air filter FIAT UNO 1983 Service Service Manual

26Loosen off the knurled retaining nut and
remove the cover from the fuel pump relay.
This is located on the left-hand suspension
turret in the engine compartment (photo).
27Carefully pull free the fuel pump relay,
then start the engine and run it until it stops
(photo). The fuel system is now
depressurised. Turn the ignition off before
removing/dismantling any components.
28Do not refit the fuel pump relay or turn the
ignition on until the system is fully
reconnected. When the engine is ready to be
restarted, refit the relay and its cover, then
restart the engine in the normal manner.
Fuel pump and supply
system checks°
29Specialised equipment is required to
undertake accurate tests in the fuel supply
system and such checks must therefore be
entrusted to a FIAT dealer or a fuel injection
specialist. If the fuel pump is suspected of
malfunction, a basic check can be made by
removing the fuel filler cap then listening
through the filler pipe, get an assistant to turn
on the ignition whilst you listen to hear if the
pump is heard to operate in the tank. If the
pump fails to operate, check that the pump
fuse is sound and that its connection (and
also that of the relay) are clean and secure.
30The pump can be further checked by first
depressurising the fuel system as described in
the previous sub-Section, then disconnect the
fuel supply pipe at the injector unit and locateit in a suitable container. With the fuel pump
relay removed, connect up a suitable test lead
with a 7.5 amp (10 amp on models with
catalyst) fuse, in series, to the relay terminals
30 and 87, and check that fuel flows into the
container from the supply pipe (photo). If a
suitable pressure gauge is available for
connecting into the fuel line between the
engine compartment fuel filter and the
injection unit, check that the fuel pressure is
as specified at the beginning of this Chapter.
31If the pump fails to operate, check that the
battery is in good condition and that the pump
wiring connections are clean and secure
before condemning the pump. To remove the
pump unit from the fuel tank, proceed as
described in the following sub-Section.
Fuel pump -
removal and refittingÁ
32Release the pressure from the fuel system
as described previously.
33Move the front seats forward, then tilt the
rear seat cushions forward. Peel back the
luggage area floor cover from the right-hand
side towards the centre to expose the access
cover above the pump/sender unit in the floor.
Remove the access cover.
34Detach the wiring connectors from the
pump unit and the fuel level sender unit.
35Loosen off the hose retaining clips and
detach the fuel supply and return hoses from
the pump unit connections. Mark the hosesfor identity to avoid incorrect attachment
during refitting.
36Unscrew the retaining nuts then carefully
lift out and withdraw the fuel pump/level
sender unit from the fuel tank.
37Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. A new seal gasket must be used
and it is important to ensure that all
connections are securely and correctly made.
Injector unit -
removal and refittingÁ
38Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously, then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
39Remove the air cleaner unit and the
rubber seal (photo).
40Disconnect the engine idle speed check
actuator lead and the throttle position switch
lead from the side faces of the injector unit.
41Undo the retaining clips and detach the
fuel supply and return hose from the injector
unit. If crimped type retaining clips are fitted,
they will have to be carefully cut free and new
screw type clips obtained to replace them.
Take care not to cut into the hoses when
releasing the crimped type clips.
42Detach the crankcase ventilation hose
from the fuel injector unit.
43Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the
throttle lever on the injector unit.
44Undo the four retaining screws and lift the
injector unit from the inlet manifold. Remove
the gasket (photo).
45Clean the injector unit and the inlet
manifold mating faces.
46Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Intake air temperature
sensor - removal and
refitting
Á
47The air temperature sensor is located in
the top of the injector unit. It is basically a
resistor which varies its value in accordance
with the air temperature entering the induction
circuit from the air filter. The sensor can then
transmit the registered air temperature at this
point to the ECU temperature sensor (2).
48Remove the air cleaner unit and its
mounting bracket in the injector.
