warning FORD GRANADA 1985 Service User Guide

Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this Chapter
and to the warning that appears at the start of
Section 5 before proceeding. A hoist and lifting
tackle will be required for this operation.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Ensure that
there is enough working room beneath the
vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system.
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar mounting clamps
to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll
bar as far as possible.
10Proceed as described in paragraphs 30
and 31 of Section 5.
11Support the gearbox with a trolley jack,
using a block of wood between the jack and
the gearbox to spread the load.
12Unscrew the four nuts securing the
gearbox crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the gearbox, and remove
the crossmember. Note the position of the
earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and the exhaust mounting
bracket and heat shield (as applicable).
13Lower the gearbox slightly on the jack,
then remove the circlip, and disconnect the
speedometer drive cable from the gearbox.
14Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
lamp switch, and on models with fuel-injection,
disconnect the wiring from the vehicle speed
sensor mounted in the side of the gearbox.
15Slacken and remove the two bolts and
washers (one either side) securing the gear
linkage support bracket to the gearbox.
16Using a pin punch, drive out the roll pin
securing the gearchange rod to the gear linkage.
17Attach a hoist to the engine lifting brackets
located at the front and rear of the cylinder head,
and slowly take the weight of the engine. Arrange
the lifting tackle so that the engine/gearbox
assembly will assume a steep angle of
approximately 40°to 45°as it is being removed.
18To improve clearance in the engine
compartment when lifting the engine, unboltthe engine mounting brackets from the
cylinder block, and remove them.
19Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a dab
of paint or a marker pen, make alignment marks
between the intermediate shaft lower clamp
and steering gear pinion. Slacken and remove
the lower clamp bolt then disconnect the
intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
20Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
21Support the crossmember with a jack (do not
remove the jack from under the gearbox), then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to the
underbody. Remove the crossmember securing
bolts, and carefully lower the crossmember to
allow sufficient room for the engine sump to clear
the steering rack and crossmember as the
engine/gearbox assembly is removed.
22Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
engine/gearbox assembly.
23Raise the engine/gearbox, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack which is
supporting the gearbox.
24Place a suitable rod across the vehicle
underbody to support the gear linkage support
bracket whilst the gearbox is removed.
25Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly using
the hoist and the trolley jack, until the
assembly can be lifted from the vehicle. Take
care not to damage surrounding components.
26If the vehicle is to be moved, with the
engine/gearbox assembly removed, temporarily
refit the suspension crossmember and the anti-
roll bar to the underbody, and reconnect the
steering column to the intermediate shaft.
27To separate the engine from the gearbox,
proceed as follows.
28Remove the starter motor.
29Support the engine and gearbox
horizontally on blocks of wood.
30Unscrew the engine-to-gearbox bolts,
noting the locations of the bolts, and the
positions of the earth strap and any wiring clips
attached to the bolts. Recover any shims fitted
between the sump and the gearbox when
removing the lower engine-to-gearbox bolts.
31Unscrew the bolt from the engine adapter
plate.
32Pull the engine and gearbox apart, taking
care not to strain the gearbox input shaft. It
may be necessary to rock the units slightly to
separate them.
Note: Refer to Part A, Section 4 of this
Chapter and to the warning that appears at the
start of Section 5 before proceeding. A
suitable hoist and lifting tackle will be required
for this operation. Any suspected faults in the
automatic transmission should be referred to a
Ford dealer or automatic transmissionspecialist before removal of unit, as the
specialist fault diagnosis equipment is
designed to operate with the transmission in
the vehicle.
1Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to 21
of Section 5.
2Unscrew the securing bolt, and disconnect
the earth lead from the rear left-hand side of
the cylinder head.
3Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
4Jack up the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands (see “Jacking”). Ensure that
there is enough working room beneath the
vehicle.
5To improve access, disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the manifold and remove the
exhaust system .
6Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
7On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
release the securing clips and withdraw the
exhaust heat shield from under the vehicle for
access to the propeller shaft.
8Remove the propeller shaft.
9Where applicable, bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the two bolts in each case
securing the two anti-roll bar mounting clamps
to the vehicle underbody. Lower the anti-roll
bar as far as possible.
10Support the transmission with a trolley
jack, using a block of wood between the jack
and the transmission to spread the load.
11Unscrew the four bolts securing the
transmission crossmember to the vehicle
underbody. Unscrew the central bolt securing
the crossmember to the transmission, and
remove the crossmember. Note the position of
the earth strap, where applicable. Recover the
mounting cup, and the exhaust mounting
bracket and heat shield (as applicable).
