stop start FORD GRANADA 1985 Service User Guide

20Checking and adjustment should be
completed within 30 seconds of the meter
readings stabilising. If this has not been
possible, run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15
seconds, then allow the engine to idle. Re-
check the CO content and carry out further
adjustments if necessary.
21On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer and the
exhaust gas analyser. Refit the cover to the
adjustment screw.
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines
22As with the 2.8 V6, idle speed is
electronically controlled. Basic idle speed
adjustment can only be carried out by a Ford
dealer using special equipment.
23On models not equipped with a catalytic
converter, mixture adjustment can be carried
out as described above.
24On models equipped with a catalytic
converter, the mixture is controlled by the EEC IV
module and no manual adjustment is possible.
SOHC and V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Free the throttle position sensor multi-plug
from its clip. On the OHCmodels this is below
the idle speed control valve, on the underside
of the inlet manifold; on V6 engines it is
located below the throttle valve housing.
3Relieve the locktabs and unbolt the throttle
position sensor (see illustration). Pull the
sensor off the throttle valve shaft, disconnect
the multi-plug and remove the sensor.
4Do not rotate the centre part of the sensor
beyond its normal range of movement, or
damage may result.
5When refitting, line up the flat on the throttle
valve shaft with the flat on the centre of the
sensor. Make sure that the sensor is the right
way round and fit it over the shaft.
6Fit and tighten the two bolts and secure it
with the locktabs.
7Reconnect and secure the multi-plug, then
reconnect the battery.
DOHC engine
8Disconnect the battery negative lead.
9Free the throttle position sensor wiring plug
from the retaining clip located on the
underside of the throttle body. Disconnect the
wiring plug halves by releasing the locktabs
and pulling on the plug halves, not the wiring
(see illustration).
10Unscrew the two sensor securing screws,
and withdraw the sensor from the throttle
shaft.
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
that the sensor fits with the wiring at the
bottom, and ensuring that the sensor
actuating arm engages correctly with the
throttle spindle.1On DOHC models, disconnect the battery
negative lead.
2Free the throttle position sensor wiring plug
from the retaining clip located on the
underside of the throttle body. Disconnect the
wiring plug halves by releasing the locktabs
and pulling on the plug halves, not the wiring.
3Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) the speed control cable from the
throttle linkage.
4Loosen the securing clip, and disconnect
the air inlet hose from the throttle body.
5Unscrew the four securing bolts and
withdraw the throttle body from the inlet
manifold along with the gasket.
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the mating faces of the
throttle body and the inlet manifold are
clean, and fit a new gasket.
b)On completion, adjust the throttle cable
and where necessary, adjust the speed
control cable so that there is only a small
amount of slack in the cable.
c)Where applicable, check and if necessary
adjust the idle mixture.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle
speed control valve by prising up the retaining
lug and pulling the plug, not the wires (see
illustration).
3Remove the two securing nuts (OHC) or
bolts (V6) and withdraw the valve (see
illustration). Recover the gasket.
4If necessary, the solenoid can be separated
from the valve block by removing the two
screws to enable the parts to be cleaned.
Contamination or air leaks in this area will
cause unstable idling. After careful cleaning,
the parts can be reassembled.
5Refit the valve, using a new gasket, and
tighten the retaining nuts or bolts. Reconnect
the multi-plug and the battery.
6Start the engine and check that the idle is
steady. Bring the engine to operating
temperature, then switch on all possible electrical
loads (headlights, heated screens, heater blower
etc) and check that the idle remains steady. This
confirms that the valve is working.
DOHC engine
7Disconnect the battery negative lead.
8Loosen the securing clip, and disconnect
the air inlet hose from the throttle body.
34Idle speed control valve -
removal and refitting33Throttle body - removal and
refitting
32Throttle position sensor -
removal and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•15
4
32.3 Throttle position sensor retaining bolts
(arrowed)32.9 Throttle position sensor (A) and wiring
plug (B)
34.2 Disconnecting the idle speed control
valve34.3 Removing the idle speed control valve
procarmanuals.com

55Release the throttle position sensor wiring
connector from the clip under the throttle
body, and separate the two halves of the
connector.
56Remove the fuel-injectors.
57Check that all relevant wiring, hoses and
pipes have been disconnected to facilitate
removal of the manifold.
58Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder
head, and carefully withdraw the manifold.
Recover the gasket.
59Recover the two plastic spark plug
spacers from the recesses in the cylinder head
(see illustration).
60If desired, the manifold can be dismantled
with reference to the relevant paragraphs of
this Chapter.
61Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
b)Ensure manifold and cylinder head mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit a new
gasket.
c)Tighten the manifold retaining nuts and
bolts evenly and progressively to the
specified torque.
d)Refit the fuel-injectors.
e)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions.
f)On completion, refill the cooling system.
g)Check the adjustment of the throttle cable
and where necessary, adjust the speed
control cable so that only a small amount
of slack is present in the cable.
h)Where applicable, check and if necessary
adjust the idle speed and mixture.
V6 engines
62Disconnect the battery negative lead.
63Drain the cooling system.
64Remove the throttle linkage cover.
65Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking aside.
Unclip or remove the crankcase ventilation
hose.
66Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
heater hose from the outlet at the front of the
manifold. Be prepared for some coolant spillage.67Disconnect the multi-plugs from the idle
speed control valve, the temperature gauge
sender unit; the coolant temperature sensor
and the throttle position sensor. Also
disconnect the injector wiring harness.