49Disconnect the wiring connector from the
13•76 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9D.44 Injector unit retaining screws
(arrowed)9D.39 Removing the filter seal from the
injector unit
9D.30 Test lead connected to relay
terminals 30 and 879D.27 Fuel pump relay removal9D.26 Fuel pump relay (1), injection control
relay (2), Lambda sensor fuse (3) and pump
fuse (4) with cover (5) removed

air temperature sensor. Undo the retaining
screw and remove the sensor from the
injector unit (photo).
50Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Fuel injector -
removal and refittingÁ
51Depressurise the fuel system as
described previously, then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
52Remove the air cleaner unit.
53Release the injector feed wiring mutliplug
and detach it from the injector.
54Bend over the locking tabs retaining the
injector screws, then undo and remove the
screws. Withdraw the injector retaining collar,
then carefully withdraw the injector (noting its
orientation) followed by its seal.
55Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Always use new seals in the unit and the
retaining collar and lightly lubricate them with
clean engine oil prior to assembly. Take care
not to damage the seals when fitting and also
when the injector is fitted; check that it
engages correctly.
Fuel injection electronic
control unit (ECU) -
removal and refitting
Á
56The control unit is located under the facia
on the driver’s side of the vehicle. Commence
by disconnecting the battery negative lead.
57To gain access to the control unit, detach
and remove the trim panel from the underside
of the facia on the driver’s side of the car.
58Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the
control unit, then undo the retaining screw
and remove the unit from the car (photos).
59Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Inlet manifold -
removal and refittingÁ
60Remove the fuel injector unit as described
previously.
61Drain the cooling system as described in
Section 8 of this Chapter.
62Detach the coolant hose and coolant
temperature sensor from the inlet manifold.
63Unbolt and remove the accelerator
cable/throttle linkage support bracket from
the top of the inlet manifold. The cable can be
left attached to the bracket.64Detach the brake servo vacuum hose
from the connector on the manifold.
65Unscrew and remove the inlet manifold
securing bolts and nuts and remove the
manifold from the cylinder head. As they are
removed, note the location of the fastenings
and their spacers.
66Remove the gasket and clean the mating
faces of the manifold and the cylinder head.
The gasket must be renewed when refitting
the manifold.
67Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spacers are
correctly located (where applicable) and
tighten the retaining bolts and nuts to the
specified torque settings.
Exhaust manifold -
removal and refittingÁ
68Remove the inlet manifold as described
previously (1372 cc models only).
69Disconnect the Lambda sensor lead
(photo).
70Raise and support the car at the front end
on axle stands to allow sufficient clearance to
work underneath the car and disconnect the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
71Straighten the tab washers, then unscrew
and remove the exhaust downpipe-
to-manifold retaining nuts (photo). Detach the
downpipe from the manifold. Support the
downpipe so that the Lambda sensor will not
get knocked and/or damaged.72Undo the manifold-to-cylinder head
securing bolts/nuts and withdraw and remove
the manifold and heat shield.
73Remove the gasket and clean the mating
faces of the manifold, cylinder head and
downpipe flange. The gasket must be
renewed when refitting the manifold.
74Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Tighten the retaining bolts/nuts to
the specified torque setting.
Catalytic converter -
general information
75The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
maintenance schedule - particularly, en-
sure that the air cleaner filter element the
fuel filter and the spark plugs are renewed
at the correct interval - if the intake air/fuel
mixture is allowed to become too rich due
to neglect, the unburned surplus will enter
and burn in the catalytic converter,
overheating the element and eventually
destroying the converter.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•77
9D.58B . . . for access to the ECU retaining
screw (arrowed)9D.58A Detach the multiplug (arrowed) . . .9D.49 Fuel injector unit sensor retaining
screw (1). Also shown is the intake air
temperature sensor (2)
9D.71 Exhaust downpipe to manifold
flange connection showing retaining nuts
and locktabs9D.69 Lambda sensor in exhaust
downpipe
13

c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start - see b)
above.
e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - if the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g) DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures and
the casing will become hot enough to
ignite combustible materials which brush
against it. DO NOT, therefore, park the car
in dry undergrowth, over long grass or
piles of dead leaves.
i) Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools
during servicing work, take great care
when working on the exhaust system,
ensure that the converter is well clear of
any jacks or other lifting gear used to raise
the car and do not drive the car over
rough ground road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
j) In some cases, particularly when the car is
new and/or is used for stop/start driving, a
sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs)
may be noticed from the exhaust. This is
common to many catalytic
converter-equipped cars and seems to be
due to the small amount of sulphur found
in some petrols reacting with hydrogen in
the exhaust to produce hydrogen sulphide
(H
2S) gas; while this gas is toxic, it is not
produced in sufficient amounts to be a
problem. Once the car has covered a few
thousand miles the problem should
disappear - in the meanwhile a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.
k) The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well driven car,
should last for at least 50 000 miles
(80 000 km) or five years - from this point
on, careful checks should be made at all
specified service intervals on the CO level
to ensure that the converter is still
operating efficiently - if the converter is no
longer effective it must be renewed.
Fuel evaporation control system
- general
76As mentioned earlier, fuel evaporation is
contained within the system. In high outdoor
temperatures, when the vehicle is parked for a
period of time, the fuel in the tank evaporates,
building up pressure. When the pressure builds
up to a predetermined level a vent valve opens
to allow the vapours to pass on to and absorbed
by a carbon filter. However, if extreme pressure
or vacuum should build up, a two way safety
valve opens to allow external venting.
77If the safety valve needs replacing, note
that it must be fitted correctly. The black end
should be connected to the fuel tank and the
blue to the carbon filter.
78The vapours in the carbon filter are
flushed by warm air passing through the filter
on to a ECU controlled vapour cut-off
solenoid.
79The cut-off solenoid is closed when
starting the engine and opens to allow
vapours to be drawn into the inlet manifold,
through a second solenoid. If the cut-off
solenoid needs replacing ensure that the
black arrow on the casing is pointing towards
the inlet manifold.
80The second solenoid, known as an Elbi
solenoid, is closed when the engine is turned
off, thus preventing engine run-on. The side
facing connection is for the inlet manifold
pipe.
PART E:
BOSCH L3.1/2 JETRONIC
FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of this Section before starting
any work.
Description
1A Bosch L3.1 (or L3.2, as fitted from 1992)
Jetronic fuel injection system is fitted to the
1372 cc Turbo ie engine. The system circuit
and main component locations are shown in
Figs. 13.48 and 13.49.
2The L3.1/2 Jetronic system is a multi-point
fuel injection (MPi) system. It operates in a
similar manner to that of the LE2-Jetronic
system fitted to the 1301 cc Turbo ie engine
described in Part C of this Section. The L3.1/2
system is more sophisticated and has the
ability to provide reasonably efficient engine
operation when system sensors malfunction.
As with the LE2 system, the fuel and air
supply mixture circuits are regulated in
accordance with the electronic control unit
(ECU), but on the L3.1/2 system the control
unit is attached to the upper part of the
airflow meter.
3The ECU analyses the information passed
to it from the system sensors. These signals
are then processed and the air/fuel mixture is
constantly adjusted as required to provide the
13•78 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.48 Bosch L3.1 Jetronic fuel injection system - 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
1 ECU
1A Diagnostic socket
2 Injection system relay and
fuel pump relay
3 Ignition switch
4 Battery
5 Fuel tank
6 Fuel pump
6A Primary fuel filter7 Coolant temperature
sensor
8 Intake air cooling radiator
(intercooler)
9 Air cleaner
10 Supplementary air valve
11 Throttle position switch
11A Throttle housing
12 Airflow meter12A Intake air temperature
sensor
13 Fuel pressure regulator
14 Fuel rail (to injectors)
15 Secondary fuel filter
16 Injectors
17 Injector cooling fan
18 Thermostatic switch (to
engage injector cooling fan)

optimum engine operating efficiency. In the
event of a system sensor malfunction, errors
in data passed to the ECU are overcome by
an emergency operation, whereby the ECU
supplies the injectors with one of two set
injection periods independent of the sensors.