12Lower the transmission slightly on the jack.
13Unscrew the unions and disconnect the
fluid cooler pipes from the transmission. Plug
the open ends of the pipes and the
transmission to prevent dirt ingress and fluid
leakage. Where applicable, detach the fluid
cooler pipe bracket from the engine mounting
bracket, and move it to one side.
14Remove the two clips securing the
selector rod, and detach the selector rod from
the manual selector lever, and the selector
lever on the transmission.
15Disconnect the wiring from the starter
inhibitor switch, downshift solenoid, lock-up
clutch, reversing lamp switch, and where
applicable, the 3rd/4th gearchange solenoid.
16Remove the securing screw, and
disconnect the speedometer cable (where
fitted) from the transmission extension
housing. Plug the opening in the transmission
to prevent dirt ingress.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 17 to 26
of Section 7, substituting transmission for
gearbox and ignoring paragraph 24.
18To separate the engine from the
transmission, proceed as follows.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Support the engine and transmission
horizontally on blocks of wood.
8Engine/automatic
transmission assembly -
removal and separation
7Engine/manual gearbox
assembly - removal and
separation
2B•6DOHCengine
procarmanuals.com

together, guide the torque converter studs
through the holes in the driveplate. When the
engine is positioned flush with the engine
adapter plate and the transmission housing,
check that the torque converter is free to move
axially a small amount before refitting and
tightening the engine-to-transmission bolts.
6Do not tighten the torque converter-to-
driveplate nuts until the lower engine-to-
transmission bolts have been fitted and
tightened.
7Ensure that the roadwheels and the steering
wheel are in the straight-ahead position then
align the marks made on removal and
reconnect the intermediate shaft to the
steering gearing. Tighten the clamp bolt to the
specified torque.
8Reconnect the selector rod and adjust as
described in Chapter 7, PartB.
9Refit the propeller shaft.
10Refit the exhaust system.
11Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil.
12Check the throttle cable adjustment. Where
necessary, also adjust the speed control cable
in the same way so that there is only a small
amount of slack present in the cable.
13Reconnect the coolant hoses to the water
pump housing.
14Fill the cooling system.
15Check and if necessary top-up the
transmission fluid level.
16Tighten all fixings to the specified torque,
where applicable.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 23
of this Chapter but note that on certain
models, it may be necessary to unbolt the
engine mounting brackets from the cylinder
block to allow sufficient clearance to remove
the mountings.
1Refer to Part A, Section 8 of this Chapter,
paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive.
2A selection of splined and Torx sockets will
be required to remove many of the bolts when
dismantling the engine.
3Before dismantling the main engine
components, the following externally mounted
ancillary components can be removed.
a)Inlet manifold (and carburettor, where
applicable).
b)Exhaust manifold.
c)Alternator.
d)Water pump, and thermostat.
e)Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner.
f)Distributor cap, HT leads and spark plugs.
g)Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
h)Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
i)Oil filter.
j)Dipstick.
k)Engine mounting brackets (if not already
done).
l)Crankcase ventilation pipe and hoses.m)Clutch.
n)Alternator mounting bracket.
o)Air conditioning compressor mounting
bracket (where applicable).
p)Engine lifting brackets.
Note: A puller will be required to remove the
crankshaft pulley. A new crankshaft pulley bolt,
a new timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly, new upper and lower timing chain
cover gaskets and a new camshaft cover
gasket and reinforcing sleeve sealing rings
must be used on refitting.
1If the engine is in the car, carry out thefollowing operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
d)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
e)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
f)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 11
inclusive of Section 18 (see illustration).
3Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt.
15Timing chain and sprockets -
removal and refitting
14Engine dismantling - general
information
13Engine mountings - renewal
2B•8DOHCengine
1 Upper timing chain guide
2 Exhaust camshaft sprocket
3 Timing chain
4 Lower timing chain guide
5 Crankshaft sprocket (double)
6 Crankshaft
7 Oil pump chain tensioner
8 Oil pump drive chain
9 Oil pump10 Oil pressure relief valve
11 Oil passage to timing chain tensioner
plunger
12 Plug
13 Timing chain tensioner plunger
14 Timing chain tensioner sprocket
15 Timing chain tensioner arm
16 Inlet camshaft sprocket
17 Copper chain links
15.2 Timing chain, oil pump drive chain and associated components
procarmanuals.com

the chain. Secure the chain using a cable-tie
through two of the chain links to prevent it
from dropping off the crankshaft sprocket.
