set clock FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

V-belt and flat “polyvee” type
drivebelt with rack-and-pinion type
adjuster
12Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts
and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken
the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the
pinion nut as required to take up the tension
of the drivebelt. Hold it at the required setting,
and tighten the central bolt securely to lock
the adjuster arm and set the tension (see
illustrations) .
13 Tighten the alternator mounting and
adjusting arm bolts securely.
14 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
15 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with
tensioner pulley adjuster (HCS engine
power steering pump drivebelt)
16 Slacken the tensioner pulley centre bolt
then turn the adjuster bolt at the base of the
tensioner pulley bracket, as required, to take
up the tension of the drivebelt. When the belt
deflection is correct, tighten the adjuster
pulley centre retaining bolt.
17 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
18 Run the engine for about five minutes,
then recheck the tension.
Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with
automatic adjuster
19 As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt
is tensioned by an automatic tensioner;
regular checks are not required, and manual
“adjustment” is not possible.
20 If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping
and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is
otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do
this, remove the drivebelt as described below,
then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On
fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is
aligned correctly on its mountings, and
tightened to the specified torque wrench
setting.
Renewal
21 Open the bonnet. Jack up the front right-
hand side of the vehicle, and support it
securely on an axle stand. Remove the
roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt
lower cover (where fitted) from inside the
wheel arch.
22 The routing of the drivebelt around the
pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type,
and on whether power steering is fitted.
Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea
to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this
will save a lot of frustration when it comes to
refitting. Note that on HCS engines with
power steering, to renew the alternator/
water pump drivebelt it will be necessary to
remove the power steering pump drivebelt
first.
23 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way round.
24 To renew a drivebelt with manual
adjustment, slacken the belt tension fully as
described above, according to type. Slip the
belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt,
ensuring that it is routed correctly. If fitting a
flat “polyvee” type drivebelt, arrange it on the
grooved pulleys so that it is centred in
their grooves, and not overlapping their raised
sides. With the belt in position, adjust the
tension as previously described.
25 To renew the flat, “polyvee” type drivebelt
with automatic adjuster, reach up between
the body and the engine (above the
crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the
hexagon in the centre of the automatic
tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley
clockwise to release its pressure on the
drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the
crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner
again (see illustration) . Note that on certain
models, a self-cocking tensioner is fitted, and
that this will remain in the released position.
Working from the wheel arch or engine
compartment as necessary, and noting its
routing, slip the drivebelt off the remaining
pulleys and withdraw it.
26 Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their
grooves are clean, and removing all traces of oil and grease. Check that the tensioner
works properly, with strong spring pressure
being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise,
and a smooth return to the limit of its travel
when released.
27
If the original drivebelt is being refitted,
use the marks or notes made on removal, to
ensure that it is installed to run in the same
direction as it was previously. To fit the
drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so
that it is centred in their grooves, and not
overlapping their raised sides, and is routed
correctly. Start at the top, and work down to
finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the
tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt
onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the
tensioner again.
28 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that
the drivebelt is properly installed.
29 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where
applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground.
5 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition
1
General
1High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emissions systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for
cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and
leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-
diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that is cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
1•12Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
4.25 Automatic drivebelt tensioner - “polyvee” type drivebelt
Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension4.12b When the tension is correct, hold
the adjuster nut, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm4.12a Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster
A Adjuster arm
B Pinion (adjuster) nut
C Central (locking) bolt
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fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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it into the slot in the left-hand end of both
camshafts (see illustration) . The tool should
slip snugly into both slots while resting on the
cylinder head mating surface; if one camshaft
is only slightly out of alignment, it is
permissible to use an open-ended spanner to
rotate the camshaft gently and carefully until
the tool will fit.
9 If both camshaft slots (they are machined
significantly off-centre) are below the level of
the cylinder head mating surface, rotate the
crankshaft through one full turn clockwise and
fit the tool again; it should now fit as
described in the previous paragraph.
10 With the camshaft aligning tool remaining
in place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do not
use the locked camshafts to prevent the
crankshaft from rotating - use only the locking
method described in Section 6.
