft
completed, tighten the belt tensioner pulley
nut securely and remove the special tools.
65Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining
nut, fit the timing belt cover, then refit and
tighten the pulley nut to its specified torque
setting.
66Refit the remaining components in the
reverse order of removal. Tighten the retaining
nuts/bolts to the specified torque settings
where given. Adjust the tension of the
alternator drivebelt as described in Sec-
tion 8.
Camshaft front oil seal -
renewal#
67The camshaft front oil seal may be
renewed with the engine in the vehicle, and
the camshaft in situ, as follows.
68Remove the timing belt and the camshaft
sprocket as described previously in this
Section.
69Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the exposed oil seal. Screw in a self-tapping
screw, and pull on the screw with pliers to
extract the seal.
70Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
71Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and drive it into position until
it is flush with the housing, using a suitable
socket or tube. Take care not to damage the
seal lips during fitting. Note that the seal lips
should face inwards.
72Refit the camshaft sprocket and thetiming belt as described previously in this
Section.
Camshaft, housing and
followers -
removal and refitting
#
Note: The engine must be cold when
removing the camshaft housing. Do not
remove the camshaft housing from a hot
engine. New camshaft housing and camshaft
cover gaskets must be used on refitting.
73If the engine is still in the vehicle,
disconnect the battery negative lead.
74Refer to paragraphs 3 to 7 in this part of
this Section for details and remove the
camshaft cover.
75Remove the camshaft sprocket and timing
belt as described previously in this Section.
76Remove the three securing nuts and the
single securing bolt, and withdraw the upper
section of the rear timing belt cover.
77Unscrew the camshaft housing securing
bolts. There are seven bolts which are
accessible from outside the camshaft
housing, and five shorter bolts which are
accessible from inside the housing (these
bolts are normally covered by the camshaft
cover). Note that each bolt is fitted with two
washers (photo).
78Carefully lift the camshaft housing from
the cylinder head. Be prepared for the cam
followers to drop from their bores in the
camshaft housing as the camshaft housing is
lifted, and ensure that the cam followers are
identified for position so that they can be
refitted in their original positions (this can be
achieved by placing each cam follower over
its relevant valve in the cylinder head).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•41
Fig. 13.16 FIAT special tool No. 1860745100 (A) for timing belt adjustment shown fitted to
the tensioner pulley - 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie engines (Sec 7B)
Use with adapter No. 1860745200 on 1372 cc ie engines and No. 1860745300 on 1372 cc
Turbo ie engines
7B.77 Removing one of the camshaft
housing shorter securing bolts
13

PART B:
CARBURETTOR MODELS
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF) -
description
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of this Section before starting
any work.
1This carburettor is used on the 999 cc
engine and is of the single venturi
downdraught type, with a manually-operated
choke (cold start).
2The unit incorporates an automatic
anti-flooding device, a full power valve and an
accelerator pump (photos).
3The throttle valve block, although
incorporating coolant hose stubs, is not in fact
coolant-heated.4A solenoid-operated idle cut-off valve is
fitted to prevent running-on (dieseling) when
the ignition is switched off.
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF) -
idle speed and mixture
adjustment
¢
5If the car is not equipped with a rev counter,
connect one in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions.
6Have the engine at normal operating
temperature and idling. Turn the idle speed
screw on the carburettor until the speed
matches that specified (photo).
7The idle mixture is set in production, and
the adjustment screw is sealed with a
tamperproof cap. If, however, the idling is not
smooth or the engine or carburettor havebeen extensively overhauled, the mixture may
require adjusting.
8Prise out the tamperproof plug and connect
an exhaust gas analyser to the car in
accordance with the instrument
manufacturer’s instructions (photo).
9With the engine at normal operating
temperature and idling at the specified speed,
turn the mixture screw until the CO
percentage is within the specified tolerance
(photo).
10If an exhaust gas analyser is not available,
turn the mixture screw anti-clockwise to
obtain maximum idle speed and then turn it
clockwise until the speed just starts to drop.
Re-adjust the idle speed screw to bring the
idle speed to the specified level.
11Switch off the engine and remove the test
instruments. It is advisable to fit a new
tamperproof cap to the mixture screw if it is
intended to take the vehicle overseas. This is
required to meet legislation in certain
countries.
