torque FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Manual PDF

EGR valve, and check the valve and the
inlet manifold for blockage. Clean or
renew parts as necessary, and recheck.
EGR system
6Any further checking of the system requires
special tools and test equipment. Take the
vehicle to a dealer service department for
checking.
Component renewal
Note:These components will be very hot
when the engine is running. Always allow the
engine to cool down fully before starting work,
to prevent the possibility of burns.
EGR valve
7Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
- see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
8Remove the air mass meter and resonator -
refer to Chapter 4.
9Detach the vacuum hose, unscrew the
sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the valve,
remove the two valve mounting bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the inlet manifold
(see illustrations). Ensure that the end of the
pipe is not damaged or distorted as the valve
is withdrawn, and note the valve’s gasket; this
must be renewed whenever the valve is
disturbed.
10Note that the metal pipe from the valve to
the manifold itself should not be disturbed - it
is not available separately from the manifold.However, check whenever the manifold is
removed that the pipe’s end fitting is securely
fastened (see illustration).
11Check the valve for sticking and heavy
carbon deposits. If such is found, clean the
valve or renew it.
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Apply a smear of anti-seize
compound to the sleeve nut threads, fit a new
gasket, and tighten the valve bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
EGR pipe
13Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
14Remove the air mass meter and resonator
- refer to Chapter 4.
15Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield
and remove both parts, or move them aside
as required to reach the end of the EGR pipe.
Unscrew the sleeve nut securing the pipe to
the exhaust manifold (see illustration).
16Undo the two screws securing the pipe to
the ignition coil bracket, then disconnect the
two vacuum hoses - note that these are of
different sizes, to ensure that they cannot be
mixed up on reconnection. Unscrew the
sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the valve
(see illustration). Withdraw the pipe.
17Check the condition of both hoses, and
renew them if necessary (see Chapter 1). Note
that if the exhaust gases have been backfiring
excessively - eg, due to a blocked exhaust
system - both hoses must be renewed, andtheir connections on the pipe must be cleaned
thoroughly.
18Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the hoses are securely
connected to the correct unions. Apply a
smear of anti-seize compound to the sleeve
nut threads, tighten the nuts securely, and
tighten the two screws to their specified
torque wrench setting.
EGR exhaust gas pressure differential
sensor
19Refer to Section 4 of this Chapter.
EGR solenoid valve
Note:This component can be identified by its
larger top and its two fastening screws. Do not
confuse it with the adjacent pulse-air solenoid
valve, especially when reconnecting vacuum
hoses.
20Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
21Remove the air mass meter and resonator
- refer to Chapter 4. If better access is
required, remove the plenum chamber also
(see illustration).
22Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
electrical connector from the valve. Remove
the two retaining screws, and withdraw the
valve from the bulkhead mounting bracket,
then label and disconnect the two vacuum
hoses.
23Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; ensure that the hoses are correctly
reconnected.
6•16 Emissions control systems
6.9A Disconnecting vacuum hose from
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve . . .6.9B . . . unscrew EGR pipe sleeve nut and
remove bolts (arrowed) to release valve
from inlet manifold6.10 Check end fitting of EGR pipe into
inlet manifold whenever manifold is
removed, but do not disturb
6.15 Unbolt exhaust manifold heat shield,
and unscrew sleeve nut (arrowed) securing
EGR pipe to exhaust manifold . . .6.16 . . . undo screws “A” and sleeve
nut “B”, then disconnect hoses “C” - note
different sizes - to release EGR pipe6.21 EGR solenoid valve “A” and EGR
exhaust gas pressure differential sensor
“B”, located on bulkhead mounting bracket
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components are worn or damaged, the
assembly must be renewed.
18Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Pulse-air piping
Note:This component, and those around it,
will be very hot when the engine is running.
Always allow the engine to cool down fully
before starting work, to prevent the possibility
of burns.
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Section 1 of Chapter 5.
20Remove the air mass meter and resonator
- refer to Chapter 4.
21Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield;
unclip the coolant hose to allow the upper
part to be withdrawn. Apply penetrating oil to
the EGR pipe sleeve nut, and to the pulse-air
system sleeve nuts.
22Remove the EGR pipe (see Section 6).
23Remove the screws securing the filter
housing to the piping - see illustration 7.16.
Unscrew the four sleeve nuts securing the
pipes into the exhaust manifold, and remove
the piping as an assembly, taking care not to
distort it (see illustration).
24Carefully clean the piping, particularly its
threads and those of the manifold, removing
all traces of corrosion, which might prevent
them seating properly, causing air leaks when
the engine is restarted.