11 Remove the timing belt lower and middle
covers (see Section 7).
12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still in
place, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use an
Allen key inserted into its centre to rotate the
tensioner clockwise as far as possible away
from the belt; retighten the bolt to secure the
tensioner clear of the timing belt (see
illustration) .
13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use
white paint or similar to mark its direction of
rotation, and note from the manufacturer’s
markings which way round it is fitted.
Withdraw the belt. Do notrotate the
crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 14
If the belt is being removed for reasons
other than routine renewal, check it carefully
for any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks
(especially at the roots of the belt teeth) or
contamination with oil or coolant. Renew the
belt if there is the slightest doubt about its
condition. As a safety measure, the belt must
be renewed as a matter of course at the
intervals given in Chapter 1; if its history is
unknown, the belt should be renewed
irrespective of its apparent condition
whenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly,
check the tensioner spring (where fitted),
renewing it if there is any doubt about its
condition. Check also the sprockets for signs
of wear or damage, and ensure that the
tensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothly
on their bearings; renew any worn or
damaged components. If signs of oil or
coolant contamination are found, trace the
source of the leak and rectify it, then wash
down the engine timing belt area and related
components, to remove all traces of oil or
coolant.
Refitting and adjustment
15 On reassembly, temporarily refit the
crankshaft pulley, to check that the crankshaft
is still positioned at TDC for No 1 piston on
compression, then ensure that both
camshafts are aligned at TDC by the special
tool (paragraph 8). If the engine is being
reassembled after major dismantling, both
camshaft sprockets should be free to rotate on their respective camshafts; if the timing
belt alone is being renewed, both sprockets
should still be securely fastened.
16
A holding tool will be required to prevent
the camshaft sprockets from rotating while
their bolts are slackened and retightened;
either obtain Ford service tool 15-030A, or
fabricate a suitable substitute (see Tool Tip).
Note: Do not use the camshaft-aligning tool
(whether genuine Ford or not) to prevent
rotation while the camshaft sprocket bolts are
slackened or tightened; the risk of damage to
the camshaft concerned and to the cylinder
head is far too great. Use only a forked holding
tool applied directly to the sprockets, as
described.
17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screw
the timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin
into the cylinder head, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Unbolt the
tensioner, hook the spring on to the pin and
the tensioner backplate, then refit the
tensioner, engaging its backplate on the
locating peg (see illustrations) .
18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if
necessary), and use an Allen key inserted into
its centre to rotate the tensioner as far as
possible against spring tension, then retighten
the bolt to secure the tensioner (see
illustration) .
2C•6Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
8.18 . . . then use Allen key to position
tensioner so that timing belt can be
refitted8.17b Hook spring onto tensioner and refitas shown - engage tensioner backplate on
locating peg (arrowed) . . .8.17a Fitting tensioner spring retaining pin
8.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and use Allenkey to rotate tensioner away from timing belt8.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensure
engine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders at TDC
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
To make a camshaft
sprocket holding tool, obtain
two lengths of steel strip
about 6 mm thick by 30 mm
wide or similar, one 600 mm long, the
other 200 mm long (all dimensions
approximate). Bolt the two strips
together to form a forked end, leaving
the bolt slack so that the shorter strip
can pivot freely. At the end of each
“prong” of the fork, bend the strips
through 90º about 50 mm from their
ends to act as the fulcrums; these will
engage with the holes in the
sprockets. It may be necessary to
grind or cut off their sides slightly to
allow them to fit the sprocket holes
(see illustration 8.23).
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19Fit the timing belt; if the original is being
refitted, ensure that the marks and notes
made on removal are followed, so that the belt
is refitted the same way round, and to run in
the same direction. Starting at the crankshaft
sprocket, work anti-clockwise around the
camshaft sprockets and tensioner, finishing
off at the rear guide pulley. The front run,
between the crankshaft and the exhaust
camshaft sprockets, mustbe kept taut,
without altering the position either of the
crankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary,
the position of the camshaft sprockets can be
altered by rotating each on its camshaft
(which remains fixed by the aligning tool).