Carburettor (Weber 32 TLF)
- removal and refitting ª
12Remove the air cleaner.
13Release the clips and disconnect the fuel
hoses from the carburettor. Take extreme
care that fuel spillage is contained and that
there are no naked flames in the vicinity of the
work area. Do not smoke.
14Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose
from the carburettor.
13•62 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9B.9 Mixture adjustment - Weber 32 TLF
carburettor9B.8 Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor
mixture screw location under tamperproof
plug (arrowed)9B.6 Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor idle
speed screw (arrowed)
9B.2E Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor
from above9B.2D Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor
from throttle linkage side
9B.2C Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor
from accelerator pump side9B.2B Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor
from choke linkage side9B.2A Weber 32 TLF 4/250 carburettor
from anti-run-on solenoid valve side

Idle speed and mixture
adjustment¢
29Before carrying out any adjustments, the
engine must be at operating temperature, the
fan having cut in at second speed and then
switched off.
30Release the locknut and turn the main idle
speed screw in the throttle valve housing until
the engine idles at the specified speed. This
should be all that is necessary to obtain the
correct idle speed, as the throttle valve plate
base setting is set during production.
However, if wear has taken place, or incorrect
adjustment has been carried out previously,
proceed in the following way.
31Disconnect the intake duct from the
throttle valve housing. Release the locknut on
the base (small) adjusting screw, and turn thescrew until there is a clearance between the
lower edge of the throttle valve plate and the
throat wall of between 0.05 and 0.1 mm
(photos).
32With the engine still at operating
temperature, start the engine, and having
released the locknut, turn the main (large) idle
speed screw fully clockwise to close the
bypass passage.
33Now turn the base (small) screw until the
engine idles at between 700 and 800 rpm.
Tighten the locknut.
34Finally, turn the main (large) adjusting
screw to give an idle speed of between 800
and 900 rpm.
35It is unlikely that the mixture will require
alteration, but if it does, connect an exhaust
gas analyser to the car in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
36With the engine at operating temperature,
prise out the tamperproof cap, and turn the
mixture screw, which is located in the airflow
meter, until the CO level is as given in the
Specifications. Turning the screw clockwise
richens the mixture, turning it anti-clockwise
weakens the mixture. Use a close-fitting Allen
key for the adjustment (photo).
Fuel injection system -
electrical testsª
37When carrying out checks to trace a fault
in the system, an ohmmeter should be used
for the following tests.
38Disconnect the multipin connector from
the ECU, and also the one from the system
control relay, and apply the probes of the
ohmmeter in accordance with the following
sequence to check for continuity in thecables. The component wiring plug will of
course be disconnected for the test.
ECU connector Component connector
plug terminal plug terminal
1 1 of ignition coil
2 2 of throttle position
switch
3 3 of throttle position
switch
4 50 of ignition switch
5 Earth
5 5 of airflow meter
7 7 of airflow meter
8 8 of airflow meter
9 9 of airflow meter
9 9 of throttle position
switch
9 18 of supplementary air
valve
9 87 main relay socket
10 10 of coolant temperature
sensor
12 Injector terminals
13 Earth
System control Component connector
relay connector plug terminal
plug terminal
1 1 of ignition coil
15 15 of ignition switch
30 Battery positive
31 Earth
50 50 of ignition switch
87 Injector terminals
87 18 of throttle position
switch
87 9 of ECU multipin socket
87b Fuel pump (fused)
13•68 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.42 ECU and component connector plug terminals - 1301 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9C)
For colour code see main wiring diagrams
9C.31C Checking throttle valve plate
opening with a feeler blade
9C.36 Using an Allen key to adjust the
mixture (CO level)
9C.31B Idle speed base setting screw (1)
and main adjustment screw (2)9C.31A Disconnecting the throttle valve
housing intake duct9C.27B Removing the air cleaner element

operation twice. Also prior to making
adjustments ensure that the supplementary
air valve pipe is in good condition, with no
leaks. Compress the air valve pipe using a
pair of grips to prevent incorrect adjustment
caused by a defective supplementary air
valve.
15The air cleaner must be connected when
checking and/or adjusting the engine idle
speed. To adjust, turn the adjuster screw in
the required direction to set the engine idle
speed to that specified.
