transmission FORD FESTIVA 1991 Owner's Manual

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GENERAL INFORMATION
Com puter Relearn Procedures
COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES
Vehicles equipped with engine or transmission computers may require a relearn procedure after vehicle battery is disconnected. Many vehicle
computers memorize and store vehicle operation patterns for optimum driveability and performance. When vehicle battery is disconnected,
this memory is lost. The computer will use default data until new data from each key start is stored. As computer memorizes vehicle operation
for each new key start, driveability is restored. Vehicle computers may memorize vehicles operation patterns for 40 of more key starts.
Customers often complain of driveability problems during relearn stage because vehicle acts differently then before being serviced. Depending
on type and make of vehicle and how it is equipped, the following complaints (driveability problems) may exist:
Harsh Or Poor Shift Quality
Rough Or Unstable Idle
Hesitation Or Stumble
Rich Or Lean Running
Poor Fuel Mileage
These symptoms and complaints should disappear after a number of drive cycles have been memorized. To reduce the possibility of
complaints, after any service which requires battery power to be disconnected, vehicle should be road tested.
GENERIC COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES
Some manufacturers identify a specific relearn procedure which will help establish suitable driveability during relearn stage. These procedures
are especially important if vehicle is equipped with and electronically controlled automatic transmission or transaxle. Always complete
procedure before returning vehicle to customer. The following general procedures are to be used if driveability problems are encountered after
power loss or battery has been disconnected. These procedures may provide an aid in eliminating these problems.
Automatic Transmission
Set parking brake, start engine in "P" or "N" position. Warm-up vehicle to normal operating temperature or until cooling fan cycles.
Allow vehicle to idle for one minute in "N" position. Select "D" and allow engine to idle for one minute.
Accelerate at normal throttle position (20-50%) until vehicle shifts into top gear.
Cruise at light to medium throttle.
Decelerate to a stop, allowing vehicle to downshift, and use brakes normally.
Process may be repeated as necessary.
Manual Transmission
Place transmission in Neutral position.
Ensure emergency brake has been set and all accessories are turned off.
Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
Allow vehicle to idle in Neutral for one minute.
Initial relearn is complete, and process will be completed during normal driving.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00012612
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Drive Axle Noise Diagnosis
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
UNRELATED NOISES
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires and other parts of the vehicle. Make sure
that cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing any parts.
NON-DRIVE AXLE NOISES
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are exhaust, tires,
CV/universal joints and trim moldings.
In certain conditions, the pitch of exhaust gases may sound like gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow tires, can have a high-pitched tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard tires with an
unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive axle problems.
Trim and moldings can also cause a whistling or whining noise. Ensure that none of these components are causing the noise before
disassembling the drive axle.
GEAR NOISE
A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper bearing
preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving conditions, or it can be continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear noise, make sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been checked as possible
causes.
CHUCKLE
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while decelerating from 40
MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused by excessive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged tooth on the
coast side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough to cause the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is damaged or scored
badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove particles that could cause
damage.
KNOCK
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder, and occur on acceleration of deceleration. Knock can be caused by a gear tooth that
is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause knock. Knock can also be
due to excessive end play in the axle shafts. NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
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CLUNK
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is applied or released. It is
caused by backlash somewhere in the driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether driveline clunk is caused by the axle,
check the total axle backlash as follows:
1. Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part of the
frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2. On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it is felt to be in
drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction until it is again
felt to be in drive condition.
3. Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total axle backlash. If backlash is one inch or less, clunk will not be eliminated by
overhauling drive axle.
BEARING WHINE
Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle. It is usually caused by malfunctioning pinion bearings. Pinion bearings operate at
driveshaft speed. Roller wheel bearings may whine in a similar manner if they run completely dry of lubricant. Bearing noise will occur at all
driving speeds. This distinguishes it from gear whine, which usually comes and goes as speed changes.
BEARING RUMBLE
Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. It is usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The lower pitch is because the
wheel bearing turns at only about 1/3 of driveshaft speed.
CHATTER ON TURNS
This is a condition where the whole front or rear vibrates when vehicle is moving. The vibration is easily felt and heard. Extra differential
thrust washers installed during axle repair can cause a condition of partial lock-up that creates the chatter.
