check engine FORD GRANADA 1985 Service User Guide

1Remove the radiator grille being careful not
to damage the condenser fins.
2Check the refrigerant charge as follows. The
engine should be cold and the ambient
temperature should be between 18°and 25°C
(64°and 77°F).
3Start the engine and allow it to idle. Observe
the refrigerant sight glass(see illustration)
and have an assistant switch on the air
conditioning to fan speed III. A few bubbles
should be seen in the sight glass as the
system starts up, but all bubbles should
disappear within 10 seconds. Persistent
bubbles, or no bubbles at all, mean that the
refrigerant charge is low. Switch off the
system immediately if the charge is low and do
not use it again until it has been recharged.
4Inspect the refrigerant pipes, hoses and
unions for security and good condition. Refit
the radiator grille.
5The air conditioning system will lose a
proportion of its charge through normal
seepage typically up to 100 g (4 oz) per year -
so it is as well to regard periodic recharging as
a maintenance operation.
1Check the final drive oil level as follows.
2Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands (see
“Jacking”). The vehicle must be level.
3Wipe clean around the final drive filler/level
plug (see illustration).Unscrew the plug with
a hexagon key. Using a piece of bent wire as
a dipstick, check that the oil is no more than
10 mm (0.4 in) below the plug hole.
4If topping-up is necessary, use clean gear
oil of the specified type. Do not overfill.
Frequent need for topping-up can only be due
to leaks, which should be rectified.
5When the level is correct, refit the filler/level
plug and tighten it.
6There is no requirement for periodic oil
changing, and no drain plug is provided. Lubricate the transmission selector and
kickdown linkages with engine oil or aerosol
lubricant.
1Examine all steering and suspension
components for wear and damage. Pay
particular attention to dust covers and gaiters,
which if renewed promptly when damaged can
save further damage to the component
protected.
2At the same intervals, check the front
suspension lower arm balljoints for wear by
levering up the arms(see illustration).
Balljoint free movement must not exceed
0.5 mm (0.02 in). The track rod end balljoints
can be checked in a similar manner, or by
observing them whilst an assistant rocks the
steering wheel back and forth. If the lower arm
balljoint is worn, the complete lower arm must
be renewed.
3Check the shock absorbers by bouncing the
vehicle up and down at each corner in turn.
When released, it should come to rest within
one complete oscillation. Continued
movement, or squeaking and groaning noises
from the shock absorber suggests that
renewal is required.Position the vehicle over a pit, or raise it at
front and rear on ramps or axle stands.
Examine the driveshaft joint rubber gaiters.
Flex the gaiters by hand and inspect the folds
and clips. Damaged or leaking gaiters must be
renewed without delay to avoid damage
occurring to the joint itself
Check the tightness of the final drive
mounting bolts and the driveshaft flange
screws.
1Except on vehicles with a wax-based
underbody protective coating, have the whole
of the underframe of the vehicle steam-
cleaned, engine compartment included, so
that a thorough inspection can be carried out
to see what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary.
2Steam-cleaning is available at many
garages, and is necessary for the removal of
the accumulation of oily grime, which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are some excellent grease
solvents available which can be brush-applied;
the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
3After cleaning, position the vehicle over a
pit, or raise it at front and rear on ramps or axle
stands.
4Using a strong light, work around the
underside of the vehicle, inspecting it for
corrosion or damage. If either is found, refer to
Chapter 12 for details of repair.
Periodically inspect the rigid brake pipes for
rust and other damage, and the flexible hoses
for cracks, splits or “ballooning”. Have an
assistant depress the brake pedal (ignition on)
and inspect the hose and pipe unions for
leaks. Renew any defective item without delay.
On 2.0 litre engines, good electrical contact
between the carburettor stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw is essential to
maintain a regular idle speed.
Clean the plunger and adjusting screw
contact faces with abrasive paper followed by
switch cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is
available from electronic component shops.
33Idle speed linkage clean
32Brake pipe and hose check
31Underbody inspection
30Driveshaft check
29Steering and suspension
security check
28Automatic transmission
selector linkage lubrication
27Final drive oil level check
26Air conditioner refrigerant
charge check
1•15
1
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months
27.3 Final drive oil filler/level plug (arrowed)
29.2 Checking a front suspension lower
arm balljoint
26.3 Refrigerant sight glass (arrowed)
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Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.
Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9Where applicable, check that the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the
drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear
lever action is not abnormally vague or
“notchy”.
Check the operation and
performance of the braking system
11Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels do
not lock prematurely when braking hard.
12Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
13Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
14Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After
about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
feel considerably firmer.1The power steering fluid dipstick is
incorporated in the reservoir filler cap. The
reservoir is mounted on the pump. Observe
scrupulous cleanliness when checking the
level or topping-up.
2The system should be at operating
temperature and the engine switched off.
Wipe clean around the reservoir filler cap.
Unscrew the cap, withdraw the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean lint-free rag. Reinsert the
dipstick, screw the cap home, then unscrew it
again and read the level on the dipstick. It
should be up to the MAX or upper HOT mark
(depending on the dipstick markings) (see
illustration).
3Top-up if necessary with clean fluid of the
specified type. Check for leaks if topping-up is
frequently required.
4If the level is checked cold, use the MIN or
FULL COLD mark on the dipstick for reference.
Recheck the level at operating temperature.
On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner cover and check that the automatic
choke is opening fully when the engine is hot.
Run the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Stop the engine and
immediately restart it. If the engine fails to start
cleanly and immediately then refer to either
Chapters 4 or 5 and check fuel feed
adjustments.
37Hot starting check
36Automatic choke check
35Power steering fluid level
check34Road test
Carburettor models
SOHC engines
1Remove the screws from the air cleaner
cover(see illustration).
2Release the spring clips (when fitted), then
lift off the cover (see illustration).
3Lift out the air cleaner element(see
illustration). Wipe clean inside the air cleaner
housing, but be careful not to sweep dirt into
the carburettor throat.
4Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, first
disconnect the cold air inlet trunking from the
spout (see illustration). 5Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the inlet
manifold, and the hot air trunking from the
spout or exhaust manifold shroud(see
illustration). 6Remove the remaining screw which secures
the air cleaner to the valve cover, then lift off
the air cleaner.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
38Air cleaner filter element
renewal
1•16Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
35.2 Removing the power steering fluid
dipstick
38.2 Releasing an air cleaner cover clip
(carburettor model)38.1 Removing an air cleaner cover screw
(carburettor model)
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
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DOHC engine
8Proceed as described above whilst noting
that the camshaft cover breather hose must
be disconnected before the air cleaner can be
removed.
Fuel-injection models
SOHC and V6 engines
9Release the four spring clips which secure
the air cleaner cover(see illustration).
10Lift off the cover and move it aside. It is
attached to the vane airflow meter(s): be
careful not to strain the air trunking or meter
wiring. To remove the cover completely,
disconnect the meter(s) or unbolt the cover
(see illustration).
11Remove the air cleaner element, notingwhich way up it is fitted (see illustration).
Wipe clean inside the air cleaner body.
12Where it is necessary to remove the air
cleaner body for cleaning or repair, remove the
three securing nuts which are accessible from
inside the left-hand wheel arch. Disengage the
body from the air pick-up hose and remove it.
13Refit by reversing the removal operations.DOHC engine
14To renewthe element, disconnect the
battery negative lead.
15Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
16Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
17Unscrew the securing nut, and release theair inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel (see illustration).
18Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
19Lift out the air cleaner element, then wipe
the inside of the air cleaner lid and casing
clean (see illustration).
20Fit the new element with the sealing lip
uppermost.
21Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
22To remove and refit the air cleaner
housing, refer to paragraph 12.
23Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
1Before disturbing any part of the ignition
system, disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Identify and clearly mark all HT leads before
disconnecting them from the spark plugs.
All engines except DOHC
3On V6 models, remove the screening can lid
(see illustration).
4Remove the coil-to-distributor HT lead
(sometimes called the king lead) by
disconnecting it from the coil tower and the
distributor cap.
5Disconnect the other HT leads from the
39Ignition system component
check
1•17
1
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years
38.4 Disconnecting the air cleaner cold air
inlet trunking (carburettor model)38.5 Air cleaner hot air trunking and
manifold shroud (carburettor model)38.3 Removing the air cleaner element
(carburettor model)
38.17 Air intake tube retaining nut
(fuel-injection DOHC)38.19 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection DOHC)38.11 Removing the air cleaner element
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)
38.9 Air cleaner cover spring clip
(fuel-injection SOHC and V6)38.10 Airflow meter to cover bolts
(arrowed) (fuel-injection SOHC and V6)
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the previous sub Section.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the rotor arm is pushed fully home on the
rotor shaft. Make sure that the HT leads are
fitted to their correct cylinders. Note that the
rotor arm will only fit in one position.
Note: A brake band torque wrench - Ford tool
No 17-005, or equivalent - will be required for
this job.
1Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2Disconnect the downshift (kickdown) cable
from the transmission when so equipped.
3Release the locknuts on the two brake band
adjuster screws. Back off each adjuster screw
a couple of turns (see illustration).
4Using the torque wrench, tighten one
adjusting screw to 13 Nm (10 lbf ft). Remove
the torque wrench and back off the adjuster
screw exactly two full turns from this position,
then hold the screw and tighten the locknut.
5Repeat the operations on the other adjuster.
6Reconnect the downshift cable, when
applicable, then lower the vehicle.
OHC engines
1Fitted to all fuel-injected models, the filter
can be renewed as follows. Disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3Place a drain pan under the fuel filter. Take
adequate fire precautions.
4Wipe clean the area around the filter inlet
and outlet unions, then disconnect them (see
illustration). Caution: Fuel under pressure
may spray out as the unions are slackened.
5Slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw
the filter from the clamp. Dispose of the filter
safely, remember it is full of fuel.
6Fit the new filter into the clamp,observing
the arrows on the filter indicating the direction
of fuel flow. If there is a plastic band or sleeve
on the filter, position the clamp over the sleeve
to prevent chafing. Tighten the clamp bolt.
7Refit the inlet and outlet unions, using new
sealing washers. Tighten the union bolts.
8Reconnect the battery. Have an assistantswitch the ignition on and off a few times to
pressurise the system; watch the filter for
leakage as this is done.
9Lower the vehicle on completion.
V6 engines
10This operation is essentially the same as
described above, noting that the fuel system
should first be depressurised, see Chapter 4,
Section 28.
11Once the new filter has been installed,
switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
system then check the filter unions for leaks.
Renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve
by pulling it from the oil separator and
loosening the hose clip (see illustration). Fit
the new valve, tighten the clip, and insert it
into the oil separator grommet.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
41Fuel filter renewal
40Automatic transmission
brake band adjustment
1•19
1
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
41.4 Fuel filter outlet union (arrowed) -
OHC engine42.1 Pulling the vent valve from the oil
separator - SOHC engine40.3 Brake band adjuster screw (A) and
locknut (B)
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant andbleeding equipment will be
needed. A considerable quantity of hydraulic
fluid will be required - probably about 2 litres
(nearly half a gallon).2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle andremove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a purpose-
made tool or a blunt item such as a tyre lever,
to force more fluid out of the caliper. Hold thepiston depressed and have the assistant
pump the pedal until air emerges from the
bleed screw again.
8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand caliper
at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the level of the
bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years
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12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of
the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 10.
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of thehydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.
Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure.
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45
for the full renewal procedure.
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal -
SOHC engines
1Before proceeding, note the precautions
given in Chapter 3, Section 1.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
4Place a drain pan of adequate capacity
beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the
plug, without removing it, and allow the
coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC
engines, release the hose clip and remove the
rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6
engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted)
from the radiator top hose.
5Place another drain pan below the cylinder
block drain plug, which is located on the right-
hand side of the engine (except DOHC engine
which has no plug). Remove the drain plug
and allow the coolant to drain from the block.
6Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it
in a covered container if it is to be re-used.7Flushing should not be necessary unless
periodic renewal of the coolant has been
neglected, or unless plain water has been
used as coolant. In either case the coolant will
appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is
then required and should be carried out as
follows.
8Drain the system and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose
into the radiator and run water into the radiator
until it flows clear from the drain plug.
9Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC
engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6
engines) until clean water comes out of the
cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines
there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so
the engine should be flushed until water runs
clear from the radiator bottom hose.
10If, after a reasonable period the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent.
11Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting
one of the heater hoses and running the hose
into that.
12In severe cases of contamination the
radiator should be removed, inverted andflushed in the reverse direction to normal flow,
ie with the water going in at the bottom and
out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while
doing this to dislodge any deposits.
13Refit any hoses which were disturbed,
making sure that they and their clips are in
good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain
plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.
14On OHC engines, make sure that the
bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC).
On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the
bleed screw is still removed.
15Pour coolant in through the expansion
tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX
line.
16Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when
coolant starts to emerge from the spigot.
Tighten the clip.
17Squeeze the radiator hoses to help
disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if
necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion
tank cap.
18Run the engine up to operating
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the
coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.
