key FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the
same techniques to ensure that all earth
points in the engine compartment provide
good electrical contact through clean, metal-
to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened. (In addition to the earth connection
at the engine lifting eye, and that from the
transmission to the body/battery, there are
others in various places, so check carefully).
8Refer to Section 21 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.
7 Valve clearance adjustment
2
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.
8 Manual transmission oil level check
1
1The manual transmission does not have a
dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
making sure that the vehicle is level. On the
lower front side of the transmission housing,
you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and
remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be
required (see illustration) .
2 With the plug removed, check the oil level.
To do this accurately, make up an oil level
check dipstick from a short length of welding
rod or similar material. Make a 90º bend in the
rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm
increments. The dipstick is then inserted
through the filler plug orifice so that the
unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice
threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil.
Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of
oil.
3 The oil level must be maintained between 0
and 5 mm below the lower edge of the
filler/level plug hole. Top up (if necessary),
using fresh transmission oil of the specified
type and using a syringe, or a plastic bottle
and tube. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug
to the specified torque on completion. 4
The need for regular topping-up can only
be due to a leak, which should be found and
rectified without delay.
5 Regular oil changing is not specified by the
manufacturer’s, but the oil can be drained, if
required, by removing the selector shaft cap
nut and locking assembly.
9 Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment
4
General
1Many of the engines fitted to Fiesta models
are equipped with fuel injection systems of
one sort or another which are entirely
controlled by the engine management system.
On most of these vehicles, it isn’t possible to
make any adjustments to the idle speed or the
mixture settings without specialist test
equipment of a type usually only found at a
Ford dealer or fuel injection specialist.
However, the very nature of these highly-
sophisticated systems means they don’t go
out of tune very often (if ever), so that it’s one
less maintenance operation to worry about.
2 On carburettor engines and 1.6 litre EFi fuel
injection engines, certain checks and
adjustments are necessary as part of the
service requirements, and these are described
below.
Idle speed and mixture check
and adjustment - carburettor
engines
Note: Later carburettors are fitted with
tamperproof mixture adjusting screws,
consisting of a hexagon-shaped socket with a
pin in the centre. Such screws require the use
of Ford service tool 23-032 to alter their
settings; if this tool (or a suitable equivalent) is
not available, the CO level will have to be
checked, and any necessary adjustment will
have to be made, by a Ford dealer.
3 Before carrying out the following checks
and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped
(Section 21). To carry out the checks/adjustments, an accurate tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will
be required.
4
Make sure that all electrical components
are switched off during the following
procedures.
5 Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with its manufacturer’s
instructions, and insert the probe of an
exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) into the
exhaust tailpipe. As previously mentioned,
these items are essential in obtaining an
accurate setting. If they are not available, an
approximate check/adjustment can be made
as a temporary measure, providing they are
further checked out as soon as is possible
using a tachometer and a CO meter (or by a
Ford dealer).
6 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it
reaches its normal operating temperature and
the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the
engine off, then disconnect the radiator
cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch
connector. Now connect a temporary wire to
the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see
illustration) to enable the fan to operate
continuously during the following checks and
adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to
keep clear of the fan during the following
operations when working in the engine
compartment.
7 Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker
vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify
the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4A.
8 Check that the vehicle lighting and other
electrical loadings (apart from the radiator
cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the
engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm
for 30 seconds, and repeat this at three-minute
intervals during the check/adjustment
procedures. This will ensure that any excess
fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold.
9 Ensure that the throttle is fully released, allow
the meters to stabilise for a period of 5 to
30 seconds is normally sufficient, then check
the idle speed against that specified. If adjust-
ment is necessary, turn the idle speed
adjusting screw until the engine is idling at the
specified speed (see illustrations) . Any checks
and adjustments must be completed within
30 seconds of the meters stabilising.
1•14Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
9.9a Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and
mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLM
carburettor)9.6 Cooling fan thermostatic switch multi-plug with temporary bridging wire
connected8.1 Manual transmission oil level/filler
plug (A), and selector shaft cap nut (B)
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point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration) . Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication
of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.
13 Underbody and fuel/brake line check
1
1With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
14 Brake check
2
Note:
For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed.
b) The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.
c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.
