alarm FORD MONDEO 1993 Service Repair Manual

0•4Introduction
Introduced in March 1993, the Ford
Mondeo models are available in four-door
Saloon, five-door Hatchback and five-door
Estate configurations. All feature a high
standard of equipment, with driver/passenger
safety in accidents being a particularly high
design priority; all models are fitted with
features such as side impact bars in all doors,
“anti-submarine” seats combined with “seatbelt grabbers” and pre-tensioners, and an
airbag fitted to the steering wheel. Vehicle
security is enhanced, with an in-built alarm
system and engine immobiliser being fitted as
standard, as well as double-locking doors
with shielded locks, and security-coded audio
equipment.
The four-cylinder petrol engine is a new
design, available in 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litrecapacities. It is controlled by a sophisticated
engine management system, which combines
multi-point sequential fuel injection and
distributorless ignition systems with
evaporative emissions control, exhaust gas
recirculation and a three-way regulated
catalytic converter (with a pulse-air system for
rapid warm-up) to ensure that the vehicle
complies with the most stringent of the
emissions control standards currently in force,
and yet provides the levels of performance
and fuel economy expected.
The transversely-mounted engine drives
the front roadwheels through either a five-
speed manual transmission with a cable-
operated clutch, or through an electronically-
controlled four-speed automatic transmission.
The fully-independent suspension is by
MacPherson strut on all four roadwheels,
located by transverse lower arms at the front,
and by transverse and trailing arms at the rear;
anti-roll bars are fitted at front and rear. The
Estate rear suspension is of a different design,
to give maximum loadspace inside the
vehicle, with self-levelling suspension units
available as an option. On some models, the
suspension is electronically-controlled
through the Adaptive Damping System.
The steering is power-assisted, the pump
being belt-driven from the engine, and the
rack-and-pinion steering gear mounted
behind the engine.
The vacuum servo-assisted brakes are disc
at the front, with drums at the rear on most
models; disc rear brakes and an
electronically-controlled Anti-lock Braking
System (ABS) are available on some models,
with a Traction Control System (TCS) available
as a further option where ABS is fitted.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug,
who supplied the illustrations showing spark
plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are
the copyright of the Ford Motor Company,
and are used with their permission. Thanks
are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
provided some of the workshop tools, and to
all those people at Sparkford who helped in
the production of this manual.
Project vehicles
The main project vehicle used in the
preparation of this manual, and appearing in
many of the photographic sequences, was a
1993-model Ford Mondeo 2.0 Si Hatchback.
Additional work was carried out and
photographed on a 1993-model 2.0 Si Saloon
and a 1993-model 2.0 Ghia Estate (with
automatic transmission).
Introduction to the Ford Mondeo
Ford Mondeo 2.0 Ghia Saloon
Ford Mondeo 1.8 GLX Estate
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rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston
rings may try to pop out of the ring
compressor just before entering the cylinder
bore, so keep some pressure on the ring
compressor. Work slowly, and if any
resistance is felt as the piston enters the
cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s
binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,
for any reason, force the piston into the
cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the
piston.
10To check the big-end bearing running
clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size
Plastigage slightly shorter than the width of
the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place
on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel
with the crankshaft centre-line (see illus-
tration 17.6).
11Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating
surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.
Make sure the etched number on the cap is
on the same side as that on the rod (see
illustration). Tighten the cap bolts evenly -
first use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts
to the specified (first stage) torque setting,
then use an ordinary socket extension bar
and an angle gauge to tighten the bolts
further through the specified (second stage)
angle. Use a thin-wall socket, to avoid
erroneous torque readings that can result if
the socket is wedged between the cap and
nut. If the socket tends to wedge itself
between the nut and the cap, lift up on it
slightly until it no longer contacts the cap.
Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during
this operation!
12Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,
being very careful not to disturb the
Plastigage.
13Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage to the scale printed on the
Plastigage envelope, to obtain the running
clearance (see illustration 17.10). Compare it
to the Specifications, to make sure the
clearance is correct.
