check engine FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Service Manual

and right-hand mountings. Do not yet
release the hoist; the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be
taken by the mountings until all are
correctly aligned.
(d) Fitting the Ford service tool in place of the
front mounting, tighten the
engine/transmission mounting fasteners
to their specified torque wrench settings,
and in the sequence described in Part B
of this Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49
and 50.
(e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(f) Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).
(g) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.
Removal
Note:While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pumppressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.
In addition to the new pump gasket and
other replacement parts required, read
through Section 15, and ensure that the
necessary tools and facilities are available.
1Remove the timing belt (see Section 10).
2Withdraw the crankshaft toothed pulley
and the thrustwasher behind it, noting which
way round the thrustwasher is fitted (see
Section 11).
3Remove the sump (see Section 15).
4Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw
and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.
Inspection
6Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration).
7Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
8The oil pressure relief valve can bedismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, apply the handbrake securely and
raise its front end, supporting it securely on
axle stands. Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to provide access to the valve.
9Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10Reassembly is the reverse of the
dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.
Refitting
11The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration).
13Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactlyaround the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder block/
crankcase on each side of the crankshaft
(see illustration). Being careful not to disturb
16 Oil pump - removal,
inspection and refitting
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•21
2A
16.9B . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief
valve spring and plunger16.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil
pump16.13 Check the oil pump is positioned
correctly
16.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove
oil pump16.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor16.9A Unscrew threaded plug - seen
through right-hand wheel arch . . .
procarmanuals.com

the gasket, move the pump into the correct
position, and tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
14Check that the pump is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the pump is
correctly aligned.
15Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal
(see Section 20).
16Using grease to stick the gasket in place
on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,
tightening its screws and nut to their specified
torque wrench settings (see illustration).
17The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
1Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
Disconnect the coolant hoses from the oil
cooler.
2Unscrew the oil filter (see Chapter 1) -
catch any escaping oil in a drip tray.
3Unscrew the filter adaptor from the oil
pump, and withdraw the oil cooler; note how
its unions are aligned, and be prepared for oil
loss from the cooler.
4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:(a) Renew all O-rings and seals disturbed on
removal.
(b) Align the cooler’s unions as noted on
removal, and tighten the adaptor to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
(d) Refit the oil filter, then check the engine
oil level, and top-up as necessary (see
Chapter 1).
(e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks once
the engine has been restarted and warmed-
up to normal operating temperature.
1With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
2Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
3Undo the two screws, and remove the
sensor’s cover from the front of the sump
(see illustration).
4Unplug the wiring from the sensor (see
illustration). Where necessary, unplug the
electrical connector to disconnect the sensor
wiring, and unclip the connector to release
the wiring from the vehicle.
5Unscrew the sensor, and quickly plug the
sump aperture to minimise oil loss; note the
sensor’s seal.6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; renew the sensor’s seal if it is
worn or damaged, and tighten the sensor to
the specified torque wrench setting. Check
the engine oil level, and top-up as necessary
(see Chapter 1) - check for signs of oil leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating temperature.
1The switch is screwed into the rear of the
cylinder block, above the right-hand
driveshaft’s support bearing (see
illustration).
2With the vehicle parked on firm level
ground, open the bonnet and disconnect the
battery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,
Section 1.
3Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands.
4Unplug the wiring from the switch, and
unscrew it; be prepared for some oil loss.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; apply a thin smear of suitable
sealant to the switch threads, and tighten it to
the specified torque wrench setting. Check
the engine oil level, and top-up as necessary
(see Chapter 1). Check for signs of oil leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating temperature.
Note:Don’t try to prise these seals out
without removing the oil pump or seal carrier -
the seals are too soft, and the amount of
space available is too small, for this to be
possible without considerable risk of damage
to the seal housing and/or the crankshaft
journal. Follow exactly the procedure given
below.
Right-hand seal
1Remove the oil pump (see Section 16).
2Drive the oil seal out of the pump from
behind (see illustration).