68Disconnect the throttle cable from the
linkage, unclip it and move it aside. On
automatic transmission models, also
disconnect the downshift cable or multi-plug,
as applicable.
69Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes.
Be prepared for fuel spillage.
70Remove the HT leads and the distributor.
71Remove the plenum chamber, which is
secured by eight bolts.
72Remove the rocker covers, which are each
secured by seven bolts.
73Disconnect the water pump bypass hose
from the inlet manifold.
74Remove the eight bolts which secure the
inlet manifold to the cylinder heads.
75Lift off the manifold complete with fuel
pressure regulator, fuel rail, throttle body
housing etc. If it is stuck, carefully lever it free.
Do not apply leverage at the mating faces.
Recover the gasket.
76Clean all mating faces, being careful to
keep dirt out of ports and other orifices.
Obtain new gaskets for both the cylinder head
and plenum chamber sides of the manifold,
and for the rocker covers.
77Commence refitting by applying sealant
(Ford part No A70X-19554-BA, or equivalent)
around the ports and coolant passages on the
cylinder head.
78Apply sealant around the apertures on
both sides of the gasket. then fit the gasket to
the cylinder heads.
79Refit the manifold and insert the securing
bolts. Tighten the bolts, in the order shown
(see illustration),through the first four stages
given in the Specifications.
80Refit the water pump bypass hose.
81Refit the rocker covers, using new
gaskets. The adhesive sides of the gaskets
must face the covers.
82Reverse the remaining removal
operations, but do not refit the throttle linkage
cover yet.
83When the cooling system has beenrefilled, reconnect the battery and start the
engine. Check for fuel and other leaks.
84Bring the engine to operating temperature,
then stop it and carry out the final tightening of
the inlet manifold bolts as follows.
85Release the air inlet trunking. Unplug the
idle speed control valve and the throttle
position sensor. Unbolt the plenum chamber
and move it aside, disconnecting vacuum and
breather hoses as necessary.
86Slacken, but do not remove, the two bolts
which secure the fuel rail to the manifold.
87Tighten the inlet manifold bolts to the
Stage 5 specified torque, again following the
sequence shown. A special cranked spanner
(Ford tool No 21-079, or equivalent)(see
illustration)will be needed to tighten No 4
bolt when the distributor is fitted. In the
absence of such a spanner, remove the
distributor again.
88Tighten the fuel rail securing bolts.
89Refit the disturbed components. Run the
engine again and check the ignition timing and
the exhaust CO level .
90Refit the throttle linkage cover.
SOHC and all V6 engines
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Apply copious quantities of penetrating oil
to the manifold and exhaust pipe flange nuts
and bolts.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner and the hot air pick-up pipe.
4Unbolt any heat shields or shrouds from the
manifold.
5Unbolt the exhaust pipe(s) from the manifold
flange. Support the exhaust system if
necessary.
6Unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head
and remove it. Recover the gasket.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use a new gasket, and apply anti-seize
compound to the various nuts and bolts.
Tighten the manifold fastenings to the
specified torque.
41Exhaust manifold(s) - removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•21
4
40.59 Removing a spark plug spacer from
the cylinder head recess40.79 Inlet manifold bolt tightening
sequence
Arrow points to front of engine40.87 Cranked spanner needed for
tightening V6 inlet manifold bolt with
distributor fitted
procarmanuals.com

DOHC carburettor engine
8This procedure is essentially as described
above, noting the following points:
a)Note the plastic bush which is fitted to the
rear manifold stud. This must be removed
before the gasket can be withdrawn.
b)On refitting ensure that the mating
surfaces are clean and dry and fit new
gaskets.
c)Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound
to the manifold studs to aid future
removal.
d)Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified
torque settings.
DOHC fuel-injection engine
9Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed control valve at the front of the plenum
chamber.
11Loosen the clamp, and detach the air inlet
hose from the air inlet tubing.
12Unscrew the securing nut, and release the
air inlet tube from the bracket on the engine
compartment front panel.
13Release the air cleaner lid securing clips,
then lift away the air inlet tube, plenum
chamber and air cleaner lid as an assembly,
disconnecting the breather hose from the air
inlet tube.
14On models fitted with a catalytic
converter, disconnect the exhaust gas oxygen
sensor wiring plug.
15Unscrew the securing nuts and disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
Recover the gasket. Support the exhaust
downpipe from underneath the vehicle (eg
with an axle stand) to avoid placing
unnecessary strain on the exhaust system.
16Unscrew the six securing nuts, and lift the
manifold from the cylinder head. Recover the
gasket.
17Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean, and
use a new gasket.
b)Tighten the manifold securing nuts and
the downpipe securing nuts progressively
to the specified torque (where given).
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Periodically inspect the exhaust system for
freedom from corrosion and security of
mountings. Large holes will be obvious; small
holes may be found more easily by letting the
engine idle and partly obstructing the tailpipe
with a wad of cloth.
2Check the condition of the rubber
mountings by applying downward pressure on
the exhaust system and observing the
mountings for splits or cracks. Renew
deteriorated mountings.
3The exhaust systems fitted in production
have fewer sections than those available for
repair. Repair sections may be fitted to
production systems by cutting at the
appropriate point.
4The production exhaust systems are made
of aluminised and stainless steel. Repair
systems are available to the same standard, or
in standard quality (SQ) painted mild steel.