AXLE SHAFT NOISE
Axle shaft noise is similar to gear noise and pinion bearing whine. Axle shaft bearing noise will normally distinguish itself from gear noise by
occurring in all driving modes. Noise will persist with transmission in neutral while vehicle is moving at problem speed.
If vehicle displays this noise condition, remove suspect axle shafts and replace axle bearings. Re-evaluate vehicle for noise before removing
any internal components.
VIB R AT ION
Vibration is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grinding condition (felt or heard) that may be constant or variable in level and con occur
during the total operating speed range of the vehicle.
The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can be divided into 3 main groups:
Vibrations of various unbalanced rotating parts of the vehicle.
Resonance vibrations of the body and frame structures caused by rotating of unbalance parts.
Tip-in moans of resonance vibrations from stressed engine or exhaust system mounts or driveline flexing modes. NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00002193
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Clutch Trouble Shooting
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
ALL MODELS
CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
Problem & Possible CauseAction
Clutch Chatters/Grabs
Incorrect Pedal AdjustmentAdjust Free Play
Worn Input Shaft SplineReplace Input Shaft
Binding Pressure PlateReplace Pressure Plate
Binding Throw-Out LeverCheck Throw-Out Lever,
Check Throw-Out
Bearing, Check Bearing
Retainer
Uneven Pressure Plate Contact With FlywheelAlign/Replace Worn Parts
Transmission MisalignedAlign Transmission
Worn Pressure PlateReplace Clutch Assembly
Oil-Saturated DiscReplace Clutch Assembly,
Repair Oil Leak
Loose Engine MountsReplace Engine Mounts
Clutch Pedal Sticks Down
Clutch Cable BindingReplace Clutch Cable
Weak Pressure Plate SpringsReplace Clutch Assembly
Binding Clutch LinkageLubricate Linkage
Broken Clutch Pedal Return SpringReplace Return Spring
Clutch Will Not Release
Oil-Saturated DiscReplace Clutch Assembly,
Repair Oil Leak
Defective Disc FaceReplace Clutch Assembly
Disc Sticking on Input Shaft SplinesReplace Disc/Input Shaft
Binding Pilot BearingReplace Pilot Bearing
Faulty Clutch Master CylinderReplace Master Cylinder
Faulty Clutch Slave CylinderReplace Slave Cylinder
Blown Clutch HoseReplace Hose
Sticky Throw-Out Bearing SleeveClean/Lube Sleeve
Clutch Cable BindingReplace Clutch Cable
Broken/Loose BellhousingCheck Bellhousing
Rattling/Squeaking
Broken Throw-Out Lever Return SpringReplace Return Spring
Faulty Throw-Out BearingReplace Throw-Out
Bearing
Faulty Clutch DiscReplace Clutch Disc
Faulty Pilot BearingReplace Pilot Bearing
Worn Throw-Out BearingReplace Throw-Out
Bearing
Dry Bearing Retainer Slide For Throw-Out Bearing SleeveLubricate Slide
Slipping
Faulty Pressure PlateReplace Clutch Assembly
Worn Clutch DiscReplace Clutch Assembly
Incorrect AlignmentRealign Clutch Assembly
Faulty Clutch Slave CylinderReplace Slave Cylinder
No Pedal Pressure
Leaky Hydraulic SystemCheck Clutch Master
Cylinder, Check Clutch
Slave Cylinder
Check Clutch Hose
Broken Clutch CableReplace Clutch Cable
Faulty Throw-Out LeverReplace Throw-Out Lever
Broken Clutch LinkageRepair Clutch Linkage
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GENERAL INFORMATION
Manual Transmission Trouble Shooting
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
INTRODUCTION
There are many times when the transmission is incorrectly blamed for shifting problems or noises that are actually caused by other reasons.
Shift difficulties are frequently caused by conditions outside of the transmission or transaxle. Typical conditions include: shift linkage, shift
cables, alignment of engine to transmission, worn engine mounts or clutch problems. Drive train noises may come from many sources such as
tires, road surfaces, wheel bearings, differentials, engine or exhaust system. Repairing or overhauling transmission will not cure these
problems.
No manufacturer makes a perfectly quiet transmission. Gear rollover noise is present in most constant mesh transmissions and will tend to
disappear when the clutch is disengaged or transmission is placed in gear. If clutch is properly adjusted, clutch release bearing noise will
disappear when release bearing is moved enough to slide release bearing away from pressure plate.