46Engine coolant renewal
1•20Every 2 years
46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap -
OHC engine46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) -
OHC engine
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
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Engine
Oil filter type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion C102
Valve clearances (cold):
SOHC:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.20 ±0.03 mm (0.008 ±0.001 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.25 ±0.03 mm (0.010 ±0.001 in)
V6:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.35 mm (0.014 in)
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.40 mm (0.016 in)
Cooling system
Specific gravity at 45 to 50% antifreeze concentration . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.069 to 1.077
Note:Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Fuel system
Air filter element type:
1.8 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion W118
2.0 litre (carburettor) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion W152
2.0 litre and V6 (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion U507
Fuel filter type:
All models (injection) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion L204
Ignition system
Spark plugs:
1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RF7YCC or RF7YC
2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC
2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 without catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
2.9 litre V6 with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
Spark plug electrode gap*:
Champion RF7YCC and RN7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 mm
Champion RF7YC and RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 mm
Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.8 mm
Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0.7 mm
Champion RS9YCC and RS9YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.0 mm
Ignition HT lead set:
Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 k ohms maximum per lead
Type:
1.8 and 2.0 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion LS-09 boxed set
1.8 and 2.0 litre (Male distributor fitting) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Champion LS-10 boxed set
*The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be
fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.
Brakes
Brake pad friction material minimum thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.5 mm (0.06 in)
Tyres
Tyre sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 SR/TR/HR 14, 185/70 HR/TR/VR 14,195/65 HR 15, 205/60
VR 15
Tyre pressures: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .FrontRear
Normal load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.8 bar (26 lbf/in
2)1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.1 bar (30 lbf/in2)2.9 bar (42 lbf/in2)
Note:Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier
for correct pressures if necessary.
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2816 to 21
Engine block coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
Spark plugs:
1.8 and 2.0 litre SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to2815 to 21
2.0 litre DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2111 to 15
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 to 4022 to 30
2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 2111 to 15
Manual gearbox filler/level and drain plugs:
N9 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 2717 to 20
MT75 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 to 4121 to 30
Brake caliper slide bolts:
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 to 3523 to 26
Roadwheel bolts (steel and alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
1•21
1
Specifications
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 2 Part A:
1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines
Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30
Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28
Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .5
Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .29
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
General1.8 HC E 2.0 HC 2.0 HC EFi
Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REC NEL NRA
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 (3.39) 90.82 (3.58) 90.82 (3.58)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 (109.6) 1993 (121.6) 1993 (121.6)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1 9.2:1 9.2:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 @ 5400 77 @ 5200 85 @ 5500
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 @ 3500 157 @ 4000 160 @ 4000
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See“Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx
Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar
Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar
Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar
2A•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2A
procarmanuals.com

The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft.The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft and cam followers are supplied with
oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre
camshaft bearing.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and on carburettor models a control
valve.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although the
work may be easier and quicker with the
engine removed:
a)Removal and refitting of the cylinder head
b)Removal and refitting of the camshaft
(after removing the cylinder head)
c)Removal and refitting of the timing belt
and sprockets
d)Removal and refitting of the sump and oil
pump
e)Removal and refitting of the pistons,
connecting rods and big-end bearings
f)Renewal of the engine mountings
g)Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals
h)Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft
j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle for the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own or together with the gearbox. Unless work
is also necessary on the gearbox it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should be removed on its
own owing to the additional weight. If the
engine and gearbox are removed together,
they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle;
make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is
adequate.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the
air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air
inlet trunking.
4If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.
5Release the securing clips and bolts and
remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On
carburettor models remove the lower half of
the shroud too.
6Drain the cooling system.
7Disconnect the radiator top and bottom
hoses from the thermostat housing and water
pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the
expansion tank and unclip it.
8Disconnect the heater hoses from the water
pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic
choke housing. Unclip the hoses.
9On models with power steering, remove the
steering pump.
10Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any
possibility of confusion.
11Disconnect the following wiring, as
applicable:
a)Alternator
b)Temperature gauge sender
c)Engine management temperature sensor
d)Distributor
e)Oil pressure switch
f)Automatic choke and thermo-switch
g)Carburettor stepper motor
h)Fuel-injection system sub-harness
j)Inlet manifold heater
12Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.
13If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it
(see illustration).
14Unbolt the throttle cable bracket,
disconnect the inner cable and move the cable
and bracket aside. Also disconnect the
downshift cable on automatic transmission
models.
15On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised
type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared
for fuel spillage.
16On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the
fuel return pipe from the fuel pressureregulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
for some spray if the supply side is still
under pressure.
17Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold.
18On models with air conditioning, unbolt
the compressor and move it aside without
straining the flexible hoses.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Although not specified by the
manufacturers, the author advises that either
the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to
reduce the risk of damage.
21Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting
eyes on the engine, so that when suspended
the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the
weight of the engine.
22Remove the single nut on each side which
secures each engine bearer to its mounting.
23Working under the vehicle, remove the
bracing strap which connects the engine and
transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from
the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.
24On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
25Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Note the location of the battery earth strap.
26Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
27Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.
28On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the torque converter stays engaged
with the oil pump in the transmission as the
engine is withdrawn,
29Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.
1Engine removal with automatic transmission
is not recommended.
2Proceed as in the previous Section,
paragraphs 1 to 18.
3Disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor, and release the battery earth cable
from its bellhousing bolt.
4Remove the radiator.
5Remove the propeller shaft.
6Disconnect and unclip the reversing light
switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.
7Disconnect the clutch cable.
8Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets
and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.
9From inside the vehicle remove the gear
lever.
10Drain the engine oil.
11Unhook the exhaust system from its
mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either
support the system or remove it completely.
12Support the gearbox, preferably with a
trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the
gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if
fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.
13Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes
on the engine so that when suspended it will
be at an angle of approximately 45°.
6Engine - removal with manual
gearbox
5Engine - removal leaving
gearbox/transmission in vehicle
4Methods of engine removal
3Major operations requiring
engine removal
2Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
SOHCengines 2A•5
2A
5.13 Oil level sensor
procarmanuals.com

1Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
sprocket (only).
2If an oil seal removal tool is available. the oil
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling
the outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump.
Also remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
Unbolt the oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
front cover and remove the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside (see
illustrations).
4Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using metal tubing or a suitable
socket (see illustration). Make sure that thesealing lip faces into the engine, and lightly oil
the lip.
5If applicable fit the oil seal housing and
auxiliary shaft front cover to the block together
with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. Make
sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block (see
illustrations). Fit the sump.
6Refit the timing belt and sprockets.
1Remove the flywheel or driveplate and the
engine adapter plate (backplate).
2Using a special removal tool extract the oil
seal (see illustration).However it may be
possible to remove the oil seal by drilling the
outer face and using self-tapping screws and
a pair of grips.3Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make
sure that the sealing lip faces into the engine,
and lightly oil the lip.
4Refit the adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the block (see illustration).
3Using a special splined key, unscrew the
bolts and withdraw the oil pump and strainer
(see illustration).
4Withdraw the hexagon shaped driveshaft
which engages the bottom of the distributor,
noting which way round it is fitted (see
illustration).
19Oil pump - removal
18Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
17Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
2A•10SOHCengines
17.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil
seal housing
19.2 Unbolting the oil pump pick-up
strainer from the block19.3 Removing the splined bolts which
secure the oil pump19.4 Removing the oil pump driveshaft
18.2 Using an oil seal removal tool to
extract the crankshaft rear oil seal
17.3b Driving the oil seal out of the housing
17.5a Oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
cover gasket in position17.5b Checking the alignment of the front
oil seal housing
17.4 Using a socket and a hammer to seat
the new seal
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 8.
1Remove the sump and cylinder head.
2Check the big-end caps for identification
marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
identify the caps and connecting rods (see
illustration).
3Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and
tap off the cap. Keep the bearing shells in the
cap and connecting rod.4Using the handle of a hammer, push the
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod
(see illustration).
5Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and 4
on the No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
and connecting rods.
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the pistons and connecting rods as
described in the previous Section. (In fact it is
not necessary to push the pistons out of the
bores if no work is to be done on them.)2Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel or driveplate. Also
remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
3Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and auxiliary shaft front cover and remove the
gasket.
4Remove the oil pump and strainer.
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them (see
illustration).
6Before removing the crankshaft check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see
illustration). This will indicate whether new
thrustwashers are required or not.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells
(see illustration). If the thrustwashers are to
be re-used identify them for location.
8Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the rear oil seal. Remove the
remaining thrustwashers (see illustrations).
9Extract the bearing shells keeping them
identified for location (see illustration).
1Unscrew the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the tops of the mountings.
Recover the washers(see illustration).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Remove the two nuts which secure the
23Engine mountings - renewal
22Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal
21Pistons and connecting rods
- removal
20Oil filter - renewal
SOHCengines 2A•11
2A
21.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
identification numbers21.4 Piston, connecting rod, cap and
bearing shells22.5 Main bearing cap identification marks
The arrow points to the front of the engine
22.8a Removing the crankshaft
22.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat
22.8b Removing a thrustwasher from the
centre main bearing
22.7 Removing the rear main bearing cap
22.9 Removing the centre main bearing
shell
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