14If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition (see Sec-
tion 13), it may be possible simply to renew
the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If
this is not possible, the crankshaft must bereground by a specialist, who can also supply
the necessary undersized shells. First though,
make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped
between the bearing shells and the
connecting rod or cap when the clearance
was measured. Also, recheck the crankpin
diameter. If the Plastigage was wider at one
end than the other, the crankpin journal may
be tapered (see Section 13).
15Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigage material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card.
Final piston/connecting rod
refitting
16Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts in
two stages, as described above.
18Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19The important points to remember are:
(a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.
(b) Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder -
use the etched cylinder numbers to
identify the front-facing side of both the
rod and its cap.
(c) The arrow on the piston crown must face
the timing belt end of the engine.
(d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean
engine oil.
(e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when
refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked.
20After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.1With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove
fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump. Turn the
engine on the starter until the oil pressure
warning light goes out.
3Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect
the ignition coil wiring, refit the fuel pump fuse,
then switch on the ignition and listen for the fuel
pump; it will run for a little longer than usual,
due to the lack of pressure in the system.
4Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
5While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,
some valve gear noise may be heard at first;
this should disappear as the oil circulates fully
around the engine, and normal pressure is
restored in the tappets.
6Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
7After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
8If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly
- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must notbe
re-tightened.
9If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during
this period. It is recommended that the oil and
filter be changed at the end of this period.
19 Engine -
initial start-up after overhaul
2B•22 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures
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General information
The engine electrical systems include all
ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are discussed separately
from body electrical devices such as the
lights, the instruments, etc (which are
included in Chapter 12).
Precautions
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the electrical system:
(a) Be extremely careful when servicing
engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected or
handled improperly.
(b) Never leave the ignition switched on for
long periods of time when the engine is
not running.
(c) Don’t disconnect the battery leads while
the engine is running.
(d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting
a battery lead from another vehicle during
jump starting - see the “Booster battery
(jump) starting” section at the front of this
manual.
(e) Always disconnect the negative lead first,
and reconnect it last, or the battery may
be shorted by the tool being used to
loosen the lead clamps (see illustration).
It’s also a good idea to review the safety-
related information regarding the engine
electrical systems located in the “Safety first!”
section at the front of this manual, before
beginning any operation included in this Chapter.
Battery disconnection
Several systems fitted to the vehicle require
battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever thebattery is to be disconnected therefore, first
note the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
(a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it
is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected!
(b) The engine management system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if it
is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this (see
Chapter 6). Whenever the battery is
disconnected, the information relating to idle
speed control and other operating values will
have to be re-programmed into the unit’s
memory. The ECU does this by itself, but
until then, there may be surging, hesitation,
erratic idle and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.
(c) If the battery is disconnected while the
alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when
the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).
(d) If a trip computer is in use, any
information stored in memory will be lost.
(e) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of thisprocedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this manual. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.
Devices known as “memory-savers” (or
“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.
Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s systems are still
operational when the main battery is
disconnected. If a “memory-saver” is used,
ensure that the circuit concerned is
actually “dead” before carrying out any
work on it!
Note:See also the relevant Sections of
Chapter 1.
1Disconnect the battery leads, negative
(earth) lead first - see Section 1.
2Remove the battery hold-down clamp (see
illustrations).
3Lift out the battery. Be careful - it’s heavy.
4While the battery is out, inspect the tray for
corrosion (see Chapter 1).
2 Battery- removal and refitting
1 General information,
precautions and battery
disconnection
5•2 Engine electrical systems
1.2 Always disconnect battery - negative
(earth) lead first - to prevent the possibility
of short-circuits2.2A Unscrew hold-down nuts (one of two
arrowed) . . .2.2B . . . and withdraw hold-down clamp
to release battery
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at the top, two at the bottom). Withdraw the
alternator from the engine, and manoeuvre it
out through the wheel arch (see illustration).
Do not drop it, it is fragile.
7If you are renewing the alternator, take the
old one with you when purchasing a
replacement unit. Make sure that the new or
rebuilt unit is identical to the old alternator.
Look at the terminals - they should be the
same in number, size and location as the
terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at
the identification markings - they will be
stamped in the housing, or printed on a tag or
plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure that
these numbers are the same on both
alternators.
8Many new/rebuilt alternators do not have a
pulley installed, so you may have to switch the
pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt one.