25On refitting, insert the piping carefully into
the cylinder head ports, taking care not to
bend or distort it. Apply anti-seize compound
to the threads, and tighten the retaining sleeve
nuts while holding each pipe firmly in its port;
if a suitable spanner is available, tighten the
sleeve nuts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
26The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.
Pulse-air filter housing and piping
assembly
Note:These components, and those around
them, will be very hot when the engine is
running. Always allow the engine to cool down
fully before starting work, to prevent the
possibility of burns.
27Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead - see Chapter 5, Section 1. Unbolt theresonator support bracket from the engine
compartment front crossmember. Slacken the
two clamp screws securing the resonator to
the air mass meter and plenum chamber
hoses, then swing the resonator up clear of
the thermostat housing (see Chapter 4).
28Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1)
and disconnect the coolant hose and the
coolant pipe/hose from the thermostat
housing.
29Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Apply penetrating oil to the EGR pipe sleeve
nut, and to the pulse-air system sleeve nuts.
30Remove the EGR pipe (see Section 6).
31Unscrew the filter housing mounting bolt.
Unscrew the four sleeve nuts securing the
pipes into the exhaust manifold and remove
the assembly, taking care not to distort it (see
illustration).
32Clean the piping, particularly its threads
and those of the manifold, removing all tracesof corrosion, which might prevent them
seating properly, causing air leaks when the
engine is restarted.
33On refitting, insert the piping carefully into
the cylinder head ports, taking care not to
bend or distort it. Apply anti-seize compound
to the threads, and tighten the retaining sleeve
nuts while holding each pipe firmly in its port;
if a suitable spanner is available, tighten the
sleeve nuts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
34The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal. Refill the cooling
system (see Chapter 1). Run the engine,
check for exhaust leaks, and check the
coolant level when it is fully warmed-up.
General information
1The crankcase ventilation system main
components are the oil separator mounted on
the front (radiator) side of the cylinder
block/crankcase, and the Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber
grommet in the separator’s left-hand upper
end. The associated pipework consists of a
crankcase breather pipe and two flexible
hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on
the left-hand end of the inlet manifold, and a
crankcase breather hose connecting the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner
assembly (see illustration). A small foam filter
in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being
drawn directly into the engine.
8 Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) system -
general information
6•18 Emissions control systems
7.23 Removing pulse-air piping - take care
not to bend or distort it7.31 Remove mounting bolt (arrowed) to
remove complete pulse-air assembly -
again, take care not to bend or distort
piping
8.1 Positive Crankcase Ventilation system
1 Oil separator
2 Gasket
3 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve4 Cylinder block/crankcase opening
5 Crankcase breather pipe and flexible hoses
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2The function of these components is to
reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the oil
separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by
the engine during normal combustion.
Checking
3Checking procedures for the system
components are included in Chapter 1.
Component renewal
Cylinder head-to-air cleaner hose
4See Chapter 1.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
valve
5The valve is plugged into the oil separator.
Depending on the tools available, access to
the valve may be possible once the pulse-air
assembly has been removed (see Section 7).
If this is not feasible, proceed as outlined in
paragraph 6 below.
Oil separator
6Remove the exhaust manifold (see Chap-
ter 2, Part A). The Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) valve can now be unplugged
and flushed, or renewed, as required, as
described in Chapter 1.
7Unbolt the oil separator from the cylinder
block/crankcase, and withdraw it; remove and
discard the gasket.
8Flush out or renew the oil separator, as
required (see Chapter 1).
9On reassembly, fit a new gasket, and
tighten the fasteners to the torque wrench
settings given in the Specifications Section of
Chapter 2, Part B.
10The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal. Refill the cooling
system (see Chapter 1). Run the engine,
check for exhaust leaks, and check the
coolant level when it is fully warmed-up.
General information
1The exhaust gases of any petrol engine
(however efficient or well-tuned) consist
largely (approximately 99 %) of nitrogen (N
2),
carbon dioxide (CO
2), oxygen (O2), other inert
gases and water vapour (H
2O). The remaining
1 % is made up of the noxious materials
which are currently seen (CO
2apart) as the
major polluters of the environment: carbon
monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC),oxides of nitrogen (NO
x) and some solid
matter, including a small lead content.
2Left to themselves, most of these pollutants
are thought eventually to break down naturally
(CO and NO
x, for example, break down in the
upper atmosphere to release CO
2) having first
caused ground-level environmental problems.
The massive increase world-wide in the use of
motor vehicles, and the current popular
concern for the environment has caused the
introduction in most countries of legislation, in
varying degrees of severity, to combat the
problem.