16It is unlikely that the mixture will require
adjustment and unless this is proven by
measuring the exhaust gases using a CO
content analyser, its setting should not be
altered. As with idle speed adjustment, the
engine must be at its normal operating
temperature when making this check and
adjustment. It is also necessary to ensure that
the ignition idle advance is as specified.
Checking and adjustment must not be made
with the engine cooling fan, air conditioning
(where fitted) or other related items switched
on.
17If adjustment to the mixture is required,
prise free the tamperproof plug from the front
of the mixture adjustment screw in the control
unit, then turn the screw as required. Turn the
screw inwards (clockwise) to increase the CO
content or outwards (anti-clockwise) to
weaken it.
Throttle position switch adjustment
18This switch will not normally require
adjustment having been set during
production. The switch should not be
loosened off or reset unless absolutely
necessary.
19If a new switch is fitted it can be set by
loosely fitting the securing bolts, turning the
switch fully anti-clockwise, then clockwise
until one of the internal contacts is felt to click
into engagement. Hold the switch in this
position and tighten the retaining screws.
Reconnect the wiring multiplug to the switch.
Accelerator cable adjustment
20If the accelerator cable is removed or
detached from the support bracket at the
throttle control housing at any time, care must
be taken to adjust it correctly. When the inner
cable is connected to the throttle quadrant,
set the outer cable in the bracket so that the
inner cable has a minimal amount of free play,
yet does not prevent the throttle valve from
fully closing.
21When the engine is restarted, check that
the engine idle speed is as specified and that
the action of the accelerator is satisfactory.
Fuel pump and supply system checks
22Although the following basic checks can
be made to the fuel pump and fuel supply
system, specialised equipment is required to
undertake full and accurate tests of the fuel
supply system. Such checks must therefore
be entrusted to a FIAT dealer or a fuel
injection specialist.
23If the fuel pump is suspected of
malfunction, a basic check can be made by
turning the ignition on and listening around
the area of the pump unit to hear if it is
operating. The pump is located on the
underside of the car, just forward of the fuel
tank. If the pump fails to operate, check thatthe pump fuse is sound and that its
connection (and also that the relay) are clean
and secure.
24The pump can be further checked as
described previously for the LE2 fuel injection
system fuel pump in Part C of this Section.
Supplementary air valve check
25With the engine at its normal operating
temperature, allow it to idle, then pinch the
supplementary air valve hose using suitable
pliers as shown in Fig. 13.52 and check to see
if the engine speed drops by more than 50
rpm. If it does, the supplementary air valve is
defective and in need of renewal.
Injection system
components -
removal and refitting
Á
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of this Section before starting
any work.
26With the exception of the items mentioned
below, the various components of the fuel
injection system are removed in the same
manner as that described for the equivalent
items in Part C of this Chapter.
27Disconnect the battery negative lead
before carrying out any of the removal and
refitting operations. Where fuel lines are to be
disconnected it will first be necessary to
depressurise the injection system.
Airflow meter
28Release the retaining clips and detach the
air intake and outlet ducts from the airflow
meter.
29Ensure that the ignition is switched off,
then disconnect the multiplug from the ECU.
Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the
airflow meter complete with the ECU.
30If required, the ECU can be separated
from the airflow meter by undoing the
securing bolts.
Throttle valve housing/inlet manifold
31Loosen off the retaining clip and detach
the air intake duct from the throttle housing,
the air cooling hoses for the injectors and the
supplementary air valve.
32Detach the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage.
13•80 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.56 Disconnecting the injector air
cooling hoses and the supplementary air
valve hose on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)Fig. 13.55 Disconnecting the air intake
duct and accelerator cable from the
throttle housing on the 1372 cc Turbo ie
engine (Sec 9E)
Fig. 13.54 Accelerator cable adjustment
on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
1 Adjuster 3 Quadrant support
2 Inner cableFig. 13.53 Mixture adjustment screw
location on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)

Ignition unit
36This comprises four elements (photo).
a) Power module - receives the ignition
advance command and controls the
conduction angle of the primary current
and energy stored in the coil.
b) Dissipater plate - eliminates the heat
which is generated by the high volume of
current.
c) Ignition coil with low primary resistance.
d) Distributor - a means of distributing high
tension to the spark plugs. The rotor is
driven in an anti-clockwise direction
(viewed from transmission) by a dog on
the end of the camshaft.