2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the linings, as
follows.
Front brakes
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit,
all fourpads
must be renewed as a set.
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that they
still have service life remaining. If any disc is
thinner than the specified minimum thickness,
renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case,
check the general condition of the discs. Look
for excessive scoring and discolouration
caused by overheating. If these conditions
exist, remove the relevant disc and have it
resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering
the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer
to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible
hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where
they are subjected to most movement. Bend
them between the fingers (but do not actually
bend them double, or the casing may be
damaged) and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.
Rear brakes
11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings
of the leading brake shoes. Check that the
thickness of the lining material on the brake
shoes is not less than the recommendation
given in the Specifications.
14 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you
are at all concerned about the condition of the
shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more
comprehensive inspection (refer to Chap-
ter 9).
15 With the drum removed, check the shoe
return and hold-down springs for correct
installation, and check the wheel cylinders for
leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction
surface of the brake drums for scoring and
discoloration. If excessive, the drum should
be resurfaced or renewed.
16 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake also requires periodic adjustment,
and if its travel seems excessive, refer to
Section 27.
15 Roadwheel nut tightness check
1
1Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat
end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit
(on some models it will be necessary to
unscrew the retaining bolts with a special
key).
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•17
12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system
rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converterare more heat-resistant than the others
1
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of the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the
belt vertically upright on its right-hand run.
Keep it taut, and engage it with the teeth of
the camshaft sprocket. If the original belt is
being refitted, check that the belt’s direction
of travel is correct, and realign the belt-to-
sprocket marks made during removal, to
ensure that the exact original engagement
positions are retained. When the belt is fully
fitted on the sprockets, check that the
sprocket positions have not altered.
9Carefully manoeuvre the belt around the
tensioner, and engage its teeth with the water
pump sprocket, again ensuring that the TDC
positions of the crankshaft and camshaft
are not disturbed as the belt is finally
located.
10 Refit the lower timing belt cover, and
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque setting. Refit the crankshaft pulley, and
tighten its retaining bolt to the specified
torque setting.
11 To take up belt slack, loosen off the
tensioner and move it towards the front of the
car to apply an initial tension to the belt.
Secure the tensioner in this position, then
remove the flywheel ring gear locking device.
12 Rotate the crankshaft through two full
revolutions in (the normal direction of travel),
returning to the TDC position (camshaft
sprocket-to-cylinder head). Check that the
crankshaft pulley notch is aligned with the
TDC (0) mark on the lower half of the timing
belt cover.
13 Grasp the belt between the thumb and
forefinger, at the midway point between the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets on the
right-hand side. If the belt tension is correct, it
should just be possible to twist the belt
through 90º at this point (see illustration). To
adjust the belt, loosen off the tensioner
retaining bolts, move the tensioner as
required using a suitable screwdriver as a
lever, then retighten the retaining bolts. Rotate
the crankshaft to settle the belt, then
recheck the tension. It may take two or three
attempts to get the tension correct. On
completion, tighten the tensioner bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
14 It should be noted that this setting is
approximate, and the belt tension should be
rechecked by a Ford dealer with the special tensioner-setting tool at the earliest
opportunity.
15
Refit the starter motor (refer to Chap-
ter 5A).
16 Refit the rocker cover (see Section 4) and
the upper timing belt cover (see Section 7).
17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt, adjust its
tension as described in Chapter 1, then refit
the crankshaft pulley lower cover.
18 On completion, reconnect the battery
earth lead.
9 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Tensioner
1 Set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston on
compression as described in Section 3, then
refer to Section 7 and remove the timing belt
upper cover.
2 Loosen off the two bolts securing the timing
belt tensioner. Using a large screwdriver, prise
the tensioner to one side to release the timing
belt tension.
3 Remove the two tensioner bolts, and
withdraw the tensioner from behind the timing
belt.
4 Check the condition of the tensioner,
ensuring that it rotates smoothly on its
bearings, with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play. Renew the tensioner if in
doubt about its condition.
5 To refit the tensioner, first check that the
engine is still positioned at TDC for No 1
piston on compression, with both the
camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing
marks correctly aligned as described in
Section 3.
6 Refit the tensioner, guiding it in position
around the timing belt, and secure with the
two bolts. Move the tensioner towards the
front of the car, to apply an initial tension to
the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position.