When buying an alternator, ask about the
installation of pulleys - some auto-electrical
specialists will perform this service free of
charge.
9Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring where necessary to the
relevant Chapters of this manual. Tighten all
fasteners to the specified torque wrench
settings.
10Check the charging voltage to verify
proper operation of the alternator (see Sec-
tion 11).
Note:This procedure assumes that
replacement parts of the correct type have
been obtained. At the time of writing, no
individual alternator components were
available as separate replacement Ford parts.
An auto electrical specialist should be able to
supply parts such as brushes.
The following procedure is for the Bosch
unit fitted to the project vehicle - details may
vary for other alternator types.
1Remove the alternator from the vehicle (see
Section 12) and place it on a clean
workbench.
2Remove the three screws, and withdraw the
plastic end cover (see illustration).3Remove the two voltage regulator/brush
holder mounting screws.
4Remove the regulator/brush holder from the
end frame (see illustration). If you are
renewing the assembly, proceed to para-
graph 8, install the new unit, reassemble the
alternator, and refit it to the engine (see
Section 12). If you are going to check the
brushes, proceed to the next paragraph.
5Measure the exposed length of each brush,
and compare it to the minimum length listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. If the length of
either brush is less than the specified
minimum, renew the assembly.
6Make sure that each brush moves smoothly
in the brush holder.
7Check that the slip rings - the ring of
copper on which each brush bears - are
clean. Wipe them with a solvent-moistened
cloth; if either appears scored or blackened,
take the alternator to a repair specialist for
advice.
8Refit the voltage regulator/brush holder,
ensuring that the brushes bear correctly on
the slip rings, and that they compress into
their holders. Tighten the screws securely.
9Install the rear cover, and tighten the
screws securely.
10Refit the alternator (see Section 12).
General information
The sole function of the starting system is
to turn over the engine quickly enough to
allow it to start.
The starting system consists of the battery,
the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the
wires connecting them. The solenoid is
mounted directly on the starter motor.
The solenoid/starter motor assembly is
installed on the rear upper part of the engine,
next to the transmission bellhousing.
When the ignition key is turned to position
“III”, the starter solenoid is actuated through
the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid
then connects the battery to the starter. The
battery supplies the electrical energy to thestarter motor, which does the actual work of
cranking the engine.
The starter motor on a vehicle equipped
with automatic transmission can be operated
only when the selector lever is in Park or
Neutral (“P” or “N”).
If the alarm system is armed or activated,
the starter motor cannot be operated. The
same applies with the engine immobiliser
system (where fitted).
Precautions
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the starting system:
(a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor
can overheat it, and cause serious
damage. Never operate the starter motor
for more than 15 seconds at a time
without pausing to allow it to cool for at
least two minutes. Excessive starter
operation will also risk unburned fuel
collecting in the catalytic converter’s
element, causing it to overheat when the
engine does start (see Chapter 6).
(b) The starter is connected directly to the
battery, and could arc or cause a fire if
mishandled, overloaded or shorted-out.
(c) Always detach the lead from the negative
terminal of the battery before working on
the starting system (see Section 1).
Note:Before diagnosing starter problems,
make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and ensure that the alarm/engine immobiliser
system is not activated.
1If the starter motor does not turn at all when
the switch is operated, make sure that, on
automatic transmission models, the selector
lever is in Park or Neutral (“P” or “N”).
2Make sure that the battery is fully-charged,
and that all leads, both at the battery and
starter solenoid terminals, are clean and
secure.
3If the starter motor spins but the engine is
not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when
applicable) the reduction gears in the starter
motor may be slipping, in which case the
15 Starting system - testing
14 Starting system - general
information and precautions
13 Alternator brushes and
voltage regulator - renewal
5•6 Engine electrical systems
12.6 Alternator must be withdrawn
through right-hand front wheel arch13.2 Renewing voltage regulator/brush
holder - Bosch alternator. Remove three
screws and withdraw end cover . . .13.4 . . . then remove regulator/brush
holder assembly (secured by two screws)
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constantly monitors the oxygen content of the
exhaust gas. If the percentage of oxygen in
the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical
signal is sent to the ECU. The ECU processes
this information, and then sends a command
to the fuel injection system, telling it to change
the air/fuel mixture; the end result is an air/fuel
mixture ratio which is constantly maintained
at a predetermined ratio, regardless of driving
conditions. This happens in a fraction of a
second, and goes on almost all the time while
the engine is running - the exceptions are that
the ECU cuts out the system and runs the
engine on values pre-programmed
(“mapped”) into its memory both while the
oxygen sensor is reaching its normal
operating temperature after the engine has
been started from cold, and when the throttle
is fully open for full acceleration.