37The system incorporates a safety
pressure switch, which cuts out the ignition if
the turbocharging pressure exceeds a value
of between 0.84 and 0.93 bars (12.2 and
13.5 lbf/in
2) above atmospheric pressure.
Distributor (Microplex) -
removal and refitting#
38Remove the distributor cap and place it to
one side, complete with spark plug leads
(photo).
39Turn the crankshaft by means of the
pulley nut, or by raising and turning a front
wheel with top gear engaged, until No. 4
piston is on its firing stroke. This will be
indicated when the contact end of the rotorarm is aligned with the mark on the distributor
body rim, and the lug on the crankshaft pulley
is aligned with the timing pointer on the
engine. The right-hand underwing shield will
have to be removed in order to see the marks
(photo).
40Unscrew the distributor fixing nuts and
withdraw the distributor.
41When fitting the distributor, the offset
drive dog will automatically locate the
distributor rotor in its correct position, but the
distributor body may require rotating in order
to align the rim mark with the rotor. The
elongated slots for the fixing studs are to
permit initial alignment, not for subsequent
adjustment, as advance angle alterations are
carried out automatically by the system ECU
(photos).
42Tighten the nuts and refit the cap with
leads.
43Unless a stroboscope and a vacuum
pressure gauge are available, it will not be
possible to check the advance values with the
engine running. Where these instruments are
available, connect the vacuum gauge to the
inlet manifold, and the stroboscope in
accordance with the equipment manufac-
turer’s instructions. Refer to Fig. 13.79
according to the inlet manifold vacuum
pressure indicated.
Microplex ignition system
components - testing ª
44An ohmmeter and a voltmeter will be
required for these tests.
45Remove the multipin plug from the ECU.
Engine speed sensor
46Insert the probes of an ohmmeter
between terminals 3 and 16 of the multipin
connector; 618 to 748 ohms (1301 cc) or
578 to 782 ohms (1372 cc) should be
indicated.
47If necessary, carry out a check of the gap
between the sensor and flywheel teeth as
described in Chapter 4, Section 10.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•89
10.39 Crankshaft pulley timing marks
(arrowed)10.38 Removing the distributor cap10.36 Ignition coil (1) and power module (2)
on 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
Fig. 13.78 Rotor aligned with distributor
body rim mark - Microplex ignition system
(Sec 10)
10.41A Distributor body showing elongated
slots in the mounting lugs
Fig. 13.77 Crankshaft pulley timing mark
aligned with timing pointer - Microplex
ignition system (Sec 10)
1 TDC sensor10.41B Distributor drive dog
13

4Using a ring spanner and an open-ended
spanner, unscrew and remove the caliper
cylinder housing lower guide bolt (photo).
Release the upper bolt, but do not remove it.
5Swivel the cylinder housing upwards and tie
it up out of the way. There is no need to
disconnect the hydraulic hose. The sensor
wiring plug will have to be disconnected
(where fitted).
6Remove the pads, complete with anti-rattle
springs (photo).
7Clean away all dust and dirt, taking care not
to inhale it as it may be injurious to health.
8The caliper piston must now be fully
depressed to accommodate the new, thicker,
pads. Do this using a G-clamp or lever, but
anticipate a rise in the brake fluid reservoir
level by syphoning out some of the fluid using
a clean syringe.
9Fit the new pads, which must be of the
same type as the originals, complete with
anti-rattle springs.
10Locate the cylinder body. The fixing bolts
are of self-locking type, and should be
renewed whenever they are loosened or
removed. If new ones are not available, clean
the threads of the old ones thoroughly and
apply thread-locking fluid (photo). Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque. Check that the
rubber dust excluders are in good condition.
11Reconnect the sensor wiring plug.
12Renew the pads on the other front wheel.
13Refit the roadwheels, and then apply the
footbrake several times to position the pads
against the discs.14Top up the brake fluid reservoir if
necessary (photo).
Front disc caliper -
removal and refitting#
15Raise the front of the car and remove the
appropriate roadwheel.
16Using a ring spanner and an open-ended
spanner, unscrew and remove the cylinder
housing fixing bolts.
17Withdraw the cylinder housing, and then,
holding it firmly, release the flexible hydraulic
hose union. Unscrew the cylinder body from
the end of the flexible hose, and then cap the
end of the hose to prevent loss of fluid.