5It is recommended that the whole exhaust
system be removed even if only part requires
renewal, since separation of old joints, cutting
pipes etc is much easier away from the
vehicle. Proceed as follows.
6Disconnect the battery negative lead. Raise
and support the vehicle.
7Unbolt the manifold-to-downpipe flanged
joint(s).
8On V6 models, unbolt the left-hand front
silencer mounting.
9Release any earth straps.
10With the help of an assistant, unhook the
system from its mountings and remove it.
11Renew sections as necessary. Apply
exhaust jointing compound to sliding and
flanged joints, but do not tighten their clamps
yet. Use new sealing rings where necessary
(see illustration).
12Offer the system to the vehicle and hook it
onto the mountings.
13Refit any earth straps. On V6 models, also
refit the left-hand front silencer mounting.
14Loosely fit the manifold flange nuts.
Correct the alignment of the system, then
tighten all clamp nuts and bolts, starting at the
manifold flange(s) and working rearwards.
15Check that the system alignment is still
satisfactory then reconnect the battery. Run
the engine and check for leaks.
16When the system has warmed up, stop the
engine and carefully check the tightness of the
clamp nuts and bolts.
DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engines
17Follow the above procedure, noting that
flanged joints incorporating gaskets may be
used to join exhaust sections on these
models. Where applicable, renew the gaskets
on refitting.
18On models fitted with a catalyticconverter, disconnect the battery negative
terminal and disconnect the exhaust gas
oxygen (HEGO) sensor wiring plug before
removing the downpipe.
DOHC engine
Note: The exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
is delicate and will not work if it is dropped or
knocked, if the power supply is disrupted, or if
any cleaning materials are used on it. Never
touch the tip of the sensor as this can also
damage it.
1Ensure that the engine and the exhaust
system are cold.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
4Disconnect the sensor wiring plug halves by
releasing the locktabs and pulling on the plug
halves, not the wiring.
5Slide the heat shield (where fitted) from the
sensor.
6Bearing in mind the note made at the start
of this operation, unscrew the sensor from the
exhaust downpipe, and recover the sealing
ring (see illustration).
7Commence refitting by ensuring that the
sensor threads and the corresponding threads
in the downpipe are clean.
8Refit the sensor using a new sealing ring,
and tighten it to the specified torque.
9Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but
on completion start the engine, and check for
leaks around the sensor sealing ring.
V6 engines
10The sensors fitted to these models can be
removed and refitted using the information
given above, noting that on early models there
was only one sensor, which was fitted at the
point where the two downpipes meet below
the engine, and on some later models there
are two sensors, one in each downpipe.
43Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO)
sensor (models with catalytic
converter) - removal and
refitting
42Exhaust system - inspection,
repair and renewal
4•22Fuel and exhaust systems
43.6 Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor
(viewed from underneath)
42.11 Exhaust pipe flanged joint
A Sealing ring
B Flange
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engine coolant temperature sensor. The
crankshaft speed/position sensor is activated
by a toothed disc on the rear of the crankshaft,
inside the cylinder block. The disc has 35
equally spaced teeth (one every 10°), with a
gap in the 36th position. The gap is used by
the sensor to determine the crankshaft
position relative to Top Dead Centre (TDC) of
No 1 piston.
The ignition advance is a function of the
ESC II module, and is controlled by vacuum.
The module is connected to the carburettor by
a vacuum pipe, and a transducer in the
module translates the vacuum signal into an
electrical voltage. From the vacuum signal, the
module determines engine load; engine speed
and temperature are determined from the
crankshaft speed/position sensor and the
engine coolant temperature sensor. The
module has a range of spark advance settings
stored in the memory, and a suitable setting is
selected for the relevant engine speed, load
and temperature. The degree of advance can
thus be constantly varied to suit the prevailing
engine speed and load conditions.
On DOHC fuel-injected engines, a
development of the EEC IV (Electronic Engine
Control IV) engine management system is
used to control both the ignition and fuel-
injection systems. The EEC IV module receives
information from a crankshaft speed/position
sensor (the same as that fitted to the
carburettor models), a throttle position sensor,
an engine coolant temperature sensor, a fuel
temperature sensor, an air charge temperature
sensor, a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor, and a vehicle speed sensor (mounted
on the gearbox). Additionally, on models with
a catalytic converter, an additional input is
supplied to the EEC IV module from an
exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor. On
models with automatic transmission,
additional sensors are fitted to the
transmission to inform the EEC IV module
when the transmission is in neutral, and when
the downshift is being operated.
The module provides outputs to control the
fuel pump, fuel-injectors, idle speed, ignition
system and automatic transmission .
Additionally, on models with air conditioning,
the EEC IV module disengages the air
conditioning compressor clutch when starting
the engine or when the engine is suddenly
accelerated. On models fitted with a catalytic
converter, the EEC IV module also controls the
carbon canister purge solenoid valve.
Using the inputs from the various sensors,
the EEC IV module computes the optimum
ignition advance, and fuel-injector pulse
duration to suit the prevailing engine
conditions.
On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines, the system
operates in much the same way as that fitted
to the DOHC fuel-injected engine, noting the
following points.
a)There is no crankshaft speed/position
sensor.
b)The vehicle speed sensor is only fitted to
models equipped with a catalytic
converter.Precautions
ESC II module
Although it will tolerate all normal under-
bonnet conditions, the ESC II module may be
adversely affected by water entry during
steam cleaning or pressure washing of the
engine bay.