In the event of a sensor malfunction, a
back-up circuit will take over, to provide
driveability until the problem is identified and
fixed.
Precautions
(a) Always disconnect the power by
uncoupling the battery terminals - see
Section 1 of Chapter 5 - before removing
any of the electronic control system’s
electrical connectors.
(b) When installing a battery, be particularly
careful to avoid reversing the positive and
negative battery leads.
(c) Do not subject any components of the
system (especially the ECU) to severe
impact during removal or installation.
(d) Do not be careless during fault diagnosis.
Even slight terminal contact can invalidate
a testing procedure, and damage one of
the numerous transistor circuits.
(e) Never attempt to work on the ECU, to test
it (with any kind of test equipment), or to
open its cover.
(f) If you are inspecting electronic control
system components during rainy weather,
make sure that water does not enter any
part. When washing the engine
compartment, do not spray these parts or
their electrical connectors with water.
General
The various components of the fuel, ignition
and emissions control systems (not forgetting
the same ECU’s control of sub-systems such
as the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning
and automatic transmission, where
appropriate) are so closely interlinked that
diagnosis of a fault in any one component is
virtually impossible using traditional methods.
Working on simpler systems in the past, the
experienced mechanic may well have been
able to use personal skill and knowledge
immediately to pinpoint the cause of a fault, or
quickly to isolate the fault, by elimination;however, with an engine management system
integrated to this degree, this is not likely to
be possible in most instances, because of the
number of symptoms that could arise from
even a minor fault.
So that the causes of faults can be quickly
and accurately traced and rectified, the ECU
is provided with a built-in self-diagnosis
facility, which detects malfunctions in the
system’s components. When a fault occurs,
three things happen: the ECU identifies the
fault, stores a corresponding code in its
memory, and (in most cases) runs the system
using back-up values pre-programmed
(“mapped”) into its memory; some form of
driveability is thus maintained, to enable the
vehicle to be driven to a garage for attention.
Any faults that may have occurred are
indicated in the form of three-digit codes
when the system is connected (via the built-in
diagnosis or self-test connectors, as
appropriate) to special diagnostic equipment -
this points the user in the direction of the
faulty circuit, so that further tests can pinpoint
the exact location of the fault.
Given below is the procedure that would be
followed by a Ford technician to trace a fault
from scratch. Should your vehicle’s engine
management system develop a fault, read
through the procedure and decide how much
you can attempt, depending on your skill and
experience and the equipment available to
you, or whether it would be simpler to have
the vehicle attended to by your local Ford
dealer. If you are concerned about the
apparent complexity of the system, however,
remember the comments made in the fourth
paragraph of Section 1 of this Chapter; the
preliminary checks require nothing but care,
patience and a few minor items of equipment,
and may well eliminate the majority of faults.
(a) Preliminary checks
(b) Fault code read-out *
(c) Check ignition timing and base idle
speed. Recheck fault codes to establish
whether fault has been cured or not *
(d) Carry out basic check of ignition system
components. Recheck fault codes to
establish whether fault has been cured or
not *
(e) Carry out basic check of fuel system
components. Recheck fault codes to
establish whether fault has been cured or
not *
(f) If fault is still not located, carry out system
test *
Note:Operations marked with an asterisk
require special test equipment.
Preliminary checks
Note:When carrying out these checks to
trace a fault, remember that if the fault has
appeared only a short time after any part of
the vehicle has been serviced or overhauled,
the first place to check is where that work was
carried out, however unrelated it may appear,
to ensure that no carelessly-refitted
components are causing the problem.If you are tracing the cause of a “partial”
engine fault, such as lack of performance, in
addition to the checks outlined below, check
the compression pressures (see Part A of
Chapter 2) and bear in mind the possibility
that one of the hydraulic tappets might be
faulty, producing an incorrect valve clearance.
