check engine light FORD FESTIVA 1991 Service Manual

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INST RUMENT PANEL
1991 ACCESSORIES & SAFET Y EQUIPMENT Ford Motor Co. Switches & Instrum ent Panels - Standard
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
Instrument panel on Capri contains a speedometer, tachometer, fuel, water temperature, oil pressure and voltmeter gauges. A boost gauge is
incorporated into the tachometer on turbo models. Instrument panel is equipped with indicator/warning lights for charging system, air b ag,
manual shift, seat belt, turn signals, high beam and brakes. A CHECK ENGINE light, located on instrument panel, illuminates if a
computerized engine control fault occurs with engine running.
Instrument panel on Festiva contains a speedometer, fuel and water temperature gauges. Instrument panel is equipped with indicator/warning
lights for charging system, oil pressure, seat belt, rear defogger, turn signals, high beam and brakes. A CHECK ENGINE light, located on
instrument panel, illuminates if a computerized engine control fault occurs with engine running.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
FUEL GAUGE
Fuel Gauge Always Reads Empty
If fuel gauge always reads empty, check these items:
Check fuel gauge for open or damaged wires.
Check for open ground at fuel gauge sending unit.
Check for defective fuel sending unit.
Check for defective fuel gauge.
Check for defective instrument panel voltage regulator (Festiva).
Check for blown 10-amp METER fuse in fuse panel.
Check for open in Black/Yellow power feed wire from fuse panel instrument panel.
Check for fuel tank float full of fuel (sunk).
Fuel Gauge Always Reads Full
If fuel gauge always reads full, check these items:
Check for fuel gauge Yellow wire shorted to ground.
Check for defective fuel sending unit.
Check for defective fuel gauge.
Check for defective instrument panel voltage regulator (Festiva).
Fuel Gauge Inaccurate
If fuel gauge is inaccurate, check these items:
Check for faulty (loose or corroded) wire connections.
Check for defective fuel sending unit.
Check for defective instrument panel voltage regulator (Festiva).
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
Temperature Gauge Always Reads Cold
If temperature gauge always reads cold, check these items:
Check temperature gauge for open wire.
Check for defective temperature sender.
Check for defective temperature gauge.
Check for defective instrument panel voltage regulator (Festiva).
Check for blown 10-amp METER fuse in fuse panel.
Check for open in Black/Yellow power feed wire from fuse panel to instrument panel.
Temperature Gauge Always Reads Hot
CAUT ION: On m odels with Supplem ental Restraint System (SRS), observe safety precautions. T he air bag system
is powered directly from the battery and back-up power supply. Before any repairs are perform ed,
disconnect and shield battery ground cable. Disconnect the back-up power supply BEFORE servicing
ANY air bag com ponent. Use caution when working near steering colum n. Air bag could accidentally
deploy at any tim e.
NOTE:Ensure continuity exists between chassis ground and Black wire of instrum ent panel connector,
especially if fault exists in m ultiple gauge circuits. See appropriate chassis wiring diagram in the
WIRING DIAGRAMS Section.
Page 1 of 5 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - INSTRUMENT PANEL 1991 ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT Ford Motor Co. Switches
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Turbo Boost Gauge Always Reads High
If turbo boost gauge always reads high, check these items:
Check for damaged White/Black signal wire.
Check for defective boost sensing unit.
Check for defective boost gauge.
Turbo Boost Gauge Inaccurate
If turbo boost gauge is inaccurate, check these items:
Check for loose or corroded connections.
Check for defective boost sensing unit.
Check for defective boost gauge.
TESTING
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT
Capri
Remove rear seat cushion. Disconnect fuel pump/fuel gauge sending unit electrical connector at access cover. Turn ignition on. Fuel gauge
should read empty. Using a jumper wire, connect Yellow fuel gauge wire of vehicle harness connector to ground. Fuel gauge should read full.
If fuel gauge operates as specified, replace fuel gauge sending unit.
Festiva
Remove fuel gauge sending unit from tank. See FUEL SENDING UNIT under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Connect an ohmmeter and
check sending unit resistance as indicated in FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT RESISTANCE (FESTIVA)
table. Replace sending unit if
resistance is drastically different than specification.
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT RESISTANCE (FESTIVA)
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE (CAPRI)
1. Remove electrical connector from oil pressure sending unit located on right side of engine block. Turn ignition switch on. Oil pressure
gauge should read low. Install a jumper wire between Yellow/Red wire of oil pressure sending unit vehicle harness connector and
ground. Oil pressure gauge should read high.
