drain bolt FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

Ignition system
Firing order:HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)
All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Spark plugs*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) and PTE engines Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . Champion RC7YCC4 or RC7YC4
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . Champion C61YC
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RE7YCC
Electrode gap*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines: With Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mmWith Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 mm
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines: Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1.0 mm
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 0.7 mm
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . Champion LS-28
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-14
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-26
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms * Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended b\
y Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their
manufacturer’s recommendations.
Braking system
Minimum front brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Tyres
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”
Wiper blades
Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-4803Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . Champion X-4103
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment: Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2216
Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 2216
Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 129
Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2418
Tensioner pulley centre bolt (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 2418
Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Spark plugs: HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1813
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2418
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 1511
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 71 to 100 52 to 74
Servicing Specifications1•3
1
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8Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the
rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side
as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to
the thermostat end of the cylinder head when
fitted) (see illustration) . This is essential for
the correct lubrication of the cylinder head
components.
9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them to
the specified torque wrench setting. As they
are tightened, some of the rocker arms will
apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems,
and some of the rocker pedestals will not
initially be in contact with the cylinder head -
these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened to their specified torque. If for any
reason they do not, avoid the temptation to
overtighten in order to pull them into position;
loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of
the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster
screws require loosening off in order to allow
the assembly to be tightened down as
required.
11 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
7 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner.
4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker
cover. 5
Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing.
7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from
the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where
applicable.
8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B).
9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet
manifold as applicable.
10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the carburettor, or at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel.
11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and
remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling
fan, the engine coolant temperature sender,
and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at
the carburettor.
13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where
fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe.
14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter
assembly as described in Chapter 4E.
15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note
that both the gasket and the joint self-locking
nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the
exhaust system from being strained, tie the
downpipe up using strong wire or a length of
cord to support it. Lower the vehicle.
17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear
the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder
head.
18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order
of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder head.
Alternatively, push them through a piece of
card in their fitted sequence.
19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the
cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse
sequence to that shown for tightening (see
illustration 7.27a). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the
cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If
it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and
block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is
located by dowels; make no attempt
whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver
inserted between the block and head faces.
The gasket must always be renewed; it should
be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts
may be re-used, but only once. They should
be marked accordingly with a punch or paint
mark. If there is any doubt as to how many
times the bolts have been used, they must be
renewed.
20
To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head,
refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for
the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the
valves to be reground whenever the head is
removed.
Preparation for refitting
21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean
out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt
into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases)
cause the block to fracture, due to the
hydraulic pressure.
Refitting
25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket
is the same type as the original, and that the
“TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing
upwards. Locate the new cylinder head
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to
same side as rocker arm adjusting screws
2A
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Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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gasket onto the top face of the cylinder block
and over the dowels. Ensure that it is correctly
aligned with the coolant passages and
oilways (see illustration) .
26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into
position, then insert the retaining bolts and
hand-tighten them.
27 Tightening of the cylinder head bolts must
done in three stages, and in the correct
sequence (see illustration) . First tighten all of
the bolts in the sequence shown to the
Stage 1 torque setting (see illustration).
When all of the bolts are tightened to the
Stage 1 setting, further tighten each bolt (in
sequence) through the Stage 2 specified
angle of rotation. When the second stage
tightening is completed on all of the bolts,
further tighten them to the Stage 3 angle
setting (in sequence) to complete. Where
possible, use an angular torque setting gauge
attachment tool for accurate tightening of
stages two and three (see illustration).
28 Lubricate the pushrods with clean engine
oil, and then insert them into their original
locations in the engine.
29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
30 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them
to the specified torque wrench setting. As
they are tightened, some of the rocker arms
will apply pressure to the ends of the valve
stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will
not initially be in contact with the cylinder head - these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened. If for any reason they do not, avoid
the temptation to overtighten in order to pull
them into position; loosen off the bolts, and
check the cause of the problem. It may be
that the rocker adjuster screws require
loosening off in order to allow the assembly to
be tightened down as required.