20 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
19 Oil pressure warning light
switch - removal and refitting
18 Oil level sensor-
removal and refitting
17 Oil cooler -
removal and refitting
2A•22 In-car engine repair procedures
16.16 Use new gasket when refitting oil
pick-up pipe to pump18.3 Remove screws (arrowed) to remove
oil level sensor cover . . .18.4 . . . disconnecting wiring from sensor
19.1 Oil pressure warning light switch
(arrowed) is screwed into rear of cylinder
block, above right-hand driveshaft support
bearing
20.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil
seal
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3Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4Refit the oil pump (see Section 16). Grease
the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease
installation.
5To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-093A, with the
crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into
place; an alternative can be arranged using a
socket of suitable size, with a washer to
match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see
illustration).
6If such tools are not available, press the
seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until
it is flush with the pump housing, using a soft-
faced mallet and a socket with an outside
diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s
(see illustration). This approach requires
great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted
squarely, without distortion or damage.
7Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of
reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring to the relevant text for
details where required. Check for signs of oil
leakage when the engine is restarted.
Left-hand seal
8Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
9Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8).
10Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see
Section 21).11Remove the sump (see Section 15).
12Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see
illustration). Remove and discard its gasket.
13Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden
blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier
from behind (see illustration).
14Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a
scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket
- be careful not to scratch or damage the
material of either - then use a suitable solvent
to degrease them.
15Use grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then
offer up the carrier (see illustration).
16Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the carrier is both centred
exactlyaround the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft. Being careful not to disturb the
gasket, move the carrier into the correct
position, and tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting (see illustration).
17Check that the carrier is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the carrier is
correctly aligned.
18Ford’s recommended method of seal
fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with twoflywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If
this is not available, make up a guide from a
thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the
lips of the new seal and the crankshaft
shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal,
with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the
crankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press
the seal evenly into its housing by hand only,
and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it
into place until it is flush with the surrounding
housing.
19Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the
remainder of the reassembly procedure is the
reverse of dismantling, referring to the
relevant text for details where required.
Check for signs of oil leakage when the
engine is restarted.
In-car engine repair procedures 2A•23
2A
20.15 Use new gasket when refitting left-
hand oil seal carrier20.16 Check the oil seal carrier is correctly
positioned20.18 Using guide made from thin sheet of
plastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft
shoulder
20.5 Socket of correct size can be used to
replace Ford service tool, drawing new
seal into place as described20.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown,
exercise great care to prevent seal from
being damaged or distorted20.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove
crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .
20.13 . . . and ensure that carrier is
properly supported when driving out used
oil seal - note notches provided in carrier
for drift
procarmanuals.com

Removal
1Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7). Now is a good time to
check components such as oil seals and
renew them if necessary.
2Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check or
renew the clutch components and pilot
bearing.
3Use a centre-punch or paint to make
alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from
turning by locking the ring gear teeth, or by
bolting a strap between the flywheel/
driveplate and the cylinder block/
crankcase. Slacken the bolts evenly until all
are free.
5Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission-equipped models only),
withdraw the flywheel/driveplate; do not drop
it - it is very heavy.
Inspection
7Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 20) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft
speed/position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip,
and check that the sensor is securely
fastened.
Refitting
10On refitting, ensure that the
engine/transmission adaptor plate is in place
(where necessary), then fit the
flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so that
all bolt holes align - it will fit only one way -
check this using the marks made on removal.
Do not forget the reinforcing plate (where
fitted).
11Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting (see
illustration).
12The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
General
1The engine/transmission mountings
seldom require attention, but broken or
deteriorated mountings should be renewed
immediately, or the added strain placed on
the driveline components may cause damage
or wear.
2While separate mountings may be removed
and refitted individually, if more than one is
disturbed at a time - such as if theengine/transmission unit is removed from its
mountings - they must be reassembled and
their fasteners tightened in a strict sequence.
3On reassembly, the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be taken
by the mountings until all are correctly
aligned. Fitting the Ford service tool in place
of the front mounting, tighten the
engine/transmission mounting fasteners to
their specified torque wrench settings, and in
the sequence described in Part B of this
Chapter, Section 4, paragraphs 49 and 50.
Inspection
4During the check, the engine/transmission
unit must be raised slightly, to remove its
weight from the mountings.
5Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Position a jack under
the sump, with a large block of wood
between the jack head and the sump, then
carefully raise the engine/transmission just
enough to take the weight off the mountings.
Warning: DO NOT place any part
of your body under the engine
when it is supported only by a
jack!
6Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes the rubber
will split right down the centre.
7Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.
Renewal
Front mounting
8Unbolt the resonator support bracket from
the engine compartment front crossmember,
slacken the two clamp screws securing the
22 Engine/transmission
mountings -
inspection and renewal
21 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection and refitting
2A•24 In-car engine repair procedures
21.11 Note method used to lock
flywheel/driveplate while (new) bolts are
tightened
22.8 Engine/transmission front mounting - manual transmission shown, automatic
equivalent similar
1 Transmission 3 Mounting 5 Mounting centre bolt
2 Mounting bracket 4 Front suspension subframe
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 2 Part B: Engine removal
and general engine overhaul procedures
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . See Chapter 2A
Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running
clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Crankshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and inspection . . . 7
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine/transmission removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and
big-end bearing running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cylinder head
Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm
Valve seat included angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90°
Valve guide bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.060 to 6.091 mm
Valves - generalInlet Exhaust
Valve lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.500 to 7.685 mm7.610 to 7.765 mm
Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96.870 to 97.330 mm 96.470 to 96.930 mm
Valve head diameter:
1.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 mm 24.5 mm
1.8 and 2.0 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.0 mm 28.0 mm
Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.028 to 6.043 mm 6.010 to6.025 mm
Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.017 to 0.064 mm 0.035 to 0.081 mm
Cylinder block
Cylinder bore diameter - 1.6 litre engine:
Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.000 to 76.010 mm
Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.010 to 76.020 mm
Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.020 to 76.030 mm
Cylinder bore diameter - 1.8 litre engine:
Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.600 to 80.610 mm
Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.610 to 80.620 mm
Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.620 to 80.630 mm
Cylinder bore diameter - 2.0 litre engine:
Class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.800 to 84.810 mm
Class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.810 to 84.820 mm
Class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.820 to 84.830 mm
2B•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents2B
procarmanuals.com

How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to
engine/transmission removal and refitting, to
those repair procedures requiring the removal
of the engine/transmission from the vehicle,
and to the overhaul of engine components. It
includes only the Specifications relevant to
those procedures. Refer to Part A for
additional Specifications, if required.
General information
The information ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal
and installation of internal engine components
and the inspection of parts.
The following Sections have been written
based on the assumption that the engine has
been removed from the vehicle. For
information concerning in-vehicle engine
repair, as well as removal and installation of
the external components necessary for the
overhaul, see Part A of this Chapter and
Section 5 of this Part.
When overhauling this engine, it is essential
to establish first exactly what replacement
parts are available. At the time of writing,
components such as the piston rings are not
available separately from the
piston/connecting rod assemblies; pistons,
gudgeon pins and valve guides are not
available separately, and very few under- or
oversized components are available for
engine reconditioning. In most cases, it would
appear that the easiest and most
economically-sensible course of action is to
replace a worn or damaged engine with an
exchange unit.
It’s not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an
indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably
the most important consideration. An engine
that’s had regular and frequent oil and filter
changes, as well as other required
maintenance, will most likely give many
thousands of miles of reliable service.
Conversely, a neglected engine may require
an overhaul very early in its life.
Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make surethat oil leaks aren’t responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn. Perform a cylinder compression check
(Part A of this Chapter, Section 3) to
determine the extent of the work required.
Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve train
noise and high fuel consumption rates may
also point to the need for an overhaul,
especially if they’re all present at the same
time. If a full service doesn’t remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only
solution.
An engine overhaul involves restoring all
internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. Note:Always check first what
replacement parts are available before
planning any overhaul operation; refer to
Section 1 of this Part. Ford dealers, or a good
engine reconditioning specialist/automotive
parts supplier may be able to suggest
alternatives which will enable you to overcome
the lack of replacement parts.
