tire size FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8059
Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:
M6 x 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
M10 x 11.5 - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 2317
1/4 PTF plug - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2418
Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4130
Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2D•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details
of removing the engine/transmission from the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
all other engine internal components.
The information given ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.
After Section 6, all instructions are based
on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the car. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the
removal and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as
applicable) and to Section 6. Ignore any
preliminary dismantling operations described
in Part A, B or C that are no longer relevant
once the engine has been removed from the
car.
2 Engine/transmission removal - preparation and
precautions
If you have decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the car, will be
needed. If a workshop or garage is not
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface is required. If possible, clear some shelving close to the
work area and use it to store the engine
components and ancillaries as they are
removed and dismantled. In this manner the
components stand a better chance of staying
clean and undamaged during the overhaul.
Laying out components in groups together
with their fixing bolts, screws etc will save
time and avoid confusion when the engine is
refitted. Clean the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure; this will help visibility and
help to keep tools clean. On three of the engines covered in this
manual (CVH, PTE, and Zetec), the unit can
only be withdrawn by removing it complete
with the transmission; the vehicle’s body must
be raised and supported securely, sufficiently
high that the engine/transmission can be
unbolted as a single unit and lowered to the
ground; the engine/transmission unit can then
be withdrawn from under the vehicle and
separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or
A- frame will be necessary. Make sure the
equipment is rated in excess of the combined
weight of the engine and transmission. The help of an assistant should be
available; there are certain instances when
one person cannot safely perform all of the
operations required to remove the engine
from the vehicle. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in this kind of operation. A second
person should always be in attendance to
offer help in an emergency. If this is the first
time you have removed an engine, advice and
aid from someone more experienced would
also be beneficial. Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, obtain (or arrange for the hire
of) all of the tools and equipment you will
need. Access to the following items will allow
the task of removing and refitting the
engine/transmission to be completed safely
and with relative ease: an engine hoist - rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine/transmission, a heavy-duty trolley
jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets
as described in “ Tools and working facilities ”
at the rear this manual, wooden blocks, and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. A
selection of different sized plastic storage bins
will also prove useful for keeping dismantled
components grouped together. If any of the
equipment must be hired, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand;
this may save you time and money. Plan on the vehicle being out of use for
quite a while, especially if you intend to carry
out an engine overhaul. Read through the
whole of this Section and work out a strategy based on your own experience and the tools,
time and workspace available to you. Some of
the overhaul processes may have to be
carried out by a Ford dealer or an engineering
works - these establishments often have busy
schedules, so it would be prudent to consult
them before removing or dismantling the
engine, to get an idea of the amount of time
required to carry out the work.
When removing the engine from the vehicle,
be methodical about the disconnection of
external components. Labelling cables and
hoses as they removed will greatly assist the
refitting process.
Always be extremely careful when lifting the
engine/transmission assembly from the
engine bay. Serious injury can result from
careless actions. If help is required, it is better
to wait until it is available rather than risk
personal injury and/or damage to components
by continuing alone. By planning ahead and
taking your time, a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully and
without incident.
3 Engine - removal and
refitting (HCS engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding
Section, before beginning this procedure. The
engine is removed separately from the
transmission and is lifted upwards and out of
the engine compartment.
Removal
1 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 4B and depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
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diameter from the bore measurement. If the
precision measuring tools shown are not
available, the condition of the pistons and
bores can be assessed, though not quite as
accurately, by using feeler gauges as follows.
Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to the
specified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip it
into the cylinder along with the matching
piston. The piston must be positioned exactly
as it normally would be. The feeler gauge
must be between the piston and cylinder on
one of the thrust faces (at right-angles to the
gudgeon pin bore). The piston should slip
through the cylinder (with the feeler gauge in
place) with moderate pressure; if it falls
through or slides through easily, the clearance
is excessive, and a new piston will be
required. If the piston binds at the lower end
of the cylinder, and is loose toward the top,
the cylinder is tapered. If tight spots are
encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is
rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is
out-of-round (oval).15 Repeat these procedures for the
remaining pistons and cylinder bores.
16 Compare the results with the
Specifications at the beginning of this
Chapter; if any measurement is beyond the
dimensions specified for that class (check the
piston crown marking to establish the class
of piston fitted), or if any bore measurement is
significantly different from the others
(indicating that the bore is tapered or oval),
the piston or bore is excessively-worn.
17 Worn pistons must be renewed; on some
engines, the pistons are available as Ford
replacement parts only as part of the
complete piston/connecting rod assembly.
See a Ford dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist for advice.