7 Adjust the timing belt tension as described
in Section 8, paragraphs 12 to 14.
8 Refit the timing belt upper cover on
completion.
Camshaft sprocket
9 Set the engine at TDC for No 1 piston on
compression as described in Section 3, then
refer to Section 7 and remove the timing belt
upper cover.
10 Loosen off the two bolts securing the
timing belt tensioner. Using a large
screwdriver, prise the tensioner to one side to
release the timing belt tension. Slip the timing
belt off the camshaft sprocket.
11 Pass a bar through one of the holes in the
camshaft sprocket to prevent the camshaft
from rotating, then unscrew and remove the
sprocket retaining bolt. Note that this bolt
must be renewed when refitting the camshaft
sprocket. Remove the sprocket, noting the
Woodruff key fitted to the camshaft; if the key
is loose, remove it for safekeeping.
12 Check the condition of the sprocket,
inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth.
13 Install the Woodruff key, then fit the
camshaft sprocket with a newretaining bolt.
The threads of the bolt should be smeared
with thread-locking compound prior to fitting.
Tighten the retaining bolt to the specified
torque wrench setting (see illustrations).
14 Check that the engine is still positioned at
TDC for No 1 piston on compression, with
both the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket
timing marks correctly aligned as described in
Section 3.
15 Slip the timing belt over the camshaft
sprocket, then move the tensioner towards
the front of the car to apply an initial tension to
the belt. Secure the tensioner in this position.
16 Adjust the timing belt tension as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 12 to 14.
17 Refit the timing belt upper cover on
completion.
Crankshaft sprocket
18 Remove the timing belt as described in
Section 8.
19 The crankshaft sprocket can now be
withdrawn. If it is a tight fit on the crankshaft,
a puller or two large screwdrivers can be used
to release its grip. Withdraw the thrustwasher
and the Woodruff key from the crankshaft.
20 Check the condition of the sprocket,
2B•6 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
9.13b . . . and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque whilst retaining the
sprocket as shown9.13a Refit the camshaft sprocket . . .
8.13 Checking the tension of the timing belt
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inspecting carefully for any wear grooves,
pitting or scoring around the teeth.
21Refit the thrustwasher with its curved side
facing outwards, followed by the Woodruff
key.
22 Lubricate the oil seal and the crankshaft
sprocket with engine oil, then position the
sprocket on the crankshaft with its thrust face
facing outwards.
23 Using the auxiliary drivebelt pulley and its
retaining bolt, draw the sprocket fully into
position on the crankshaft. Remove the
pulley.
24 Refit the timing belt as described in
Section 8.
10 Camshaft oil seal - renewal
3
1Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in the previous Section.
2 The oil seal is now accessible for removal.
Note its direction of fitting, then using a
suitable screwdriver or a tool with a hooked
end to lever and extract the seal from its
housing (but take care not to damage the
housing with the tool) (see illustration).
3 Check that the housing is clean before
fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the
seal and the running faces of the camshaft
with clean engine oil. Carefully locate the seal
over the camshaft, and drive it squarely into
position using a suitable tube or a socket (see
illustration) . An alternative method of fitting is to draw it squarely into position using the old
sprocket bolt and a suitable distance piece.
4
With the seal fully inserted in its housing,
refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
the previous Section.
11 Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Refer to the appropriate earlier Sections in
this Chapter, and remove the timing belt
upper cover and the rocker cover.
3 On carburettor models, refer to Chapter 4A
and remove the fuel pump. On models equipped with a distributor ignition system,
refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor.
On PTE engines, refer to Chapter 4D and
remove the camshaft position sensor.
4
On models equipped with distributorless
ignition system, detach, unbolt and remove
the ignition coil, its support bracket and the
interference capacitor from the end of the
cylinder head, as described in Chapter 5B.
5 Undo the retaining nuts and remove the
guides, rocker arms and spacer plates (see
illustrations) . Keep the respective
components in their original order of fitting by
marking them with a piece of numbered tape,
or by using a suitable sub-divided box.
6 Withdraw the hydraulic tappets, again
keeping them in their original fitted sequence.
The tappets should be placed in an oil bath
while removed (see illustrations) .