During an overhaul, it is usual to renew the
piston rings, and to rebore and/or hone the
cylinder bores; where the rebore is done by an
automotive machine shop, new oversize
pistons and rings will also be installed - all
these operations, of course, assume the
availability of suitable replacement parts. The
main and big-end bearings are generally
renewed and, if necessary, the crankshaft
may be reground to restore the journals.
Generally, the valves are serviced as well,
since they’re usually in less-than-perfect
condition at this point. While the engine is
being overhauled, other components, such as
the starter and alternator, can be renewed as
well, or rebuilt, if the necessary parts can be
found. The end result should be an as-new
engine that will give many trouble-free miles.
Note:Critical cooling system components
such as the hoses, drivebelt, thermostat and
water pump MUST be replaced with new
parts when an engine is overhauled. The
radiator should be checked carefully, to
ensure that it isn’t clogged or leaking (see
Chapter 3). Also, as a general rule, the oil
pump should be renewed when an engine is
rebuilt.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult,
but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehicle
being off the road for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
automotive machine shop for repair or
reconditioning. Check on availability of parts,
and make sure that any necessary special
tools and equipment are obtained in advance.
Most work can be done with typical hand
tools, although a number of precision
measuring tools are required, for inspecting
parts to determine if they must be replaced.
Often, an automotive machine shop will
handle the inspection of parts, and will offer
advice concerning reconditioning andreplacement. Note:Always wait until the
engine has been completely dismantled, and
all components, especially the cylinder
block/crankcase, have been inspected, before
deciding what service and repair operations
must be performed by an automotive machine
shop. Since the block’s condition will be the
major factor to consider when determining
whether to overhaul the original engine or buy
a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have
machine work done on other components
until the cylinder block/crankcase has been
thoroughly inspected.As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it
doesn’t pay to install worn or sub-standard
parts.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure will help keep tools clean
and organized.
The engine can only be withdrawn by
removing it complete with the transmission;
the vehicle’s body must be raised and
supported securely, sufficiently high that the
engine/transmission can be unbolted as a
single unit and lowered to the ground; the
engine/transmission unit can then be
withdrawn from under the vehicle and
separated. An engine hoist or A-frame will
therefore be necessary. Make sure the
equipment is rated in excess of the combined
weight of the engine and transmission. Safety
is of primary importance, considering the
potential hazards involved in removing the
engine/transmission from the vehicle.
If this is the first time you have removed an
engine, a helper should ideally be available.
Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations
required when removing the engine/
transmission from the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange for,
or obtain, all of the tools and equipment you’ll
need prior to beginning the job. Some of the
equipment necessary to perform
engine/transmission removal and installation
3 Engine/transmission removal -
methods and precautions
2 Engine overhaul -
general information
1 General information
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•3
2B
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inner wing panel, release the engine
wiring loom and refit the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(g) Secure the engine wiring loom neatly to
the engine/transmission so that it cannot
be damaged as the unit is removed from
the vehicle.
14Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield; unclip the coolant hose to allow
the upper part to be withdrawn.
15Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see
Chapter 1).
16Unbolt the power steering pump (see
Chapter 10); secure it as far as possible
(without disconnecting the system’s hoses)
clear of the engine/transmission.
17Raise the vehicle and support it securely
on axle stands, then remove the front
roadwheels. Drain the cooling system and (if
the engine is to be dismantled) drain the
engine oil and remove the oil filter (see
Chapter 1). Also drain the transmission as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 7.
18Withdraw the lower part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield.
19Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then unhook all the system’s rubber
mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle (see
Chapter 4 for details).
20Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, mark their positions, then
disconnect the gearchange linkage and
transmission support rods from the rear of the
transmission. Unscrew the retaining nuts, and
withdraw the gear linkage heat shield from the
underbody. Unbolt the rear end of the linkage
from the underbody, swivel the linkage around
to the rear, and tie it to the underbody (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
21Disconnect both anti-roll bar links from
their respective suspension strut - note the
flexible brake hose bracket attached to each
link stud - and both track rod ends from their
steering knuckles. Unfasten the clamp bolt
securing each front suspension lower arm
balljoint to its steering knuckle (see Chap-
ter 10 for details). Check that both balljoints
can be released from the knuckle assemblies
when required, but leave them in place for thetime being, secured by the clamp bolts if
necessary.
22Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, unbolt the accumulator/
dehydrator from the subframe; secure it as far
as possible (without disconnecting the
system’s hoses) clear of the engine/
transmission.
Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.
23Unbolt the steering gear from the
subframe; if the bolts are not accessible from
above, a Ford service tool will be required to
reach them from underneath the vehicle (see
Chapter 10 for details).
24Unscrew the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
25Hold the radiator in its raised position, by
inserting split pins through the holes in the
rear of the engine compartment front
crossmember and into the radiator’s upper
mounting extensions. Unbolt the radiator
mounting brackets from the subframe; note
that they are handed, and are marked to
ensure correct refitting (see illustrations).
Collect and store the bottom mounting
rubbers for safekeeping, noting which way up
they are fitted.
26Unbolt the engine/transmission rear
mounting from the subframe - where the
vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, a
separate damper may be fitted beneath the
subframe, which must be unbolted to reach
the mounting’s fasteners. Where the vehicle is
fitted with manual transmission, also unscrew
the mounting centre bolt, and unbolt the
mounting bracket from the transmission.
27Unscrew the engine/transmission front
mounting centre bolt, and unbolt the
mounting from the subframe, noting the
location of the wiring connector bracket.
28Use white paint or similar (do not use a
sharp-pointed scriber, which might break the
underbody protective coating and cause
rusting) to mark the exact relationship of the
subframe to the underbody. Unscrew the four
mounting bolts from the subframe (note their
different-sized washers - see also illus-tration 4.47A) and allow the subframe to hang
down on the suspension lower arm balljoints.
Disconnect the balljoints one at a time from
the steering knuckle assemblies (see Chap-
ter 10) and lower the subframe to the ground;
withdraw the subframe from under the
vehicle.
29Marking or labelling all components as
they are disconnected (see paragraph 5
above) and catching as much as possible of
the escaping coolant in the drain tray,
disconnect the cooling system hoses and
pipes as follows - refer to Chapter 3 for further
details, if required:
(a) Remove the radiator top hose.
(b) Remove the (heater) hose running from
the thermostat to the engine
compartment bulkhead union.
(c) Disconnect from the thermostat the hose
running to the expansion tank - secure the
hose clear of the working area.
(d) Disconnect from the thermostat the
coolant hose/pipe which runs to the
radiator bottom hose.
(e) Disconnect the radiator bottom hose from
the radiator union, from the (sump) heater
coolant pipe and from the water pump
union - secure the hose clear of the
working area.
(f) Unbolt the (heater) coolant pipe from the
sump, trace the pipe/hose round to the
engine compartment bulkhead union,
disconnecting (where fitted) the oil cooler
hoses from the cooler unions, then
remove it.
(g) Unless the vehicle has air conditioning
fitted, secure the radiator as far forwards
as possible while it is in its raised position;
if air conditioning is fitted, remove the
radiator completely (see Chapter 3).
30Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, unplug the compressor’s
electrical connector, and unbolt the
compressor from the engine (see
illustration). Secure it as far as possible
(without disconnecting the system’s hoses)
clear of the engine/transmission.
Warning: Do not disconnect the
refrigerant hoses.
2B•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.25A Use split pins as shown to secure
radiator in its raised position . . .
4.25B . . . while you unbolt the bottom
mountings (arrowed) - note that the
mountings are handed, and do not lose the
mounting rubbers
4.30 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to release
air conditioning compressor from engine
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31Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, disconnect the driveshafts from
the transmission as follows, referring to
Chapter 8 for further details when required:
(a) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand
driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw
the heat shield.
(b) Pull the right-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission; be prepared to catch any
spilt oil.
(c) Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission - remember that the
unit is to be lowered out of the vehicle -
and ensure that the inner joint is not
turned through more than 18°.
(d) Prise the left-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission - again, be prepared for oil
spillage. Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission, and ensure that its
inner joint is not turned through more than
18°.
32Where the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, proceed as follows, referring to
Chapter 7, Part B and to Chapter 8 for further
details when required:
(a) Unscrew its centre bolt, then unbolt the
engine/transmission rear mounting
bracket from the transmission.