Where the sprocket is still fastened, use the
holding tool described above to prevent the
sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt
is slackened - the sprocket can then be
rotated on the camshaft until the belt will slip
into place; retighten the sprocket bolt.
20 When the belt is in place, slacken the
tensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls the
tensioner against the belt; the tensioner
should be retained correctly against the timing
belt inner shield and cylinder head, but must
be just free to respond to changes in belt
tension (see illustration) .
21 Tighten both camshaft sprocket bolts (or
check that they are tight, as applicable) and
remove the camshaft-aligning tool.
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft through two full turns
clockwise to settle and tension the timing belt,
returning the crankshaft to the TDC position
described previously. Refit the camshaft-
aligning tool; it should slip into place as
described in paragraph 8. If all is well,
proceed to paragraph 24 below.
22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fit
the forked holding tool to its sprocket, adjust
its position as required, and check that any
slack created has been taken up by the
tensioner; rotate the crankshaft through two
further turns clockwise, and refit the
camshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fits
as it should. If all is well, proceed to
paragraph 24 below.
23 If either camshaft is significantly out of
line, use the holding tool to prevent its
sprocket from rotating while its retaining bolt is slackened - the camshaft can then be
rotated (gently and carefully, using an open-
ended spanner) until the camshaft-aligning
tool will slip into place; take care not to
disturb the relationship of the sprocket to the
timing belt. Without disturbing the sprocket’s
new position on the camshaft, tighten the
sprocket bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting
(see illustration) . Remove the
camshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaft
through two further turns clockwise, and refit
the tool to check that it now fits as it should.
24 When the timing belt has been settled at
its correct tension, and the camshaft-aligning
tool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulley
notches are exactly aligned, tighten the
tensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench
setting (see illustration) . Fitting the forked
holding tool to the spokes of each sprocket in
turn, check that the sprocket bolts are
tightened to their specified torque wrench
setting. Remove the camshaft-aligning tool,
rotate the crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise, and refit the tool to make a final
check that it fits as it should.
25 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure is the reverse of removal, ensuring
that all fasteners are tightened to the specified
torque.
9 Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Tensioner
Note: If the tensioner is being removed for the
first time since the vehicle left the factory, a
tensioner spring and retaining pin must be
obtained for fitting on reassembly.
1 While it is possible to reach the tensioner
once the timing belt upper and middle covers
only have been removed, the whole
procedure outlined below must be followed,
to ensure that the valve timing is correctly
reset once the belt’s tension has been
disturbed.
2 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdraw the tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted
(see illustration)
. Check the tensioner spring,
and renew it if there is any doubt about its
condition.
4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for the
first time, screw the timing belt tensioner
spring retaining pin into the cylinder head,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Hook the spring onto the pin and the
tensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner,
engaging its backplate on the locating peg.
5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre to
rotate the tensioner as far as possible against
spring tension, then tighten the bolt to secure
the tensioner.
6 Reassemble, checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, as described in paragraphs 20
to 25 of Section 8.
Camshaft and crankshaft
sprockets
7 While it may be possible to remove any of
these sprockets once the relevant belt covers
have been removed, the complete timing belt
removal/refitting procedure (see Section 8)
must be followed, to ensure that the valve
timing is correctly reset once the belt’s
tension has been disturbed.
8 With the timing belt removed, the camshaft
sprockets can be detached once their
retaining bolts have been unscrewed as
described in paragraph 16 of Section 8. The
crankshaft sprocket can be pulled off the end
of the crankshaft, once the crankshaft pulley
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•7
8.24 When setting is correct, tighten
tensioner bolt to specified torque wrench setting8.23 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened8.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initial belt tension
9.3 Removing timing belt tensioner
2C
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25As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where the
locating dowels are fitted); ensure that
approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes
above the gasket.
26 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used)
when the head is in place.
27 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry ( do not
oil their threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
28 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,
then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts
in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note: Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must notbe re-
torqued.
29 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and sprockets
(see Sections 11, 10 and 9, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the TDC position described
in Section 3.
30 Refit the earth lead to the lifting eye
31 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 8.