7 Unbolt and remove the lower cover beneath
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•7
11.5a Undo the rocker arm retaining nut . . .
10.3 Using a socket to tap the camshaft
oil seal into place
11.6b Store tappets in clearly-marked
container filled with oil to prevent oil loss11.6a Removing a hydraulic tappet
11.5c . . . followed by the rocker arm . . .11.5b . . . withdraw the guide . . .
11.5d . . . and spacer plate
10.2 Camshaft front oil seal removal
2B
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bolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket (where fitted) and ease it out of the
way.
7Remove the starter motor as described in
Chapter 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, and
remove the clutch cover plate from the front
face of the bellhousing (see illustration).
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts and remove them. Support and lower
the sump pan, taking care not to spill any oil
remaining in it as it is removed. If the sump is
stuck to the base of the crankcase, prise it
free using a screwdriver, but take care not to
damage the sump flange face. If it is really
stuck in position, check first that all of the
bolts are removed, then cut around the sump
gasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing the
joint.
9 After the sump is removed, further oil will
almost certainly continue to drip down from
within the crankcase, some old newspapers
positioned underneath will soak up the
spillage whilst the sump is removed.
10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge,
using paraffin or a suitable engine cleaner
solution. Clean any traces of old gasket and
sealer from the mating faces of the sump and
the crankcase.
Refitting
11 Smear a suitable sealing compound onto
the junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal carrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oil
pump housing at the front on each side
(see
illustration) .
12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove in
the rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case.
As an aid to correct sump alignment when
refitting it, screw ten M6 studs into the
cylinder block, in the positions circled in
illustration 13.14.
13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit the
sump into position, ensuring that the raised
spacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts into
the available holes, and finger-tighten them
only at this stage. Now remove the studs and
fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.
14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,
numerical sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting (see illustration) .
15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealing
washer, and tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliary
drivebelt lower cover, the front suspension
crossmember, the gearchange mechanism
stabiliser bar/exhaust forward mounting
bracket, and the starter motor with reference
to the relevant Sections and Chapters of this
manual as applicable.
17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe as
described in Chapter 4E.
18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fill
the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
14 Oil pump -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher
(Sections 8 and 9), and the sump (Section 13).
4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and remove
the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from the
front face of the engine. Clean the oil pump
for inspection. Refer to Section 15 for the
inspection procedures. The oil seal in the oil
pump housing should always be renewed
(Section 16).
Refitting
6 Before refitting the oil pump and the
associated fittings, clean off the respective
mating faces. A new oil pump gasket must be
obtained, as well as the seals and gaskets for
the other associated components to be
refitted.
7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionary
measures must be taken to avoid the
possibility of damaging the new oil seal as it is
engaged over the shoulder and onto its journal
on the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff key
from the groove in the crankshaft, then cut a
thin plastic guide which will furl over and
protrude beyond the shoulder of the seal
journal on the crankshaft (see illus-
tration 14.9b) . This will allow the seal to ride
over the step, and avoid damaging the seal lip
as it is pushed into position on the crankshaft.
8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the old
pump is to be re-used after cleaning and
inspection, first prime the pump by squirting
clean engine oil into it, and simultaneously
rotating the drivegear a few times (see
illustration) .
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•11
13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequence
A Crankshaft pulley end of engine
Circled numbers indicate locations of studs
for correct sump alignment (see text)13.11 Sealing compound application points prior to refitting the sump
A Crankcase-to-oil pump housing
B Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrier13.7 Removing the clutch cover plate
14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipe
2B
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9Align the pump gear flats with those on the
crankshaft, then fit the oil pump. Check that
the sump mating faces of the oil pump and
the base of the crankcase are flush each side,
then tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting. Remove the
protective guide (see illustrations) .
10 Refit the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump,
using a new gasket and tighten to the
specified torque.
11 Slide the thrustwasher onto the front end
of the crankshaft, then insert the Woodruff key
into position in the groove in the crankshaft.
The key must be located with its flat edge
parallel with the line of the crankshaft, to
ensure that the crankshaft sprocket slides
fully into position as it is being refitted.