3The device most commonly used to clean
up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter.
It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system,
and uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the vehicle’s exhaust gases, CO
and HC being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in the three-way type of catalytic
converter) NO
xbeing reduced to N2. Note:
The catalytic converter is not a filter in the
physical sense; its function is to promote a
chemical reaction, but it is not itself affected
by that reaction.
4The converter consists of an element (or
“substrate”) of ceramic honeycomb, coated
with a combination of precious metals in such
a way as to produce a vast surface area over
which the exhaust gases must flow; the whole
being mounted in a stainless-steel box. A
simple “oxidation” (or “two-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO and HC only,
while a “reduction” (or “three-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO, HC and NO
x.
Three-way catalytic converters are further
sub-divided into “open-loop” (or
“uncontrolled”) converters which can remove
50 to 70 % of pollutants and “closed-loop”
(also known as “controlled” or “regulated”)
converters which can remove over 90 % of
pollutants.
5The catalytic converter fitted to the Mondeo
models covered in this manual is of the three-
way closed-loop type.
6The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
(a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency, and
will eventually destroy the converter; it will
also affect the operation of the oxygen
sensor, requiring its renewal if lead-
fouled. Opinions vary as to how much
leaded fuel is necessary to affect the
converter’s performance, and whether it
can recover even if only unleaded petrol is
used afterwards; the best course of action
is, therefore, to assume the worst, and to
ensure that NO leaded petrol is used at
any time.
(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systemswell-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule (Chapter 1) -
particularly, ensure that the air filter
element, the fuel filter and the spark plugs
are renewed at the correct intervals. If the
intake air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above. For the
same reason, do not persist if the engine
refuses to start - either trace the problem
and cure it yourself, or have the vehicle
checked immediately by a qualified
mechanic.
(d) Avoid allowing the vehicle to run out of
petrol.
(e) DO NOT push- or tow-start the vehicle
unless no other alternative exists,
especially if the engine and exhaust are at
normal operating temperature. Starting
the engine in this way may soak the
catalytic converter in unburned fuel,
causing it to overheat when the engine
does start - see (b) above.
(f) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds, in particular, do not “blip”
the throttle immediately before switching
off. If the ignition is switched off at
anything above idle speed, unburned fuel
will enter the (very hot) catalytic converter,
with the possible risk of its igniting on the
element and damaging the converter.
(g) Avoid repeated successive cold starts
followed by short journeys. If the
converter is never allowed to reach its
proper working temperature, it will gather
unburned fuel, allowing some to pass into
the atmosphere and the rest to soak in
the element, causing it to overheat when
a long journey is made - see (b) above.
(h) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter. Similarly, DO NOT
use silicone-based sealants on any part of
the engine or fuel system, and do not use
exhaust sealants on any part of the
exhaust system upstream of the catalytic
converter. Even if the sealant itself does
not contain additives harmful to the
converter, pieces of it may break off and
foul the element, causing local
overheating.
(i) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. Unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases, the element will overheat.
(j) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
9 Catalytic converter -
general information, checking
and component renewal
Emissions control systems 6•19
6
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Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front suspension
Front subframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 150 81 to 111
Lower arm balljoint to lower arm (service replacement, bolted on) . . . . 58 43
Lower arm balljoint-to-steering knuckle clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 to 60 35 to 44
Lower arm to subframe:
Stage 1 (used components) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Stage 1 (new components) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slacken completely
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through further 90°
Anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 18
Anti-roll bar link . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Suspension strut-to-steering knuckle pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 62
Suspension strut upper mounting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 34
Suspension strut thrust bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Driveshaft/hub retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 251
Rear suspension (Saloon/Hatchback)
Crossmember mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Front lower arm to knuckle and to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 98 52 to 72
Rear lower arm to knuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Rear lower arm to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 98 52 to 72
Anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 to 26 14 to 19
Anti-roll bar link . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 to 40 22 to 30
Suspension strut to knuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 98 52 to 72
Drum brake backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 54 33 to 40
Disc brake splash shield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66
Hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 181
Tie-bar and tie-bar bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Suspension strut upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 30 17 to 22
Suspension strut upper nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Rear suspension (Estate)
Same as for Saloon/Hatchback, except for the following.