9Using a suitable pair of pliers, extract the
circlip from the chain tensioner arm pivot pin,
taking care not to drop it into the timing case,
then withdraw the pivot pin from the tensioner
arm. If the pivot pin proves difficult to
withdraw, an M6 bolt can be screwed into the
end to facilitate removal (see illustration).
10Lift the tensioner arm from the timing case.
11Lift the tensioner plunger assembly from the
cylinder head, and discard it (see illustration).12Take note of the markings on the camshaft
bearing caps, then progressively unscrew the
bearing cap securing nuts.
13Remove the bearing cap securing nuts,
then lift off the camshaft oil spray bars, and
the timing chain guide plate(see illustration).
14Lift off the bearing caps, and then lift out
the two camshafts (see illustrations).
15Withdraw the cam followers from their
locations in the cylinder head, keeping them in
order so that they can be refitted in theiroriginal locations (see illustration). It is
advisable to store the cam followers upright in
an oil bath until they are to be refitted. Ensure
that the depth of oil is sufficient to fully cover
the cam followers.
16Working at the front of the cylinder head,
unscrew the three small M8 cylinder head
bolts which are accessible through the timing
case(see illustration).
17Working in the reverse order to that shown
for tightening the cylinder head bolts(see
illustration), progressively loosen the
remaining cylinder head bolts, and withdraw
them from the cylinder head.
18Lift the cylinder head from the block. If the
cylinder head is stuck, tap it free with a soft-
faced mallet. Do not insert a lever into the joint
between the cylinder head and block, as this
may result in damage to the mating faces.
Place the cylinder head on blocks of wood to
prevent damage to the valves.
19Recover the gasket, and the locating
dowels if they are loose, noting the positions
of the locating dowels.
20Commence refitting as follows.
21Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 piston is
approximately 20.0 mm (0.8 in) before TDC.
This precaution will prevent possible contact
between the valves and pistons.
22Make sure that the mating faces of the
cylinder block and cylinder head are perfectly
clean, then refit the locating dowels (where
applicable) and locate a new gasket over the
2B•12DOHCengine
18.9 Removing the chain tensioner arm
pivot pin circlip
18.15 Withdrawing a cam follower
18.14a Lifting off a camshaft bearing cap
18.16 M8 cylinder head bolts (arrowed)
located at front of cylinder head
18.14b Lifting out the exhaust camshaft
18.17 Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence
A Long M8 boltsB Short M8 bolt
18.11 Lifting the chain tensioner plunger
assembly from the cylinder head18.13 Lifting off a camshaft oil spray bar
The inlet camshaft is normally
identified by a green paint
mark. If necessary, identify
the camshafts so that they
can be refitted in their correct positions.
Warning: Take care when removing
the plunger assembly; injury could
result if the piston flies out. A new
timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly should be installed on refitting.
procarmanuals.com

dowels. Note that the gasket can only fit in one
position (see illustration). Do not use jointing
compound.
23Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket,
making sure that the locating dowels engage.
24Oil the threads of the new main cylinder
head bolts, and insert them into their locations
in the cylinder head.
25Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see
illustration)and in the four stages given in the
Specifications.
26Insert the three smaller M8 cylinder head
bolts through the top of the timing case (see
illustration)and tighten them to the specified
torque. Note that new bolts must be used, and
that they should be of the latest type with
hexagonal heads.
27Lubricate the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head, and the cam followers
themselves, then insert the cam followers into
their original locations in the cylinder head.
28Lubricate the camshaft bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head and the bearing caps.
29Lubricate the surfaces of the camshafts,
then carefully lay the camshafts in their original
positions in the cylinder head. Position the
camshafts with the slots in their front ends
pointing away from each other.
30Fit the bearing caps L1, L3, L5, R1, R3,
and R5 (see illustration), then lay the
camshaft oil spray bars and the timing chain
guide plate in position over the studs (see
illustrations).31Carefully tighten the bearing cap securing
nuts by hand in the following stages to lower
the camshafts into position.
Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L1 and R1
by half-a-turn (180°)
Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L5 and R5
by half-a-turn (180°)
Tighten the nuts for bearing caps L3 and R3
by half-a-turn (180°)
Continue to tighten the nuts in the small
stages given until the bearing caps contact the
cylinder head.
32Fit bearing caps L2, L4, R2 and R4, and
tap them into position on the cylinder head
using light taps from a soft-faced mallet.
Tighten the securing nuts evenly by hand.