2. If oil pressure gauge operates as specified, replace sending unit. If gauge does not operate as specified, check instrument panel power
and ground circuits.
OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT (FESTIVA)
Light Stays On With Engine Running
1. Turn ignition on (DO NOT start engine). Disconnect Yellow/Red wire from oil pressure switch connector. Light should go off.
2. If light stays on, repair short in Yellow/Red wire between oil indicator light and oil pressure switch. Reconnect wire to switch. Light
should be on with ignition on. If light does not go off when engine is started, check switch or engine for low oil pressure.
Oil Light Will Not Go On With Ignition On
1. Ground Yellow/Red wire at instrument panel connector. If light goes on, repair Yellow/Red wire between oil pressure switch and
indicator light or replace defective oil pressure switch.
2. If light does not illuminate, check bulb or check instrument panel ground circuit.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE (CAPRI)
1. Remove electrical connector from temperature sending unit located at front of cylinder head. Connect one lead of Gauge System Tester
(021-00055) to connector and other tester lead to ground. Set tester to 18 ohms, turn ignition switch on and observe temperature gauge.
Gauge should read 250°F.
2. Turn tester to 60 ohms. Gauge should read 175°F. Turn tester to 223 ohms. Gauge should read 100°F. If all readings are within twice
the needle width of correct reading, gauge is functioning properly. If readings are not as specified, replace gauge.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE (FESTIVA)
See TROUBLE SHOOTING for possible service areas.
TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT (CAPRI)
Remove sending unit from engine and place in container of water. Heat water to 176°F (80°C). Measure resistance between sending unit
connector and case. Resistance should be 49.3-57.7 ohms. If resistance is not as specified, replace sending unit. NOTE:Inspect fuel tank for distortion or dam age. If distorted or dam aged, repair or replace tank before testing.
Float PositionOhms
Full Position (Up)Approximately 7
Half-Full Position (Middle)Approximately 33
Empty Position (Down)Approximately 95
Page 3 of 5 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - INSTRUMENT PANEL 1991 ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT Ford Motor Co. Switches
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Fig. 2: Moving Quadrant on Drum Brake Adjuster (Festiva)

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
FRONT AXLE BEARINGS
Front bearing preload is adjusted during bearing replacement by changing preload spacer. See FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS under
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
REAR AXLE BEARINGS
With bearings installed, tighten NEW lock nut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (24-30 N.m) while rotating wheel. Slightly loosen lock nut so it can be turned
by hand. Install a lug nut into axle hub. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to lug nut at 12 o'clock position. Measure bearing preload.
Tighten lock nut until bearing preload, including seal drag, is 3.5-6.2 INCH lbs. (.4-.7 N.m). Stake NEW lock nut into notch on spindle.
TESTING
POWER BRAKE UNIT
Functional Test
1. Check master cylinder fluid level and hydraulic system for leaks. Place transaxle in Neutral or Park, turn ignition off and apply parking
brake. Pump brake pedal several times to eliminate vacuum from system, and hold pedal in depressed position.
2. Start and idle engine. If vacuum system is functioning properly, pedal moves downward under constant foot pressure. If no pedal motion
is felt, vacuum booster is not functioning properly. Go to next step.
3. Run engine for at least one minute and turn ignition off. Depress brake pedal several times. Booster is okay if pedal stroke is long at first
and becomes shorter with each stroke. If stroke does not shorten, check for a damaged, restricted or improperly connected check va l ve
vacuum hose. Repair and recheck. Go to next step.
4. Restart engine. Depress and hold pedal down. Turn ignition off and wait 30 seconds. Booster is okay if pedal height remains unchanged.
If pedal height changes, check for a damaged, restricted or improperly connected check valve or vacuum hose. Go to next step.
5. Connect a pressure gauge to master cylinder output line. Connect a vacuum gauge to booster and a pedal depression force gauge to
brake pedal. Bleed air from pressure gauge. Start engine. When vacuum gauge reads 19.7 in. Hg, turn ignition off. Watch vacuum ga u ge
for 15 seconds. Booster is okay if vacuum gauge reads 18.7-19.7 in. Hg. If vacuum gauge reads less than 18.7 in. Hg, proceed to next
step.
6. Restart engine. Apply and hold 44 lbs. (196 N) force to brake pedal. When vacuum gauge reading reaches 19.7 in. Hg, turn ignition off.