If cleaning the engine bay, therefore, take
care not to direct jets of water or steam at the
ESC II module. If this cannot be avoided,
remove the module completely, and protect its
multi-plug with a plastic bag.
Ignition system HT voltage
Take care to avoid receiving electric shocks
from the HT side of the ignition system. Do not
handle HT leads, or touch the distributor or
coil, when the engine is running. When tracing
faults in the HT system, use well insulated
tools to manipulate live leads. Electronic
ignition HT voltage could prove fatal.
Electronic ignition systems
General
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual, available from the publishers of this
manual.
It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system, to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in Safety first!at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system.Even with the
battery disconnected, capacitive discharge
could occur if a component’s live terminal is
earthed through a metal object. This could
cause a shock or nasty burn.
Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry, could be irreparably
damaged.
If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive-to-positiveand negative-to-
negative(see “Jump starting”). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, the
alternator, any electrical wiring, or any test
instruments, when the engine is running.
Do not allow the engine to turn the alternator
when the alternator is not connected.
Never test for alternator output by “flashing”
the output lead to earth.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.
Before using electric-arc welding equipment
on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator,
and components such as the fuel-
injection/ignition electronic control unit, to
protect them from the risk of damage.
Refer to Chapter 13
1In normal use the battery should not require
charging from an external source, unless the
vehicle is laid up for long periods, when it
should be recharged every six weeks or so. If
vehicle use consists entirely of short runs in
darkness it is also possible for the battery to
become discharged. Otherwise, a regular
need for recharging points to a fault in the
battery or elsewhere in the charging system.
2There is no need to disconnect the battery
from the vehicle wiring when using a battery
charger, but switch off the ignition and leave
the bonnet open.
3Domestic battery chargers (up to about 6
amps output) may safely be used overnight
without special precautions. Make sure that
the charger is set to deliver 12 volts before
connecting it. Connect the leads (red or
positive to the positive terminal, black or
negative to the negative terminal) before
switching the charger on at the mains.
4When charging is complete, switch off at
the mains beforedisconnecting the charger
from the battery. Remember that the battery
will be giving off hydrogen gas, which is
potentially explosive.
5Charging at a higher rate should only be
carried out under carefully controlled
conditions. Very rapid or “boost” charging
should be avoided if possible, as it is liable to
cause permanent damage to the battery
through overheating.
6During any sort of charging, battery
electrolyte temperature should never exceed
38°C (100°F). If the battery becomes hot, or
the electrolyte is effervescing vigorously,
charging should be stopped.
3Battery - charging
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5
Warning. The voltages produced
by the electronic ignition system
are considerably higher than those
produced by conventional
systems. Extreme care must be taken when
working on the system with the ignition
switched on. Persons with surgically-
implanted cardiac pacemaker devices
should keep well clear of the ignition
circuits, components and test equipment.
procarmanuals.com

16Undo the wiring connector retaining bolt
then carefully disconnect the wiring plug and
remove the module from the car (see
illustration).
17Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure ensuring that the wiring plug bolt is
securely tightened. On completion start the
engine and check that it runs correctly.
Note: Irregular idle is not necessarily caused
by a faulty or badly adjusted stepper motor.
Good electrical contact between the stepper
motor plunger and the adjusting screw is
essential. Before attempting adjustment or
renewal of the motor, try the effect of cleaning
the plunger and adjusting screw contact faces
with abrasive paper followed by switch
cleaning fluid. Switch cleaning fluid is available
from electronic component shops.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Disconnect the multi-plug from the stepper
motor. Release the locking clip and pull on the
plug, not on the wires.
4Remove the four screws which secure the
stepper motor bracket to the carburettor.Remove the motor and bracket and separate
them (see illustration).
5Refit the motor and bracket to the
carburettor and secure with the four screws.
Reconnect the multi-plug.
6Make an initial adjustment to the throttle
lever adjusting screw if necessary so that it
protrudes from the lever by dimension X (see
illustration).
7Reconnect the air cleaner vacuum hose.
Position the air cleaner to one side so that
there is still access to the carburettor and
stepper motor.
8Connect a tachometer (rev. counter) to the
engine as instructed by the manufacturers.
Reconnect the battery.
9Run the engine. Check the idle mixture (CO
level) as described in Chapter 4 and adjust if
necessary.
10Switch off all electrical loads (headlights,
heater blower etc). If the idle speed adjustment
lead is earthed, temporarily isolate it. Make
sure that the automatic transmission selector is
in the N or P position (where applicable).
11Accelerate the engine to a speed greater
then 2500 rpm, allow it to return to idle, then
repeat. Insert a feeler blade of thickness 1.0
mm (0.04 in) between the stepper motor
plunger and the adjusting screw(see
illustration).With the feeler blade in place,
engine speed should be 875 ±25 rpm. 12If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof cap from the adjusting screw
locknut. Release the locknut, turn the
adjusting screw to achieve the correct speed
and tighten the locknut.
13Repeat paragraph 11 and check that the
speed is still correct. Readjust if necessary.
14Remove the feeler blade. Stop and restart
the engine, observing the stepper motor
plunger. Immediately after switching off, the
plunger should move to the “anti-dieseling”
position; after a few seconds it should extend
to the “vent manifold/start” position (see
illustration).