18 If any of the cylinder bores are badly
scuffed or scored, or if they are excessively-
worn, out-of-round or tapered, the usual
course of action would be to have the cylinder
block/crankcase rebored, and to fit new,
oversized, pistons on reassembly. See a Ford
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for
advice.
19 If the bores are in reasonably good
condition and not excessively-worn, then it
may only be necessary to renew the piston
rings.
20 If this is the case, the bores should be
honed, to allow the new rings to bed in
correctly and provide the best possible seal.
Honing is an operation that will be carried out
for you by an engine reconditioning specialist.
21 After all the machining operations have
been carried out, the entire block/crankcase
must be washed very thoroughly with warm
soapy water to remove all traces of abrasive
grit produced during the machining
operations. When completely clean, rinse it
thoroughly and dry it, then lightly oil all
exposed machined surfaces to prevent
rusting.
22 The cylinder block/crankcase should now
be completely clean and dry, with all components checked for wear or damage,
and repaired or overhauled as necessary.
Refit as many ancillary components as
possible, for safekeeping. If reassembly is not
to start immediately, cover the block with a
large plastic bag to keep it clean.
14 Main and big-end bearings
-
inspection
4
1 Even though the main and big-end bearing
shells should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old shells should be retained for
close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine (see illustration) .
2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled, to prevent it from happening
again.
3 When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase and
main bearing caps, and from the connecting
rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay
them out on a clean surface in the same
general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do nottouch any shell’s
bearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil, and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,
especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned using the proper cleaning methods.
Whatever the source, these foreign objects
often end up embedded in the soft bearing
material, and are easily recognised. Large
particles will not embed in the material, and
will score or gouge the shell and journal. The
best prevention for this cause of bearing
failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to
keep everything spotlessly-clean during
engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine
oil and filter changes are also recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of inter-related
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from
the bearing face) and oil leakage (from
excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump
or high engine speeds) all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
holes in a bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil, and destroy it. When lack of
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
shell’s steel backing. Temperatures may
increase to the point where the steel backing
turns blue from overheating.
6
Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the shells to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces, and tear away
from the steel backing.
7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of
bearings, because insufficient engine heat is
produced to drive off condensed water and
corrosive gases. These products collect in the
engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil
is carried to the engine bearings, the acid
attacks and corrodes the bearing material.
8 Incorrect shell refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing
running clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing, which lead to failure.
9 Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface
with your fingers during reassembly; there is a
risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.
15 Engine overhaul -
reassembly sequence
1 Before reassembly begins ensure that all
new parts have been obtained and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with
the work involved, and to ensure that all items
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•21
14.1 Typical bearing failures
2D
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careful not to scratch the bearing - use your
fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final crankshaft refitting
18Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the
shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform
layer of clean molybdenum disulphide- based
grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean
engine oil to each surface. Coat the
thrustwasher surfaces as well.
19 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals
with molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.
20 Make sure the crankshaft journals are
clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in
the block (see illustration) . Clean the bearing
surfaces of the shells in the caps, then
lubricate them. Install the caps in their
respective positions, with the arrows pointing
to the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
21 Working on one cap at a time, from the
centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring
that each cap is tightened down squarely and
evenly onto the block), tighten the main
bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting.
22 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times
by hand, to check for any obvious binding.
23 Check the crankshaft endfloat (see Sec-
tion 12). It should be correct if the crankshaft
thrust faces aren’t worn or damaged.
24 Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil seal
carrier, and install a new seal (see Part A, B
or C of this Chapter according to engine type).
18 Piston/connecting rod
assemblies - refitting and big-end
bearing running clearance check
4
Note: On HCS engines, new big-end bearing
cap retaining bolts will be required for
reassembly.
1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, the cylinder bores must be
perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder
must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must
be in place.
2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1
cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks
noted or made on removal). Remove the
original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing
recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a
clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept
spotlessly-clean!
Big-end bearing running
clearance check
3 Clean the back of the new upper bearing
shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the
other shell of the bearing set to the big-end
bearing cap. Make sure that the tab on each
shell fits into the notch in the rod or cap
recess (see illustration) .
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
face. Don’t lubricate the bearing at this
time.
4 It’s critically important that all mating
surfaces of the bearing components are
perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re
assembled.
5 Position the piston ring gaps as described
in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings
with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring
compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt
protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the
piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must
be compressed until they’re flush with the
piston.
6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin
(big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom Dead
Centre), and apply a coat of engine oil to the
cylinder walls.
7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod
assembly so that the arrow on the piston crown points to the timing belt/chain end of
the engine. Gently insert the assembly into the
No 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge
of the ring compressor on the engine block.