Watch vacuum gauge for 15 seconds. Booster is okay if vacuum gauge reads 18.7-19.7 in. Hg. If vacuum gauge reads less than 18.7 in.
Hg, proceed to next step.
7. With engine stopped and vacuum gauge at zero, check pressure gauge. Apply 44 lbs. (196 N) force to brake pedal and check pressure
gauge. Booster is okay if pressure gauge reads 256 psi (18 kg/cm
2 ).
8. Remove pedal force and start engine. When vacuum gauge reaches 19.7 in. Hg, apply 44 lbs. (196 N) force to pedal. Booster is okay if
pressure gauge read 768 psi (54 kg/cm
2 ).
Diagnosis
If booster does not function properly, see Fig. 3 .
NOTE:Axle lock nut on right side has left-hand threads. Always install NEW lock nut when rem oved.
NOTE:Inspect all vacuum hoses for holes, collapsed areas and secure connections. Ensure all unused
vacuum ports are capped.
Page 3 of 12 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - BRAKE SYSTEM 1991-92 BRAKES Disc & Drum
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ALTERNATOR & REGULATOR
1991 ELECT RICAL Alternators & Regulators
DESCRIPTION
Mitsubishi alternator is a 50-amp, conventional 3-phase, self-rectifying type unit, containing 6 diodes (3 main diodes and a smaller diode trio)
and a case-mounted Integrated Circuit (IC) regulator. A charge indicator light in the instrument panel indicates charging system mal fu n ct io n s.
See Fig. 1
.

Fig. 1: Charging System Wiring Schematic

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
ADJUSTMENTS
BELT TENSION
BELT ADJUSTMENTS
(1)
ON-VEHICLE TESTING
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
ApplicationNew BeltUsed Belt
A/C & P/S Belts110-125 (50-57)92-110 (42-50)
Alt. Belt110-130 (50-60)95-110 (43-50)
(1)Tension in Lbs. (Kg) Using Strand Tension Gauge
NOTE:Before testing, check alternator wiring harness connections, drive belt tension and battery voltage.
Ensure battery cables and engine ground cable are clean and tight. Wait at least 30 seconds after
starting engine before m easuring voltage.
CAUT ION: DO NOT start engine with "L" and "S" term inal connectors disconnected from alternator. DO NOT allow
"L" term inal to contact ground while engine is running. See Fig. 2
.
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Fig. 2: Identifying Alternator Test Terminals

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
1. Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Connect positive voltmeter lead wire to alternator "B" terminal and negative wire to ground. See
Fig. 2
. Ensure voltmeter indicates battery voltage. If voltmeter indicates zero volts, an open circuit exists in wire between "B" terminal
and battery positive terminal.
2. Remove voltmeter. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove output lead from alternator terminal "B". Connect a 100-amp ammeter in
series between "B" terminal and disconnected output lead. Connect positive lead of ammeter to "B" terminal and negative lead to
disconnected output wire.
3. Connect voltmeter in parallel between alternator "B" terminal and battery positive terminal. Connect positive lead wire of voltmeter to
"B" terminal and negative lead wire to positive terminal of battery. Reconnect negative battery cable.
4. Install tachometer (if necessary) to monitor engine RPM. Start engine. Turn all lights and accessories on and depress brake pedal to load
system. Increase engine speed to 2500-3000 RPM. Ensure alternator output is at least 35 amps.
5. Observe voltmeter reading. If voltmeter indicates .2 volt and amperage output is at least 35 amps, system is okay. If voltage drop is
greater than .2 volt, wiring is defective between alternator "B" terminal and battery positive terminal.
6. Allow engine to idle. Turn off all accessories to remove load from system. Disconnect voltmeter. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to
ground. Using positive lead of voltmeter, backprobe "S" terminal connector at rear of alternator. See Fig. 2
.
7. Increase engine speed to 2500-3000 RPM. With no load on system, ammeter should read 5 amps or more. Battery voltage with no load
at indicated speed should be 14.1-14.7 volts. If amperage output is less than indicated with or without load and no external faults exist
in alternator circuit, overhaul or replace alternator.
BENCH TESTING
Rotor
Check continuity across rotor slip rings. If no continuity exists, replace rotor. Check continuity between individual slip rings and rotor
core/shaft. If continuity exists, rotor coil or slip ring is grounded. Replace rotor.