(b) Disconnect the fluid cooler pipe from the
rear of the transmission, and secure it
clear of the unit.
(c) Prise the left-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission; be prepared to catch any
spilt oil.
(d) Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission - remember that the
unit is to be lowered out of the vehicle -
and ensure that the inner joint is not
turned through more than 18°.
(e) Unscrew the nuts securing the right-hand
driveshaft support bearing, and withdraw
the heat shield.
(f) Pull the right-hand driveshaft out of the
transmission - again, be prepared for oil
spillage. Secure the driveshaft clear of the
engine/transmission, and ensure that its
inner joint is not turned through more than
18°.
(g) Disconnect the fluid cooler pipe from the
front of the transmission, and secure it
clear of the unit.
33The engine/transmission unit should now
be hanging on the right- and left-hand
mountings only, with all components which
connect it to the rest of the vehicle
disconnected or removed and secured well
clear of the unit. Make a final check that this is
the case, then ensure that the body is
securely supported, high enough to permit the
withdrawal of the engine/transmission unit
from underneath; allow for the height of the
engine dolly, if used.
34Take the weight of the engine/
transmission unit, using the lifting eyes
provided on the cylinder head. Unscrew the
six nuts securing the right-hand mounting
bracket, then the three nuts securing the left-
hand bracket. Warning: Do not put any part of
your body under the vehicle, or
under the engine/transmission
unit, when they are supported only by a
hoist or other lifting equipment.
35Lower the engine/transmission to the
ground, and withdraw it from under the
vehicle (see illustration).
36Referring to the relevant part of Chapter 7,
separate the transmission from the engine.
37While the engine/transmission is removed,
check the mountings; renew them if they are
worn or damaged. Similarly, check the
condition of all coolant and vacuum hoses
and pipes (see Chapter 1); components that
are normally hidden can now be checked
properly, and should be renewed if there is
any doubt at all about their condition. Where
the vehicle is fitted with manual transmission,
take the opportunity to overhaul the clutch
components (see Chapter 8). It is regarded by
many as good working practice to renew the
clutch assembly as a matter of course,
whenever major engine overhaul work is
carried out. Check also the condition of all
components (such as the transmission oil
seals) disturbed on removal, and renew any
that are damaged or worn.
Refitting
38Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points.
Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings given; where settings are not quoted
in the Specifications Sections of the two Parts
of this Chapter, refer to the Specifications
Section of the relevant Chapter of this manual.
39In addition to the points noted in
paragraph 37 above, always renew any
circlips and self-locking nuts disturbed on
removal.
40Where wiring, etc, was secured by cable
ties which had to be cut on removal, ensure
that it is secured with new ties on refitting.
41With all overhaul operations completed,
refit the transmission to the engine as
described in Chapter 7.
42Manoeuvre the engine/transmission unit
under the vehicle, attach the hoist, and lift the
unit into position until the right- and left-hand
mountings can be reassembled; tighten the
(new) nuts only lightly at this stage. Do not yet
release the hoist; the weight of the
engine/transmission unit must not be taken by
the mountings until all are correctly aligned.
43Using new circlips, and ensuring that the
inner joints are not twisted through too great
an angle (see Chapter 8), refit the driveshafts.
Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, the procedure is the reverse of
that outlined in paragraph 31 above. Where
the vehicle is fitted with automatic
transmission, proceed as follows, referring to
Chapter 7, Part B and to Chapter 8 for further
details when required:
(a) Refit the left-hand driveshaft.
(b) Using the clips provided to ensure that
they are correctly routed, and tighteningthe couplings to the specified torque
wrench setting where possible, reconnect
the fluid cooler pipes, first to the rear,
then to the front, of the transmission.
(c) Refit the right-hand driveshaft to the
transmission, refit the heat shield, and
tighten the support bearing nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
(d) Refit the engine/transmission rear
mounting bracket to the transmission,
tightening the bolts to the torque wrench
setting specified, then refit the mounting,
tightening the centre bolt only lightly at
this stage.
44Where the vehicle is fitted with air
conditioning, do not forget to refit the
compressor; tighten the bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting, and plug in its
electrical connector.