31
Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
32 Refit the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
33 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components. Ensure
that all coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
34 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks” ). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.
8 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel.
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Loosen off the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent the crankshaft from turning,
unbolt and remove the clutch housing cover
plate. Lock the starter ring gear on the
flywheel using a large screwdriver or similar
tool inserted through the cover plate aperture.
Alternatively, remove the starter motor
(Chapter 5A) and lock the ring gear through
the starter motor aperture. 5
Fully unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt,
and withdraw the pulley from the front end of
the crankshaft. If it does not pull off by hand,
lever it free using a pair of suitable levers
positioned diagonally opposite each other
behind the pulley.
6 If required, the crankshaft front oil seal can
be renewed at this stage, as described in
Section 14.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure ensuring that the pulley retaining
bolt is tightened to the specified torque
setting.
8 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1, and lower the vehicle to complete.
9 Timing chain cover -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
tion 11.
2 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
in the previous Section.
3 A combined timing cover and water pump
gasket is fitted during production; if this is still
in position, it will be necessary to drain the
cooling system and remove the water pump
as described in Chapter 3. If the water pump
and/or the timing cover have been removed at
any time, the single gasket used originally will
have been replaced by an individual gasket
for each component, in which case the water
pump can remain in position.
4 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and carefully
prise free the timing chain cover.
5 Clean the mating faces of the timing chain
cover, and the engine.
6 If necessary, renew the crankshaft front oil
seal in the timing cover prior to refitting the
cover (see Section 14).
Refitting
7 Lightly lubricate the front end of the
crankshaft and the radial lip of the timing
chain cover oil seal (already installed in the
2A•6 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
7.27c Cylinder head bolt tightening
(Stages 2 and 3) using an angle gauge
7.27b Tightening the cylinder head bolts (Stage 1)7.27a Cylinder head bolt tighteningsequence7.25 Cylinder head gasket top-facemarking (“OBEN”)
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cover). Using a new gasket, fit the timing
chain cover, centring it with the aid of the
crankshaft pulley - lubricate the seal contact
surfaces beforehand. Refit and tighten the
retaining bolts but, where applicable, leave
out the timing cover bolt which also secures
the water pump at this stage.
8Where applicable, refit the water pump as
described in Chapter 3.
9 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in
the previous Section.
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 11.
10Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the timing chain cover as
described in the previous Section.
2 Remove the oil slinger from the front face of
the crankshaft, noting its orientation (see
illustration) .
3 Retract the chain tensioner cam back
against its spring pressure, then slide the
chain tensioner arm from its pivot pin on the
front main bearing cap (see illustration).
4 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner.
5 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the
camshaft sprocket bolts, then unscrew and
remove the bolts.
6 Withdraw the sprocket complete with the
timing chain.
Inspection
7 Examine the teeth on the timing sprockets
for any signs of excessive wear or damage.
8 The timing chain should always be renewed
during a major engine overhaul. Slack links
and pins are indicative of a worn chain.
Unless the chain is known to be relatively
new, it should be renewed.
9 Examine the rubber cushion on the
tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or
deteriorated, it must be renewed.
Refitting
10 Commence reassembly by bolting the
timing chain tensioner into position. Check
that the face of the tensioner cam is parallel
with the face of the cylinder block, ideally
using a dial gauge. The maximum permissible
error between the two measuring points is
0.2 mm. Release and turn the timing chain
tensioner as required to achieve this (if
necessary). Refer to the Specifications for the
correct tightening torque.
11 Turn the crankshaft so that the timing
mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the
centre of the camshaft sprocket mounting
flange.
12 Engage the camshaft sprocket with the
timing chain, then engage the chain around
the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. Push the
camshaft sprocket onto its mounting flange,
and check that the sprocket retaining bolt
holes are in alignment (see illustration). Alsocheck that the timing marks of both sprockets
face each other. If required, turn the
camshaft/sprocket as required to achieve this.