Stator
Ensure no continuity exists between stator coil leads and stator core. Check continuity between leads of stator coil. If continuity does not
exist, replace stator.
Brushes
Inspect brushes. Replace brushes if worn to wear line (leading edge of small square cast into brush). Use a spring pressure gauge to push each
NEW brush into its holder until .079" (2 mm) projects from holder. Spring force should be 10.6-15.6 oz. (.3-.4 kg). If spring force is not
within specification, replace brush spring.
Rectifier
1. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between positive side of diode leads and heat sink. If no continuity exists from any positive
diode lead to heat sink, replace rectifier assembly.
2. Reverse ohmmeter leads, and check for continuity between negative side of diodes and heat sink. If continuity exists from any n e ga t ive
diode lead to heat sink, replace rectifier assembly.
3. Check diode trio (smaller diodes between main diode leads) for continuity in both directions. Continuity should exist in one direction
only. If any diode shows continuity in both directions or does not show continuity in either direction, replace diode trio.
Page 2 of 3 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - ALTERNATOR & REGULATOR 1991 ELECTRICAL Alternators & Regulators
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3. If voltage is not present or is less than 8 volts at starter solenoid terminal "S", malfunction in circuit to terminal "S" is indicated. Proceed
to the following tests.
IGNITION SWITCH TEST
1. Locate ignition switch connector under dash. Using a 12-volt test light or voltmeter, ensure voltage is present on Black/Yellow wire
when ignition switch is turned to RUN or ON position. This will verify proper operation of ignition switch.
2. If there is no voltage on Black/Yellow wire, the problem is either ignition switch or circuit between battery and ignition switch.
CLUTCH ENGAGE SWITCH (M/T) TEST
Unplug clutch engage switch from main wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across switch terminals. Continuity should
exist when switch plunger is pushed in and should not exist when switch plunger is released. If clutch engage switch does not operate as
specified, replace switch.
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH (A/T) TEST
Unplug neutral safety switch from main wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across switch terminals "A" and "B". See Fig.
2 . Place transmission shift selector in Park or Neutral position. Continuity should exist between terminals "A" and "B". Continuity should not
exist in any other transmission shift selector positions. If switch does nor operate as specified, replace switch.

Fig. 2: Identifying Neutral Safety Switch Terminals

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
1. Disconnect and ground coil wire from distributor cap to prevent engine from starting. Connect remote starter switch between starter
solenoid terminal "S" and battery positive terminal. See Fig. 3
.
2. Using a digital voltmeter set on low scale, connect positive voltmeter lead to battery positive terminal. Connect negative lead to starter
solenoid terminal "M". See Fig. 3
.
3. Engage remote starter switch. Observe and record voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should be less than .5 volt. If voltage at terminal
"M" is greater than .5 volt, move negative voltmeter lead to solenoid terminal "B", and repeat test.
4. If voltage at terminal "B" is less than .5 volt, inspect solenoid cable connections and solenoid contacts for problem.
5 . Cl ean so l en o id t ermin al s "B", "M" an d "S", an d rep eat st ep s 1 ) through 4). If voltmeter still reads greater than .5 volt at termin al "M"
and less than .5 volt at terminal "B", solenoid contacts are bad.
6. If voltmeter reads greater than .5 volt at terminal "B", clean cables and connections at solenoid. If voltmeter still reads greater than .5
volt, check for poor positive battery cable connection or bad cable. Repair or replace as necessary.
7. To locate excessive voltage drop, move negative voltmeter lead toward battery, and check each connection point. When high voltmeter
reading is no longer present, last connection point is bad.
NOTE:Make all voltm eter connections at com ponent term inal rather than at cable or wire end.
Page 2 of 6 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - STARTER 1991 ELECTRICAL Starters
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Using Mitchell1's Wiring Diagram s
INTRODUCTION
Mitchell1(R) obtains wiring diagrams and technical service bulletins, containing wiring diagram changes, from the domestic and import
manufacturers. These are checked for accuracy and are all redrawn into a consistent format for easy use. All system wiring diagrams are
available in color format and may be viewed and or printed in color or black and white, depending on your program settings and available
printer hardware.
In the past, when cars were simpler, diagrams were simpler. All components were connected by wires, and diagrams seldom exceeded 4 pages
in length. Today, some wiring diagrams require more than 16 pages. It would be impractical to expect a service technician to trace a wire from
page 1 across every page to page 16.