45Using the marks and notes made on
removal, refit the cooling system hoses.
Where they are left disconnected or unclipped
for the time being, do not forget to secure
them at the appropriate moment during the
reassembly procedure. Refit the radiator (if
removed), using split pins to secure it in the
raised position.
46Offer up the subframe one side at a time,
and hold it by securing the suspension lower
arm balljoints to the steering knuckle
assemblies. Refit the subframe bolts, ensuring
that the washers are refitted correctly, and
tightening the bolts only lightly at this stage.
47The subframe must now be aligned on the
underbody. Ford specify the use of service
tool 15-097, which is a pair of tapered guides,
with attachments to hold them in the
subframe as it is refitted. However, since the
working diameter of these tools is 20.4 mm,
and since the corresponding aligning holes in
the subframe and underbody are respectively
21 mm and 22 mm in diameter, there is a
significant in-built tolerance possible in the
subframe’s alignment, even if the correct tools
are used. If these tools are not available, you
can align the subframe by eye, centring the
subframe aligning holes on those of the
underbody, and using the marks made on
removal for assistance. Alternatively, you can
align the subframe using a tapered drift (such
as a clutch-aligning tool), or even a deep
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•7
2B
4.35 Lowering the engine/transmission
unit out of the vehicle
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socket spanner of suitable size (see
illustrations).
48Once the subframe is aligned as precisely
as possible, tighten its bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting without disturbing its
position. Recheck the alignment once all the
bolts are securely tightened.
49With the subframe aligned and securely
fastened, the engine/transmission unit must
now be positioned precisely, before the
mountings can be reassembled. Ford specify
the use of service tool 21-172; this is a fixture
bolted to the subframe in place of the
engine/transmission front mounting, so that
when the mounting’s centre bolt is refitted, it
is held 60 mm above the subframe’s top
surface, and offset 20 mm to the rear of the
mounting’s subframe bolt holes (centres). DIY
mechanics are advised to obtain the Ford
tool; the only alternative is to have a copy
fabricated (see illustration).
50Fasten the tool to the subframe in place of
the engine/transmission front mounting, and
lightly tighten the mounting’s centre bolt. Refit
the engine/transmission mountings in the
following sequence:
(a) Tighten the left-hand mounting’s nuts to
the specified torque wrench setting - do
not allow the mounting to twist as it is
tightened (see illustration).
(b) Tighten the right-hand mounting’s four
bracket-to-engine nuts to the specified
torque wrench setting.(c) Slowly release the hoist so that the weight
of the engine/transmission unit is taken by
the mountings.
(d) Tighten the right-hand mounting’s two
bracket-to-mounting nuts to the specified
torque wrench setting - do not allow the
mounting to twist as it is tightened (see
illustration).
(e) Reassemble the engine/transmission rear
mounting, tightening the fasteners to the
specified torque wrench settings; tighten
the centre bolt last.
(f) Refit the steering gear to the subframe; if
the Ford service tool is used to tighten the
bolts from underneath the vehicle (see
Chapter 10 for details), note that a torque
wrench which can tighten in an anti-
clockwise direction will be required.
(g) Unbolt the special tool from the front
mounting, refit the mounting - do not
forget the wiring connector bracket - and
tighten first the mounting’s bolts/nuts,
then its centre bolt, to their respective
specified torque wrench settings (see
illustrations).
51Refit the bottom mounting rubbers to the
radiator - ensure that both are the correct way
up - then refit the radiator mounting brackets
to the subframe, ensuring that each is
returned to its correct (marked) location, and
tightening the bolts to the torque wrench
setting specified. Remove the split pins, and
secure the coolant hose connections (where
necessary).
52Refit the air conditioning accumulator/
dehydrator (where appropriate) to the
subframe.
53Tighten the two bolts securing the power
steering system pipes to the right-hand side
of the subframe.
54Fasten each front suspension lower arm
balljoint and track rod end to their respective
steering knuckles, and both anti-roll bar links
to their respective suspension strut. Note the
flexible brake hose bracket attached to each
link stud (see Chapter 10 for details).