15Disconnect the test gear and refit the air
cleaner.
16Recheck the idle mixture.
17Fit new tamperproof plugs or caps if
necessary - see Chapter 4,
18Reconnect the idle speed adjustment lead
if it was earthed.
1The engine management system
temperature sensor is located on the underside
of the inlet manifold (SOHC engines), the side
of the manifold (DOHC engines) or on the front
face of the cylinder block (V6 engines).
20Coolant temperature sensor -
removal and refitting
19Carburettor stepper motor
(2.0 litre models) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
5•10Engine electrical systems
18.16 Disconnecting the EEC IV module
A Multi-plugB Securing bolt
19.6 Throttle lever initial adjustment
A Plunger
B Adjusting screw
C CapX 7.5 ±1.0 mm
(0.30 ±0.04 in)
19.11 Stepper motor adjustment
A LocknutB Feeler blade
19.14 Stepper motor plunger positions
A Vent manifold/start
B Anti-dieselingC Idle
19.4 Carburettor stepper motor and
mounting bracket18.15 Removing the engine management
modules (glovebox removed for clarity)
procarmanuals.com

Models covered in this Manual have disc
brakes fitted all round. The footbrake operates
hydraulically on all four wheels, and the
handbrake operates mechanically on the rear
wheels. Both footbrake and handbrake are
self-adjusting in use.
Ford’s anti-lock braking system (ABS) is
fitted to all models. The system monitors the
rotational speed of each roadwheel. When a
wheel begins to lock under heavy braking, the
ABS reduces the hydraulic pressure to that
wheel, so preventing it from locking. When this
happens a pulsating effect will be noticed at
the brake pedal. On some road surfaces the
tyres may squeal when braking hard even
though the wheels are not locked.
The main components of the system are the
hydraulic unit, the calipers, pads and discs,
the wheel sensors and the “brain” or control
module. The hydraulic unit contains the
elements of a traditional master cylinder, plus
an electric motor and pump, a pressure
accumulator and control valves. The pump is
the source of pressure for the system and
does away with the need for a vacuum servo.
The hydraulic circuit is split front and rear,
as is normal practice with rear-wheel drive
vehicles. In the event that the hydraulic pump
fails, unassisted braking effort is still available
on the front calipers only.
Warning lights inform the driver of low brake
fluid level, ABS failure and (on some models)
brake pad wear. The low fluid level light
doubles as a “handbrake on” light; if it
illuminates at the same time as the ABS
warning light, it warns of low hydraulic
pressure.
ABS cannot overturn the laws of physics:
stopping distances will inevitably be greater on
loose or slippery surfaces. However, the system
should allow even inexperienced drivers to
retain directional control under panic braking.
From August 1986 the following
modifications were made to the braking
system.
a)The relays differ from earlier versions.b)The hydraulic pump is constructed of iron
rather than alloy.
c)A new pressure warning switch is used.
d)The earlier high pressure rubber hose is
replaced by a steel pipe.
To overcome the problem of excessive rear
brake pad wear, Ford introduced a differential
valve which is screwed into the ABS valve
block.The valve limits the pressure applied to
the rear brake calipers and so reduces brake
pad wear. From 1988 onwards, the valve has
been fitted during production. The differential
valve can also be fitted to earlier models. Refer
to your Ford dealer for further information.
From April 1992 onwards, the models
covered in this Manual were equipped with a
new Teves MK IV anti-lock braking system
instead of the Teves MK II system fitted to the
earlier models.
The Teves MK IV system differs from the
earlier MK II system in the following ways.
a)The source of hydraulic pressure for the
system is a conventional master cylinder
and vacuum servo assembly.
b)A valve block and pump assembly is used
instead of the hydraulic control unit. The
block contains the inlet and outlet
solenoid valves that control the hydraulic
system. There are three pairs of valves,
one for each brake circuit (paragraph c).
c)The hydraulic braking system consists of
three separate circuits; one for each front
brake (which are totally independent of
each other), and a joint circuit which
operates both rear brakes.
d)A G (gravity) switch is incorporated in the
system. This is an inertia type switch and
informs the control module when the
vehicle is decelerating rapidly.
e)A Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) is fitted to the
vacuum servo unit. The PTS informs the
control module of the position of the brake
pedal when the anti-lock sequence starts
and ensures that a constant pedal height
is maintained during the sequence.
The MK IV system operates as follows.
During normal operation the system
functions in the same way as a non-ABS
system would. During this time the three inlet
valves in the valve block are open and theoutlet valves are closed, allowing full hydraulic
pressure present in the master cylinder to act
on the main braking circuit. If the control
module receives a signal from one of the
wheel sensors and senses that a wheel is
about to lock, it closes the relevant inlet valve
in the valve block which then isolates the
brake caliper on the wheel which is about to
lock from the master cylinder, effectively
sealing in the hydraulic pressure. If the speed
of rotation of the wheel continues to decrease
at an abnormal rate, the control module will
then open the relevant outlet valve in the valve
block; this allows the fluid from the relevant
hydraulic circuit to return to the master
cylinder reservoir, releasing pressure on the
brake caliper so that the brake is released. The
pump in the valve block also operates to assist
in the quick release of pressure. Once the
speed of rotation of the wheel returns to an
acceptable rate the pump stops, the outlet
valve closes and the inlet valve is opened,
allowing the hydraulic master cylinder
pressure to return to the caliper which then
reapplies the brake. This cycle can be carried
many times a second. The solenoid valves
connected to the front calipers operate
independently, but the valve connected to the
rear calipers operates both calipers
simultaneously.