12 Refit the sump, crankshaft sprocket, the
timing belt, timing belt cover and drivebelt
pulley (as described in the appropriate earlier
Sections of this Chapter). Refit and adjust the
drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.
13 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery negative terminal.
15 Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
3
Dismantling
1 The oil pump fitted is a low-friction rotor-
type, driven from the front end of the
crankshaft. Where a high-mileage engine is being reconditioned, it is recommended that a
new oil pump is fitted.
2
To inspect the rotor assembly, first remove
the pump from the engine (Section 14), then
undo the retaining screws and remove the
cover plate (see illustration) . Remove the O-
ring seal.
Inspection
3 Clean the rotors and the inside of the pump
housing, then visually inspect the various
components for signs of excessive wear and
scoring. Check the pump components for
wear using feeler gauges in the same manner
as that described in Part A of this Chapter,
Section 13. Refer to the Specifications at the
start of this Chapter for specific details.
Reassembly
4 When reassembling the pump, ensure that
the inner (driving) and outer (driven) rotors are
located with the corresponding indented
matchmarks facing the same way (see
illustration) .
16Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
4
Front oil seal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),
the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timing
belt (Section 8) and crankshaft sprocket,
Woodruff key and thrustwasher (Section 9).
5 The oil seal is now accessible for removal
from the front face of the oil pump housing
(see illustration) . To withdraw the seal, a
hooked tool will be required; if available, use
Ford special tool No 21-096. Take care not to
damage the oil pump housing during removal.
As it is removed, note the fitted orientation of
the seal in its housing.
6 Clean the oil pump housing and the
crankshaft stub, then lubricate the lips of the
new seal and the crankshaft front stub with
clean engine oil.
7 The oil seal should be drawn into position
using the Ford special tool No 21-093A.
Failing this, use a tube of suitable diameter,
with the crankshaft pulley bolt and washers.
Do not hammer the seal into position. To
protect the seal lips as it is fitted onto the
crankshaft, cut a thin sheet of plastic to suit
and furl it round the front of the crankshaft,
over the journal shoulder.
8 When the seal is fully fitted, remove the
special tool (or fabricated tool) and withdraw
the plastic protector. Check that the
crankshaft is still at the TDC position and refit
the Woodruff key, thrustwasher and sprocket.
Refit and tension the timing belt, then refit the
timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley as
described in the appropriate Sections earlier
in this Chapter.
9 Refit and adjust the auxiliary drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
10 On completion, lower the vehicle and
reconnect the battery.
Rear oil seal
11 With the engine or transmission removed
from the vehicle for access, remove the clutch
as described in Chapter 6.
12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as
described in Section 18.
13 If available, use Ford tool No 21-151 or a
suitable clawed tool to extract the seal from
2B•12 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
16.5 Crankshaft front oil seal - seen from
below (arrowed)15.4 Inner and outer rotor matchmarks (arrowed)15.2 Oil pump cover plate retainingscrews (arrowed)
14.9b With the oil pump refitted, removethe protective guide (arrowed)14.9a Refit the oil pump
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clamp brackets and disconnect the pipe joint
union over the top of the cylinder head cover.
Place absorbent rags beneath the union as it
is disconnected to soak up escaping fluid and
plug the open unions to prevent dirt entry and
further fluid loss. Move the pipe(s) clear just
sufficiently to allow removal of the cylinder
head cover.
5Remove the timing belt upper cover (see
Section 7).
6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union (see
illustration) .
7 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugs
and withdraw them, unclipping the leads from
the cover.
8 Working progressively, unscrew the
cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the
spacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, then
withdraw the cover (see illustration).
9 Discard the cover gasket; this mustbe
renewed whenever it is disturbed. Check that
the sealing faces are undamaged, and that the
rubber seal at each retaining bolt is
serviceable; renew any worn or damaged
seals.
Refitting
10 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder
head gasket faces carefully, then fit a new
gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates
correctly in the cover grooves (see illustration).
11 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, then
insert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve at
each bolt location (see illustration). Start allbolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasket
remains seated in its groove.
12
Working in a diagonal sequence from the
centre outwards, and in two stages (see
Specifications), tighten the cover bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
13 Refit the HT leads, clipping them into
place so that they are correctly routed; each is
numbered, and can also be identified by the
numbering on its respective coil terminal.