Check also that the fuel filter has been
renewed at the recommended intervals.
If the system appears completely dead,
remember the possibility that the
alarm/inhibitor system may be responsible.
1The first check for anyone without special
test equipment is to switch on the ignition,
and to listen for the fuel pump (the sound of
an electric motor running, audible from
beneath the rear seats); assuming there is
sufficient fuel in the tank, the pump should
start and run for approximately one or two
seconds, then stop, each time the ignition is
switched on. If the pump runs continuously all
the time the ignition is switched on, the
electronic control system is running in the
back-up (or “limp-home”) mode referred to by
Ford as “Limited Operation Strategy” (LOS).
This almost certainly indicates a fault in the
ECU itself, and the vehicle should therefore be
taken to a Ford dealer for a full test of the
complete system using the correct diagnostic
equipment; do not waste time trying to test
the system without such facilities.
2If the fuel pump is working correctly (or not
at all), a considerable amount of fault
diagnosis is still possible without special test
equipment. Start the checking procedure as
follows.
3Open the bonnet and check the condition
of the battery connections - remake the
connections or renew the leads if a fault is
found (Chapter 5). Use the same techniques
to ensure that all earth points in the engine
compartment provide good electrical contact
through clean, metal-to-metal joints, and that
all are securely fastened. (In addition to the
earth connection at the engine lifting eye and
that from the transmission to the
body/battery, there is one earth connection
behind each headlight assembly, and one
below the power steering fluid reservoir.)
4Referring to the information given in
Chapter 12 and in the wiring diagrams at the
back of this manual, check that all fuses
protecting the circuits related to the engine
management system are in good condition.
Fit new fuses if required; while you are there,
check that all relays are securely plugged into
their sockets.
5Next work methodically around the engine
compartment, checking all visible wiring, and
the connections between sections of the
wiring loom. What you are looking for at this
stage is wiring that is obviously damaged by
chafing against sharp edges, or against
moving suspension/transmission components
and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being
trapped or crushed between carelessly-
refitted components, or melted by being
forced into contact with hot engine castings,
3 Diagnosis system -
general information
6•4 Emissions control systems
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4Unscrew and remove the lock mounting
bolts on the inner rear edge of the door, and
remove the plate. Also remove the additional
support screw (see illustrations).
5Unclip and disconnect the wiring multi-
plugs for the central locking and alarm
systems (see illustration).
6Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
door lock.
7Disconnect the inner handle illumination
light. Undo the screws and remove the inner
handle. Disconnect the operating cable from
the inner handle, as described later in this
Section (see illustrations).
8Manipulate the lock and handle assembly
as necessary, and disconnect the wiring
multi-plugs for the alarm sensor and central
locking. Withdraw the complete assembly
from inside the door (see illustrations).
9To disconnect the handle assembly from
the lock bracket, slide the rubber posts
inwards, and push out the assembly (see
illustration).
10To remove the handle itself, twist the door
handle through a quarter-turn, and pull out the
connecting rods (see illustration).
11Remove the alarm sensor and the central
locking “Set-reset” sensor (see illustration).
Rear door exterior handle
12Remove the door inner trim panel (Sec-
tion 11).
13Use a knife to cut through the adhesive
Bodywork and fittings 11•11
11
14.8B Front door lock and exterior handle
assembly removed from the vehicle14.9 Disconnecting the handle assembly
from the lock bracket14.10 Pulling out the handle connecting
rods
14.4A Unscrew the lock mounting
bolts . . .14.4B . . . and remove the plate14.4C Removing the additional support
screw
14.5 Disconnecting the central locking
and alarm system wiring multi-plugs14.7A Removing the inner handle
14.7B Disconnecting the operating cable
from the inner handle14.8A Removing the lock and exterior
handle assembly from inside the door
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14Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock (see illustration).
15Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock
mounting screws, and withdraw the lock for
access to the cables (see illustration).
16Disconnect both the inner and outer
cables from the lock bracket (see
illustration).