33Tighten all the bearing cap nuts to the
specified torque in half turn stages, using the
following sequence.
L1 and R1
L5 and R5
L3 and R3
L2 and L4
R2 and R4
34Fit a newchain tensioner plunger
assembly to the housing in the cylinder head
with the piston uppermost. Before fitting the
new plunger assembly, take note of the
position of the piston (see illustration). The
assembly is normally supplied with the piston
protruding slightly from the cylinder, or slightlybelow the top surface of the cylinder (A). If the
new assembly is supplied with the piston
partially unlatched (B), or fully unlatched with
the latching ring visible (C), it must not be used.
35Locate the chain tensioner arm in position,
then insert the pivot pin, and secure it with the
circlip. Take care not to drop the circlip into
the timing case.
36Release the cable-tie securing the timing
chain, and lay the chain over the exhaust
camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
previously on the chain and sprocket, so that
the timing chain is taught on the exhaust side
of the engine.
37Fit the sprocket to the exhaust camshaft,
with the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with
the exhaust camshaft sprocket timing mark in
line with the top edge of the cylinder head,
pointing to the exhaust side of the engine, see
paragraph 4). If necessary, use a pair of pliers
on one of the unmachined sections of the
camshaft to turn the camshaft to the TDC
position. Take care not to damage the
machined surfaces of the camshaft.
38With the sprocket fitted, fit the spacer to
the end of the camshaft, and tighten the
securing bolt finger-tight (see illustration).
39Lay the timing chain over the inlet
DOHCengine 2B•13
2B
18.22 Fitting a new cylinder head gasket18.30a Camshaft bearing cap tightening
sequence18.30b Camshaft oil spray bars correctly
fitted
18.30c Fitting the timing chain guide plate
18.34 Timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly
A Piston retracted - plunger assembly useable
B Piston partially unlatched - discard plunger
assembly
C Latching ring (1) visible - discard plunger
assembly
18.38 Spacer and sprocket securing bolt
fitted to end of camshaft, with camshaft in
TDC position (timing marks arrowed)
Warning: Take care when
installing the plunger assembly,
as there is a risk of injury if the
piston flies out.
procarmanuals.com

9Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
10The crankshaft and bearings can be
examined and if necessary renovated.
11Commence refitting as follows(see
illustration).
12Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
14Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked, but if oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
15Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
16Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing caps
in their correct locations, with the arrows on the
caps pointing towards the front of the engine.
17Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
18Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
19Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with newcomponents, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
20Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
21Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
22Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
23Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
24Install the new oil seal with reference to
Section 24.
25With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
26Refit the pistons and connecting rods as
described previously in this Chapter.
27Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 27
of this Chapter, noting that the production
bearing undersizes are indicated as follows.
Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft —
standard diameter main bearing journals.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
— main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.
Green spot on counterweight — big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize.
Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter,
but note that the connecting rod bolts should
be renewed on reassembly, and when
renewing the cylinder head bolts, the latest
type bolts with hexagonal heads should
always be used.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 35
of this Chapter, noting the following points.
a)If the cylinder head has been removed,
pay particular attention to the note at the
beginning of Section 18.
b)If removed during any dismantling
operations, new flywheel driveplate bolts
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
c)After reassembling the main engine
components, refer to paragraph 3 of
Section 14 and refit the ancillary
components listed.Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter,
but note that when the engine is first started, a
metallic tapping noise may be heard. This is
due to the timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly taking time to pressurize with oil,
resulting in a temporarily slack chain. The
noise should stop after a short time, once oil
pressure has built up.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
35Compression test -
description and interpretation
34Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
33Engine reassembly - general
information
32Examination and renovation -
general information
31Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2B•18DOHCengine
30.11 Crankshaft main bearings and
associated components
1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle
4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil groove
6 Bearing shell with oil groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder block
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 2 Part C:
2.4, 2.8 and 2.9 litre V6 engines
Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .22
Camshaft and intermediate plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Camshaft and intermediate plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Crankshaft and bearings - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cylinder bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Cylinder heads - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Cylinder heads - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Cylinder heads - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine dismantling - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Examination and renovation - general infomation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil pump - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . .27
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .25
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rocker shaft - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . . . . . . .20
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Tappets and pushrods - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Timing cover and drive - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Timing cover and drive - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
2.8 litre engine
General
Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PRE
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.0 (3.66)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.5 (2.70)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2792 (170)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.5 to 12.5 bar (167 to 181 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 @ 5800
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 @ 3000
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres (7.5 pints) approx
Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar
Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar
Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar
2C•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2C
procarmanuals.com

27The inlet manifold bolts should be
retightened to the specified torque in the correct
sequence. This will mean disconnecting the air
hoses from the throttle valve housing, the
vacuum hose from the left-hand rocker cover,
and the wiring connector from the idle speed
control valve and throttle valve potentiometer.