One period (2.2 ms) is for idle speed and the
other (2.5 ms) is for speeds above idle
(actuated when the idle speed contact is
opened).
4An injection system relay and a fuel pump
relay are fitted and are located in the engine
compartment, adjacent to the ECU on the left-
hand inner wing panel. In the event of the
engine not being started within two seconds of
the ignition being switched to the “ON”
position, the fuel pump relay is deactivated.
The fuel pump circuit fuse is located in the
main fuse block located under the facia within
the car. Note: To avoid possible damage to the
ECU, it is essential that the ignition is switched
off before disconnecting (or connecting) the
wiring multi-plug from the ECU.A Lambda (or
oxygen) sensor is fitted to L3.2 equipped
models, to measure exhaust gas oxygen
content. In sending signals to the ECU,
optimum catalyst operation is maintained.
Fuel system -
depressurisationÁ
5The fuel system should always be
depressurised whenever any fuel hoses
and/or system components are disconnected
and/or removed. This can easily be achieved
as follows.
6The fuel pump relay is located next to the
ECU and airflow meter in the engine
compartment. Carefully pull free the fuel
pump relay, then start the engine and run it
until it stops. The fuel system is now
depressurised. Turn the ignition off before
removing/dismantling any components.
7Do not refit the fuel pump relay or turn the
ignition on until the system is fully
reconnected. When the engine is ready to be
restarted, refit the relay and its cover, then
restart the engine in the normal manner.
MaintenanceÁ
8Regularly check the condition and security
of the system hoses and connections. Also
check the system wiring connections for
condition and security.9At the specified intervals, renew the air
cleaner element and the fuel filter.
Fuel filter - renewalÁ
10This is located in the engine compartment
on the right-hand side. Disconnect the fuel
inlet and outlet hoses, but be prepared for the
loss of fuel. Loosen off the clamp and remove
the filter.
11Reverse the removal procedure to fit the
new filter, but ensure that the arrow indicating
fuel flow is pointing towards the fuel injector rail.
Air cleaner element -
renewalÁ
12Prise free the four retaining clips, then
remove the cover and the air cleaner element.13Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the air
cleaner housing, then insert the new element,
refit the cover and secure it with the four
retaining clips.
Checks and adjustments°
Engine idle speed and mixture
adjustment
14Before carrying out any adjustments, the
engine must be at its normal operating
temperature, the cooling fan having cut into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•79
Fig. 13.49 Fuel injection system components layout in engine compartment on the
1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
1 ECU
1A Diagnostic socket
2 Ignition system relay and
fuel pump relay
7 Coolant temperature
sensor10 Supplementary air valve
11 Throttle position switch
11A Throttle housing
12 Airflow meter
13 Fuel pressure regulator
15 Secondary fuel filter16 Injectors
17 Injector cooling fan
18 Thermostatic switch (to
engage injector cooling
fan)
Fig. 13.52 Idle speed adjustment screw (1)
on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
Note method of compressing the
supplementary air valve pipe (arrowed)
Fig. 13.51 Air cleaner cover securing clips
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)Fig. 13.50 Secondary fuel filter with arrows
indicating direction of flow - 1372 cc Turbo
ie engine (Sec 9E)
13

17Disconnect the air hoses from the
turbocharger (photo).
18Drain the cooling system, and then
disconnect the coolant hoses from the
turbocharger (photos).
19Disconnect the oil feed pipe, which has a
banjo-type union (photo).
20Disconnect the oil return pipe which runs
to the engine sump pan (photo).
21Working underneath the car, disconnect
the exhaust manifold support bracket (photo).
22Unbolt the exhaust manifold and lift it out
of the engine compartment, complete with
turbocharger.
23The turbocharger may now be unbolted
from the exhaust manifold (photo).
24Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
new gaskets and seals throughout.Turbocharger
(1372 cc ie engine) -
removal and refitting
Á
25Refer to Part E of this Section for details
and remove the inlet manifold.