The operation of the ABS system is entirely
dependent on electrical signals. To prevent
the system responding to any inaccurate
signals, a built-in safety circuit monitors all
signals received by the control module. If an
inaccurate signal or low battery voltage is
detected, the ABS system is automatically
shut down and the warning lamp on the
instrument cluster is illuminated to inform the
driver that the ABS system is not operational.
Whilst in this state the system functions in the
same way as a non-ABS system would. If a
fault does develop in the ABS system, the car
must be taken to a Ford dealer for fault
diagnosis and repair. The system is equipped
with a diagnostic plug into which a special
diagnostic (STAR) tester can be plugged. This
allows faults to be easily traced.
1General information
10•2Braking system
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front caliper:
To stub axle carrier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Rear caliper:
Bracket to carrier plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 to 6138 to 45
Slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 to 3523 to 26
Hydraulic unit to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Accumulator to pump body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 95 to 7
High pressure hose banjo bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 2412 to 18
Reservoir mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 to 63 to 4
Wheel sensor fixing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Vacuum servo unit retaining nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4526 to 33
Master cylinder retaining nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Valve block and pump assembly mounting nuts (Teves MK IV) . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
procarmanuals.com

Note: Hydraulic fluid is poisonous; wash off
immediately and thoroughly in the case of skin
contact and seek immediate medical advice if
any fluid is swallowed or gets into the eyes.
Certain types of hydraulic fluid are inflammable
and may ignite when allowed into contact with
hot components; when servicing any hydraulic
system it is safest to assume that the fluid is
inflammable and to take precautions against
the risk of fire as though it is petrol that is
being handled. Finally, it is hygroscopic (it
absorbs moisture from the air) old fluid may be
contaminated and unfit for further use. When
topping-up or renewing the fluid, always use
the recommended type and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed container
1Bleeding is necessary whenever air has
entered the hydraulic system - for instance
after component renewal. Because the
hydraulic circuits are split, if only the front or
rear circuit has been disturbed it will normally
only be necessary to bleed the front or rear
calipers. If the hydraulic unit has been
disturbed or the fluid level has been allowed to
fall so low that air has entered the system,
both front and rear circuits must be bled,
starting with the front
2The services of an assistant will be required.
As far as is known, pressure bleeding or other
“one-man” equipment cannot be used. In
addition a supply of fresh brake fluid of the
correct type will be needed, together with a
length of flexible tube to fit the bleed screws
and a clean glass or plastic container.
3Do not allow the hydraulic unit pump motor
to run for more than two minutes at a time. The
motor must be allowed to cool (with the
ignition off) for at least ten minutes after each
two minute spell of running.
4Remember that brake fluid is poisonous and
that the rear brake hydraulic system may be
under considerable pressure. Take care not to
allow hydraulic fluid to spray into the face or
eyes.
5Keep the reservoir topped up to the MAX
mark during bleeding.
6Discard the fluid bled out of the system as it
is unfit for re-use.
Models before April 1992
Front brakes
7Remove the dust cap (if fitted) from the left-
hand caliper bleed screw. Slacken the bleed
screw, then nip it up again. Make sure that the
ignition is off.8Fit the bleed tube over the bleed screw.
Place the other end of the tube in the bleed jar
(glass or plastic container). Pour sufficient
brake fluid into the jar to cover the end of the
tube.
9Open the bleed screw one full turn. Have
the assistant depress the brake pedal as far as
it will go, and hold it depressed. Tighten the
bleed screw, then tell the assistant to release
the pedal.
10Repeat paragraph 9 until clean fluid, free
of air bubbles, flows from the bleed screw
during the downstrokes. Remember to keep
the fluid reservoir topped up.
11Repeat the operations on the right-hand
caliper. Refit the bleed screw dust caps (if
applicable) on completion.
Rear brakes
12Remove the dust cap (if fitted) from the
rear left-hand caliper bleed screw. Open the
bleed screw one full turn.
13Fit the bleed tube over the bleed screw.
Place the other end of the tube in the bleed jar
(see illustration).
14Have the assistant depress the brake
pedal as far as it will go and hold it down.
Switch on the ignition: the hydraulic unit pump
will start and fluid will flow from the bleed
screw.
15When clean fluid, free of air bubbles,
emerges from the bleed screw, tighten the
bleed screw and have the assistant release the
pedal.
16Wait for the hydraulic unit pump to stop,
then top-up the reservoir and repeat the
procedure on the right-hand caliper. This time
the brake pedal should only be depressed
half-way.
17Switch off the ignition, top-up the reservoir
again and refit the reservoir cap. Refit the
bleed screw dust caps (if applicable).
Models from April 1992
18This operation can be carried out using the
information given above inparagraphs 1 to 10,
ignoring the reference to the hydraulic unit
pump and bearing in mind the following.
19Note that if only one circuit is disturbed it
will only be necessary to bleed that relevant
circuit on completion.20If the complete system is to be bled, it
should be done in the following order.
a)Left-hand front caliper.
b)Right-hand front brake caliper.
c)Left-hand rear caliper.
d)Right-hand rear caliper.
See Chapter 1, Section 44.