14 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,
and refit the timing belt upper cover.
Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,
then refit the air inlet components (see
Chapter 4B).
15 On models with power steering,
reconnect the high pressure fluid pipe then
bleed the system as described in Chapter 10.
5 Valve clearances -
general information
Refer to Section 5 in Part B of this Chapter.
6 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - either
remove the drivebelt completely, or just secure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,
depending on the work to be carried out (see
Chapter 1).
2
If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the
timing marks align (see Section 3).
3 The crankshaft must now be locked to
prevent its rotation while the pulley bolt is
unscrewed. To do this, remove the starter
motor (Chapter 5A) and lock the starter ring
gear teeth using a suitable screwdriver.
4 It should now just be possible to reach
between the crankshaft pulley and the body
side member to undo and remove the pulley
bolt and withdraw the pulley. However, if
additional working clearance is needed,
proceed as follows.
5 If not already done, chock the rear wheels
then jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support” ). Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel.
6 Support the weight of the
engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with
a wooden spacer to prevent damage to the
sump.
7 From above, unscrew the three bolts
securing the engine’s front right-hand (Y-
shaped) mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket. Unfasten the engine’s rear
right-hand mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch
8 With the engine’s right-hand mountings
unfastened from the body, lower the
engine/transmission on the jack until a socket
spanner can be fitted to the crankshaft pulley
bolt.
9 With the starter ring gear teeth locked,
unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt and
withdraw the pulley (see illustration).
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway is
aligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, and
tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque
wrench setting. If the engine mountings were
disturbed, use the jack to adjust the height of
the engine/transmission until the bolts (and
nut, with washer) can be refitted and screwed
2C•4 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
6.9 Unscrew pulley bolt to release
crankshaft pulley4.11 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to eachcover bolt spacer, as shown
4.10 Ensure gasket is located correctly in cover groove4.8 Removing cylinder head cover
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4.6 Disconnecting crankcase breather
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it into the slot in the left-hand end of both
camshafts (see illustration) . The tool should
slip snugly into both slots while resting on the
cylinder head mating surface; if one camshaft
is only slightly out of alignment, it is
permissible to use an open-ended spanner to
rotate the camshaft gently and carefully until
the tool will fit.
9 If both camshaft slots (they are machined
significantly off-centre) are below the level of
the cylinder head mating surface, rotate the
crankshaft through one full turn clockwise and
fit the tool again; it should now fit as
described in the previous paragraph.
10 With the camshaft aligning tool remaining
in place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do not
use the locked camshafts to prevent the
crankshaft from rotating - use only the locking
method described in Section 6.
11 Remove the timing belt lower and middle
covers (see Section 7).
12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still in
place, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use an
Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the
tensioner clockwise as far as possible away
from the belt; retighten the bolt to secure the
tensioner clear of the timing belt (see
illustration) .
13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use
white paint or similar to mark its direction of
rotation, and note from the manufacturer’s
markings which way round it is fitted.
Withdraw the belt. Do notrotate the
crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 14
If the belt is being removed for reasons
other than routine renewal, check it carefully
for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks
(especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or
contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the
belt if there is the slightest doubt about its
condition. As a safety measure, the belt must
be renewed as a matter of course at the
intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is
unknown, the belt should be renewed
irrespective of its apparent condition
whenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly,
check the tensioner spring (where fitted),
renewing it if there is any doubt about its
condition. Check also the sprockets for signs
of wear or damage, and ensure that the
tensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothly
on their bearings; renew any worn or
damaged components. If signs of oil or
coolant contamination are found, trace the
source of the leak and rectify it, then wash
down the engine timing belt area and related
components, to remove all traces of oil or
coolant.
Refitting and adjustment
15 On reassembly, temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley, to check that the crankshaft
is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston on
compression, then ensure that both
camshafts are aligned at TDC by the special
tool (paragraph 8). If the engine is being
reassembled after major dismantling, both
camshaft sprockets should be free to rotate on their respective camshafts; if the timing
belt alone is being renewed, both sprockets
should still be securely fastened.
16
A holding tool will be required to prevent
the camshaft sprockets from rotating while
their bolts are slackened and retightened;
either obtain Ford service tool 15-030A, or
fabricate a suitable substitute (see Tool Tip).