Remove the plenum chamber, place it to one
side, then release the fuel rail bolts but do not
disconnect the fuel pipes. It may also be
necessary to remove the distributor again to
gain access to one of the bolts.
See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Refer to Section 7 and refit the items listed.
2If the oil cooler and its threaded bush were
removed, refit them as follows (see
illustration).
3Screw the new bush into the cylinder block.
Apply Omnifit Activator “Rapid” (to Ford
specification SSM-99B-9000-AA) to the
exposed threads of the bush and to the inside
of the threaded sleeve.
4Apply one drop of Omnifit Sealant “300
Rapid” (to Ford specification SSM-4G-9003-
AA) to the leading threads of the bush.Do not
use more than one drop, otherwise sealant
may get into the lubrication circuit.
5Fit the cooler, using a new gasket, and
secure with the threaded bush. Make sure that
the coolant pipes are positioned at the correct
angle (see illustration),then tighten the
threaded sleeve to the specified torque.
6Fit a new oil filter element, oiling its sealing
ring prior to installation. Tighten the filter
approximately three-quarters of a turn beyond
the point where the seal contacts the cooler
face. Do not use any tool to tighten the filter.
Refer to Part A, Section 49, paragraphs 1 to
9 of this Chapter. Before starting the engine,
refer to the following Section.1Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter.
2When conventional (hexagon-headed)
cylinder head bolts are fitted, they must be re-
tightened after the engine has warmed up.
Proceed as follows.
3Stop the engine and remove the rocker covers.
4Working in the sequence used for
tightening, slacken one cylinder head bolt a
quarter turn, then re-tighten it to the Stage 4
specified torque. Repeat in sequence for all
the cylinder head bolts.
5Tighten the inlet manifold bolts.
6Check the valve clearances.
7Refit the rocker covers and other disturbed
components.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
43Compression test -
description and interpretation
42Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
41Engine - refitting
40Ancillary components - refitting
39Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
V6 engines 2C•21
2C
40.2 Oil cooler components
A Threaded bush
B Seal
C CoolerD Sleeve
E Oil filter
40.5 Oil cooler installation angle
A Rear face of cylinder block
procarmanuals.com

Cooling system
The cooling system is of pressurised type
and includes a front mounted crossflow
radiator, belt-driven water pump, temperature-
sensitive thermo-viscous fan (on DOHC
models, an electrically-operated cooling fan is
fitted, operated by a switch in the thermostat
housing), wax type thermostat, and an
expansion and degas tank.
The radiator matrix is of copper and brass
construction and the end tanks are of plastic.
On automatic transmission models the right-
hand side end tank incorporates the
transmission oil cooler.
The thermostat is located behind the water
outlet elbow at the front of the cylinder head
on OHCmodels, and on the front of the water
pump on V6 models. Its purpose is to ensure
rapid engine warm-up by restricting the flow of
coolant in the engine when cold, and also to
assist in regulating the normal operating
temperature of the engine.
The expansion tank incorporates a pressure
cap which effectively pressurises the cooling
system as the coolant temperature rises,
thereby increasing the boiling point of the
coolant. The tank also has a further degas
function. Any accumulation of air bubbles in
the coolant, in particular in the thermostat
housing and the radiator, is returned to the
tank and released in the air space thus
maintaining the efficiency of the coolant.
On models fitted with the auxiliary warning
system, the expansion tank contains a level
sensor which operates a warning light if the
coolant level falls significantly.
When the engine is started from cold, the
water pump circulates coolant around the
cylinder block, cylinder head(s) and inlet
manifold. The warm coolant passes through
the automatic choke housing (when
applicable) and through the heater matrix
before returning to the engine. As the coolant
expands, the level in the expansion tank rises.
Circulation of coolant through the radiator is
prevented while the thermostat is shut. When
the coolant reaches the predeterminedtemperature the thermostat opens and hot
water passes through the top hose to the top
of the radiator. As the water circulates down
through the radiator, it is cooled by the
passage of air past the radiator when the car is
in forward motion, supplemented by the action
of the thermo-viscous fan when necessary.
Having reached the bottom of the radiator, the
water is now cool and the cycle is repeated.