1Whenever the brake pads are inspected,
also inspect the brake discs for deep
scratches, scores or cracks. Light scoring is
normal and may be ignored. A cracked disc
must be renewed; scratches and scores can
sometimes be machined out, provided that the
thickness of the disc is not reduced below the
specified minimum.
2When the brake pads are renewed, or if
brake judder or snatch is noticed, check the
discs for run-out and thickness variation. (Note
that wheel bearing wear can cause disc run-
out.)
3Position a dial test indicator probe against
the disc wear face, approximately 15 mm (0.6 in)
in from the outer circumference. Zero the
indicator, rotate the disc and read the run-out
from the indicator(see illustration).Maximum
run-out is given in the Specifications. If a dial
test indicator is not available, use a fixed
pointer and feeler blades.
4Measure the thickness of the disc, using a
micrometer, in eight evenly spaced positions
around the disc. Maximum thickness variation
is given in the Specifications. Renew the disc if
the variation is out of limits.
1Slacken the front wheel nuts, raise and
support the vehicle and remove the relevant
front wheel.
2Remove the two bolts which hold the caliper
bracket to the stub axle carrier. Lift the caliper
5Front brake disc - removal and
refitting
4Brake discs - inspection
3Brake hydraulic system - fluid
renewal
2Brake hydraulic system -
bleeding
Braking system 10•3
10
2.13 Bleeding a rear brake caliper
4.3 Measuring brake disc run-out
Hydraulic fluid is an effective
paint stripper and will attack
plastics; if any is spilt, it
should be washed off
immediately using copious quantities of
fresh water.
procarmanuals.com

5Unscrew the hose from its union on the
caliper and remove it (see illustration).
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
then bleed the appropriate part of the
hydraulic system (Section 2). In the case of the
front hoses, check that they are not kinked or
twisted, and that they do not contact other
components when the steering is moved from
lock to lock. Reposition the hose in the
bracket if necessary.
7To remove a rigid pipe, simply undo the
union nuts at the hydraulic unit, hose bracket
or T-piece (see illustration). Free the pipe
from any retaining clips and remove it.
8New pipes can be bought ready-made, with
the unions attached. Some garages and motor
factors will make up pipes to order, using the
old pipe as a pattern. If purchasing proprietary
pipes made of copper alloy or similar material,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully
concerning bending, provision of extra clips
etc.
9Fit and secure the new pipe and tighten the
union nuts, bleed the appropriate part of the
hydraulic system (Section 2).
1The handbrake is normally self-adjusting in
use. Adjustment may be required to
compensate for cable stretch over a long
period, and is also necessary after fitting a
new cable.2Chock the front wheels, release the
handbrake and raise and support the rear of
the vehicle.
3Release the adjuster locknut from the
adjuster nut. Back off the adjuster nut,
slackening the cable until both handbrake
levers on the calipers are resting against their
stops (see illustration).
4Paint alignment marks between each
handbrake lever and the caliper body (see
illustration).
5Tighten the adjuster nut until either
handbrake lever just starts to move - as shown
by the alignment marks.
6Apply the handbrake and release it a few
times to equalise the cable runs.
7Tighten the locknut onto the adjuster nut
finger tight, then tighten a further three to six
clicks using self-locking pliers or a peg
spanner.
1Slacken the rear wheel nuts and chock the
front wheels. Raise and support the rear of the
vehicle and remove both rear wheels. Release
the handbrake.
2Slacken off the handbrake cable adjuster
locknut and adjuster nut.
3Free the cable from the equaliser yoke by
removing the circlip and clevis pin (see
illustration). Beware of self-tapping screws
protruding through the floor in this area.4Unhook the cable inner from the handbrake
levers on the calipers. Free the cable outer
from the caliper brackets (see illustration).
5Free the cable from the lower arm and
underbody brackets and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
but before refitting the rear wheels, adjust the
cable as described in the previous Section.
1Chock the front wheels and release the
handbrake. Raise and support the rear of the
vehicle.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Disconnect the handbrake cable equaliser
yoke by removing the circlip and clevis pin.
4Remove the centre console (Chapter 12).
5Remove the handbrake control lever boot.
6Disconnect the wiring from the handbrake
warning switch.
7Unbolt the handbrake lever and remove it,
complete with switch. Remove the switch if
necessary.
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the under-dash trim on the
passenger’s side.
2Push the module upwards and then swing it
forwards to release it from its clip.
25ABS module - removal and
refitting
24Handbrake control lever -
removal and refitting
23Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
22Handbrake cable - adjustment
Braking system 10•11
10
21.5 Disconnecting the hose from the
caliper21.7 Brake pipe union T-piece (arrowed)22.3 Handbrake cable adjuster
Locknut previously backed off adjuster nut
22.4 Alignment marks painted on lever and
body23.3 Circlip (arrowed) on equaliser yoke
Note protruding screws in transmission tunnel23.4 Handbrake cable outer attached to
caliper bracket
procarmanuals.com

The steering gear is of rack-and-pinion type.
Power assistance is standard on V6 models
and optional on others. The power-assisted
steering gear has a “variable ratio” effect
which increases the steering ratio about the
straight-ahead position: this provides quick
lock-to-lock action without the penalty of
over-responsiveness in open road driving.
The steering wheel is adjustable both up-
and-down and fore-and-aft. Both steering
column and shaft are designed to collapse
under impact. The steering shaft is connected
to the pinion by an intermediate shaft, which
has a universal joint at its upper end and a
flexible coupling at the lower end.