Note: Do not use the camshaft-aligning tool
(whether genuine Ford or not) to prevent
rotation while the camshaft sprocket bolts are
slackened or tightened; the risk of damage to
the camshaft concerned and to the cylinder
head is far too great. Use only a forked holding
tool applied directly to the sprockets, as
described.
17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screw
the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin
into the cylinder head, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Unbolt the
tensioner, hook the spring on to the pin and
the tensioner backplate, then refit the
tensioner, engaging its backplate on the
locating peg (see illustrations) .
18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if
necessary), and use an Allen key inserted into
its centre to rotate the tensioner as far as
possible against spring tension, then retighten
the bolt to secure the tensioner (see
illustration) .
2C•6Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
8.18 . . . then use Allen key to position
tensioner so that timing belt can be
refitted8.17b Hook spring onto tensioner and refitas shown - engage tensioner backplate on
locating peg (arrowed) . . .8.17a Fitting tensioner spring retaining pin
8.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and use Allenkey to rotate tensioner away from timing belt8.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensure
engine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders at TDC
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
To make a camshaft
sprocket holding tool, obtain
two lengths of steel strip
about 6 mm thick by 30 mm
wide or similar, one 600 mm long, the
other 200 mm long (all dimensions
approximate). Bolt the two strips
together to form a forked end, leaving
the bolt slack so that the shorter strip
can pivot freely. At the end of each
“prong” of the fork, bend the strips
through 90º about 50 mm from their
ends to act as the fulcrums; these will
engage with the holes in the
sprockets. It may be necessary to
grind or cut off their sides slightly to
allow them to fit the sprocket holes
(see illustration 8.23).
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19Fit the timing belt; if the original is being
refitted, ensure that the marks and notes
made on removal are followed, so that the belt
is refitted the same way round, and to run in
the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft
sprocket, work anti-clockwise around the
camshaft sprockets and tensioner, finishing
off at the rear guide pulley. The front run,
between the crankshaft and the exhaust
camshaft sprockets, mustbe kept taut,
without altering the position either of the
crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary,
the position of the camshaft sprockets can be
altered by rotating each on its camshaft
(which remains fixed by the aligning tool).
Where the sprocket is still fastened, use the
holding tool described above to prevent the
sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt
is slackened - the sprocket can then be
rotated on the camshaft until the belt will slip
into place; retighten the sprocket bolt.
20 When the belt is in place, slacken the
tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the
tensioner against the belt; the tensioner
should be retained correctly against the timing
belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must
be just free to respond to changes in belt
tension (see illustration) .
21 Tighten both camshaft sprocket bolts (or
check that they are tight, as applicable) and
remove the camshaft-aligning tool.
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft through two full turns
clockwise to settle and tension the timing belt,
returning the crankshaft to the TDC position
described previously. Refit the camshaft-
aligning tool; it should slip into place as
described in paragraph 8. If all is well,
proceed to paragraph 24 below.
22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit
the forked holding tool to its sprocket, adjust
its position as required, and check that any
slack created has been taken up by the
tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two
further turns clockwise, and refit the
camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits
as it should. If all is well, proceed to
paragraph 24 below.
23 If either camshaft is significantly out of
line, use the holding tool to prevent its
sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened - the camshaft can then be
rotated (gently and carefully, using an open-
ended spanner) until the camshaft-aligning
tool will slip into place; take care not to
disturb the relationship of the sprocket to the
timing belt. Without disturbing the sprocket’s
new position on the camshaft, tighten the
sprocket bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting
(see illustration) . Remove the
camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft
through two further turns clockwise, and refit
the tool to check that it now fits as it should.
24 When the timing belt has been settled at
its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning
tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley
notches are exactly aligned, tighten the
tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting (see illustration) . Fitting the forked
holding tool to the spokes of each sprocket in
turn, check that the sprocket bolts are
tightened to their specified torque wrench
setting. Remove the camshaft-aligning tool,
rotate the crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final
check that it fits as it should.
25 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring
that all fasteners are tightened to the specified
torque.
9 Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Tensioner
Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the
first time since the vehicle left the factory, a
tensioner spring and retaining pin must be
obtained for fitting on reassembly.