Circulation of water continues through the
expansion tank, inlet manifold and heater at all
times; the heater temperature control being by
an air flap.
The thermo-viscous fan is controlled by the
temperature of air behind the radiator. When
the air temperature reaches a predetermined
level, a bi-metallic coil commences to open a
valve within the unit and silicon fluid is fed
through a system of vanes. Half of the vanes
are driven directly by the water pump and the
remaining half are connected to the fan blades.
The vanes are arranged so that drive is
transmitted to the fan blades in relation to the
drag or viscosity of the fluid, and this in turn
depends on ambient temperature and engine
speed. The fan is therefore only operated when
required, and compared with direct drive type
fan represents a considerable improvement in
fuel economy, drivebelt wear and fan noise.
Air conditioning
Air conditioning is fitted as standard on
Scorpio models and is optionally available on
some other models. In conjunction with the
heater, the system enables any reasonable air
temperature to be achieved inside the car, it
also reduces the humidity of the incoming air,
aiding demisting even when cooling is not
required.
The refrigeration side of the air conditioning
system functions in a similar way to a
domestic refrigerator. A compressor, belt-
driven from the crankshaft pulley, draws
refrigerant in its gaseous phase from an
evaporator. The compressed refrigerant
passes through a condenser where it loses
heat and enters its liquid phase. After
dehydration the refrigerant returns to the
evaporator where it absorbs heat from air
passing over the evaporator fins. The
refrigerant becomes a gas again and the cycle
is repeated.Various subsidiary controls and sensors
protect the system against excessive
temperature and pressures. Additionally,
engine idle speed is increased when the
system is in use to compensate for the
additional load imposed by the compressor.
Precautions
Antifreeze mixture
Antifreeze mixture is poisonous. Keep it out
of reach of children and pets. Wash splashes
off skin and clothing with plenty of water.
Wash splashes off vehicle paintwork to avoid
discolouration.
Antifreeze/water mixture must be renewed
every two years to preserve its anti-corrosive
properties. In climates where antifreeze
protection is unnecessary, a corrosion
inhibitor may be used instead - consult a Ford
dealer. Never run the engine for long periods
with plain water as coolant. Only use the
specified antifreeze, as inferior brands may not
contain the necessary corrosion inhibitors, or
may break down at high temperatures.
Antifreeze containing methanol is particularly
to be avoided, as the methanol evaporates.
The specified mixture is 45 to 50%
antifreeze and 50 to 55% clean soft water (by
volume). Mix the required quantity in a clean
container.
Air conditioning refrigerant
Although the refrigerant is not itself toxic, in
the presence of a naked flame (or a lighted
cigarette) it forms a highly toxic gas. Liquid
refrigerant spilled on the skin will cause
frostbite. If refrigerant enters the eyes, rinse
them with a dilute solution of boric acid and
seek medical advice immediately.
In view of the above points, and of the need
for specialised equipment for evacuating and
recharging the system, any work which
requires the disconnection of a refrigerant line
must be left to a specialist.
Do not allow refrigerant lines to be exposed
to temperatures above 110°C (230°F) - eg
during welding or paint drying operations and
do not operate the air conditioning system if it
is known to be short of refrigerant, or further
damage may result.
1General information and
precautions
3•2Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Radiator lower mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 126 to 9
Thermostat housing bolts:
SOHC, DOHC and 2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2013 to 15
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Water pump bolts:
SOHC, M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 16
SOHC, M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 to 4226 to 31
DOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2816 to 21
2.8 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
Water pump/alternator drivebelt tensioner bolt (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . .70 to 9752 to 72
Fan-to-viscous clutch bolts:
SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2313 to 17
Fan shroud bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Cylinder block drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2516 to 18
procarmanuals.com

24Unbolt and remove the regulator from the
fuel rail. Remove the sealing O-ring and
discard it; a new one must be used on
refitting.
25Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure applying a smear of clean engine oil
to the new regulator O-ring. On models
equipped with a late level regulator, ensure
that the return pipe is securely held in position
by the retaining collar.
26On completion, switch the ignition on and
off five times without cranking the engine to
pressurise the fuel system.
27With the system pressurised check all
disturbed fuel unions for signs of leakage.
1The potentiometer is located on the right-
hand side of the engine compartment, behind
the MAP sensor.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screw, then withdraw
the potentiometer and disconnect the wiring
plug.
4Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion adjust the idle mixture.1On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines, disconnect the
battery.
2Disconnect the switch wiring connector.