Trouble shooting can be helped by driving vehicle on a smooth level road to help eliminate tire and body noise. Note whether noise occurs on
acceleration, coasting, deceleration or steady driving conditions. Some problems may only occur when transmission is either hot or cold. Gear
lubricant that is too thick can cause hard shifting on cold mornings before engine is warm and vehicle has been driven.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
NOTE:This is GENERAL inform ation. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. For m odel-specific inform ation see appropriate articles where
available.
ConditionPossible Cause
Noisy In Forward GearsLow Gear Oil Level, Loose Bellhousing Bolts, Worn Bearings Or
Gears
Clunk On Deceleration (FWD Only)Loose Engine Mounts, Worn Inboard CV Joints, Worn Differential
Pinion Shaft, Oversized Side Gear Hub Counterbore in Case
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsClutch Out Of Alignment, Shift Linkage Damaged Or Out Of
Adjustment, Gears Or Synchronizers Damaged, Low Gear Oil
Level
Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only); Quiet In Neutral
With Clutch EngagedWorn Rear Output Shaft Bearing
Gear RattleWorn Bearings, Worn Gear Oil, Low Gear Oil, Worn Gears
Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM)Broken Tooth On A Gear
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward GearsWorn Or Broken Synchronizers, Faulty Clutch
Loud Whine In ReverseNormal Condition (1)
Noise When Stepping On ClutchFaulty Release Bearing, Worn Pilot Bearing
Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is EngagedFaulty Release Bearing, Uneven Pressure Plate Fingers
Click Or Snap When Clutch Is EngagedWorn Clutch Fork, Worn Pivot Ball, Worn Or Broken Front
Bearing Retainer
Transmission Shifts HardClutch Not Releasing, Incorrect Gear Oil, Shift Mechanism
Binding, Clutch Installed Backward
Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All OthersBent Shift Fork, Worn Detent Balls
Locked Into Gear, Cannot ShiftClutch Adjustment, Worn Detent Balls
Transmission Jumps Out Of GearPilot Bearing Worn, Bent Shift Fork, Worn Gear Teeth Or Face,
Excessive Gear Train End Play, Worn Synchronizers, Missing
Detent Ball Spring, Shift Mechanism Worn Or Out Of Adjustment,
Engine Or Transmission Mount Bolts Loose, Transmission Not
Aligned
Shift Lever RattleWorn Detents Or Shift Lever, Worn Shift Fork, Worn
Synchronizer Sleeves
Shift Lever Hops Under AccelerationWorn Engine Or Transmission Mounts
(1)Most units use spur cut gears in Reverse and are naturally noisy.
Copyr ight 2009 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Article GUID: A00010942
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tube from evaporator core fins while removing thermostatic switch. To install, reverse removal procedure. Evacuate and recharge system.
THERMOSTATIC EXPANSION VALVE
Removal & Installation
1. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Remove evaporator housing. See EVAPORATOR
HOUSING under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Remove air inlet duct. See Fig. 1 .
2. Remove insulation from sensing bulb. Disconnect thermostatic expansion valve at evaporator tube fitting and inlet tube fitting (from
receiver-drier). See Fig. 3
. Remove thermostatic expansion valve. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings. Evacuate
and recharge system.
A/C RELAYS
Removal & Installation
A/C relays are located in left front corner of engine compartment, near battery. Unclip relay holder from its mounting bracket. Disconnect
relay wiring. DO NOT pull on wiring connector to remove relay from holder. Remove relay from holder. To install, reverse removal procedure.
A/C-HEATER CONTROL ASSEMBLY
Removal & Installation
1. A/C control module is located above radio. Remove accessory bezel. Remove radio (if necessary) and glove box. Disconnect
recirculated/fresh air cable from door lever. See Fig. 5
. Disconnect mode select cable from door lever. See Fig. 6 .
2. Disconnect temperature control cable from door lever. See Fig. 4
. Pull control assembly away from dash, and disconnect wiring
connectors. Remove control assembly.
3. To install, reverse removal procedure. Check and adjust temperature control, recirculated/fresh air and mode cables. See
ADJUSTMENTS. Test control assembly operation.
BLOWER MOTOR
Removal & Installation
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove A/C air outlet duct located below steering column. See Fig. 2 . Disconnect blower motor wiring.
Remove blower motor attaching screws and blower motor. Remove blower wheel attaching nut. Remove blower wheel and washer. To install,
reverse removal procedure.
BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR
Removal & Installation
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air duct located below steering column. See Fig. 2 . Disconnect blower motor resistor wiring.
Remove blower resistor attaching screws and resistor. To install, reverse removal procedure.
AIR DISTRIBUTION PLENUM
Removal & Installation
1. Remove instrument panel. See INSTRUMENT PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Drain cooling system. Disconnect
heater hoses in engine compartment. Disconnect wiring for blower motor and blower resistor. Disengage wiring harness and antenna
lead from bracket on front of air distribution housing.
2. Loosen connector duct-to-air inlet clamp screw. Remove upper and lower mounting nuts from plenum. Disengage and remove plenum
from defroster ducts. To install, reverse removal procedure. Refill cooling system, and check for leaks.
HEATER CORE
Removal & Installation
1. Remove air distribution plenum. See AIR DISTRIBUTION PLENUM under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Disconnect linkage
connecting defroster doors. Remove attaching screw located near blower resistor. Turn housing around and remove attaching screw
located near blower motor opening.
2. Remove clips retaining blower housing halves. Separate blower housing halves. Remove heater core. Remove tube insert from heater
core. To install, reverse removal procedure. Test system for proper operation.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
Removal & Installation
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel, steering column covers and multifunction switch assembly. Disconnect
electrical connectors from switches on instrument panel. Remove instrument cluster hood.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission. Remove 4 instrument cluster screws. Pull instrument cluster out from instrument
panel cluster enough to disconnect wiring and speedometer cable. Remove instrument cluster.
3. Remove steering column shield. Remove shield bracket. Remove glove box. Remove fuse panel cover and 4 fuse panel screws. Pull fu se
panel out, but DO NOT remove. Remove shift lever console and mount brackets. CAUTION: DO NOT rem ove screw in front of blower resistor, or blower resistor m ounting plate will fall into air
distribution plenum . T o retrieve plate, disassem ble instrum ent panel.
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whichever occurs first.
POWERTRAIN WARRANTY
Under this warranty, certain parts of the engine, transmission, axle and driveline are warranted against defects in materials and workmanship
for either 4 years/50,000 or 6 years/60,000 miles, depending on the model year. This coverage begins after 12 months or 12,000 miles. See
copy of warranty for specific components covered and length of coverage.
BUMPER-TO-BUMPER COVERAGE
All 1992-93 vehicles have complete warranty coverage against defects in materials and workmanship for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever
occurs first. There is no deductible with this warranty. Items not covered include tires and parts that are subject to normal wear and tear, such
as windshield wiper blades, brake linings, brake pads, clutch linings and scheduled maintenance items. There is no extended powertrain
coverage included in this warranty.
BATTERY COVERAGE
Begins at warranty start date and lasts up to 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first. For the first 12 months in service (less than
36,000 miles), battery will be replaced at no charge. After that, battery will be replaced on a customer-participation basis: For the 13th-24th
month in service, Ford will pay 50%; for the 25th-36th month, Ford will pay 25%. Labor is covered for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever
occurs first.
SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEM COVERAGE
Begins at warranty start date and lasts for 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Covers safety restraint problems not related to
comfort or appearance. Coverage for model years earlier than 1990 is 3 years with unlimited miles.
CORROSION COVERAGE
Begins at warranty start date and lasts for 6 years or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. 1992-93 models are covered for 6 years or 100,000
miles, whichever occurs first. Covers any holes in body sheet metal caused by corrosion.
EMISSIONS DEFECT & PERFORMANCE WARRANTIES (EXCEPT CALIFORNIA)
Defect Warranty ensures that vehicle meets applicable EPA regulations and that vehicle's emission control system is free from defects in
materials and workmanship for a period of 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The Performance Warranty covers all costs of repairing or adjusting any components or parts as needed for the vehicle to pass a Federally
required state or local emissions test.
Other emission control parts related to these components are covered by the Performance Warranty, where applicable. If another part fails due
to the failure of one of these components, both parts are covered. See customer's copy of warranty information for specific items co vered .
Performance Warranty coverage is limited to fewer components after 2 years or 24,000 miles.