Crossmember mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Front lower arm to knuckle and to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Upper arm to knuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Upper arm to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 62
Rear lower arm to knuckle and to crossmember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 62
Anti-roll bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 19
Anti-roll bar link . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
Hub assembly-to-knuckle retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48
Tie-bar to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Tie-bar bracket to underbody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Tie-bar to knuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 62
Shock absorber upper mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 62
Shock absorber lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Steering
Steering gear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 to 159 84 to 117
Track rod end to steering knuckle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22
Track rod end locknut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 to 47 25 to 35
Steering wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 55 33 to 41
Flexible coupling-to-pinion shaft clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to 32 17 to 24
Power steering pipe unions to valve body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 to 35 20 to 26
Steering column-to-coupling clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 27 14 to 20
Steering column mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 27 14 to 20
Steering pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Steering pump pressure line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 to 73 42 to 54
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63
10•2 Suspension and steering systems
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Since most of the procedures dealt with in
this Chapter involve jacking up the vehicle
and working underneath it, a good pair of axle
stands will be needed. A hydraulic trolley jack
is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle,
and it can also be used to support certain
components during removal and refitting
operations.
Warning: Never, under any
circumstances, rely on a jack to
support the vehicle while working
beneath it. When jacking up the vehicle, do
not lift or support it beneath the front or
rear subframes.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake. Remove the wheel
cover from the relevant front wheel, and
loosen (but do not remove) the driveshaft/hub
nut. This nut is very tight.
2Loosen the front wheel nuts, jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the front wheel.
3Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
4Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) as
described in Chapter 9.
5Remove the brake caliper and brake disc as
described in Chapter 9, but do not disconnect
the flexible hose from the caliper. Suspend
the caliper from a suitable point under the
wheel arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
6Unscrew and remove the driveshaft/hub
nut. Note that the nut is of special laminated
design, and should only be re-used a
maximum of 5 times. (It is a good idea to file a
small notch on the nut every time it is
removed.) Obtain a new nut if necessary.
7Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open using a large flat-
bladed tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seal during the separation procedure.
8Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut. If necessary, tap the knuckle
downwards with a soft-headed mallet to
separate the two components. Support the
knuckle on an axle stand.
9Pull the steering knuckle and hub assembly
from the driveshaft splines. If it is tight,
connect a universal puller to the hub flange,
and withdraw it from the driveshaft. When the
driveshaft is free, support it on an axle stand,
or suspend it from a suitable point under thewheel arch, making sure that the inner
constant velocity joint is not turned through
more than 18°. (Damage may occur if the joint
is turned through too great an angle.)
Refitting
10Lift the steering knuckle and hub
assembly onto the driveshaft splines, and
support the assembly on an axle stand.
11Locate the assembly on the front
suspension strut. Insert the pinch-bolt with its
head facing forwards. Fit the nut and tighten it
to the specified torque.
12Refit the lower arm balljoint to the knuckle
assembly, and insert the clamp bolt with its
head facing forwards. Refit the nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
13Refit the driveshaft/hub nut, and tighten it
moderately at this stage. Final tightening of
the nut is made with the vehicle lowered to the
ground.
14Refit the brake caliper and brake disc as
described in Chapter 9.
15Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
16Reconnect the track rod end balljoint to
the steering arm, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
17Refit the front wheel, and lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts
to the specified torque.
18Tighten the driveshaft/hub nut to the
specified torque, and refit the wheel cover.
Inspection
1The front hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied already greased.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,
apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
3Grip the front wheel at top and bottom, and
attempt to rock it. If excessive movement is
noted, it may be that the hub bearings are
worn. Do not confuse wear in the driveshaft
outer joint or front suspension lower arm
balljoint with wear in the bearings. Hub
bearing wear will show up as roughness or
vibration when the wheel is spun; it will also
be noticeable as a rumbling or growling noise
when driving.
Renewal
4Remove the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
5The hub must now be removed from the
bearing inner races. It is preferable to use a
press to do this, but it is possible to drive outthe hub using a length of metal tube of
suitable diameter (see illustration).
6Part of the inner race will remain on the hub,
and this should be removed using a puller.
7Note that if this procedure is being used to
renew the hub only (ie it is not intended to
renew the bearings), then it is important to
check the condition of the bearing balls and
races, to see if they are fit for re-use. It is
difficult to be sure that no damage has
occurred, especially if makeshift methods
have been used during removal; in practice, it
is probably false economy not to renew the
bearings in any case, having got this far.
8Using circlip pliers, extract the inner and
outer circlips securing the hub bearing in the
steering knuckle (see illustration).
9Press or drive out the bearing, using a
length of metal tubing of diameter slightly less
than the bearing outer race.
10Clean the bearing seating faces in the
steering knuckle.