32 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified.
b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”).
c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.
d) If the power steering hoses where
disconnected, bleed the system as
described in Chapter 10 after
reconnection.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
Note: The full procedure outlined below must
be followed, so that the mating surfaces can
be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-
tight joint on reassembly, and so that the
sump can be aligned correctly; depending on
your skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket
must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove and
discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed
with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the starter
motor.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor.
6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4E for details). 7
Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate.
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with
the palm of the hand, then lower the sump
and withdraw it with the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the
presence of any shims between the sump and
transmission.
9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this
must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
10 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Sec-
tion 14).Refitting
11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
12 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
a) Check that the mating surfaces of the sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
2C•12 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
13.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove
12.28c . . . and to Stage 3 using angle gauge12.28b Tightening cylinder head bolts
(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .12.28a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Note: View from rear of vehicle
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6Unscrew the nut securing the cooling fan
shroud to the radiator, noting the insulating
washer arrangement, then lift the fan shroud
and motor assembly from the vehicle (see
illustration) .
7 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,
first remove its retaining clip and washer, then
withdraw the fan (see illustration) . A new clip
will be needed upon reassembly. Remove the
three nuts securing the motor to the shroud
and separate the two components.
Turbo models
8 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
9 Undo the two retaining screws and move
the HT lead bracket clear of the working area,
disconnecting the HT leads as required.
10 Disconnect the fan motor wiring multi-
plug and the two auxiliary lamp wiring multi-
plugs. Unclip the wiring from any local
retaining clips.
11 Remove the front bumper as described in
Chapter 11.
12 Undo the two lower fan shroud retaining
bolts, release the shroud upper locating
tongue from the radiator and withdraw the
assembly from the front of the car.
13 To separate the fan from the motor shaft,
pull off the fan guard from the shroud, flatten
back the raised lockwasher tab, and unscrew
clockwise (a left-hand thread is employed)
the nut securing the fan to the motor shaft.
Remove the fan then undo the three nuts
securing the motor to the shroud and
separate the two components.
Refitting
All models
14 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. On non-Turbo models, ensure that
the locating tags on the base of the shroud
locate correctly in their slots in the body
crossmember. On Turbo models, if the fan
was removed, use a new lockwasher when
refitting. On all models, ensure that the wiring
connections are cleanly and securely made,
and locate the loom in the retaining clips.
6 Cooling system electrical switches and sensors -
testing, removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1
of this Chapter before starting work.
Coolant temperature gauge
sender
Testing
1 If the coolant temperature gauge is
inoperative, check the fuses first (see Chap-
ter 12).
2 If the gauge indicates overheating at any
time, consult the “Fault finding” section at the
end of this manual, to assist in tracing
possible cooling system faults. 3
If the gauge indicates overheating shortly
after the engine is started from cold,
disconnect the temperature gauge sender’s
wiring multi-plug. The sender is located below
the thermostat housing on HCS engines,
adjacent to the thermostat housing on CVH
and PTE engines, and on the forward-facing
side of the thermostat housing on Zetec
engines. If the gauge reading now drops,
renew the sender. If the reading remains high,
the wire to the gauge may be shorted to earth,
or the gauge is faulty.
4 If the gauge fails to indicate after the engine
has been warmed up (approximately
10 minutes) and the fuses are known to be
sound, switch off the engine. Disconnect the
sender’s wiring multi-plug, and use a jumper
wire to ground the connector to a clean earth
point (bare metal) on the engine. Switch on
the ignition without starting the engine.
If the gauge now indicates Hot, renew the
sender.
5 If the gauge still does not work, the circuit
may be open, or the gauge may be faulty. See
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Removal
6 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and
remove the air cleaner or air inlet hoses,
according to engine type as necessary, to
gain access to the sender unit.
7 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
8 On Zetec engines, disconnect the
expansion tank coolant hose and the radiator
top hose from the thermostat housing’s water
outlet.
9 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sender unit.
10 Unscrew the sender and withdraw it.
Refitting
11Clean as thoroughly as possible the
sender unit location, then apply a light coat of
sealant to the sender’s threads. Screw in the
sender, tighten it to the specified torque, and
reconnect the wiring multi-plug.