EMISSIONS PERFORMANCE WARRANTY (CALIFORNIA)
If vehicle fails a Smog Check inspection, all necessary repairs and adjustments will be made by manufacturer to ensure that vehicle passes the
inspection. Warranty begins at warranty start date and lasts for a period of 3 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
EMISSIONS DEFECT WARRANTY (CALIFORNIA)
If any emission-related part on the vehicle is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by manufacturer. Warranty begins at warranty start
date and lasts for a period of 3 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Some emission-related parts are warranted for 7 years or 70,000 miles whichever occurs first, and will be repaired or replaced by manufacturer
if found to be defective in material or workmanship. See customer's copy of warranty information for specific items covered.
FUSES & FUSIBLE LINKS
FUSE PANEL & FUSIBLE LINK BLOCK LOCATIONS
The vehicle has a fuse block with fusible links and a fuse panel with circuit fuses. The fuse panel is located behind the instrument panel, left o
f
the steering column. The fuse block is located under the hood.
FUSE PANEL IDENTIFICATION NOTE:Powertrain Warranty varies in coverage length (4 years/50,000 m iles or 6 years/60,000 m iles) depending
on model year.
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1988-94 AUT OMAT IC T RANSMISSIONS
Ford ATX Overhaul
APPLICATION
APPLICATION
DESCRIPTION
The transaxle consists of 3 main units: automatic transaxle, torque converter and differential assembly. The automatic transaxle consists of
front and rear clutches, one-way clutch, low-reverse brake assembly, oil pump and hydraulic controls (valve body and servo piston
assemblies). The valve body is controlled by the governor valve, vacuum throttle valve diaphragm (modulator) and kickdown solenoid. The
torque converter on the Aspire model is a mechanically operated (centrifugal type) torque converter clutch. See Fig. 1
.

Fig. 1: Transaxle Component Identification

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
LUBRICATION & ADJUSTMENTS
See the appropriate TRANSMISSION SERVICING - A/T article in this section. Refer to the following menu:
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
BAND APPLY SERVO R & I
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove left front wheel. Drain transaxle fluid. Remove valve body. See VALVE BODY . Remove front
stabilizer frame brackets. Carefully raise staked portion of left axle nut. Apply brakes and loosen, but DO NOT remove, axle nut.
Remove left lower control arm ball joint clamp bolt. Pry downward on lower control arm to separate control arm from knuckle.
2. Insert pry bar between transaxle case and left axle flange. Carefully apply force to pry bar until axle circlip is disengaged. Slide knuckle
assembly off axle shaft, and remove axle from vehicle. Quickly install appropriate plug in transaxle.
3. Loosen band adjusting stop and band adjusting stop nut. Remove band strut. Using "C" clamp and socket, compress servo piston into
transaxle case. See Fig. 2
. Remove snap ring. Remove servo retainer, servo piston and spring.
Installation
1. Lubricate servo piston with ATF. Assembly servo retainer, piston, piston large seal and spring. Insert assembly into transaxle. Usin g "C"
clamp and socket, compress assembly and install snap ring. See Fig. 2
. Install band strut to intermediate band. Install band adjusting
stop to band and tighten to 9-10 ft. lbs. (12-15 N.m). Loosen adjusting stop 3 turns. Install and tighten band adjusting stop nut. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
.
2. Install remaining components in reverse order of disassembly. Fill transaxle with fluid.
ApplicationTransmission
1988-89 Mercury TracerATX
1988-93 Ford FestivaATX
1994 Ford AspireATX
NOTE:T he AT X transaxle is used in som e Mazda m odels and is referred to as the F3A for those m odels. T he
AT X transaxle is also used in som e General Motors and Isuzu m odels and m ay be referred to as the
KF100, KF400 or RMC. Som e of the figures used in this article are courtesy of General Motors Corp. and
are valid figures for this Ford Motor Co. transaxle.
Page 1 of 26 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - 1988-94 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS Ford ATX Overhaul
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Fig. 2: Compressing Band Apply Servo

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
DIFFERENTIAL OIL SEALS R & I
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Drain transaxle fluid. Carefully raise staked portion of axle nut. Apply brakes and loosen, but DO NOT
remove, axle nut. Remove lower control arm ball joint clamp bolt. Pry downward on lower control arm to separate control arm from
knuckle.
2. Insert pry bar between transaxle case and axle flange. Carefully apply force to pry bar until axle circlip is disengaged. Slide knuckle
assembly off axle shaft, and remove axle from vehicle. Quickly install appropriate plug in transaxle. Using appropriate puller, remove
seal.
