rear view mirror FORD GRANADA 1985 Service Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1985, Model line: GRANADA, Model: FORD GRANADA 1985Pages: 255, PDF Size: 14.98 MB
Page 11 of 255
1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking”).
2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels, using a mirror and a torch through the
aperture in the rear face of the caliper. If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified, all four pads (on both front wheels)
must be renewed.
3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear pads. The pads can
be viewed through the top of the caliper after
removing the spring clip. If any one pad is
worn down to the minimum specified, all four
pads (on both rear wheels) must be renewed.
4For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5At the same interval, check the function of
the brake fluid level warning light. Chock the
wheels, release the handbrake and switch on
the ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the
cap.
6On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected but what
you are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapter(s) in this manual.
2Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all
cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in
good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
4Carefully check the condition of all coolant,
fuel and brake hoses. Renew any hose which
is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will
show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure
the hoses to the system components. Hoseclips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting
in leaks. If wire type hose clips are used, it
may be a good idea to replace them with
screw-type clips.
5With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler neck
and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a
rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due
to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.
6Similarly, inspect all brake hoses and metal
pipes. If any damage or deterioration is
discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the
necessary repair work has been carried out.
Renew any damaged sections of hose or pipe.
7Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and
pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9Where applicable, check the condition of
the oil cooler hoses and pipes.
10Check the condition of all exposed wiring
harnesses.
11Also check the engine and transmission
components for signs of fluid leaks.
Periodically check the belts for fraying or
other damage. If evident, renew the belt.
If the belts become dirty, wipe them with a
damp cloth using a little detergent only.
Check the tightness of the anchor bolts and
if they are ever disconnected, make quite sure
that the original sequence of fitting of washers,
bushes and anchor plates is retained.With the vehicle raised on a hoist or
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking”),
check the exhaust system for signs of leaks,
corrosion or damage and check the rubber
mountings for condition and security. Where
damage or corrosion are evident, renew the
system complete or in sections, as applicable,
using the information given in Chapter 4.
With the wheels on the ground, slacken
each wheel nut by a quarter turn, then
retighten it immediately to the specified
torque.
Remove and clean the oil filler cap of any
sludge build-up using paraffin.
Inspect the vent hose for blockage or
damage. A blocked hose can cause a build-up
of crankcase pressure, which in turn can
cause oil leaks.
An accurate tachometer (rev. counter) will
be needed to adjust the idle speed. The
engine must be at operating temperature, the
air cleaner element must be clean and the
vacuum hoses fitted, and the engine valve
clearances must be correct. The ignition
system must also be in good condition.
Connect the tachometer to the engine as
instructed by the manufacturers. Start the
engine and allow it to idle. Read the speed
from the tachometer and compare it with the
value in the Specifications of Chapter 4
(Pierburg 2V carburettor).
If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle
speed adjustment screw. Turn the screw
clockwise to increase the speed, and anti-
clockwise to decrease the speed (see
illustration).
1.8 litre engine
1An exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) or other
proprietary device will be needed to adjust the
idle mixture.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the air cleaner element must be
clean and the vacuum hoses fitted, and the
16Idle mixture check -
carburettor models only
15Idle speed check - 1.8 litre
SOHC
14Oil filler cap check
13Roadwheel security check
12Exhaust system check
11Seat belt check10Fluid leak check
9Front and rear brake pad
check
1•10Every 6000 miles or 6 months
15.3 Idle adjustment screws - Pierburg 2V
carburettor
A Idle speedB Idle mixture
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Page 184 of 255
Estate
19This procedure is the same as described
above for the Saloon models noting that it is
necessary to remove the luggage
compartment side trim panel to gain access to
the light cluster retaining nuts.
1It is recommended that beam adjustment be
carried out by a Ford garage using optical
alignment equipment. In an emergency,
however, the following procedure will produce
acceptable results.
2The vehicle should be normally laden and the
tyre pressures must be correct. Park the vehicle
on level ground, approximately 10 metres (33
feet) in front of a flat wall or garage door.
3Draw a vertical line on the wall or door
corresponding to the centre-line of the vehicle.
(The position of this line can be determined by
marking the centres of the windscreen and
rear window with crayon, then viewing the wall
or door from the rear of the vehicle.)
4With the centre-line established, construct
the other lines shown (see illustration).
5Switch the headlights on to dipped beam.
Cover one headlight with cloth and adjust the
other, using the two screws at the rear of the
unit, to bring the centre of the beam to the
point C on the appropriate side of the
alignment chart (see illustration).6Transfer the cloth to theadjusted headlight,
and repeat the adjustment on the other headlight.
7Have the alignment checked professionally
at the first opportunity.
1Always switch the light off, or disconnect the
battery negative lead, before changing a bulb.
Courtesy light
2Carefully prise the light unit from its
location. If reading (spot) lights are fitted, prise
from the middle; if not, prise from one end
(seeillustration).
3Renew the bulb(s), detaching the reflector or
contact plate as necessary.
4Reassemble the light unit and press it home.
Vanity mirror light
5Carefully prise the frame off the mirror to
expose the bulbs(see illustration).
6Unclip the blown bulb(s) and press in the
new ones. Make sure that the spring contacts
which secure the bulb are clean and tight;
bend them slightly to improve their tension if
necessary.
7Check for correct operation, then snap the
mirror frame home.
Door lights
8The door open warning light can be
removed from the edge of the door by prisingthe lens from the inside edge (see
illustration).
9Renew the bulb and press the lens home.
10The kerb illumination light is renewed in a
similar way. Prise out the lens using the slot
provided, renew the bulb and refit the lens
(seeillustration).
6Interior lights - bulb renewal
5Headlight beam alignment
Body electrical system 13•7
13
5.5 Headlight beam adjustment screws
(arrowed)
6.2 Courtesy light bulb renewal
Prise at points arrowed
6.8 “Door open” light bulb renewal6.5 Mirror light bulb renewal
Prise frame at point arrowed
5.4 Headlight beam alignment
chart
A Distance between headlamp
centres
B Light-dark boundary
C Beam centre dipped
D Dipped beam pattern
H Height from ground to centre of
headlamps
X = 120 mm (4.7 in)
6.10 Kerb illumination light bulb renewal
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