3Slacken and remove the switch from the
fuel rail (see illustration).
4Refitting is a reverse of removal, tightening
the switch to the specified torque setting.
Carburettor models
All engines except DOHC
1Remove the carburettor or, if preferred, the
final removal of the carburettor from the
manifold can be left until the manifold has
been removed).
2Drain the cooling system.
3Disconnect the coolant and vacuum pipes
from the manifold, noting their positions if
there is any possibility of confusion.
4Disconnect the wires from the manifold
heater and the coolant temperature sender
unit.
5Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the manifold.
6Unscrew the six nuts and bolts which
secure the manifold and withdraw it. Recover
the gasket.
7Before refitting the manifold, make sure that
the mating surfaces are perfectly clean.
8Apply a bead of sealant at least 5 mm (0.2 in)
wide around the central coolant aperture on
both sides of a new gasket.
9Place the gasket over the studs, then fit the
manifold and secure it with the six nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly to the
specified torque.
10The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Refill the cooling
system on completion.
DOHC engine
11Disconnect the battery negative lead.
12Drain the cooling system.13Remove the air cleaner.
14Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing and the inlet manifold,
noting the locations to assist with refitting.
15Disconnect the fuel supply and return
hoses from the carburettor. Plug their ends to
minimise petrol spillage.
16Release the coolant hose from the bracket
under the automatic choke housing.
17Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, and move them to one side.
18Disconnect all relevant wiring and vacuum
pipes from the carburettor, thermostat
housing and inlet manifold, noting the
locations as an aid to refitting.
19Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the inlet manifold.
20Disconnect the throttle cable from the
throttle linkage.
21Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant wires, pipes and hoses have been
disconnected to facilitate removal of the
manifold.
22Unscrew the ten bolts and two nuts
securing the manifold to the cylinder head.
23Lift the manifold clear of the cylinder head
and recover the gasket.
24Recover the two plastic spark plug spacers
from the recesses in the cylinder head.
25If desired, the carburettor can be removed
from the manifold by unscrewing the securing
screws.
26Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.
a)Ensure that all mating faces are clean and
renew all gaskets.
b)Ensure that the spark plug spacers are in
position in the cylinder head recesses
before refitting the manifold.
c)Tighten all manifold securing nuts and
bolts progressively to the specified torque.
d)Make sure that all hoses, pipes and wires
are securely reconnected in their original
positions. Replace all crimp-type hose
clips (where fitted) with standard worm
drive hose clips.
e)On completion, refill the cooling system,
check the adjustment of the throttle cable,
then check, and if necessary adjust the
idle speed and mixture.
Fuel-injection models
SOHC engine
27Disconnect the battery negative lead.
28Drain the cooling system.
29Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
manifold. The number of pipes varies
according to equipment. Label the pipes if
necessary (see illustration).
30Disconnect the fuel-injection harness
multi-plugs at the bulkhead end of the
manifold (see illustration).
31Disconnect the oil pressure warning light
sender wire from below the manifold.
32Release the hose clips and move the
airflow meter-to-manifold trunking clear of the
manifold.
40Inlet manifold - removal and
refitting
39Fuel rail temperature switch -
removal and refitting
38Mixture adjustment
potentiometer - removal and
refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•19
4
39.3 Fuel rail components
A Fuel pressure regulator
B Fuel temperature switch
C Fuel rail
D Fuel injectors
40.29 Manifold vacuum pipe T-piece
(arrowed)40.30 Fuel-injection wiring harness plugs
procarmanuals.com

engine coolant temperature sensor. The
crankshaft speed/position sensor is activated
by a toothed disc on the rear of the crankshaft,
inside the cylinder block. The disc has 35
equally spaced teeth (one every 10°), with a
gap in the 36th position. The gap is used by
the sensor to determine the crankshaft
position relative to Top Dead Centre (TDC) of
No 1 piston.
The ignition advance is a function of the
ESC II module, and is controlled by vacuum.
The module is connected to the carburettor by
a vacuum pipe, and a transducer in the
module translates the vacuum signal into an
electrical voltage. From the vacuum signal, the
module determines engine load; engine speed
and temperature are determined from the
crankshaft speed/position sensor and the
engine coolant temperature sensor. The
module has a range of spark advance settings
stored in the memory, and a suitable setting is
selected for the relevant engine speed, load
and temperature. The degree of advance can
thus be constantly varied to suit the prevailing
engine speed and load conditions.