It may also be necessary to remove the
camshaft from the chain in order to reposition
it in the required location in the chain to align
the timing marks. This is a “trial and error”
procedure, which must be continued until the
exact alignment of the bolt holes and the
timing marks is made
(see illustration).
13 Insert and tighten the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench
setting. Bend up the tabs of the new lockplate
to secure (see illustration) .
14 Retract the timing chain tensioner cam,
and then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot
pin. Release the cam so that it bears on the
arm.
15 Refit the oil slinger to the front of the
crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side
faces the sprocket.
16 Refit the timing chain cover as described
in the previous Section.
11 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Refer Chapter 1 and drain the engine oil.
Refit the sump drain plug.
3 Undo the retaining nuts and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold flange.
Note that the flange gasket should be
renewed on reassembly. Allowing sufficient
clearance for sump removal, tie the exhaust
downpipe up with a suitable length of wire or
cord to prevent the system straining the
insulators. On catalytic converter-equipped
vehicles, avoid straining the oxygen sensor
wiring; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s
multi-plug.
4 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5A).
5 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the clutch housing cover plate and, where
fitted, the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from
inside the right-hand wheel arch.
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7
10.12a Fit the timing chain to the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets . . .
10.3 Chain tensioner arm removal from the pivot pin. Note tensioner retaining bolts (arrowed)10.2 Oil slinger removal from crankshaft
10.13 Bend locktabs against the camshaftretaining bolt heads to secure10.12b . . . and check that the timing
marks on the sprockets are in alignment
2A
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6Undo the eighteen bolts securing the sump
to the base of the engine crankcase, then
prise free and lower the sump. If the sump is
stuck tight to the engine, cut around the
flange gasket with a sharp knife, then lightly
tap and prise it free. Keep the sump upright as
it is lowered, to prevent spillage of any
remaining oil in it. Also be prepared for oil
drips from the crankcase when the sump is
removed.
7 Remove any dirt and old gasket from the
contact faces of the sump and crankcase, and
wash the sump out thoroughly before refitting.
Check that the mating faces of the sump are
not distorted. Check that the oil pick-up
strainer is clear, cleaning it if necessary.
Refitting
8 Clean the gasket location faces. Apply a
dab of sealing compound to the mating faces
where the ends of each cork half-gasket are
to be fitted (see illustration) . Stick the new
cork gaskets into position on the block face,
using clean thick grease to retain them, then
locate the new rubber gaskets into their slots
in the timing chain cover and rear oil seal
carrier. The lugs of the cork gasket halves fit
under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets (see
illustration) .
9 Before offering up the sump, check that the
gap between the sump and the oil baffle is
between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration).Do not use a dented or damaged sump, as
the indicated dimension is important for
correct engine lubrication.
10
Fit the sump into position, and fit the
retaining bolts. Initially tighten them all finger-
tight, then further tighten them in the sequence
shown through Stages 1 and 2, to the torque
wrench settings specified (see illustration).
Note that different tightening sequences are
specified for the tightening stages. Final
(Stage 3) tightening is carried out after the
engine has been started and warmed up.
11 Refit the lower plate to the front face of
the clutch housing and refit the auxiliary
drivebelt lower cover.
12 Refit the starter motor.
13 Check that the downpipe and manifold
mating faces are clean, then locate a new
gasket and reconnect the exhaust downpipe
to the manifold. Where applicable, use new
self-locking nuts, and tighten securely.
14 Check that the sump drain plug is fitted
and tightened to the specified torque, then
lower the vehicle to the ground.
15 Refill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1.
16 Reconnect the battery, then start the
engine and run it up to its normal operating
temperature. Check that no oil leaks are
evident around the sump joint.
17 After the engine has warmed up for
approximately 15 minutes, switch it off.