12 Reconnect the hoses, and refit any
components disconnected for access. Refill
or top-up the cooling system (see “Weekly
Checks” or Chapter 1) and run the
engine. Check for leaks and proper gauge
operation.
Engine coolant temperature
sensor
Testing
13 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1).
14 Locate the coolant temperature sensor,
which will be found below the inlet manifold
on HCS engines, on the side or centre of the
inlet manifold on CVH and PTE engines, or on
top of the thermostat housing on Zetec
engines. Once located, refer to the relevant
Part of Chapter 4 and remove the air cleaner
or air inlet hoses, according to engine type as
necessary, to improve access to the sensor
unit.
15 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sensor.
16 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance between the sensor terminals.
Depending on the temperature of the sensor
tip, the resistance measured will vary, but
should be within the broad limits given in the
Specifications of this Chapter. If the sensor’s
temperature is varied - by removing it (see
below) and placing it in a freezer for a while, or
by warming it gently - its resistance should
alter accordingly.
17 If the results obtained show the sensor to
be faulty, renew it.
18 On completion, reconnect the wiring
multi-plug and refit any components removed
for access, then reconnect the battery.
Removal
19 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (see Chapter 5A, Section 1).
20 Locate the sensor as described
previously, and remove any components as
necessary for access.
21 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
22 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
sensor.
23 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it.
Refitting
24Clean as thoroughly as possible the
sensor location, then apply a light coat of
sealant to the sensor’s threads. Refit and
tighten the sensor to the specified torque
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
5.7 Nuts securing fan motor to shroud (A),
and shroud to body crossmember locating tags (B). Inset shows fan to motor shaft retaining clip (arrowed)5.6 Radiator cooling fan shroud securing nut (arrowed)
3
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as described in Section 16. The power valve
assembly can also be removed in a similar
fashion.
5Prise free the accelerator pump discharge
tube, but take care not to damage it or the
carburettor body.
6 Remove the jets and emulsion tubes as
required, making careful notes of their
respective locations for reassembly.
Cleaning and inspection
7 Soak out the fuel in the float chamber using
a clean rag; this must be safely disposed of.
Clean the float chamber, jets, drillings and
passages with clean petrol. The careful use of
an air line (or footpump) is ideal to blow out
the upper and lower bodies. Never use a
piece of wire for cleaning purposes.
8 Examine all of the carburettor components
for signs of damage or wear, paying particular
attention to the diaphragms, throttle spindle
and plates, and needle valve. Renew all
diaphragms, sealing washers and gaskets as
a matter of course.
Reassembly
9 Refit the emulsion tubes and jets to their
locations as noted during dismantling.
10 Refit the accelerator pump discharge
tube.
11 Refit the accelerator pump and power
valve assemblies as described in Section 16.
12 Refit the needle valve and the float, and
adjust the float setting as described in Sec-
tion 14.
13 Locate a new gasket onto the mating
face, then refit the carburettor upper body to
the main body. As they are reassembled, take
care not to snag the float on the carburettor
main body. Fit and tighten the retaining
screws to secure.
14 On completion, refit the carburettor as
described in Section 15.
18 Carburettor (Weber TLDM) -
description
The carburettor is of twin venturi,
downdraught type, featuring a fixed size main
jet system, adjustable idle system, a
mechanically-operated accelerator pump, and
a vacuum-operated power valve. A manually-
operated cold start choke is fitted, and a
throttle kicker is used on certain models.
In order to comply with emission control
regulations and maintain good fuel
consumption, the main jets are calibrated to
suit the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range. The power
valve is therefore only used to supply
additional fuel during full-throttle conditions. The accelerator pump is fitted to ensure a
smooth transmission from the idle circuit to
the main jet system. As the accelerator pedal
is depressed, a linkage moves the diaphragm
within the accelerator pump, and a small quantity of fuel is injected into the venturi, to
prevent a momentary weak mixture and
resultant engine hesitation.