18If required, the disc pads can be removed
and the caliper support bracket unbolted and
removed.
19Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new fixing bolts.
20Bleed the front hydraulic circuit.
Front disc caliper - overhaul
21The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 5, paragraphs 6 to 13.
Front brake disc - inspection,
renovation or renewal
22The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 6, but the caliper fixing
bolts are secured with thread-locking fluid;
lockplates are not used.
Rear disc pads - renewal ª
23Any wear in the disc pads can be
observed through the aperture in the calipercylinder body, once the car has been jacked
up and the roadwheels removed (photo).
24If the thickness of the pad friction material
is less than 1.5 mm, renew the pads on both
sides in the following way.
25Using a ring spanner and an open-ended
spanner, unscrew the caliper cylinder body
fixing bolts.
26Withdraw the caliper and remove the disc
pads, complete with anti-rattle springs (photo).
27Clean away all dust and dirt, but avoid
inhaling it, as it may be injurious to health.
28Fully retract the caliper piston in order to
accommodate the new, thicker, pads. To do
this, rotate the piston clockwise, using a
suitable tool engaged in the handbrake
sectors (photo). Anticipate a rise in the brake
fluid reservoir level by syphoning out some
fluid, using a clean syringe.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•101
14B.10 Applying thread-locking fluid to the
bolt threads14B.6 Disc pad and anti-rattle spring
removal14B.4 Unscrewing the caliper cylinder
housing lower guide bolt
14B.28 Rotating a rear caliper piston14B.26 Withdrawing the rear brake caliper14B.23 Rear brake pad inspection aperture
14B.14 Topping up the brake fluid reservoir
(1301 cc Turbo ie model)
13

14B.54 Master cylinder/vacuum servo
located next to the coolant expansion tank
(1301 cc Turbo ie model)
29Fit the new pads, complete with anti-rattle
springs (photo).
30Refit the caliper using new self-locking
bolts, or if not available, apply thread-locking
fluid to clean threads of the original bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
31Apply the brake pedal several times to
bring the disc pads up against the disc.
32Top up the brake fluid reservoir if
necessary.
33Check the adjustment of the handbrake.
34Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.
Rear disc caliper -
removal, overhaul and
refitting
¢
35Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 25 to 27.36Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
caliper. To do this, grip the cable nipple and
pull it until the cable can be slipped out of its
lever groove (photo). If necessary, slacken the
cable adjustment.
37Using a pair of pliers or similar tool, turn
the piston in an anti-clockwise direction until it
can be removed from the cylinder.
38Having obtained a repair kit, renew the
seal and dust excluder.
39Reassemble the piston to the cylinder,
turning it clockwise as far as it will go.
40Reconnect the handbrake cable.
41Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 30 to 32.
Rear brake disc -
inspection, renovation
or renewal
ª
42The operations are as described in
Chapter 8, Section 6, but the caliper bracket
fixing bolts are of the socket-headed type and
thread-locking fluid is used, not lockplates
(photo).
Pressure regulating valve
43The valve renewal and adjustment
operations are described in Chapter 8,
Section 10, but the luggage compartment
should be loaded with 45 kg and the load
applied to the bracket eye should be 11 kg.
Brake pedal -
removal and refitting#
44The brake master cylinder and vacuum
servo are mounted on the left-hand side of theengine compartment rear bulkhead. In conse-
quence, the brake pedal on right-hand drive
cars operates through a cross-shaft, which is
located underneath the facia panel inside the
car.
45The cross-shaft is supported in two
brackets, whose mounting nuts can be
reached through cut-outs in the insulation on
the engine compartment rear bulkhead (photo).
46To remove the cross-shaft, working inside
the car, take off the cover from the left-hand
end of the shaft, and then disconnect the
servo pushrod from the crankarm on the
cross-shaft (photo).
47Disconnect the brake pedal from the
right-hand crankarm on the cross-shaft
(photo).
48Disconnect the accelerator pedal by
extracting the split pin which secures its pivot
spindle.
49The cross-shaft may now be removed
after extracting the cotter pin from the
left-hand end of the shaft.
50Push the shaft first to the right, and then
to the left, to release it from its brackets.
51Alternatively, the cross-shaft, complete
with brackets, may be removed as an
assembly if the bulkhead nuts are unscrewed.