On DOHC fuel-injected engines, a
development of the EEC IV (Electronic Engine
Control IV) engine management system is
used to control both the ignition and fuel-
injection systems. The EEC IV module receives
information from a crankshaft speed/position
sensor (the same as that fitted to the
carburettor models), a throttle position sensor,
an engine coolant temperature sensor, a fuel
temperature sensor, an air charge temperature
sensor, a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor, and a vehicle speed sensor (mounted
on the gearbox). Additionally, on models with
a catalytic converter, an additional input is
supplied to the EEC IV module from an
exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor. On
models with automatic transmission,
additional sensors are fitted to the
transmission to inform the EEC IV module
when the transmission is in neutral, and when
the downshift is being operated.
The module provides outputs to control the
fuel pump, fuel-injectors, idle speed, ignition
system and automatic transmission .
Additionally, on models with air conditioning,
the EEC IV module disengages the air
conditioning compressor clutch when starting
the engine or when the engine is suddenly
accelerated. On models fitted with a catalytic
converter, the EEC IV module also controls the
carbon canister purge solenoid valve.
Using the inputs from the various sensors,
the EEC IV module computes the optimum
ignition advance, and fuel-injector pulse
duration to suit the prevailing engine
conditions.
On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines, the system
operates in much the same way as that fitted
to the DOHC fuel-injected engine, noting the
following points.
a)There is no crankshaft speed/position
sensor.
b)The vehicle speed sensor is only fitted to
models equipped with a catalytic
converter.Precautions
ESC II module
Although it will tolerate all normal under-
bonnet conditions, the ESC II module may be
adversely affected by water entry during
steam cleaning or pressure washing of the
engine bay.
If cleaning the engine bay, therefore, take
care not to direct jets of water or steam at the
ESC II module. If this cannot be avoided,
remove the module completely, and protect its
multi-plug with a plastic bag.
Ignition system HT voltage
Take care to avoid receiving electric shocks
from the HT side of the ignition system. Do not
handle HT leads, or touch the distributor or
coil, when the engine is running. When tracing
faults in the HT system, use well insulated
tools to manipulate live leads. Electronic
ignition HT voltage could prove fatal.
Electronic ignition systems
General
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual, available from the publishers of this
manual.
It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system, to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in Safety first!at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system.Even with the
battery disconnected, capacitive discharge
could occur if a component’s live terminal is
earthed through a metal object. This could
cause a shock or nasty burn.
Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry, could be irreparably
damaged.
If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect thebatteries positive-to-positiveand negative-to-
negative(see “Jump starting”). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, the
alternator, any electrical wiring, or any test
instruments, when the engine is running.
Do not allow the engine to turn the alternator
when the alternator is not connected.
Never test for alternator output by “flashing”
the output lead to earth.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.
Before using electric-arc welding equipment
on the car, disconnect the battery, alternator,
and components such as the fuel-
injection/ignition electronic control unit, to
protect them from the risk of damage.
Refer to Chapter 13
1In normal use the battery should not require
charging from an external source, unless the
vehicle is laid up for long periods, when it
should be recharged every six weeks or so. If
vehicle use consists entirely of short runs in
darkness it is also possible for the battery to
become discharged. Otherwise, a regular
need for recharging points to a fault in the
battery or elsewhere in the charging system.
2There is no need to disconnect the battery
from the vehicle wiring when using a battery
charger, but switch off the ignition and leave
the bonnet open.
3Domestic battery chargers (up to about 6
amps output) may safely be used overnight
without special precautions. Make sure that
the charger is set to deliver 12 volts before
connecting it. Connect the leads (red or
positive to the positive terminal, black or
negative to the negative terminal) before
switching the charger on at the mains.
4When charging is complete, switch off at
the mains beforedisconnecting the charger
from the battery. Remember that the battery
will be giving off hydrogen gas, which is
potentially explosive.
5Charging at a higher rate should only be
carried out under carefully controlled
conditions. Very rapid or “boost” charging
should be avoided if possible, as it is liable to
cause permanent damage to the battery
through overheating.
6During any sort of charging, battery
electrolyte temperature should never exceed
38°C (100°F). If the battery becomes hot, or
the electrolyte is effervescing vigorously,
charging should be stopped.
3Battery - charging
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5
Warning. The voltages produced
by the electronic ignition system
are considerably higher than those
produced by conventional
systems. Extreme care must be taken when
working on the system with the ignition
switched on. Persons with surgically-
implanted cardiac pacemaker devices
should keep well clear of the ignition
circuits, components and test equipment.
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