26Drain the cooling system as described in
Section 8 of this Chapter.
27Unscrew the union bolt and disconnect
the oil supply pipe from the turbocharger.
28Loosen off the securing clip and detach
the air hose from the turbocharger filter.
29Raise and support the car at the front end
on axle stands.
30Working from underneath the car, unscrew
the downpipe-to-exhaust system joint nuts
then unscrew the retaining nuts and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the turbocharger
outlet flange. Remove the downpipe.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•83
9F.18A Releasing turbocharger coolant
inlet union (arrowed)9F.17 Releasing turbocharger air hose clip9F.16B Unscrewing turbocharger-to-
exhaust manifold nut
Fig. 13.64 Turbocharger oil supply pipe
connection (arrowed) (Sec 9F)9F.23 Exhaust manifold bolts
9F.21 Exhaust manifold support bracket9F.20 Turbocharger oil return pipe at sump9F.19 Turbocharging oil feed pipe
9F.18B Turbocharger connections
1 Exhaust connecting nut
2 Oil return hose 3 Coolant pipe union
13
Fig. 13.65 Detach the air hose from the
Turbocharger (arrowed) (Sec 9F)

31Unscrew and remove the two
turbocharger mounting bracket bolts.
32Referring to Fig. 13.67, loosen off the
retaining clip and detach the air hose from the
heat exchanger and the oil return pipe from
the turbocharger (to sump).
33Working from above, undo the
turbocharger mounting bracket bolts.
34Unscrew and remove the coolant
pipe-to-pump retaining bolts. The
turbocharger can now be removed from above
by withdrawing it together with the exhaust
manifold from the engine compartment.
35Locate and support the exhaust manifold
in a vice. Fit protector clamps to the jaws of the
vice to avoid possible damage to the manifold.
36Note the orientation and fitted position of
the turbocharger mounting bracket, then
unscrew the retaining nuts and detach the
bracket.
37Undo the retaining nuts, separate andremove the exhaust manifold from the
turbocharger.
38The turbocharger and wastegate valve are
not repairable and must therefore be renewed
as a complete unit. This being the case,
remove the following ancillary items from the
turbocharger unit before renewing it.
a) Loosen off the retaining clip and remove
the air outlet hose from turbocharger.
b) Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the oil return hose union.
c) Unscrew the union and bolt and coolant
inlet pipe.
d) Undo the retaining nuts and remove the
turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold
connector.
39Where applicable, always use new
gaskets and ensure that the mating faces are
clean before refitting the ancillary components
to the turbocharger.Intercooler -
removal and refitting Á
40The intercooler is mounted behind the
left-hand side of the front bumper/spoiler (photo).
41Disconnect the air ducts from the intercooler.
42Unscrew the mounting bolts and lift the
intercooler from the car.
43Refitting is a reversal of removal (photo).
Injector cooling fan -
removal and refitting Á
44This unit is located on the left-hand side at
the front of the car. It can be accessed for
removal from above, in the engine compartment.
45Detach and remove the air intake duct
from the air cleaner unit to the ECU/airflow
meter.
46Disconnect and remove the air duct from
the air blower unit.
47Undo the air blower retaining nuts, withdraw
the unit and detach its wiring connector.
13•84 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9F.43 Intercooler mounting bolt (arrowed)
on 1301 cc engine9F.40 Intercooler location (1301 cc engine)Fig. 13.69 Turbocharger coolant pipe-to-
pump bolt location (arrowed) (Sec 9F)
Fig. 13.68 Turbocharger mounting bracket
bolts removal (Sec 9F)Fig. 13.67 Disconnect the heat exchanger
air hose and the oil return pipe
(turbocharger-to-sump) (Sec 9F)Fig. 13.66 Turbocharger mounting bracket
bolts (arrowed) (Sec 9F)
Fault finding - fuel injection system
Difficult starting from cold
m mFuel pump fault
m mBlocked fuel pipe or filter
m mSupplementary air valve fault
m mCoolant temperature sensor fault
Excessive fuel consumption
m
mIncorrect mixture setting
m mDirty air cleaner element
m mCoolant temperature sensor fault
m mAirflow sensor fault
Difficult to start when hot
m
mChoked air cleaner element
m mFuel pump fault
Uneven idling
m
mIncorrect mixture setting
m mIntake system air leak
m mThrottle position switch out of adjustment
m mLoose ECU connector

Door closure sensor
117The sensor consists of a microswitch
within the lock. The switch actuates the
warning lamp according to whether the lock is
in the open or closed mode.