1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner
once the timing belt upper and middle covers
only have been removed, the whole
procedure outlined below must be followed,
to ensure that the valve timing is correctly
reset once the belt’s tension has been
disturbed.
2 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted
(see illustration)
. Check the tensioner spring,
and renew it if there is any doubt about its
condition.
4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the
first time, screw the timing belt tensioner
spring retaining pin into the cylinder head,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the
tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner,
engaging its backplate on the locating peg.
5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to
rotate the tensioner as far as possible against
spring tension, then tighten the bolt to secure
the tensioner.
6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20
to 25 of Section 8.
Camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets
7 While it may be possible to remove any of
these sprockets once the relevant belt covers
have been removed, the complete timing belt
removal/refitting procedure (see Section 8)
must be followed, to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly reset once the belt’s
tension has been disturbed.
8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft
sprockets can be detached once their
retaining bolts have been unscrewed as
described in paragraph 16 of Section 8. The
crankshaft sprocket can be pulled off the end
of the crankshaft, once the crankshaft pulley
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•7
8.24 When setting is correct, tighten
tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench setting8.23 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened8.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial belt tension
9.3 Removing timing belt tensioner
2C
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and the timing belt have been removed. Note
the “FRONT” marking identifying the
sprocket’s outboard face, and the
thrustwasher behind it; note which way round
the thrustwasher is fitted (see illustration).
Note the sprocket-locating Woodruff key; if
this is loose, it should be removed for safe
storage with the sprocket.
9 Check the sprockets as described in
paragraph 14 of Section 8.
10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Timing belt guide pulleys
11 Remove the timing belt covers (see
Section 7).
12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check
their condition as described in paragraph 14
of Section 8.
13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal
4
Note:While it is possible to reach either oil
seal, once the respective sprocket has been
removed (see Section 9) to allow the seal to be
prised out, this procedure is not
recommended. Not only are the seals very
soft, making this difficult to do without risk of damage to the seal housing, but it would be
very difficult to ensure that the valve timing
and the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed,
are correctly reset. Owners are advised to
follow the whole procedure outlined below.
1
Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
Note: If the timing belt is found to be
contaminated by oil, remove it completely as
described, then renew the oil seal (see below).
Wash down the engine timing belt area and all
related components, to remove all traces of
oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.
2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the
sprocket, taking care not to twist it too
sharply; use the fingers only to handle the
belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the
timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and
secure it so that it is clear of the working area
and cannot slip off the remaining sprocket.
3 Unfasten the sprocket bolt and withdraw
the sprocket (see Section 9).
4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing
cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal.
Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt
(10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a
washer, to draw the seal into place when the
camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a
substitute can be made using a suitable
socket (see illustration) . Grease the seal lips
and periphery to ease installation, and draw the seal into place until it is flush with the
housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the
bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the
cap bolts as described in Section 11.
6
For most owners, the simplest answer will
be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it onto
the camshaft (until it is flush with the
housing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap,
using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as
described in Section 11 (see illustration).
Take care to ensure that the seal remains
absolutely square in its housing, and is not
distorted as the cap is tightened down.
7 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft,
tightening the retaining bolt loosely, then slip
the timing belt back onto the sprocket (refer to
paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section 8) and
tighten the bolt securely.
8 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20
to 25 of Section 8.
11 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting
4
Removal
1 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
2 Either remove the timing belt completely
(Section 8, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it off
the camshaft sprockets, taking care not to
twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to
handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure it
so that it is clear of the working area. Do not
rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is
refitted.
3 Unfasten the sprocket bolts as described in
Section 8, paragraph 16, and withdraw the
sprockets; while both are the same and could
be interchanged, it is good working practice
to mark them so that each is refitted only to its
original location (see illustration) .
4 Working in the sequence shown, slacken
progressively, by half a turn at a time, the
camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration).
Work only as described, to release gradually
2C•8 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
11.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening
sequence
Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showing
bearing cap numbers
11.3 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened10.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted
when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted
10.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt to install camshaft oil seal9.8 “FRONT” marking on outside face of
crankshaft toothed pulley - note which way round thrustwasher behind is fitted
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