Tighten the sump bolts to the Stage 3 torque
wrench setting given in the Specifications, in
the sequence shown in illustration 11.10.
12 Oil pump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 The oil pump is externally-mounted, on the
rear-facing side of the crankcase.
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge.
It should unscrew by hand, but will probably
be tight. Use a strap wrench to loosen it off, if
required. Catch any oil spillage in a suitable
container.
4 Undo the three retaining bolts and withdraw
the oil pump from the engine (see
illustration) .
5 Clean all traces of the old gasket from the
mating surfaces of the pump and engine.
Refitting
6 If the original oil pump has been dismantled
and reassembled and is to be re-used, or if a
new pump is to be fitted, it must first be
primed with engine oil prior to fitting. To do
this, turn its driveshaft and simultaneously
inject clean engine oil into it.
7 Locate a new gasket into position on the
pump mounting flange, then insert the pump,
engaging the drivegear as it is fitted (see
illustration) . Fit the retaining bolts, and
tighten to the specified torque wrench setting.
2A•8 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
12.7 Refitting the oil pump. Note the new gasket12.4 Unscrewing the oil pump retaining bolts
11.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
arrow indicates crankshaft pulley end of
engine
See Specifications for torque wrench settings
Stage 1 - Tighten in alphabetical order
Stage 2 - Tighten in numerical order
Stage 3 - Tighten in alphabetical order
11.9 Sump (A) and oil baffle (B) clearance details11.8b Lugs of cork gasket halves to fit
under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets11.8a Sump gasket fitting details at the
timing chain cover end (A) and the flywheel end (B)
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complete turn, and all the markings should
now align.
7With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the crankshaft pulley cover,
lower the vehicle and refit the upper timing
belt cover.
4 Cylinder head rocker cover -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
inlet components as necessary for access as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the rocker cover.
3 Remove the timing belt upper cover as
described in Section 7.
4 Referring to the relevant Part of Chapter 4
for details, disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage and from the adjuster
bracket above the rocker cover. Position the
cable out of the way.
5 Where applicable, disconnect the choke
cable from the carburettor, referring to
Chapter 4A for details.
6 Unscrew and remove the rocker cover
retaining bolts and washers, then lift the cover
from the cylinder head. Note that a new
rocker cover gasket will be needed on
refitting.
Refitting
7 Before refitting the rocker cover, clean the
mating surfaces of both the cylinder head and
the cover.
8 Locate the new gasket in position, then fit
the cover retaining bolts and washers. Ensure
that the grooves in the plate washers are
facing upwards as they are fitted (see
illustrations) . Tighten the cover retaining
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.
Refer to Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting
the accelerator cable, choke cable, air inlet
components and air cleaner (as applicable).
9 Refit the timing belt cover and reconnect
the battery earth lead.
5 Valve clearances -
general information
It is necessary for a clearance to exist
between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism, to allow for the
expansion of the various components as the
engine reaches normal operating
temperature. On most older engine designs, this meant
that the valve clearances (also known as
“tappet” clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were
allowed to be too slack, the engine would be
very noisy, its power output would suffer, and
its fuel consumption would increase. If the
clearances were allowed to be too tight, the
engine’s power output would be reduced, and
the valves and their seats could be severely
damaged. These engines employ hydraulic tappets
which use the lubricating system’s oil
pressure to automatically take up the
clearance between each camshaft lobe and
its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is
no need for regular checking and adjustment
of the valve clearances. However, it is
essential that only good-quality oil of the
recommended viscosity and specification is
used in the engine, and that this oil is always
changed at the recommended intervals. If this
advice is not followed, the oilways and
tappets may become clogged with particles of
dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil,
so that the system cannot work properly;
ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail,
and expensive repairs may be required. On starting the engine from cold, there will
be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets; the valve components, therefore,
may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so,
and then quieten. This is a normal state of
affairs, and is nothing to worry about,
provided that all tappets quieten quickly and
stay quiet. After the vehicle has been standing for
several days, the valve components may
“rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engine’s
top-end components and bearing surfaces.