3 Front hub and bearings -
inspection and renewal
2 Steering knuckle and hub
assembly -
removal and refitting
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
10
3.5 Front hub and bearing
1 Hub 4 Stub axle
2 Double-row ball-bearing 5 Steering knuckle
3 Circlips 6 ABS sensor
3.8 Front wheel bearing retaining circlips
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

11Locate one of the circlips in the outer
groove of the knuckle.
12Press or drive the new bearing into the
knuckle until it contacts the circlip, using a
length of metal tube of diameter slightly less
than the outer race. Do not apply any
pressure to the inner race.
13Locate the remaining circlip in the inner
groove of the knuckle.
14Support the inner race on a length of
metal tube, then press or drive the hub fully
into the bearing.
15Refit the steering knuckle and hub
assembly as described in Section 2.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front wheel.
2Unbolt the brake hose support bracket from
the front of the suspension strut (see
illustration).
3Remove the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9, but do not disconnect the flexible
hydraulic hose from the caliper. Suspend the
caliper from a suitable point under the wheel
arch, taking care not to strain the hose.
4Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckleusing a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
5Remove the ABS sensor (when fitted) from
the steering knuckle, as described in Chapter 9.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint. Disconnect
the gaiter from the CV joint housing.
7Remove the nut and disconnect the anti-roll
bar link from the strut. Note that, on models
fitted with ABS, the ABS wheel sensor wiring
support bracket is located beneath the nut
(see illustration).
8Note which way round the lower arm
balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then unscrew and
remove it from the knuckle assembly. Lever
the balljoint down from the knuckle; if it is
tight, prise the clamp open carefully using a
large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the
separation procedure.
9Where applicable, disconnect the adaptive
damping wiring multi-plug at the strut, and
unclip the wire.
10Support the strut and steering knuckle on
an axle stand. Working inside the engine
compartment, remove the strut cap (if fitted).
Unscrew and remove the front suspension
strut upper mounting nut, holding the piston
rod stationary with an 8 mm Allen key (see
illustration).
11Lower the suspension strut, together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle, from
under the wheel arch, withdrawing the tripod
on the inner end of the driveshaft from the CV
joint housing.12Unscrew and remove the pinch-bolt
securing the steering knuckle assembly to the
front suspension strut, noting which way
round it is fitted. Prise open the clamp using a
wedge-shaped tool, and release the knuckle
from the strut (see illustrations).
Refitting
13With the clamp prised open, locate the
front suspension strut on the steering knuckle,
and refit the pinch-bolt with its head facing
forwards. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque.
14Locate the suspension strut (together with
the driveshaft and steering knuckle) in its
upper mounting, and loosely screw on the
nut.
15Locate the tripod on the inner end of the
driveshaft in the CV joint housing, then
manipulate the gaiter onto the housing, and fit
a new clip.
16Where applicable, reconnect the adaptive
damping multi-plug, and fit the wire in the clip.
17Locate the lower arm balljoint fully in the
bottom of the steering knuckle. Refit the
clamp bolt and tighten it to the specified
torque.
18Reconnect the anti-roll bar link to the
strut, and tighten the nut to the specified
torque. On models fitted with ABS, do not
forget to locate the sensor wiring support
bracket beneath the nut.
19Where fitted, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
20Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
21Refit the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9.
22Refit the brake hose support bracket to
the strut, and tighten the bolt.
23Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
24Tighten the suspension strut upper
mounting nut to the specified torque, while
4 Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
4.2 Removing the brake hose support
bracket from the front of the front
suspension strut4.7 Removing the anti-roll bar link and
ABS sensor wiring bracket4.10 Front suspension strut upper
mounting nut
4.12A Steering knuckle-to-strut pinch-bolt4.12B Releasing the knuckle from the strut
procarmanuals.com

holding the piston rod with an 8 mm Allen key.
If the adaptor needed to do this is not
available, the nut can be tightened initially
with a ring spanner while the piston rod is
held. Final tightening can then be carried out
using a torque wrench and a conventional
socket (see illustration).
Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the front suspension
strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained.
Do not attempt to use makeshift methods.
Uncontrolled release of the spring could
cause damage and personal injury. Use a
high-quality spring compressor, and
carefully follow the tool manufacturer’s
instructions provided with it. After removing
the coil spring with the compressor still
fitted, place it in a safe, isolated area.
1If the front suspension struts exhibit signs
of wear (leaking fluid, loss of damping
capability, sagging or cracked coil springs)
then they should be dismantled and
overhauled as necessary. The struts
themselves cannot be serviced, and should
be renewed if faulty, but the springs and
related components can be renewed. To
maintain balanced characteristics on both
sides of the vehicle, the components on both
sides should be renewed at the same time.