17Prise open the plastic clip, and remove
the central locking control rod.
18Withdraw the lock assembly.
Lock (Estate)
19Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (Chapter 5, Section 1).
20Open the tailgate. Undo the screws and
remove the inner trim.
21Using a Torx key, unscrew the lock
mounting screws, and carefully withdraw the
lock (see illustration).
22Release the door-ajar sensor from the clip
near the lock.
23Disconnect the barrel operating rod, and
remove the lock.
24If necessary, the lock striker assembly
may be removed by disconnecting the release
cable and unscrewing the mounting bolts (see
illustration).
Refitting
Lock barrel and lock - all models
25Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Testing
1The central locking module incorporates a
service-test mode, which is activated by
operating one of the lock position switches 8
times within 10 seconds. A buzzer will sound,
to indicate that the service-test mode is
operating, and to indicate that no faults have
been found in the system. If a fault has been
found, the system should be checked by a
Ford dealer or electrical specialist. The central
locking module also incorporates the alarm
system module.
Removal
Central locking/alarm module
2To remove the module, first remove the
lower right-hand facia panel (right-hand-drive
models) or the glovebox (left-hand-drive
models).
3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(Chapter 5, Section 1).
4Unscrew the mounting bolts, and remove
the module from the bracket beneath the
facia.
5Disconnect the wiring multi-plug, and
withdraw the module from inside the vehicle.6Note that a different module is used for
models without an anti-theft alarm.
Central locking set/reset switch
7This procedure is covered in Section 14,
under front door handle removal.
Central locking door-ajar switch
8This procedure is covered in Section 14,
under front door lock motor removal.
Refitting
Central locking/alarm module
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Central locking set/reset switch
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
Central locking door-ajar switch
11Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
1The windscreen and rear window on all
models are bonded in place with special
mastic, as are the rear side windows on
Estate models. Special tools are required to
cut free the old units and fit replacements;
special cleaning solutions and primer are also
required. It is therefore recommended that
this work is entrusted to a Ford dealer or
windscreen replacement specialist.
2Note that the windscreen contributes
towards the structural strength of the vehicle
as a whole, so it is important that it is fitted
correctly.
Removal
1Insert a length of strong cord (fishing line is
ideal) behind the moulding or emblem
concerned. With a sawing action, break the
25 Body side-trim mouldings
and adhesive emblems -
removal and refitting
24 Windscreen and fixed
windows - removal and refitting
23 Central locking system
components-
testing, removal and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 11•17
11
22.21 Tailgate lock - Estate models22.24 Lock striker assembly - Estate
models
22.14 Removing the door-ajar sensor from
the lock22.15 Removing a lock mounting screw22.16 Disconnecting the cables from the
lock
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8Unscrew the mounting bolt securing the
seat belt stalk, and withdraw the stalk. Also
unscrew the mounting bolt from the lower
anchorage, where applicable (see
illustration).
Rear centre seat belt
9Unscrew the mounting bolts securing the
seat belt and stalks to the floor. Note that the
stalks are handed, and are marked Left or
Right.
Refitting
10Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Tighten the mounting nuts and
bolts to the specified torque.
Removal
Sun visor
1Disconnect the wiring for the vanity mirror
light, where fitted.
2Unscrew the mounting screws and remove
the visor.
3Prise up the cover, unscrew the inner
bracket mounting screws, and remove the
bracket.
Passenger grab handle
4Prise up the covers, then unscrew the
mounting screws and remove the grab
handle.
“A” pillar trim
5Pull away the door weatherstrip in the area
of the trim.
6Release the alarm and aerial wiring from the
upper and middle clips.
7Carefully press the trim away from the
upper and middle clips, and pull the trim
upwards. Recover the lower sealing strip.
8Remove the upper and middle clips from
the pillar.
“B” pillar and cowl side trim
9Pull away the door weatherstrip in the area
of the trim.
10Undo the screws, release the fasteners
and remove the lower trim (see illustrations).
11Carefully separate the lower trim from the
upper trim, using a screwdriver if necessary
(see illustration).
12Unscrew the seat belt mounting bolt from
under the front seat, remove the remaining
trim from the “B” pillar, and feed the belt
through the trim.