Front suspension is independent, of the
MacPherson strut type, with coil springs and
concentric telescopic shock absorbers. The
struts are attached to the tops of the stub axle
carriers, which are located at their lower ends
by balljoints incorporated in the lower
suspension arms. The lower suspension arms
pivot at their inner ends, where they are
attached to a central crossmember. The anti-
roll bar is attached to the rear of the arms and
serves to control fore-and-aft movement as
well as reducing roll.
Suspension geometry has been designed to
give good steering “feel”, resistance to pulling
caused by uneven braking effort or tyre
deflation, and (in the case of manual steering)
acceptably low steering wheel effort at parking
speeds. Only toe is adjustable in service.
The rear suspension is also independent. It
is of the semi-trailing arm type, with coil
springs and separate telescopic shock
absorbers. An optionally-available ride height
control system keeps the rear suspension
height constant, regardless of vehicle load.
Both front and rear wheel bearings are of a
special taper-roller type and require no
periodic adjustment in service.1Refer to Chapter 1, Section 35, to check the
power steering fluid level.
2If the fluid level falls so low that air enters
the pump, or after component renewal, the
system must be bled as follows.
3Remove the reservoir filler cap. Top-up with
clean fluid to the appropriate “cold” level. It is
important that the fluid is free of air bubbles,
so do not shake the container when topping-
up, and pour the fluid slowly.
4Disconnect the negative LT lead from the
ignition coil. Have an assistant crank the
engine on the starter in two second bursts, at
the same time turning the steering wheel from
lock to lock. Keep the reservoir topped up
whilst this is going on.
5When air bubbles no longer appear in the
fluid, stop the cranking. Reconnect the coil
negative lead and run the engine for a few
seconds, then stop it and check the level
again. Refit the filler cap.
6Run the vehicle for a few miles to warm up
the fluid and expel any remaining air, then stop
the engine and make a final fluid level check.
Manual steering
1Position the steering in the straight-ahead
position, then remove the ignition key so that
the steering is locked.
2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.
3Remove the pinch-bolt and nut which
secure the intermediate shaft flexible coupling
to the pinion shaft (see illustration).
4Slacken the track rod end locknuts by half a
turn each (see illustration).
5Remove the split pin from the track rod
balljoint nuts. Unscrew the nuts, break the
balljoint tapers using a separator tool anddisengage the track rod ends from the
steering arms.
6Remove the two bolts which secure the
steering gear to the crossmember. Lift out the
steering gear.
7Mark the positions of the track rod ends on
the track rods, using paint or sticky tape, so
that they can be refitted in approximately the
same positions. Unscrew the track rod ends
and locknuts.
8Commence refitting by screwing on the
locknuts and track rod ends, observing the
previously made position marks when
applicable.
9Bring the rack to the straight-ahead
position. Do this by counting the number of
turns of the pinion needed to go from lock to
lock, then applying half that number of turns
from full lock on one side.
10Offer the steering gear to the vehicle,
engaging the flexible coupling and loosely
fitting the securing bolts. Note that the master
spline on the pinion shaft mates with the
corresponding groove in the flexible coupling.
11Tighten the two steering gear-to-
crossmember bolts to the specified Stage 1
torque. Slacken the bolts and retighten to the
Stage 2 torque. Finally tighten the bolts
through the angle specified for Stage 3.
12Make sure that the flexible coupling and
pinion shaft are properly engaged, then fit the
pinch-bolt and nut. Tighten the pinch-bolt to
the specified torque.
3Steering gear - removal and
refitting
2Power steering fluid - level
check and bleeding1General information
Steering and suspension 11•3
11
3.3 Master spline and groove on pinion
shaft and coupling
Torque wrench settings (continued)Nmlbf ft
Rear suspension
Driveshaft stub axle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 to 290180 to 210
Final drive mounting to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Final drive mounting to rear cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 to 5030 to 37
Guide plate-to-floor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
Guide plate insulator bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 to 8851 to 65
Lower arm to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 9559 to 70
Brake anchor plate to lower arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 to 6438 to 47
Anti-roll bar bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 to 2515 to 18
Shock absorber mountings:
Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 to 9754 to 72
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 to 9250 to 68
Rear hub bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 to 10059 to 74
Wheels
Wheel nuts (steel or alloy wheels) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 10052 to 74
procarmanuals.com

to repair the affected area. New body panels
are not as expensive as most people think,
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to
fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large
areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this
also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minuteintervals, until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess can
be removed using a metal plane or file. From
then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40-
grade production paper, and finishing with a
400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork. Rinse
the repair area with clean water, until all of the
dust produced by the rubbing-down operation
has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in
a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter of
either entrusting repair work to a specialist in
this field, or renewing complete components.
Repair of such damage by the DIY owner is
not really feasible, owing to the cost of the
equipment and materials required for effecting
such repairs. The basic technique involves
making a groove along the line of the crack in
the plastic, using a rotary burr in a power drill.
The damaged part is then welded back
together, using a hot-air gun to heat up and
fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any
excess plastic is then removed, and the area
rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important
that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety of
different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time, the use of a universal paint was not
possible, owing to the complex range of
plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
Bodywork and fittings 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can be
mixed with cellulose thinners,
to form a thin paste which is
ideal for filling small holes.
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