While this is only to be expected, care must
be taken not to damage the engine under
these circumstances - avoid high-speed
running until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the noise ceases.
Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm
until the tappets are fully charged with oil and
the noise has ceased.
If the valve components are thought to be
noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top
end after the engine has warmed up to normal
operating temperature, take the vehicle to a
Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on
the mileage covered and the usage to which
each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may
be noisier than others; only a good mechanic
experienced in these engines can tell if the
noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage,
or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s
operation is faulty, it must be renewed
(Section 11).
6 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Unbolt and remove the cover from the
underside of the crankshaft pulley.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
5 If timing belt renewal is also intended, set
the engine at TDC as described in Section 3
before removing the crankshaft pulley and
retaining bolt.
6 To prevent the crankshaft from turning as
the pulley bolt is loosened off, remove the
starter motor as described in Chapter 5A, and
then lock the starter ring gear using a suitable
lever (see illustration) .
2B•4 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
6.6 Using a suitable bar to lock the
flywheel ring gear4.8b Rocker cover retaining bolts and plate washers4.8a Fitting a new gasket to the rocker cover
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23Refer to the procedure in Section 9 when
refitting the camshaft sprocket.
24 Refit and tension the timing belt as
described in Section 8.
25 Lubricate the hydraulic tappets with
hypoid oil before refitting them into their
original locations in the cylinder head.
26 Lubricate and refit the rocker arms and
guides in their original sequence, use new
nuts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting. It is essential, before each rocker arm
is installed and its nut tightened, that the
respective cam follower is positioned at its
lowest point (in contact with the cam base
circle). Turn the cam (using the crankshaft
pulley bolt) as necessary to achieve this.
27 Refit the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
28 Refit the remaining components with
reference to the relevant Sections in this
Chapter or elsewhere in the manual.
29 On completion, reconnect the battery
negative lead.
12 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel-injected engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4B or 4C.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system. 4
Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
5 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (refer to the relevant Part
of Chapter 4).
6 Loosen off the retaining clips and
disconnect the upper coolant hose, the
expansion tank hose and the heater hose
from the thermostat housing. Also disconnect
the heater hose from the inlet manifold.
7 On CFi models, disconnect the heated
coolant hose from the injector unit.
8 On EFi and SEFi models, disconnect the
following (see illustration) :
a) The MAP sensor vacuum hose from the inlet manifold upper section (EFi models).
b) The carbon canister solenoid valve
vacuum hose from the inlet manifold
upper section.
c) The oil trap vacuum hose at the “T” piece
connector.
d) The brake servo vacuum hose from the
inlet manifold upper section by pressing
in the clamp ring and simultaneously
pulling the hose free from the connection.
e) The coolant hose from the injector
intermediate flange and at the thermostat
housing.
9 Disconnect the following fuel supply/return
hoses. Plug the hoses and connections, to
prevent fuel spillage and the possible ingress
of dirt.
a) On carburettor models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the pump and the
return hose from the carburettor.
b) On CFi models, pull free and detach the
fuel return hose from the injection unit
and the supply hose at the connector. c) On EFi and SEFi models, detach the fuel
supply hose from the fuel rail or at the
quick-release coupling (where fitted).
Disconnect the return line from the fuel
pressure regulator or at the quick-release
coupling.
10 On CFi models, disconnect the brake
servo vacuum hose from the inlet manifold,
the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the
sensor, and the carbon canister connecting
hose at the injection unit (see illustration).
11 Noting their connections and routings,
disconnect the wiring connectors or multi-
plugs from the following items, where
applicable:
a) Temperature gauge sender unit.
b) DIS ignition coil.
c) Coolant temperature sensor.
d) Cooling fan thermostatic switch.
e) Carburettor.
f) Radio earth lead.
g) Road speed sensor.
h) Fuel injector wiring loom.
i) Intake air temperature sensor.