Removing some of the wiring maze reduces eyestrain and time wasted searching across several pages. Today, the majority of Mitchell1(R)
diagrams follow a much improved format, which permits space for internal switch details, and component and ground locations.
Components shown with a dashed line instead of a solid line indicate not all circuits are shown in this particular diagram (circuits shown in
system diagrams are typically applicable to that system only). The remaining circuits connected to that component will be shown in the
appropriate system that they apply to.
Today, the wiring diagram necessary to support a given repair procedure is included within that article or a link is provided to the appropriate
SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram for a Ford EEC-IV system may be included in ENGINE
PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system may be included in
ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram for an anti-lock brake system may be
included in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the specific manufacturer.
WIRING DIAGRAMS contains all wiring diagrams not included in STARTING & CHARGING SYSTEMS and ACCESSORIES &
EQUIPMENT. This includes: Data Link Connectors, Ground Distribution, Power Distribution, Engine Performance, Electric Cooling Fans,
Anti-Lock Brakes, Electronic Suspension and Electronic Steering wiring diagrams. The Data Link Connectors wiring diagrams show the
circuits by which the various on-board computers exchange information, and the diagnostic connectors used for diagnosis and their location.
The Ground Distribution wiring diagrams show all vehicle ground points, their location, and the components common to those ground points.
The Power Distribution wiring diagrams show the power feed circuits and the components common to those power feeds.
Wiring diagrams used to support the information in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT are drawn in a "top-down" format. The diagrams are
drawn with the power source at the top of the diagram and the ground point at the bottom of the diagram. Component locations are identified
on the wiring diagrams. Any wires that do not connect directly to a component are identified on the diagram to indicate where they go.
WIRING DIAGRAM COLOR ABBREVIATIONS
COLOR ABBREVIATIONS
WIRING DIAGRAM SYMBOLS
ColorNormalOptional
BlackBLKBK
BlueBLUBU
BrownBRNBN
ClearCLRCR
Dark BlueDK BLUDK BU
Dark GreenDK GRNDK GN
GreenGRNGN
GrayGRYGY
Light BlueLT BLULT BU
Light GreenLT GRNLT GN
OrangeORGOG
PinkPNKPK
PurplePPLPL
RedREDRD
TanTANTN
VioletVIOVI
WhiteWHTWT
YellowYELYL
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Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove air cleaner. Remove intake manifold bracket. Disconnect throttle cable.
Mark and disconnect vacuum hoses, fuel hoses and wiring. Remove intake manifold bolts. Remove intake manifold and gasket.
Installation (1.3L)
Clean all gasket mating surfaces. Ensure surface is free of burrs, scratches and cracks. Replace all gaskets. Position gasket and manifold to
cylinder head. Install bolts and tighten to specification. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Removal (1.6L)
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Relieve fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE under REMOVAL &
INSTALLATION. Drain cooling system. Disconnect intercooler tube and/or air intake tube. Disconnect air by-pass hoses. Disconnect
main engine harness electrical connection and TPS connector. Disconnect vacuum hoses from throttle body.
2. Disconnect fuel lines from fuel filter and pressure regulator. Disconnect throttle cable. Disconnect hoses from By-pass Air Control valve
( B AC ) . R e mo ve B AC va l ve r e t a in in g n u t a n d b o l t . R e mo ve in t a ke manifold retaining nuts and bolts from support bracket and cylinder
head. Remove intake manifold and throttle body assembly.
Installation (1.6L)
1. Install new intake manifold gasket, ensuring coolant passage openings align with openings in cylinder head and manifold. Install intake
manifold. Tighten retaining nut and bolts and support bracket bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of
article.
2. Install BAC valve and connect air hoses. Connect throttle cable. Connect fuel lines to fuel filters and pressure regulator. Connect main
engine harness connector and TPS connector. Connect vacuum lines to throttle body. Install intake air tube. Connect intercooler tube
and/or intake air tube. Connect air by-pass hoses. Fill cooling system. Connect negative battery terminal. Start engine and check for
fluid leaks and correct operation.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Removal (1.3L)
1. Raise vehicle. Remove catalytic converter inlet pipe at exhaust manifold. Remove pulse air tube nuts at inlet pipe. Remove inlet pipe
support bracket bolts. Lower vehicle. Remove air intake duct. Remove exhaust manifold heat shroud bolts and remove shroud.
2. Disconnect oxygen sensor connector. Remove exhaust manifold nuts and remove exhaust manifold. Remove gasket from inlet pipe and
cylinder head.