The manually-operated choke features a
vacuum-operated pull-down mechanism
which controls the single choke plate under
certain vacuum conditions. On CTX automatic transmission models,
the throttle kicker acts as an idle speed
compensator for when the transmission shift
lever positions R, D or L are selected. The
throttle kicker is operated by vacuum supplied
from the inlet manifold. When the appropriate
transmission shift lever position is selected,
the throttle kicker control solenoid allows the
vacuum to pass to the throttle kicker which
maintains the idle speed by means of a
diaphragm and mechanical linkage. On manual transmission models, the
throttle kicker (when fitted) acts as a damper
by slowing down the closing action of the
throttle plate. Under deceleration, this
maintains the combustion of the air/fuel
mixture entering the cylinders, thus improving
the exhaust emission levels. A vacuum
sustain valve controls the carburettor-sourced
vacuum applied to the throttle kicker unit; this
allows the vacuum slowly to decay, allowing
normal engine idling speed to be achieved. An anti-dieseling (fuel cut-off) solenoid is
fitted to prevent the possibility of the engine
running on after the ignition is switched off. Idle speed and mixture adjustment
procedures are described in Chapter 1, but it
is important to note that accurate adjustments
can only be made using the necessary
equipment.
19 Carburettor (Weber TLDM) -
fast-idle speed adjustment
4
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the spark plug gaps
are set as specified, and that all electrical and
vacuum connections are secure. To carry out
checks and adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required.
1 Check the idle speed and mixture settings are as specified (as described in Chapter 1).
These must be correct before
checking/adjusting the fast-idle speed.
2
With the engine at its normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, switch the engine off, then
remove the air cleaner (if not already done) as
described in Section 2.
3 Actuate the choke by pulling the control
knob fully out, then start the engine and note
the engine fast-idle speed. Compare it with
the specified speed.
4 If adjustment is required, turn the fast-idle
adjusting screw clockwise to decrease, or
anti-clockwise to increase, the fast-idle speed
(see illustration) .
5 Recheck the fast-idle and basic idle
speeds.
6 On completion of the adjustment, stop the
engine, detach the tachometer and CO meter,
reconnect the radiator cooling fan lead, and
refit the air cleaner.
20 Needle valve and float (Weber
TLDM carburettor) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. New gaskets and a washer
(seal) will be required when reassembling. A
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will also be required to check the
idle speed and mixture settings on
completion.
Removal and refitting
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
3 Clean the exterior of the carburettor, then
disconnect the fuel supply hose and the anti-
dieseling solenoid wiring.
4 Disconnect the choke control cable.
5 Undo and remove the six retaining screws
(four of which are Torx type) and carefully lift
the carburettor upper body clear (see
illustrations) .
6 Invert and support the upper body of the
carburettor for access to the float and pivot.
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•9
19.4 Fast-idle speed adjusting screw (arrowed) (Weber TLDM carburettor)
4A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
20.5a Remove the carburettor upper body securing screws . . .
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7 Fuel pump/fuel pressure-
checking
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Fuel pump operation check
1 Switch on the ignition, and listen for the fuel
pump (the sound of an electric motor running,
audible from beneath the rear seats).
Assuming there is sufficient fuel in the tank,
the pump should start and run for
approximately one or two seconds, then stop,
each time the ignition is switched on. Note:If
the pump runs continuously all the time the
ignition is switched on, the electronic control
system is running in the backup (or “limp-
home”) mode referred to by Ford as “Limited
Operation Strategy” (LOS). This almost
certainly indicates a fault in the EEC IV module
itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system, using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time or risk
damaging the components by trying to test
the system without such facilities.
2 Listen for fuel return noises from the fuel
pressure regulator. It should be possible to
feel the fuel pulsing in the regulator and in the
feed hose from the fuel filter.
3 If the pump does not run at all, check the
fuse, relay and wiring (see Chapter 12). Check
also that the fuel cut-off switch has not been
activated and if so, reset it.
Fuel pressure check
4 A fuel pressure gauge will be required for
this check and should be connected in the
fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel rail,
in accordance with the gauge maker’s
instructions. On Zetec engines, a pressure
gauge equipped with an adapter to suit the
Schrader-type valve on the fuel rail pressure
test/release fitting (identifiable by its blue
plastic cap, and located on the union of the
fuel feed line and the fuel rail) will be required.