12 On CFi models, detach the throttle control
motor, throttle position sensor and injector
lead multi-plugs (see illustration) .
13 On models with a distributorless ignition
system, where still attached, disconnect the
HT leads from the DIS ignition coil and the
spark plugs. On models with a distributor
ignition system, remove the distributor as
described in Chapter 5B.
14 Position the engine with No 1 piston at
TDC on compression as described in Sec-
tion 3.
15 Loosen off the timing belt tensioner
retaining bolts, and move the tensioner to
release the tension from the drivebelt.
Support the belt, and move it clear of the
camshaft sprocket.
16 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
17 Unscrew the retaining nuts and detach
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Remove the gasket; note that a new one must
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•9
12.12 Wiring connections to be detached on the 1.4 litre CFi fuel injected engine
A Coolant temperature sensor
B Throttle plate control motor
C Throttle position sensor
D Injector
12.10 Vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (A)
and the brake servo unit (B) on the 1.4 litre
CFi fuel-injected engine
12.8 Vacuum hoses and throttle cableconnections on the 1.6 litre EFi fuel injected engine
A Hose to MAP sensor
B Crankcase ventilation breather hose
C Throttle cable and clip
D Oil trap hose and T-piece connector
E Hose to oil trap
F Hose to carbon canister solenoid valve
2B
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
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be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe up
to support it.
18Before it is released and removed, the
cylinder head must first have cooled down to
room temperature (about 20ºC).
19 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining bolts
progressively in the reverse order to that
shown for tightening (see illustration 12.28).
The cylinder head bolts must be discarded
and new bolts obtained for refitting the
cylinder head.
20 Remove the cylinder head complete with
its manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face.
21 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This must
always be renewed; it is essential that the
correct type is obtained. Save the old gasket, so
that the identification marks (teeth) can be used
when ordering the new one (see illustration).
Preparation for refitting
22The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
24
If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
25 Ensure that new cylinder head bolts are
used when refitting and clean out the bolt
holes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oil-
filled hole can (in extreme cases) cause the
block to fracture, due to the hydraulic
pressure.
Refitting
26 To prevent the possibility of the valves
and pistons coming into contact as the head
is fitted, turn the crankshaft over to position
No 1 piston approximately 20 mm below its
TDC position in the bore.
27 Locate the cylinder head gasket on the
top face of the cylinder block, locating it over
the dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted the
correct way up, as indicated by its “OBEN-
TOP” marking (see illustration) .
28 Lower the cylinder head into position,
ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels,
then insert the new retaining bolts. Hand-
tighten the bolts initially, then tighten them in
the order shown in the four stages to the
specified torque setting (see illustration).
Where possible, use an angular torque setting
gauge attachment tool for accurate tightening
of stages three and four. Alternatively, after
the first two stages, mark the bolt heads with
a dab of quick drying paint, so that the paint
spots all face the same direction. Now tighten
all the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3
setting, by tightening them through the
specified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all the
bolts through the Stage 4 angle.
29 The camshaft sprocket should be
positioned so that its TDC index mark pointer
is in alignment with the TDC index spot mark
on the front end face of the cylinder head (see
illustration 3.6b).
30 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring its
TDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)
indicator on the front face of the timing belt
cover, taking the shortest route (not vice-
versa) (see illustration 3.6a). 31
Refit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, and then tension the belt as
described in Section 8.
32 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components, and to
Chapter 5B for details on reconnecting the
ignition system components. Ensure that all
coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
33 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks” ). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter
1.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside
the right-hand wheel arch.
4 Where fitted, pull free the oxygen sensor
lead multi-plug, and disconnect it. If the
engine has been recently run, take particular
care against burning when working in the area
of the catalytic converter.
5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold. The
flange gasket must be renewed when
reconnecting. Where applicable, also detach
the downpipe at the rear of the catalytic
converter, and release it from the front
mounting.