Installation
Position new gasket on cylinder head and inlet pipe. Install exhaust manifold and nuts. Tighten nuts to specification. See, at end of article,
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all bolts and nuts to specification.
Removal (1.6L Non-Turbo)
Remove intake air tube. Remove front exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold retaining nuts. Remove exhaust support bracket (if equipped). Remove
heat shield. Disconnect O2 sensor electrical connector. Remove exhaust manifold.
Installation (1.6L Non-Turbo)
Install exhaust manifold gaskets. Install heavier gasket first. Install exhaust manifold and tighten retaining nuts to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS table at end of article. Connect O2 sensor electrical connector. Install manifold heat shield. Install intake air tube.
Connect front exhaust pipe to intake manifold and tighten retaining nuts to specification. Install exhaust support bracket, if removed, and
tighten engine mount bolt to specification. Start engine and check for leaks.
Removal (1.6L Turbo)
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove throttle body air intake tube. Disconnect intercooler hose from
turbocharger assembly and position both intercooler hoses out of the way. Remove O2 sensor connector from its retaining clip, and
disconnect O2 sensor. Remove lower heat shield and then upper heat shield. Remove turbocharger side heat shield.
2. Remove power steering pump (leave hoses attached) and lay aside. Disconnect lower radiator hose from water pump. Position power
steering pump to access mounting bracket retaining bolts and nut. Remove both bolts and one nut, and remove bracket from engine.
Remove 2 screws retaining air cleaner duct tube, loosen clamp at turbocharger and position duct tube out of the way. Disconnect
coolant return hose at turbocharger. Remove bolt and brass sealing washers from oil supply line at engine block.
3. Raise vehicle. Remove retaining nuts and washers from exhaust pipe flange. Remove 2 bolts retaining exhaust hangers to engine block.
Slide off two rubber exhaust hangers at catalytic converter. Pull exhaust pipe downward and to LH side of vehicle. Disconnect oil return
hose at turbocharger. Disconnect coolant return hose at turbocharger. Remove 2 retaining bolts from turbocharger support bracket.
Remove 2 bolts retaining coolant by-pass tube outlet to water pump. Lower vehicle.
4. Loosen retaining clamp bolt on coolant by-pass tube at rear of cylinder head. Remove 11 retaining nuts from exhaust manifold. Pull
coolant by-pass tube bracket from exhaust stud, and position tube out of way. Grasp manifold, pull off studs and move assembly slightly
to RH side of engine compartment to clear cooling fan, and remove assembly from vehicle.
5. Working on bench, remove 4 nuts retaining turbocharger to exhaust manifold, separate assembly and discard gasket.
Installation (1.6L Turbo)
NOTE:Feed O2 sensor wire and guide through upper heat shield.
NOTE:When reinstalling turbocharger, thoroughly rem ove all gaskets and sealant. Use new gaskets. Add .85
oz. (25 cc) of engine oil in the oil passage of the turbocharger.
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bearing oil seal. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
WATER PUMP
Removal & Installation (1.3L)
Remove timing belt. Drain cooling system. Remove lower radiator hose and heater return hose from water pump. Remove water pump
retaining bolts and water pump. Clean gasket mounting surface and replace gasket. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Removal (1.6L)
1. Remove timing belt. See TIMING BELT . Drain cooling system. Remove timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Remove oil dipstick
bracket retaining bolt.
2. Remove power steering pump from retaining bracket, leaving hoses attached. Remove power steering bracket and position power
steering pump to one side. Remove water pump outlet. Remove water pump retaining bolts and water pump.
Installation (1.6L)
1. Clean all gasket surfaces. Transfer rubber belt cover seal to new water pump (if required). Position water pump with new gasket and
install retaining bolts. Install pump outlet with new gasket and "O" ring. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article.
2. Install oil dipstick retaining bolt. Install timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys. Install power steering pump bracket. Install power
steering pump. Tighten all bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article.
3. Install timing belt. Fill cooling system. Start engine and check for leaks and proper system function.
OIL PAN
Removal (1.3L)
Disconnect battery ground cable. Raise vehicle and drain engine oil. Remove flywheel housing dust cover. Remove oil pan retaining bolts,
nuts and stiffeners. Rotate crankshaft while removing oil pan. Remove baffle plate from oil pan. Clean gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
Installation (1.3L)
Ensure gasket surfaces are clean. Apply oil resistant sealer to front and rear engine covers and across joint line of cylinder block.