2With the strut removed from the vehicle, cleanaway all external dirt, then mount it in a vice.
3Fit the coil spring compressor tools
(ensuring that they are fully engaged), and
compress the spring until all tension is relieved
from the upper mounting (see illustration).
4Hold the strut piston with an Allen key, andunscrew the thrust bearing retaining nut with a
ring spanner (see illustration).
5Withdraw the top mounting, thrust bearing,
upper spring seat and spring, followed by the
gaiter and the bump stop (see illustrations).
6If a new spring is to be fitted, the original
5 Front suspension strut -
overhaul
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
5.5A Front suspension strut components
1 Cap
2 Nut
3 Retainer
4 Nut
5 Top mounting
6 Thrust bearing7 Upper spring seat
8 Spring
9 Bump stop
10 Gaiter
11 Lower spring seat12 Strut
13 Steering knuckle
14 Clamp bolt
15 Solenoid valve for models
with adaptive damping
4.24 Final tightening of the front
suspension strut upper mounting nut5.3 Coil spring compressor tools fitted to
the coil spring5.4 Unscrewing the nut from the top of the
strut
5.5B Removing the top mounting from the strut5.5C Removing the gaiter5.5D Removing the bump stop
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spring must now be carefully released from
the compressor. If it is to be re-used, the
spring can be left in compression.
7With the strut assembly now completely
dismantled, examine all the components for
wear and damage, and check the bearing for
smoothness of operation. Renew components
as necessary.
8Examine the strut for signs of fluid leakage.
Check the strut piston for signs of pitting
along its entire length, and check the strut
body for signs of damage. Test the operation
of the strut, while holding it in an upright
position, by moving the piston through a full
stroke, and then through short strokes of 50
to 100 mm. In both cases, the resistance felt
should be smooth and continuous. If the
resistance is jerky, uneven, or if there is any
visible sign of wear or damage to the strut,
renewal is necessary.
9Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling,
noting the following points:
(a) Make sure that the coil spring ends are
correctly located in the upper and lower
seats before releasing the compressor.
(b) Check that the bearing is correctly fitted
to the piston rod seat.
(c) Tighten the thrust bearing retaining nut to
the specified torque.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
2Unscrew the nuts, and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the front suspension struts
on both sides of the vehicle. Note that, on
models with ABS, the wheel sensor wiring
support brackets are located beneath the nuts
(see illustrations).
3Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar
mounting bolts from the engine subframe on
both sides of the vehicle.
4Withdraw the anti-roll bar from one side of
the vehicle, taking care not to damage the
surrounding components.5If necessary, unscrew the nuts and remove
the links from the anti-roll bar.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate wheel.
2If removing the right-hand side lower arm,
remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover where
necessary.
3Unscrew and remove the nuts and bolts
securing the lower arm to the subframe (see
illustration).
4Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the anti-
roll bar links from the anti-roll bar on both
sides. Swivel the anti-roll bar upwards away
from the lower arm.
5Extract the split pin from the track rod end
balljoint nut. Unscrew the nut, and detach the
rod from the arm on the steering knuckle
using a conventional balljoint removal tool.
Take care not to damage the balljoint seal.
6Remove the clip securing the driveshaft
inner gaiter to the inner CV joint, and
disconnect the gaiter from the CV joint
housing. This is necessary to prevent damageto the gaiter when the steering knuckle is
moved outwards to remove the lower arm.
7Note which way round the front suspension
lower arm balljoint clamp bolt is fitted, then
unscrew and remove it from the knuckle
assembly. Lever the balljoint down from the
knuckle; if it is tight, prise the joint open carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool. Take care not to
damage the balljoint seal during the separation
procedure. Support the inner end of the
driveshaft on an axle stand (see illustrations).
8Remove the lower arm from the subframe,
and withdraw it from the vehicle.
Overhaul
9Examine the rubber bushes and the
suspension lower balljoint for wear and
damage. The balljoint may be renewed as
described in Section 8. The rubber bushes
may be removed using a press, or a length of
metal tubing together with a long bolt,
washers and nut.
10Note that the front and rear bushes are
different. The front one has a solid rubber
bush with a cylindrical inner tube, whereas the
rear one has a voided rubber bush with a
barrel-shaped inner tube (see illustration).
11Press the new bushes into the lower arm,
using the same method as used for removal.
Note that, when fitting the rear bush, the voids
must be in line with the front bush location.