6 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10. On all models, undo the nut and
2B•10 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
12.28 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence12.27 Fit the cylinder head gasket with the“OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .12.21 Cylinder head location dowels (A)and gasket identification teeth (B)
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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bolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket (where fitted) and ease it out of the
way.
7Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, and
remove the clutch cover plate from the front
face of the bellhousing (see illustration).
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts and remove them. Support and lower
the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil
remaining in it as it is removed. If the sump is
stuck to the base of the crankcase, prise it
free using a screwdriver, but take care not to
damage the sump flange face. If it is really
stuck in position, check first that all of the
bolts are removed, then cut around the sump
gasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing the
joint.
9 After the sump is removed, further oil will
almost certainly continue to drip down from
within the crankcase, some old newspapers
positioned underneath will soak up the
spillage whilst the sump is removed.
10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge,
using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner
solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and
sealer from the mating faces of the sump and
the crankcase.
Refitting
11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto
the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil
pump housing at the front on each side
(see
illustration) .
12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in
the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case.
As an aid to correct sump alignment when
refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the
cylinder block, in the positions circled in
illustration 13.14.
13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the
sump into position, ensuring that the raised
spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into
the available holes, and finger-tighten them
only at this stage. Now remove the studs and
fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.
14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,
numerical sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration) .
15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliary
drivebelt lower cover, the front suspension
crossmember, the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket, and the starter motor with reference
to the relevant Sections and Chapters of this
manual as applicable.
17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as
described in Chapter 4E.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill
the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
14 Oil pump -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher
(Sections 8 and 9), and the sump (Section 13).
4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and remove
the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from the
front face of the engine. Clean the oil pump
for inspection. Refer to Section 15 for the
inspection procedures. The oil seal in the oil
pump housing should always be renewed
(Section 16).
Refitting
6 Before refitting the oil pump and the
associated fittings, clean off the respective
mating faces. A new oil pump gasket must be
obtained, as well as the seals and gaskets for
the other associated components to be
refitted.
7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionary
measures must be taken to avoid the
possibility of damaging the new oil seal as it is
engaged over the shoulder and onto its journal
on the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff key
from the groove in the crankshaft, then cut a
thin plastic guide which will furl over and
protrude beyond the shoulder of the seal
journal on the crankshaft (see illus-
tration 14.9b) . This will allow the seal to ride
over the step, and avoid damaging the seal lip
as it is pushed into position on the crankshaft.
8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the old
pump is to be re-used after cleaning and
inspection, first prime the pump by squirting
clean engine oil into it, and simultaneously
rotating the drivegear a few times (see
illustration) .
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•11
13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence
A Crankshaft pulley end of engine
Circled numbers indicate locations of studs
for correct sump alignment (see text)13.11 Sealing compound application points prior to refitting the sump
A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing
B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier13.7 Removing the clutch cover plate
14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipe
2B
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5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the engine/
transmission.
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
7 Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from
the main loom (see illustration) . Unplug the
electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to
disconnect the coil and coolant temperature
gauge sender wiring (see illustration).
8 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end.
c) The braking system vacuum servo unit hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
9 Unbolt the engine earth lead from the
cylinder head lifting eye.
10 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and
tube, or swing them out of the way.
11 Unscrew the pulse-air filter housing
retaining bolt, then disconnect its vacuum
hose.
12 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).14
Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
15 Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 8 and 11); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
16 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 7.
17 Working in the reverseof the sequence
shown in illustration 12.28a, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so mustbe renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
18 Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face. Remove the
gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.
Preparation for refitting
19 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
20
Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
Refitting
22 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
23 Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from the front edge (see
illustration) .
24 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•11
12.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing12.7b Unplug connectors (arrowed) todisconnect ignition coil wiring12.7a Unplug engine wiring loom
connector alongside the inlet manifold
12.23 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth) “A” are at front and marking “B” is
upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket on dowels “C”
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su