“C” pillar trim (Saloon and Hatchback)
13Pull away the door weatherstrip in the
area of the trim.
14Fold the rear seat cushion forwards.
15Pull up the rear seat bolster, and release
29 Interior trim panels-
removal and refitting
11•20 Bodywork and fittings
28.6B Removing the plastic cover from the
rear seat lock28.7A Rear seat belt shackle mounting
bolt28.7B Rear seat belt reel mounting bolt
29.10B Releasing the fasteners from the
cowl side trim29.11 Separating the “B” pillar lower and
upper trim
28.8 Rear seat belt lower anchorage29.10A Removing a middle screw from the
lower trim
29.15A Pull up the rear seat bolster . . .
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Chapter 12 Body electrical system
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Air bag unit (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Anti-theft alarm system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Auxiliary warning system - general information and
component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Battery - check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 5
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Compact disc player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cruise control system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Electrical fault finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses, relays and timer module - testing and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight beam alignment - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 8
Headlight levelling motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Radio/cassette player - coding, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Radio/cassette player power amplifier - removal and refitting . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Speedometer drive cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Stop-light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17
TCS inhibition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 9
Trip computer module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen/tailgate washer system and wiper blade
check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Fuses (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse No Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
1 80 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Power supply to main fusebox
2 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fans
3 60 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel engine glow plugs and/or ABS braking system
4 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition system, or ignition and daytime running lights
5 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (left-hand side)
6 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated windscreen (right-hand side)
7 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS braking system
8 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning compressor/heated seats or air conditioning
compressor/daytime running lights
9 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU (petrol), Cold start solenoid (Diesel)
10 20 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition switch
11 3 Violet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU memory
12 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horn and hazard flasher warning system
13 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor
14 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
15 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (right-hand side)
16 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlight (left-hand side)
17 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (right-hand side)
18 10 Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlight (left-hand side)
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,suitable
for competent DIY
mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
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Fuses (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Note:Fuse ratings and circuits are liable to change from year to year. Consult the handbook supplied with the vehicle, or consult a Ford dealer,
for specific information.
Fuse Rating Colour Circuit(s) protected
19 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated door mirrors
20 10 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front/rear wiper motor (circuit breaker)
21 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front electric windows (only)
21 40 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear electric windows
22 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABS module
23 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Reversing lights
24 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stop-lights
25 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system/double-locking/anti-theft alarm
26 20 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights
27 15 Light blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cigar lighter
28 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system
29 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
30 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and auxiliary warning system
31 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Instrument panel illumination
32 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radio
33 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (left-hand side)
34 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior lighting and digital clock
35 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front and rear sidelights (right-hand side)
36 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air bag
37 30 Light green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
38 7.5 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Adaptive damping
Relays (auxiliary fusebox in engine compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R1 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daytime running lights (left-hand-drive, but not all countries) or dim-
dip lights (UK)
R2 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (high speed)
R3 Blue (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning cut-out
R3 Brown (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Air conditioning in conjunction with Diesel engine
R4 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen heater time delay
R5 Dark green (petrol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R5 Black (Diesel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator electric cooling fan (low speed)
R6 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Starter solenoid
R7 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horns
R8 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fuel pump
R9 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dipped beam headlights
R10 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Main beam headlights
R11 Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ECU power supply (petrol), cold start (Diesel)
Relays (main fusebox in passenger compartment)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected
R12 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interior, courtesy and footwell lights
R13 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window
R14 Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heater blower
R15 Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Windscreen wiper motor
R16 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ignition
Auxiliary relays (not in the fuseboxes)
Relay Colour Circuit(s) protected Location
R17 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diesel glow plug Battery tray
R18 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . “One-touch down” Driver’s door
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . driver’s window relay
R19 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Speed control cut-off Central fuse box bracket the
below instrument panel
R20 Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Headlight washer system Bulb module bracket
R21 Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear screen wiper interval Bulb module bracket
R22 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foglights (left-hand-drive only) Interface module bracket
R23 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Direction indicators Steering column
R24 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (left-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R25 White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-theft alarm (right-hand side) Door lock module bracket
R26 Black . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heated seats Door lock module bracket
12•2 Body electrical system
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