On later models, a pip on the rear bush must
be aligned with a triangular alignment mark on
the arm.
7 Front suspension lower arm -
removal, overhaul and refitting
6 Front anti-roll bar and links -
removal and refitting
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
6.2A Unscrew the nut . . .6.2B . . . and disconnect the anti-roll bar
link and (on ABS models) the sensor wiring
support bracket
7.3 One of the nuts and bolts securing the
lower arm to the subframe7.7A Unscrew the lower arm balljoint
clamp bolt . . .7.7B . . . and disconnect the balljoint from
the knuckle
procarmanuals.com

Refitting
12Locate the lower arm on the subframe,
and insert the mounting bolts. Fit the nuts and
tighten them in stages, first to the specified
torque and then through the angle specified.
13If removed, locate the tripod on the inner
end of the driveshaft in the CV joint housing,
then refit the gaiter, together with a new clip.
14Refit the front suspension lower arm
balljoint to the knuckle assembly, and insert
the clamp bolt with its head facing forwards.
Refit the nut and tighten to the specified
torque.
15Refit the track rod end balljoint to the
steering knuckle, and tighten the nut to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nut to
align the holes, making sure that the torque
wrench setting is still within the specified
range. Insert a new split pin, and bend it back
to secure.
16Swivel the anti-roll bar down, then
reconnect the links to the bar and tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.
17If working on the right-hand side, refit the
auxiliary drivebelt cover where necessary.
18Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
Note:If the lower arm balljoint is worn, either
the complete lower arm or the balljoint alone
can be renewed. If the balljoint has already
been renewed, it will be bolted in position; if
the original balljoint is being renewed, then it
will be riveted in position (see illustration).
This Section describes the renewal of a
riveted balljoint.1Remove the front suspension lower arm as
described in Section 7. It is not recommended
that the balljoint be replaced with the lower
arm in position on the vehicle; the accurate
drilling necessary may not be possible, and
the holes in the arm may be enlarged.
2With the lower arm on the bench, use a
3 mm drill to make a pilot hole through each of
the three rivets. Now use a 9 mm drill to drill
the rivets to a depth of 12 mm, then use a 7 or
8 mm drift to drive the rivets out of the arm.
3Clean any rust or dirt from the rivet holes.
4The new balljoint is supplied with a
protective plastic cover over the rubber boot
and stub, and it is recommended that this
remains in position until it is time to connect
the balljoint to the steering knuckle.
5Locate the new balljoint on the lower arm,
and use three new bolts to secure it, inserting
the bolts from the top of the arm. Tighten the
nuts to the specified torque. Make sure that
the location lug on the balljoint engages the
hole in the lower arm (see illustration).
6Refit the front suspension lower arm as
described in Section 7.
Note:Removal of the rear hub damages the
bearings, and renders them unserviceable for
future use. The hub and bearing assembly
mustalways be renewed if it is removed.
Inspection
1The rear hub bearings are non-adjustable,
and are supplied complete with the hub. It is
not possible to renew the bearings separately
from the hub.
2To check the bearings for excessive wear,chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Fully release the handbrake.
3Grip the rear wheel at the top and bottom,
and attempt to rock it. If excessive movement
is noted, or if there is any roughness or
vibration felt when the wheel is spun, it is
indicative that the hub bearings are worn.
Renewal
4Remove the rear wheel.
5On models fitted with rear brake drums,
remove the rear brake drum as described in
Chapter 9.
6On models fitted with rear brake discs,
remove the rear brake disc as described in
Chapter 9.
7On all models, tap off the dust cap and
unscrew the hub nut. Note that the nut is of
special laminated design, and should only be
re-used a maximum of 5 times. It is a good
idea to mark the nut with a file every time it is
removed. Obtain a new one if necessary.
8Using a suitable puller, draw the hub and
bearing assembly off the stub axle. Note that
this procedure renders the bearings
unserviceable for future use.
9Locate the new rear hub and bearing
assembly on the stub axle, then refit the hub
nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
10Tap the dust cap fully onto the hub.
11Refit the rear brake disc or drum as
applicable, as described in Chapter 9.
12Refit the rear wheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
9 Rear hub and bearings
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
inspection and renewal
8 Front suspension lower arm
balljoint - renewal
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
10
7.10 Front suspension lower arm bushes
1 Front bush
2 Cylindrical inner tube3 Rear bush
4 Barrel-shaped inner tube5 Front of vehicle
8.5 Location lug (1) and bolt hole (2) in the
front suspension lower arm balljoint
8.0 Original riveted front suspension lower
arm balljoint
procarmanuals.com

Note:Removal of the rear hub from the
knuckle damages the bearings, and renders
them unserviceable for future use. The hub
and bearing assembly mustalways be
renewed if it is removed.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2When applicable, remove the ABS sensor
from the knuckle as described in Chapter 9.
3Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
Drum brake models
4Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose, then release the clip and detach the
flexible hose from the strut. Unscrew the
union nut, and detach the rigid brake pipe
from the wheel cylinder. If preferred (to
eliminate any bleeding procedure during
refitting) the rigid brake pipe may remain
attached to the wheel cylinder, provided that
care is taken to prevent damage to both the
rigid and flexible brake pipes.
5Unbolt the backplate from the rear
suspension knuckle (see illustration), and
support it to one side on an axle stand. The
brake shoes and handbrake cable can remain
attached.
Disc brake models
6Unbolt the splash shield from the rear
suspension knuckle.
All models
7Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle, and
move the tie-bar downwards.
8Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side.
9Support the knuckle on an axle stand, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut.
10Prise the top of the knuckle apart carefully
using a large flat-bladed tool, and withdrawthe knuckle downwards from the strut.
Withdraw the knuckle from under the rear
wheel arch.
Refitting
11Locate the knuckle fully on the strut, then
insert the clamp bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
12Refit the front and rear lower arms to the
knuckle, and insert the bolts finger-tight at
this stage.
13Refit the tie-bar to the bottom of the
knuckle, and insert the bolt finger-tight at this
stage.
14Refit the backplate (or splash shield, as
applicable) to the rear suspension knuckle,
and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Drum brake models
15Reconnect the rigid brake pipe to the
wheel cylinder (if disconnected), and tighten
the union nut.
16Attach the flexible hose to the strut, refit
the clip, and remove the hose clamp.
All models
17Fit a new rear hub and bearing assembly
as described in Section 9.
18Where applicable, refit the ABS sensor as
described in Chapter 9.
19Refit the wheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.
20With the weight of the vehicle on the
suspension, fully tighten the mounting bolts
for the tie-bar and lower arms.
21Where applicable, bleed the hydraulic
brake circuit as described in Chapter 9.
Note:Before attempting to remove the rear
suspension strut, a tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained. Careful use
of conventional coil spring compressors will
prove satisfactory.
Removal
1In order to remove the rear suspension
strut, the coil spring must be temporarily
compressed. This will enable the piston rod tobe retracted into the strut, and will provide
additional room for releasing the strut from
the bump stop on top of the rear suspension
crossmember.
Warning: It is important to only
use a high-quality spring
compressor; carefully follow the
tool manufacturer’s instructions
provided with it.
2Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate wheel.
3Where fitted, unclip the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut, and remove the sensor from
the knuckle as described in Chapter 9 (see
illustration).
4On models fitted with adaptive damping,
unclip the wiring from the strut and
disconnect the multi-plug (see illustration).
5On drum brake models, fit a brake hose
clamp to the rear flexible brake hose, then
unscrew the union nut securing the rigid brake
pipe to the flexible hose on the strut. Extract
the clip, and disconnect the flexible hose from
the strut.
6On models fitted with rear disc brakes,
unbolt the caliper from the knuckle as
described in Chapter 9, but leave the
hydraulic hose attached. Support the caliper
on an axle stand, making sure that the flexible
hose is not strained.
7Unscrew the nut securing the rear anti-roll
bar link to the front lower arm on the
appropriate side. Hold the actual link with an
adjustable spanner or grips while unscrewing
the nut, to prevent damage to the link joint.
8Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tie-bar to the bottom of the knuckle. Move the
tie-bar downwards (see illustrations).
9Unscrew and remove the bolts securing the
front and rear lower arms to the knuckle, and
move the arms to one side (see illustrations).
10Support the knuckle on a trolley jack, then
unscrew and remove the clamp bolt securing
the knuckle to the strut (see illustrations).
11Prise the clamp on the knuckle apart
using a large flat-bladed tool. Disconnect the
knuckle from the strut, and lower it on the
trolley jack as far as possible, taking care not
to damage the handbrake cable (see
illustration).
11 Rear suspension strut
(Saloon/Hatchback models) -
removal and refitting
10 Rear suspension knuckle
(Saloon/Hatchback models)-
removal and refitting
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
10.5 Two of the bolts securing the brake
backplate to the rear suspension knuckle11.3 Unclipping the ABS sensor wiring
from the strut11.4 Location of the adaptive damping
lead (1) and multi-plug (2)
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