Removal (1.6L)
1. Raise vehicle and drain engine oil. Remove frame brace retaining bolt. Loosen RH "A" arm front bolt, and pivot brace downward.
Disconnect front exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold (or turbocharger). Remove exhaust pipe bracket retaining bolts. Loosen rubber
exhaust hangers at catalytic converter.
2. Allow exhaust to hang supported by mechanic's wire. Disconnect turbocharger oil return hose (if equipped). Remove oil pan retaining
bolts. Carefully pry oil pan loose from cylinder block.
Installation (1.6L)
1. Clean pan and block gasket surfaces. Apply Gasket Sealant (E3AZ-19562-A) to new front and rear pan seals. Install seals to cylinder
block. Apply Gasket Sealant (E3AZ-19562-A) to oil pan gasket surface. See Fig. 8
. Install oil pan and tighten pan retaining bolts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table at end of article.
2. Connect turbocharger oil return hose (if equipped). Install rubber exhaust hanger to brackets. Install new gasket and connect fro n t
exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold (or turbocharger). Install front exhaust pipe bracket. Tighten nuts and bolts to specification.
3. Pivot frame brace into position. Tighten retaining bolt to crossmember and RH "A" arm front retaining bolt to specification. Lower
vehicle, fill with oil and start engine. Check for oil leaks and system operation. NOTE:Raise engine slightly with floor jack, if required, to gain clearance for water pum p rem oval.
CAUT ION: DO NOT force a pry tool between cylinder block and oil pan.
Page 11 of 19 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - ENGINE OVERHAUL 1991-92 FORD MOTOR CO. ENGINES 1.3L & 1.6L 4-Cylinder
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3. If voltage is not present or is less than 8 volts at starter solenoid terminal "S", malfunction in circuit to terminal "S" is indicated. Proceed
to the following tests.
IGNITION SWITCH TEST
1. Locate ignition switch connector under dash. Using a 12-volt test light or voltmeter, ensure voltage is present on Black/Yellow wire
when ignition switch is turned to RUN or ON position. This will verify proper operation of ignition switch.
2. If there is no voltage on Black/Yellow wire, the problem is either ignition switch or circuit between battery and ignition switch.
CLUTCH ENGAGE SWITCH (M/T) TEST
Unplug clutch engage switch from main wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across switch terminals. Continuity should
exist when switch plunger is pushed in and should not exist when switch plunger is released. If clutch engage switch does not operate as
specified, replace switch.
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH (A/T) TEST
Unplug neutral safety switch from main wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity across switch terminals "A" and "B". See Fig.
2 . Place transmission shift selector in Park or Neutral position. Continuity should exist between terminals "A" and "B". Continuity should not
exist in any other transmission shift selector positions. If switch does nor operate as specified, replace switch.

Fig. 2: Identifying Neutral Safety Switch Terminals

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
1. Disconnect and ground coil wire from distributor cap to prevent engine from starting. Connect remote starter switch between starter
solenoid terminal "S" and battery positive terminal. See Fig. 3
.
2. Using a digital voltmeter set on low scale, connect positive voltmeter lead to battery positive terminal. Connect negative lead to starter
solenoid terminal "M". See Fig. 3
.
3. Engage remote starter switch. Observe and record voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should be less than .5 volt. If voltage at terminal
"M" is greater than .5 volt, move negative voltmeter lead to solenoid terminal "B", and repeat test.
4. If voltage at terminal "B" is less than .5 volt, inspect solenoid cable connections and solenoid contacts for problem.
5 . Cl ean so l en o id t ermin al s "B", "M" an d "S", an d rep eat st ep s 1 ) through 4). If voltmeter still reads greater than .5 volt at termin al "M"
and less than .5 volt at terminal "B", solenoid contacts are bad.
6. If voltmeter reads greater than .5 volt at terminal "B", clean cables and connections at solenoid. If voltmeter still reads greater than .5
volt, check for poor positive battery cable connection or bad cable. Repair or replace as necessary.
7. To locate excessive voltage drop, move negative voltmeter lead toward battery, and check each connection point. When high voltmeter
reading is no longer present, last connection point is bad.
NOTE:Make all voltm eter connections at com ponent term inal rather than at cable or wire end.
Page 2 of 6 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - STARTER 1991 ELECTRICAL Starters
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