8
Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to
make sure it’s contacting the block around its
entire circumference.
9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the
end of a wooden hammer handle (see
illustration) , while guiding the connecting
rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston
rings may try to pop out of the ring
compressor just before entering the cylinder
bore, so keep some pressure on the ring
compressor. Work slowly, and if any
resistance is felt as the piston enters the
cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s
binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,
for any reason, force the piston into the
cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the
piston.
10 To check the big-end bearing running
clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size
Plastigauge slightly shorter than the width of
the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place
on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel
with the crankshaft centre-line (see
illustration 17.11).
11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating
surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.
Tighten the cap bolts evenly - on the HCS and
Zetec engines, first use a torque wrench to
tighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting,
then use an ordinary socket extension bar and
an angle gauge to tighten the bolts further
through the Stage 2 angle (see illustration).
On the CVH and PTE engines, tighten the
bolts progressively to the specified torque;
further angle-tightening is not required on
these engines. Use a thin-wall socket, to
avoid erroneous torque readings that can
result if the socket is wedged between the
cap and nut. If the socket tends to wedge
itself between the nut and the cap, lift up on it
slightly until it no longer contacts the cap.
Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during
this operation!
12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,
being very careful not to disturb the
Plastigauge.
13 Compare the width of the crushed
2D•24 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
18.11 Angle-tightening the big-end bolts
using the correct tool18.9 The piston can be driven gently into
the cylinder bore with the end of a wooden
or plastic hammer handle18.3 Tab on each big-end bearing shell
must engage with notch in connecting rod
or cap
17.20 Refit the crankshaft after checkingbearing clearances
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Plastigauge to the scale printed on the
Plastigauge envelope, to obtain the running
clearance (see illustration 17.15) . Compare it
to the Specifications, to make sure the
clearance is correct.
14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist, who can also supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was trapped between the
bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the crankpin diameter. If the
Plastigauge was wider at one end than the
other, the crankpin journal may be tapered.
15 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final piston/connecting rod
refitting
16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17 Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as
described above.
18 Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19 The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.
b) Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder -
use the etched cylinder numbers to
identify the front-facing side of both the
rod and its cap.
c) The arrow on the piston crown must face the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean
engine oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked. 20
After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.
21 On HCS engines, if the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer was removed, this is a good time
to refit it. First clean the joint area, then coat
the area indicated with the specified activator
(available from Ford dealers) (see
illustration) . Wait for a period of ten minutes,
then smear the shaded area with the specified
adhesive and immediately press the inlet pipe
into position in the crankcase.
19 Engine - initial start-up after
overhaul
1
1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove the
fuel pump fuse (fuel injection engines) to
disconnect the fuel pump (see Chapter 12).
Turn the engine on the starter until the oil
pressure warning light goes out.
3 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect
the ignition coil. On fuel injection engines, refit the fuel pump fuse, switch on the ignition and
listen for the fuel pump; it will run for a little
longer than usual, due to the lack of pressure
in the system.
4
Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets (where applicable)
have been disturbed, some valve gear noise
may be heard at first; this should disappear as
the oil circulates fully around the engine, and
normal pressure is restored in the tappets.
6 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
8 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly
- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must notbe
re-tightened.
9 If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during
this period. It is recommended that the oil and
filter be changed at the end of this period.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•25
18.21 Oil inlet pipe refitting details on the HCS engine
A Area of sealant application - dimensions in mm
B Edge must be parallel with engine longitudinal axis
2D
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
MOT test checksREF•13
REF
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
M It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free fr om
leaks.
M Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and pr
operly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
M Check that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressur es
ar e correct.
M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
fr ont wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
M Check the condition of the entire vehicle
structur e for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
ar eas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
pr ofessional repairs are likely to be needed.
M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
M Have the engine at normal operating
temperatur e, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
M Befor e any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unbur nt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carbur ettor or fuel system fault).
M An exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydr ocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
M At the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
Fr om January 1996 a much tighter limit
(ar ound 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
pr oblem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsM With the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
M The only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density . The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Glossary of technical termsREF•25
REF
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
pr event an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strut A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
cr eates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. Multimeter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhm The unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
pr oduce a current of one amp.
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action. Overhead cam (ohc) engine
An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screw A type of screw head having a
cr oss instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts areassembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
jour nal and bearing.
Pr opeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Pr oportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steering A steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
r ods to the steering arms at the wheels.
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker arm
A lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electr ode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’ s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-r ound condition of a rotating part.
SSealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammer A special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage
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