If the Ford special tool 29-033 is available, the
tool can be attached to the valve, and a
conventional-type pressure gauge attached to
the tool.
5 If using the service tool, ensure that its tap
is turned fully anti-clockwise, then attach it to
the valve. Connect the pressure gauge to the
service tool. If using a fuel pressure gauge
with its own adapter, connect it in accordance
with its maker’s instructions.
6 Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note
the gauge reading as soon as the pressure
stabilises, and compare it with the regulated
fuel pressure figures listed in the
Specifications .
a) If the pressure is high, check for a
restricted fuel return line. If the line is
clear, renew the fuel pressure regulator.
b) If the pressure is low, pinch the fuel return
line. If the pressure now goes up, renew the fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure
does not increase, check the fuel feed
line, the fuel pump and the fuel filter.
7 Detach the vacuum hose from the fuel
pressure regulator; the pressure shown on the
gauge should increase. Note the increase in
pressure, and compare it with that listed in the
Specifications . If the pressure increase is not
as specified, check the vacuum hose and
pressure regulator.
8 Reconnect the regulator vacuum hose, and
switch off the engine. Verify that the hold
pressure stays at the specified level for five
minutes after the engine is turned off.
9 Carefully disconnect the fuel pressure
gauge, depressurising the system first as
described in Section 2. Be sure to cover the
fitting with a rag before slackening it. Mop up
any spilt petrol.
10 Run the engine, and check that there are
no fuel leaks.
8 Fuel tank - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 8,
but before disconnecting the battery, relieve
the residual pressure in the fuel system (see
Section 2), and equalise tank pressure by
removing the fuel filler cap.
9 Fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit - removal and
refitting
3
Refer to Part B, Section 9.
10 Fuel tank ventilation tube -
removal and refitting
3
Refer to Part A, Section 10, but note that
the ventilation tube connects to the combined
roll-over/anti-trickle-fill valve assembly but,
instead of venting to atmosphere, a further
tube runs the length of the vehicle to the
evaporative emission control system carbon canister in the front right-hand corner of the
engine compartment.
Further information on the evaporative
emission control system is contained in Part E
of this Chapter.
11 Fuel tank filler pipe -
removal and refitting
3
Refer to Part A, Section 11.
12 Fuel cut-off switch -
removal and refitting
1
Refer to Part B, Section 12.
13 Fuel injection system -
checking
3
Refer to Part B, Section 13
14 Fuel injection system components - removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Throttle housing
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
described in Section 4.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage (see Section 5).
4 Disconnect the throttle position sensor
multi-plug.
5 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and detach the
accelerator cable support bracket at the
throttle housing (see illustration) .
6 Unscrew the throttle housing-to-manifold
retaining bolts (see illustration) , and unbolt
the throttle housing support bracket bolts
(where fitted). Remove the throttle housing
4D•4 Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines
14.6 Throttle housing retaining bolts
(arrowed)14.5 Unscrew the retaining bolts (arrowed),and detach the accelerator cable support
bracket
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8 Front suspension lower arm- removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Remove the one-piece undertray (where
fitted), by turning its bayonet-type fasteners.
3 If lower arm mounting brackets are to be
removed on XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in the
previous Section.
4 Unscrew and remove the lower arm
balljoint-to-spindle carrier pinch-bolt. Prise
the joint open using a large flat-bladed tool,
and detach the balljoint from the spindle
carrier. Take care not to damage the balljoint
seal during the separation procedures.
5 Where an anti-roll bar is fitted, undo the two
bolts and remove the clamp bracket.
6 To remove the lower arm from its mounting
bracket, undo the two bolts that pass through
the vertical bushes, remove the bolts and
pull the arm clear (see illustration). Note that
new bolts will be required for refitting.
7 The lower arm mounting brackets are each retained by five bolts. To remove a mounting
bracket, undo the five bolts and lower it from
the vehicle.
8
If the balljoint and/or the inboard mounting
bushes are found to be in poor condition, the
complete suspension arm must be renewed.