52Removal of the brake and clutch pedals is
described in Chapter 5, Section 4, but note
that on hydraulic clutch models, the master
cylinder will also require removal as described
in Section 11 of this Chapter.
53Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
13•102 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
14B.47 Right-hand end of brake pedal
cross-shaft14B.46 Left-hand end of brake pedal
cross-shaft
14B.45 Brake pedal cross-shaft fixed nut
(arrowed) on engine compartment rear
bulkhead
14B.42 Unscrewing a rear caliper bracket
bolt14B.36 Disconnecting the handbrake cable
from the caliper lever14B.29 Rear disc pad

Starter motor brushes
(later models) - renewal#
25When renewing the starter motor brushes
on later models, the old brushes will need to
be crushed (in a vice or with a hammer) and
their leads then soldered to the new brushes.
Fuses - later models
26The fuse arrangement is slightly different
on later models, but the circuits protected are
still identified by a symbol. Refer to the
Specifications Section for full details. Note
also the terminal block with plastic cover,
which can be used to isolate the battery from
the electrical system by disconnecting the
leads from the terminals (photos).
Relays (Turbo ie models) -
general
27On Turbo ie models, the relays mounted
in the fuse block are as shown in Fig. 13.103.
Additional relays are located as follows:
Headlamp relay - on lead under main fuse
blockFuel injection system main control relay -
adjacent to airflow meter
Headlamps later models
28The headlamp units fitted on later models
differ according to model, but the bulb and
unit replacement details are generally the
same as described for previous models in
Chapter 9. Note that the rubber cover can
only be fitted with the tab to the top as shown
(photo).
Headlamp beam adjusters for
load compensation - later
models
29Some later models are fitted with
headlamp beam adjusters which allowtemporary resetting to be made (such as
when the car is fully loaded). Access to these
adjusters is made by lifting the bonnet (photo).
30Turn the adjusters anti-clockwise to lower
the beam to the normal level or clockwise to
raise the beam (when the car is unloaded).
Repeat the procedure on the opposite
headlamp unit an equal amount.
31Other later models have separate
horizontal and vertical beam adjusters,
positioned as shown (photos). A load
compensating lever is attached to the
adjusters to enable temporary resetting of the
headlamp beams, without changing the
normal adjustment. Turn the lever to the
appropriate side (right or left) to make the
adjustment as required. The normal setting
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•105
15.26B Battery lead terminal block on the
1301 cc Turbo ie model15.23B Starter motor and wiring
connections on the 1372 cc ie engine
15.31B Headlamp vertical beam alignment
adjuster screw on a 1372 cc ie model. Note
the load compensator lever which is set in
the “O” (normal load) setting position15.31A Headlamp horizontal beam
alignment adjuster screw on a 1372 cc ie
model
15.29 Headlamp beam adjuster on the
999 cc Turbo ie model15.28 Headlamp unit fitted to the 1372 cc ie
model
15.26A Fuse block on the 1301 cc Turbo ie
model
13
Fig. 13.103 Auxiliary fuses and relays on
1301 cc Turbo ie models (Sec 15)
1 Horn relay
2 Heated rear screen relay
3 Foglamps relay
4 Radiator fan relay
5 Electric windows relay
6 Foglamps fuse
7 Radiator fan second speed fuse
8 Fuel injector fan fuse
9 Electric windows fuse
10 Electric fuel pump fuse

Auxiliary control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
61Disconnect the battery negative lead.
62Insert the flat of a screwdriver under the
trim piece at the end of the auxiliary panel as
shown and prise it free. Repeat the procedure
and remove the trim piece at the other end of
the panel (photo).
63Undo the retaining screws, withdraw the
panel from the facia. Disconnect the wiring
connectors from the panel switches to
remove the panel completely (photo).
64A switch bulb can be renewed by
untwisting the holder and removing the holder
and bulb.
65A switch unit can be removed from the
panel by unscrewing the four retaining screws.66Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and check for satisfactory
operation of the switches on completion.
Heater control panel
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
67Disconnect the battery negative lead.
68Pull free the heater/fresh air and blower
control knobs (photo).
69Undo the two retaining screws and
withdraw the control panel from the facia
(photos). Detach the wiring connectors from the
panel illumination lights and remove the panel.
70Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the wiring connections
are securely made and on completion check
that the operation of the controls is satisfactory.