Installation
1. Apply lubrication to new seal. Using appropriate driver, install seal. Install new circlip on transaxle end of axle. Remove transaxle plug,
and carefully install axle into transaxle. Ensure circlip snaps into retaining groove.
2. Install axle into hub. Install NEW axle nut. Tighten bolts to specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
. Stake NEW axle nut
with blunt nose chisel. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Fill transaxle fluid to correct level.
OIL COOLER FLUSHING
Contaminates MUST be removed from oil cooler before transmission is put back into service. Replace cooler supply tubes if leaking.
Thoroughly flush oil cooler and lines if a major service or transaxle removal has occurred. It is recommended that a mechanically agitated
cleaner, such as Rotunda (014-00028), be used.
VACUUM THROTTLE VALVE DIAPHRAGM (MODULATOR) R & I
Removal
1. Drain transaxle fluid. Disconnect vacuum hose from modulator. Unscrew modulator from transaxle. Remove control rod. With beveled
side out, insert Vacuum Diaphragm Rod Gauge (T87C-77000-A) into mounting hole until gauge bottoms out.
2. Place gauge rod through opening of gauge until rod bottoms out against vacuum throttle valve. Tighten lock knob on gauge and remove
tool. Using depth gauge, measure distance from flat surface of gauge to end of rod. See Fig. 3
. Select proper length throttle valve rod.
See THROTTLE VALVE ROD DIMENSION CHART
.
THROTTLE VALVE ROD DIMENSION CHART
Installation
Install selected throttle valve rod. Coat threads of modulator with appropriate sealant. To install, reverse removal procedures.
NOTE:If replacing m odulator, it is necessary to replace throttle control valve rod.
Measurement In. (mm)Applicable Rod Length In. (mm)
1.0 (25.4)1.16 (29.5)
1.0-1.02 (25.4-25.9)1.18 (30.0)
1.02-1.04 (25.9-26.4)1.20 (30.5)
1.04-1.06 (25.9-26.4)1.22 (31.0)
1.06-1.08 (26.9-27.4)1.24 (31.5)
Page 2 of 26 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - 1988-94 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS Ford ATX Overhaul
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Fig. 3: Identifying Vacuum Diaphragm Rod Gauge

Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
VALVE BODY R & I
Removal & Installation
Disconnect battery ground cable. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front fender splash shield and front splash shield. Drain transaxle fluid.
Unbolt and remove oil pan. Remove 9 valve body bolts. Remove valve body. Ensure care is used not to loose check ball and detent spring. To
install, reverse removal procedure. Fill transaxle with fluid. Check for leaks.
TROUBLESHOOTING
PRELIMINARY INSPECTION
1. Ensure vehicle is thoroughly road tested to verify driver's complaint. Determine if problem occurs during upshift, downshift, coasting or
engagement. If noise is diagnosed, check if noise is affected by RPM, vehicle speed, gear selection or temperature. Ensure vehicle is at
normal operating temperature when checking.
2. Inspect fluid level and condition. Visually inspect for vehicle modifications, electronic add-ons, fluid leaks and/or incorrect linkage
adjustment. See applicable symptom diagnosis.
SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Engine Starts in "D", "2", "1" OR "R", or will not Start in "N" OR "P"
Check ignition and starter circuit. Shift linkage faulty or installed improperly. Park/Neutral switch and/or wiring faulty.
No Movement In Any Gear
Incorrect fluid level. Shift linkage faulty or out of adjustment. Incorrect oil pressure. Manual control valve faulty. Faulty oil pump. Leak in
hydraulic system. Parking linkage improperly adjusted.
No Movement In "D", Okay In Other Gears
Shift linkage faulty, out of adjustment or improperly installed. Incorrect oil pressure. Manual control valve faulty. Faulty one-way clutch.
No Movement In "D", "2" Or "1", Okay In "R"
Incorrect fluid level. Shift linkage faulty, out of adjustment or incorrectly installed. Incorrect oil pressure. Manual control valve faulty. Engine
performance poor or brakes improperly adjusted. Rear clutch faulty. Leak in hydraulic system.
No Movement In "R", Okay In Other Gears
Incorrect fluid level. Shift linkage faulty, out of adjustment or incorrectly installed. Incorrect oil pressure. Manual control valve faulty. Faulty
rear clutch, front clutch or low-reverse brake. Leak in hydraulic system.
Slippage
Page 3 of 26 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - 1988-94 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS Ford ATX Overhaul
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