The suspension arm must also be renewed if
it has suffered structural damage.Refitting
9 Insert the lower arm into its mounting
bracket and fit the two bolts that pass through
the vertical bushes finger tight only at this
stage.
10 Fit the lower arm mounting bracket to the
vehicle, ensuring that the locating dowel is
correctly located in its recess. One of the five
bolts securing the mounting bracket has a
locating shoulder and a larger thread
diameter, and this should be fitted first to
ensure correct alignment of the mounting
bracket to the vehicle (see illustration). Refit
the other four bolts and tighten all five to the
specified torque.
11 Refit the anti-roll bar bracket and front
suspension crossmember, as applicable, in
accordance with the relevant Sections of this
Chapter.
12 Locate the lower suspension arm balljoint
into the spindle carrier assembly then fit and
tighten the pinch-bolt and nut to the specified
torque. Note that the bolt must locate to the annular groove on the balljoint spindle.
13
Refit the roadwheel, remove the axle
stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
14 Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque.
15 Tighten the lower arm-to-lower arm
mounting bracket bolts, that pass through the
vertical bushes, by the torque-to-yield method
as follows. Note that the weight of the vehicle
must be on the roadwheels for these
procedures and new bolts must be used.
Tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting
given in the Specifications, then back off to
zero torque (Stage 2). Retighten to the
Stage 3 torque setting, then tighten further
through the angle specified for Stage 4, using
an angle-tightening gauge. It is vitally
important that these procedures are followed
and that the bolts are not subjected to further
rotation which could result in them failing. The
torque-to-yield method must be followed
every time that these bolts are disturbed.
16 Raise the front of the vehicle again and
support it securely on axle stands to refit the
one-piece undertray (where applicable).
9 Rear hub bearings -
renewal
3
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate rear roadwheel.
2 Check that the handbrake is released, then
remove the rubber blanking plug from the
inside face of the brake backplate, reach
through with a suitable screwdriver, and
release the automatic brake adjuster by
levering the catch from the pawl.
3 Prise free the outer grease cap from the
centre of the hub (see illustration). The cap
will be deformed during its removal, and will
need to be renewed when the hub is refitted.
4 Unscrew and remove the hub nut, but note
that the hub nut threads are “handed”
according to side - right-hand to right, left-
hand to left (see illustration) . A left-hand
thread unscrews in a clockwisedirection.
5 Withdraw the brake drum/hub from the
spindle of the rear stub axle (see illustration).
10•8 Suspension and steering
9.5 Slide off the wheel hub/brake drum
unit9.4 Undoing the hub bearing retaining nut9.3 Removing the outer grease cap fromthe hub centre
8.10 Lower suspension arm and mountingbracket arrangement
A Arm-to-mounting bracket bolts
B Special “shouldered” locating bolt
C Mounting bracket retaining bolts
8.6 Lower suspension arm arrangement in its mounting bracket
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12
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Fuses - pre-1992 models
Main fuse board:
No Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected
1 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . Electronic engine control system
2 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Interior light, cigarette lighter, clock and radio memory
3 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system
4 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window element
5 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand side lights and rear fog light
7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand side lights
8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand dipped beam
9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand dipped beam
10 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand main beam and right-hand auxiliary driving light
11 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand main beam and left-hand auxiliary driving light
12 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heater fan motor and reversing light
13 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator cooling fan motor
14 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Front foglights (XR2i only)
15 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Horn
16 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Wiper motor and windscreen/tailgate washer pump
17 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Brake stop lights, instrument illumination and instrument warning
18 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electrically operated windows
19 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electric fuel pump
20 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor (vehicles with catalytic converter)
21 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand direction indicators
22 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand direction indicators
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Air bag (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Air bag (passenger’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . \
. . . . . . . 29
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Anti-theft systems - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Electric window regulator motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 20
Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses and relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight and auxiliary light beam alignment - checking and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 8
Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 10
“Lights-on” warning module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Screen washer fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Speaker balance control joystick - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate remote release motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Windscreen wiper pivot shaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 19
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
12•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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