Trip master Á
71This electronic instrument is fitted into the
check panel of 1100SL and 1300SL models
from 1986.
72The device provides information on fuel
consumption, range, speed and elapsed time.
73With the ignition key turned to MAR,
figures are displayed in respect of the last
journey - average fuel consumption, average
speed and elapsed time (up to switching off
the ignition).
74As soon as the engine is started, the
instrument processes the current values to
include fuel consumption, range and the
actual time. 75Fuel consumption is only displayed when
the road speed exceeds 8.0 km/h (5.0 mph).
76The fuel range is only displayed after a
road speed of between 25.0 and 70.0 km/h
(15.0 to 44.0 mph) has been maintained for at
least 90 seconds or at higher speeds for
22 seconds.
77A reset button is provided, also a display
change button (from instant to average or
total values). Should the instrument reading
exceed 99 hours, 59 minutes or 1000 km
(622 miles) depressing the display change
button will display all zeros. Depress button E
to resume normal function.
78Refer to the end of the manual for a wiring
diagram of the check panel, incorporating the
trip master.
Interior roof mounted spotlamp,
switch and/or clock -
removal and refitting
Á
79Disconnect the battery negative lead.
80Prise free the lamp unit from its aperture
in the roof panel using a thin-bladed
screwdriver. The lamp bulb can be inspected
by untwisting the holder and withdrawing it
from the rear of the unit (photos). Extract the
bulb from the holder if it requires renewal.
81To remove the lamp switch from the
panel, reach through the lamp aperture and
press it free from the roof panel (photo).
Detach the wiring connectors.
82To remove the clock, reach through the
lamp aperture and undo the retaining screws
(photo). Withdraw the clock and detach the
wiring connectors.
13•108 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
15.69B . . . and withdraw the heater control
panel15.69A . . . undo the retaining screws
(arrowed)15.68 Remove the control knobs . . .
15.63 . . . and withdraw the auxiliary
control panel
15.62 Prise free the trim covers for access
to retaining screws . . .15.59B . . . and disconnect the
speedometer cable15.59A . . . withdraw the instrument
panel . . .

83Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Reset the clock on completion.
Central door locking system
84Certain later models, equipped with a
central door locking system, have an infra-red
remote control for opening the door locks.
85It is important that the battery used in the
hand control is renewed when necessary with
one of identical type (Duracell 7H34). This is
only available as a FIAT spare part (No
7595393).
86The remote control door lock receiver unit
can be removed by carefully prising it free
from the roof panel and disconnecting the
wiring connector (photo).
87If either this unit or the hand control are
renewed at any time, recoding will be
necessary and this is a task best entrusted to
a FIAT dealer.
Cigar lighter
(later models) -
removal and refitting
Á
88Pivot back the cover and lift out the ashtray.
89Undo the retaining screws and remove
the trim together with the lighter unit. Detach
the wiring connector and release the lighter
unit from the panel.
90Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Electrically operated windozw
switches -
removal and refitting
Á
91The window regulator switches on later
models are located in the door pull trim. To
remove a switch, prise it free from the trim by
inserting a thin-bladed screwdriver under the
switch flange, then lever it free from its
aperture (photo). Take care not to damage thetrim. Detach the wiring connector to fully
remove the switch.
92Refit in the reverse order of removal and
then check the operation of the switch.
Windscreen wiper motor
(later models) -
removal and refitting
ª
93Disconnect the battery negative lead.
94Remove the bonnet as described in
Chapter 12.
95Remove the wiper arm and blade as
described in Chapter 9, then unscrew and
remove the pivot nut (photo).
96Undo the air inlet grille retaining screws
noting that two are not fitted with washers.
Where applicable, remove the washer
reservoir filler cap from the reservoir neck
protruding through the grille. Carefully prise
free and lift the air inlet grille clear of the body.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•109
15.81 Roof-mounted spotlamp switch
removal15.80B Roof-mounted spotlamp bulb
removal15.80A Prising free the roof-mounted
spotlamp
15.96B . . . and detach the windscreen
washer hose15.96A Release the air grille from its fixing
points . . .15.95 Unscrewing the wiper pivot nut
15.91 Prising free the window regulator
switch from the armrest15.86 Remote control receiver unit removal15.82 Roof-mounted clock retaining screw
removal
13