55Where the vehicle is fitted with manual
transmission, swivel the linkage around to the
front, tighten its rear fasteners, then refit the
2B•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
4.47A Tighten subframe mounting
bolts (A) while ensuring that alignment
remains correct - Ford service tools (B)
shown in use here . . .4.47B . . . but alternative methods using
ordinary hand tools can achieve
acceptable alignment, with care4.49 Special tool required to hold
engine/transmission unit precisely, so that
mountings can be tightened into correct
position
4.50B Tighten the right-hand mounting’s
four bracket-to-engine nuts (A), release
the hoist, then tighten the two bracket-to-
mounting nuts (B). Do not allow mounting
to twist
4.50A Do not allow the left-hand mounting
to twist as its nuts (arrowed) are tightened
4.50C Unbolt special tool . . .
4.50D . . . then refit front mounting - do
not forget wiring connector bracket -
tighten the mounting’s nuts first, then its
centre bolt
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gear linkage heat shield. Reconnect the
gearchange linkage and transmission support
rods to the transmission, adjusting the linkage
using the marks made on removal (see
Chapter 7, Part A, for details).
56Re-install the remaining components and
fasteners in the reverse order of removal.
57Add coolant, engine oil and transmission
fluids as needed (see Chapter 1).
58Run the engine, and check for proper
operation and the absence of leaks. Shut off
the engine, and recheck the fluid levels.
59Remember that, since the front suspension
subframe and steering gear have been
disturbed, the wheel alignment and steering
angles must be checked fully and carefully as
soon as possible, with any necessary
adjustments being made. This operation is best
carried out by an experienced mechanic, using
proper checking equipment; the vehicle should
therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similarly-
qualified person for attention.
1It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable engine
stand. These stands can often be hired from a
tool hire shop. Before the engine is mounted
on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate should be
removed (Part A of this Chapter, Section 21)
so that the stand bolts can be tightened into
the end of the cylinder block/crankcase.
2If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it mounted on
blocks, on a sturdy workbench or on the floor.
Be extra-careful not to tip or drop the engine
when working without a stand.
3If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
Note:When removing the external
components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
washers, bolts and other small items.These
external components include the following:
(a) Alternator and brackets (Chapter 5).
(b) HT leads and spark plugs (Chapter 1).
(c) Thermostat and housing (Chapter 3).
(d) Dipstick tube.
(e) Fuel injection system components
(Chapter 4).
(f) All electrical switches and sensors - refer
to the appropriate Chapter.
(g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(h) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
(i) Engine/transmission mounting brackets
(Part A of this Chapter, Section 22).
(j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
4If you are obtaining a “short” engine (whichconsists of the engine cylinder
block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled and the internal
components removed in the following order.
(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Part A of this
Chapter).
(b) Timing belt, toothed pulleys and
tensioner, and timing belt inner cover
(Part A of this Chapter).
(c) Cylinder head (Part A of this Chapter,
Section 14).
(d) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter, Section 21).
(e) Sump (Part A of this Chapter, Section 15).
(f) Oil pump (Part A of this Chapter, Sec-
tion 16).
(g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 9).
(h) Crankshaft (Section 10).
6Before beginning the dismantling andoverhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to the
introductory pages at the beginning of this
manual for further information.
Note:New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturers, and
from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the
fact that some specialist tools are required for
the dismantling and inspection procedures,
and new components may not be readily
available (refer to Section 1 of this Part), it may
be more practical and economical for the
home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned
head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and
recondition the original head.
1Remove the camshafts and hydraulic
tappets (Part A of this Chapter, Section 13),
being careful to store the hydraulic tappets as
described (see illustration).
6 Cylinder head - dismantling
5 Engine overhaul-
dismantling sequence
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2B•9
2B
6.1 Cylinder head components
1 Hydraulic tappet
2 Valve collets
3 Valve spring upper seat
4 Valve spring5 Valve spring lower
seat/stem oil seal
6 Oil-retaining valve
7 Engine lifting eye
8 Cylinder head gasket9 Inlet valve
10 Locating dowels
11 Exhaust valve
12 Cylinder head bolt
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