Check control system sensors -
testing
Brake fluid level sensor
118With the fluid level correct, switch on the
ignition and depress the centre of the
reservoir cap. If the sensor switches are
working correctly, then “FAULT” should be
indicated on the check panel.
Coolant level sensor
119With the coolant level in the expansion
tank correct, switch on the ignition and then
pull the wiring plug from the sensor. “FAULT”
should be indicated on the check panel. If it is
not, then it is the panel which is faulty.
120An ohmmeter should be used to check
for continuity, holding the float in both the full
and low level positions.
Engine oil level sensor
121With the oil level correct, disconnect the
wiring plug from the dipstick, and then bridge
the plug terminals (not dipstick side) with a 12
ohm resistor. Switch on the ignition.
122If the red light on the check panel goes
out, then the fault is due to the sensor.
123If the light stays on, then it is the check
panel module which is faulty.
Door closure sensor
124Any fault in the lock microswitch can best
be detected using an ohmmeter.
16 Suspension
Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refittingª
1A front anti-roll bar is fitted to the 1301 cc,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engined
models. Removal of the bar on all models isas follows. Firstly loosen off the front
roadwheel bolts, then raise the front of the
car, securely support it on axle stands and
remove the front roadwheels.
2Disconnect the two gearchange rods from
the transmission.
3Unbolt and disconnect the anti-roll bar
insulating clamps from the floorpan (photo).
4Unbolt the end links from the track control
arms and withdraw the anti-roll bar (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but only
tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified
torque with the car parked on level ground,
with four passengers and 40 kg of luggage
inside.
Suspension strut - later models
6The suspension strut upper mounting nuts
on later models also secure the brackets for
the mounting of ancillary components such as
the fuel filter, fuel system relays and fuses,
etc. (depending on model).
7When removing the suspension strut units,
it will therefore be necessary to detach and
support these brackets and their fittings
(photo).
17 Bodywork
Plastic components
1With the use of more and more plastic
body components by the vehicle
manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), rectification
of more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of such
damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment
and materials required for effecting such
repairs. The basic technique involves making
a groove along the line of the crack in the
plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The
damaged part is then welded back togetherby using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a
plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess
plastic is then removed and the area rubbed
down to a smooth finish. It is important that a
filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety
of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene). Damage of a less serious
nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be
repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part
epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in
equal proportions, this is used in similar
fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal
panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to
thirty minutes, ready for sanding and
painting.
2If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for
finishing which is compatible with the type of
plastic used. At one time the use of a
universal paint was not possible owing to the
complex range of plastics encountered in
body component applications. Standard
paints, generally speaking, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
Rear view mirrors Á
Interior
3The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off
its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat
occupant.
4To remove the mirror, grip the head and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•111
16.7 Suspension strut upper mounting
nuts, showing bracket and cable clip on
the 1372 cc ie model16.4 Anti-roll bar fixing nuts (arrowed)16.3 Anti-roll bar clamp
13

REF•4MOT Test Checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,
14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MSet of feeler gauges
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MBrake bleed nipple spannerMScrewdrivers: Flat blade and cross blade –
approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need
to be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraperMCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
MValve spring compressor (see illustration)
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor (see illustration)
MPiston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
MCylinder bore hone (see illustration)
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
Tools and Working FacilitiesREF•5
REF

Glossary of Technical TermsREF•13
REF
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Canister
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Air filter